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HOMEBREW Digest #5125
HOMEBREW Digest #5125 Thu 11 January 2007
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
Can This Beer be Saved? ("Peter Garofalo")
(White, CPT, Paul\)" <syrops@mepcom.army.mil>
Tetra extract ("Peed, John")
Wheat efficiency... clarification. (Michael Eyre)
Controlling ferment overflow (Rich Lynch) (Richard Lynch)
low efficiency from malted wheat ("Janie Curry/ Todd Weaver")
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Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 15:23:06 -0500
From: "Peter Garofalo" <pgarofa1 at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Can This Beer be Saved?
Well, it happens to everyone at some point....
My toasted oatmeal stout that's been kegged for a month or more reeks of
rancid butter. I could try to blame someone else, but I'd rather see if this
beer can be rescued.
To backtrack a bit, I believe the source of the overwhelming diacetyl lies
in a cool fermentation using Safale S-56 dry yeast. This has been a
consistent winner, but I have heard (too late) that it leaves residual
diacetyl if fermented too cool. This was fermented in my brew partner's
basement, probably in the low 60's F (primary and secondary).
After thinking a bit about how diacetyl is formed and absorbed, I concluded
that one possibility for saving this beer would be to kraeusen it. I had
some room in the keg, so I made a starter from another dry yeast (Munton's;
it's what was on hand) using some previously canned wort. It hit kraeusen a
short while ago, and I pitched it into the keg. I'll keep it warm for a week
or so and see how it goes.
Theoretically, kraeusening should reduce the diacetyl to a flavorless
compound, leaving a drinkable stout. I added far less than the usually
specified 10% of actively fermenting wort, but I am shooting for diacetyl
reduction, not carbonation. How much active yeast does it take to
effectively reduce diacetyl? I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.
I don't know whether this will work, but it took very little effort. It
would be very cool if it did save the beer. I have not seen anything posted
about this being tried before, though it surely has been. At any rate, I
will post my results to this list in a couple of weeks.
Cheers,
Pete Garofalo
Syracuse, NY (snowy, at last)
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 06:17:00 -0600
From: "Syracuse- OPS \(White, CPT, Paul\)" <syrops at mepcom.army.mil>
Subject:
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 22:33:36 -0500
From: "Bryan L" <rheinheitsgebot at gmail.com>
Subject: Bass keg valve - removal
____________
Does anyone know how to safely remove the valve from a Bass/Tennets
keg (Grundy G...maybe) ? I just took possesion of a retired keg to
play with. The problem is that I don't know how to remove the valve.
The keg is from Bass, and has that rounded triangle valve that of
course I don't have a coupler for. I searched the Hbd and could only
come up with a few comments from Tom Davidson (hbd #5123) regarding
the same problem, but the only resolution was to convert to a
kettle - not my plan, yet. Thanks everyone and cheers!
Just my two cents but Midwest has a bass tap for about 65
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:00:27 -0800
From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com>
Subject: Tetra extract
Mike asks where to find Tetra. As far as I can tell, it's only
available to commercial brewers. You might ask a hop manufacturer for a
sample.
John Peed
Oak Ridge, TN
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:13:44 -0800
From: Michael Eyre <meyre at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Wheat efficiency... clarification.
Hey all...
I didn't mention in my original post, but I batch sparge, so I don't
think channeling is going to be an issue for me. However, the crush
aspect never crossed my mind. Thinking about it now, the what malts we
have do appear a bit smaller, perhaps than the barley malts... I'll look
into that closer next time and maybe make an adjustment for the wheat,
running it through separately. I'll report back on whether or not that
cures the problem or not. Thanks to all for the info!
Mike
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 08:01:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Richard Lynch <rlny7575 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Controlling ferment overflow (Rich Lynch)
Hello everyone,
Just want to introduce myself, my name is Rich and
I've been brewing for about a year, I mostly do 5
gallon partial mashes in my apt kitchen. Also I'd
just like to say what an amazing resource I think the
HBD is. I've been lurking for a couple of months and
found a lot of interesting reading here so, thanks!
My Question:
Whats the best way to maintain sanitation while
dealing with overflow from a violently fermenting
glass carboy? With a 3-piece airlock, is fitting a
tube over the air outlet and running that to a jug of
nearby sanitizer or water enough? What about Krauzen
or whatever seeping around the rubber stopper?
Maybe this is no big deal but I was wondering what
tips you all might have.
Thanks, Rich
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 19:28:09 +0000
From: "Janie Curry/ Todd Weaver" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com>
Subject: low efficiency from malted wheat
Michael Eyre asks about low extraction from malted wheat.
Mike, do you have a way of accurately measuring your mash pH?. In my
current brewing location, I have excellent water and haven't had to make pH
adjustments to the mash. However, I have lived in areas where the mash pH
was outside of the ideal range of pH 5.3-5.5 (taken from a sample cooled to
room temp with an inexpensive gut calibrated pH meter). My pH with pale
colored grains has been as high as pH 5.9 or so and I have had to adjust
down with food grade lactic acid. Didn't take much, maybe a half to full
teaspoonful in the mash. Huge gains in efficiency when the pH is in the
correct range. Also, it helps to acidify the sparge water, if it needs it.
Todd in Fort Collins
Liquid Poets Homebrew Club
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5125, 01/11/07
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