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HOMEBREW Digest #4155
HOMEBREW Digest #4155 Mon 27 January 2003
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
Diode for Rims (Thomas Rohner)
Thermometers ("Bill Frazier")
Canadian Belgians ("David Craft")
Diode ("A.J. deLange")
Re: Yeast book ("Asher Reed")
RE: "Soft" wheat?!!! (Jeff Renner)
Yeast Culturing (Alan McKay)
Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer (David Harsh)
Re: business ethics ("Dave")
diodes as power reducers & and HLT thought (aa8jzdial)
too much crystal ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
RE: yeast controversy (Brian Lundeen)
Electrical activities?? ("Joey Guy")
Chattanooga Big Bash + heater elements + boil rate ("C.D. Pritchard")
Weizen yeast Genetics (George de Piro)
yeast question ("Dan G.")
Craft brewing job opportunities in South Korea ("Keith Lemcke")
Hefe (darrell.leavitt)
aeration question ("Ben Rodman")
AHA CoC English Pale ale and Bitter Results (LJ Vitt)
HERMS Question ("Greg Collins")
Stop Carboy Chugging ("Jonathan Royce")
RE: Yeast Book ("Doug Hurst")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 11:36:32 +0100
From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Diode for Rims
Hi together
a diode to half the power, generated by a heating element is ok.
The "buzzer-effect" will not take place, unless there is a magnetic
effect in the heating coils. And if it does, the diode wil only half
the frequency from 120 Hz to 60 Hz.(One vs two half-waves.)
But you can only half the power, which is not very flexible.
There are wonderful chips available, which can make such a projekt
very easy. For the sake of polluting the whole mains in your house
and neigbourhood you should use a pulse-burst type of outputstage.
Like the ones used for electronically controlled soldering irons
for example. This works, because a heating element is a slow
reacting device. Pulse-burst would not work with faster devices like
light-bulbs (dimmers)
I just found one at the Philips webpage. You can even download the
datasheet from :
http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/pip/TDA1023_T_CNV_2.html
If you like to buy one from National Semiconductor, they shurely have
something similar as well.
But as i wrote earlier. We are talking about deadly voltage levels
here. (everything above 42 Volts is potentially deadly)
If you can't do it by yourself, or bribe some electronic-wizz with
beer, you might be better of buying one.
Thomas
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:42:33 -0600
From: "Bill Frazier" <billfrazier@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Thermometers
Lou King said "I am hoping the glass thermometer is
accurate as I plan to calibrate the mashtun thermometer
using that."
Lou, you can easily check the accuracy of your thermometers
by testing them in an ice bath and then in boiling water. We
did this with all thermometers when I worked in pharmaceutical
R&D. If you find your thermometer is off by a degree or two
(not uncommon) just attach a label with the info. and adjust for
the error when you measure your mash temperature.
Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:37:55 -0500
From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Canadian Belgians
Greetings,
I just returned from Alberta and the home of Cream Ale. Every bar and
restaurant served some version of Cream Ale. Even the IPA I tried was
more like a Cream Ale than an IPA.......go figure!
There is a question here.
I purchased two Belgian Style Beers brewed by Unibroue Chambly while up
there.
One is called Maudite, appears golden and is 8% with a devil on the label.
Duvel, Strong Golden Ale, style beer?
The other is La Fin Du Monde and is also light colored and 9%, Tripel??
I would like to have these for our Belgian meeting later this year and
want to categorize them correctly.........
Thanks for any help north of the border or close to there.........
David B. Craft
Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club
Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery
Greensboro, NC
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:00:16 +0000
From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel@cox.net>
Subject: Diode
For Martin:
Your 4800 W 240V heater should indeed produce 1200W at 120V (rms)
drawing 10 A (rms). The peak voltage is sqrt(2)*120 = 170V so a 200 PIV
rated diode should serve. It never hurts to have some spare PIV so 300
or even 400 might be a better choice (in case of lightening near the
power lines or an inductive load being swithced off when the diode is in
the circuit). Now when the diode is in the circuit the heater will be
drawing only half the current or 5A rms so that a 10 amp diode should be
fine. It will produce about 0.7*5 = 3.5 watts of heat which will
probably have to be disposed of by heatsinking to something. If the
diode is designed to be mounted to a chassis or other metal surface then
just mounting it to the junction box the switch is going into (assuming
that's metal) should dissipate the heat more than adequately but you
must be very sure that the diode's metal mounting tab (if this is its
form) is not connected to either anode or cathode as many are. For
example one very popular form of a cheap diode is a power transistor
with emitter and base joined together. The mounting tab in this form is
electrically connected to the collector and so will be "hot" in an
active circuit.
BTW, I first saw this clever scheme for halving the power from a heater
here about 10 years ago in a post from Ken Schwarz whom I haven't seen
much of lately in the old Digest. Has anyone else?
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:25:56 +0000
From: "Asher Reed" <clvwpn5@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast book
They have it at http://www.williamsbrewing.com -- Plug their item number,
B75, into their search box to find it. Whether or not they ship to France
is another issue.
>Hello happy brewers,
>Someone mentioned a book by Pierre Rajotte, "First steps in yeast culture".
>Where is it possible to get it? I could not find it on any homebrew site
>(or Amazon or BeerBooks etc.).
>TIA,
>arnaud@brasserie-du-coin.com
>(Vitry-sur-Seine, 5kms from Paris, France)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:28:40 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: "Soft" wheat?!!!
Brian Lundeen <BLundeen@rrc.mb.ca> writes:
>Jeff Renner mocks my manliness when he writes:
>
>> You can grind soft wheat pretty easily in a Corona mill.
>
>I can't comment on using a Corona mill, but I thought I would drop a nut
>trying to hand crank this stuff through my Valley Mill. Needless to say, the
>next Wit project will wait until I have motorized my mill. Of course, I
>didn't purchase my wheat through a trustworthy LHBS, but a health food
>store, instead. It is entirely possible a conversation along the lines of
>the following took place:
>
>Store employee: I got a guy wanting to buy a sack of soft white wheat.
>Grain sales rep: Yeah, I can get you wheat.
>Employee: But is it soft white wheat?
>Rep: (pause) Yeah, sure, the label can say that.
You can tell soft wheat from hard wheat by looking and chewing. Soft
wheat kernels are plump; hard wheat is narrower and somewhat wrinkled
looking in comparison, and almost slightly translucent (not really,
but has that impression about it). Soft wheat chews fairly easily;
hard crunches and you might break a tooth.
Grinding it is a similar matter. It takes two hands on the crank
with hard wheat. With either, I suggest grinding it in two passes at
least. Set the gap wide enough to just break the wheat into pieces
first, then tighten it down to grind into a coarse meal on the second
pass.
Brian mentioned in a private email that his wits turn out too clear.
I've had the same problem when I've kept them very long, but one
trick that I read in a Zymurgy article by Randy Mosher (I think) is
to throw a couple of tablespoons of flour in the boil at the end. It
helps to suspend it in water first so you don't get lumps. This
seems to have given me a bit of haze.
I did this for the ginger wit I made for my daughter's wedding this
summer. It had that double shine that Jackson talks about. It was
also very popular with the guests.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:40:01 -0500
From: Alan McKay <amckay@neap.net>
Subject: Yeast Culturing
Arnaud asks about Pierre Rajotte's book. Arnaud, if you fail to
find it send me email and I can give you the author's contact info.
In the meantime you may be interested in the Yeast Culture FAQ on
my website, written and recently updated by Pete Womack :
http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=20030115194537697
Thanks again, Pete!
cheers,
-Alan
- --
http://www.bodensatz.com/
The Beer Site (tm)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 13:32:49 -0500
From: David Harsh <dharsh@fuse.net>
Subject: Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer
Dan Morey <dan.morey@cnh.com> discusse evaporation rate
>> Bill Tobler asks:
>>
>> How do these big breweries keep the evaporation rate down below 5%?...
They use partially covered kettles - that's how.
Now, to the equations and their applicability
> The equation for evaporation in a column at constant pressure and
> temperature is:
>
> N = (C*Dab/L)*ln((1-xal)/1-xa0))
>
> where,
>
> C is the total molar concentration of "a" (water) and "b" air.
> Dab is mass diffusivity
> L is the path length (surface of wort to the top of the kettle)
> xa0 is the concentration of water vapor at the wort surface.
> xal is the concentration of water vapor in the local atmosphere.
This equation applies to component A diffusing through stagnant
component B. The first thing that is a problem is that air is not a
single component, but for our purposes, the assumption that we can
treat air as a hypothetical "B" molecule is a very good one.
The problem with the equation is that it assume that the air is
stagnant. It is nowhere near stagnant - so you ultimately have two
possibilities:
1. Determine the "effective length" of the air column over the wort.
This means vary L until your data match your theory. Commonly known as
a fudge factor, or cheating.
2. Use a convective mass transfer coefficient:
N = k (Cao - Ca1)
Where Ca_ are the molar concentrations at the surface and atmosphere
k is the convective mass transfer coefficient
Of course, k is only known from first principles for laminar flow (a
fun mathematical derivation if your in to that sort of thing) so your
back to correlating your data to find the actual value of k. The fudge
factor returns!
If you take either approach, your units will be in terms of mass flux:
moles/time/area so you'll need to account for the cross sectional area
of the kettle if you want to apply it to your system.
> the constants C, Dab, will be functions of
> position (height above the wort).
C varies inversely with absolute temperature and Dab will vary with
temp raised to the 1.75 power (roughly). Since they are multiplied
together, the product will only vary with temp raised to the 0.75. If
you do the math, that's only about a 25% variation from boiling to
freezing. (373/273)^.75=1.26 A mean value can be used accurately -
especially compared to the other problems with the model.
> 1. Increase the head space in the boil kettle will decrease
> evaporation.
> 2. Increased humidity will decrease the evaporation rate.
Bingo. Personally, I've found that evaporation rates aren't
significantly different for 5 and 10 gallon batches in the same kettle
though.
> I recommend you measure your evaporation loss over several batches and
> calculate a volume rate per hour and use this for recipe formulation
> instead
> of using X% loss.
I agree. Forget the theory and use a strictly empirical approach.
I taught Chem Eng for about 10 years - I taught mass transfer several
times and also ran the transport phenomena lab - I rotated several mass
transport labs that were based on this sort of model and the key was
analyzing your apparatus to determine the problems because the actual
theory is quite well understood.
Dave Harsh Cincinnati, OH
Bloatarian Brewing League
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:26:02 -0800
From: "Dave" <brewingisloving@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: business ethics
From: Robin Griller <rgriller@chass.utoronto.ca>
Subject: Re: business ethics
Hi all,
>Eric Theiner says that it would be unethical for him to force someone to
>do business with him. I couldn't disagree with him more: if, for example,
>African Americans and Jews are excluded from 'doing business' by, as has
>happened, banks, golf clubs, etc.,
>then it is highly unethical for anyone
>to *not* force said businesses to stop such racist practices. I most
>certainly would favour forcing businesses that exclude people from custom
>on racial grounds to smarten up if they can't be pushed into bankruptcy.
>Robin
Robin,
You have set up a red herring. "Someone" does not carry over or equate to
"African Americans and Jews", or any racial group. Yes, it would be wrong,
as far as I'm concerned, to refuse to do business with a group of people,
unless they were arsonists and detrimental to my place of business, but
refusing to do business with certain unlikable individuals should be a
business owner's right.
Dave Hull
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:17:29 +0000
From: aa8jzdial@attbi.com
Subject: diodes as power reducers & and HLT thought
Greetings:
Some conversations are circulating regarding using a diode to reduce power to
an HLT element. Grand idea. It should work fine. The diode needs to be rated
for the proper voltage and current * 2 as a safety factor. The diode itself
should be cheap. Try radio shack, or if those are not big enough, try a welding
supply shop maybe. 20 to 40 amp stud mounted diode with small aluminum heat
sink to disipate current in amps * .75 volts (amps * volts = power = heat in
diode). 3/4 volt is good swag for the forward voltage drop across the diode.
Reverse voltage drop will be line voltage but there is essentially zero current
in reverse mode. Think GROUND FAULT BREAKERS here!!! Ground HLT very, very
securely. Wear rubber boots when brewing etc. Wet people + 110 vac = dead. Dead
folks can't drink hb.
I have been using an electric heating element for my HLT for quite a while now.
No welding / stainless cutting whatsoever. Observe the lower case "j" to your
left in this sentence. Ignore the little dot and extend the horizontal part of
the top of the letter to the right a scoosh(sp). Copy that with pvc, put a
closed cap on the bottom with the heating element threaded into the recessed
part of the cap. There was the drilling and tapping part. (pretty easy in pvc).
Run the wires up the pipe, thru the tee and out. I encapsulated the connections
around the heating element with JB weld. Correctly sized it will nicely drop
into the Sanke keg. Caution again just like above. Ground and ground fault
protection.
Beware of the liqour level though. I heard a loud pop in mine after the water
drained below the element. Wow was is red!! Second unit has a high limit hooked
to thermocouple with tc tied to the element itself. If the element gets over
about 230 f the high limit trips of all power.
Good luck
Rick Dial (aa8jz)
Muskegon, Mi.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:03:27 -0500
From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk@esper.com>
Subject: too much crystal
I have a friend (yes, it really is a friend, not myself, I promise) who is
an experienced all-grain brewer. He made a stout with White Labs 005 yeast
and followed his usual procedures except for one thing: he didn't have
enough 2-row grain so he used an unusually large amount of crystal malt
(like 40% of the grain bill)
His original gravity was about 1.056 and it is now 1.038 and seems to be
done. He tried pitching more yeast, the temperature was around 68 F, he
aerated at the beginning, etc.
I suspect the problem is the excess amount of crystal malt.
Assuming this is true, is there anything that can be done at this point to
make the beer fermentable? Would Beano help? I don't understand what it is
supposed to do but I remember reading that it can help make a light beer.
What about alpha amylase powder? Doesn't it have to be used at mashing
temperatures?
I suggested he take some of the beer and dilute it 1:1 with water (to make a
tasty low-alcohol beer) or cheap malt liquor (to make something else, don't
know what it would be but I'm sure it would be better than its constituents)
but he doesn't want to try that.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Tom Karnowski
Knoxville TN
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:12:45 -0600
From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen@rrc.mb.ca>
Subject: RE: yeast controversy
Mark (not Mark) writes:
In the real
world, White Labs has to turn a profit, or cut product lines or employees
until they are profitable. I like having eight English ale strains
available with a mouse click, and can't afford the time or money to fly
around England harvesting strains. If this business is unprofitable, you
will find that over the long haul our selection of yeast will be narrowed
down to the best selling strains, and the Platinum series and other
esoteric strains will disappear. This is my point - pay the man for his
work. I guess that even after 15 years in NYC, I still believe that there's
no free ride - you want quality and selection, you pay for it. Or you get
government yeast. Maybe it's just the petulant Texan in me. :^D
I respond with:
I agree, and in fact, I do pay for my yeast just about every batch. For all
my bluster, I have no interest in yeast ranching, and I don't think anyone
in our club does. I have never used someone else's slurry, nor has anyone
wanted one of mine. In almost 40 batches, I think I have only re-pitched
onto a yeast cake twice. The reasons have nothing to do with ethics, more
with laziness. I make a lot of different beers, and the easiest thing for me
to do is just buy a new yeast for whatever I feel like making next.
I just don't want anyone telling me I CAN'T do it if I want to. Maybe it's
just the petulant howling savage in me. ;-)
I will add, I'm actually making efforts to increase Chris White's business.
To the best of my knowledge, White Labs is only distributed up here by a
couple of outlets in Quebec. Through the generosity of White Labs, I've been
able to distribute a number of their yeasts to the members of my homebrew
club, in the hope that they will like the product, and make a push for local
distribution. One LHBS owner, who is in the club, is actively considering
it. This is not out of dissatisfaction with my currently available yeasts. I
like Wyeast, I like DCL. I just want easy access to all of them. I do indeed
want quality and selection.
But as Chuck Heston would say, "You'll pry the Petri dish out of my cold,
dead hands..." ;-)
Cheers
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 02:11:34 -0600
From: "Joey Guy" <jguy@jam.rr.com>
Subject: Electrical activities??
Martin,
In reference to your situation on element control.....
The most obvious way to get a range of control on the element is to use a
control for an electric range burner(cooktop). I think they are called
surface burner switches or infinite switches.
That way you can have more settings than just hi/lo/off and would be less
dangerous. You can get these controls at any major appliance parts store.
Just make sure the ratings on it are in excess of your theoretical amperage
draw. Also just
to make sure, talk to them and ask if there is anything else in the cooktop
circuit with the control and burner. I don't think there is.
Just my $0.02...for what its worth.
Joey Guy
"absolutely, unequivocally, push the envelope!"
- ----- Original Message ----- > Subject: Diode Installation for RIMS
>
> Uh, sir, step away from the RIMS and put down the soldering iron.........
> and while you're at it, put that diode back in your pocket!
>
> /removes tongue from cheek
>
> Seriously Martin, while I can't proclaim to be an expert, and I can offer
no
> "right way," I don't think a diode would be the proper choice of component
> to use. Maybe a resistor, but not a diode. Again, I could be wrong, but
> I'm guessing a diode would create a 60hz buzzer out of your heating
element.
>
> Your calculations for resistance and power look right.
>
> Heatsink? A big resounding YES, albeit to the proper component. You are
> expecting this component to be able to dissipate at least part of the
power
> meant to come off your element, so there -will- be heat generated.
>
> If you have an electric oven, it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it away
from
> the wall and check out the schematics that are probably plastered to the
> back panel. You can then see how they handle the temp control, and follow
> that lead.
>
> Sorry to not have a specific answer and/or recommendation, but at least
> maybe I have added enough doubt?
>
> Jim Yeagley
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 07:35:22
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp@chattanooga.net>
Subject: Chattanooga Big Bash + heater elements + boil rate
Chattanooga's Barley Mob HB club is having a 1-year birthday bash on Feb.
8. Highlights:
Dave Miller as guest speaker
Club competition
Full course dinner
Pub crawl
HBer's in the Chattanooga vicinity are most welcome. Details at:
http://www.barleymobbrewers.org/events.htm
- -----------
On the low evaporation rate boil thread:
I've read that hop utilization will be reduced with a low boil. I've not
experimented with a low boil (usually boil 6 gals down to 5 over an hour)
but I noticed the hop utilization increased appreciably after I started
using a powered stirrer. Another big plus is that cooling with an
immersion cooler is much faster. A stirrer is easy to make from some
copper pipe and a small gear motor- details are on the new boiler link via
the URL below.
- -----------
On mounting heater elements to kegs for HLTs and boilers:
The threads on most taper threaded half coulpings I've tried bottom-out
before the heater gasket is compresssed enough to make a good seal. An
easy fix is to use a spacer cut from gasketing in addition to the gasket
typically comes with the heater element. THANKS go to Rob Wallace for the
tip on merchant couplings! Another thing with straight threads are
fittings with 1" HOSE threads. Haven't seen any in SS, but did find some
in brass.
- -----------
Martin Brungard posted that he manually throttles the heat output of his
RIMS heater by turning the power on/off and had some questions about adding
a diode.
I'd use an electric stove surface element switch instead. Instead of just
the 25% power a diode will provide, you'll have 0-100%. They work by
turning the power on for varing durations on a 5-10 sec. cycle. With with
patience and experience, you may be able to control mash temp. without
turning the circuit on/off manually. All of the switches I've used will
handle 10A at 120VAC and are under $20 from any applicance repair parts
store. One worked great on my old boiler. Anyway, to Martins questions...
Martin posted that the element is rated at 4800W at 240W but operated on
120v and correctly calculates 10A and 1200W without a diode.
Neglecting the ~2V drop across the diode, it will reduce both the voltage
and current by half, so the heater will put out about 60V * 5A = 300W. The
10A, 200 PIV (peak inverse voltage) diode Martin asked about will work, but
I'd defintiely go with a higher PIV rating- they typically cost only
pennies more and will provide a safety factor to handle voltage surges
coming in on the power line. I'd go with a higher current rating also.
>3. Will the diode need a heat sink?
Assumming a conservative forward voltage drop of 2V, the power dissipated
by the diode will be 5A * 2V = 10W. Depending on the diode package, amb.
temp. and amount of convective cooling, a heat sink may not be required.
My sWAG is that one will be needed. One can calculate junction temps./size
heat sinks, but for inexpensive one-off designs like the case at hand, I'd
use the "try it and see" method.
>4. Is this approach still safe? There is a GFCI on the power supply.
Define "safe". <g> To me, there's less risk with it Martin's approach
than, say, using a propane burner in a basement. YMMV....
In addition to the obvious potiential hazards of power circuits, an
additional thing to watch for with power diodes is that one of the two
terminals is usually bonded to and/or is the same thing as the heat sink
attachment provision. Use caution if you heat sink one of these- the heat
sink will be energized if an insulator is not placed between the sink and
diode! Another reason a stove switch looks good...
A GFCI reduces the risk associated with getting oneself between hot and
ground, BUT, it doesn't reduce the need for insulation/isolation,
grounding, etc.
c.d. pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:31:54 -0500
From: George de Piro <george@EvansAle.com>
Subject: Weizen yeast Genetics
Hi all,
I have a vague recollection of somebody, perhaps AJ DeLange, writing in
stuff about the genetics of Weizen yeast. This was quite some time ago.
Specifically, I think there was something said about the gene that produces
4VG being unstable.
If anybody has any documentation on this, I'd be very grateful to hear about
it. It is most unfortunate that neither the Albany Public library nor SUNY
Albany see the need for brewing journals. The ASBC web site yielded no
articles, either.
Thanks, have fun!
George de Piro
Head Brewer, C.H. Evans Brewing Company
at the Albany Pump Station
19 Quackenbush Square
Albany, NY, USA 12207
(518)447-9000
www.EvansAle.com
Brewers of Kick-Ass Brown: Twice declared the Best American Brown Ale in
the USA at the Great American Beer Festival (2000 & 2002)!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:27:20 -0500
From: "Dan G." <daniel@buffnet.net>
Subject: yeast question
To: Greg Man
Here's another question for you (or anyone else) on starters.
What is a good time to let starters work? Hours? Days? I usually do a
starter a couple of hours before the batch and have had good luck but how
much time do you allow?
Thanks.
____________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 22:56:05 -0600
From: "Keith Lemcke" <klemcke@siebelinstitute.com>
Subject: Craft brewing job opportunities in South Korea
The Siebel Institute of Technology would like to advise HBD subscribers of
unique career opportunities in South Korea. SEF Co., Ltd of Seoul, Korea
will be opening multiple microbrewery operations in their country, and they
require trained personnel for the following positions:
-Central brewer
-Controller
-Brewers for individual breweries
Preference will be given to those applicants with the following
qualifications:
-Brewer or Brewmaster who can adjust in Korean culture in certain period
time
-Experience with German brewing techniques
-Energetic, high motivated person
Those interested in applying for any of the listed positions should send
their resume by fax or e-mail to:
Hemi Kim
Section Chief
SEF Co., Ltd
92-4 Chongdam Dong, Gangnam Gu
Seoul, Korea
Tel: 822-514-3131
Fax: 822-517-2812
E-mail: head@sam-e.co.kr
Submission deadline for the Central brewer and Controller positions are May
29, 2003. Submissions for brewing positions can be sent at any time. If you
have any questions regarding these positions, please forward them by e-mail
to head@sam-e.co.kr or by fax to Hemi Kim at 822-517-2812.
Keith Lemcke
Marketing Manager
Siebel Institute of Technology
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:41:24 -0500
From: darrell.leavitt@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Hefe
A recent poster stated that the Wyeast 3068 should be fermented at the
lower end. Does this same advice hold for the WhiteLabs 300 / Hefe?
The temp chart says 68-72 F...
One more thing, have any of you used Rye in a Hefe? I find that it adds
an interesting bite...
..Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:16:42 -0700
From: "Ben Rodman" <brew-cat@earthlink.net>
Subject: aeration question
Hello collective,
Greetings! Long-time lurker, finally able to post. For my starters, I
make a six-gallon 1.040 non-hopped batch and can it in quart-sized jars in
my pressure cooker for later use; it's really nice to just pop one open at
my leisure. However, they're filled from the boil kettle right into the
jars and then pressure-cooked for 15 minutes at about 13 psi, which
obviously precludes aeration until I start each individual jar. My
questions are: could I cool the batch, aerate it in its entirety, and then
can it, or would the heating process (like boiling) drive out the O2 or
contribute to HSA? I haven't really had any problems with aerating the
starter when I open it and add the yeast, but If I could include that step
at canning time it would allow me to leave behind the break when I chill
it, plus save a step when I get the starter rolling. Any experience or
suggestions?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:14:28 -0800 (PST)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4@yahoo.com>
Subject: AHA CoC English Pale ale and Bitter Results
There were 51 entries in the AHA Club only competition for English Pale
ales and Bitters.
The following are the winners:
1st Place
4C Strong Bitter
Roxane Hastings
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Edmonton Homebrewers Guild
2nd place
4B Special Bitter
Thomas Yaeger
Wyandotte, Michigan, USA
Down River Brewers Guild
3rd Place
4C Strong Bitter
Carl Eidbo
Fargo, North Dakota, USA
Prairie Homebrewing Companions
The judging was completed by the Minnesota Timberworts with several
judges from the Minnesota Homebrewers Association. Thank you to the
judges and stewards.
=====
Leo Vitt
Rochester MN
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:01:19 -0500
From: "Greg Collins" <gmc123@bellsouth.net>
Subject: HERMS Question
Greetings:
Just when you thought it was safe....
I'm in process of upgrading my existing equipment to what I believe is
called a "HERMS". I guess if you use a heat exchanger with a pump this
qualifies. I intend on mounting a copper coil in the HLT and plum a "cross
over" to regulate the temperature of the wort. This "cross over" (by-pass)
will divert the flow away from the coil once equilibrium is reached in the
mash with an occasional flow back thru if an additional boost in temperature
is needed.
This concept does seem a bit simple and you can't beat the price, but will
it work effectively? There are no high voltage components, no controllers,
no external hardware to take up more space (other than a pump), and this
does seem to utilize the energy already present from the roaring propane
burner.
After researching some of the more traditional designs that incorporate
heating elements controlled by some, well, controller to regulate, it does
seem there is a need for high voltage. Does anyone using this type system
have an problem with the lights going dim when you plug it in? [O, now that
done it!]
Has anyone else been down this road to "simpler is better" that would share
some of their experiences? What are the pitfalls that lie ahead for such a
simple system? I'm sure that limitations do exist because I haven't had to
refinance my house yet to buy the parts.
TIA
Greg Collins
East, KY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:04:45 -0500
From: "Jonathan Royce" <jtroyce@earthlink.net>
Subject: Stop Carboy Chugging
Today, while emptying sanitizer from my 6 1/2 gallon primary (glass carboy),
I finally figured out a solution to the "chugging" problem that occurs when
a carboy more than 1/2 full is emptied. This chugging problem has been an
annoyance to me since I started brewing because: 1) it causes sanitizer to
splash everywhere, rather than pour in a nice smooth stream down the drain
and 2) it slows the whole process of emptying the carboy.
Anyway, the solution that I "discovered" is to take a length of tubing (mine
was 1/2" ID) that is longer than the carboy is tall and insert it into the
mouth of the carboy until it reaches the bottom. (The other end of the tube
should extend beyond the neck of the carboy.) Now start pouring, keeping the
provides a path for make up air; the fluid flows out around it in a steady
and quick stream.
I'm sure many of you are already doing this, but I was pretty proud of
myself for figuring it out, so I just thought I'd share.
Happy brewing,
Jon
Woodbury Brewing Co.
www.woodburybrewingco.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:53:18 -0600
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: RE: Yeast Book
Arnoud asked where to find First Steps in Yeast Culture by Pierre
Rajotte.
I purchased a copy from my LHBS (I support them when they're worth
supporting) but it's also available from http://www.morebeer.com as
item number BK580. Or from http://www.williamsbrewing.com as item
number B75. I highly recomend this book for anyone interested in
ranching their own yeast. Of course I'm NAJASC.
:Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4155, 01/27/03
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