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HOMEBREW Digest #5034
HOMEBREW Digest #5034 Sun 23 July 2006
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
follow-on question to pH discussion ("Christian Layke")
your tax dollars at work: dog booties and beer making equipment ("Peter A. Ensminger")
What's the answer to the Biscuit malt question? ("Peed, John")
big stirrer and prop. yeast ("Ben Dooley")
Grist mill speed (Ralph Link)
Vacuum Sealed Hops and US-56 rehydration ("Andrew Tate")
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Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 10:09:10 -0400
From: "Christian Layke" <clayke at wri.org>
Subject: follow-on question to pH discussion
A.J. posted a very helpful draft version of John's pH discussion.
"Let me state the goal right up front: for best results, the mash pH
should be 5.1 to 5.5 when measured at mash temperature, and 5.4 to 5.8
when
measured at room temperature. (At mash temperature the pH will measure
about 0.3 lower due to greater dissociation of the hydrogen ions.) When
you mash 100% base malt grist with distilled water, you will usually
get
a mash pH between 5.7 to 5.8 (measured at room temperature)."
I now wonder what the implications are for sparge pH. I've always
heeded the warning to not allow the sparge to exceed a pH of 6.0, but I
measure it with a temperature-compensating pH meter at sparge temp. Is
it possible that the recommendation is to avoid allowing sparge pH to
exceed 6.0 at room temperature, and by measuring at 160 to 170 degrees
I'm actually allowing the sparge to get too basic?
Thanks for any insight.
Christian
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 10:18:26 -0400
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: your tax dollars at work: dog booties and beer making equipment
This just in from the Associated Press:
"More than 10,000 Homeland Security Department workers have purchased
cards that let them buy things that are business-related. But
investigators are wondering what the need was for dog booties, iPods and
beer-making equipment."
I don't know about the iPods, but the dog booties were for the
search-and-rescue dogs and the beer is for these workers, who deserve a
cold one after spending all day in the Katrina mess.
Cheers!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9]
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 11:26:27 -0700
From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com>
Subject: What's the answer to the Biscuit malt question?
Neil Spake asked a challenging question on Friday, July 14: "The simple
fact
is no British brewer does or has ever used these malts [Biscuit/Special
Roast] to my knowledge. So, what is in the basic combination of base
malt, maybe some crystal, the water and the yeast used by British
brewers that these malts are attempting to reproduce?" In other words,
why do we use Biscuit malt when the British don't use it? I don't know
the answer; I always assumed that the British did use Biscuit malt. Are
we using it to emulate the flavor imparted by British water?
John Peed
Oak Ridge, TN
Peed's Wicket Alery
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 23:59:12 -0400
From: "Ben Dooley" <bendooley at gmail.com>
Subject: big stirrer and prop. yeast
I recently came into posession of an enormous stirplate, large enough
to use with a five gallon carboy. I know they are commonly used for
yeast starters, but would it be appropriate to put the entire carboy
on the stirplate as a supplement to (or in place of) aeration? If so,
for how long should I leave it on? Eight hours? Twelve? Any thoughts
on this would be appreciated.
On a marginally related note, does anyone know how American breweries
acquire proprietary yeast? I've noticed that several have them. The
explanation for the origins of European yeast culture seem obvious,
but American breweries, which are much younger, shouldn't, I'd imagine
, have had time to develop their own unique strains. Any thoughts?
Does anyone culture their own locally acquired yeast?
Best and thanks for all the beer,
Ben Dooley
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 08:07:55 -0500
From: Ralph Link <ralphl at shaw.ca>
Subject: Grist mill speed
I built a mill several years ago and it generally works well. However on
ocassion the pulleys slip and grain jams up between the rollers and
stalls the action. I am currently using a 1/2 hp.1725 rpm electric motor
with a 2" drive pulley and a 14" driven pulley. This gives my 5" roller
a speed of alittle over 200 rpm. I would like to do a conversion and use
a reduction box witha 40:1 ration and direct drive the whole unit. This
is going to drastically reduce my roller speed to 43 rpm, but nothing is
going to jam it up. ( I hope)
Does anyone have any thoughts on my idea in particular is the roller
speed to slow?
Private email or a posting is much appreciated
Ralph Link
West St.Paul
Manitoba
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 22:28:47 -0500
From: "Andrew Tate" <atatepilot at hotmail.com>
Subject: Vacuum Sealed Hops and US-56 rehydration
First, thanks to the contributors to the HBD. I agree it is still the
"daddy" of internet brewing.
I've been considering buying bulk hops and a vacuum sealer. I'm less
interested in economy than convenience and having a fresh, quality product.
My volume is pretty low, perhaps 5 gallons every 6-8 weeks. Can anyone
advise whether this might be beneficial? Or guide me toward sources and
options for the hops and equipment?
Also, it is interesting that the US-56 yeast does not recommend rehydrating
as some of their other yeast products do. We've seen lots of compelling
reasoning from respected authorities about cell wall permeability,
viability, petit mutants, etc. with regard to unrehydrated yeast. Can
anyone comment on why they might instruct us only to "sprinkle into wort"?
Here's to hoping for some spirited discussion...
Andrew Tate
Boston, MA
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5034, 07/23/06
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