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HOMEBREW Digest #5180
HOMEBREW Digest #5180 Sun 29 April 2007
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
lagering: Wyeast 2124 ("Peter A. Ensminger")
Re: 1/2 barrels to cornies ("Jeff Dieterle")
Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124 ("A.J deLange")
Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124 ("Peter A. Ensminger")
Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124 ("A.J deLange")
Bouguer-Lambert-Beer Law and Beer (J A S Viggiano)
YOUR INTEREST!!! (CAPITAL INVESTMENT) ("Zhang Yi")
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Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 00:56:42 -0400
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: lagering: Wyeast 2124
About 6 weeks ago, I made a bock and a doppelbock with Wyeast 2124. They
have been in carboys at ~45-50 deg F for the past 4 weeks. Both smell a
bit "sulfitic" (or is it "cooked vegetable"?) to me (see:
http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue5.6/flavorwheel.html).
Can I assume that this will subside over time? Any suggestions to
promote/encourage dissipation?
TIA.
Cheers!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9]
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 06:11:33 -0500
From: "Jeff Dieterle" <djdieterle at localnet.com>
Subject: Re: 1/2 barrels to cornies
Settle Down Tiger, the only time I'll do this is when I have a party,
Regarding the effort, I won't do it very often considering I'll get 3
cornies/keg. :-)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 23:30:09 -0500
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1/2 barrels to cornies
On Apr 24, 2007, at 06:52, "Jeff Dieterle" <djdieterle at
localnet.com> wrote:
> Wondering if I would have problems filling 3 cornies from a keg. My
> kegerator is a chest-freezer-3-tap-tower and I like to use one of
> the taps
> to appease the bmc crowd. I checked on 1/6 barrels, but they aren't
> available in the mass consumption beers, the only Bud available was
> Mich
> Ultra.
Wow -- you're willing to sacrifice 33% of your tap capacity to
industrial American lagers, *and* go to the effort of transferring it
from 1/2 bbl kegs to Cornies?
Me, I'd be finding new friends. :-)
- --
Craig S. Cottingham
BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent
Rennerian)
craig.cottingham at gmail.com
- ------------------------------
A.J. thanks for the great information, as I replied to Craig above this beer
probably won't get consumed quickly so I like your thoughts on sterile vs.
sanitized.
How do you steam the inside of a corny? I have one of those small steam
cleaning kits used to get the gunk off appliances if there is a way to use
that.
Thanks
Jeff
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 12:09:13 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: RE: 1/2 Barrels to Cornies
Yes, you can fill from half barrels to Cornies and lots of people do
this. The trick is to have a "filling device" which consists of a
pressure gauge on one leg of a tee with a needle valve on another and a
hose with gas connector for whatever your target container is on the
third. It is very handy to have a shutoff valve (Micromatic) on the keg
coupler beer line. You need to do three things to the target vessel: 1)
get it sterile 2) get the air out 3) fill it with CO2 at a pressure
somewhat above the pressure in the source. I do 1 and 2 with steam and
then quickly switch the stem inlet to CO2 so the steam is replaced by
CO2 as it condenses. The extra CO2 pressure is used to blow the
condensate out. Other people use a sanitizer followed by complete
filling with sterile water which both rinses out the sanitizer and
displaces the air. Others just drain and rinse the santizer and then
attempt to expell the air by repeated pressurizations to high pressure.
This isn't as effective as steam or a complete water fill (and used more
CO2) but is OK if the beer is to be consumed quickly.
Once you have a keg full of CO2 at say 15 psig connect the "device" and
beer line from the source keg. If the keg coupler has a shutoff valve,
make sure it is shut off and engage the coupler handle. If there is no
valve do not engage the coupler handle quite yet. First open the needle
valve on the receiving keg and bleed off pressure to slightly below the
pressure in the source keg (use the pressure relief valve on the keg if
the needle valve is taking to long) and then crack the beer shutoff
valve or gradually lowering the coupler handle. Monitor the the beer
line carefully. What you do not want is gas flowing back from the target
keg to the source keg disturbing the sediment in the source keg (this
isn't really important for commericial beer which has been
filtered/centrifuged but is for homebrew). Backflow can occur because
the Bourdon tube pressure gauges we use are not exactly precision
devices and even though the device gauge may read a little below the
source gauge the source pressure may actually be lower. If the pressures
are right the flow will be from the source container to destination.
Fully lower the coupler handle or open the shutoff valve. Flow will be
at a rate equal to the rate at which the gas is escaping from the needle
valve. Adjust this to keep the device pressure reading close to the
source pressure as this will keep foaming in the destination to a minimum.
The best way to tell how much beer has gone into the destination is to
have the destination container on a scale. If the scale is tared with
all the lines in place the number of liters of beer in it at any time
during filling is the number of kilograms indicated divided by the
specific gravity of the beer. The number of gallons is the indicated
pounds divided by 8.3 divided by the specific gravity. A simpler way to
tell how full the target keg is is to place your hand on the side of
the keg. Where there is CO2 under the metal under your hand your body
heat will warm the metal. Where there is beer, it cannot and you can
thus quite accuratly tell where the beer level is.
All the above works with Sankey destination kegs as well as Cornies. A
second coupler with the "pea" and gas check valve removed is required.
I mention this because the 1/4 bbl (7 gal) slender form Sankey kegs are
pretty handy and comparably priced to Cornies.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 12:39:51 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124
Many lager strains produce sulfury odors of one sort or another in
several phases of the fermentation. In some cases it can be quite strong
to the point of making your whole basement smell like a paper plant.
Often "Jungbuket" (sometimes translated as "beer stench") is strong in
sulfite (burnt matches) or sulfide (rotten eggs) and associated with
sulfury flavors. Fortunately, Jungbuket passes though many, if not most,
lagers retain a sulfur note which is part of the profile. This is more
noticeable in lighter beers (Pilsners) than bocks. So patience is the
word. If the sulfury smells are caused by an infection that's a
different matter but if it's just the yeast it will pass.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 16:08:00 -0400
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124
Thanks for the tip!
I've promised some bock and doppelbock for friends who will be visiting
in a few weeks. Basically, I can lager in a carboy in my basement
(~50-55 deg F) or in a corny keg in my beer fridge (~40 deg F). Which
method will get me drinkable beer fastest?
Cheers!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9]
A.J deLange wrote:
> Many lager strains produce sulfury odors of one sort or another in
> several phases of the fermentation. In some cases it can be quite strong
> to the point of making your whole basement smell like a paper plant.
> Often "Jungbuket" (sometimes translated as "beer stench") is strong in
> sulfite (burnt matches) or sulfide (rotten eggs) and associated with
> sulfury flavors. Fortunately, Jungbuket passes though many, if not most,
> lagers retain a sulfur note which is part of the profile. This is more
> noticeable in lighter beers (Pilsners) than bocks. So patience is the
> word. If the sulfury smells are caused by an infection that's a
> different matter but if it's just the yeast it will pass.
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 20:46:14 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Re: lagering: Wyeast 2124
The certain cure for Jungbuket is, as the medics say, tincture of time
but it would seem reasonable that if one put the beer in a corny keg and
let it come to equilibrium at normal draught pressure (ca 14 psig) then
bled off the pressure and kept doing so as the beer went flat then
repeated this process (pressurize/bleed) a couple of times the CO2 might
scrub out much of the Jungbuket. I've never really tried this but it
does seem reasonable.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 19:42:15 -0400
From: J A S Viggiano <jasv at acolyte-color.com>
Subject: Bouguer-Lambert-Beer Law and Beer
Seems like it was about a year ago I mentioned some experiments I had
been conducting regarding the applicability of the Bouguer-Lambert-Beer
law to beer. My preliminary report is currently available online at:
http://www.cis.rit.edu/fairchild/PDFs/ViggianoBeer.pdf
Basically, I conclude that there are dark beers (very dark, in fact)
which do indeed obey the Bouguer-Lambert-Beer law.
==John
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 22:22:05 -0400
From: "Zhang Yi" <icbc at consolemodstuff.com>
Subject: YOUR INTEREST!!! (CAPITAL INVESTMENT)
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Director & Deputy General Manager
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5180, 04/29/07
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