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HOMEBREW Digest #4008
HOMEBREW Digest #4008 Tue 06 August 2002
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
efficiency (leavitdg)
deactivation of enzymes (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema@akzonobel.com>
Sight glass replacement ("Dennis Collins")
mash hopping (Marc Sedam)
Last Call for Beer and Sweat 2002! ("Eric Tepe")
Re: Double Diamond Recipe (Rick)
American Amber Ale (ShoesBrew3)
Fw: Brewing in the Middle East ("Livia Gaffield")
Correction on mash hop question. (Kevin Crouch)
Re: Potato Beer ("Bill Pierce")
Re: efficiency ("Phil Yates")
Fw: Chest freezer problems ("Steve Heffner")
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 06:13:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: efficiency
Phil < phil.yates@acenet.com.au > discussed efficiency, and other things,
...which causes me to wonder ...my efficiency seems to have gone down,
from 72-75% a few months ago, when I'd take 1 hour or more to collect
7 gallons of wort,...to my currently abysmal level of about 62%, while
taking 30 minutes to collect 7 gallons...
I guess that the obvious is that I am sparging too fast?
Equipment is Polarware with Phils sparge arm...
Perhaps I should slow down the runoff a bit and increase efficiency...?
.Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:55:45 +0200
From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema@akzonobel.com>
Subject: deactivation of enzymes
Hi,
Does anybody know how fast enzymes deactivate? When I want to use the
beta-amylase at say 1 hour 63 degr.C (145 F) and not so much alfa amylase
and I heat up from 63 degr.C (145 F) to 85 degr. C (185 F) in 5 min., does
that mean I used mainly beta amylase and both are ineffective at the time
the mash reached 85 degr. C (185 F) ? Or is alfa amylase than stil working
during sparging?
Greetings from Holland (Europe),
Hans Aikema http://www.hopbier.myweb.nl
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:06:34 -0400
From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins@drain-all.com>
Subject: Sight glass replacement
Erik writes:
"On my triple tier converted keg setup, I have a sight glass on the hot
liquor tank. After several batches and due to the excessive heat from the
propane burners, the tube is pretty much shot. The tube is made from an FDA
approved plastic called "Excelon" (etched in tubing) and it appears to be
1/2" O.D. Anyone know where I can get more of this material? I've searched
the web, but all I can find are businesses who either did not respond to my
inquiries, or only do wholesale. Or if anyone has a replacement that would
work better, input would be appreciated."
What I use for sight tubes on my system is called PEX tubing. It's mostly
used for potable water in RV's and mobile homes and should be readily
available at Home Depot. It is a white, translucent, semi-flexible material
that works well for wort, however, plain water is a little hard to see, but
I do have it both on my kettle and HLT. It is UV sensitive, so you can't
leave it out in the sun when your not brewing. I've had mine for over a
year now (about 15 batches) with no ill effects from the heat of the propane
cooker. The 1/2" tubing can actually be "screwed" directly into a 3/8"
female NPT thread. I chamfered the end of the tube and applied a couple
wraps of teflon tape and just screwed it in several turns, no leaks to date.
Dennis Collins
Knoxville, TN
http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com
"In theory, theory and practice are the same, but not in practice."
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 08:29:16 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: mash hopping
Kevin,
Mash hops add very little bitterness to the beer. In
Promash I give them the equivalent of a 5 minute addition.
A few IBUs at best.
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:30:09 -0400
From: "Eric Tepe" <erictepe@insightbb.com>
Subject: Last Call for Beer and Sweat 2002!
Brewing Gurus, Brewing Lurkers, etc,
This is the last call for Beer and Sweat 2002! We
already have over 40 kegs entered with just under
2 weeks to register. What is Beer and Sweat? It is
the nation's only keg competition hosted by the
Bloataring Brewing League in Florence Ky (which is
just south of Cincinnati, OH). Last year David
Faber of SAAZ took Best of Show with his Bavarian
Weizen. This years event will be on August 17th at
the Ramada Inn in Florence, Ky. You can make
reservations at 859-371-4700. Ask for the Beer and
Sweat rooms as we get a special rate.I believe it
is actually
lower than last year! All beer styles, including
mead will be judged. As most of you know, Beer and
Sweat is a keg only competition and we will accept
corny kegs of all sizes, sankey kegs of all sizes,
party pigs and mini-kegs. Again, there will be no
2-liters this year. Entry fee is $5 for the 1st
entry, $4 for the 2nd entry, $1 for the 3rd entry.
Each additional entry over a total of 3 is free.
Last year we had a record 131 entries! Boy was it
a party! We will accept entries upto midnight EST
on Thursday, August 15th at our web site
www.hbd.org/bloat. As always there
will be a great raffle as well. Last year we
raffled off (3) 50lb bags of malt, as well as
about 80 other prizes. There is plenty of food
near by so no one will have to starve. For your
information, Florence, KY if only 12 miles from
Cincinnati, 70 miles from Dayton, about 120Mi from
Columbus, 130mi form Indy, about 4 hrs south of
Cleveland and Toledo, 5 hrs south of Chicago,
Pittsburgh, Detroit and Ann Arbor, 80 miles north
of Lexington KY, 100 mi N of Louisville KY, 3 hrs
N from Evansville IN, and about 4-5 hrs N from
Knoxville TN. We look forward to seeing everyone
and having a great time!
Sincerely,
Eric Tepe
Beer and Sweat Coordinator
Bloatarian Brewing League
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 05:46:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rick <ale_brewer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Double Diamond Recipe
Frosty,
You may want to search for a recipe for Ind Coope
Burton Ale. This is the original UK beer which is
renamed DD for the US market. I don't have it with me
now, but I'd be surprised if "Brew Your Own Real Ale
at Home" doesn't have a recipe for it.
Rick Seibt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:05:15 EDT
From: ShoesBrew3@aol.com
Subject: American Amber Ale
Im looking for any info on this particular style. Im having a hard time
getting any in-depth info besides the usual-HBD, AHA, BJCP. The way I
understand, this is basically a APA with a deeper color and a maltier
profiler. Anything would be appreciated.
Erik
Lakewood Brewers Guild
www.techno-inc.com/lbg/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 16:46:23 +0200
From: "Livia Gaffield" <swissliv@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Fw: Brewing in the Middle East
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gaffield, Ray
Sent: Montag, 5. August 2002 08:12
To: 'post@hbd.org'
Subject: Brewing in the Middle East
Subject: Brewing in the Middle East
Bob in Washington D.C. Asked :
>Anybody have experience using a US burner with
european-style propane tanks?
Bob,
I brought a US burner to Europe. Since there was a flexible hose between the
burner and the tank, I was able to cut the tank fitting off of the hose and
replace it with European fitting for the propane tank. This took a trip to
the hardware store and a lot of hand -waving but it got the job done. I find
that people are very willingly to help when you mention ( or somehow convey
with your hands ) that you make beer at home. The Euro tank will have metric
thread which most likely will not be compatible with the set up on your US
burner.
Good luck.
Ray Gaffield
Visit our website at http://www.ubswarburg.com
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 07:47:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Crouch <kcrouching@yahoo.com>
Subject: Correction on mash hop question.
My post the other day on mash hop recipe tweaking was
poorly worded. As Marc Sedam pointed out, mash hops
add little bitterness to the beer. I didn't mean to
make it sound as though they would contribute
bitterness on par with a first wort hopping schedule.
To achieve this, I would have to have far more time
and far fewer wits than I don't have now.
Kevin Crouch
Vancouver, WA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:28:17 -0500
From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Potato Beer
The recent discussion of potato beer made me remember a homebrewer by the
name of John Dennehy who brewed an annual St. Patrick's Day beer he called
Dennehy's Irish Potato Stout. It used five pounds (for 5 gallons) of boiled
potatoes in the mash. I believe he assumed an extract potential of about
1.008 (potatoes have a high percentage of water).
As Jeff Renner notes, potatoes do not need to be boiled in order to
gelatinize the starches. One source I found indicated a gelatinization
temperature of 60-65 C (140-149 F):
http://www.ojaiorganics.com/pdb/specsheet.asp?which=176
This would not be a problem at typical mash temperatures. However, there is
the issue of mashing raw potatoes, which makes boiling them convenient. I
suppose one could use a food processor as an alternative.
Brew on!
- -- Bill Pierce
Cellar Door Homebrewery
Highwood, IL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:40:51 +1000
From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates@acenet.com.au>
Subject: Re: efficiency
Darrell writes:
>Perhaps I should slow down the runoff a bit and increase efficiency...?
Hi Darrell
I would say your drop in efficiency is definitely due to your increased run
off rate. I am assuming no other parameters have changed. Some things just
can't be rushed. Try tasting the spent grain in your lauter tun after run
off has finished. I'll bet it still tastes a bit sugary. Some commercial
breweries use a mash filter which simply crushes all the grain in the mash
and extracts pretty much 100%. It is done to save time. Not likely to be
seen in a homebrew set up unless you have a lot of money.
Cheers
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 20:36:02 -0500
From: "Steve Heffner" <potatopotato@earthlink.net>
Subject: Fw: Chest freezer problems
Jeff from OK wrote:
<Help, my beer fridge is overflowing!
<We have had temperatures near 100 and humidity around 60%.
<The freezer is in the garage.
<I noticed recently that the chest freezer was not cooling well.
<It wouldn't cool below 60 degrees.
I had an old Philco fridge from the 30s or 40s that I used for a decade
for kegs in my basement. Then I moved and the fridge ended up in the
garage. Two years later, I had the same problem, my beer was 60 deg.,
and also the fridge kept running. I discovered that the compressor had
rotted out at the seam and the freon escaped. I blamed it on warm
humid air pouring into a cold garage whenever the big door was opened,
causing condensation on the compressor, and its 60 year old paint
must've developed some cracks.
Here around Chicago it's in the 90s and very humid in the summertime.
Needless to say, my new '50s Westinghouse is not going in the garage.
Maybe you can you can use the box for a lagering chamber? Hook it
up to your chest freezer with some flexible duct and a computer fan with
a controller.
Good luck with your overflowing problems. If only I was in Oklahoma....
Steve Heffner
La Grange, IL
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #4008, 08/06/02
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