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HOMEBREW Digest #4215
HOMEBREW Digest #4215 Tue 08 April 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
Glacier hops again ("Mark Kellums")
Fly sparging, indoor boil,metabisulfite water treatment ("Dave Burley")
Carmel Porter (how to do it?) (darrell.leavitt)
Re: BMW motorcycle keg rack ("Dennis Collins")
Even More Tales of She Who Must Be Brewed For ("Hanlon, Steve")
Zinc in water ("Doug A Moller")
repackaging hops (Randy Ricchi)
RE: Advice on Mocha Java Stout (Michael Hartsock)
Re: Repackaging hops (David Towson)
sankey couplings (Marc Sedam)
re: Indoor Boiling (R.A.)" <rbarrett@ford.com>
First brew, 2003 ("Wayne Love")
Many thanks to Dan Listermann (=?iso-8859-1?q?Stephen=20Hetrick?=)
Cooling Off the Wort ("Dave Larsen")
Fermentation Recirculation, Odd Keg, Coffee, & Vacuum Sealing ("Chip Stewart")
Re: Comments on RO treatement ("Mike Sharp")
Re: Fly sparging (BrewInfo)
RE: Indoor Boiling ("Drew Avis")
BONES Bash Results Are In! (Bruce Millington)
Re: Advice on Mocha Java Stout (Matthew Arnold)
CAN this error be fixed??? (Michele Maatta)
Wired News Booze to Fuel Gadget Batteries ("Pete Calinski")
10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition ("Christopher Clair")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 00:18:38 -0500
From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel@springnet1.com>
Subject: Glacier hops again
Bill,
Here you go...again.
Hop Variety G L A C I E R
Origin Cross between Elsasser F and 8685-014 M. Genetic
composition is 1/2 Elsasser, 5/32 Brewer's Gold, 1/8
Northern Brewer, 1/16 Bullion, 1/32 Early Green, 1/32
German Aroma hop, 1/64 East Kent Golding, 1/128
Bavarian and 9/128 unknown
Maturity Mid-season
Yield Six Year Average: 2,135 lbs/acre
Disease Reaction Needs Plant Protectants for Powdery Mildew and Downey
Mildew. Agronomically, very acceptable.
Cone-Structure Medium-compact and plump
Quality:
Lupulin Abundant, yellow in color
Aroma Excellent, pleasant hoppiness
Storageability Six year average: 71.5% of alpha acids remaining after six
months storage at 20 C. Very good, and similar to
Willamette, Styrian, and Magnum
Spectro Data:
Alpha Acids Six year average: 5.63%
Co-Humulone Six year average: 12%
Beta Acids Six year average: 7.6%
Hop Oils:
Total Oil 0.7 - 1.6% v/w (six year average = 1.1%)
Myrcene 33 - 62% (six year average = 47%)
Humulene 24 - 36% (six year average = 29%)l
Caryophyllene 6.5 - 10.0% (six year average = 7.2%)
Farnesene <0.3%
Brewing Character: An excellent hop with balanced bittering properties
combined with an acceptable aroma profile.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 01:31:12 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net>
Subject: Fly sparging, indoor boil,metabisulfite water treatment
Brewsters:
Jeff found an old reference using the term Fly Sparging. Now the mystery
deepens. Where did that term come from?
For the record, and 'les you misunderstand Jeff's teasing, I did not
disparage AlK's rep by my comments. As I said in the previous post, Al
commented on the peculiarity of the term at the time of his original posting.
- -------------------
Mike in Madison wouild like to avoid a Zhivagoesque beer boilup in his
basement in winter ( it's STILL winter there isn't it? Flowers and trees are
blooming here in South Carolina) . I suggest you install a kitchen vent fan
with an exit to the outside, otherwise you have a potential mess, mold, etc.
Releasing several gallons of water in an enclosed space over a short time is
outside the design range. Don't know, but maybe there is a small window fan
arrangement that you could buy or build that will work if you have a window
and such available. This could be put in place as needed after you dig all
that snow away from your windows. {8^)
- ---------------------
Peter Wadey from Down Under asks if it is OK to use sodium metabisulfite to
clean up chloramine in his water.
No wirries, mate. Either sodium or potassium will do the job, since it is the
metabisulfite which is the active ingredient in this case. In either event,
the amount you add - a few ppm - will be insignificant. In winemaking, the
potassium form is used since it is often eliminated by precipitation as a
bitartrate salt.
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 07:40:20 -0400
From: darrell.leavitt@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Carmel Porter (how to do it?)
I have been asked to make a Carmel Porter. I have the porter side ok, but
am not sure how to mimic the carmel? Has anyone done this with success?
..Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:12:00 -0400
From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins@drain-all.com>
Subject: Re: BMW motorcycle keg rack
Kevin writes:
>Thought some of you might be interested in seeing this...
>http://www.infernalmachineshop.com/Keg_Rack_1.htm.
>It shows the modification of a BMW motorcycle to hold 2 corney kegs!
>Kevin
>Canton, MI
Hey, this is great! Much better than that silly hat I have that holds two
beer cans with an interconnecting straw. These will last much longer and I
won't need a cup holder!
Dennis Collins
Knoxville, TN
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:36:26 -0400
From: "Hanlon, Steve" <SHanlon@dnr.state.md.us>
Subject: Even More Tales of She Who Must Be Brewed For
In HBD #4211, Frank in Buffalo writes:
>>The cat pounces. SWMBO looks off defiantly, puts her nose in the air,
and
>>says, in a measured, icy tone, "I'll...just...have...a...Coke...."
Recently my wife and I went out for dinner without our young son. The
waitress hands us the menu and then asks what we'd like to drink. I ask
what beer they have and she does the usual - Bud, Bud Lite, Coors... I
ask what they have in bottles. Bud, Bud Lite, Coors...
Then she says they have a dark beer, Killians. I look at my wife and
then order a Coke. I just couldn't see washing down my steak with a
"dark" Killians.
-Steve Hanlon
Severn, MD
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 07:43:11 -0500
From: "Doug A Moller" <damoller@intergate.com>
Subject: Zinc in water
To Peter Wadley; campden will not remove chlorine or chloramine. When I
brewed in Oklahoma City(also chloramine) I used a carbon filter(about $30
US). Another issue you will have to deal with is they probably add hydrated
lime to raise the pH to 10 or above to stabilize the chloramines otherwise
it is no better than chlorine and dissipates out. I know chloramines will
not vaporize at room temp. Check your pH and find out what they use to raise
it. I used the Okc water after I carbon filtered with no side affects to my
beer in fact made some great beer with it even though my pH was 10.1! If you
add enough acid to bring the pH down IT WILL HAVE A PROFOUND FLAVOR
CONTRIBUTION TO YOUR BEER! Not in a good way.
I have a question to the group.
I received my water test from the J R Peters testing lab and my zinc is at 2
ppm. I have read that anywhere from .5 to 1 ppm is toxic to yeast. I have
made beer with the water as is and had no fermentation problems and even
stored yeast on slants and slurry from long periods of time without any
problems. If I do find it is a problem in the future how can I get rid of
the zinc?
Doug
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 08:51:10 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: repackaging hops
Doug Moyer was asking about methods of re-packaging hops. I use a
FoodSaver (Bagvac model), and it really does a good job. The foodsaver
bags are oxygen impermeable and quite heavy duty. The machine has enough
vacuum power that it really compacts a half pound bag of whole hops, so
much so that the hops eventually become clumped together. Very nice for
long term storage in the freezer.
I bought mine a couple years ago at Wal-mart for about $99 US
Randy
Hancock, MI
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 06:22:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Advice on Mocha Java Stout
I recently made a gallon of a coffee stout thing (i
had 1 gallon of stout that wouldn't fit in the
secondary). I just took a few shots of coffee liquour
and pitched in the secondary, and let what sugar was
in there ferment out, you could also incorporate it
into the bottling and use the liquour to prime. Try a
fifth per gallon.
michael
=====
"May those who love us, love us.
And those that don't love us,
May God turn their hearts.
And if he doesn't turn their hearts,
may he turn their ankles
So we'll know them
by their limping."
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:23:03 -0400
From: David Towson <dtowson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Repackaging hops
In HBD 4214, Doug Moyer asks for suggestions on repackaging whole hops for
a club bulk buy.
I have been very pleased with the results of storing whole hops in glass
jars with screw-on lids (e.g., Mason jars). I pack them as tightly as I
can, and store them in the freezer compartment of my beer fridge. I can
get a pound of hops in four quart jars. And since the jars are reusable,
the initial cost is spread over a long lifetime.
Dave in Bel Air, Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:49:16 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: sankey couplings
Ben asks about a Sankey coupling...
These are pretty easy to deal with. Release any remaining pressure by
pushing down on the ball in the spear COVERED WITH A TOWEL. No need for
a stanky beer bath. Buy the smallest awl you can find. Pry the ring
out with the awl. Takes 30 sec tops. My problem has always been getting
the ring back inside the keg, FWIW. That just takes practice.
-m
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 11:08:38 -0400
From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett@ford.com>
Subject: re: Indoor Boiling
Mike in Madison wrote:
>What is the best method for boiling wort indoors in a basement? I want to
>go to 12 gallon batches and move to all grain brewing, but boiling outside
>in the winter won't be pretty in Wisconsin.
Come on Mike!!!!! Don't be a "we knee"!!! Brewing outside in the winter is
fun!!!! My wife and I brewed six consecutive weekends this year starting
on January 11!!!! We live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We're not exactly the
tropical paradise of the Great Lakes!!! The average highs on those days
were 26.88F and the average lows were 14.36F. Get some fresh air!!!
Brew outside!!!! What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do you
brew inside or outside??
We make the beer we drink!!
Bob Barrett
Ann Arbor, MI
(2.8, 103.6) Rennarian. Had dinner with him and his wife last Friday
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 13:20:45 -0300
From: "Wayne Love" <wlove@fdchoice.com>
Subject: First brew, 2003
Finally, after six or so weeks I've got my slate cleaned off enough to get
back into spring brewing. I tried my new rims out yesterday, (Compu-Brew,
from ABT, ) worked great, appeared to have no temperature stratification,
although I could only stick the thermometer down about two thirds of the way
but the readings agreed to the control panel that reads from the mash
outtake.(the bottom)
I attempted to use a supposively new March 809 hs pump to transfer water
from my hlt to the rims however the pump screeched as if a bearing was gone.
(Are these pumps self priming or should they be mounted below the hlt keg?)
A similar pump in my rims worked fine.
Ran into another hiccup. I replaced the hoses on my wort chiller (immersion
type) with the reinforced heat tolerant hoses. I thought I had tightened the
hose clamps sufficiently, however in checking wort about 15 minutes into the
chilling process, I was dismayed to discover that my volume had
significantly shrunken to approximately 7 gallons instead of the 11 gallons
that I had started out with. .....Where'd it go? It wasn't till I noticed
that it was down to the hose level on the chiller that I suspected that the
rushing water must have drawn the wort in thru a loose clamp and down my
drain. (Venturi action?) Oh well the remaining wort tasted great and I had
hit my target O.G. of 1.049 dead on, and I had had fun.
With the talk this morning (on another site) about oxygenating the wort, 14
or so hours into the process, how many actually do this? And is this window
still open at 20 to 24 hrs later?
Hoppy brewing
Wayne Love,
Rothesay, NB.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:21:06 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Stephen=20Hetrick?= <invalid76@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Many thanks to Dan Listermann
I would like to publicly thank Mr. Listermann for a
special favor. I posted on his site that I had lost
one of the plugs for my sparger (during its first use,
no less...). I wanted to know where I could get a
replacement, and Mr. Listermann asked for my mailing
address.
Less than a week later I received 4 replacement plugs
from him. He did this without asking for any kind of
compensation for the postage. Needless to say, he
just gained a customer for life.
Once again, thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 17:08:44 +0000
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpumonkey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Cooling Off the Wort
Thanks for all the great answers about protein rests and wheat malt posted
here and via email. I was not aware that wheat malt is highly modified like
barley malt it. That is good to know.
I have another unrelated question, though. I live in the desert. During
the summer months I usually take a hiatus from brewing because it simply is
too hot. Even in the months leading up to summer, my ale temperatures
often soar to 76, 77, even 78 degrees, which is right on the edge of
producing a drinkable product. I can't really lower the temperature in the
house without having horrendous electric bills.
Eventually, I'll invest in a chest freezer and one of the funky external
thermostats (I want to do that anyway to get into lagering). However, in
the mean time, I'd like to find a way of cooling my wort.
I thought about maybe putting the carboy in a shallow tub of water with a
fan blowing on it -- a sort of swamp cooler effect. However, I'm afraid
that I'll end up with a lot of hard water scaling on the fermentor (though
so far that is my best bet).
I'm sure there are some other desert brewers here. Does anybody have a
good, cost effective, low-tech way to cool their fermentors?
- Dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 14:09:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chip Stewart" <Charles@thestewarts.com>
Subject: Fermentation Recirculation, Odd Keg, Coffee, & Vacuum Sealing
It occured to me the other day that a simpler solution might exist to the
fermentation recirculation experiment. You know the self-start siphon hose with
the squeeze bulb and the little valve inside? How 'bout hooking one up so it
pulls out of the side port and in the the bottom. Every time you walk by, just
give it a squeeze (or for those of you who sleep with your conical fermenters
beside you - and you know who you are - just roll over and give it a squeeze).
Doing that a few times a day should be enough to keep the yeast in suspension.
I know a $5 / 5 minute solution isn't much fun, but it may work!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
In my latest batch of kegs, I received a 1.5 gal. John Wood / Superior keg. I
already have one of these and would love to have another (great for taking a
little brew with me to friends, family, etc.). Unfortunately, the ball-lock
fittings are missing. Now I can usually get fittings for must kegs, but this
one even has the folks at Foxx stumped. The threads on the kegs are smaller
than any of the old/new cornelius/firestone parts I have. Anyone have any ideas
where I can pick these up?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Regarding Darrell's queston as to how much coffee to use - I used 1/3 lb. and it
was a little strong in 5 gal. Next time I'll use 1/4 lb.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
And finally . . . . Doug Moyer asks about repackaging hops. I just repackaged a
bunch for myself a little while ago. It seems the vacuum sealer doesn't suck
the air out very well if a smooth bag is used. The bags that come with the
sealer (or can be purchased separately) have very small channels for the air to
leave. Using them, I was able to repackage a couple of dozen bags without any
problem. Oh, and I set the heater setting at two so it melted the plastic a
little more.
Chip Stewart
Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA
Charles at TheStewarts.com
http://Charles.TheStewarts.com/brewing
Support anti-Spam legislation.
Join the fight http://www.cauce.org
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 11:13:50 -0700
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Comments on RO treatement
Dave Burley has some suggestions regarding RO treatment of well water:
"In any event and what is of real importance is you can't really make good
beer with high iron water. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get a little
under the sink RO water treatment for drinking water and making beer.
"BTW if you or your family drink RO water, be sure to periodically sanitize
the system with a little bleach per instructions, change the carbon filter
and include trace mineral tablets in their and your diet."
I have a couple of points to make here...well, cautions, really.
RO does work well for treating water, but the membranes are ruined by iron.
You need to pre-treat the water with manganese green sand if you're going to
use RO with water having iron in it.
Also, while the suggestion regarding sanitizing is a good one, the RO
systems sold for well water systems typically use TFC (thin film composite)
membranes which are VERY vulnerable to any halogen in the +1 state.
Chlorine will rapidly cleave the polymer, and cause the membrane to fail.
Household RO systems for municipal water usually use CA or CTA (cellulose
[tri-] acetate), which is resistant to chlorine (but they're much less
efficient, and don't work as well as TFC). So these are sometimes sanitized
with low level chlorine. Some RO systems are pretreated with activated
carbon filters to remove the chlorine, and use TFC membranes. These are
especially susceptable to bacterial contamination (from the carbon filter).
So you generally install a resin based water softener after the carbon
filter, because this reduces bacterial seeding. So while the CA or CTA
membrane is resistant to chlorine, it's susceptable to biological fouling
and damage. TFC is susceptable to chlorine, but resists fouling much
better. It will get the clear algae slime on it though.
The only reliable and safe way to ensure sanitary drinking water in the long
term from a home RO system is to either regularly remove the membranes and
filters, sanitize, and replace with new membranes and filters,
post-chlorinate the water, or use UV irradiation. Because the membranes are
expensive, and no one wants to chlorinate their drinking water after they've
purified it, UV is the most reliable. Use a 254nm UV sterilizer, and make
certain the flow rate is not exceeded. Ultra-pure water systems use a 185
nm light as well, followed by mixed bed ion exchange. The 254nm kills, and
the 185nm oxidizes the bacterial particles which are then removed by IX.
Regards,
Mike Sharp
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 13:48:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: brewinfo@xnet.com (BrewInfo)
Subject: Re: Fly sparging
>In HBD 4197, March 17, 2003, "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley@charter.net> wrote:
>
>>To my knowledge, the term "fly sparging" is a mistake and came into the HBD
>>lingo as a result of Al Korzonas' visit to a British brewery. Possibly he was
>>having trouble understanding his guide or the guide was mistaken. He even
>>commented on the peculiar term, as I recall.
>>
>>Likely the term is really "on the fly" sparging. Brits use this expression to
>>describe any continuous process.
>>
>>Any British brewer have the answer for sure?
>
>It took a little time, but I am able to rescue Al K's reputation ;-)
>
>In H. S. Corran's 1975 classic _A History of Brewing_ (p.191), he
>quotes J. Levesque's 1853 _The Art of Brewing_:
>
>"Fly Mashing, which is modernly termed Sparging, is to pass the
>succeeding liquors over the goods while the tap is spending."
>
>It seems that sparging as we know it came into practice in Great
>Britain in the mid 19th century. before that, successive mashes were
>used, even though they weren't actually accomplishing any further
>conversion after the first mash.
>
>Jeff
Jeff's right, and in fact, there's a name for those successive mashes
(actually, they would do one mash, run off, add hot water, run off,
add hot water, and run off). It's called Parti Gyle brewing. The
runnings from those successive mashes could be boiled and fermented
separately (it has been speculated that this is where Belgian Tripel,
Dubbel, and Enkel (Single) may have originated) or added together into
one boil. I futher *speculate* that the English term "Running Beer"
could even be related to this. Running Beer was typically a weak
beer.
Thanks Jeff... it appears that it's only marginally easier for Dave to
contradict me when I'm not actively reading HBD to defend myself ;^).
Al.
P.S. For the record... I visited more than a dozen breweries in the UK
and the "guide" was typically the Head Brewmaster (and I had no trouble
understanding them as I'm rather fluent in English). Where I did have
some trouble understanding the Brewmaster was at Zum Uerige, where we did
some of our communication by writing in the condensation on a lagering
tank, since my German isn't up to par with my English. I've since learned
that current labels of Zum Uerige contradict my understanding of the
malt bill there. I've asked several people who were heading to Zum Uerige
to ask if the recipe had changed or if I had misunderstood, but so far,
nobody has reported back.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 15:21:07 -0400
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Indoor Boiling
Mike, the "safest" way to boil indoors is to go electric. Note that safest
is in quotations because while propane can explode and/or poison you with
CO, electricity + wort can put a big hurt on you as well if you're not
careful. But with proper safety precautions, electric is the way to go
indoors. I went electric to escape the unheated garage during the Canadian
winter, and I don't regret it.
There are photos of a couple of various electric systems at the Members of
Barleyment gallery (http://barleyment.neap.net/gallery/), and I have a few
details of my setup at http://www.strangebrew.ca/Drew/electric/.
Good luck with your system!
Drew Avis
Member of Barleyment for Greater Merrickville, Ontario
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 19:20:10 -0400
From: Bruce Millington <bmillington2@comcast.net>
Subject: BONES Bash Results Are In!
The results of the 2003 BONES Bash are now available at www.b-o-n-e-s.com.
The Brewers of the Northeast Section would like to thank all of the
entrants, judges, stewards, and sponsors. We would particularly like to
thank Victory Brewing Co. for once again hosting the event. Congratulations
to Scott Wilson for his Best of Show winning Biere de Garde! See you next
year!
Bruce Millington
BONES
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 19:16:22 -0500
From: Matthew Arnold <marnold@ez-net.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on Mocha Java Stout
> I have a Mocha Java Stout in secondary, and am in need of some of the
> collective wisdom as to how to get the java in, and how much to use.
Here's a datapoint:
I brew a stout that I call "Breakfast Stout" because it contains espresso
and oatmeal. Here's the grain bill for a five gallon batch:
7.5# English Pale Ale malt
1# English 55L Crystal
1# Briess Roasted Barley
.5# Weyermann Melanoidin malt
1# Quaker Quick Oats
When I keg it, I first add two pots (16oz total--these are the little
four-shot espresso pots) of espresso to the keg and rack the beer on top of
it. At first, there will be a very noticable espresso flavor. Soon, it
melds in nicely with the roasted barley, etc., and mainly leaves a
wonderful coffee aroma.
My wife loves this beer and I like it too!
Matt (resubscribed and delurking)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 20:52:28 -0400
From: Michele Maatta <mrmaatta@mtu.edu>
Subject: CAN this error be fixed???
OH, I am sitting here near tears because I bottled and primed 10 gallons of
wonderful homebrew last week. 5 gallons of an outstanding Hefeweisen, and
5 gallons of a Bud Clone for my friends who "really" don't like
beer. Much to my horror, in my recent inheritance of another friend's
brewing supplies, I realized I used malto dextrin rather than corn sugar as
priming sugar. I am a fairly new brewer and wonder if there are some well
seasoned ones that can offer a suggestion? I am horrified, and would like
to somehow salvage these wonderful nectars of the gods :) I know they will
likely be compromised, but it is worth a try!!
Thanks in advance and Cheers!!!
Michele
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 20:50:38 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
Subject: Wired News Booze to Fuel Gadget Batteries
This link describes how they are developing batteries that get their energy
from alcohol
http://www.wired.com/news/gizmos/0,1452,58119,00.html
Here is an excerpt:
*******************************************************************
""You can use any alcohol. You will be able to pour it straight out of the
bottle and into your battery," said team member Nick Akers, a graduate
student. "We have run it on various types. It didn't like carbonated beer
and doesn't seem fond of wine, but any other works fine."
Users won't have to deplete their liquor cabinets to keep their portables
powered up, because all it takes is a few drops. "
****************************************************************
Would a full carboy run my whole house???????????
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 22:26:49 -0400
From: "Christopher Clair" <buzz@netreach.net>
Subject: 10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition
Brewers Unlimited Zany Zymurgists (BUZZ) is proud to announce that the 2003
BUZZ Off home brew competition will be held on Saturday, June 7th at Iron
Hill Brewery & Restaurant in West Chester, PA. For another year we will be
a qualifying event for the prestigious Masters Championship of Amateur
Brewing (MCAB) as well as the Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year. All
BJCP recognized styles including meads and ciders are eligible for entry.
For complete details and forms, please visit the BUZZ web site at
http://hbd.org/buzz.
Entries will be accepted between May 12 and June 1. For drop off and mail
in locations please refer to the BUZZ web site. Please, do not send entries
to Iron Hill.
BJCP Judges and stewards will be needed. If you are interested please
contact me or another committee member (contact information can be found on
the web site). All judges must be BJCP certified.
Good luck and cheers!
Christopher Clair
buzz@netreach.net
http://hbd.org/buzz
"The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer."
- Ancient Egyptian Wisdom, 2200 B.C.
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4215, 04/08/03
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