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HOMEBREW Digest #4310
HOMEBREW Digest #4310 Wed 30 July 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: Nucleation site pilsner glass ("tOM Trottier")
my wife is pregnant!!!!! ("jim")
free mash tun act (=?iso-8859-1?q?Alex=20Lawton?=)
unfermenting wort ("Dave Burley")
1st steps in batch sparging (Michael Fross)
Re: First All-Grain Batch ("Jerry Zeidler")
Stupid Kegger Trick (Paul Kensler)
Re: First All Grain Batch (Christopher Swingley)
Re: Home Grain Roasting with Popper (Jeff Renner)
Re: First All Grain Batch (Jeff Renner)
Storing Star San ("Harlan Nilsen")
RE: First All Grain Batch (Brenden Portolese)
Re: Home Grain Roasting with Popper (FLJohnson)
Fermenting large volumes (relatively speaking) ("Christian Layke")
Rennerian, Popcorn, Herbs (Alexandre Enkerli)
Rennerian calculator (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
Heavy drinking at Varsity ("Lee and Ant Hayes")
Home Grain Roasting with Popper (Road Frog)
Amarit Lager ("National Midnight Star Brewery")
Moose Drool ("National Midnight Star Brewery")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:18:39 -0400
From: "tOM Trottier" <Tom@Abacurial.com>
Subject: Re: Nucleation site pilsner glass
Of course, what I want is the inverted cone type pilsner glasses with the
flared base - the ones so deep and narrow that wielding a glass cutter at
the very bottom would be very difficult.
Anybody know of any nucleated narrow pilsner glasses?
Or narrow long diamond-tipped chisels?
tOM
On Monday, July 28, 2003 at 17:51
Fred Johnson <FLJohnson@portbridge.com> wrote:
> Of course! Why didn't I think of that. :-)
>
> Thanks. Tom.
>
> Fred
>
> On Monday, July 28, 2003, at 09:58 AM, tOM Trottier wrote:
>
> > Apparently you can just make your own nucleation sites in any glass,
> > e.g. by scratching with a glass cutter.
> >
> > Then the bubbles come from the bottom for maximum foam.
> >
> > tOM
> >
> > On Monday, July 28, 2003 at 7:20
> > Fred Johnson <FLJohnson@portbridge.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Dear Tom:
> >>
> >> I didn't know such glasses were made, but I, too, would be interested
> >> in purchasing some. I would be grateful if you would post or email
> >> suppliers if you get any responses.
- ---- Quidquid latine dictum sit altum viditur ----
,__@ tOM Trottier +1 613 860-6633 fax:+1-270-596-1042
_-\_<, 758 Albert St.,Ottawa ON Canada K1R 7V8
(*)/'(*) ICQ:57647974 N45.412 W75.714
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a
little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor
safety." -- Benjamin Franklin
I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too
much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.
-Thomas Jefferson 1743-1826)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 03:18:44 -0400
From: "jim" <jimswms@cox.net>
Subject: my wife is pregnant!!!!!
and part of my plan, for years now, was to make something that I can brew
now, bottle after the baby is born and celebrate his/her 18th birthday with
said bottles! Of course, this means high alcohol, and lots of
unfermentables. I'm partial to lots of hops and belgian yeasts, but, am open
to anything. Got any ideas? I can probably mash 35# comfortably with my
system... probably 8 gal. batch or so.
any help would be appreciated,
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:47:11 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Alex=20Lawton?= <a_w_lawton@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: free mash tun act
-S asked
>At some point (when?) the English taxed potential
>alcohol of the wort by a rather obtuse formula.
In 1880 Gladstone introduced the Free Mash Tun Act
which taxed beer proportionally to OG. Beers above
1.060 (I think) had a higher proportional tax rate.
This replaced the Malt tax and taxes on ingredients.
In general this led to Lower OG beers with higher
attenuation.
At present in the UK beer duty is based on % abv. This
policy seems to be aimed at revenue raising rather
than control of binge drinking.
Alex
Winchester, UK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 07:53:35 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: unfermenting wort
Brewsters:
Mel Croll describes his first all grain batch. and asks why he doesn't see any
activity in the air lock.
Mel, perhaps you omitted it in your text but you didn't mention that you put
any yeast in the wort and you ask if you should add dry yeast. What kind of
yeast did you use originally? Was it active?
Sounds to me like you did a good job with your first all grain mash and you
have a fermentable wort, just maybe not active yeast or, more likely, you are
too impatient. Use more yeast the next time.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 07:43:55 -0500
From: Michael Fross <michael@fross.org>
Subject: 1st steps in batch sparging
Hello Mel, et al.
I read your message and thought I would post for other folks starting
out with all grain brewing. I've only been doing it for about a year
and have had very good results. However, I've been using the batch
sparge technique.
I had never heard of batch sparging until I read a note from John
Palmer (http://howtobrew.com/) and became interested. After my first
successful batch I could not believe how easy it was.
I wrote up a step by step worksheet to help me through it. I thought I
would share this with everyone. You can find that worksheet at:
http://fross.org/brewing/BatchSpargeWorksheet.txt
Note: You will probably need to copy it to an editor that supports
work wrapping.
I develop the recipe in promash using a 75% efficiency rating (the
default I believe). I then take these grain numbers and put them in a
spreadsheet to give me the batch sparge amounts. I then take the
spreadsheet results and work put the key numbers in the worksheet. The
worksheet is what I bring with me on brewing day. The spreadsheet is
here:
http://fross.org/brewing/BatchSparge.xls
Note: Just put in your values in the light green areas.
The spreadsheet is a modification of Bob Regent's work which is based
on the work of Ken Schwartz. Here are links to Bob and Ken's pages on
Batch Sparging.
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/files/nbsparge.html
http://www.bayareamashers.org/BatchSparging.htm
If I can answer any questions publicly or privately just let me know.
All grain brewing does produce a much better beer, although I was a
happy extract brewer for some time.
Best regards,
Michael
- --- Original Message ---
>Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 19:04:36 +0000
>From: croll01@comcast.net
>Subject: First All Grain Batch
>
>Hi,
>
>I have been lurking here for some time but this is my first post, so please
>bear with me. I made my first attempt at an all grain batch this past weekend,
>and I think I may have rather botched the job. As of this morning there is
>absolutely no activity in the fermenter. At the risk of making this an overly
>long post I will describe my recipe and process, and perhaps someone here may
>offer some suggestions regarding what I might do to salvage this batch, or next
>time to achieve better results.
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 08:42:33 -0400
From: "Jerry Zeidler" <gjzeidler@suscom.net>
Subject: Re: First All-Grain Batch
Mel Croll wonders why his wort hasn't begun to visibly ferment.
Mel, you need to think about two areas of possible problems: yeast and
starch/sugar conversion during the mash.
Yeast -- I didn't see mention in your post of what kind of yeast you pitched
into your wort. Liquid or dry? How much? Did you use a starter? If you
underpitched, it may take quite some time for the yeast to produce any
discernable activity. Also, what temperature was the wort when you pitched
the yeast? I know you used a wort chiller, but some are more efficient than
others, and if the temperature wasn't optimal, that may cause problems.
Mash Conversion -- Your procedure sounds like it should have produced at
least some fermentables, but we can't know for sure that you had complete
converstion of the starches. I'd highly recommend that you do an iodine test
during your next batch to make sure that your wort has converted from
starches to sugars. For 99 cents, you can buy a bottle of iodine that will
last you for years, so cost shouldn't be an issue. It can't hurt to draw a
couple drops off of the wort now to test with iodine. At least you'd know if
you're dealing with fermentable wort or just a carboy full of starchy
liquid.
Faced with your situation, I'd test the wort and if it is converted to
sugars, I'd get myself some more yeast in a hurry -- even if it's just a
couple packets of dry ale yeast, you'll end up with drinkable beer as
opposed to it being a total loss.
Jerry Zeidler
Williamsport, PA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 05:45:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stupid Kegger Trick
I kegged a batch of bitter last week, but didn't put
it on tap right away because I was cleaning out the
chest freezer that I use for dispensing my kegs. I
put the keg in on Friday night, turned the freezer
back on and figured I'd get back to it in a day or so
for force-carbonation.
I ended up having a really busy weekend, so I didn't
get around to the keg until Sunday night. I hooked up
the CO2 to the plug and turned up the psi, but nothing
happened. Oh, there was a slight sound of increased
pressure on the keg, but not the bubbling I was
expecting. I picked up the keg to shake it, and
instead of the expected sloshing, I heard... nothing.
It was then that I noticed that I had neglected to
put the temperature controller probe back inside the
freezer (I had taken it out when I mopped out the
insides).
Yep, the probe was sitting out in 70F air, and the
controller was set to 40F, so the freezer had been,
well, freezing for two days and the keg was frozen
SOLID. I took it out to thaw and kicked myself (and
promptly put the probe back inside the freezer).
As of Tuesday morning, when I shake the keg it sounds
like a slurpee in there - still not fully thawed! I'm
hoping the expanding freezing beer didn't ruin my keg,
my dip tubes or my carbonation stone - and I hope the
freezing didn't hurt the beer. Most of all, I hope I
never do that again.
Paul Kensler
Gaithersburg, MD
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 06:45:26 -0800
From: Christopher Swingley <cswingle@iarc.uaf.edu>
Subject: Re: First All Grain Batch
Mel,
* croll01@comcast.net <croll01@comcast.net> [2003-Jul-28 11:04 AKDT]:
> The wort was properly cooled when it exited the chiller, so I pitched
> the liquid yeast, covered, and put the fermenter in the old fridge I
> use for temperature control. The controller is set to 60 degrees and
> the thermometer I have inside the fridge reads between 56 and 60,
> appropriate for the swing. The stick-on thermometer on the fermenter
> reads about the same.
Don't give up on it yet. My garage temperatures are normally in this
range and if I don't make a yeast starter in advance, a smack pack will
sometimes take a day or two to get going. If it doesn't, try warming
the fermenter slightly and perhaps agitating it somewhat.
In the future I'd recommend making a starter culture so you've got more
yeast going into the wort, and pitch the yeast at a slighly warmer
temperature (like 70 - 75 F). Once the yeast get going you can reduce
the temperature down to 55 - 60 F.
I had a similar experience with my first cream ale -- the primary
fermentation went great (at 60 F), and six days after pitching I
transferred to the secondary (at 55 F). No fermentation was evident for
five days. Then suddenly the yeast started working again, and they're
bubbling away now two weeks after the transfer. I think their sudden
activity was coincident with a rise in temperature in the garage.
They're strange creatures, but don't give up on 'em.
Chris
- --
Christopher S. Swingley email: cswingle@iarc.uaf.edu
IARC -- Frontier Program Please use encryption. GPG key at:
University of Alaska Fairbanks www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 11:08:46 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Home Grain Roasting with Popper
Alexandre Enkerli <aenkerli@indiana.edu> takes time out from his
anthropology research to ask:
>Did anyone try roasting grain with a popcorn popper? It works with
>green coffee beans (Maillard reaction and all) so it might work with
>grain, if the temperatures are appropriate.
I started doing this many, many years ago, using a heavy steel
stovetop popcorn popper. This is different from the newer, thinner
stainless steel stovetop poppers. This heavy construction is
probably better for roasting grain and coffee.
It is about 10-11 inches in diameter and ~5 inches high, painted
black with a red knob on the handle. The bottom is concave as you
look into it, or convex as you look at it from the bottom, and the
stirrer is a curved blade that fits the bottom.
I bought it originally to roast coffee, but it worked great for
roasting malt. At first the black paint burned off, but that stopped
being a problem after a while. I've stopped doing this the last few
years (both coffee and grain) and gave it to a friend who roasts his
own coffee.
One problem is that it smokes, and you will use many beer bullets if
you don't have a good stove vent fan. Strangely, it doesn't smell
very nice. I always opened the roaster outside when it was done and
dumped the grains onto a baking sheet to cool them. This is when the
smoke and smell are the worst.
I roasted on a medium heat, as I recall, and stirred the whole time.
If you overdo it, the grains start to stick together. You need to
stop before that. With a little practice you can get pretty good
control and roast anything between amber and black malt. But I've
had just as good luck, and a bit more control, with using the oven.
It's slower, but that's what gives more control.
I had the best luck making pale chocolate for porter. I used more of
it than I would a commercial chocolate, and liked the results better.
Since then I've used commercial brown malt, but I've been thinking of
roasting my own again.
>(so, where's the Rennerian calculator now?)
Still at http://hbd.org/rennerian_table.shtml
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 11:22:53 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: First All Grain Batch
Mel Croll <croll01@comcast.net> writes from Richmond, VA:
>I made my first attempt at an all grain batch this past weekend, and
>I think I may have rather botched the job. As of this morning there
>is absolutely no activity in the fermenter. ... I pitched the liquid
>yeast, covered, and put the fermenter in the old fridge I use for
>temperature control. The controller is set to 60 degrees and the
>thermometer I have inside the fridge reads between 56 and 60,
>appropriate for the swing. The stick-on thermometer on the
>fermenter reads about the same.
Almost certainly you got sufficient conversion to get a fermentable
wort, even if things didn't go as efficiently as they could have.
There is a bit of acidity in Vienna malt, so if you water is not too
alkaline, the pH may well have been OK. And if not, it wouldn't have
resulted in no conversion.
Did you take a specific gravity reading of your wort? You should
always do this to get an idea of your efficiency and also of how
strong your beer will be.
I think your problem is either that you don't have fermentation, or
you have missed it. I suspect the former, and I suspect that it is
due to the relatively low temperature you are fermenting at. You say
that you pitched a tube of yeast, so I gather that you mean you used
a WhiteLabs yeast. The recommended fermentation temperature of the
ones they recommend for alt (and nearly all ale yeasts, for that
matter) is upper 60's F to low 70's. If you want to ferment that
cool, you should make a big starter and pitch it when it's active.
As a matter of fact, starters never hurt.
I suspect that you should warm the temperature of your wort up to
68F/20C and see if you get activity. I think you will. If your
sanitation and luck were good, nothing bad will have grown in the
wort during the interim.
You should also monitor the specific gravity of the wort when it
seems to stop fermenting.
Good luck.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 11:46:11 -0500
From: "Harlan Nilsen" <ramnrah@nebi.com>
Subject: Storing Star San
Timothy Burkhart writes and wants to know about storing Star San in his CF
Chiller.
I do this all the time and have had no problems whatsoever. My feeling is
that it keeps out the nasty bugs and makes it easy to use on brew day. I am
sure to mix the SS properly ( 1 oz./5 gal.) so it is really quite dilute.
As an aside to this, I keep some properly mixed SS in a spray bottle and use
this for sanitizing many things. Works great---I've been brewing for many
years and have not ever had an infected brew (knock on wood).
Good Luck and have fun brewing.
Harlan Nilsen
32nd St. Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:08:33 -0700
From: Brenden Portolese <brenden@votehere.net>
Subject: RE: First All Grain Batch
Mel,
Sounds like you did pretty good off the bat.
Let me get to the bottom line before I start to spew philosophical...
Take your fermenter out of the fridge and check on it every 4-6 hours or so.
Once you get a good fermentation going, then stick it back in the fridge.
You may have just cooled the wort too quickly to get the yeasties going.
Taking it out of the fridge should warm it up enough to get it going. If you
dont see any activity in 12 hours or so, you may need to repitch the yeast.
One thing you probably noticed while lurking. There are two types of
homebrewers:
1. Artists
2. Scientists
You have begun the road of the Artist homebrewer. Phrases like "Looks
good", and "Thats probably enough" will be used in this approach. You may
wander to the Scientist approach where you will actually make a yeast
decision based on attenuation rates. Nothing wrong with this either, Ive
been there and enjoyed my time thoroughly. Both approaches have good and
bad The Artist brewer will revel in the process and the slight changes and
be curious to see what the beer will turn out to be. This brewer usually
changes the recipe on brew day, based on personal intuition and general
mood. The scientist is more of a planner. They check diligently the
temperature of everything, and monitor starch conversion religiously. This
person will almost always use a starter, and offer advice that will usually
solve your problem, but isnt much fun....
As you may have surmised, I am an artist homebrewer. We are a quiet bunch
because, yes, its true our beers arent consistent. I read in homebrewing
books and magazines that a consistent beer is the ultimate achievement in
homebrewing. I say the ultimate achievement is to create beer from
ingredients. Beer that is tasty and in most cases a surprise.
When I want consistent beer, Ill buy it.
Brenden
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 13:32:33 -0400
From: FLJohnson@portbridge.com
Subject: Re: Home Grain Roasting with Popper
Alexandre asks about home roasting malt in a hot-air popcorn popper.
I once was in a pinch for some additional chocolate malt for a porter. I can't
remember off-hand whether I started with pale male or some 60L crystal and it
will probably make a difference in the outcome. I put some into the hot-air
popper I've used for roasting coffee. The malt definitely became more roasted
but began to get sticky, clump up, and then started to scorch as I approached
the darkness of a chocolate malt. I ended up using it but I tediously picked
through what appeared to be burned pieces. (Sounds like I started with the
crystal malt, doesn't it.)
Of course, the hot-air popper has a pretty limited capacity, so you'll have to
do a number of batches.
The beer came out OK and with a definite roasted taste, but not the same as a
good quality chocolate malt.
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina
USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 14:00:49 -0400
From: "Christian Layke" <clayke@wri.org>
Subject: Fermenting large volumes (relatively speaking)
I'm keen on trying to increase the volume of beer I can produce at once
from 10 to 20 gallons or so. The biggest barrier I see is being able to
ferment all that wort at once and still being able to fit it in my
fridge to control the temperature. Four carboys isn't going to work.
Has anyone had good success with plastic containers that are readily
available? Any other solutions?
Thanks,
Christian Layke
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 14:09:38 -0400
From: Alexandre Enkerli <aenkerli@indiana.edu>
Subject: Rennerian, Popcorn, Herbs
Thanks to Jeff Renner for the link to the Rennerian calculation site.
BTW, Yahoo! Maps and Mapquest don't seem to give Lat/Long data for
Canadian addresses but MSN's Mappoint seems to work.
Is there an equivalent of the calculator for reverse lookups
(coordinates from Rennerian data)?
My query about popcorn poppers was more about hot air models which are
likely too hot/quick for our purposes. Might as well try it out and
report back...
As for herbs, the vodka potion trick seems to work quite well. Did
anyone try zapping herbs and seeds in the microwave? They kind of lack
moisture but maybe it could sanitize them without taking too much of
the aroma out?
Lex, in Montreal
[555.1km, 62.8] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:54:45 -0400
From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
Subject: Rennerian calculator
Alex adds to his sig line "(so, where's the Rennerian calculator now?)".
I'm not sure where the one is on the hbd site. I did a site site search,
and the first link was to my copy, with other links to HBD posts with
rennerian coordinates in their sigs. My copy is at http://hbd.org/franklin.
On the right of the home page is a link to the calculator
Some of you may remember that I won by a nose over Brian Levetzow in the
race to develop an online RC calculator a few years back. I posted mine
just a few hours before Brian posted his. However, mine had a few errors
in it, and rather than fix it I yielded to Brian, so his copy was posted
on the HBD. I saved a copy of it and added it to my web site to be sure
to preserve it. My site is now over 5 years old, and I expect it to continue
to exist as long as the HBD exists.
And it's probably nearing that time of year when Jeff explains this bit of
silliness called Rennerian Coordinates, but remember that they are just a
bit of fun. What is more important is to say where you live.
Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN
State of Franklin Homebrewers http://hbd.org/franklin
[421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian
(Janitor's Note: The Rennerian Calculator is, in fact, alive and well on
the HBD server - it is squirrelled away in that bastion of infinitely
inquired-after information know as the HBD's Fabulously Famous Forgotten
FAQ. Click HBD FAQ on the menu on the HBD homepage, use your browser's
search button to find "rennerian", and then follow the links...)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:26:10 +0200
From: "Lee and Ant Hayes" <anleo@worldonline.co.za>
Subject: Heavy drinking at Varsity
I have followed the thread of binge drinking at college with interest
(cultural aside: here at the tip of Africa, college is where people unable
to get into university go). I saw university as a time to test boundaries
in a tolerant environment. I could argue in favour of anarchy, hang-glide on
weekends, walk down the main road at 2 am nursing a gallon of Tassies (red
wine) and generally behave in an anti-social manner - without anyone getting
overly concerned.
I graduated, cut my hair, cut back on my drinking, and got a job. People now
trust me to look after their pensions (we do a better job over here than is
done in a 401k environment - but that's another story).
I don't regret drinking too much at varsity. I cannot blame my folks who
taught me to respect alcohol from an early age. Even as I was hugging the
porcelain towards the end of another rugby club party, I knew that what I
was doing was not sustainable or sensible. But it was fun! Playing Coinage
(Quarters), taking part in boat races, all of that stupid stuff was great
fun at the time. It was a time of great freedom, which is becoming rarer as
I get older. If I drink too much now, it is seen as a lapse of judgement -
which it probably is.
These days I worry more about my staff who didn't revel to excess when they
were eighteen since they don't know where the boundaries are, and do damage
when they lose control, or wake up one day realising that their life has
passed them by.
I think that the solution to binge drinking at university is to localise it
on campus. Let students drink to excess in a place where they don't have to
drive and where they will not bother the rest of society. And if their brew
of choice is a home brew, so much the better.
Ant Hayes
Gauteng
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:32:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Road Frog <road_frog_run@yahoo.com>
Subject: Home Grain Roasting with Popper
Yes, I have used a hot air popper to roast grains. It
has been awhile but it seems like 20 minutes for
around 4 oz. It will not give you black or chocolate,
but still very nice touch. I used it on 2 row and
unmalted barley. I did have to tilt the popper
slightly backwards to keep the grain from flying out.
Glyn
Road Frog Brewery
Southern Middle TN
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:12:10 -0400
From: "National Midnight Star Brewery" <NationalMidnightStarBrewery.at.hotmail.dot.com@hbd.org>
Subject: Amarit Lager
A friend of mine recently handed me a photocopy of a beer bottle label. The
label was for Amarit Lager Beer which was also called "The World's Prize
Beer". It is made by the Thai Amarit Brewery Limited Bangkok. He drank it
while in Thailand and Vietnam in the 70's and claims that it was the best he
ever had. I have done some searches but all I can find out is that it is a
Pale Lager at 5.5% ABV. Anyone have any other specifics about this brew?
We have scheduled a "Teach a Friend to Homebrew Day" for September 20th
(November is not the best in Michigan for enticing newbies to learn to brew
outside) and my friend will be there and we would like to recreate this
beer.
Thanks in advance for any help!
William Menzl
Midland, Michigan [99.8, 344.8] Apparent Rennerian
National Midnight Star Brewery
NationalMidnightStarBrewery at hotmail dot com
(e-mail address altered above to avoid spam crawlers)
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:23:31 -0400
From: "National Midnight Star Brewery" <NationalMidnightStarBrewery.at.hotmail.dot.com@hbd.org>
Subject: Moose Drool
Since the queue is low, I will send this one out as it has had me
thinking...
I can't remember where I read it but I think Big Sky Brewing can no longer
call their Brown ale "Moose Drool" because of some sort of copyright
infringement brought on by Moosehead. I think they decided to not make it
at all rather than change the name. My father was in WY a couple of weeks
ago and had a hard time finding some Moose Drool but eventually was
successful. A party store owner told him that Moose Drool was made by AB
and they were no longer making it.
Now I assume that AB was not contract manufacturing it for Big Sky but can
this be confirmed by anyone? Did Big Sky stop production because of the
Moosehead copyright? Any help at setting my mind/story straight would be
appreciated.
Thanks!
William Menzl
Midland, Michigan [99.8, 344.8] Apparent Rennerian
National Midnight Star Brewery
NationalMidnightStarBrewery at hotmail dot com
(e-mail address altered above to avoid spam crawlers)
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4310, 07/30/03
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