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HOMEBREW Digest #4348
HOMEBREW Digest #4348 Mon 15 September 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
RE: Bigfoot Barley Wine Clone ("Steve Smith")
Re: Fullers Vintage Ale ("Matt Walker")
ie, (darrell.leavitt)
Welding in the N. MA, S. NH area (Cairns Jim MTPROUS)
Re: Bigfoot Barley Wine Clone? (NO Spam)
Cellaring Corked beers (was re: Fullers Vintage Ale) (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
Yeast Nutrient confusion ("Ian Watson")
Oxygenation of wort ("Jules Myers")
1st Annual Hogtown Brew-Off (David Perez)
Bubba and the Liaryer ("Dave Burley")
DME priming, dog biscuits and hops,milk stout,whey beer ("Dave Burley")
Foamy mash (David Cords)
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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:56:44 -0600
From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith@in-tch.com>
Subject: RE: Bigfoot Barley Wine Clone
Mark:
You can find a clone for Bigfoot barley wine in Tess and Mark
Szamatulski's new, excellent book "Beer Captured" ($16.95 US) from Maltose
Press www.maltosepress.com. Upon request, my local brew supply store always
makes me a copy of any recipe I have found in a book I don't choose to buy,
if they have the book in stock. Maybe your local supplier would do the same
if you don't want to buy this one.
However, I do recommend "Beer Captured" which has lots of extras,
including really delightful little histories/info accompanying the recipes
of each original brew they have cloned, including mini-mash and all-grain
versions, plus good charts, serving suggestions and other helpful info, even
a section of food recipes that include beer as an ingredient. I'm not a
marketer for the authors or publishers, just liked what they came up with.
As the bubbles arose I felt good all the way to my toes,
Steve A. Smith
Missoula, MT
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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 23:13:45 -0700
From: "Matt Walker" <matt@suckerfish.net>
Subject: Re: Fullers Vintage Ale
We opened a bottle of '99 Fullers Vintage at last month's Bay Area Brew Crew
meeting and while it was quite good, the consensus was that it was past its
prime. A number of recent tastings of the '99 vintage on
http://www.ratebeer.com/ confirm this as well. You might be wise to drink
it in the near future.
Cheers!
-- Matt
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 06:02:46 -0400
From: darrell.leavitt@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: ie,
ie, asked differently, is it ok to transfer an abbey into secondary after
only 4-5 days, or should one wait longer? The activity has subsided a
bit, and I know that if I use this yeast for a new batch the lag time will
be minimal....
..Daarrell
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 08:55:50 -0400
From: Cairns Jim MTPROUS <Jim.Cairns@mt.com>
Subject: Welding in the N. MA, S. NH area
Hello all! I'm hoping someone(s) out here could help or at least point me
the right direction. I am currently putting together a completely automated
RIMS system and I have some S.S. welding I need done. I am in the North
Massachusetts, Southern New Hampshire area. Does anyone in this are have any
suggestion on where to go in this area to have my Kegs cut and fitting
welded? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Jim C.
"Hey! What's all the BREW-ha-ha about?"
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 12:04:52 -0400
From: NO Spam <nospam@brewbyyou.net>
Subject: Re: Bigfoot Barley Wine Clone?
>Anyone out there have a good all-grain clone recipe for
>Bigfoot Barley Wine? The Sierra Nevada website has a
>fair amount of information, but I'd appreciate any input
>into developing a recipe.
Wasn't that one of the many recipes just published in the
July Zymurgy? (Best issue of Zymurgy I've seen in ages.)
I think so.
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 12:20:47 -0400
From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
Subject: Cellaring Corked beers (was re: Fullers Vintage Ale)
Mark Tumarkin asks what we think about how to cellar corked beers -
upright or on the side?
Several years agog I had heard from a few folks that George Gale & Sons
Prize Old Ale was a wonderful brew. So, I bought one, brought it home,
chilled a bit, peeled back the wax pulled the cork. Yechh!! It was
totally flat and very heavily oxidized. It tasted real bad, but I
figured it was just a poorly handled bottle, so some time later I tried
another one. Yechh again!!. Same thing.
Over a period of a couple of years I tried it 4 times, all with terrible
results. Then maybe a year ago I bought my 5th bottle, and at about
$3.50-$4.00 each I was up to around $20 by now. I decided that this was
Georgie's last chance - if this one wasn't any good, I would quit
trying. Voila!! It was absolutely wonderful!!
Now I don't know the reason why the others were bad, but it seems to me
that they must have lost their seal, losing all the carbonation and
allowing O2 to seep in. Maybe storage on the side would not have
prevented this, but in my opinion it certainly couldn't have hurt it.
With beers that are both corked and capped, I would think that upright
storage would be fine. But for beers that only have corks (and maybe
some wax or foil) I think I would 'lay them down'.
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN
State of Franklin Homebrewers (http://hbd.org/franklin)
[421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] AR
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 17:49:51 -0400
From: "Ian Watson" <realtor@niagara.com>
Subject: Yeast Nutrient confusion
Hi all
I have just discovered that, while making dill pickles, I mistakenly used
yeast nutrient along with the sea salt. I have the habit of transferring
sea salt from the cardboard container it comes in, into mason jars, so the
salt stays dry. It appears I did the same with a package of yeast nutrient,
and neglected to label them. It didn't help that the crystals look the
same. I had used all the REAL sea salt from one mason jar, and then added
some yeast nutrient.
So, my question, is: Is a couple teaspoons of yeast nutrient going to do me
any damage if I eat the pickles? Assuming that they taste allright?
cursing my lack-of-labeling,
Ian Watson
St. Catharines, On, Canada
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:11:25 -0500
From: "Jules Myers" <julesmyers@charter.net>
Subject: Oxygenation of wort
I happened to read the questions that were posed to Dr Cone a
couple of nights ago. One of the answers that wasn't over my
head concerned the oxygenation of wort prior to pitching the
yeast. Dr Cone was concerned that some medical grade oxygen
contains a fungicide. I happened to be on the verge of brewing a
batch of American pale ale and was going to use an aerating stone
and a tank of hospital oxygen for the first time. This disturbed me
and I proceeded to conduct my own version of a controlled
experiment.
I prepared two mason jars with a cup of 100 degree water in each,
in which had been dissolved one tablespoon of sugar. I dropped my
stainless steel stone in one and ran the oxygen at a slow steady flow
for 90 seconds. I then pitched 1/2 teaspoon of baker's yeast in each
and covered them both. One hour later the untreated jar was thriving
and the aerated one was not.
I next conduced the same experiment using the neighbor's welding
oxygen, trying to keep all other elements of the experiment the same.
Again, one hour later the unaerated jar was thriving, and the aerated
one was not.
What conclusions should I draw from these results? Most of what I've
read recommends the use of pure oxygen (I believe Dave Miller does
not), but it seems clear that my use of oxygen on both cases either
killed or stunted the yeast development. Needless to say, I shook my
carboy vigorously out in the garage rather than risking yeast death.
I'd be grateful for any input.
Jules Myers, Woodlawn, TN
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:22:26 -0400
From: David Perez <perez@gator.net>
Subject: 1st Annual Hogtown Brew-Off
Well the day has finally arrived. The gates are open are your beers
should be pouring into the 1st Annual Hogtown Brew-Off. The window for
submitting entries is from today, September 15th through Friday, October
3. This should give more than ample time for your entries to settle, so
they can be in the best condition for the judges.
We are already getting commitments from some of the best judges in the
state and would be honored to have to come down to Gainesville to
evaluate the entries. Go to our website, http://hbd.org/hogtown/ for all
the info you need to enter or to judge. We regret that we have been
unable to get our online entry system to work but the old fashioned
method of printing the forms for submission works just fine. If you have
any problems or need any information just drop me a note perez@gator.net .
Thanks and good luck.
Dave Perez
Hogtown Brewers
Gainesville, FL
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 13:37:33 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: Bubba and the Liaryer
Brewsters:
Bubba called an attorney and asks, "Is it true they're suing the cigarette
companies for causing people to get cancer?"
"Yes, Bubba, that's true" answered the lawyer.
"And people are suing the fast food restaurants for making them fat and
clogging their arteries with all them burgers and fries--is that true, mister
lawyer?"
"Sure is, Bubba, but why do you ask?"
"Cause I was thinkin' maybe I can sue Budweiser for all them ugly women I've
been wakin' up with."
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
Anderson, SC
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 15:51:42 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: DME priming, dog biscuits and hops,milk stout,whey beer
Brewsters:
JoeB is confused in Daytona about instructions to use DME as priming for his
bottles. It's OK, but there is a risk of a little cloudiness from various
proteins and such that might precipitate out in the bottle on contact with the
hops tannins and not in the kettle as would happen with DME in the mash.
You can even use sucrose for priming. It is a myth that priming with sucrose
produces a vinegary/cidery taste. It is a disaccharide but no need to invert
it before either, as the yeast will do that for you with the external enzyme
invertase and produce a mixture of fructose and glucose, the very sugars you
are buying to add for priming. Perhaps sucrose will take a little longer to
prime, as some suggest, but I doubt it. I have used sugar for many years and
never had a problem and never found a difference when I used other sugars.
- -----------------
I'm playing catchup after picking grapes and winemaking last week so this may
have been commented on, but Dave Houseman needs to be reminded of the cautions
about hops and dogs in making spent grain dog biscuits ( a Great idea by the
way). IF you do mash hopping DO NOT use these spent grains for dog biscuits as
some dogs die from ingesting hops ( check the archives) .
Proplan dog biscuits use brewers grains rice in their biscuits I believe.
Here's a starter recipe I use for my woofer's "cookies" based on all dry
ingredients Substitute brewer's grains for the rice in this recipe and correct
this for the amount of water in your grains or just mix to the correct
consistency.
3-2-1 dog cookies ( DRBs Chicken & Rice Dog Biscuits recipe)
3 cup Millers Bran,
2 cup brown rice,
1 cup all purpose flour.
2 TLBs Chicken bouillion crystals
Add water ( about 11/2 cups to get a soft cookie dough consistency )
Spread this out into a teflon lined cookie pan, score on top with a spatula or
plastic ruler. Bake at 325 until very dry about 1-1/2 to 2 hours at 325 F It
is important that these be very dry so they will keep.
You can add fats to this, as often found in the store bought variety, but
you will need to add anti-oxidants or use hydrogenated oils or such. I think
my dog likes the extra crunch without the fat. This low fat/low carb ( and
Brewer's grains are even lower) version means you can feed them even to dogs
with a weight problem. The bran is included here to provide bulk but I believe
it also makes the biscuit easier to break than would a straight dough. The
Brewer's Grain should also provide bran and provide the same function of
friability.
- -------------
Eric this may have been answered but I used such Bapap method of sparging for
many years. Prior to that I used a series of washing of spent grain is
various arrangements of cheese cloth and collanders and such. In all such
methods the mashed grain is just rinsed with hot water and the resulting rinse
along with the drained wort is directed to the boiler.
Whether you remove all the wort first and then wash or add the sparge water as
the wort drains off is a variable often commented on here and either method
works. Minimize the amount of air you mix into the wort before during and
after the boil.
- --------------
Milk stout ( name no longer permitted commercially in Britain) originally
comes from the adding of unfermentable milk sugar ( lactose) to sweeten
stout for nursing ladies to have their daily pint guilt free. Europeans (
including German fraus) used to drink beer to help in milk production, as the
beer provided carbs and vitamins (B from the yeast) in an often sparse diet .
It probably didn't hurt that both Mom and baby slept better!
- ---------------
Mark Lewandowski - whey from your cheese has no milk sugar ( lactose) - right?
The lactic bacteria ate it and made lactic acid. Your stout should not have
been any sweeter as in Milk Stout but should have been closer to a Belgian, if
anything
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 19:37:26 -0400
From: David Cords <dcords@engin.umd.umich.edu>
Subject: Foamy mash
Hello all, A few days ago I brewed an IPA using Mutons PLC Whole Otter
barley. The strangest thing occurred during the one hour mash. The mash
became very foamy. I currently am using a 3 1/2 barrel, two tier setup.
I also recirculate during the entire mashing period. I have never had
this happen with any other types of grain. I'm just wondering if anyone
else has had this occur? Thanks for any input into this mystery of the
foam.
David
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4348, 09/15/03
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