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HOMEBREW Digest #4201
HOMEBREW Digest #4201 Fri 21 March 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Gump re: Hops and Head ("Rob Moline")
sankey wash heads -need info ("Joe ,just-Joe")
Reference Books ("Ray Daniels")
Re: Candy sugar (was Darkening a Dubbel) (Wendy & Reuben Filsell)
RE: New Hampshire (Jonathan Royce)
Acidulated Malt ("A.J. deLange")
Wyeast 2278 experience (Randy Ricchi)
Re: Mash Tun / HLT Insulation (ksc58)
Re: Nashua NH Brewpubs (Todd Goodman)
WLP500 Belgian Dubbel ("Shawn E Lupold, Ph.D")
insulation, CAPs, etc. (Marc Sedam)
Dry Lager Yeast and Clinitest, Ramstein ("Dave Burley")
Going all grain (Mark Kempisty)
Darkening Dubbels (Charles)
Re: Darkening a Dubbel ("Tidmarsh Major")
Kessler Ale ("Neb Bosworth")
Nashua New Hampster (Richard Foote)
Bottling from a keg (Richard Foote)
Wort chilling (K.M.)" <kmuell18@visteon.com>
Pilsner and Munich based extracts ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
Mounting Heater Element ("Pa tand Debbie Reddy")
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Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:15:36 -0600
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump@mchsi.com>
Subject: Gump re: Hops and Head
Gump re: Hops and Head
Steve,
There is an artificial agent, "Sparkling Foam" by NorthWestern, and
undoubtedly others....I use it in my pub's Root Beer. I have never used it
in beer, but have often wondered.....
Cheers!
Gump
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
>From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: re: Hops and Head
<SNIP>
>I'm surprised that there isn't some artificial foam positive agent
>used to replace this. Maybe there is, but I'm not aware of it.
<SNIP>
- ---
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:54:10 -0600
From: "Joe ,just-Joe" <pester_joe@hotmail.com>
Subject: sankey wash heads -need info
Does anyone know if there is anything special about a sankey wash head that
justifies it costing over twice as much as a tap head? In terms of cleaning
one or two kegs, wsould a regular tap head with the gas check valve removed
make an acceptable cleaning head? Thanks in advance.
Joe Gibbens
Hopedale IL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 06:11:33 -0600
From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan@ameritech.net>
Subject: Reference Books
Hi all,
Just some thoughts on brewing reference books for the Steinfillers---and
anyone else who is so inclined. There is some recently published
literature that is quite excellent if somewhat expensive. They are
encyclopedic in their breadth and stunning in their detail. And most
importantly, they are completely up to date. Here are three that are
"must buys" in my opinion:
Brewing Yeast and Fermentation
by Chris Boulton and David Quain
644 pages, published 2002.
(http://www.chipsbooks.com/brewing.htm)
MALTS AND MALTING
by Dennis E. Briggs
796 pages, published 1998
(http://www.chipsbooks.com/malts.htm)
I have spent a good part of the last year reading the above two titles
as time allows. The yeast book has an astounding amount of NEW
information even for someone like myself who has been reading and
studying brewing literature for a dozen years or more. Briggs covers
everything including technology (equipment) and techniques, biology,
barley. It is now THE go-to resource for all questions related to
barley, malt and malting.
My most commonly consulted "general" brewing book these days is:
TECHNOLOGY BREWING AND MALTING
by Wolfgang Kunze
720 pages, 1996
The shortcoming is that the perspective is German and lager oriented
(although not exclusively), but in my opinion you can't find a better
overall compendium of modern brewing practice. I greatly prefer it over
Hardwick (Handbook of Brewing) or The Practical Brewer (MBAA) for depth
and clarity as well as concise presentation. Hough, Briggs, Stevens and
Young (Malting & Brewing Science I & II) continues to be a standby and
is still the best source when specific information on British ale
brewing is desired. Nonetheless this work is beginning to show its age
and seems to become less relevant with each passing year. Mind you, I
would still discard a large number of other texts from my collection
before giving up HBS&Y.
Cheers,
Ray Daniels
Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer
Director, Brewers Publications
Association of Brewers
ray@aob.org
773-665-1300
For subscriptions and individual copy sales, call 1-888-822-6273.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:07:42 +0800
From: Wendy & Reuben Filsell <filsell@myplace.net.au>
Subject: Re: Candy sugar (was Darkening a Dubbel)
> From: homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles)
> Reply-To: homebrew@hbd.org (Posting Address Only - No Requests)
> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 00:32:20 -0500
> To: homebrew@hbd.org
> Subject: Homebrew Digest #4200 (March 20, 2003)
>
> So I decided to make my own. I dissolved 8 oz. of table sugar in a
> cup of deionized water and added enough lactic acid (3 drops) to get
> the pH to ~5.3, and heated it to a simmer to invert it (even though
> yeast will invert the sugar). I held it at a simmer for an hour or
> so, then proceeded as above. At first the water just boiled off,
> then it darkened. I stopped at a rich reddish-brown. I dissolved
> the resulting "peanut-less brittle" in hot water and added it at the
Sounds like Candy Sugar perhaps this will help.
http://craftbrewer.org/ go to Materials and Methods - making your own
Belgian Candy Sugar.
Cheers,
Reuben.
W.A.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 04:34:14 -0800
From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan@woodburybrewingco.com>
Subject: RE: New Hampshire
Chuck Doucette asked about pubs in Nashua, NH.
Chuck:
Martha's Exchange right on Main St. is quite good. Good food, nice atmosphere,
yummy brews.
If you're into wine, check out Michael Timothy's Wine & Jazz bar, right across
the street. If you want to eat there, I'd recommend making a reservation as it
is small and very busy. They have EXCELLENT wines and the food is outstanding.
Pricier than Martha's, but worth it, IMHO.
If you don't mind making a drive, try the Brewery Exchange in Lowell, MA (about
15 minutes south of Nashua). Located in one of the old cotton mills, this place
is pretty neat--you sit among a bunch of copper clad fermentation vessels.
Finally, if you are just looking for a tour, drive about 5 minutes north
on "old Route 3" (AKA the Daniel Webster highway) and you'll arrive at the
northeast Anheiser-Busch brewery (in Merrimack). The tour is very basic, but
it's fun and you get to try a couple less-known and better-tasting A-B recipes.
(They have a Clydesdale team there too which is pretty awe-inspiring.)
HTH,
Jonathan
Woodbury Brewing Co.
www.woodburybrewingco.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:22:45 +0000
From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel@cox.net>
Subject: Acidulated Malt
Patrick asked whether acidulated malt is being used in a recipe to
compensate for water defficiencies. The answer is "most probably". In
brewing with very soft water there is no calcium to trigger the
acidifying reaction with malt phosphate so that unless acid is being
supplied by dark malt it is likely that mash pH will not go as low as
desired. Acidulated malt can be a source of the required acid.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:33:52 -0500
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Wyeast 2278 experience
Andy Mikesell is wondering about strange strands hanging in his beer and
wonders if it's a property of the yeast he used.
Andy,
I brewed a few lagers with Y2278 this year, and a few years back I
brewed all my lagers with that yeast. I have never seen anything like
what you describe. Just a normal ferment. I would never race to throw
something out, though. Wait and see how it tastes.
By the way, lagers generally taste like s#@* for several (6 to 8) weeks
after primary, so give it some time before you decide.
Randy Ricchi
Hancock, MI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:46:15 -0500 (EST)
From: ksc58 <kcada@cas.org>
Subject: Re: Mash Tun / HLT Insulation
Pat Reddy asked about using the aluminum insulation being sold at hardware
stores like Home Depot and Lowes that's essentially 3/8" bubble wrap sand-
wiched between two sheets of very thin aluminum.
I've used the insulation you've mentioned from Home Depot and it's great!
I wrapped it around twice on a Bruheat boiler (which is just an ~6 gal. poly-
propylene bucket with a 220v. heater in it) and I could easily hold the sides
during a rolling boil. This works great for the sparge water tank and holds
its temperature very well. I also used a twice-wrapped layer on a Polar pot
which I was using on a gas range to mash in and it holds temperatures very
well during step mashing. I also have a double-layer disc of the stuff to put
on top of the lid during rests.
I don't recall what magazine/book article I read discussing it, but you can
use good 'ole duct tape for "prettying-up" the edges and you'll want to cut out
slots for the pot handles. The duct tape works great for edging these slots.
Home Depot also has adhesive-backed Velcro whic you can use on the edge to
keep the layers from unfurlling while in place.
If you do use this stuff on a range you'll need to unwrap the pot each time
you apply the heat and then rewrap it when your done heating but that's quite
easy with the Velcro.
Ken Cada
Chemical Abstracts Service
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:03:50 -0500
From: Todd Goodman <tsg@bonedaddy.net>
Subject: Re: Nashua NH Brewpubs
In HBD #4200, Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I will be heading off to Nashua, NH. in a couple of
> weeks on business and was wondering if there are any
> brewpubs of note in the area. I don't know exactly
> what our schedule is yet, but hope to have some time
> to quaff a few good brews if there are any.
Martha's Brewery Exchange (I think that's the name) is in downtown
Nashua. They usually have a few good beer available.
It's really downtown and not near Pheasant Lane mall though, so don't
get confused.
Across the street from them (on Temple St.) is Jasper's Homebrew store
so you might want to stop in there too.
Also across from Martha's is Castro's Back Room (I think that's the
name) if you're interested in cigars.
Regards,
Todd
Still reconstructing the brewery in Westford, MA (15 minutes from
Nashua) [630.3, 84] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:06:23 -0500
From: "Shawn E Lupold, Ph.D" <lupolds@jhmi.edu>
Subject: WLP500 Belgian Dubbel
I'm fermenting my first Dubbel and using White Labs WLP500. It's been
in primary 11 days and I just transferred it to secondary last night.
The taste and aroma is very promising, but only a small portion of the
yeast have fallen out of solution. It looks more like Bavarian wheat
yeast than Belgian ale. Will these yeast ever flocculate and fall out
of solution? The fermentation is basically complete (1.065-1.009) and
I'm wondering if I should go ahead and bottle or wait for the yeast to
fall out in the carboy.
Thanks in advance,
Shawn
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:19:42 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: insulation, CAPs, etc.
It *was* I who proposed using Kellogg's corn flakes in a CAP. The
"extras" that Jeff notes are in the formulation are not going to hurt
your beer (malt...well, that's a good thing, salts and minerals will
help as yeast nutrients) and they have the added benefit of being
available to absolutely everyone. Not that cornmeal is that hard to find.
I currently use the "aluminum flashing insulation" material mentioned by
Pat Reddy on my mash tun, held together with the aluminum tape they sell
right next to it. Works like a champ...on a reasonably warm day (>55F)
it will hold mash temps (assuming your tun TOP is also insulated) to
within 2F of the desired temps. On very warm days (>75F) it stays right
on for the full 60 minute mash. A very cheap solution.
As for Nathan Hall...
Let me get this straight. You made a wonderful beer that's outstanding
in flavor and appearance, as well as throwing a nice Belgian lace, and
you're asking if you "screwed it up"? Sounds like you made a hell of a
beer to me. If you feel like you have to categorize it, look through
the BJCP guidelines (http://www.bjcp.org) and find a style that fits
what you've made and call it that. Otherwise, you can call it the
Uber-Pils and be done with it. I would just call it great beer and hope
it doesn't disappear too fast.
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:52:34 -0500
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: Dry Lager Yeast and Clinitest, Ramstein
Brewsters:
Gee. Rob "Gump" Moline is a real gentlerman and shows real character. But I
knew that all along.
- -------------------
AJ , don't know why I thought Ramstein was near Frankfurt. Anyway, apfelwein
is still a treat in Frankfurt. Thanks for the info.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:58:41 -0500
From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty@pav.research.panasonic.com>
Subject: Going all grain
I too went all grain after about 6 years of extract and have not gone
back (though I don't rule it out). It is more work but the results are
- -- I feel -- even more satisfying. One of the biggest improvements I
made to my extract brews (my last one to be exact) was going to a full
boil. That IPA stood out far and above anything I did before and those
were all quite good.
So if you are staying with extracts and partial boils, try a full boil.
Plus it puts you on the road to all-grain if you ever want to.
- --
Take care,
Mark
Richboro, PA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:40:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Charles@thestewarts.com
Subject: Darkening Dubbels
On Wed, 19 Mar 2003 Jeff Renner <jeffrenner@comcast.net> enlightened us on
Darkening a Dubbel:
> I have had luck with caramelized sugar. Using a clean, very smooth
> skillet, heat a cup or so of sugar on medium heat. . . .
[details deleted]
> Pour it onto a piece of aluminum foil. . . .
[more details deleted]
Then break apart the caramelized sugar and boil it with some water
> and add enough to get the color you want.
Jeff, this is a great idea, but I think I'll take it one step simpler. When I
make glazed carrots, I combine about a half a cup of sugar (I never measure
stuff when I cook) with an ounce or two of water (doesn't matter how much) and a
squirt of lemon juice. I heat it just as you describe and watch carefully as it
undergoes the color changes. When it gets to where I want it, I immediately
take it to the sink and put a cup or two of water in it - be careful as there is
much steam generated. It makes an instant sauce - you don't have to pour, cool,
and boil. I might make up a larger quantity of this stuff just to have on hand
in the brewery!
Chip Stewart
Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA
Charles at TheStewarts.com
http://Charles.TheStewarts.com/brewery
Support anti-Spam legislation.
Join the fight http://www.cauce.org
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:54:21 -0600
From: "Tidmarsh Major" <tidmarsh@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Darkening a Dubbel
On 20 Mar 2003 at 0:12, Jeff Renner wrote:
> I have had luck with caramelized sugar.
Along these same lines, a few years ago someone here on the HBD
posted a link to some scans of homebrew directions from prohibition
that as I recall might have come from the poster's father-in-law. The
directions included plans for a mash tun with false bottom, and they
described making and using caramel color, much like Jeff's post.
I don't have access to the web here at work to do a search of the
archives, but perhaps the original poster is still around to refresh
our collective memories.
Tidmarsh Major
Tuscaloosa, Ala.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:26:32 -0500
From: "Neb Bosworth" <neb@quateams.com>
Subject: Kessler Ale
I have a buddy whose last name is Kessler and he had found some old ads for
Kessler ale. I was wondering if anyone out there has ever come across a
clone recipe for a Kessler beer? If so, where might I lay my hands on such a
thing? if such a thing exists.
Thanks,
-Neb
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:05:42 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote@mindspring.com>
Subject: Nashua New Hampster
Chuck writes asking for local libation worth considering in Nashua.
Martha's Exchange Brewing Company
BrewPub
185 Main Street
Nashua, NH 03060
(603) 883-8781
According to
http://www.pubcrawler.com/Template/ReviewWC.cfm/flat/BrewerID=356, it's
beers are rated "Good" overall. This parallels my experiences there, at
least when I was there last about 5-6 years ago. They've got a "fish bowl"
brewhaus with only a knee wall separating the DME brewery equipment from
the patrons. They've got a nice mural painted on the wall too.
For micros in the area, try:
Nutfield Brewing Company
Brewery
22 Manchester Road
Derry, NH 03038
(603) 434-9678
http://www.nutfield.com
They've got an Alan Pugsley designed brewery. Auburn Ale is their flagship
offering. Very hospitable folks there. Pubcrawler overall rating is "Good".
Sadly, Castle Springs Brewing Company, Moultonborough is no more.
Otherwise I'd heartily recommending buying up some to bring home. Their
GABF winning IPA and Munich Helles were superb examples, IMHO. Now, they
just focus on their spring water [boo hoo].
Hope this helps.
Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:29:25 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote@mindspring.com>
Subject: Bottling from a keg
Dan writes:
"How about priming the whole batch in the keg
with a corn sugar solution, mixing it well, then using a very low pressure
to bottle a few. The keg would then be allowed to condition at 50F for a
couple of weeks instead of force carbonating."
This is SOP for me when bottling. However, my procedure differs in that I
transfer from secondary about a gallon and prime it at a proportionate rate
with boiled corn sugar soln. This usually yields just under two six packs
for competitions. The rest (from the secondary) gets racked into the now
empty bottling keg (corny) for force carbonating and serving on draught.
I have recently thought about going Dan's route. This would allow for more
accurate and repeatable cabonation levels. The negative aspect has been
the yeast sediment and cloudy beer. I may try combating this with some
finings (after carbonating) though.
Hope this helps.
Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 16:32:10 -0500
From: "Mueller, Kevin (K.M.)" <kmuell18@visteon.com>
Subject: Wort chilling
I happen to work in automotive powertrain cooling, so I have access to a lot
of different heat exchangers. Radiators, Condensers, Transmission oil
coolers, heater cores, etc. Most of these are 100% aluminum (all but most
radiators which have plastic end tanks, so I don't plan on using one of
these). These are regularly scrapped out, so I can get my hands on a number
of different varieties of cores that have never had anything but helium
(used to leak check) and air in them.
My question is this...Will they work as a wort chiller? Will the aluminum
hold up to the pH of the wort? I believe the pro's use plate type chillers
made out of stainless, right? Simple calculations for the core and flow
will tell me how quickly it will chill the wort, so I can get the right
size, but I'm mostly concerned with the material holding up and not leaching
any extra Al into the wort.
Anyone have experience with this? Any metallurgists lurking?
I was thinking of mounting one in front of a standard box fan to increase
the cooling capacity and using it instead of making a counter flow chiller.
Thanks,
Kevin
Canton, MI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:11:39 -0500
From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk@esper.com>
Subject: Pilsner and Munich based extracts
Has anyone had any experience with the various pilsner and munich malt based
extracts? Specifically, I'm thinking about the Pilsner based and Munich /
Pils based extract from St. Pats, Alexanders, and Williams Brewing
Private replies are fine
Thanks!
Tom Karnowski
Knoxville TN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:22:16 -0600
From: "Pa tand Debbie Reddy" <reddydp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Mounting Heater Element
(I think I'm bringing this issue back from the dead)
I found a hbd post from Jan 2002 where my exact question was posted, "How
best do I mount a screw in type heating element through my keg wall without
welding a coupling in place (no time for that!)?" The replies were:
Dennis Collins - use a galvinized conduit ring
Mike Pensinger - CPVC Coupling
Mr. Hollenbeck - Have a coupling welded (Sorry Dion, no time for that!)
I do find that the conduit nut fits nicely, but is it what I want in contact
with my acidic wort (what are these made with/coated with anyway?). Is the
CPVC durable enough? What about hacking of the business end of a 1" copper
female adapter and using it as a nut?
As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated as I plan to mount this
thing Saturday morning.
Also, please reply to pat.reddy@mavtech.cc as this is my home address.
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4201, 03/21/03
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