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HOMEBREW Digest #4833
HOMEBREW Digest #4833 Sun 28 August 2005
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
Miker Eyer's lauter ("Dave Burley")
Our first Barley Wine, looking for suggestions... ("Mike Sharp")
has anyone used a coleman powerchill cooler? ("mark l.")
Re: Our first Barley Wine, looking for suggestions ("Pete Calinski")
Re: molasses in beer ("-S")
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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 08:50:42 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net>
Subject: Miker Eyer's lauter
Brewsters:
Mike Eyer says his wort ended up at 1.038 and he had to stop since he had
already too much wort.
Assuming you did not make a mistake in your reading, I can only assume your
lautering technique needs some work.
First, a lautering should take about an hour. You need this kind of time for
the wort to diffuse out of the grain and be replaced by the wash. So slow is
best.
After you put the mash in the lauter tun allow it to settle a few minutes so
you will not develop a channel. Avoid developing a channel by placing a lid
or some object on the surface of the grain onto which you pour the wash.
Don't let the grain bed go dry.
Your final runnings should be in the range 1.010 to 1.006 and have an acid
pH which can be guaranteed by using a small amount of lactic acid in the
wash. This avoids extraction of phenols from the husk.
Glad your results are improved with the milling change, now you have to
capture it.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 11:14:48 -0700
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: Our first Barley Wine, looking for suggestions...
Michael Eyre looks for suggestions for his first Barley Wine...
Well, I hate to admit it in this forum, but I cheated for my first
barleywine. I did the strongest mash I could manage in my mashtun (at the
time is was a round 5 gallon Rubbermaid cooler), then added pale malt
extract to get it up to my target gravity. I used a 90 minute boil, and
hopped the heck out of it.
Yeah, it wasn't all-grain, but it still took a silver medal in one Comp, and
a bronze in another. One thing though, as it aged, it did seem to get too
"dry" with respect to the hop character, as I have found with most of my all
extract beers. But for your first barleywine, it makes it a lot easier.
Just don't wait too long to drink it! ;^)
Regards,
Mike Sharp
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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 17:13:20 -0400
From: "mark l." <mplarrivee at cox.net>
Subject: has anyone used a coleman powerchill cooler?
Hi,
I've been lurking around HBD for a long time now, but haven't had a
need to post until now. I am wondering if anyone has used (or tried to
use) a coleman powerchill electric cooler for fermenting.
I've been brewing for a while now, first at a BOP shop that went out of
business here in RI and now at home (after a long 'discussion' with
swmbo). Pretty much have kept to the basics; I use a propane turkey
fryer on my deck for brewing (swmbo wouldn't allow it in her kitchen)
and ferment in my basement when the temperature allows, and that is my
problem at the moment. In the summer my basement gets too warm for
fermenting (over 80F) and in the depths of winter it gets to an unhappy
temp for either ales or lagers ( at 55F). I'd like to use the coleman
cooler to rectify that situation. I don't want to have to have a
permanent fridge just for brewing (well swmbo doesn't), and it would be
handy to be able to put the fermenter in the basement in the cooler
months (instead of the spare bathtub), and it would be really nice to be
able to brew in the summer (like now). It also would be small enough to
store and should really easy to clean in case of a mess.
So my questions are:
Has anyone tried one?
Will it even fit a 5 gal. carboy (or fermenting bucket)?
They have them at the local wal-mart for at $65 and it seems like a good
idea to me, but I don't want to waste my precious brew money on
equipment that doesn't work well, so I thought I'd ask the experts here
and HBD.
Oh, and jsut for my 2 cents...
George Thurogood
Bela Fleck
Frank Zappa
Steely Dan
(of course) the grateful dead
The Who
Procul Harem
I could go on and on...
Thanks
Mark L.
Hope Valley, RI
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 22:26:08 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Our first Barley Wine, looking for suggestions
Well, you could do what I do. I use as much grain for the mash as I can
fit,
then add 3 lbs of DME during the boil. That gets the OG up and has little
effect on flavor in my opinion.
Hope this helps.
Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY
http://hbd.org/pcalinsk
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*My goal:
* Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
* (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
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Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 05:31:16 -0400
From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: molasses in beer
FWIW, molasses (treacle) is quite high in iron and my limited experience
using it in brewing is that the iron can become objectionable when the
levels get very high. You *might* get away with Papazian's 1 cup in a
batch *if* the other beer flavors are very big, but I'd suggest you start
with a milder dose. I genuinely like the flavor molasses lends to ales,
but as soon as the iron becomes apparent - ugh !
Tho' unsulphured molasses is the norm these days, the amount of SO2 from
diluted 'sulphitated' molasses should not be an issue in brewing.
-SteveA
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4833, 08/28/05
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