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HOMEBREW Digest #4312
HOMEBREW Digest #4312 Fri 01 August 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
Plastic fermenters (Michael)
Top Twelve in US Homebrewing (Jeremy Bergsman)
Re: Mead problems ("Kevin Morgan")
Top in Homebrewing (darrell.leavitt)
Re: my wife is pregnant (Jeff Renner)
Re: Mead Problems and Questions (mjkid)
Non beer, but worth considering? ("Paul Campbell")
Re: Checklists ("Pete Calinski")
Top 12 in US Homebrewing (Randy Ricchi)
Andeker clone? ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
starters and moose drool (Randy Ricchi)
Tennesse mead ("Dave Burley")
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:25:16 -0500
From: Michael <grice@binc.net>
Subject: Plastic fermenters
Bill Tobler wrote:
>Christian Layke is looking for a bigger and better way to ferment 20
>gallons of hooch in his fridge using plastic containers that are readily
>available.
>I haven't tried this myself, but I know people do this and have had
>good success. You could buy a 25 or 30 gallon plastic garbage can from
>WallyWorld, line it with a plastic liner like the one in the link below,
>and just cover the fermenter with the lid. You won't be able to monitor
>the ferment with an airlock, but that's no big deal.
[...]
If you get food-grade plastic, I wouldn't bother with the liner.
Winemakers sometimes use a garbage can for primary fermentation. I have
done that myself, in fact. I certainly didn't have any off flavors from
the plastic. Since the pH of beer is typically less than that of wine, I
would expect it to be even less of a problem.
Someone else will have to tell you what sort of plastic is food grade.
It *may* be HDPE, but I'm suffering from acronym overload.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:34:05 -0400
From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremy@bergsman.org>
Subject: Top Twelve in US Homebrewing
Louis, this is a great topic. I think, at least for me, that the HBD is
about as important as it gets. Having run some tiny mailing lists I can
only begin to imagine the work that Pat and Karl put into the HBD. I would
like to add Rob Gardner, the original HBD janitor, to this list. Can we
subtract the AHA for what they did to it?
Also, just about anything you can say about Byron Burch can be said about Al
Korzonis (I'm sure I spelled that wrong). Although quiet here lately, for
about a decade was one of the most prolific and reliable sources of info
here on the HBD. He is a master judge, worked behind the scenes at the
BJCP, owned a homebrew store, wrote brewing articles and a great book....
- --
Jeremy Bergsman
jeremy@bergsman.org
http://www.bergsman.org/jeremy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:44:37 -0400
From: "Kevin Morgan" <kevin.morgan2@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Mead problems
From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Mead Problems and Questions
About a week ago (July 20) I finally got around to
starting a batch of mead and I'm having some possible
problems that I thought I'd throw out to the experts.
I used 13 pounds of mixed honey (clover, mesquite
etc), 1 ounce of yeast nutrient, 1 Tablespoon acid
blend, 1 Teaspoon gypsum and added a starter made with
honey and boiled water to which I pitched 2 packets of
Red Star champagne yeast. Volume is 5 gallons. Initial
specific gravity was 1.076.
Fermentation was always slow and stopped about 4 days
ago. When I checked the specific gravity, it was
1.042, so I pitched another two packets of yeast,
along with another tablespoon of yeast nutrient.
Still no activity that I can see.
- --Have you checked the pH, sounds like it may have fallen to far
- --and that can cause the fermentation to stick. Also, what kind of
- --yeast nutrient did you use, and did you oxygenate/aerate at the
- --beginning of the fermentation?
I realize that mead takes much longer (maybe 6
months?) to clear and finish, but this seems too high
a final specific gravity to me.
- --You are correct, with an OG of 1.076 and Champagne yeast
- --the gravity should drop to <1.000 within a couple of weeks
Suggestions? Should I oxygenate it to rouse the yeast
or just rack to a secondary carboy and forget it for a
few months? Is that enough yeast nutrient?
- --I would oxygenate it and see what happens, check the pH and correct
- --it if necessary
Denis in Beechgrove, Tennessee where moonshine is the
native product, but I'm only brewing, honestly, officer!
- --Kevin, brewing and mazing in South Jersey
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: darrell.leavitt@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Top in Homebrewing
I would respectfully like to add:
George DePiro
Jeff Renner
Steve Alexander
Peter Garofalo
Mike Mc Donnough
...but why are we doing this? Perhaps it results in invidious comparrisons...
God bless all home brewers.
me too...
..Darrell
and many, many more...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:20:00 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: my wife is pregnant
MATTHEW HAHN <mchahn@earthlink.net> wrote:
>OLD BRITISH BEERS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM has a recipe for Younger's
>Majority Ale, brewed for just this purpose.
>
>For 1 gal.:
Just a clarification, this is for each *imperial* gallon, which is
1.25 US gallon.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:26:40 -0400
From: mjkid@rochester.rr.com
Subject: Re: Mead Problems and Questions
On 31 Jul 2003 at 18:29, Denis Bekaert <Denis-
B@rocketmail.com> wrote:
> I used 13 pounds of mixed honey (clover, mesquite
> etc), 1 ounce of yeast nutrient, 1 Tablespoon acid
> blend, 1 Teaspoon gypsum and added a starter made with
> honey and boiled water to which I pitched 2 packets of
> Red Star champagne yeast. Volume is 5 gallons. Initial
> specific gravity was 1.076.
Sounds like you didn't get the honey mixed in very well. 13 lbs of
honey in 5 gallons should be close to 1.100. It will vary with the type
of honey, but 1.076 seems low.
Adding acid blend at the beginning of a mead fermentation can
cause problems. Honey is poorly buffered, which means that the pH
will drop quite rapidly during fermentation. Also, honey is acidic to
start with, with the pH varying with the type of honey, so adding acid
blend compounds the problem. I don't get the gypsum addition at
all.
I think the legend of traditional meads taking months to ferment was
brought about by recipes calling for acid additions at the beginning
the fermentation. Save the acid blend for bottling time, if needed.
My traditionals typically finish fermenting in three to four weeks.
Also, your started didn't use any nutrients, which may have
hindered more than it helped your yeast. I just rehydrate according
to the package directions and it always works for me.
> Fermentation was always slow and stopped about 4 days
> ago. When I checked the specific gravity, it was
> 1.042, so I pitched another two packets of yeast,
> along with another tablespoon of yeast nutrient.
> Still no activity that I can see.
If you have access to a pH meter, try checking the pH. If it's below
about 3.5, your yeast may be suffering. Adding some calcium
carbonate will raise the pH into a more hospitable range for the
yeast and may restart the fermentation. Dissolve a 1/2 teaspoon in
some distilled water and add it to the mead. It doesn't really
dissolve well in water, but it will be ok in the mead. You may have to
do this a couple times to get it restarted.
>
> I realize that mead takes much longer (maybe 6
> months?) to clear and finish, but this seems too high
> a final specific gravity to me.
Your OG was very likely much higher than you measured, so it's not
as bad as you think. You're at about 58% attenuation, in 10 days
which isn't really too bad. I think if you get the pH up around 4 or so,
it should perk up. You might try some energizer also.
>
> Suggestions? Should I oxygenate it to rouse the yeast
> or just rack to a secondary carboy and forget it for a
> few months? Is that enough yeast nutrient?
I wouldn't oxyengenate it, that would just cause off flavors. Get the
pH under control and it should be fine.
FWIW, here is the recipe for my latest mead:
12 lbs Spotted Knapweed honey
1.5 tsp Wyeast yeast nutrient
1.5 tsp yeast energizer
water to make 5 gallons
2 packages Lalvin D47, rehydrated
Dissolve honey in warm water, top with cool water to 5 gallons.
Pitch yeast.
OG: 1.094
FG: .998
I'll be racking this onto 11 lbs of sour cherries (frozen and pitted) for
Mead Day this Saturday, along with a couple more pounds of
honey.
Hope this helps,
Mike Kidulich
[338.5, 65.2] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 02:05:39 +0100
From: "Paul Campbell" <paulrcampbell@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Non beer, but worth considering?
Hi all,
Apologies for non-beer content, but I drank some today, promise (Belgian BTW).
Last recipe was pale ale for a complete newbie who is now hooked!
Anyhow...
"We" have a team at United Devices (AKA Grid) which supports a cure
for cancer search.
We have all lost many so why not consider it? Join your fellow HBDrs!
http://www.grid.org/services/teams/team.htm
?id=FA64472E-9373-401F-800F-5101476415FA
You can either cut and paste the above to put it back together, or
use the info below. I don't like posting full links as i don't trust them
myself!!! Many thanks to those who have kept up the good work,
I myself went awol for a bit, sorry..................
Info: The team name is HBD, the website is www.grid.org
I am not in any way affilliated etc. etc.
Ob On-topic: http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/
Paul Campbell.
Cheers!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:19:37 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Checklists
I make what I call a "Batch Sheet" for every brew session. It starts with
how much water to "declorinate" and lists every step. I also include blank
spaces for readings like OG and an area for notes. Once you make one, the
rest are just a simple cut and paste followed by some edits.
Here is a typical sample:
5/28/2002 Big Boot #2
At Time:______________ Water Meter:______________ Electric
Meter:_____________
Set out 12 Gal Water overnight. This is for mash and sparge.
White Labs WL008 from Pete's Pale Ale #11
Add salts as above
Bring Grains to room temperature overnight.
Heat 3.7 gal. + dead space in mash tun to 172F
Place grains in Mash Tun (155F) and get the lid on.
Measure pH ___________________
Bring to ph=5.7 with ~ 12.4 ml Lactic Acid (Use Dropper)
Maintain Mash at 155F for 90 Min.
Heat remaining water (4.5 Gal.) to 190F
Test for conversion. Results Here_____________________
Bring mash to 170F
Recirculate Until Clear.
Sparge until gravity gets to 1.010 (0.985 at 170F)
Boil to get hot break
Bring to 6 gal.
Add 3.0 Oz Cascades
Start 90 Min. Timer
Put immersion chiller in wort
At 45 Min to go add 1 oz Cascades
At 31 min. to go, add 1 oz hops in bag.
Stop heat and bring to 5.5 gal.
Let sit for 30 minutes
Immersion Chill to 68F.
Swirl for 3 Min. (Just a guess) and allow to settle for 20 Min.
Rack to plastic over yeast cake leaving Trub behind (Aireate during Racking)
Read OG. Enter Here__________
When Bubbles stop, Rack to secondary
When done, add 0.5 oz cascades as Dry Hop.
Then after 1 day, bottle with 4.25 oz CS.
At Time:______________ Water Meter:______________ Electric
Meter:_____________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:40:17 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Top 12 in US Homebrewing
Louis Bonham suggested 10 people for the top 12 in promoting homebrewing.
I'm familiar with most but not all of the names, and they all sound like
good candidates.
I would think Dave Line may be a serious candidate, 'though he was and
Englishman. No doubt he got a lot of people in the U.S. started with his
"Big Book of Brewing". It's an antique now, and from today's perspective
has a lot of dubious information, but back when it came out there was VERY
little info on homebrewing and he filled an important void.
I'd also like to nominate my favorite Homebrewing author, Dave Miller,
author of The Complete guide to Homebrewing, among others. After reading
Dave's book I KNEW I could brew a decent beer. His clear, organized
explanation of process, ingredients, sanitation, etc. continues to be an
inspiration to me.
Finally, let's not forget Greg Noonan, who gave us the first very detailed
look at the decoction mashing regimen in his "Brewing Lager Beer", a
well-known classic.
DOH! That makes 13 nominees. Oh well, nothing wrong with a baker's dozen.
Randy Ricchi
Hancock, MI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:01:33 -0400
From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk@esper.com>
Subject: Andeker clone?
Pardon me if this has been asked recently...
...but a member of our homebrew club wants to clone Andeker. Its our
understanding that this beer was the Pabst "premium" lager several years
ago. I think he searched the archives but didn't find anything on it. I
thought I'd post this to the group.
A gentleman challenged him to clone it and we're trying to get a feel for
what it was like or how it was made.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Tom Karnowski
Knoxville TN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:00:48 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: starters and moose drool
Timothy recounts some advice he read which states:
>Then, if I read into some answers correctly, at high
>krausen I should pour off almost all of the liquid and pitch the trub
from the
>starter into the porter wort. Is this the right method for a starter? Any
help
>is appreciated
First, the remains wouldn't be considered trub, but settled yeast. Trub is
the coagulated proteins from hot and cold break.
More importantly, if the starter has hit high kraeusen and you're ready to
use it, you should pitch everything. The best yeast is the stuff still in
suspension in the liquid at this point. If you decided you couldn't brew
now and had to wait a week or so, then you would want to decant the
supernatant because it would now contain a significant amount of alcohol,
which, if pitched in the beer and then aerated, could cause oxidation
problems. If you find yourself in this situation, my recommendation would
be to add a pint or quart of wort to the remaining yeast, aerate well, and
then pitch everything the next day into your batch.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:19:06 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: Tennesse mead
Brewsters:
Denis is making some mead instead of moonshine and has problem with what
appears to be a stuck fermentation.
Probably the pH is too low. The lack of sufficient buffers ( unlike wort or
fruit) in the honey causes the pH to fall outside the enzymically active
region. Bring it back up in the pH 4 region with calcium carbonate. Continue
this until the fermentation is finished as evidenced by Clinitest.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4312, 08/01/03
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