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HOMEBREW Digest #4784
HOMEBREW Digest #4784 Tue 07 June 2005
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
Re: Erlenmeyer Flasks (asemok)
Topical Iodine for Sanitizing ("Eric R. Theiner")
RE: How to open a sankey keg for home brewing ("Paul Clarke")
HCCP V1.2 ("Alan Folsom")
Natural Gas Burners (Eric Schoville)
RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks (roger789)
Pressure Gauges ("May, Jeff")
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 01:00:25 -0400
From: asemok at mac.com
Subject: Re: Erlenmeyer Flasks
On Jun 2, 2005, at 11:02 PM, "Peter Beauregard" <peterb at
desktopstandard.com> wrote:
> I have been doing starters for years in Erlenmeyer
> Flasks over gas on the stove, but have recently
> moved into a house with a flat top electric stove.
> Anyone out there had any bad experiences doing
> starters on this type of stove?
> Thanks!
Shouldn't be a problem, just use common sense care so as not to crack
the flasks (you don't have to use the "high" heat setting). But if
there is an inexpensive alternative that will put you at ease...a
butane stove. Handles like a gas burner, is portable and relatively
inexpensive to feed, and handy as hell.
These are sold in specialty stores and especially in Asian markets of
the type found in larger East Coast cities and they are a lifesaver in
the brew kitchen. Paid under $30 for mine, and use it for the task you
describe as well as heating up quantities of decoction to raise mash
temps, sterilizing small fittings, and various other brew tasks. I
can't imagine brewing without it.
cheers,
AL
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 11:09:43 -0500
From: "Eric R. Theiner" <rickdude at tds.net>
Subject: Topical Iodine for Sanitizing
Sean asks about using iodophor from an OR in homebrewing...
Unfortunately, it will probably contain skin conditioners
(lanolin, etc.) to minimize the irritation caused by the use
of the treatment. Those will present the same types of issues
that you'll get if you use dishwashing soap for cleaning
(head retention issues, possible flavor from residue, etc.).
BUT I hate to throw anything away. I'd try it out first by
diluting the solution to the proper level for hard surface
sanitizing (12.5 ppm; let me know if you need help in
figuring the calculation to dilute). Then I'd make up a
cheap and simple kit beer that would show off flavors (a
favorite test for me is 2 cans of Munton's American Light to
a 5 gallon batch-- it's an acceptablelawnmower beer and the
neighbors will drink it).
Good luck!
Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 21:17:46 -0400
From: "Paul Clarke" <ptclarke at sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: How to open a sankey keg for home brewing
Daytona, that was painful, man.
How about just posting the link next time?
PClarke, Ottawa ON, Canada
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Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 08:43:27 -0400
From: "Alan Folsom" <alan at folsoms.net>
Subject: HCCP V1.2
I'd like to announce the availability of version 1.2 of HCCP, my Homebrew
Competition Coordination Program. HCCP is a free windows-based
package for managingall the requirements of a competition. HCCP has
to date been used in at least 17competitions of which I am aware.
Version 1.2 includes a large number of new features, mostly generated
from the requests of the competition organizers. These include:
- the ability to handle multiple brewers per entry
- A parallel entry database, for entries which have not yet been
received. These can then be marked as received and assigned
entry numbers when they are in hand.
- Option for new, larger, bottle labels.
- Option for bottle labels with category numbers, for those who
wish to label bottles after the the entries are entered into the
system
- Ribbon labels to attach to the back of award ribbons
- Significantly enhanced generation of the XML report for
submitting to the BJCP. Now validates entries and attempts to
calculate point awards for Organizers, Judges, and Stewards
based on the size of the competition. It can also be "saved" for
future use or updating.
- Many, many minor bug fixes.
HCCP 1.2 uses a slightly different database format than previous
versions. Any old format databases will be automatically updated to
the new format if imported into HCCP.
For more information, screen shots, or documentation; or to download
HCCP,go to http://www.folsoms.net/hccp/
Cheers,
Al Folsom
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 13:20:28 -0500
From: Eric Schoville <eric at schoville.com>
Subject: Natural Gas Burners
Is it possible to convert a Cajun cooker style propane burner to use
natural gas? I have bought a house with a convenient gas line in the
garage. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Eric Schoville
Madison, Wisconsin
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:52:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: roger789 at sonic.net
Subject: RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks
I make starters in 1000mL erlenmeyer flasks on my electric stove (and I
just got a 2000mL flask that I will use for lager step-ups). I will say
first that it is much easier to regulate the temperature on gas stoves
than it is on an electric range, at least until you get used to it. In
short, you can do it.
To prevent sticky boilovers, my suggestion is to slowly ramp up the wort
temp until you get to the minimum stove setting necessary for a boil. I'd
rather spend 30min to get to and complete a starter boil than spend any
amount of time scrubbing caramelized wort off of burner elements & the
stove.
Roger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 12:05:07 -0400
From: "May, Jeff" <Jeff.May at uscellular.com>
Subject: Pressure Gauges
I have a 5# CO2 tank with a double regulator. Each reg has a 30psi gauge
and I have a 4000psi gauge on the high side. I have gone through 3 low side
pressure gauges in as many years. Best I can figure is that when I turn on
the gas too fast or quickly release the pressure, the needle bounces and
somehow the mechanism gets sprung. I have had failures where it rests at
something other than zero and I have also had it totally pegged off scale
(wrapped around). I just blew my third one and I decided to open it up to
see what's going on inside. The workings are pretty simple but delicate. I
managed to get the needle reset and it seems to be functional. I dug out
the two other blown gauges and 'fixed' those as well. However, they all seem
to read different now. Is there a way to calibrate these things? I still
need to buy a replacement gauge, but are there any ingenious ways of
checking the accuracy besides building a manifold and comparing it to a new
reference gauge? Is anyone else having problems with popping these, or am I
just heavy handed with my CO2 valve?
Jeff May
Wilmington, NC
AR[649.7,148.6]
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4784, 06/07/05
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