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HOMEBREW Digest #4470
HOMEBREW Digest #4470 Sat 07 February 2004
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Filtration ("melanchthon")
Plastic and bleach (Jeremy Hansen)
Re: McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale (Jeff Renner)
Another Washing Motor Question (rickdude02)
Circumcision of Dip Tubes (rickdude02)
Re: dip tube circumcision (Jeff Renner)
March beer recipes? (Patrick-Gabriel Clarke)
Dip Tube Circumcision ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
Re: Aluminum or Steel co2 Tank ("Dave and Joan King")
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Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 08:04:18 -0500
From: "melanchthon" <rhayader at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Filtration
I have recently purchased a simple under-the-counter style canister filter
with a 5 micron floss tube. I used it for the first time on a spruce tip
beer while moving it from the secondary to the keg.
My first question is concerning the degree of filtration. How much is
enough? How much is too much? I think this one seems to be adequate but
should I be looking to get down to 2 or 1? I'm pretty sure I'd need a lot
more pressure to push the beer through a .1 or .5 and I think that would
filter out too much of the "good stuff."
Now the second question. I sanitized the floss tube by soaking in an
iodophor solution and then draining shortly before use. To store, I shot
some water through to rinse after use and keep the floss tube in a tall jar
of iodophor in my beer fridge to keep any nasties out. This is how I intend
to reuse the filter rather than toss it, even though they're only $3.50
each. Does this seem like adequate precaution to fight infections?
By the way, at 5 microns, my CO2 cylinder and very mild pressure is enough
to push the beer out of the carboys, through the filter and into the keg. I
was very pleased with the simplicity and procedural workings of my "system."
Chris Hart
D u n g s h o v e l e r s o n ' s G a t e B r e w e r y (for some reason,
the mail program rejects my brewery's name!)
1000 NW 51st Terrace
Gainesville, FL 32605
(352) 339-0324
rhayader at bellsouth.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 08:20:34 -0600
From: Jeremy Hansen <cfjh at eiu.edu>
Subject: Plastic and bleach
Hi gang.
I am a rank amateur, just finished with my first couple of good batches of
all-grain. Previously, I had a problem with an awful chemical taste and
smell. After a little research, I learned what bleach can do if used for too
long to sanitize a plastic fermentor. I am fairly sure (based on my meager
experience and googling skills) that this was a phenol problem. I switched
to Iodophor and a new fermentor, and everything is fine. My question is
whether the previous fermentor is permanently ruined, or can I start using
it again without worrying about this apparent phenol problem?
Jeremy Hansen
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:31:06 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale
Ted Grudzinski <tgrudzin at yahoo.com> wrote
>According to your recipe and yeast choice, the numbers
>don't match. <snip>
>
>According to the numbers I calculated, (by hand)the
>two liquid Irish type yeast put the FG right about
>1.011. Is 1.105 [sic] Correct? I plan to make the beer
>anyway, as I still judge by taste, not hydrometer, but
>I was curious about your 1.015 numbers. Does the
>flaked barley add unfermentables that will keep the
>numbers high?
It is not a science, but the relatively high mash temperature I
specified should make for more unfermentables. As I wrote in the
original post:
>Mash 154F/68C 60 minutes for a somewhat higher FG than usual.
It usually works for me. The flaked barley is more for mouthfeel and
creaminess, or at least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Jeff
>Jeff,
>According to your recipe and yeast choice, the numbers
>don't match.
>
>"McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale
>5.25 gallons at 1.044/ FG 1.015
>Irish Ale yeast or any ale yeast (I prefer more
>flavorful yeasts than
>1056)."
>
>According to the numbers I calculated, (by hand)the
>two liquid Irish type yeast put the FG right about
>1.011. Is 1.105 Correct? I plan to make the beer
>anyway, as I still judge by taste, not hydrometer, but
>I was curious about your 1.015 numbers. Does the
>flaked barley add unfermentables that will keep the
>numbers high?
>
>Ted
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:42:59 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net
Subject: Another Washing Motor Question
I have been very interested to see what kind of
responses come back on the wiringquestion for
the washing machine motor because I have one,
too. And my intention is to rig it up to a grain
mill as well.
But my question is about gear ratios. First, do
I even need to worry about it? It just seemed to
me that even on the low speed, it might be too
fast for the grain mill. Secondly, (and I suppose
I could just work the math out myself, but it's
soooooo much easier asking this panel of
experts) is there a rule of thumb about speed
reduction vis a vis wheel size?
Thanks for all help!
Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:44:35 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net
Subject: Circumcision of Dip Tubes
I think this is a cruel practice and must be
ended!!!
Seriously, I've never cut my dip tubes
because I clarify the beer in secondary,
rack to the keg, and force carbonate.
>From that point, the keg never moves.
(Ideally it never moves, but sometimes
I have to shift kegs around in the fridge...)
Because I don't condition in the keg, my
sediment is limited. There is some, to be
sure, but after the first glass (I let the keg
sit for a couple of days after force carbonating
and the sediment seems to drop over that
time), it runs clear for the rest of the time.
Jostling *may* produce another cloudy glass,
but that's it.
And I like to think that I get almost every
drop out of my kegs.
Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:39:58 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: dip tube circumcision
Steve Bruns <sdbruns at telus.net> writes from Penticton, BC (that's
British Columbia in Canada for you overseas types who don't know NA
geography):
>I've read somewhere that one should cut about 1" off of the "out" dip
>tube in a Corny to help avoid dispensing the sediment as it settles out
>in the keg. Good idea or no?
I've never done it. Seems like a waste of a good tube and good beer
as you won't be able to empty the keg.
The first pint or two is cloudy but as long as I don't disturb the
keg, the rest are clean until the end. If you keg clear beer and
force carbonate it, there will be very little sediment.
Or, once you have pulled off the cloudy pint or two, you can rack to
a clean keg. As various brewers including me have posted here
before, you can fill the receiving keg with water and blow it out
with CO2, completely purging it. Then rack either by siphoning with
a jumper between the gas in fittings or rack with CO2 pressure.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 11:20:03 -0800
From: Patrick-Gabriel Clarke <hbd.to.theq at xoxy.net>
Subject: March beer recipes?
1st post here after lurking and (hopefully) learning for a while. FWIW,
even the way-over-my-head content is enjoyable, although sometimes the
sheer amount of information/posts overwhelms a bit..
On to my question:
We just saw a new (to us) bottle-conditioned offering from New Belgium
Brewing in our grocery store yesterday - a "Biere De Mars" ale.
From the very attractive label -
"...After gazing at its cloudy, yet glowing orange hue, prepare yourself
for a celestial collaboration of oats, wheat, barley malt and lemon
verbena, all of which is set into orbit by unidentified flying yeast
strains."
So New Belgium Brewing has a sense of humor as well as tasty beer!
I don't really taste the lemon verbena (this may not be a very bad
thing), nor have I ever tasted the "March ale" style before - but I
really like it. Seems like it might be a good session style, and I've
been meaning to brew up a keg of something or other for a birthday party
in March, but have been delayed by the lack of inspiration - until
(perhaps) now!
Does anyone have a good extract/sp. grains recipe for a March Beer they
could share? Doesn't have to be a clone (at least as long as the New
Belgian version is reasonably representative of the style!) Also, is
this a style that might be reasonably ready in 4-6 weeks (kegged and
force carbonated)?
TIA!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 13:33:53 -0800
From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com>
Subject: Dip Tube Circumcision
Steve Bruns, who lives way up here in God's Country, is wondering whether or
not his dip tube needs to be kosher.
I'd suggest not. I have done this to about half of my corny kegs, and aside
from leaving the better part of a pint of beer at the bottom, they don't
seem to take any less time to run clear at the start. IIRC, I think it was
Jeff who also mentioned to me off-list that it's better to get more of the
settled yeast out of the beer at the start, so leaving it long might be
better.
Steve Dale-Johnson
Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian
Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 19:52:25 -0500
From: "Dave and Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum or Steel co2 Tank
It probably depends upon what state or country you're in, but here in NY
state of the good old USA, we have to get our CO2 tanks pressure tested
every few years, so trading tanks is the only practical method, otherwise,
you have to periodically get your tank pressure tested and certified to be
safe.
Trading them means you can get some rather ratty looking tanks, but they're
supposed to be safe, and that's what counts.
It costs me about $8 to 12 for my 10 lb tank (depending on who I go to),
with care it lasts a year, and I hear it's about the same cost for a 5 lb
refill & trade, so I suggest 10 lb tanks. FWIW
Dave King (BIER), [396.1, 89.1] apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4470, 02/07/04
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