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HOMEBREW Digest #4087
HOMEBREW Digest #4087 Thu 07 November 2002
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Subject: Beer in Anchorage! (SWrightS)
Rasberry Wheat (frjeff)
Latest dried yeast equivalency (reuben.g.burgoyne)
Stainless conicals (Scott)
Auto-purge fermenter (Bob Southwick)
"Green" tasting beer (Teresa Knezek)
Burton Ale Yeast Recipes ("John Maylone")
Why would hot break re-dissolve when chilled? (Carmen Salvatore)
Re: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? (Fred L Johnson)
Recipe for Wexford Irish Cream? (Ken Schwartz)
RE: New Brewer (Eis) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
("Springstead, Randy")
glenbrew kits (Randy Ricchi)
Looking for sources of 8oz bottles (Bob Pelletier)
The move from Extract to All-Grain (brian.dougan)
Potassium Sorbate in Cider ("John Misrahi")
RE: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? ("Adam Wead")
Re: Mark's Newbie questions (Mark Kempisty)
Keg descriptions (LJ Vitt)
cider & beer in France ("B.R. Rolya")
Plating removal on Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers (Wade Hutchison)
Wyeast dutch castle yeast (3822?) ("John Misrahi")
Spices in AVBC Winter Solstice? (Paul Kensler)
yeast types (Randy Ricchi)
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:25:00 EST
From: SWrightS@aol.com
Subject: Subject: Beer in Anchorage!
>KevinBailey writes:
>Subject: Beer in Anchorage?
>I'll be spending a couple of days in Anchorage
>next week and was wondering if there are any
>can't miss brewpubs to experience while I'm there.
>TIA
For a small city (population ~300,000), Anchorage is blessed with an
abundance of good brewpubs! My favorites include the Snow Goose, with a great
view of Cook Inlet on a clear day, and Moose's Tooth, which has the best
pizza in town. Although not technically a brewpub, Humpy's has about 40
regional microbrews on tap and is a terrific place to meet the locals! Have
fun!!!
Steve Wright
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 04:39:59 +0000
From: frjeff@att.net
Subject: Rasberry Wheat
Brewing a Rasberry Wheat and kit came with a Rasberry extract/concentrate.
I have read that some get better results with real fruit. If so, would welcome
tips. If the concentrate is OK, how many ounces per five gallon batch? Wish to
taste the raspberry, but prefer to still taste the brew.
Batch is still in primary, so have a bit of time to decide. Gratitude!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:59:56 +1000
From: reuben.g.burgoyne@accenture.com
Subject: Latest dried yeast equivalency
I have been experimenting with some of the DCL dried yeasts available,
particularly Safale S-04. I was wondering if anyone
had done any work on documenting dried yeast approximate equivalency to
some of the liquid yeasts available. While
looking I found some work that another brewer had posted in
rec.crafts.brewing back in January. I have expanded it a little
and was wondering if anyone had any comments, corrections or additions.
This is a very rough first stab. Also I'll be honest
that most of my research so far has been paper based and not after any
taste testing. I would love to hear from anyone
who has done any comparisons even if against other yeasts.
Wyeast White Labs Dry yeast
1056 ? Danstar Nottingham
1968 WLP002 Safale S-04
1028 ? Danstar Windsor
2007 ? Saflager S-23
2124 WLP830 Saflager 34/70
2308 ? Saflager S-189
3333 ? Safbrew T-58
3068 WLP300 Safale W-68
? ? Safale K-97
? ? Safale S-33
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
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original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 22:01:55 -0800
From: Scott <sejose@pacbell.net>
Subject: Stainless conicals
Anyone here using the Fermenator? I'm wondering how the weldless racking
port seal holds up and how often the o-ring needs to be replaced.
Thanks
Scott Jose
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:35:18 -0500
From: Bob Southwick <bsouthwick@interfacefire.com>
Subject: Auto-purge fermenter
Greetings to all from Palmer Alaska!
I've been reading this digest a few weeks now and really enjoy it. I have
picked up quite a few tips already thanks to you folks. Thought I would pass
on something that I have come up with.
To date I have been making extract brews in my humble little garage brewery. I
have made a couple dozen batches in the last year or so. They have generally
been fair to pretty damn good... well ok there was that one batch of pond water
near the beginning there but we drank it (choked it down) and were all the
merrier for it. But I digress.
I saw my friends who had months if not years of experience on me making all
their awesome beers, using all their cool gadgets and I was well, a bit
envious.
Okay I admit that I had CO2 envy. All my friends were purging their tanks and
carboys with their fancy CO2 cylinders and doing cool stuff like that. I was
convinced they were making better beer than me, at least in part, because they
were using CO2. Of course I just had to figure something out unti lI could
afford the CO2 equipment.
Sooo I came came up with a way to purge oxygen from my secondary fermenter
without the expense of all that cool equipment.
I use the CO2 created during the primary ferment to purge the oxygen from the
secondary fermenter. Its real simple I replaced the cap of the airlock on the
primary with a second rubber stopper & tube that run into a dual nipple cap on
the secondary. The connecting hose connects to one nipple of the secondary and
a regular airlock connects to the other nipple. I went to the hassle of
connecting racking rods to the under side of each "lid" but have learned that
was probably not necessary. More than enough CO2 is generated during the
primary ferment to purge both containers of all oxygen.
You can see what I am talking about at
http://www.walknbob.com/beer/autopurge.htm
I can't claim that I am the first to think of this BUT I have never seen it
anywhere else and none of my friends had heard of it. So I might have invented
the method.
Hope you find it interesting.
WalknBob Southwick
- -------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:43:20 -0900
From: Teresa Knezek <teresa@mivox.com>
Subject: "Green" tasting beer
Wow... well I don't think I have ever been so enthusiastically
welcomed by any online group I've been involved with before... :-) (I
even heard from a couple of women in offlist email, so there are some
others on the HBD rolls) No worries about neanderthals and tech-geek
talk scaring me off, hehehe... I'm in the internet business
professionally, so I'm used to being totally outnumbered by men, and
spending way too much time obsessing over strange, niggling technical
details of everything I do... I can make a non-web-geek's eyes glaze
over in ten seconds flat when I get going. Hopefully soon I'll be
able to have the same mind numbing effect on non-brewers. :-)
So here's my first "serious" question: When I bottled my batch of
stout, I had a 1/2 bottle that poured last, so I used it as a
taster... hehehe. Impatience is a virtue, really it is!
How much can I expect the beer to "mature" in the bottle? It tasted
somewhat watery, and there was a very "green plant" sort of flavor to
it... a lot like the hops pellets smelled, only a bit stronger.
(Underneath that was a faint, espresso-y/stout-y flavor, and it
smelled great, so there's a good beer in there waiting to get out...
I just know it!)
I've read a lot about fermenting temperature ranges, and it was at
the high end of the temp range I've seen recommended (around 74degF
during primary fermentation, dropping to 68deg during secondary)...
and there was also a little crisis during the transfer to the second
fermenter that probably introduced quite a bit of oxygen into the
brew... would either of those be likely cause the "green" flavor, and
can I expect it to mellow out during the bottle conditioning process?
Or is this just a normal stage of beer development, that will
reliably fade as the beer matures?
Looking forward to brewing my next batch this weekend...
- --
:: Teresa ::
http://rant.mivox.com/
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of supply
and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to live under
the laws of justice and mercy."
-- Wendell Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:51:25 -0800
From: "John Maylone" <mrkoala@netptc.net>
Subject: Burton Ale Yeast Recipes
From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak@siigroup.com>
Subject: burton ale yeast recipes
Pete asks:
What style recipes did you brew with this and did you note the excessive
esters as well (maybe they weren't too bad compared to other yeasts at
78degF)?
Pete,
I brewed light ales with 6-7 pounds of light extract and 1 -1 1/2 pounds
of 15L crystal malt.
I noticed nothing unexpected or unpleasant in the way of smells, but
after 33 years in the aerospace business, I don't claim to have the best
sense of smell. (FWIW, I prime with corn sugar and bottle in swing tops.)
Conversely, I brewed a couple of similar batches using Williams British
Ale II yeast and they were lousy with off smells and tastes.......the
worst two batches I've ever made.
I am quite pleased with the Burton yeast and will use it again (got a
batch planned for December or January), but I'm still hoping that by next
summer I'll have a temperature controlled fridge to ferment in for the
hot months.......if I can raise the thermostat in the house a couple of
degrees, it'll pay for a fridge and thermostatic controller fairly
quickly through the May-September period.
Regards,
John Maylone
Tollhouse, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 06:01:52 -0500
From: Carmen Salvatore <carmen.salvatore@lmco.com>
Subject: Why would hot break re-dissolve when chilled?
Towards the end of the boil I took a sample of wort with a pyrex
measuring cup. When I examined it I could see several small white puffy
flakes floating around attempting to setting to the bottom of the
measuring cup. Hot break I assumed. After a few minutes I looked again.
Most of the flakes had settled and the wort was just about crystal
clear. I was happy. I then poured some of the wort into a hydrometer
test jar. I placed the jar under cold water in the sink to cool the
sample down. As soon as the sample began to cool the few flakes of hot
break that were still suspended in the wort re-dissolved and now the
wort in the test jar was no longer clear but cloudy/murky. I took my
gravity reading and left the sample in the test jar to see if it would
clear up again. Over an hour later it was only slightly clearer but no
where near what it had been when hot.
Any idea why this would happen?
Carm
brewing in Utica, NY
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 07:44:35 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson@portbridge.com>
Subject: Re: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens?
Steven Yavorski asks why Iodophor attacks rubber and if this is a problem
with plastics.
The real chemists in this group can provide a more thorough (read as
accurate) answer to Steven's questions about Iodophor, but I'll give it a
stab anyway. Iodine will add across C=C double bonds, breaking the molecule
at the location of these covalent bonds. These are apparently extensive in
rubber and hence the rubber deteriorates rapidly. This activity is at least
partly (perhaps major) the way that iodine and chlorine work to sanitize.
They do the same thing to the lipids in bacterial cell walls and in anything
else, for that matter, that has unsaturated lipids or doubly-bonded carbons.
Once broken, the bonds are effectively always broken.
It occurs to some degree in plastics, although to a much lesser degree or
effectively not at all, depending upon the type of plastic. (Chemists,
please jump in here anytime.)
I keep a plastic bucket full of dilute iodophor for storing plastic parts,
so they are always ready when I need them. Some parts stain (but work),
others stain very little. I have plastic (vinyl?) tubing that is
essentially opaque but is still flexible after months of storage in this
bucket. It is still quite usable. Early on I was throwing rubber stoppers
in, with the same result you have experienced. Now I sanitize anything that
is rubber in Iodophor only immediately before using it. I do primary
fermentations in plastic buckets which stain pretty quickly and heavily, so
I only sanitize these with Iodophor just prior to use.
- --
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 06:05:59 -0700
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Recipe for Wexford Irish Cream?
Anyone have a recipe for Wexford Irish Cream ale?
- --
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer
E-mail: kenbob@elp.rr.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:43:44 -0500
From: "Jones, Steve (Eis) - Eastman" <stjones@eastman.com>
Subject: RE: New Brewer
Welcome, Teresa.
As Jeff has pointed out, most of the posters on this digest are male. Our
club of 40 odd members (and I do mean ODD) has just 2 members of the female
persuasion. It just seems a matter of fact that the vast majority of
homebrewers are male, but the balance has been tipped just a little since
you joined!
I want to point out that there are online resources other than the HBD
(sorry guys, but its true), though it is still the one that I read every
morning with my coffee.
There are a couple of homebrewing forums that are interactive in nature, and
a post there is often answered within an hour. They are at
http://hbd.org/forums (on the HBD server), and
http://forum.northernbrewer.com (who happen to be this year's sponsor of the
HBD). They are both similar in nature, and each one has a few women brewers
who post on a regular basis.
Steve Jones
Johnson City, TN
[421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian
State of Franklin Homebrewers http://hbd.org/franklin
Member: AHA, AHA Board of Advisors, and AHA Liaison
Have a suggestion on improving the AHA? email me at stevejones@aob.org
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:56:12 -0500
From: "Springstead, Randy" <Randy.Springstead@HollandUSA.com>
Subject:
Hello Fellow Brewers,
I'm also new to the brewing and read HBD regularly. Thanks to all of you
who freely give advice and opinions, it is a great help in sorting things
out and expanding my knowledge of this wonderful hobby.
I am looking for opinions and suggestions (no need to reinvent the wheel) on
purchasing a burner for my garage brewing.
1-BTU's How many and why?
2-Natural or LP
3-Most burner for the buck
4-Best built (no regard to cost)
5-Best temperature control
6-Where to purchase
7-Any thing else I need to consider
I'm hoping to get the skinny as to do this once and be very pleased with my
purchase decision.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Randall Springstead
springs28@attbi.com
aka Oldshoe
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:13:50 -0500
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: glenbrew kits
I brewed a few Glenbrew kits about 10 years ago, just before I started
all-grain brewing. The one I thought was really good was the Dortmund
lager kit. They didn't use knottingham yeast then, or at least it wasn't
packaged as such. I believe it was called "secret yeast", or Glenbrew
yeast or something like that. The beer was very clean tasting, like a
light colored, balanced lager. At the time, I hadn't been exposed to
European or micro brews, and my reference was standard American swill.
The Dortmunder lager had more flavor than swill, but was smooth enough
that it was very much liked by my swill drinking friends.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:47:18 -0500
From: Bob Pelletier <rp@ihrsa.org>
Subject: Looking for sources of 8oz bottles
I am going to be brewing a Barley wine soon and was looking for a source. I
found a few websites that will sell them for $15/case but I figured that I
can do better than that.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:45:15 -0500
From: brian.dougan@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: The move from Extract to All-Grain
I am fairly sure this topic has been well covered in the HBD, but I am looking
for some tips, hints and other helpful bits. As my one year anniversary of
brewing approaches, I am feeling more and more like it may be time to take the
step into the realm of All-Grain. I would appreciate private e-mails (for ease
of keeping things sorted as well as not boring those who have read, read and re-
read items on this topic many times) that share knowledge and other useful bits
(equipment, set-up, etc.) that will help an extract brewer take that next
step. Thanks in advance.
-Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:55:13 -0500
From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin@sprint.ca>
Subject: Potassium Sorbate in Cider
Hi all,
I started a batch of cider yesterday with a blend of store bought ciders. I
used straight juice and looked for ones that didnt list anything other than
apple juice or citric acid(vitamin C) on the ingredient list. I pitched a
few packets of Coopers ale yeast. Today, there is no activity. Zero. I
suspect there may have been Potassium sorbate or some other preservative
that wasnt listed. Is that legal? Is there a way around this ie pitching
massive amounts of yeast, or is all lost?
John
Pothole? Thats luxury! I have to ferment directly in my mouth. On brew
day I fill up my mouth with wort in the am and drop a few yeast cells in and
3 hours later I swallow. Wish I had a pothole to ferment in. -Mike Brennan
on the HBD
"Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 08:37:15 -0700
From: "Adam Wead" <a_wead@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens?
I, too, have had some problems with plastics in idophor.
I sanitized a keg with some idophor, and left it in for 20 minutes,
including the dispensing line.
After that, I noticed an idophor smell comming from the beer. However, if I
let the beer run through the line for a few seconds, the smell was gone.
What I think happened was the plastic beer line absorbed some of the idophor
odor because it was left in there for so long. Then, the odor passed to the
beer when it ran through...but only to the amount that was still remaining
in the line after each "pull" from the keg. I also might have had too high
a concentration of idophor to begin with.
I just recently read an article on-line about the use of idophor, and
according to that article, 60 second contact with an idophor solution is
enough to santize. Forgive me, but I don't have the url for the article.
Anyone have it handy?
Although a properly dilluted solution of idophor, at the right length of
time, isn't supposed to add any off-odors, I'm still hestitant to use it on
plastics (like my primary fermenter) on account of what happend to my beer
line. I do use it on non-porous stuff like kegs and carboys.
Any other pearls of wisdom?
Adam Wead
(Bloomington, IN)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 10:57:23 -0500
From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty@pav.research.panasonic.com>
Subject: Re: Mark's Newbie questions
Mark had some newbie questions to which there have been many great and
straightforward answers. I am
just going to toss in my $0.02 (why did IBM ever drop the cent symbol
from the PC keyboard) on a
couple of items.
I gave up boiling bottle caps when I noticed rust on the edges. I also
found I had to wait a bit until they
cooled. I just put all that I plan to use plus a few extra in a stainer
and dunk in Iodaphor, shake to dislodge
air pockets, let it sit a couple of minutes, take out and shake to
drain.
I have never made labels for bottles. I typically buy plain caps and
use a Sharpie to write a letter code on
the top. FLP for the Fuller's London Pride clone I just made, P for
porter, S for stout, K for kolsch, etc. I
typically do not have more than one of any style at a time. I include
the code in my ProMash notes for
the batch. Once the Sharpie ink dries, it doesn't come off. Probably
why they call it a permanent marker.
I have also recently gotten into the habit of tossing a note in the case
with the brew name, OG, FG, IBU,
ABV and date brewed. Last night I made a little table in Word with all
this info and printed it out to tape
on my Tap-A-Draft kegs and put in the case. The table is about 2"x2"
after trimming. Nothing fancy.
I recently added a spigot to my bottling bucket which has made that step
much easier. No more trying
to juggle starting a siphon and depress the bottle filler tip at the
same time. I typically sanitize a tall glass
to use for getting the line purged. The clear glass lets me see what's
happening so I do not waste too
much beer. I also get a taste test when I am done.
The biggest improvement to my brews has been the full boil. I got one
of the old SABCO beer keg cookers
and their safety burner. Watch if you use a beer keg for boiling as it
has a chine to protect the lower dome
and let the thing sit flat. Some cookers will not let the chine sit
completely on the burner but a flat bottomed
pot would be fine. The SABCO cooker uses spokes as the supporting means
so the keg sits flat. Five or more
gallons of spilled boiling wort is DANGEROUS not to mention sad!.
(NAYY)
To all:
BTW my SABCO beer keg cooker only has a half coupling on its drain
port. After a lot of staring at it and thought, I came up with a way to
attach a valve outside and a siphon on the inside using the half
coupling. Let me know if you want the secret.
- --
Take care,
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:11:16 -0800 (PST)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4@yahoo.com>
Subject: Keg descriptions
>I am currently trying to acquire some kegs, for both serving and to convert
>into pots, HLTs, mash tuns, etc.. I have access to an experienced welder.
>Cornelius kegs (soda kegs) - come in 3, 5, 10 gal varieties - pin-lock or
>ball-lock, used for serving, conditioning, fermenting. What kind of
>conversions can be performed on them?
The pin-lock and ball-lock valves can be removed. They are threaded,
and you can install the other type valve yourself. I suggest you
want to choose the valve type you want and make everything you have
the same. If you frequently interact with other homebrewers, you might
make the same choice they made. Everyone in my club uses ball lock,
and we can hook up our kegs to each other's regulators or taps.
>Ball tap type - come in half bbl., quarter bbl, sixth bbl - larger ones can
>have lids cut off to be converted into kettles, with manifolds and drains
>added.
>Sankey - come in half bbl., quarter bbl? - two prong tap and wooden bung in
>side - Can these be used as a kettle?
Sorry, I think you mixed up the names.
Hoff-Stevens is the 2 prong tap, and wooden bug on the side.
Sankey kegs are usually straight sided, and have a ball in the tap system.
Sankey kegs are the one's I frequently see turned into kettles, mash tuns,
hot liquor tanks.
I think they are all stainless. I once talked to someone at SABCO
(http://www.kegs.com/) who said he didn't think there were aluminum kegs
on the market.
=====
Leo Vitt
Rochester MN
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 12:27:03 -0400
From: "B.R. Rolya" <br@triagemusic.com>
Subject: cider & beer in France
Warren writes:
> I'm planning to visit Northern France in a few weeks and was
>wondering if anybody could make recommendations for things to see that
>would be interesting to a brewer or cider maker. I've found quite a bit
>of info on French brewing, though I don't know if any of those breweries
>offer tours in english. I'm really at a loss for cider info. I know the
>French produce great cider in the Normandy area, but how would one find
>out more? Any english tours?
In Normandy, there is "La Route du Cidre" (Cider Road). I can't remember
if I picked up the brochure/map at the French Tourism office in New York or
if I got it in Normandy (or, I might be confusing this map with something
completely different and perhaps I printed out the map at
http://routeducidre.free.fr/ ). In any case, the route is marked by road
signs with (appropriately enough) an apple on it and the name of the
farm/cidrerie. You can purchase cider (apple & pear), pommeau (an aperitif
made from a blend of cider & calvados - highly recommended!), and often
calvados at all of the places listed. Some of them are rather fancy and
some are tiny family farms with 80 year old farmers reminiscing about the
War and pouring very potent calvados in their tasting rooms.
As for tours, I think that a few do offer them (I arranged private tours in
advance thanks to a contact here in the US) but I'm not certain as to how
many speak english (since I speak french I didn't pay attention to that).
I would think that the bigger places speak english; it's the smaller ones
that you might have problems with. The best thing to do is to go to a
tourist office once you are in Normandy. (One place that I'm almost
certain does have english tours is Christian Drouin near Deauville.)
One producer that I really enjoyed was Etienne Dupont in Victot-Pontfol.
His cider is now available in the US and he also makes some wonderful
calvados.
Many restaurants use cider and calvados in their cooking; it's worth trying
those dishes (most of which must contain at least one kilo of butter and/or
cream; I think it's the law in Normandy...)
As for beer, about 5 years ago, I tried to visit some of the breweries in
Northern France but didn't have much luck. Most of the ones that I called
seemed very confused as to why someone would want to come and visit, even
after I explained that I was visiting from the US, was a homebrewer, etc.
The comments ranged from, "We are not brewing today" to "Why?!?" to "No" to
"A visit? Of the brewery? But it is too cold in there!" [this was in
january]. Others were only open in the summer or for limited hours on the
weekends. Another problem was that we weren't planning on renting a car
for this part of the trip and many of the breweries are not close to train
stations or are only serviced by local lines that run once or twice a day.
There was one brewery whose name escapes me at the moment but it's listed
in Michael Jackson and is affiliated with a restaurant; they were very
friendly and although the brewery was closed for tours at the time, they
offered to make a reservation at the restaurant and take the time to talk
to us there (unfortunately we weren't able to take them up on their offer
so I can't report on the quality of the beer/food).
You might have better luck if you check with the tourist office once you
are there; I was simply calling from Paris to see if a day trip would be
worth it (we ended up taking the train to Lille instead - a small but nice
city to visit although the brewpub there, Les 3 Brasseurs, also now with
branches in Paris, Strasbourg, and Montreal, is not exceptional).
hope this helps!
- BR Rolya
Malted Barley Appreciation Society
NYC
http://hbd.org/mbas/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 14:22:15 -0500
From: Wade Hutchison <whutchis@bucknell.edu>
Subject: Plating removal on Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers
I'm way behind on my digests, but I thought I'd better chime in here.
There is one common chemical out there that can (and will, and has)
removed (some of) the plating from a Phils-Philler. Bleach.
I used to sanitize my equipment in bleach, and I once soaked my
Philler in bleach water (about 1 cap full to the gallon) overnight.
In the morning the water had turned greenish, and the plating was
missing in a neat rim at the top of the filler. I guess the combination
of air, bleach and chrome led to rapid dissolution of the plating and some
of the brass/copper underneath. So - be careful with that bleach on
plated products.
Just an FYI. I still use the Philler, and have no off-flavors that I've
noticed.
-----wade hutchison
whutchis@bucknell.edu
Brewing at 41deg 00' N by 76deg 50' W
597.6 Klicks, 101.5 deg. Rennerian
Milton, PA 17847
"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'" ~ Dave Barry
At 11:11 PM 10/20/2002, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 17:35:28 -0400
>From: "Dan Listermann" <dan@listermann.com>
>Subject: Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers
>
>Paul Kensler writes that he believes that his taps are losing chrome plating
>to beer exposure.
>I discussed this with my plater. He really does not see how this could
>happen saying that chrome needs some real vulgar chemicals ( hydrochloric
>acid) or electricity to come off. Chrome is electroplated and, unless
>anodes are put inside things which is rather difficult and expensive, it
>will not plate interior areas. Maybe there is a misperception here that
>assumes that the part was chrome plated inside
>and out and since the beer is exposed to the inside and there is no chrome
>there, the beer removed it when it may have never been there to begin with.
>
>The plater is going to do a little research to see if there is anything he
>can turn up.
>
>Dan Listermann
>
>Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com
>
>Free shipping for orders greater than $35
>and East of the Mighty Miss.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 17:01:04 -0500
From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin@sprint.ca>
Subject: Wyeast dutch castle yeast (3822?)
Hi all,
I recently ordered a packet of this.
Anyone have any experience with this seasonal strain?
thanks
John Misrahi
Montreal, Canada
Pothole? Thats luxury! I have to ferment directly in my mouth. On brew
day I fill up my mouth with wort in the am and drop a few yeast cells in and
3 hours later I swallow. Wish I had a pothole to ferment in. -Mike Brennan
on the HBD
"Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 19:52:15 -0500
From: Paul Kensler <pkensler@comcast.net>
Subject: Spices in AVBC Winter Solstice?
Anyone have first-hand knowledge, educated opinions, or WAGs on the spices
used in Anderson Valley's Winter Solstice Ale? Does their spice blend
change from year to year? The recently released 2002 is the first time I've
had it, and I can't quite put my finger on the flavor...
Cheers,
Paul Kensler
Gaithersburg, MD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 21:50:24 -0500
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: yeast types
I went through all my Zymurgy's and Brewing Techniques tonight trying to
find a certain article on the difference between lager yeasts, but to no avail.
There was an article a few years ago in one of those magazines which said
that all lager yeasts are divided into two categories. I'm going to guess
the names of these categories since I couldn't find the article in question
to verify. I believe the two types were Carlsberg and Tuborg.
Assuming that is correct, I think it was said that the Carlsberg types
threw sulfur during fermentation and the Tuborg types did not. They listed
a few of the yeast brands available to homebrewers which were Carlsberg
types, but I think they only listed one which was a Tuborg type.
What I would like to know is which Wyeast, Brewtek, or White Labs yeasts
are Tuborg type lager yeasts. Thanks for any info you can provide.
Randy Ricchi
Living in the land soon to be the great white north
Hancock, Michigan
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4087, 11/07/02
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