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HOMEBREW Digest #4004
HOMEBREW Digest #4004 Thu 01 August 2002
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: CO2 Cannisters - Newbie Question (Kent Fletcher)
Re: Carboy Caps for Syphon Starting (Kent Fletcher)
Corney Keg Repair (Kent Fletcher)
Re: smoking malt ("Bryan L. Gros")
RE: Primary temps. ("Parker Dutro")
Beer Joints in Boston (Ballsacius)
Re: CO2 Cannisters - Newbie Question ("Larry Bristol")
Re: Corney Keg Repair ("Larry Bristol")
re: propane?? (Paul Kensler)
Re: Re: Wyoming Hops (Jeff Renner)
Re: Plastic vs Glass ("Pete Calinski")
p-lambic bottling (Keith Busby)
Re: Siphon Starter (Patrick.Humphrey)
Re: smoking malt (Jeff Renner)
Propane Deep Fft Fryers ("Jim")
RE: White Labs Hefeweizen IV yeast ("Doug Hurst")
RE: CCCA, Oh, Canada? ("Drew Avis")
RE: Propane ("Joseph Marsh")
Weissheimer Pils malt: does it need a protein rest? (LJ Vitt)
fermenting in hot weather ("dave holt")
Bleach ("dave holt")
Carboy caps and stupid brewer trick (Alan Meeker)
Maine brewpubs ("ben rodman")
lagering fridges (Victor.E.Franklin)
The Thirsty Traveller (Nathan Kanous)
Hop harvest and glass ("John O'Connell at Work")
Carboy caps as syphon starter ("Richard Johnson")
Cleveland Homebrew Club Meetings? (mohrstrom)
Brewmaster for Hire ("AOB Moderator")
A Toast to a Successful American Beer Month ("Monica Tall")
Vanilla Brew ("chris eidson")
Queen of Beers (DAWNE TRENT & DAVID BRATTSTROM)
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 18:40:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CO2 Cannisters - Newbie Question
Michael Fross assked about CO2 cylinders:
>Anyway, I have an old Oxygen tank that my Dad used
>when he was sick. It appears to be about 5 lbs and
>I was wondering if it could be used for CO2.
> - Would anyplace fill it if it was not designed
> for CO2?
> - Is the tank compatible with CO2?
> - It will most likely need certification as it
> is over 10 years old. Can you have this done when
> it's filled?
The valve outlet will not accept a CO2 regulator, and
also would not mate ut to the nozzle used to fill CO2.
While it may be possible to have the valve replaced
with the correect one (CGA #320, I believe), I don't
believe this would be economical, espacially since the
cylinder needs to by hydro-tested. Check with a tavern
supplier about buying a used cylinder, it would
probably cost you less than converitng the O2 unit. Or
check the yellow pages under Gas - Industrial &
Medical, you may be able to buy a used cylinder at the
filling station. Better yet, buy a new aluminum
cylinder, they're a lot easier on the back.
Kent Fletcher
brewing in So Cal
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Carboy Caps for Syphon Starting
Nils Hedglin asked about:
>I recently purchased one of those carboy caps with 2
>pipes in the top. You put the racking tube through
>one, & blow through >the other to start the syphon.
>The only 2 batches I've used this cap with are the
>only 2 batches I've had come out infected. (snip)
>Has anyone else seen problems with this type of cap?
Nils,
I use these caps on all of my carboys. "Blowing" your
carboy is asking for trouble, in more ways than one,
probably. Use CO2 to start your siphon. Unscrew the
1/4" flare fitting from your Gas QD, you can just
press it against the smaller cap tube for the quick
shot of gas needed to get the flow started. If you're
not into kegging, you can get one of the little CO2
injectors that use a cartridge, available at your LHBS
or web-accessible supplier(e.g. St. Pats or More
Beer).
Kent Fletcher
brewing in So Cal
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 20:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew@yahoo.com>
Subject: Corney Keg Repair
Richard Schmittdiel asked about:
>Has anyone ever successfully glued the rubber bottom
>back onto a corney keg? If so, what kind and amount
>of glue or cement did you use?
Richard,
Contact cement (aka Rubber Cement) should work well.
As to surface prep, both parts should be as clean as
possible. Apply glue to both parts and allow to dry
til just tacky (usually 10 15 minutes), and stick them
together firmly, bond will be instant.
Kent Fletcher
brewing in So Cal
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 21:54:14 -0700
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <bgros@aggienetwork.com>
Subject: Re: smoking malt
At 05:04 PM 7/30/2002, <JeffNGladish@ij.net> wrote, in reply to my
question about smoking malt:
><snip>
>
>The Germans use Beechwood for their Rauchbiers, but I've found that most
>fruit trees work well. In Florida and California Citrus wood is excellent.
> Avoid using strong-flavored woods like Hickory or Mesquite unless you
>really want it to taste like barbeque.
I did make it to Bamberg this spring. I'm not necessarily trying to
recreate the rauchbiers I tried there, but it was great to get to try
them first hand.
Tried the beer at Schlenferla first, which had a huge smoke aroma.
What was interesting was I found the smoke very much like meat,
bacon, rather than wood smoke. The flavor wasn't as intensely
smoky. Maybe it is the wood they use to smoke the malt? The
Spezial rauchbier was much more subtle. In hindsight, I should
have tried them in the opposite order.
Incidentally, Schlenferla had a fabulous schwarzbier--malty,
chocolately, dry and roasty. But I digress...
Bryan Gros bgros@aggienetwork.com
Oakland, CA
Draught Board Homebrew Club
http://www.draughtboard.org
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 23:26:53 -0700
From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128@edwardwadsworth.com>
Subject: RE: Primary temps.
David,
I built and just put to use a device called "The Son of Fermentation
Chiller" An engineer designed it, and it works great! It's basically an
insulated box with two compartmentsl: one for the fermenter and another
for frozen jugs of ice. The idea is that a 3 inch fan is wired to a
thermostat and the thermostat is set in the fermentation chamber. The
fan is in the top and lives in the wall separating the ice chamber from
the fermentation chamber. When the thermostat measures the room temp as
too warm (allowing you to set the thing at varying temps.) it switches
the fan on, which sucks ice cold air from the ice chamber into the ice.
chamber. It's way more detailed, but total cost to build was about
eighty dollars, I went with higher end equipment and all new stuff. I
could have built it for under 60 easily, but I was eager. Anyway, if
you are interested there is a website:
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/chiller/chiller.html
Copy and paste it to your browser. Good luck
Parker Dutro
Portland, OR
"Excuse me doctor, but I think I know a little something about
medicine!"
-Homer Simpson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:08:40 EDT
From: Ballsacius@aol.com
Subject: Beer Joints in Boston
My wife is whisking me away for our anniversary and we will be staying in
Boston Mass, for 3 days and was wondering if I could get information as to
where to get a good brew. I would be interested in any "Brewpub", Brewery,
local taproom, etc. Thanks for the advice.
***is Boston really as expensive as EVERYONE has told us????***
Bob Fesmire
Madman Brewery
Downingtown, PA
Ballsacius@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 07:53:38 -0500
From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry@DoubleLuck.com>
Subject: Re: CO2 Cannisters - Newbie Question
On Mon, 29 Jul 2002 07:03:56 -0500, Michael Fross <michael@fross.org>
wrote:
>Anyway, I have an old Oxygen tank that my Dad used when he was sick.
>It appears to be about 5 lbs and I was wondering if it could be used
>for CO2.
I cannot remember how the pressure for an O2 tank compares to CO2, but
it would be OK (technically) if an O2 tank is built to withstand higher
pressure than a CO2 tank. But the reality is that I doubt that you
would find anyone willing to fill an O2 tank with CO2 (Can you say
"liability"?). Your best bet is to get a tank that is designed and
marked for CO2 usage.
Generally speaking, you do not take an empty tank down to your local
CO2 store and have them refill it while you wait. (There are
exceptions, of course. DeFalco's, my LHBS in Houston, will refill a 5#
tank on site.) Instead, you exchange your empty tank for a full one.
The empty tank gets refilled eventually, and is returned to the pool.
The next time you exchange an empty tank, you just might get the
original one back (but do not count on ever seeing it again).
If you convince the CO2 merchant that you are going to be giving him
repeat CO2 business, he/she just MIGHT be willing to exchange your
empty O2 tank for a full CO2 tank. He probably sells other gasses
besides CO2, and maybe can do something useful with an O2 tank, so he
could look on this as an even exchange.
> I have not yet gotten a CO2 tank (or found a place to fill them yet.
> (If anyone knows of a place or two in the SW suburbs of Chicago....)
Look in the yellow pages under "Welding Equipment and Supplies" for a
store in your area. They sell various gasses, such as acetylene,
oxygen, and CO2. There is a national company called PraxAir
(Yabbadabbadoo) that almost certainly has a location near you.
> - It will most likely need certification as it is over 10 years old.
>Can you have this done when it's filled?
It MUST be done before the tank is filled. Like refilling the tanks,
however, this is probably not done on site at a local store. Instead,
the tank is sent out to a more central facility that with the
appropriate equipment.
When you use the tank exchange method, of course, this is never a
problem. If your CO2 store is willing to exchange your O2 tank for a
CO2 tank, they may want you to pay for recertifying the O2 tank. Since
I have never had to have a tank recertified, I do not know the cost,
but it would surely be a lot less than buying a new tank!
Regards,
Larry Bristol
Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2]
http://www.doubleluck.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:07:30 -0500
From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry@DoubleLuck.com>
Subject: Re: Corney Keg Repair
On Mon, 29 Jul 2002 15:47:48 -0700, Richard.Schmittdiel@sce.com wrote:
> Has anyone ever successfully glued the rubber bottom back onto a
> corney keg? If so, what kind and amount of glue or cement did you
> use? Surface preparation? Other tips or suggestions in this area?
> I hate to kiss off an otherwise perfectly good ball lock keg.
I have glued the rubber TOP back onto a corney keg. Admittedly, it was
not completely loose, but I did not dare lift it with the handles. I
used "Liquid Nails". With no surface preparation at all, I merely
lifted the edge, squeezed in as much as I could, and pressed it back
down. You know --- just ignore the directions on the tube. <g>
Regards,
Larry Bristol
Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2]
http://www.doubleluck.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 06:20:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler@yahoo.com>
Subject: re: propane??
Eric,
A typical propane tank that you'd use for a gas grill
will last several batches - depending on whether or
not you do a multi-step mash or a single-infusion, how
long your boil is, how much wort you boil, etc. But
you'll get several (3 - 5?) out of one tank.
I suspect that once you've tried it, you'll never go
back to brewing indoors (unless the weather is really
uncooperative - you can't use propane burners
indoors).
My only suggestion is to buy a big enough burner stand
for future growth. Typical turkey fryers are OK for
small pots (a turkey fryer uses a skinny tall pot),
but the diameter of their stand isn't big enough to
support a typical homebrewer's converted keg. If you
think you might some day get one of these kegs, you
might want to just pay the extra money now and get a
bigger burner stand. If you're like me, you'll enjoy
brewing outdoors on propane so much you'll end up with
a converted keg and bigger burner within a year
anyway. Take a look at Brewer's Resource's propane
burner and stand at www.brewtek.com. I'm sure you can
find a similar stand at other homebrew stores.
Alternately, if you're handy, you can build your own
stand and just buy the burner itself.
Hope this helps,
Paul Kensler
Gaithersburg, MD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:19:42 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Wyoming Hops
I wrote
>Len Olson of Hopunion
I don't know who Len Olson is. What I meant to write was Ralph
Olson. It was a brain fart that made me write Len.
BTW, Hopunion's web site http://www.hopunion.com/ is a great resource
- worth poking around in. Be sure to check out the non-PC beer humor
at http://www.hopunion.com/light.html. I suspect that this page is
thanks to Ralph (not Len).
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:24:24 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic vs Glass
Dave Holt asks, "Does anyone use bleach with glass fermenters?"
Well, I use plastic for primary, glass for secondary. When not fermenting
(which is all too often lately), all fermenters are stored filled with a
bleach solution (2 oz in 5 gal., 3 oz in 7 gal.). Turkey baster and various
lengths of tubing are also left in the plastic fermenter.
I can't taste "beach" in my beer but who am I to say.
I have used the plastic fermenter since 1996. I have never used anything
stiffer than a sponge to clean it.
I have seen a number of posts here over the years that caution that storing
a bleach solution in plastic can ruin the plastic. So far, 6 years of
bleach solution haven't caused that.
Years ago, there were one or more posts here that said something to the
effect that the "bleach" in a bleach solution evaporates in a few days. The
odor that lingers is the result of the matter that the bleach has worked on.
(If my Alzheimer's hasn't failed me.)
That's my story and I might stick to it.
Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY
***********************************************************
*My goal:
* Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
* (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:35:32 -0500
From: Keith Busby <kbusby@facstaff.wisc.edu>
Subject: p-lambic bottling
I will soon be bottling a 5-gal batch of p-lambic and another of p-kriek
brewed about a year ago. What's the wisdom on adding fresh yeast and sugar
at bottling? A neutral ale yeast? How much? A small or XL smack pack, or
should I build it up? Amounts of priming sugar?
Private replies are fine. TIA and TTFN.
Keith Busby
Keith Busby
Professor of French and Chair
University of Wisconsin-Madison
Department of French and Italian
618 Van Hise Hall
Madison, WI 53706
(608) 262-3941
(608) 265-3892 (fax)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:48:40 -0500
From: Patrick.Humphrey@abbott.com
Subject: Re: Siphon Starter
Hi Everyone,
Nils had a question regarding starting a siphon with a carboy cap. I have not
used one of these but have a different method to start a siphon that is very
simple.
I purchased a polyethylene "T" and some beverage tubing from my local hardware
store. I cut the tubing to a 6 foot length and made another about 4 feet in
length. I inserted the ends of the tubing onto the "T" and cut another piece
of tubing that was about 6 inches long. I have a strong pinch clamp that
allows me to pinch off the tubing very quickly. The tubing that I have is also
very soft and flexible.
>From carboy (6 foot piece)
to short (6 inch tubing)
To collection vessel (4 foot piece)
When I want to start a siphon, I pinch off the tubing below the "T" and suck
on the short piece of tubing. When the liquid gets close to the "T", I open
the tubing below the "T" and pinch off the tubing that I suck on. If you time
it properly, you can pinch off the side tubing before it gets to your mouth
(or even near it) and there is no risk of contaminating your liquid.
Everything is pre sanitized of course.
Works great for me and don't need any commercial "siphon starter".
Cheers,
Pat Humphrey
Lake Villa, IL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:48:21 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: smoking malt
Jeff Gladish <JeffNGladish@ij.net> of Tampa wrote
>I've been smoking my own malt for many years now, looking for the
>perfect smoked beer, (not to mention the biggest papers I can find)
Reminds me of the Beverly Hillbillies episode when some hippies
visited the Clampetts and heard that Granny smoked crawdads. Were
they impressed!
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:56:29 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
From: "Jim" <bermingham@antennaproducts.com>
Subject: Propane Deep Fft Fryers
Brady Eric ask if the propane deep fat fryers, now at close out prices, are
adequate for boiling wort. Yes. Brady also ask, (and this is the one I
like best), if there is an issue with the pot supplied. OK everyone now is
the time to get off the glass vs plastic thread and get onto the aluminum
one. Brady if the pot supplied is aluminum, don't use it! It will mess up
your brain. Jeff Renner is a prime example of this. Jeff uses aluminum and
just look what it's done to him. Besides all the rambling he does in his
post to the HBD, he had the same problem in his home life. Jeff's wife had
to build his bakery in their home. Seems as though when it was a separate
establishment, Jeff would sometimes get confused as to where he was going
and what hes was to do once he got there, he would get lost, and would be
found rambling all over town. The local police would haul him in and keep
him until his wife came to retrive him. The same two words of advice I gave
on the glass vs plastic debate pertains here. Think "STAINLESS STEEL".
Jim Bermingham
Millsap, TX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:16:33 -0500
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: RE: White Labs Hefeweizen IV yeast
Brian Schar wrote:
"Has anyone else ended up with a really phenolic weizen with this
yeast?"
Yes! Last week I kegged my Hefeweizen which had been fermented (in
glass!) at a constant 68F for two weeks and stored (in glass! ;) ) at
64F for 1.5 weeks before kegging. I like a good phenolic/clove
character in my Hefes, but this one is *way* over the top. I did not
notice any bleachy notes like Brian.
In my opinion this beer is virtually undrinkable. It's almost
plastic-like. If there were as many esters in this as there are
phenols, I could give it to my wife for use as nail polish remover. I
plan to let it rest in the keg for a few weeks to see if the phenols
recede before I dump it.
My recipe was 60% malted wheat, 40% 2-row. If memory serves, the mash
schedule was something like: 130F for 20 minutes, infuse with enough
boiling water to bring to 154F for 60 minutes.
S.G. ~1.046
F.G. 1.010
I had thought the problem was in my methods or sanitation but now it
seems it may have been the yeast. This was the first time I've used
White Labs Hefeweizen IV. I generally use Wyeast.
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
[215, 264.5] Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 10:36:16 -0400
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: CCCA, Oh, Canada?
Montreal John posts his CCCA recipe - looks good John! What yeast are you
using?
And Kalamazoo Mark questions John's commitment to the metric system - well,
let me tell ya something, Mark, it's hard to find a Canadian who's fully
committed to anything - we like to keep our options open. We've mastered
the art of the compromise, and when it comes to mixing and matching units of
measure, we've compromised by using them all. It's not hard to find
homebrew recipes around here where some hops are in 1/2 ounce increments
(because they're plugs) and other hop additions are in grams (because
they're pellets). I often toss a pound of wheat malt into a 4 kg grain
bill, just for some head retention. And when it's over 30C outside, I
usually turn the air conditioner on to keep the house at a nice even 70F,
especially if I've got an ale fermenting.
Of course, this all drives a certain Winnipegger nuts in his metric
extremism. But he pronounces the letter "Z" wrong too, and ferments in old
car parts, so we tend not to pay too much attention to his rantings...
Drew Avis ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca
One thing vampire children have to be taught early on is, don't run with
wooden stakes.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:51:05 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Propane
Eric Brady asks about propane cookers...
I use the Brinkman turkey fryer. Sorry the btu rating was not listed but it
boils water quickly. It's a little taller then most others I've seen. I'm
using a converted keg for boiling and the brinkman has an inner ring and
outer ring above the burner, this setup holds the rounded bottom nicely
while allowing me to tip the kettle to get the last of the wort out.
You can use the pot that comes with the fryer. Mine is a 6 gallon aluminum
which is a bit small for full wort boils but if you make 4 &1/2 gallons and
top up to 5 I don't think you'll be disappointed. Look for a stainless pot
if possible and the bigger the better. Stainless is more durable then
aluminum.
For a 5 gallon batch start to finish including clean up I use about 2 pounds
by weight propane. But I catch my counter flow chiller waste water and reuse
it as wash water. It's very nearly boiling at the start of my chill down so
I save a lot of energy not needing to reheat. Also I brew outside so wind
can be a problem. I found an insulated jacket for smoker grills that makes a
great windshield around the burner. I'm thinking of getting a second for
winter brewing to go around the kettle.
Hope this helps and welcome to a great hobby.
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:46:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4@yahoo.com>
Subject: Weissheimer Pils malt: does it need a protein rest?
Mark Linton asked in HBD#4003 if Weissheimer requires a protien rest.
I use this malt and perform multiple steps. Is it required?
I doubt it. Your already fermenting beer will help you decide
if it is necessary.
Recently, I have made Kolsch, German Pils and weizen from the
Weissheimer pils malt.
For the Pils, I had:
9 lbs Weissheimer Pils malt
1/2 lb Breiss carapils
For the mash scedule I used
101F 15 min
126F 15 min
152F 2 hours.
Mash out 168F
I used spring water because the my local tap water is high
in carbonate. This is the best pils I have made. I need to
get it to a competition to see how it compares to others.
In case you want to look, the Weissheimer web site is
http://www.weissheimer.de/
However, I don't see the Pils malt in the product descriptions.
=====
Leo Vitt
Rochester MN
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 08:55:52 -0700
From: "dave holt" <brewdave@hotmail.com>
Subject: fermenting in hot weather
David Brandt writes concerning hot weather fermentation:
>From: David Brandt
>I live in a town where the temps can get past 100 degrees in the summer.
>That puts a crimp into summer brewing around here. I put my carboy in a
>large Rubbermaid tub filled with water and add ice as needed to keep the
>fermentation temps down.
I split my brewing time between Phoenix, AZ and in the mountains of No. AZ.
I used the Rubbermaid setup for years in Phx before I changed to a
fridge/controller setup. In the morning, I would place a frozen Gatorade
bottle in the water, and then another in the evening. At times, 2 bottles
each time was necesary. I monitored the temperature of the bath water.
This method worked reasonably well. BTW, I used this method on glass and
plastic.
As noted by the other posts, there are inventive ways to keep your beer
cool. There is a notable story of a Tucson brewer who weighted his beer
down to the bottom of his pool to keep it cool. Obviously, he didn't have
kids splashing and jumping in the pool.
The problem with the water bath, towels and other methods, is the lack of
control on the fermentation temp. Wide swings or elevated temps can lead to
esters. The way around this is to brew beers where esters are acceptable in
the flavor profile.
Fusel alcohol can be a problem with elevated temps too but that is another
discussion.
Just was in Cloverdale last month visiting family. Nice area, went to
Hopland while there. Ever heard of Seven Arches Vineyard?
Dave Holt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:16:09 -0700
From: "dave holt" <brewdave@hotmail.com>
Subject: Bleach
I think Pete has hit on the key on the use of bleach as a sanitizer. A
question I almost asked in my last post. How bleach is needed to be an
effective sanitizer? Probably was my failure in using bleach, no control on
the amount added.
Dave Holt
>From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
>Reply-To: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
>To: "Homebrewers Digest" <post@hbd.org>
>CC: <brewdave@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Plastic vs Glass
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 09:24:24 -0400
>
>Dave Holt asks, "Does anyone use bleach with glass fermenters?"
>
>Well, I use plastic for primary, glass for secondary. When not fermenting
>(which is all too often lately), all fermenters are stored filled with a
>bleach solution (2 oz in 5 gal., 3 oz in 7 gal.). Turkey baster and
>various
>lengths of tubing are also left in the plastic fermenter.
>
>I can't taste "beach" in my beer but who am I to say.
>
>I have used the plastic fermenter since 1996. I have never used anything
>stiffer than a sponge to clean it.
>
>I have seen a number of posts here over the years that caution that storing
>a bleach solution in plastic can ruin the plastic. So far, 6 years of
>bleach solution haven't caused that.
>
>Years ago, there were one or more posts here that said something to the
>effect that the "bleach" in a bleach solution evaporates in a few days.
>The
>odor that lingers is the result of the matter that the bleach has worked
>on.
>(If my Alzheimer's hasn't failed me.)
>
>That's my story and I might stick to it.
>
>Pete Calinski
>East Amherst NY
>Near Buffalo NY
>
>
>***********************************************************
>*My goal:
>* Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
>* (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
>***********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 12:39:46 -0400
From: Alan Meeker <ameeker@mail.jhmi.edu>
Subject: Carboy caps and stupid brewer trick
I too use CO2 with a carboy cap to push the beer out of the carboy. I also
use the CO2 to purge the receiving vessel (secondary, bottling bucket, etc.)
prior to transfer, thus avoiding oxygenation of the beer. Someone else using
this method mentioned that, since it is not a tightly sealed system there is
little danger because one of the hoses will pop off before pressure can
build to any great extent. This has been my outlook as well. However,
exactly, /which/ hose pops off makes a BIG difference, as I found out the
other day. I was transferring a partially fermented Weizen from primary to
secondary, but had the CO2 pressure on a bit too high. Consequently, the
pressure in the carboy built up and one of the hoses did pop off - the hose
coming off the bent output end of the racking cane, resulting in an
impressive pressurized spray of sticky beer all over myself and the kitchen!
Quite a lot of it got out before I got everything under control. My wife,
hearing the string of curses, popped her head in, looked at me, looked at
the kitchen, shook her head and just walked away.
Now I just use the CO2 to get the flow started, then I turn off the tank and
let gravity do its thing.
-Alan
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:00:20 -0600
From: "ben rodman" <brodman@carmelclc.com>
Subject: Maine brewpubs
Can anyone suggest brewpubs in Portland, Maine (or Naples) for a traveller?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 11:09:03 -0700
From: Victor.E.Franklin@bankofamerica.com
Subject: lagering fridges
Victor Wrote:
I would like to try my hand at lagering some beers. I need a cold place to
do this. The quandary is how to accomplish this. Should I use an upright
refrigerator or convert a chest freezer? I like the idea of a chest freezer
because I could probably get 2 or 3 carboys in it at once, whereas with a
refrigerator I am limited to one at a time. I was once told it would
burn-out the freezer.
Question: for those who do use something for lagering, what do you use? Can
I convert a chest freezer? How would I do it?
Hi Victor,
I can't post to HBD due to the character limit which I can't change
(sheesh). I've seen several beautiful setups with chest and upright freezers
and the chest models seem much better except for the lifting over the
sides... but I can one-up them! After college I had a dorm-sized fridge
(about three feet tall, often sold as office fridges) and cut a circular
hole in the top through which to slide a corny keg, right next to the
element. The top of the keg is flush with the top of the fridge, allowing
easy outside access to the posts on the corny. This also leaves the CO2 tank
outside, eliminating the condensation problem for your regulator. Add a temp
controller (I put the probe against the corny under some styrofoam, thus
measuring the beer temp instead of ambient) and viola. After a friend gave
me his old fridge too, I had two so I can lager in one and dispense in the
other or dispense beers at different temperatures (geeky fun). I like this
setup as there's very little wasted space inside which makes them very
efficient. If you force-carbonate you can rock the whole fridge setup
forward on its legs to shake instead of removing and handling a chilled keg,
and for parties I just bring the whole setup w/ a CO2 tank and plug it in.
The only problem I've found is that the beer line, starting outside,
has to be run back into the fridge, leaving you to insulate the 4" or so of
tubing from temperature and light. I use adhesive foam rubber with duct tape
over it. Since the element is the little (visible) freezer area for making
ice cubes it's easily avoided when drilling/sawing; nothing hidden so drill
away.
Can I trouble you to paste this and send it along to the Digest? I've
always thought there must be a bunch of folks with these old fridges out
there and here's a great way to reuse them! Good luck with whichever setup
you choose; kegerators are fun to make!
Ben Rodman
Lyons, CO
Thanks Ben!... Victor
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 14:04:00 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous@pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: The Thirsty Traveller
Good Afternoon,
Wouldn't you know it....I get on the phone last night with my mother-in-law
and flip on the Boob Tube to FoodTV and discover someone touring the Orval
brewery!!!! Being the nice son-in-law that I am, I attempted to pay
attention to the conversation and not look at The Thirsty Traveler.
I've checked the web. This program was "Belgium: Beer Paradise". They
also have "Scotland: The Water of Life". It looks like a potentially
interesting show (and one I've contemplated in the past).
The "Belgium: Beer Paradise" airs again on August 10. For those of you
attending the Great Taste of the Midwest you can tape the program. I'll set
the VCR and duct tape the kids in closets so that I can get a copy of the
episode to watch. Some of you may be interested in this series. Check out:
http://www.foodtv.com/foodtv/show/0,6525,TY,00.html
Did anybody else see this? Comments?
Have fun!
nathan in madison, wi
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 15:10:42 -0400
From: "John O'Connell at Work" <oconn@mindspring.com>
Subject: Hop harvest and glass
To all,
There was an open question from Dave Holt, the midst of a long post:
>Does anyone use bleach with glass fermenters?
Personally, my long-term cleaning storage method with my glass carboys is
to rinse well, get as much of the yeast streaks/rings off as I can brush
(many seem to weld themselves onto even glass) and then fill with water to
the base of the outlet (the last inch or so above neck. I then top off
with what must be about a quarter cup of bleach, then I cap with saran wrap
secured with an orange carbonator cap, rubber band or twist-ties.
By the next time I brew or transfer, the carboy is spotless and the bleach
is still apparent by aroma. I drain to the yard where the counterflow
drains, and while the grass sometimes gets burned, with my yard burning's a
good thing. I do rinse with tap water from a garden hose. Usually five or
six sets of partial fill/slosh/dump. I do run with the assumption my tap
water is "sanitary".
It's the only area I use bleach in the brewing process. It's iodaphor
otherwise, along with the usual rinsing, washing and brushing. But the
bleach doesn't seem to bother the glass, and I can prep a carboy in the
time it takes between Irish moss to final hopping.
On another note: here in Atlanta, my first "crop" of two Fuggles and two
Cascade hop plants has bloomed and looks about ready to harvest. Being the
first year, the yield is enough for maybe one confused West coast/East
Anglia ale batch. Am I too early? Normal? Why didn't anyone tell me about
Japanese beetles eating the leaves like candy? What all do I harvest? How
do I dry it? Since it's so early is there a chance to work some more
blooms off of it if I harvest gently?
Just a confused gardener,
John O'Connell
[590.7, 182.7] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:04:09 -0400
From: "Richard Johnson" <rbj914@triad.rr.com>
Subject: Carboy caps as syphon starter
Nils uses carboy caps. I used to use the carboy caps before I got a Syphon
Starter (from fermentap I think, only $8) a couple of years ago. Simply
attach a rubber stopper (#10 maybe) upside down on one of the caps outlets.
Then take a plastic water or milk jug, sanitize it and fit it on the stopper
and gently squeeze. Any homebrew shop has the stoppers.
Richard Johnson
Mount Airy, NC
Richard Johnson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:30:22 -0400
From: mohrstrom@humphrey-products.com
Subject: Cleveland Homebrew Club Meetings?
Greetings -
I'll be in the Cleveland/Akron area most of next week. Are there any HB
club meetings happening then?
Alternatively, any suggestions for beer spots (besides those on my tie ...)
I've been to Great Lakes several times, but missed Diamondback and Western
Reserve ... forever.
Mark in Kalamazoo
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:38:11 -0600
From: "AOB Moderator" <moderator@aob.org>
Subject: Brewmaster for Hire
Hello Homebrewers,
The IBS, Institute for Brewing Studies, maintains a job placement program
called Brewmaster for Hire. This program helps place people looking for a
job in the professional beer industry, while providing breweries with
qualified employees.
Lately, I've been getting more requests than usual for his packet, so I'd
like to have more resumes on file. I'm sure many of you are capable and may
have brewery experience. If you are interested in posting a resume for
positions in the professional brewing industry, please contact me -
kate@aob.org - for details.
Thanks,
Kate
Kate Porter
Association of Brewers
kate@aob.org
moderator@aob.org
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:43:23 -0600
From: "Monica Tall" <monica@aob.org>
Subject: A Toast to a Successful American Beer Month
Greetings from American Beer Month (ABM) land!
Once again, brewers, homebrewers, homebrew clubs,
beer enthusiasts and the general public united
to promote American brewing and celebrate the
diversity and variety of American beer.
Thank you from the Association of Brewers
to those that supported American Beer Month 2002.
We appreciate and value your commitment
to promoting and celebrating American beer.
If you helped spread the American-beer gospel, please send me
an email about what you did to help promote OR celebrate American Beer
Month.
I want everyone's efforts to be acknowledged.
OR
If you have suggestions or comments about American Beer Month,
please email me your thoughts.
I look forward to hearing from you. The more emails I receive,
the more insight the Association of Brewers has for next year's American
Beer Month.
A TOAST is in order for those that spread the American-beer gospel by ...
*Sponsoring American Beer Month
*Hanging ABM posters at breweries, events and other places
*Passing ABM stickers to people
*Downloading ABM logos and artwork to make your own posters
*Posting www.americanbeermonth.com or www.americanbeermonth.org
on your web sites, posters and other materials
*Brewing traditional or historical American beer recipes
*Taking part in festivals
*Encouraging people to fo to their local brewpub and/or microbrewery
*AND of course, savoring unique flavors of American Beer
CHEERS to a successful American Beer Month and many more successful years!
Special thanks to our American Beer Month 2002 sponsors:
Boston Beer Company, Chicago Pizza/BJs Brewery, Hopunion CBS, Rogue Ales
Brewery, Stone Brewing Company.
And special thank to John Hickenlooper and Ed Canty.
It was fun being part of American Beer Month 2002.
Monica Tall
Association of Brewers
monica@aob.org
+1.303.447.0816 x 108 / 888.822.6273
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 02:11:07 +0000
From: "chris eidson" <eidsonc@hotmail.com>
Subject: Vanilla Brew
For vanilla flavor/aroma, I would suggest adding a vanilla bean to the
secondary (split, with seeds scraped and added also) and letting it sit for
2 weeks or so . . . just my $.02. Hope it helps.
Chris Eidson
Birmingham, AL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:32:17 -0700
From: DAWNE TRENT & DAVID BRATTSTROM <davidb@cdepot.net>
Subject: Queen of Beers
2002 Queen of Beer Competition
Placerville, CA
After a couple year's hiatus, SHE's BAAACK! The Hangtown Association of
Zymurgy Enthusiasts (HAZE) proudly announces the return of this popular
cometition! Get your female members to brew that award winning entry and to
encourage other women to brew (maybe plan an all women's brew). Please pass
this information on to any/all women brewers' that you know.
Entries will be accepted October 1st-19th
Judging will take place October 26th 2002
BJCP sanctioned
All categories beer and mead.
You must be a women who brewed the beer, cider, or mead to enter. No guys,
just because you wear a dress does not make you a "true Queen".
For complete information see H.A.Z.E. web site at www.HAZEclub.org
e-mail QOB_2002@hotmail.com
Snail mail 2739 Ponderosa Rd Shingle Springs, CA 95669
- --
David Brattstrom
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #4004, 08/01/02
*************************************
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