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HOMEBREW Digest #4380
HOMEBREW Digest #4380 Wed 22 October 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: tempering malt (petr.otahal)
Re: Old thread on mead ("Mark Tumarkin")
More Spent Grain Uses (Jonathan Royce)
Carpet Stains (beer related) (Jonathan Royce)
Starter wort shelf life (David Harsh)
Re: Old thread on mead (Jeff Renner)
advice for touring Belgian breweries? ("larry maxwell")
Re: tempering malt (Jeff Renner)
Re: Immersion Chiller Efficiency (Jeff Renner)
Immersions and other cool things ("Dr. Pivo")
making mead quickly (ensmingr)
Lookout California Here I come! ("Philip J Wilcox")
re:Immersion Chiller (" Holistic Hound")
Quick mead ("Dave Burley")
Re: Nutrition/Recipes for Spent Grains (David Radwin)
Questions on rauchbiers (Paul Shick)
re: Degassing SG readings ("Chad Stevens")
Music City Brewers Spirit of Homebrewing deadline extention (johncampbell)
Whoops! (making mead quickly) (ensmingr)
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 17:31:02 +1000 (EST)
From: petr.otahal at aardvark.net.au
Subject: Re: tempering malt
>From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
>
>Not only did it result in better milling, there was less dust.
>
>Since I never (knock on wood) have stuck mashes, I can't say that
>this improved runoff. My efficiency was a bit higher than usual,
>however.
Hi Jeff,
I have used this method many times before, generally I add around 10-15mL
cold water per kilo of grain (thats somewhere around 1/4oz water per lb of
grain if my math is correct), stir thoroughly, and rest for 15-20min.
I don't use this method regularly anymore because it can jam my mill, but
I do use it to crush the barley malt for my wheat beers.
I found as you did Jeff, that my husks came out very intact, broken into
no more than two pieces, and less dust was created during milling. I
couldn't come to a conclusion as to whether or not it improved my
efficiency.
>This toughens the husk a bit, keeping
>it from breaking into as many pieces as it might otherwise.
I expect that it doesn't toughen the husk but actually makes it softer and
more pliable, so it is less inclined to crack into many pieces while it is
squashed between the rollers.
Cheers
Petr Otahal
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 06:47:27 -0400
From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Old thread on mead
Welcome back, Kirk.
you asked about
> making a drinkable mead that was ready in a matter of
> months instead of years. I can't remember who wrote it, or the
> specific information, but the gist of it was to use an ale
> yeast, use PLENTY of yeast nutrients, wait until bottling to add
> acid, etc. If anybody has the specifics of this topic, please
> let me know.
You've got the basics there. I'd add a couple of things to the mix. Most
importantly, control your fermentation temps. Many people make mead at ambient
room temps. While mead is more forgiving than beer in this respect, you'll end
up with a much cleaner mead (and one drinkable more quickly) if you keep the
temps in the mid-60s. As you mention, nutrients are also key. With this in
mind, you might consider adding some fruit juice. This will provide a lot more
nutrients without requiring as long a settling/clearing time as whole fruit.
If you don't want to make a melomel (fruit mead), consider adding a small
amount of DME, 1/2 cup or so in a 5 gal batch. This will make the yeast happy
without significantly affecting flavor. Also, a lower gravity mead will
ferment more quickly & cleanly. Use something less than a gal of honey for a 5
gal batch. Serving the mead carbonated, rather than still, can also help
improve a young mead's drinkability. Oxygenate well before pitching, but be
very careful when racking or bottling .... mead is very susceptible to
oxidation (though sometimes the effects can add to complexity, though this
usually requires aging).
All that said, while it's entirely possible to make a mead that is quite
drinkable at several months; more time will usually improve it significantly.
At the very least, put a six-pack or so aside and sample over time to see the
effects of aging. It can make a huge difference...... though you'll be
incredibly sad when the last bottle of aged mead is gone. So start another
batch and let it begin aging. Mead is extremely simple to make - though, like
many things, making a truly great one isn't so easy.
good luck,
Mark Tumarkin
Hogtown Brewers
Gainesville, FL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 05:09:27 -0700
From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com>
Subject: More Spent Grain Uses
Steve Smith asked about spent grain uses. I recently also have been on a quest
to use mine for more productive things than compost. I made bread one time, but
I found that a yeast bread on HB day makes for a LONG day. Last time I made dog
biscuits, but I don't have a dog so they were just gifts for coworkers &
friends (with dogs). However, in making the doggie treats, I realized that
spent grains must be perfect for making granola bars, so that's on the schedule
for next time. There are a lot of granola bar recipes on the internet and I
don't think they'll be too difficult to adapt to spent grains. Just do a google
search. I most certainly will post back here if I'm successful with mine.
Anyone else?
Jonathan
Woodbury Brewing Co.
www.woodburybrewingco.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 05:16:57 -0700
From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com>
Subject: Carpet Stains (beer related)
Sunday night I was labeling bottles while watching the game on TV and with all
of the distractions I managed to knock a 12-pack from a TV tray and break two
full bottles of pale ale on our living room carpet. Now there is a nice brown
stain in the middle of our tan berber carpet and I am having some difficulty
getting it out. Tried so far:
- Tons of paper towels, followed by wet/dry shop-vac'ing, followed by Resolve,
followed by rubbing with warm water-soaked towels, followed by more vac'ing.
Stain looked like it was gone, but upon drying it was obviously still there
next AM.
- Rented a Rug Doctor and used their Spot Remover (not Pet Stain remover).
Cleaned the area of the stain as well as the rest of the carpet (HEY, I paid
for the thing for 24 hours anyway!) Again, stain looked like it had vanished,
but by the next AM it was back.
I am starting to worry that the pad is full of beer and what is happening is
that it is wicking back into the carpet. Tonight I am going to try Oxyclean and
hopefully avoid overwetting so that I can test my wicking theory.
Anyone have any other tips?
This is most inopportune for me as we are moving and our house is on the
market. The stain isn't smack-you-in-the-face obvious, but it is certainly
noticeable to someone who is looking closely.
Thanks in advance,
Jonathan
Woodbury Brewing Co.
www.woodburybrewingco.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:31:15 -0400
From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net>
Subject: Starter wort shelf life
> From: Steve Funk <steve at hheco.com>
>
> Does anyone have a rough idea of how long canned DME/LME based wort
> will
> remain good for growing yeast starters? Are there any deleterious
> effects to using old starter wort? If so, how old? Is there special
> storage criteria? The reason for asking is that I have several quarts
> of starter wort that I canned a couple of years ago but it looks as if
> some things have precipitated and I'm wondering if this is a problem.
In order: Forever, No, N/A, 50-70 F
If (and this a big one) you properly pressure canned it- it will last
forever, or at least be sterile until you open it as long as a vacuum
remains on the jar. I think its at the Pasteur Institute where they
have some of Louis' swan neck flasks that remain uninnoculated after a
couple hundred years - and they are open to the atmosphere.
After pressure canning, I routinely see more precipitate in the jars.
I don't worry about it, I just decant the starter into another jar when
I use it. And no, my beer isn't ruined. I've always assumed that the
combination of pressure and temperature causes an additional hot break.
I once asked Chris White about the need for pressure canning and the
danger of botulism in starters. He was unaware if anyone had ever
successfully gotten it to grow in wort, but clearly wasn't willing to
tell me there was no danger.
The last time I saw it published, the USDA "limit" for something being
considered an acid food was maximum pH 4.6 (that may have been updated
in recent years and you may wish to check as I'm not responsible for
anything that happens to you)
I also once read that boiling at 10 minutes at low altitudes will
destroy the botulism toxin. So as a starter, it theoretically wouldn't
matter - but I haven't been willing to test that one either.
It is recommended that canned food be stored between 50 and 70 F, but
I've never figured out the reason for those limits.
If you want more information, the USDA is a good place to start; from a
commercial standpoint the "Ball BlueBook" is a fairly comprehensive
guide to home canning. Although older versions are more technically
oriented, their standards may not be current. I have a new version
that doesn't even mention half gallon jars and just gives you recipes
w/out explanation...
Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League
Cincinnati, OH
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:38:04 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Old thread on mead
Kirk Harralson <kirk78h at yahoo.com> stumbles out of the woods and writes:
>I just re-subscribed to the HBD after a very long absence (5+years).
>I'm amazed at some of the old names still kicking the brewing
>knowledge around!
I'm no doubt one of those old names. Welcome back to the fold.
>I know there was a thread many years ago regarding tips on making a
>drinkable mead that was ready in a matter of months instead of
>years. I can't remember who wrote it, or the specific information,
>but the gist of it was to use an ale yeast, use PLENTY of yeast
>nutrients, wait until bottling to add acid, etc.
I'm not a regular mead maker, but I have been following this since
Charlie P wrote in Zymurgy in the early 80's about his trip to a New
Zealand meadery. He reported that they had a secret method of
producing fine meads quickly. Over the years it became apparent that
the trick is to keep the pH of the fermenting mead from dropping too
low (becoming too acidic).
A solution of honey and water (called must - a wine making term) has
virtually no buffering capacity, so acidic yeast fermentation
byproducts drop the pH quickly to a point where the yeast is
debilitated and it ferments very slowly. It is necessary to monitor
pH and add calcium carbonate (CaCO3) as needed to keep the pH in a
desirable range. Then if you do need to adjust the acidity, you do
it after it's finished. Nutrients also are important.
HBDer Ken Schramm's new book, The Compleat Meadmaker, promises to be
the standard for meadmakers. I'm sure it has details, but I can't
check as I've loaned out my autographed copy. You might also want to
join Mead Lover's Digest. Send a subscribe message to
<mead-request at talisman.com> (replace the @ that the HBD bot has taken
out).
Cheers
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:02:36 -0400
From: "larry maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net>
Subject: advice for touring Belgian breweries?
I have a trip planned to Brussels in late January, and I
have about three or four days during which I would like
to experience whatever I can in the way of brewery/
monastery tours or other any beer-related places or events.
I don't know where to look to find out what is where,
whether tours are offered or can be negotiated, how to
get there, etc.
(1) Have any of you done such a mini-tour? If so, I
would appreciate all the recommendations and advice
you can give me.
(2) Are there any books or web sites with Belgian
beer-related travel advice that might have just such a
tour route outlined?
A search of the HBD archives turned up lots of relevant
posts and mentions of individual brewery tours, but I
didn't see anything that outlined exactly what route one
could take to hit several places over the course of a few
days. (I will not have a car ... fortunately :-)
Larry Maxwell
Atlanta, GA
larrymax at bellsouth.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:53:36 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: tempering malt
Petr Otahal wrote:
>I have used this method many times before, generally I add around
>10-15mL cold water per kilo of grain (thats somewhere around 1/4oz
>water per lb of grain if my math is correct), stir thoroughly, and
>rest for 15-20min.
Good to hear from you, Petr. You have done the math correctly, or
maths, as you all down under probably say. I used a bit more: 3-4
oz. for 11 lbs, or ~18-24 ml/kg.
[Rant mode on] Too bad you even have to do the calculations. If only
the US had gone through with the metrication that it started with the
1975 Metric Conversion Act. Even though it was started under a
conservative president (Ford), it was jerked to a halt by an even
more conservative one (Regan). Today the whole word uses metric
except the US and our buddies Liberia and Burma. See
http://www.metric4us.com/. [Rant mode off]
>I couldn't come to a conclusion as to whether or not it improved my
>efficiency.
I wouldn't really want to claim this either without actually testing
it, which I don't care to do. It seemed a bit higher than usual, but
by very little, and it could very well have been due to other
factors, such as the fact that I mashed for 90 minutes as opposed to
my usual 60 minutes. I ran out to get more propane and didn't leave
until the mash was more than half over.
I don't know whether I will continue to do this or not since I had
trouble with the malt feeding at the end of the second pass, which
was a pain, but it was a remarkable result in appearance, if nothing
else.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 10:06:11 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Immersion Chiller Efficiency
A few years back, Dan McConnell and Ken Schramm wrote two articles
for Zymurgy* on counter-flow and immersion wort chillers. They and a
few other AABG members (including me) "road" tested a number of
chillers (well, actually, it was a driveway test - my driveway; my
well water is 48-53F (9-12C) depending on the season).
Among the conclusions reached and quantified was that agitating
greatly speeded up chilling with immersion chillers.
One way of accomplishing this, which I use, is to recirculate the
cooling wort with a pump. This also helps clarify the wort by
filtering it through the bed of hops on the false bottom. Once the
temperature reaches 80F or so (~27C) I begin aerating to oxygenate
the wort. I do this by cracking open the hose fitting on the kettle
outlet. This allows the pump to pull a stream of bubbles. The pump
impeller beats the bubbles to a very small size, increasing the
surface area and, presumably, the absorption of O2. I continue this
until I reach the desired temperature and also when I pump the wort
to the fermenter. Sometimes I add the well suspended yeast to the
cooling wort in the kettle. No, the hops don't filter out the yeast,
as long as there are no lumps.
BTW, the big winner on counterflow speed tests was the Heart chiller,
which is no doubt why they have posted the counterflow article at
http://www.heartshomebrew.com/home_brew_beer.cgi?cart_id=&page=Zymurgy_
Evaluating_Wort_Chillers.html. (cut and paste the divided URL)
It kicked butt. Rumor is that it is the oil cooler from a semi. It
is compact and really efficient.
There are advantages to both kinds of chillers. I prefer an
immersion chiller because it leaves both hot and cold break behind in
the kettle on the hop filter bed.
Jeff
*SPRING 1996 (VOL. 19, NO.1) "From Hot to Cold: A Cool Brew Cruise:
A Counterflow Wort Chiller Road Test" Daniel S. McConnell Ph.D. and
Kenneth D.
Schramm
FALL 1996 (VOL. 19, NO.3) "Cool Coils - Immersion Chiller Road Test"
Daniel S. McConnell, Ph.D., and Kenneth D. Schramm
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 16:40:44 +0200
From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se>
Subject: Immersions and other cool things
Eric Ahrent has a very good memory:
> Several years (1999 or so?)back Doc Pivo posted about a
> setup he had that caused the chiller to "jump" (using
> water hammer) every so often. For the life of me I
> can't remember the mechanism, but it addressed this
> very issue.
>
Indeed it did. Pretty simple really. I'm not the first to notice that
"shaking the chiller" speeds cooling times, nor the first to notice that
turning on and off the faucet causes the immersion coils to "jump" with
the pressure change... I just wanted to automate it.
I took a "check valve" (or "foot valve"; or "safety valve", or any
other spring loaded valve will do... the same principle as the safety
vavle atop the cornie keg, only bigger but less spring action), and put
it in line with an expansion chamber filled with air. The water
pressure compressed the air until the pressure was enough to compress
the spring, whoosh went the water, and then the spring closed the valve
and the coil "jumped". A little playing with flow rates and spring
strengths, and you can get a regular little "choo-choo train" that will
amuse a simpleton like myself.
It's just sort of using the "stick-slip" principle instead of getting
used by it.
That little toy is now doing service in "the Museum of Archaic Brewing
Instruments".... which is to say - an unknown location in one of the
barns.
I found a better way. A counter flow AND an immersion. Instead of
moving the coil you move the wort. As you start pulling through the
counter flow, you are moving wort past the immersion. It's sort of a "1
plus 1 is equal to 4" solution. Where the combination works far better
than you would expect from each one by itself.
Dr. Pivo
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 12:18:28 -0400
From: ensmingr <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: making mead quickly
Numerous commercial mead makers treat their must (unfermented honey and
water) with an ultrafiltration system (~0.1 micron) and then add yeast
for fermentation. Ultrafiltration removes high MW proteins and suspended
contaminants; boiling/heating is unnecessary. Fermentation is complete
in about two weeks at which time the meads are clear, smooth, and ready
to drink. Unfortunately, ultrafiltration systems are prohibitively
expensive for home mead-makers.
By contrast, my own meads take a year or more to develop that amount of
smoothness. Is a one month old batch of ultrafiltered mead better than a
batch that is unfiltered but aged instead? Not sure. But if I were a
commercial mead maker, I would definitely use ultrafltration.
Some key references on mead ultrafiltration:
*Kime, R.W. et al. 1991. An Improved Method of Mead Production. American
Bee Journal 6: 394.
*Kime, R.W. et al. 1991. Ultrafiltration of Honey for Mead Production.
American Bee Journal 8: 517.
Cheerio!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
http://www.hbd/ensmingr
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 12:30:47 -0400
From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com>
Subject: Lookout California Here I come!
Suds up, Dudes, (and Dudettes)
I'll be taking the newest brewer in the family for short tour of California
the first week of November. I'll be flying into LAX, Staying in Plya Del
Ray and Bera to visit the sisters before heading to Modesto to introduce
the baby to her Great-Grandma. So if you know of
brewpubs/breweries/beerbars in these area's I have built in babysitters and
would love to swap suds with a few West Coast HBD'ers! Email me and we'll
swap Cell phone numbers as plans firm up.
Phil Wilcox
Poison Frog Home Brewery
Bumblefrog Meadery
Leaping Frog Winery
Warden - Prison City Brewers
AABG, AHA, BJCP, CAP, etc. and so on ...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:58:36 -0700
From: " Holistic Hound" <david at holistic-hound.ca>
Subject: re:Immersion Chiller
David Townsend writes:
>In HBD 4378, with reference to having to continuously move an immersion
>chiller up and down to maintain cooling efficiency, Pete Calinski asks:
"To
>me it means the chiller should be moving almost constantly. Anybody
ever
>experience this or tried continuous movement?"
>For some time, I have been using a counterflow chiller. But during my
>"immersion chiller days", I noted the same thing, and I regularly moved
the
>chiller up and down the whole time it was in use. I tried just parking
the
>thing near the top of the liquid and letting convection do the work,
but
>that was no where near as effective as keeping it moving.
In essence, a counter flow chiller is an immersion chiller that is
constantly moving. The theory being that the larger the temperature
difference between the cooling medium and the liquid being cooled, the
greater the rate of heat transfer.
What happens with an immersion chiller when it is stationary,the cooling
process only takes place where the liquid to be cooled physically
touches the chiller. The thin film of liquid surrounding the chiller
transmits some of the heat to the cooler but acts more as an insulator;
slowing down the rate of heat transfer.
If the chiller is constantly moving (as the cooling water is constantly
moving in a counterflow chiller) this film of cooled liquid isn't able
to insulate the chiller. Because the chiller is moving, a maximum heat
difference is maintained; therefore, the speed at which the heat is
transferred stays high as well. Same goes for the people who stir as
opposed to moving the chiller up and down.
David Gates
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:01:19 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net>
Subject: Quick mead
Brewsters:
Kirk rejoins us ( welcome back) and asks how to make quick mead or at least to
avoid the year(s) long wait typical of pure honey meads to finish fermenting.
Kirk, the basic problem with mead is that honey has no buffers in it ( unlike
wort and fruit musts). This causes the pH to drop rapidly during the
fermentation and it quickly drops below the pH where yeast enzymes can operate
easily.
Solution one - make meads which contain fruit or wort
Solution two - Add calcium carbonate 1 tsp at a time per 5 gallons to keep the
pH in the 4s region until the fermentation is finished. Often a teaspoon or
two is sufficient.
This will allow mead to ferment in a normal time of a week or two ( depending
on the yeasts you use, the OG, temperature, etc.) and produce a sounder
product consistently.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 11:13:58 -0700
From: David Radwin <dradwin at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Nutrition/Recipes for Spent Grains
> From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith at in-tch.com>
> Second, if there can be a
> place in the diet for it, are there other kinds of food recipes, besides
> bread, that utilize spent grains?
I can't speak to the nutritive value, but my dogs like this recipe for
dog biscuits:
http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/3775.html#3775-7
I've found that you don't have to do the second (long) bake immediately
after the first bake--you can wait a day or split it up over two days.
Also, apparently you can make spent grain into breakfast cereal. I
haven't tried this personally:
http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1562.html#1562-16
- --
David Radwin
This email account forwards to trash. Reply to
news at removethis.davidradwin.com.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:53:09 -0400
From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu>
Subject: Questions on rauchbiers
Hi all,
I'm about to start a run of lagers, and I'm
planning to make a rauchbier for one of them, since
I've run across some nice Bamberg-type smoked malt.
Since I use an immersion chiller and leave most of
the break and trub in the kettle, I generally rack
one batch to a secondary and put the new batch right
onto the primary yeast cake. For lagers, I try to
get about three brews out of the yeast this way, usually
increasing the gravity with each batch.
I'm planning to do a run of a helles, a Vienna,
a rauchbier and a bock, probably in that order. Am I
likely to have some smoky flavor carry over to a later
batch from the rauchbier yeast? If this seems likely,
I'll just grow up some more yeast separately for the bock,
but I thought I'd first ask the group if anyone has tried
this.
While I'm planning the rauchbier, I'm curious about
how much smoked malt people have used in their rauchbiers.
Looking at some recipes, it seems to vary from as little as
10% to as much as 100% of the grist. The Weyermann smoked
malt I've got is a bit old, so I plan to use a fair bit,
but I'm leery of going much over 50% of the grist, with the
rest being Vienna and Munich malts, with a touch of Caramunich.
I'd welcome any feedback from anyone who's played with the style.
And yes, before anyone suggests it, I _am_ ordering the Daniels
and Larson AHA Styles book.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Paul Shick
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 13:27:34 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: re: Degassing SG readings
A week or two ago someone was pondering degassing methods. In his attempt
to degas, he realized he had boiled off the alcohol when he raised the temp
to 180. I just read this little blurb in Noonan's "New Brewing Lager Beer."
Thought you might like to see it:
Page 186.
"Real and Apparent Attenuation:
...The real attenuation can be determined. First, a volume of beer is
measured at the temperature the brewer's hydrometer is calibrated to,
usually 60 or 68 degrees F, and is decarbonated, usually by membrane
filtration. This volume of beer is raised to a temperature of 173 degrees F
or slightly higher and roused for 30 to 60 minutes to drive off the alcohol.
The sample is cooled to 60 degrees F and topped-up to its original volume
with distilled water. The volume of water required to replace the lost
volume of beer, divided by the original volume, is equal to the percent
alcohol by volume of the beer. The hydrometer reading of the dealcoholized
sample, after topping-up, accurately reflects the real extract content of
the beer. The real attenuation is measured by subtracting this reading from
the original OG of the wort."
Looks like you stumbled into the right path after all.
Hope this helps,
Chad Stevens
San Diego
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 15:46:54 -0500
From: johncampbell at comcast.net
Subject: Music City Brewers Spirit of Homebrewing deadline extention
We received only one entry for this special category before the dead line
for the 8th Annual Music City Brew Off. Several brewers and judges have
emailed expressing a desire to bring late entries. Late entries will be
accepted for this category only until the day of show this Saturday October
25th at 8am. If you have any questions, please contact me.
Cyserman
http://musiccitybrewers.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 19:42:29 -0400
From: ensmingr <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Whoops! (making mead quickly)
In the previous post, I meant to say that commercial ultrafiltration of
mead must uses a 0.01 to 0.1 micron (not ~0.1 micron) filter, and
removes large and medium-sized proteins and other molecules.
Cheerio!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
http://hbd.org/ensmingr
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4380, 10/22/03
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