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HOMEBREW Digest #3843
HOMEBREW Digest #3843 Sat 19 January 2002
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Dark Malt Additions (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
Water Analysis (AJ)
COLD Steeping roast grains (Tony Barnsley)
Re: Whirlygigs are silly, Stepping up 'pitchable' tubes (Jay\) Reeves" <jay666@bellsouth.net>
dark grains (leavitdg)
Spinning wheels got to go round! (Pat Babcock)
re: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler (Ed Jones)
silica gel redux (Marc Sedam)
Re: Sister Star of the Sun ("Joel Plutchak")
soda taste in kegs ("Joseph Marsh")
Re: Grain Mill Feedback Requested (Mark Kempisty)
First All Grain Attempt, Dark Malt Mashing Proceedures and Sparge Arms ("Dan Listermann")
Counter Pressure Bottle Filler ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
FW: Mash PH Reactions (Tony Barnsley)
re, Malting Barley Seed (John Palmer)
Phil's sparger, revisited ("Bob Hewitt")
Re: Grain Mill Feedback Requested (Dan.Stedman)
RE: Listerman's Mashing Instructions (Brian Levetzow)
Brown Malt proportions in porter? (Adam Holmes)
Phil's Sparge Arms ("George Krafcisin")
I wish I never bought... ("Brian M Dotlich")
Brewing Techniques -- don't get swindled ("KKrist")
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:02:06 +1100 (EST)
From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan@Sun.COM>
Subject: Dark Malt Additions
>What?? I have never heard of adding dark malts to the mash anytime
>other than with the rest of the grist. What's the point of adding them
>late? Also I was under the impression that I get some extraction out of
>dark malts, provided I have enough enzymes from my primary malt.
>
>Could someone please enlighten me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Doug Hurst
>Chicago, IL
Doug, I'll be hoping that I can Drag Dave Lamotte or Wes Smith out of
the woodwork here.
In my converstions with Dave the otherday he mentioned a method of
soaking RB over night in air temp water and then adding to the sparge.
This helps decrease any harshness and solves one of my all time problems
with Dark beers, a hole in the flavour profile you can drive a truck thru.
But, I'll let Dave or Wes explain to hedge any mis-info
Scotty
Brewing in forgotten Renean Co-ordinates
but not far enough away from F&%$# Lat C*^&* Long
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:15:52 +0100
From: AJ <ajd@zai.com>
Subject: Water Analysis
For Jim Cuny RE water calcium 45 to 50, cloride 4.6 to 5.2, magnesium
28, sodium 9.7 to 10, ph 7.7 to 7.8, sulfate 13
alkalinity 212 to 240, hardness 220 to 240 mg/L:
Water contains two kinds of ions. Those that set the pH of the mash and
thus indirectly influence the flavor of the beer and "stylistic" ions
that directly affect flavor. This water has lots of the former and very
little of the latter. The biggest "problem" with this water is the high
level of alkalinity at up to 240 ppm (as calcium carbonate we assume)
and only 240 ppm hardness to offset it leaving a residual alkalinity of
about 180 ppm. This is a bunch and will either have to be reduced by
boiling (with calcium supplementation first i.e. addition of gypsum
and/or calcium chloride) or lime treatment or offset by the addition of
large amounts of gypsum and/or use of a large proportion of dark malts.
If succesfully decarbonated this water can be used for a variety of
beers. If not decarbonated it will be limited to dark beers. Its low
sulfate content means that hops flavors will be muted and mellow i.e.
noble hops can be used with it but only, practically speaking, if
decarbonated as the beers that use this kind of hopping are usually made
with pale malts which won't go to proper mash pH with this water if the
bicarb isn't removed. Converesely, additional sulfate is required for
authentic hops flavor of the type associated with British ales but this
generally works out well because a water like this is usually dosed with
gypsum either in the mash tun so the calcium can counteract the
alkalinity or as an aid to decarbonation by boiling. The sulfate comes
along with the gypsum as frosting on the cake. If the water is
decarbonated by lime treatment some gypsum (or epsom salts) will be
needed to raise the sulfate level for beers which want the assertive hop
character. Some calcium chloride would be a good idea with this water
both to raise calcium and add some roundness to beers brewed with it.
A. J.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:44:36 -0000
From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley@blackpool.gov.uk>
Subject: COLD Steeping roast grains
Hi all,
The UK Homebrew discussion list is AWOL at the moment, we have not yet heard
anything from our host as to why! Makes me wish I'd decided to host it
'privately' like the HBD :<
Anyway on to brewing related topics.
It appears that it will still be some time before Carafa Special Malts make
an appearance here in the UK. Given the fact that we are now linked to
Europe via a big tunnel it should be easier for us to get European malts
than you in the US, but it doesn't seem to be the case!!
I have been intending to brew a Schwarzbier and a version of Old peculier
using Carafa III to reduce the roast grain flavour that people have told me
is present in my Old Peculier Clone. Well if that's not going to be possible
I need another plan! I saw some discussion here about Cold steeping and
would like some ideas about how to go about it.
I was planning on using 500g of Carafa III in 5 US Gallons for the
Schwarzbier, and 400g in 10 gallons of Old Peculier, Both replace either
Black Malt or Roast Barley.
I suppose I could always add the dark malts late on in the sparge to reduce
the roast flavours that carry through to the final beer.
Any other ideas/suggestions?
- --
Wassail!
The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361)
Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Rennerian Coordinates (I'm Not Lost! I'm A Man, I don't ask for directions)
UK HOMEBREW - A Forum on Home Brewing in the UK
Managed by home brewers for home brewers
This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange
as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:13:13 -0600
From: "James \(Jay\) Reeves" <jay666@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Whirlygigs are silly, Stepping up 'pitchable' tubes
Gene asks about his sparge arm not spinning, to which he doesn't really get
an answer.
It should move relatively easy. Mine will spin with very little flow. I
use a 3/8" ID tubing connected to it, and just barely crack the ball valve
on the hot liquor tank. I get about a 0.5qts/min flow out of the mash tun
and try to match that with the sparge rate to maintain a constant level of
water in the tun. If that arm hangs vertical, you should be able to give it
a flip and it'll spin forever (well, maybe not "forever"). If it doesn't
I'd say send 'er back.
Then Christopher T. Ivey sez "Are Gene and I the only ones who have
experienced this symptom?". Mines about 4 or 5 yrs old. Maybe they're
built different now.
Dave Riedel asks about tube yeast & stepping it up.
My experience has been that if it's a month or two old, I find shorter lag
times if I pitch the tube into a pint of weak wort (1030) either late the
night before the brew day, or early the A.M. of the brew day - seems to
"wake up" the yeast. Otherwise, I get lag times of 12+ hours by just
pitching the tube alone.
If it's more than a few months old, I step it up to a pint, then half gallon
before using it. When I tried pitching just the tube that was that old, I
had lag times of 24hr or slightly more. I'm sure the viability of yeast
that old isn't all that great, so you probably need to build 'em back up.
I've not had much luck with these "pitchable tubes", so they really haven't
impressed me as to their benefits of being able to pitch directly.
-Jay Reeves
Huntsville, AL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:44:21 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: dark grains
not capable of enlightening...but I have spoken to a good brewer at a
pub who suggested waiting with the roasted barley, ie not placing in
the mash, but instead adding it to the lauter-tun. I have tried and
think that he is correct, that is , that it renders less harsh
flavor...if that is what one wants...
..Darrell
Plattsburgh, NY
[545.7, 72.3] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:01:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock@hbd.org>
Subject: Spinning wheels got to go round!
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Gene asks why his sparge arm is not spinning:
o Check that all holes are free. If they are not, pull the
little rubber bungs from the ends and rinse with a
fast-moving stream of water.
o Make sure the vertical shaft is vertical! A slight tilt will
subject it to additional frictional forces, slowing or
stopping it (this is usually the cause of mine not
spinning...)
- --
-
God bless America!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:00:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Ed Jones <ejones@ironacres.com>
Subject: re: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler
I recently purchased my first CP filler from www.hoptech.com. It's an
easy operation with it's brass 3-way ball valve for gas in and liquid in
and it's 'automatic' bleeder valve. I don't have any troubles bottling
and capping by myself. I think the hoses they supply are a little on
the short side, but all-in-all I'm happy with the purchase.
- --
Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian
"When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment,
I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am
confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery."
- written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:42:38 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: silica gel redux
Uhhhh...just to clarify. Don't add silica gel TO your malt
extract. It usually comes packed in little tiny bags that
come in electronics, shoe boxes, etc. I just re-read my
post and wanted to make sure there was no confusion.
Another great way to prevent DME from caking is to make a
giant batch of starter wort and heat- or pressure-can it.
Buy a case of quart Ball jars. Add 3lbs DME to 3 gallons of
water. Dissolve, boil for 10 mins, then pressure can.
Stores indefinitely and is amazingly convenient. I need
some priming sugar tonight...grab 2 quarts of starter wort,
dump, bottle/keg. Badda bing!
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:02:59 +0000
From: "Joel Plutchak" <plutchak@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sister Star of the Sun
Just wanted to chime in on the question about the potential
for beer that's undrinkable using Dave Brockington's "Sister
Star of the Sun" recipe. If he had a dollar (make that a Euro
these days) for everyone who's wondered that he would be rolling
in Grolsch. If he had a Euro for every time somebody used the
recipe he'd be quite well off.
Bottom line is to just brew it! Unless you're a lupophobe
you'll enjoy it. I'm personally brewing "My Sister the Devil"
Monday-- a blend of Sister Star and my understanding of the
ingredients used in Victory's Hop Devil.
Jason Henning writes:
>The Maris Otter malt is a keystone ingredient. [...]
>Maris Otter might not clear as well as other malts...
I had some problems with a bag of Beeston's Maris Otter
wrt clarity, but so far have had nice clear brews using this
season's Maris Otter from Crisp Maltings. Otherwise I agree
about using a good flavorful malt; I've used Dewolf-Cosyns
Pale to good effect with Sister Star.
Joel Plutchak
Brewing in the Boneyards of East-central Illinois
[275.4, 238.2] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:05:27 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62@hotmail.com>
Subject: soda taste in kegs
Your best bet is to replace the O-rings and seals in the poppet valves and
clean the keg with hot PBW followed with a good hot rinse. Then sniff the
keg after it's had some time to build up any oder. After it's been sealed
overnight eg. If it still has an oder repeat the cleaning. The O-rings and
seals won't have picked up enough oder to cause any grief.
The big thing is the rubber O-rings and seals. I've never been able to get
them free of the soda smell.
Good luck,
Joe Somewhere south rennearian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:22:51 -0500
From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty@pav.research.panasonic.com>
Subject: Re: Grain Mill Feedback Requested
Rod Tussing asks about grain mill recommendations...
FIRE IN THE HOLE!
- --
Take care,
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:17:58 -0500
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan@listermann.com>
Subject: First All Grain Attempt, Dark Malt Mashing Proceedures and Sparge Arms
My first all grain attempt was with a Zapap lauter tun. I did a step mash
per Papazian. It did not turn out very well. Why exactly, 13 years later,
escapes me at the moment. So, being male, I decided that I needed to put
more effort into the process so I did a triple decoction per Noonan in a
misguided effort to "do it right." The beer was only drinkable. I got a
copy of Dave Line's "Big Book of Brewing" and learned the simple joys of
single infusion brewing and have only looked back out of academic curiosity.
The bottom of my Zapap was the prototype for Phil's Phalse Bottom.
When I first started brewing I found that all my efforts to make dark beers
produced some very nasty astringencies. I actually made only ( Ironmaster )
extract stouts for a while due to this problem. At a Dayton club meeting
George Fix, via telephone, mentioned that adding the dark malts at the
sparge would fix this problem. I tried this to great success. I do know
of some who seem to have no problem adding dark malts to the mash. The
problem I found may be related to Cincinnati's water which is generally
excellent for brewing being low in carbonates and moderately high in
sulfates.
If your sparge arm does not spin freely under about 12" of water pressure,
it is defective. We can walk you through the procedure we use to repair
them and failing that, you can send it back. We guarantee our products for
life. If you have any problems with our products - even if you caused
them - just return them for repair or replacement. We only ask that you pay
for the inbound shipping, we will pay for the return shipping.
Dan Listermann
Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com
Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:30:57 -0500
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler
Erik Nelson asked:
>
>I am trying to find a good Counter Pressure Bottle Filler to get. If
>anyone has any suggestions of where to get one, that would be appreciated
>or if someone has a good one that they made, then the instructions and
>diagram would also be appreciated.
Erik,
You will find complete directions for homebrewing your CP bottle filler at
this location:
http://hbd.org/mtippin/cpfiller.html
It is very similar to the one made by Foxx equipment. Marty Tippin gives
excellent directions. The tools are simple, two adjustable or box end
wrenches, a hack saw or tubing cutter, teflon tape and a drill with a 1/4"
bit. Access to a Dremel tool, drill press and propane soldering torch will
make life much easier, but you can probably accomplish the task well enough
without them.
Go to your local home improvement megastore and stare for a few hours at all
of the brass pipe fittings in the plumbing section. It was either my sheer
ignorance of plumbing or the complete dumbfounding awe of a wall full of
manly-type things that made me take that long to find all my pieces. Follow
Marty's instructions and you should be fine.
Modifications I had to make:
1. Getting the 1/4" stainless tubing was an ordeal. I cheated. A buddy of
mine had some stainless tubing that came close to the required diameter from
a spent HPLC column. I dumped the column material, cut off the nuts and
scrubbed the inside of the tube clean with a brush and a host of solvents
and detergents. I know what it was used to test in the past and the worst
that could happen is that I grow breasts. At least that would make my wife
happy cause I'd have a pair of my own to play with - but that's another
thread ;-) Cut the bottle end of the tube at a 45 degree angle to prevent
the filler from being plugged by the bottom of your bottle.
2. Forget the nylon hose barbs on the gas and beer in connections if you
have flare nuts on your gas and beer tubing. Use 1/4" NPT x 1/4" male flare
connections here for quick and easy connections to your tubing. If your
filler is all metal, you can sterilize it in the oven or in a pressure
cooker without fiddling around with the hoses & worm clamps.
3. Marty says "I had to drill out the inside of the 1/4" Compression fitting
with a 1/4" drill bit to allow the tubing to slide through." Doing this may
allow for some of the pressure (and beer) to escape where the tube fits
through the drilled-out compression fitting. I do not know if it will leak,
but as an added precaution I soldered that joint. Soldering SS to brass
isn't the easiest thing, but you don't need a strong joint, just one that
fills the gaps which allows the pressure to escape. Additionally, if you
don't solder this joint, the middle of the filler may rotate around this
point and it then becomes a PITA to use. I know that for sure.
4. Also notice the distance between the two tee's in Marty's picture. There
is a space. You could substitute copper tubing for the stainless tubing,
but it bends too easily and would bend at that point, ruining your filler.
If you decide to use copper instead of stainless, just move those
compression fittings right next to each other and leave as little of the
tubing exposed as possible. I did this even with the SS tubing.
5. To solve the problems listed in #3 & #4 above, this is what I did:
Assemble the stainless tubing to the top tee with the compression fitting
and tighten. Assemble the drilled-out 1/4" MPT X 1/4" compression fitting
on the top of the bottom tee without the nut in place. Tighten. Place the
nut from the drilled-out compression fitting onto the stainless tubing and
slide the top tee assembly onto the bottom tee assembly. Thread the
compression nut, but do not tighten. Slide the bottom tee up against the
top tee as close as they can get. This way you can see where everything
will fit together once it is completed and tightened. Note where the
stainlessless tubing should meet the area that you drilled out on the
compression fitting. You will want to coat that joint with plumbing solder
paste flux. Slide the bottom tee down a little and unthread the nut so you
can see inside the compression fitting where the stainless tube goes through
it. Coat the inside of the compression fitting and the area of the
stainless tubing where they will meet with a thin layer of soldering flux.
Snip off a few short pieces of lead-free plumbing solder and drop them
inside the the open space of the compression fitting that you just fluxed.
You don't need to pack the thing with solder, a few pieces will suffice.
Slide everything back into place, check that everything is oriented the way
you want it and then tighten that compression nut down. Heat that fitting
well with a propane torch to melt the solder. You may see some of the
solder come out of the top of the nut where the tubing goes in. That's OK
and would indicate that you may have a leak-free joint. If you wantto, you
could flux and solder the area on the outside as well, but I didn't bother
and mine doesn't leak. Assemble the rest of the filler according to Marty's
instructions.
6. Connect your pressure relief valve to a length of hose with the other
done bottling!
My filler works great and it is one of the best hombrewed contraptions I
have built so far. But it still requires that I fill bottles - I love my
kegs!
On another thread:
Some have complained about sparge arms not doing the job right. One thing I
have found is that hard water will plug those little holes up over time.
You will either have to drill them out (I made mine a step larger) or
decalcify it with vinegar diluted between 1:3 - 1:4 and scrub with a
pipecleaner.
Glen A. Pannicke
glen@pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net
75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD
"We will make no distinction between the terrorists who committed these acts
and those who harbor them." - President G. W. Bush
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:44:27 -0000
From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley@blackpool.gov.uk>
Subject: FW: Mash PH Reactions
Hi all,
Two posts in One day! A record for me :>
This was a delayed post to the UK-homebrew list, anyone have any ideas?
From: Andrew Smith (I) Subject: Mash PH Reactions
Hi
This question is posted on behalf of a non net connected customer of my HB
retailor
The customer came in with a question which I wonder if the chemists here can
answer
The guy uses Thames Water with a spec pH of 7.9-8.2 but my HB retailor
(Richard) measured a sample he bought to the shop as pH 7.66. The guy is
treating the liquor with Calcium Sulphate, Magnezium Sulphate and sulphuric
acid. The overall effect of all these additions on the liquor before going
into mash is to increase the pH to 7.86 (again measured in a sample taken to
Richard).
When the mash is initially doughed in and a sample taken right at the start
of the mash it has a pH of only 4.3 but by the end of the mash is an ideal
pH 5.31. I have no information about pH at other points in the mash but the
guy is wondering why the mashin pH is so low
Is this just due to the fact that the buffering reasctions in the mash that
produce Acid are faster than those that produce Alkeline therefore initially
producing a low pH which then stabalises after some time? (as I say no
interim samples taken)
Can anyone explain this and how long it is likely to be into the mash before
the pH settles on it's final value
- --
Wassail!
The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361)
Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Rennerian Coordinates (I'm Not Lost! I'm A Man, I don't ask for directions)
This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange
as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:55:49 -0800
From: John Palmer <jjpalmer@gte.net>
Subject: re, Malting Barley Seed
Steve asks about where to get barley seed to make his own malt.
Well, Several years ago I spread a couple handfuls of uncrushed malt on the
ground in the garden, raked it in a bit, and was rewarded with a fair amount
of growth. But SWMBO said this was taking the hobby a bit far. (After I
explained what I was going to do with it and that it involved using the
clothes dryer - avoid mentioning this part)
Good Luck!
John
- --
John Palmer
jjpalmer@realbeer.com
Palmer House Brewery and Smithy
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer
How To Brew - the online book
http://www.howtobrew.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:39:26 -0500
From: "Bob Hewitt" <rthewitt3@hotmail.com>
Subject: Phil's sparger, revisited
I, too, had a spinning problem with a Phil's sparge arm. The solution was to
increase the sparge water bucket elevation.
I put a hook in my basement ceiling, and hang the bucket there. The Lauter
tun is sitting on a 48-quart thermos cooler on the floor, the kettle on the
floor. Spin O' Rama.
And Zymie, thanks for your highly useful answer to those guy's questions.
Bob Hewitt
Cincinnati, Ohio
In Jeff's old hometown....
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:47:02 -0600
From: Dan.Stedman@PILLSBURY.COM
Subject: Re: Grain Mill Feedback Requested
Rod wrote:
>I have been shopping for a Grain Mill and have narrowed my choices to the
>Valley Mill or the Brewtek Mill.
Do yourself a favor and check out the Barley Crusher (www.barleycrusher.com). I
got one a few months ago after using a JSP MaltMill for a couple of years, and I
couldn't be happier with it. Definately well-built and it has the nicest
features of the bunch (IMHO). No affiliation, just happy. I can send you pics if
you want, since the web site doesn't have more then the one pic on it.
BTW - I don't know anything about the BrewTek, but I know some people have had
problems with motorizing the Valley. Both the JSP and the BarleyCrusher will
have no problem being motorized...
Dan in Minnetonka
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:07:53 -0500
From: Brian Levetzow <levetzowbt@home.com>
Subject: RE: Listerman's Mashing Instructions
Doug points out Listermann's Web site statement:
>>"Dark malts, such as black patent, chocolate, or roasted barley, don't
>>require mashing, so are best lightly cracked and added to the mash just
>>before sparging."
And Doug inquires:
>What?? I have never heard of adding dark malts to the mash anytime
>other than with the rest of the grist. What's the point of adding them
>late? Also I was under the impression that I get some extraction out of
>dark malts, provided I have enough enzymes from my primary malt.
>
>Could someone please enlighten me.
Dan may have already replied by now, but I believe he recommends this
method because of the affect the dark malts have on mash pH. Typically,
mash pH of my 100% 2-row/munich grists stabilize by themselves around pH
5.2-5.5 without any add'l salts/acids (my tap pH is around 8.4). The
add'l dark malts would put that in the high 4s, I bet.
- --
+++++++++++++++
Brian Levetzow
~
Laurel, MD
[425.7, 118.5] Apparent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:55:08 -0700 (MST)
From: Adam Holmes <aaholmes@lamar.ColoState.EDU>
Subject: Brown Malt proportions in porter?
I've got about 10 pounds of brown malt that just got donated to me. I
guess you use this in porter but I'm not sure of proportions to use.
Anyone have a good all grain recipe that uses brown malt? Is it used in
any styles other than porter? Thanks in advance.
Also,
Re: stuff you wished you hadn't ever bought:
1. kettles that are too small (less than 7 gallons)
2. digital meat thermometer: I thought I would be able to monitor
water or mash temps and have it beep at me when it approaches the target temp.
Problem is that the thermometer is off by at least 20 degrees.
Wish I had bought sooner:
1. Refractometer: actually I didn't buy it - my friend found it at
Salvation Army store for $5 - can you believe it?
2. Kegging Setup
Cheers,
Adam Holmes
Fort Collins, CO
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:19:39 -0600
From: "George Krafcisin" <gkrafcisin@mindspring.com>
Subject: Phil's Sparge Arms
Never had a problem with keeping the whirlygig whirling, except when the
water level in my hot water tank was just about done. (I keep an Igloo
cooler elevated above the mash tun and use gravity feed.) By then,
sparging is just about done, anyway.
What I've always wondered, though, is whether or not the spray through the
air onto the surface of the mash is aerating the sparge water. Aren't we
warned not to aerate the hot side? I've never noticed any off flavors from
this, but I wonder.
Also, sprinkling the sparge water must result in cooling it even further on
it's way from the reservoir to the grain. Which means I've got to heat the
sparge water even higher to get that 170 F water on the grain.
I think I'm just going to make a copper spiral with slots in the bottom and
lay it on top of the grain bed.
George Krafcisin
Glencoe, IL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:13:53 -0500
From: "Brian M Dotlich" <BMDotlich@cs.com>
Subject: I wish I never bought...
...Those damn EZ-cap swing top bottles. I bought 6 boxes of them when I
first started brewing so that I could avoid buying a bottle capper. I've
tried everyting short of giving them away to get rid of them. It seems like
they leak off carbonation even when they have new gaskets. And the worst
thing is I probably could have gotten a decent bottle capper and a couple of
cases sam adams for what I paid for those bottles.
Speaking of Sam Adams, is it my immagionation or has Boston Lager gotten
lighter in flavor?
Brian Dotlich
Centerville OH
182.8 186.5 appearent Rennerian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:37:59 -0500
From: "KKrist" <kkrist@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Brewing Techniques -- don't get swindled
I received the following email. I'm sending it to warn others. Brewing
Techniques cheated a lot of people when the went out-of-business. Now they
reappear with the following.
BrewingTechniques Announces Back Issues Blow-Out Sale
BT contracts with third party to handle liquidation
BrewingTechniques is back to life! No, there will be no new issues of the
magazine, but the much-sought-after back issues are now available for
immediate delivery. BrewingTechniques has contracted with a third party,
Consumer's Edge Network, to handle the liquidation of its stock of back
issues, magazine binders, and selected memorabilia. The BT website
(http://brewingtechniques.com) has been updated to process orders directly
to
Consumer's Edge Network. For information on issues available, pricing, and
package deals and to place orders for immediate fulfillment, see the order
page (http://brewingtechniques.com/order_form.html). As always, you can
preview contents at the back issues page
(http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues.html).
BrewingTechniques back issues have been in environmentally controlled
storage
since the day they were produced. They are in mint condition. Perhaps more
important is the freshness of their contents. The 37 issues published over
the magazine's six-year run constitute one of the most valuable archives of
brewing knowledge available, from the rediscovery of history's greatest
brewing traditions to breaking new ground with innovative contemporary
techniques. BrewingTechniques covered the world of brewing pragmatics and
aesthetics like no other magazine. And the information is as relevant today
as the day it was released. Order today!
If you placed an order with BrewingTechniques over the past two years and
didn't hear back, please resubmit your order. With the help of Consumer's
Edge Network, we now guarantee that orders will be acknowledged and
processed
in the most expeditious manner possible. We apologize for any inconvenience
you may have experienced in the past. BrewingTechniques is also committed
to
fulfilling any unmet obligations to past subscribers. If you had a claim for
issues not received, please contact Consumer's Edge Network
(c.e.n.@netzero.net), who will work to resolve the matter.
Thank you for your patience during the past two years of inactivity. A
great
deal of content is available at the website (see the library at
http://brewingtechniques.com/library for a survey of contents). I hope
eventually to add all remaining content to the archive at
BrewingTechniques.com.
I hope BrewingTechniques continues to serve the practical interests of
brewers for years to come through its print and online archive.
Cheers,
Stephen Mallery
Publisher
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3843, 01/19/02
*************************************
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