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HOMEBREW Digest #5257
HOMEBREW Digest #5257 Thu 15 November 2007
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
fast starts ("Jason Bryant")
Re: ball valve sanitization (Kai Dambergs)
RE: ball valves ("Mike Sharp")
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Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:49:20 -0500
From: "Jason Bryant" <bryantj2 at asme.org>
Subject: fast starts
I'm going from memory here, but I seem to have gotten faster starts
before I started aerating with O2. When I started brewing last year I
did the old shake method after pitching to aerate the wort. I'll have
to check my notes, but I think I started to see bubbling at around 8
hours. Since then I've aerated inline with air or used O2 with a
stone. When I pitch my yeast I just throw it in the bucket and put
the lid on. I don't see bubbling for at least 12-18 hours now. I've
always used Whitelabs vials without starters. Does anyone else think
that shaking up the yeast and wort speeds up the process? I'll try
the shake method the next time I brew and see what happens.
Jason
Norfolk, VA
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Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 01:14:01 +0900
From: Kai Dambergs <goodbyesoberday at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: ball valve sanitization
I use three-piece ball valves anywhere where I think contamination is
an issue (ie from the kettle onwards). They can be taken completely
apart and give them a thorough clean whenever necessary. I've
attached a link to a photo of my kettle's valve, bulkhead fitting and
pickup completely disassembled for illustration.
A 3-piece valve costs me anywhere from $15-$50AUD.
http://bb.mafmods.com/hotquickandthick/cleaning/tap.jpg
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:33:37 -0200
From: "Alexandre Carminati" <afcarminati at gmail.com>
Subject: ball valve sanitization
Some days ago I have posted an email regarding about "sour bottled
beer". I had so many hints on what to investigate and I came to an
obnoxious cleaning problem:
How to clean efficiently metalic (non SS) ball valves? They seem to be
clean, but when you open and close them, some kind of dirtness
(contamined yeast I supose) comes from inside the teflon around the
ball.
My cleaning process includes a hot 2% NaOH solution bath and a spray
of peracetic acid afterwards.
I am wondering to replace these metal valves for plastic ones and
discard them immediatelly after use. Does anyone knows a cheapest way
to solve this issue?
Cheers
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Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 07:04:44 -0800
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: ball valves
Alex asks about ball valve sanitization
"I am wondering to replace these metal valves for plastic ones and discard
them immediatelly after use. Does anyone knows a cheapest way to solve this
issue?"
I've always disliked ball valves in fermenters because of this. In the
"real" beer and wine industry, they use sanitary butterfly valves. Yes,
they're expensive to buy initially, but they're cleanable. You only need
one, though, unless you have valves for racking. You can get them for less
than a hundred bucks, but it's still a pile of money. Mounting one is
tricky, unless you have a stainless conical and a welder who can tig weld a
ferrule in the bottom.
Threaded fittings have the same issue, though, so IMO it would be a waste of
money to buy a nice sanitary ball valve, and then hook it up to a threaded
fitting on the fermenter.
Some ball valves might be easy enough to dismantle each time for cleaning.
You can also use a clear beverage hose, doubled up and clamped, as a valve,
if you don't have to worry about pressure.
Regards,
Mike Sharp
Kent, WA
[1891.3, 294deg] AR
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5257, 11/15/07
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