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HOMEBREW Digest #4617
HOMEBREW Digest #4617 Fri 01 October 2004
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
German Pilsner Yeast ("Rowan Williams")
Re: Jeff Renner's Oktoberfest recipe/German malts (Jeff Renner)
Trubbles, cold regulator ("Dave Burley")
Trub Separation ("Dan Listermann")
"Killer Vienna" recipe (Jeff Renner)
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 19:53:38 -0700
From: "Rowan Williams" <rowan at canberrabrewers.org>
Subject: German Pilsner Yeast
Hi folks,
I am trying to put together a recipe for an all grain German
Pilsner of about 23 Litres. Can somebody please recommend a
good Wyeast or dry yeast type that would be consistent with this
style, yet allow me to ferment the pilsner at a pretty high temp?
My problem is that I cannot ferment the pilsner below 18C / 64.4F.
Cheers,
Rowan Williams
Canberra Brewers Club
[9588.6, 261.5] AR (statute miles)
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Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 08:47:48 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Jeff Renner's Oktoberfest recipe/German malts
"Kevin Kutskill" <beer-geek at comcast.net> wrote:
>Thanks for the recipe, Jeff--between this, and your German soft pretzel
>recipe, this will be almost as good as being in Munich.
The O'fest was for friends who were having the party. What I would
rather have made, because I always get a hankerin' for it when the
weather turns crisp and the leaves turn color, is a rich (but not
sweet) Munich Dunkles. Guess not this year.
>I have noticed (I think) that you seem to use mostly Durst malts for your
>Vienna and Oktoberfest. Is this because of local availability, or
>preference due to quality of the resulting beer?
I do use Durst - strictly because of availability. GW Kent, importer
and wholesaler here in Ann Arbor, carries it, so that's what our
shops carry. I haven't tried any other German malts so I can't
compare them. I probably should. Weyermann certainly has a good
reputation. I don't know what HBDers in general prefer - you could
ask. I do definitely like German malts for German beers, and even
more prefer Maris Otter for British styles.
Cheers
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
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Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 08:51:32 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net>
Subject: Trubbles, cold regulator
Brewsters,
William Erskine asks about how to remove the trub from the post boil chilled
wort.
Settling is one option and doesn't seem to make more than a few mintes in my
simple setup. I suspect you are too concerned with perfection. In fact, a
little trub is a "good thing" as our favorite jailbird would say.
Trub can supply nutrients and cell wall building blocks to the yeast during
their growth phase.
More likely your exclusive use of pelleted hops versus the whole leaf hops for
at least a portion of your hopping is the problem.
Whole leaf hops provide a bed which filters the majority of the trub. In my
case, I have a countercurrent chiller which removes the hot wort from the
kettle. The only waiting time is about ten minutes after I whirlpool the
mixture and the majority of the trub and hops settle in the middle. The
removal tube is along the edge of the kettle
The secret is the use of a SS or copper soapless scrubber "choreboy" as a
screen which prevents the hops from entering the chiller tube. The hops form a
filter bed and the majority of the trub stays in the boiler. No reason why
this can't work for you. You will be amazed at how all of the wort can be
extracted from the hops bed without any appreciable trub
No reason why this won't work after chilling in which the trub includes both
the hot and cold break.
The use of Irish Moss as a natural flocculant
during the last 10 minutes of the boil also improves wort clarity.
Don't throw away any substantial quantities of wort. Ferment it separately if
you wish
- ---------------------
The only problem in keeping the CO2 tank in the fridge is if you continually
move it into and out of the fridge. The POSSIBILITY exists that you will build
up internal moisuture and get some corrosion,which can get you a sticky and
poorly functioning regulator.
- --------------------
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
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Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 09:36:40 -0400
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com>
Subject: Trub Separation
<From: "William Erskine" <werskin at sympatico.ca>
Question #1: Just how important is separating the trub from the wort
after boiling? >
Not very. Commercial brewers almost universally ferment with cold break
since it forms in the counterflow chillers on the way to the fermenters.
Hop pellets aren't a problem either as can be seen from the practice of dry
hopping.
<Question #2 Is there a better way to separate the trub than the "let it
settle
method"? I've heard whirl-pooling is less effective when using hop
pellets.>
Whirlpooling is highly effective _especially_ with pellet hops.
Don't let a little trub stress you.
Dan Listermann
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 13:14:41 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: "Killer Vienna" recipe
After "Kevin Kutskill" <beer-geek at comcast.net> wrote
>C'mon Jeff! Don't tease us . . . . I love (and frequently brew) your
>"Killer Vienna" recipe
I have received several requests for the recipe. BTW, the name is
Kevin's, not mine. I'll have to brew this abain as an O'fest is a
little big for drinking large amounts.
I posted it at http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/3257.html#3257-13 :
>Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:37:11 -0500
>From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
>Subject: Re: Pitching Rates and Munich Malt
>
>Jim Dunlap <JDPils at aol.com> writes of his methods of getting
>full attenuation, especially with high levels of Munich malt:
>
> >In the future for high % munich beers I will try
> >
> >1) mash temperatures in the 148 - 153 range to optimize fermentable sugars.
>
>I agree with the importance of full attenuation for most beers. If
>you can do step mashes, try mashing at 144-146F for 30 minutes, then
>step up to 158-160 for another 30 minutes. I have been doing this
>with success in Pilsners and a Vienna, which used 10 lbs, Vienna, 2
>lbs Pils and 1 lb.
>carapils for 7.75 gallons at 1.048. I fermented with 250 ml.
>repitched Ayinger yeast solids (putty consistency) at 48F. Lag time
>a few hours. FG = 1.012 for 75% apparent attenuation. One would
>think that with the Vienna and carapils it would have finished
>higher. This was the most elegant Vienna I've ever made. George
>Fix had nice things to say about it at MCAB in Houston at an
>informal tasting. One often thinks of Viennas as being sweet, but I
>don't think they should be - just malty. Sweetness detracts. A good
>Munich Dunkel can/should be well attenuated as well, though perhaps
>not quite as much.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4617, 10/01/04
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