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HOMEBREW Digest #5179
HOMEBREW Digest #5179 Fri 27 April 2007
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: 1/2 barrels to cornies ("Craig S. Cottingham")
re: Sinamar (3rbecks)
Re: Sinamar (Mike Dixon)
RE: 1/2 Barrels to Cornies ("A.J deLange")
Re: Hop Damage in Ohio!! ("Kevin Gray")
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 23:30:09 -0500
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1/2 barrels to cornies
On Apr 24, 2007, at 06:52, "Jeff Dieterle" <djdieterle at
localnet.com> wrote:
> Wondering if I would have problems filling 3 cornies from a keg. My
> kegerator is a chest-freezer-3-tap-tower and I like to use one of
> the taps
> to appease the bmc crowd. I checked on 1/6 barrels, but they aren't
> available in the mass consumption beers, the only Bud available was
> Mich
> Ultra.
Wow -- you're willing to sacrifice 33% of your tap capacity to
industrial American lagers, *and* go to the effort of transferring it
from 1/2 bbl kegs to Cornies?
Me, I'd be finding new friends. :-)
- --
Craig S. Cottingham
BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent
Rennerian)
craig.cottingham at gmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 00:58:21 -0500
From: <3rbecks at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: re: Sinamar
I have used Sinamar on several occasions and found that it gives me
primarily color with very little flavor. I believe that it was originally
designed to add in the production of schwartzbier where you need the deep
color without the heavy roasted overtones. In terms of color contribution, I
have found that the published rates of 5 ml. to 6 ml. in 5 gal. of beer will
darken the beer 1 SRM or 1deg. L and the entire bottle (4 oz.) will darken 5
gal. of beer by 16 SRM or 16 deg. L to be fairly accurate.
Rob Beck
Kansas City
Listening to someone who brews his own beer is like listening to a religious
fanatic talk about the day he saw the light.
- Ross Murray, Montreal Gazette, 1991
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 07:03:41 -0400
From: Mike Dixon <mpdixon at ipass.net>
Subject: Re: Sinamar
Darrell wrote
> I recently read about Sinamar, from Crosby. Have others used this stuff for
> color? And, how much flavor gets departed?
In my limited experience, little flavor is imparted to the beer.
Probably because I used so little for a batch. I used Sinamar to darken
beers that might have came out a little too light for the style
guidelines prior to competition (shhh). You might get more flavor if you
were trying to add it to take a pale grist beer to that of a dark beer.
Cheers,
Mike Dixon
Wake Forest, NC
www.ipass.net/mpdixon
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 12:09:13 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: RE: 1/2 Barrels to Cornies
Yes, you can fill from half barrels to Cornies and lots of people do
this. The trick is to have a "filling device" which consists of a
pressure gauge on one leg of a tee with a needle valve on another and a
hose with gas connector for whatever your target container is on the
third. It is very handy to have a shutoff valve (Micromatic) on the keg
coupler beer line. You need to do three things to the target vessel: 1)
get it sterile 2) get the air out 3) fill it with CO2 at a pressure
somewhat above the pressure in the source. I do 1 and 2 with steam and
then quickly switch the stem inlet to CO2 so the steam is replaced by
CO2 as it condenses. The extra CO2 pressure is used to blow the
condensate out. Other people use a sanitizer followed by complete
filling with sterile water which both rinses out the sanitizer and
displaces the air. Others just drain and rinse the santizer and then
attempt to expell the air by repeated pressurizations to high pressure.
This isn't as effective as steam or a complete water fill (and used more
CO2) but is OK if the beer is to be consumed quickly.
Once you have a keg full of CO2 at say 15 psig connect the "device" and
beer line from the source keg. If the keg coupler has a shutoff valve,
make sure it is shut off and engage the coupler handle. If there is no
valve do not engage the coupler handle quite yet. First open the needle
valve on the receiving keg and bleed off pressure to slightly below the
pressure in the source keg (use the pressure relief valve on the keg if
the needle valve is taking to long) and then crack the beer shutoff
valve or gradually lowering the coupler handle. Monitor the the beer
line carefully. What you do not want is gas flowing back from the target
keg to the source keg disturbing the sediment in the source keg (this
isn't really important for commericial beer which has been
filtered/centrifuged but is for homebrew). Backflow can occur because
the Bourdon tube pressure gauges we use are not exactly precision
devices and even though the device gauge may read a little below the
source gauge the source pressure may actually be lower. If the pressures
are right the flow will be from the source container to destination.
Fully lower the coupler handle or open the shutoff valve. Flow will be
at a rate equal to the rate at which the gas is escaping from the needle
valve. Adjust this to keep the device pressure reading close to the
source pressure as this will keep foaming in the destination to a minimum.
The best way to tell how much beer has gone into the destination is to
have the destination container on a scale. If the scale is tared with
all the lines in place the number of liters of beer in it at any time
during filling is the number of kilograms indicated divided by the
specific gravity of the beer. The number of gallons is the indicated
pounds divided by 8.3 divided by the specific gravity. A simpler way to
tell how full the target keg is is to place your hand on the side of
the keg. Where there is CO2 under the metal under your hand your body
heat will warm the metal. Where there is beer, it cannot and you can
thus quite accuratly tell where the beer level is.
All the above works with Sankey destination kegs as well as Cornies. A
second coupler with the "pea" and gas check valve removed is required.
I mention this because the 1/4 bbl (7 gal) slender form Sankey kegs are
pretty handy and comparably priced to Cornies.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 21:00:30 -0400
From: "Kevin Gray" <kevin.gray at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hop Damage in Ohio!!
Well, Southwestern Ohio has finally thawed out and my hops survived,
more or less. I kept the plants wrapped for about a week, then took
the covering off as soon as the freeze warning went away.
The Fuggles plant, which struggled anyway, didn't fare all that well,
so I cut it back and it sprouted again. I actually have 2 Fuggles
bines, and the second one is just now above ground. The first one is
nearly 3 feet tall again.
And the Centennials did well--they survived and are thriving, minus a
little leaf damage. The largest one is nearly 5 feet tall now.
Thanks to Bob, Steve, Doug and others for answering my query.
Kevin J. Gray
Dayton, OH 45419
http://kevbrews.blogspot.com
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5179, 04/27/07
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