Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #5292
HOMEBREW Digest #5292 Tue 05 February 2008
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
***************************************************************
THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
Your Business Name Here
Visit http://hbd.org "Sponsor the HBD" to find out how!
Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********
DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:
HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309
or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPOSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a bsuiness expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************
Contents:
RE: Marzen (and soft water) ("Brian Lundeen")
RE: My pilsner pooped out ("William C. Tobler")
Pils pooped out (leavitdg)
RE: My pilsner pooped out ("David Houseman")
RE: Pilsner poop-out ("Rich Lynch")
Overnight Mash (Leo Vitt)
Re: My pilsner pooped out (Robert Tower)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org
If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!
To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
"subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
for the automation - that's your job.
HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.
LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.
The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.
More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.
JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 00:07:26 -0600
From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at mts.net>
Subject: RE: Marzen (and soft water)
> Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 06:59:30 -0500
> From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
> Subject: Marzen (and soft water)
>
> Greg Noonan, in Brewing Lager Beer, suggests hard water when
> brewing a Vienna Lager. What do you think the consequences
> would be, in terms of the final flavor, if you used softer/
> Pilsen, rather than harder water?
>
Hi Darrell,
I would like to put this whole water treatment thing into perspective, as I
see it, IMHO, so to speak. If I load up BreWater, and run the Wizard to
convert Pilsen water to Vienna water, I come up with roughly two teaspoons
of Chalk and two teaspoons of Epsom Salts needed for the amount of water
used for a 5 gallon batch. Let's break this down even further. In a glass of
water, this amounts to about 1/10th of a gram of Epsom Salts, a tad less for
the chalk. Do you think that is a significant amount?
Of course, you should probably check NEW Brewing Lager Beer to make sure he
still believes this to be true. I mean, the 10 years from 1986 to 1996
brought a lot of changes to the world of lager brewing. I'm surprised 2006
didn't see the release of Really, Really New Lager Brewing. Seriously, what
do you need to say about lager brewing that can't be summed up in 5 words?
Pitch big, ferment cold, duh! Nothing Noonan has written has impressed me as
being anything more than self-serving gobble-de-gook.
Now, if this doesn't liven up the old HBD with a torrent of counter-points,
I don't know what will. ;-)
Cheers
Bwian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 05:55:15 -0600
From: "William C. Tobler" <wctobler at comcast.net>
Subject: RE: My pilsner pooped out
Rich said he had a problem with his Pils,
> I wondering how I can rescue my first attempt at making a
pilsner. I
> used WY2007 and after a 3 week or so fermentation, I bottled the 5
> gallon batch with 3/4 cup of corn sugar. After 2 weeks at 40F
the beer
> has achieved literally *no* carbonation, and has a sweet corn
> (diacetyl or just the bottling sugar?) taste, which isn't horrible
Rich, I think your problem is trying to carbonate the beer at 40
degrees F instead of at room temp. Even though this is a lager, the
carbonation needs to be done at room temperature. The yeast will
just not work at 40 degrees. Put your bottles at room temp in a
closet somewhere for a few weeks, and give them a good shake one or
two times in the first week. You should be ok.
As far as the corn taste, it sounds like it may be DMS, which has a
corn like flavor. Diacetyl has more of a buttery taste. Check out
my post from yesterday on a great link on diacetyl. The DMS can come
from the malt (German pilsner malt), yeast or bad boiling practice.
(Boiling with the lid on, or even covering the wort with a lid post
boil while chilling) I would just give it some time and see what
happens.
Bill Tobler
Lake Jackson, TX
(1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian
Brewing Great Beer in South Texas
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 07:16:40 -0500
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Pils pooped out
"After 2 weeks at 40F...."
The Wyeast site says : Temperature Range: 48-56F, 9-13C
I think that you should raise the temp, perhaps to 60F, see if they carbonate,
and if not, then add the yeast.
Let's see what others suggest.
Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 07:35:31 -0500
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net>
Subject: RE: My pilsner pooped out
Rich,
Let the bottled lager warm to room temperature for several weeks. I've
found that giving the bottles some agitation to get any settled yeast back
into solution helps as well, so I've inverted the bottles occasionally
during the period of carbonation. If this doesn't work you can carefully
open each bottle and put in a few grains of dried yeast. But then ferment
at room temperature, not 45F.
David Houseman
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 08:50:12 -0500
From: "Rich Lynch" <rlny7575 at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Pilsner poop-out
Thanks to everyone for the great responses, I will follow the
collective advice given, and allow my pilsner to bottle condition at
~65F.
If *that* doesnt' fix the carbonation/diacetyl problem ( I don't think
DMS is a problem, I gave it a vigorous boil, didn't cover etc.) I will
drop a little S-23 yeast in each and hold at 65F as someone suggested.
On bringing these up to a warmer temperature: I believe I can just
pull those bottles out of the 40F fridge and let them warm to 65F (my
ambient room temp) over the course of a day with no problems right?
Or at least, I thought I read that here once..
Thanks everyone!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:08:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Leo Vitt <leo_vitt at yahoo.com>
Subject: Overnight Mash
I have read postings about overnight mashes off and on for years. I
finally did one last weekend. With some activities scheduled Satuday
afternoon, and more on Sunday, I felt this was the way to get a beer
made.
I used the oven to hold a steady temp, with the temp set to warm. The
mash went in at 154 and came out in the morning at 142 F. I did not
know what to expect for the end temp. Now, I have an idea.
It seemed easy enough. Now, I need the beer to finish to be able to
evaluate results.
Leo Vitt
Sidney, NE
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 15:06:58 -0800
From: Robert Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: My pilsner pooped out
Rich Lynch is having problems getting a pilsner he bottled to condition
and is wondering what to do. I've had this happen a few times over the
years. Rich already has the right ideas, but I think in the wrong order.
First, I would warm the bottles to room temperature 68+ F. (20+ C.) and
wait 1-2 weeks. Make sure the bottles are not sitting on the ground as
you'll be fooled into thinking it's warmer than it actually is
(sometimes asmuch of a difference as 10-15 F. when compared to waist
height air temperature). Open a bottle after a week to see if you're
getting *any* carbonation. If not, don't worry, give it another week. If
after two weeks you've got nothing then you'll need to dose each bottle
with some dry lager yeast. S-23 is a good choice, but still keep the
bottles at the warm temperature. S-23 becomes *very* sluggish when the
temperature drops below 53 F. (12 C.). In fact, I always bottle
condition my lagers at room temperature. The little bit of fermentation
(usually about 3 points of specific gravity) at room temperature isn't
going to contribute any significant esters to skew a pilsner's flavor
profile. Also, no need to rehydrate the yeast, just drop a little bit in
each bottle. Cut the top off the yeast sachet and scoop some out with
the smallest teaspoon you can find (an 1/8 tsp works good) and with the
spoon over the lip of the bottle tap the spoonwith your index finger to
knock some of the dry yeast into the bottle. You'll probably end up with
yeast leftover. It kills me to waste yeast (oranything for that matter)
so I try to evenly distribute they whole sachet over the number of
bottles I have. This is overkill to a great degree when you consider
that if there is no viable yeast in your beer you'd onlyneed about 2
grams to condition 5 gallons (20 liters) of beer (a sachet of S-23 is
11.5 grams). But as a wise man once said "Overkill: it's the only way to
live!"
Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5292, 02/05/08
*************************************
-------
