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HOMEBREW Digest #4966

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 15 Apr 2024

HOMEBREW Digest #4966		             Sun 05 March 2006 


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
Re: More well water analysis (Kevin Brown)
Brew shops in MI (Thom Cannell)
wine vs beer ("Peter A. Ensminger")
Re: More well water analysis (stencil)
Corn conversion, enzymes, and one lost brother! ("Michael Eyre")
AFC results ("Chad Stevens")
Re; Kegging problems ("William Frazier")


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Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 13:27:41 -0400
From: Kevin Brown <kbrown at uvi.edu>
Subject: Re: More well water analysis

Calvin Perilloux wrote:

>In fact, your water is
> well suited for such treatment, and you can come
> reasonably close with the addition (per 5 gallons
> of your water as it is out of the tap) of 15g gypsum
> and 7.5 grams Epsom salts. That's 1 ounce and half
> an ounce for unmetrified folk.

Better check those calculations again:
28.35 grams per ounce makes that about a half an ounce for the gypsum
and a quarter of an ounce for the Epsom salts.

Cheers,
Kevin
St. Thomas, Virgin Islands


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 15:51:23 -0500
From: Thom Cannell <Thom at CannellAndAssociates.com>
Subject: Brew shops in MI

> brian-morgan at cinci.rr.com
Subject: Brew shops in MI

Two "near" you, one in Williamston co-located with Michigan Brewing Company
(twofers, beer and brewing supplies) and The Red Salamander in Grand Ledge
627-2012.

I think everyone has a photographic memory; it's just that some of us don't
have film.

Thom Cannell

T_Cannell -- compuserve.com




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 00:23:07 -0500
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: wine vs beer

Greetings!

An interesting article in the British Medical Journal indicates that
people who buy wine make more healthy choices for food than people who
buy beer. Beer people like soda, lamb, sausages, and butter. Wine people
like olives, low fat cheese, fruit, and vegetables.

See: http://bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/332/7540/519

Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9]



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 10:21:38 -0500
From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: More well water analysis

On Thu, 02 Mar 2006 23:53:59 -0500,
Calvin Perilloux wrote in
Homebrew Digest #4965 (March 02, 2006):

>------------------------------
>[ ... ]
>
>I've been tending lately toward using more distilled
>water dilutions rather than the boil+aerate method.
>Distilled water costs me money, but I've found that
>my propane bill does as well. With the last batch
>I used this on, when I included this and the usual
>propane usage for mash/sparge water and a long boil,
>I ripped through half a 20-lb tank for one 5-gallon
>batch of beer. Ouch.
>
Ouch indeed. But a pound of Mrs Wages Pickling Lime is less than four bucks
and will last till the galaxy collapses. Calcium chloride and precipitated
chalk are a little pricier but still less than the cost of boiling ten gallons
of tapwater. The other expenses I've encountered on the trail to negative
Residual Alkalinity are
- LaMotte Alkalinity and Hardness kits ($30 each from
http://www.pollardwater.com/
- pH meter (<$50 from
http://www.masterstouch-giftshop.com/digital-meter-p-7716.html)
- 10-gallon Vittles Vault II ($20 from
http://www.pet-dog-cat-supply-store.com/ )
- mini submersible pump, (<$10 from Wal-Mart )
- sensitive scale ($30 from
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/powhan2.html )
...all of which were already on hand, as I suspect they will be for many
HBD'ers.
The procedures outlined by Hubert Hanghofer in HBD#2540, and as elucidated by
A.J. deLange and John Palmer, are pretty nigh foolproof and the only grief
I've had is regretting not having used them earlier.

stencil sends
[535.2mi, 86.4deg] AR


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 22:17:44 -0800
From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Corn conversion, enzymes, and one lost brother!

Hello all!

Friends, I am lost!

I have attempted two experiments with limited success and have searched
the internet to no end, and still have not found an easy to understand
answer. In a nutshell, what I would like to do is this: Mash some amount
of corn (corn! I have a 25lb bag of it here, pre-cracked regular corn)
of a percentage over 51% corn, with some other amount of perhaps barley
and perhaps rye and convert all that starch into usable sugar for
fermentation. I'm working in two gallon batches now just to experiment,
and what I did the first time was to just crack the pre-cracked grain
smaller than it was, mix it with some 2 row American barley and mash it
for 2 hours at 150. Not much happened. I used 2lbs of corn and 1lb of
barley and I got 1.028 for an O.G. when I expected more. I suspected the
enzymes couldn't get to the interior of the corn, so I looked to the
internet and found that maybe I needed to do a 'cereal mash', and boil
the tar out of the corn, by itself, for about half an hour. So, tonight
I did that. What a mess! Burned it good ot the bottom of the pot, but I
got he process done. I put in about 6 quarts of water with 3lbs of corn
this time around (I'm looking for a higher O.G. this time, so I upped
the recipe to 4lbs of grain total 3lbs corn, 1lb barley) and boiled it.
It got very thick. I mixed in the barley after cooling the corn pudding
to 150 degrees and added 6quarts more water ot the mix, because I wasn't
sure if I should count the water I added to the corn previously or not
(a lot evaporated off, I'm sure, and there was no standing water in the
corn after the boiling process..). So, it's on the stovetop now, looking
like something ugly, but I'm hoping it's converting. The top clear layer
tests good to go on the iodine test, but once I stir the pot up, the
iodine goes completely black when I test it like that. It's been in
there an hour+ now.

Now before you get the idea that I'm making a whiskey wash here, well...
just disregard that particular thought. But then I *was* watching the
discovery channel the other night and saw the Makers Mark thing there...
it looks like they roller mill their corn into *dust*, and then boil it
after that. When do they add the barley in that case? If they do add
barley, not enzymes, do they ferment the stuff all at once in the big
vat at what would be the entire amount of water? How does that all work,
any one know?

I realize this is a hell of a post, but I'm seriously baffled about this
cereal mash stuff. I did check the archives and saw some material there
from Jeff Renner from 2002 or so, but it still all left some stuff
unanswered for me and I'd love to get a step by step, if you all have
one.

Mike

P.S. anyone know what the lowest potential amount, ratio wise, of barley
that you could use to convert cracked corn is, by chance? Do you need
like, 25% 2 row barley to convert 75 corn, is what I'm saying? Can you
use more, or less? I'm sure 6 row would be even better... and how much
better, do you think?



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 19:54:05 -0800
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: AFC results

It is with great pleasure I announce the results of the 14th Annual
America's Finest City Homebrew Competition are now available at:

www.quaff.org/AFC2006/CategoryResults.html

Chuck West's BOS Oatmeal Stout will be brewed commercially at Oggi's Mission
Valley in San Diego. Thanks also to HBD, White Labs, AleSmith, and Briess
for sponsorship.

Most importantly, thanks to the HBD'rs from 18 states who participated. It
wouldn't be much of a competition without your participation.

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 10:01:41 -0600
From: "William Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re; Kegging problems

Jeremy Blum of Takoma Park, MD wrote: "My final question regards my last
kegging experience. I applied 35 psi of pressure and shook it vigorously
for 10 minutes. Then I reduced the pressure to 5 psi. The results were
less than ideal. Initially I ended up with alot of head as the beer was
dispensed, but not alot carbonation actually in the beer."

Jeremy - Check the length of your dispensing hose. This hose needs to be
pretty long to avoid immediate loss of carbonation when you pour a beer,
resulting in a big head and little carbonation left in the beer. I had the
same problem but found that a 6 to 8 foot length of hose, between the keg
and tap, solved the problem.

Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas USA




------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4966, 03/05/06
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