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HOMEBREW Digest #3907
HOMEBREW Digest #3907 Fri 05 April 2002
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
Sankey spelling ("Mike Dixon")
rye ale questions ("Chris Bersted")
Rye ("Dan Listermann")
Clear Wheat Beers ("Dennis Waltman")
Grain Mill ("Jon & Megan Sandlin")
Chilling CCF (Aaron Gallaway)
PID Controllers ("Houseman, David L")
Re: Rye Ale questions (Jeff Renner)
hazelnut extract ("homebrew@alabrew.com")
Re: Rye Ale questions (Denny Conn)
Hazelnut (Phil Wilcox)
Re: Where to buy beer online (Spencer W Thomas)
Re: Sankey kegs (Phil Wilcox)
Saving Yeast ("Hedglin, Nils A")
Pilsner plans (RiedelD)
Povidone/Iodine Solution ("Galen Brelie")
Schlitz Porter Recipe ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
Rye APA (Jeff & Ellen)
Re: RIMS temperature control (Ronald La Borde)
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 23:31:58 -0600
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump@mchsi.com>
Subject: The Jethro Gump Report
The Jethro Gump Report
Auto Radiators....
Lonzo McLaughlin considers using an auto radiator for chilling...It
would work, but I believe these have a reputation for lead welds...and for
being a contributing factor in moonshine op's contributing toxins to the
ethanol drinker. I wouldn't use it. A stainless or copper coil in the same
application would do the job, perhaps not as efficiently though.
Ethylene/Propylene Glycol...
Someone recently commented on ethylene/propylene glycols.....though I
can't find the exact post right now.
Please let me emphasize that propylene gylcol is used in food
applications, as ethylene glycol (the stuff in your car) may cause problems
should your chiller leak into the product. Like poisoning your
friends/customers/yourself.....
Chemists please advise, but I believe that propylene glycol is actually
even used as an ingredient in some foods? It is what I use in my chilling
applications, not just for its coolant properties, but also for the fact
that it won't subject my company to huge liabilities, should a pin-hole leak
occur, across the coolant/product barrier.
>From: Jim Busch <jim@victorybeer.com>
>Subject: Jethros CCF
>Mr Moline has done a wonderful job of
>describing the exact CCF I had made at a
.brewery tank supplier in Maine. Only addition I
>would suggest is two ports on the top of the
>CCF, one for filling and CIP at 1" size, the
>other 1/2" for blowoff/CO2 pressure gauge
>attachment.
Now, I know 'FER' a fact that Jim would rather fill any vessel from the
bottom up...so, he has clearly made a mistake when he proposes a filling
from the top....
I KNOW he's not wrong...it's just a mistake, y'all....'cos I know that
he knows one can utilize the same device, i.e., a one inch blow off tube,
stainless, of course, for all these purposes, sans filling....
A 1 inch stainless tube, attached to the top, CIP fitting, can be
followed down the vessel, where a pressure gauge can be fitted, tangential
to the tube, below which a TC clamp fitting can exist, which can be fitted
with a valve, if one wishes to spundig the brew....(something I never
do...relying on force carbing through sintered steel in serving....)
And CIP pumps can be similarly attached, as can blow off buckets, to
this same down tube....
Let's see...one tube...that allows CIP.... gas collection/blow-off
observation.....spundig carbonation/CO2 pressure reading....or...2 tubes?
The second of which requires a secondary cleaning step???
Not having much smarts...I have to rely on "Keep It Simple Stupid,"
GUMP principles...!
One tube is better than 2.......Just a mistake...
Heat Generation During Fermentation....
>Is there a formula for BTUs given off during
>fermentation?
from Lonzo....a fella with an inquisitive mind...
Will see if I can remember to find out... ;^) but know that some temp
un-controlled gasahol palnts in South America generate 100C, post
pitching....
Cheers!
Gump
515-282-2739 CABCO
515-450-0243 cell
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
New Address- jethrogump@mchsi.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:30:12 -0500
From: "Mike Dixon" <mpdixon@ipass.net>
Subject: Sankey spelling
> From: bdk@srl.caltech.edu
>
> So I am now assuming that these things are Sankey kegs because GKN Sankey
> came up with the valve design. Can anybody confirm / deny / shed light
> on this? Or on why a company that makes helicopters and auto components
> would be designing kegs?
This might help clear it up some (get the whole link)
http://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/metalware/sankeys/sankey01.htm
So while the correct spelling is most likely Sankey, I still prefer Sanke...
Cheers,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:13:00 -0600
From: "Chris Bersted" <ctb967f@smsu.edu>
Subject: rye ale questions
Several have commented on John's question on rye ale. I frequent a
brewpub where they make an interesting rye ale. They use a chocolate
rye and dark wheat, amongst other ingredients. The chocolate rye and
dark wheat are each less than 10% of the grain bill, and even with about
the same amount of flaked oats, the runoff is no problem. Makes a nice
roasty brew!
Chris in MO
Somewhere in Rennarian space
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:02:42 -0500
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan@listermann.com>
Subject: Rye
< "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128@edwardwadsworth.com>
>Hey John, I would like to brew a rye ale soon too, so I may just graph
>myself into your thread, here. The only help I can give is that I believe
>to use malted rye would be easier, as you could use it in the mash.
>However, it is probably undermodified, meaning only that in order to bring
>out the enzyme potential, you would be better off doing a decoction with at
>least a protein rest at 122F.
I don't know the degree of ryemalt's modification, but when I have used it,
it seems to convert faster than barley malt. Rye malt appears to be
crawling with enzymes.
<If you use flaked rye, (and again, I am only
<partially sure of this) you would need to boil it for a bit separately and
<then add the whole soupy mix to the mash.
Flaked adjuncts are pre gelatinized and do not need boiling. They can be
added directly to the mash at striking. Raw adjuncts frequently need
boiling depending on the temperature they gelatinize.
Dan Listermann
Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com
Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:26:56 -0500
From: "Dennis Waltman" <PDWALTMAN@sablaw.com>
Subject: Clear Wheat Beers
Twice now, my brew partner and I have made wheat beers
with as much as 70% non-barley malt (in the case of the
Wit it included unmalted wheat, unmalted rye, unmalted
oats) only to find in the final pour that we have a clear
product, not the hazy item most consider needed for a
wheat bear. I know there is German style of clear wheat
(krystalweisse?) but these were American wheat and Belgian wit.
We didn't add Irish Moss in the boil, or clarifiers of any type in
fermenters. In the case of the American Wheat, it was a first
runnings batch wheat beer that was fermented at the same time,
with the same yeast and temp as a seconds runnings batch
(my brew partner and I brew parti-gyle all the time; no sparge) that
was split later for the addition of spice and fruit. All beers were
bottle conditioned in the same conditioning area. The Spice
and Fruit versions are cloudy as expected, yet the American
Wheat first runnings is clear.
We use a 10 gallon Gott cooler as mash tun; did single step infusion
mashes for these beers (decoctions are saved for special beers); and
don't sparge.
Any ideas what might be happening so I can a) make sure I do that on
the beers I want clear (which doesn't always happen) or b) so I can
avoid doing it on wheat bears.
Thanks for your help,
Dennis Waltman
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 06:51:35 -0800
From: "Jon & Megan Sandlin" <sandlin@bendcable.com>
Subject: Grain Mill
I have put some money aside to purchase a grain mill (finally!) and would
like to ask the collective what features I should look for in a grain mill.
Any suggest brands/models would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
for your help.
Jon Sandlin
Bend, OR
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 22:18:13 -0800
From: Aaron Gallaway <baseball_junkie@hotmail.com>
Subject: Chilling CCF
For those who remember me HI!
I am confused here perhaps. I here everyone pondering on how to
chill their CCF's. While I don't have one yet(shipping to here is
OUTRAGEOUS) I fully intend to go through TMS and build two 12.2's when I
return to The Empire to REpatriate myself next spring. Upon my decision
to eventually make brewing a career(I hope) I fully committed myself to
the idea of using CCF's. I did as much CYBER homework as I could and
found the most reasonable option(If you are gadgtet-oriented) is to go
through TMS for a hopper and lid and then modify it locally through
somebody willing to subsidize some of the work for homebrew.
After making this decision I mulled over the chilling options and it
just seemed LOGICAL to me to have to extra "connection" holes cut with
nipples of some sort welded facilitate some coiled copper(or if you can
afford it stainless) tubing through cold H2O can be pumped. The water can
be refrigerated in a small refrigerator in a 3 GAL Corny(I have a bunch)
and circulated with a small inexpensive pump. This system would be cheap,
clean, easy, and safe if all your connections are tight. To check
connections just pump some idophor "brown" solution into a fermenter full
of clean water and watch.
Now this is TRUELY NOT an attempt to belittle or put anybody down,
this PURELY an attempt to find out if I have missed something in my
design plans. Thanks any and everybody for your replies.
LASTLY, Dion Hollenbeck, Did you get my mail about the completion of my
PID gear??
Aaron in Japan(with just under a year to go...)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:38:40 -0500
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman@unisys.com>
Subject: PID Controllers
All this talk of PID controllers takes me back to my undergraduate
electrical engineering days, way before PIDs BTW. Since then my engineering
took new directions and I haven't built such devices since EE 401. I do
have a RIMS but the controller was a POS and the company that built it went
belly up apparently. So I just control my pump and heater manually at this
point. The old saw about draining the swamp and alligators comes to mind
when I tell you that I'm not particularly interested in spending my time
building a PID controller, but rather to brew, judge, referee and spend time
with the kids. Soooo, if any of you who do end up building a fairly generic
RIMS controller that would work with a my system, and you'd like to build
another for $$, contact me off-list and we can discuss.
Dave Houseman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 10:52:55 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rye Ale questions
"Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128@edwardwadsworth.com> makes some
suggestions for John Misrahi <Lmoukhin@sprint.ca> about rye ale:
>The only help I can give is that I believe
>to use malted rye would be easier, as you could use it in the mash.
I agree that malted rye would probably work better, but not because
"you could use it in the mash." Flaked rye starch will gelatinize at
mash temperatures.
>However, it is probably undermodified, meaning only that in order to bring
>out the enzyme potential, you would be better off doing a decoction with at
>least a protein rest at 122F.
Actually it is well modified, or at least Briess' is. From the
Briess page at http://www.briess.com/Products/rm.htm
//
TYPICAL ANALYTICAL
SPECIFICATIONS: Growth 95+
Plump 50 % minimum
Thin 8 % maximum
Moisture 4.0 +/-0.3 %
Extract, f.g., d.b. 76 % minimum
Color* 3.5-4.0 L
Diastatic Power (Lintner) 20-50
Alpha Amylase, D.U. 22.0-30.0
Total Protein, d.b. 12.5 %
S/T Protein 44.0 +/-2.0 %
ADVANTAGES:
* Rye Malt is used to produce rye beer, called Roggen Bier in Germany.
* The malt is fully modified. It performs well in a single
temperature infusion mash if used at less than 20 % of total grist.
Over 20 %, a slow lautering time may be experienced.
* The malt yields a very deep red color and a pronounced rye flavor.
APPLICATIONS:
* For rye beer, use up to 20% rye malt; however, because of its
unusual and pronounced flavor, it is suggested to pilot brew with 5 %
increments and gradually increase the amount until the desired flavor
is obtained.
//
The soluble/total protein value of 44% indicates well modified malt.
Note the low enzyme levels, BTW, less than even Munich malt.
A potential problem is the gums, however. A low rest may help this,
but as noted, if you keep the rye malt to under 20%, this should not
be a problem.
>If you use flaked rye, (and again, I am only
>partially sure of this) you would need to boil it for a bit seperately and
>then add the whole soupy mix to the mash.
Again, the rye starch will gelatinize at mash temperatures, so this
separate cereal mash is unnecessary.
>This boiling would break down the alpha's and beta's and make the
>rye usable to the yeast.
Not sure what you mean here. Alpha and beta amylases? Those are in
malt, but not in flakes, and boiling will destroy them. Do you mean
that it will break down starches and make them available to the
yeast? There are no alpha or beta starches, but there are starch
chains that alpha amylase will break down into sugars, and others
that beta amylase will break down, making them available to yeast. I
suspect that this is what you meant. But, again, mash temperatures
will do this for rye.
Now specifically to John's concern. Since you are going to do a
partial mash, it is going to be hard to get much rye into your beer
and still keep the portion in your mini-mash to under 20%. I would
certainly opt for the rye malt as it is going to be more broken down
(especially gums) than flakes. You may want to prepare yourself for
a slow runoff or even a stuck mash.
Jeff
- --
***Please note my new address***
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 10:13:32 -0600
From: "homebrew@alabrew.com" <homebrew@alabrew.com>
Subject: hazelnut extract
We use a bottle of Hazelnut Liqueur Extract at bottling in our Hazelnut
Brown Ale Kit.
- --
Kim and Sun Ae Thomson
ALABREW Homebrewing Supplies
8916a Parkway East
Birmingham, AL 35206
(205) 833-1716
http://www.alabrew.com
mailto: homebrew@alabrew.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 08:30:07 -0800
From: Denny Conn <denny@projectoneaudio.com>
Subject: Re: Rye Ale questions
Parker,
I use rye quite frequently, mostly in a rye IPA. I use rye malt for that,
but I just made the "Hop Rod Rye" recipe from the current issue of Zymurgy,
which calls for both flaked and malted rye. With malted rye, I find a
single infusion mash to be fine...no protein rest seems to be
necessary. For the Hop Rod Rye, I simply added the flaked rye to the mash
with everything else. No pre-boiling. Worked great!
At 12:23 AM 4/4/02 -0500, Parker Dutro wrote:
>Hey John, I would like to brew a rye ale soon too, so I may just grapht
>myself into your thread, here. The only help I can give is that I believe
>to use malted rye would be easier, as you could use it in the mash.
>However, it is probably undermodified, meaning only that in order to bring
>out the enzyme potential, you would be better off doing a decoction with at
>least a protein rest at 122F. If you use flaked rye, (and again, I am only
>partially sure of this) you would need to boil it for a bit seperately and
>then add the whole soupy mix to the mash. This boiling would break down the
>alpha's and beta's and make the rye usable to the yeast. You would want to
>be careful and monitor the temp. and add it to the mash when it's the same
>temp. as the mash. This may be simpler than decoction. Hope this sheds
>some light.
>Parker
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 11:48:51 -0500
From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox@cmsenergy.com>
Subject: Hazelnut
Niel,
I played with this back in 96' for my first all-grain batch. The
Parkers used the 1 oz T-Nior Hazelnut flavoring extract you can get at
homebrew shops. And they used TWO bottles in a 5 gal batch. I Found this
to be WAY to much. So I set about as scientifically as possible doping 2
oz samples of Newcastle brown ale with a diluted solution of extract
from a graduated pipette. I eventually found a level that 4 out of 5
people in the room and enjoyed. I then started cranking out the numbers.
45 min. later it came out to EXACTLY one ounce. 3 hours of painstaking
maticulas work only to confirm my original suspicion that Half of what
they used would be fine... Eh. Bien!
Included below is what I found in my files. Somewhere I had more info
because I tracked down one of the brewers from Sam Adams through a
contact in the Boston Wort Processors and had a good phone conversation
with him about it. You might be able to search the HBD archievs of 1996
for more of results...
Phil Wilcox
"Recently, Greg Moore asked for the Long Shot Hazelnut recipe. I have
the hazelnut recipe right here from the bottom of the 6 pack, and it is
an
inspiring, wonderfull beer. This is it verbatum:
Longshot Hazelnut
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Ingredients for 5 Gallons
9# Pale malt
8 oz. Munich malt
7 oz. Caramel malt
4 oz. Chocolate malt
3 oz. Victory malt
4 oz. Carapils malt
2 oz. Fuggles hops
.5 teaspoon Gypsum added to mash
Ale yeast (1056?)
Procedure:
Mash in at 155'F, rest for one hour.
Sparge and fill kettle.
Boil 90 minutes adding hops as follows:
At kettle full: 1.5 oz.
At KF + 85 mins: .5 oz.
Cool to 65' F and pitch ale yeast
Ferment at 65 - 70'F
Add hazelnut flavoring before bottling
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I've heard that this is a recipe that the Boston Wort Processors (HB
Club)
have made and is not exactly the real deal. I'd imagine it would be
close
though. My questions are What yeast? Wyeast 1056? Also, where do
you get hazelnut flavoring??????
Frogshot Hazelnut
Batch number:1
Batch size: 5.3
Brewer: Phil Wilcox
Style: Brown Ale
Date Gravity Plato
Brewing: 11/29/96 1.041 10.2
Racking:
Bottling:
Alcohol: 0.0% (w/w)
Alcohol: 0.0% (v/v)
Batchprice:$15.19
Bottle price: $0.27
Ingredients:
2 Row 9.3 pounds 1.03 S.G. 3.5 RM 60 min mash $9. 0
Victory 3.4 ounces 1.00 S.G. 1.0 RM 60 min mash $0. 1
Munich 1.0 pounds 1.00 S.G. 1.0 RM 60 min mash $1. 0
Cara Pils 2.9 ounces 1.001 S.G. 0.1 SRM 60 min mash $0.18
Chocolate 0.5 pounds 1.000 S.G. 37.7 SRM 60 min mash $0.00
Extraction efficiency: 56 %
Boil size: 6.5 Gallons
Fermentation
Primary fermentation:
Secondary Fermentation:
Primed with: PURE CO2!!!!! Force Carbonated, Counterpressure Bottled
Filled
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 15:23:08 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Where to buy beer online
Besides the places mentioned by a couple of others, the realbeer.com
"rare beer store" has some interesting beers that you may not be able
to find locally. They're a bit pricy, but as a member of two of their
three clubs ("Real Beer Tour" and "Great Beers of Belgium") I can
honestly say that I've never had a bad beer from them. (My only
connection is as a satisfied customer.)
They have made arrangements to ship beer legally to a bunch of states
(most of the beers listed on the site have a list of states to which
they can ship it, usually AZ, CA, CO, CT, FL, IL, IN, MI, MO, NJ, NM,
NY, VA, WI, and WA). One consequence of this arrangement is that they
ship the beer once per month, so you may have to wait a while to get
what you order.
If you're looking to expand your beer horizons, you could do much
worse than subscribing to their new "Beer Club International." This
club gives you, each month, 4 bottles of the "Real Beer Tour" beer, 4
bottles of the "Great Beers of Belgium" beer, and 2 bottles each of
the two "American Brewpub Club" beers. It's a bit pricy at $40 per
month, but if you consider all the traveling you'd have to do to find
some of these beers, it's cheap. :-) :-)
Good luck in your beer hunting!
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer@umich.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 16:29:40 -0500
From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox@cmsenergy.com>
Subject: Re: Sankey kegs
BDK asks
"Or on why a company that makes helicopters and auto components
would be designing kegs?"
Did'nt bob klein answer that question with a stunning piece of beer
trivia from February 11th?
Some Airforce General paided someone some money to invent kegs for clear
beer? ;<)
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 13:54:56 -0800
From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin@intel.com>
Subject: Saving Yeast
Hi all,
Is there a way to save the yeast left over after a batch is done? It
seems that the yeast is one of the single most expesive parts of a batch. I
know you can start another batch on top of the yeast from a batch that's
just finished & I've done that before. But I don't brew frequently enough
to have batches queued up like that (yes, I know, I'm a slacker). I'm not
interested in making yeast slants or anything like that. I'd like to be
able to collect some of the yeast as I'm dumping out the carboy & save it
for a month or two. Is something like that possible? I'd assume it would
need to be refrigerated. Would keeping it in a near vacuum help? I have
one of those food vacuum sealers.
Thanks,
Nils Hedglin
Sacramento, CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:17:32 -0500
From: RiedelD@pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca
Subject: Pilsner plans
I plan to make a batch of Czech Pils mid-month. I will be
using Beeston's Chariot Pils for the base malt. Does anyone
have any thoughts on a good mash schedule? My initial plan
was to mash in at 104F, pull a decoction, convert it at 158F,
meanwhile raise the main mash to 140F (hold for about 15')
then use the single decoction to raise the temperature from
140F to around 152F for conversion. However, I'm not certain
that decocting is worth the effort.
Anyone have a good Pils method?
Cheers,
Dave
Victoria, Can.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:31:42 -0600
From: "Galen Brelie" <gmbaaa@ncis.com>
Subject: Povidone/Iodine Solution
I have recently come across several gallons of a Povidone/Iodine solution and
am wondering if this would be OK to use for sanitizing purposes. According to
the label it is intended for use as a wound disinfection and surgical
preparation product. The price is right (free) and I hate to see it go to
waste if it is usable; but if not appropriate for use as a brewing sanitizer I
would pass. I currently use and like Iodophor sanitizer and use it for all my
equipment; plastic fermenter, carboys, plastic tubing, airlocks, bottles and
caps, etc. The label of this product is as follows:
10% Povidone/Iodine solution
1% available Iodine
Water soluble
Non-irritating
Film forming
Non-staining to skin and natural fabrics
If anybody has any information or experience with such a product I would
appreciate very much your input. Is this OK as a sanitizer? If yes, at what
dilution or concentration should it be used? Would rinsing be advised? Any
other coments?
Thanks very much in advance for your help.
Galen Brelie
Mora, MN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:21:36 -0800 (PST)
From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Schlitz Porter Recipe
hmmm,
Bueller??? Bueller???
This beer has not been brewed for a long time. Anybody have any information?
Thanks
-Skotrat
=====
"It's Mister Mischief with a trick up his sleeve...
Roll up on you like Christopher Reeves"
-D12
http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page
http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:52:18 -0500
From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish@ij.net>
Subject: Rye APA
I have made several batches of rye ale, using a good recipe for an American
Pale Ale and substituting a portion of the pale malt with flaked rye.
Although I have not had any problems, some other area homebrewers have had
difficulty with stuck sparges. It does tend to make the mash very gummy.
I sparge very slowly and use more water in the mash than in my normal APA
recipe. I have increased the portion of flaked rye over the last three
batches to 21% to maximize the rye flavor. It provides a nice spiciness.
Added directly to the mash without any pre-boiling, it produces about the
same efficiency as pale malt in my system. One thing I've noticed is that
it tends to soften the perception of hop bitterness in the finished beer.
I've had to increase the kettle hop additions to compensate for the
increase in rye. I'd be happy to share the recipe.
Jeff Gladish, Tampa, FL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:13:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RIMS temperature control
>From: mailto:hollen@woodsprite.com
>
>..Also, I laid out the circuit board to only
>handle 15 amps on the existing traces, so even if I
>went out and got a
>larger triac that would fit the footprint on the PC
>board, it may just
>vaporize the traces the first time it turned on...
True, but you can solder some large gauge copper wire
directly across the traces, which will conduct the
current and allow the board to be used. The larger
gauge wire should have a lower resistance than the
trace and will take up the largest share of the
current. Just be sure to make good solder connections
and use heavy wire, about number 12 copper will handle
the 25 amps.
Or, you can just cut the original trace, and use the
heavy wire alone.
=====
Ron
Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA
New Orleans is the suberb of Metairie, LA
www.hbd.org/rlaborde
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3907, 04/05/02
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