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HOMEBREW Digest #3734
HOMEBREW Digest #3734 Thu 13 September 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
US under attack (Pat Babcock)
Re: Irishgebot? ("Fred Waltman")
World Trade Centre (Tony Barnsley)
Re: Eau de Vie yeast (Nancy & George)
Irishgebot (Nathan Kanous)
Braggott recipe (carlos benitez)
Traveling/Flying With Beer ("Bissell, Todd S")
Test Tubes and Stoppers (Bill Steadman)
3rd Palmetto State Brewers Open ("H. Dowda")
Sugar Content of Finished Beer ("Ed")
Aeration and Foaming ("Ed")
Re: Braggot... ("Ralph Davis")
Pumpkin for Beer ("Steven Parfitt")
I have to ask ("May, Jeff")
Re: Brew Pot upgrade (Bruce Wingate)
Cutting stainless ("Thomas D. Hamann")
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:42:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock@hbd.org>
Subject: US under attack
Hello.
With the terrible events in New York City, Virginia and
Pennsylvania 9/11/01, and the huge number of lives affected,
please consider giving blood for those in need and donating to
the organizations giving relief and attempting to find the
survivors of the tragedy. The following links are also available
on the main page of HBD.ORG:
You can find your local Red Cross in order to give blood at the
following address:
http://dir.yahoo.com/Health/Medicine/Organizations/
International_Relief_and_Development/Red_Cross/American_Red_Cross/
Chapters/ (You must join the lines together)
or 1-800-HELP-NOW. They ask that you call and make an
appointment.
You can find information regarding donating blood at
http://www.redcross.org/donate/give/ or 1-800-GIVE-LIFE
You can donate funds to the Red Cross via credit card at the
following site: http://www.redcross.org/donate/donate.html or
1-800-HELP-NOW
You can donate funds to various other disaster relief
organizations through http://www.disasterrelief.org/GiveHelp/
And please joind me in a prayer or, if you prefer, a moment of
silence, to remember those innocent lives lost in this terrible
tragedy.
- --
-
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 22:50:33 -0700
From: "Fred Waltman" <fwaltman@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Irishgebot?
My $.02 worth would say it has more to do with the lack of a cereal cooker
as found in most NA Macrobreweries. Whether you use black malt or (unmalted)
roasted barley wouldn't change the brewing process much, but going from
using 40% adjuncts to little or no adjuncts makes a bigger difference in the
brewing processes.
Then again, it could just be the marketing wienies talking again -- remember
Kirin's "We only use the first pressing of the malt..."?
Fred Waltman
Culver City Home Brewing Supply (Los Angeles area)
www.brewsupply.com and www.StickeWarriors.com
(still going to Europe in October to drink beer..)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:54:53 +0100
From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley@blackpool.gov.uk>
Subject: World Trade Centre
Hi All
This was sent to the UK Homebrew group this morning, I'm forwarding it to
you all as it sum up my/our feelings pretty well, I just couldn't put it
into words.
"Without wishing to bring politics etc into our e-mail brewing group, I'd
just like to send my sympathies and thoughts to our fellow brewers in
America, following the tragedies of yesterday, and which are still
unfolding.
I don't want to speak on behalf of people I've never met, but judging from
the mood here in the office at the moment, there is a great feeling of
shock over here in the UK, and I'm sure the above sentiments are echoed
by the UK brewing community."
I hope very much that no-one in your family or friends have been affected
adversely.
- --
Deepest Sympathies
Tony Barnsley
Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK
UK HOMEBREW - A Forum on Home Brewing in the UK
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 08:12:09 -0400
From: Nancy & George <homsweet@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: Eau de Vie yeast
At 01:10 AM 9/12/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm thinking of using Wyeast 3347 (Eau de Vie) to make a barley
>wine. Wyeast says it can be used to make cordials, grappa, barley
>wine, Eau de Vie, and single malts. I've previously used
>Danstar-Nottingham, Wyeast 1028, and Wyeast 1056 and am looking
>to try something new. Anyone have experience with Wyeast 3347?
My thoughts on using this (or any high alchohol yeast) on a barleywine would
be to start the brew off with an ale yeast that has the traits you want in
your beer. When this poops out, rack to another fermenter and add the high
alchohol yeast (along with some yeast energizer) as a secondary strain to
complete the fermentation.
Beers brewed exclusivley from wine yeast have a stark dry flavor and lack
some of those beery esters.
My dos centavos.
Cheers!
George Hummel
Nancy & George
Home Sweet Homebrew
2008 Sansom St. Phila PA 19103 USA
215-569-9469 215-569-4633 (fax)
homsweet@voicenet.com
www.beerphiladelphia.com/homesweet
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 08:11:58 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous@pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: Irishgebot
Hmm...some interesting messages by some folks on this....trying to figure
out how Guinness follows the German Purity Law. When I saw the original
posting my brain said "hmm...marketing." To the people that sell Guinness
mentioning (and following) the German Purity Law is different than to you
and me. That's what I'd guess anyhow....back to your regularly scheduled
whatever it is you're doing.
nathan in madison, wi
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 07:31:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: carlos benitez <greenmonsterbrewing@yahoo.com>
Subject: Braggott recipe
Jeffrey Hertz was requesting a braggott recipe - I
originally developed this as a barleywine type beer to
celebrate the year 2000, But as it is almost 1/2 honey
- a braggott might be more appropriate. This is a very
simple extract recipe but tasted great ( my friends
all loved it) When I first made it I didn't know
anything about yeast starters, so I just pitched a
pack of dry yeast ( oh no!) but everything worked
well and tasted great!
HONEYTHUMPER
3 lbs Amber DME (Munton)
3 lbs Light DME (Munton)
5 lbs Honey (generic clover type from the
supermarket)
1 lb Briess Crystal malt ( 10 lovibond) - steep at
150*F for 20 min.
1/3 lb flaked barley (unroasted/unmalted) - steep at
150*F for 20 min
Add all ingredients to "grain tea" and boil - add the
following hops (pellets)
2 Oz Northern Brewer 45 minutes
1 Oz Cascade 15 minutes
1 Oz Cascade 5 minutes
Yeast - Muntons dry ale - reconstituted as per
package instructions
Primary fermentation 10 days at 65-68*F
Secondary 1month - Bottle condition at least a
month for best results. Hope this helps,
=====
BIBIDI !
Brew It Bottle It Drink It
Carlos Benitez - Green Monster Brewing
Bainbridge, PA, U.S.A.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 07:34:02 -0700
From: "Bissell, Todd S" <tbissell@spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Traveling/Flying With Beer
Steve,
I travel allot for work (often to good beer places like Seattle and Maine),
and usually bring back with me 1-2 six packs and 2-3 22oz bottles in my
backpack (that I carry with me onto the plane). I've never been hassled by
airport security, nor by the airline personnel. Don't try drinking it on the
plane though.
As far as the legality goes, it would fall in with the same laws as what
govern carrying wine or liquor with you on the plane (i.e. "a `reasonable'
quantity for personal consumption", the laws state). As such, you can carry
a "reasonable" amount of beer with you across state lines (flying or
driving), and flying into the U.S. from overseas -- I brought back 2 6-packs
from Japan this summer with no problem. However, might be more problematic
bringing beer from the U.S. to somewhere overseas.
I wouldn't recommend checking the beer in with your checked luggage
(probably serious breakage), and I'm not sure how the pressure in the cargo
compartment would possibly affect something carbonated like beer. I would
seriously doubt that a keg would be welcome aboard, and don't even think
about taking any CO2 with you.
Cheers!
Todd S. Bissell
Imperial Beach, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 11:04:12 -0500
From: Bill Steadman <Bsteadman@elicheesecake.com>
Subject: Test Tubes and Stoppers
Can anyone recommend what type and/or size of test tube with stoppers I need
to prepare slants? I will be autoclaving them in my pressure cooker. I have
read about special stoppers that let the steam out and then seal when
cooled. I have also read about using a small piece of string in the tube and
stopper to let the steam out, then remove the string when cooling to seal.
Thanks
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:23:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda@yahoo.com>
Subject: 3rd Palmetto State Brewers Open
The 3rd PSBO will add another new twist this year. In
addition to quantity discounts a 'Just Good Beer Brew
Off' and super awards, the organizers have decided
that NO categories will be combined, even if there is
a single entry. Those are the numbered categories,
not the sub-categories. People who brew specialty
beers or beers less commonly seen usually have their
entries lumped into miscellaneous categories. "Let's
see how will we decide the flight winner, we have a
lambic, a smoked garlic pepper beer, a Dunkel and a
historic Babylonian millet ale", wonder the judges.
To get a first award, the beer must score 35 points.
If it does, it goes to the BOS round. If it does not,
it gets another award, if any, and does not make BOS.
http://www.sagecat.com/teaser2001.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:15:30 -0400
From: "Ed" <measom@gdi.net>
Subject: Sugar Content of Finished Beer
I have a question about finished beer and exactly what sugars exist in this
product. Specifically, I've recently read the popular book: "Sugar Busters".
In this publication, the authors rate foods by a glycemic scale with sucrose
being 100. Everything else on their chart is rated at less than 100 with
only one exception: Maltose, which is rated 105.
My question is directed toward the exact breakdown of the sugars in beer. It
is my understanding that most yeast strains used in beer production are very
good at converting maltose but not much else. Therefore, there shouldn't be
much maltose left and when we achieve 75% attenuation, can we assume that
the remaining sugars are other than maltose?
I know the answer will be depended on they type of beer, mashing profile,
yeast strain, fermentation regiment, etc. I was wondering if there have been
any published studies or alike on the exact sugar content of finished beer.
On a related note, I have read that gueuze has no sugar because the multiple
strains of micro-organisms used in fermentation have consumed every bit.
Ed Measom, Orlando, FL.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:15:48 -0400
From: "Ed" <measom@gdi.net>
Subject: Aeration and Foaming
"I have been aerating with an aquarium pump...and the ss aeration wand .
The problem that I am finding is that if
I place the wort into the carboy...and then aerate, that it foams out of
the top within a couple of minutes. If I try to aerate in
the kettle (5 gal batches..in 10 gal Polarware lauter/kettle) then it goes
better,...but even more than 5 minutes of aeration
leads to HEAPS of foam...and again the carboy is rapidly filled with
foam...
What do others do to reduce the foam when aerating..?"
Darrell,
I have had great success with a product called: "Wort Wizard". This is from
a company I think of the same name out of Key West, FL and can be found on
the web. Basically what this consists of two parts. The first is a water bed
venturi device that is connected just downstream of the wort chiller cooling
water exit. This device creates a vacuum which is connected to the second
part. The trick to the first part is obtaining one with threads and getting
adaptors to connect to the chiller on one side and exit tubing on the other.
This second part consists of a two hole stopper that goes on top of the
carboy that will be used to collect the cooled wort for primary
fermentation. As indicated above the vacuum tube connects the venture to one
of the holes in the stopper.
The other hole has a tube that sticks up 2" on top and about 18" below. The
tube below has 1/16" holes drilled on all sides about every inch or so. The
wort goes into the top of this tube with the holes on the under side. The
vacuum helps pull the wort through the chiller (and in my case a post
chiller since my cooling water is so warm). This helps when there is not
much drop or other pressure (i.e. pump, etc.) from the boil pot to the
fermenters. For me, this pull also has helped when using pellet hops that
sometimes clogs my system when relying on gravity alone.
As the wort passes the holes in the tube inside the carboy it aerates. Foam
is created, but this is sucked out of the fermenters by the vacuum and goes
out with the waste cooling stream.
The set up makes for a more complicated arrangement with tubes going every
ware, but I've found it easy and useful to use once set up. Clean up is very
easy. The only modification I've had to make to the original design is to
replace the plastic tube with a copper one. The holes weakened the plastic
one so much that a part broke off each time I used it. The copper tubing was
found at a hobby store that catered to model plane enthusiasts. The holes
were drilled using standard hand drill and the smallest bit I could find.
Drink Better Beer,
Ed Measom, Orlando, FL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:39:16 -0400
From: "Ralph Davis" <rdavis77@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Braggot...
As a Christmas brew, I'm currently making Braggot (Ale/Mead combination)
which has 1/3 honey in the fermentables. It's all extract, a combination
of Brewferm Christmas (Belgian), Morgan's Master Blend lager malt, Ringwood,
Kent Goldings and a little Chinook hops, and 3 lbs of clover honey. I've
finished the primary (in an open vat) (after 7 days, I finally got impatient
and racked it) now I'm in the 2ndary (in a carboy)--any suggestions on how
long to allow for 2ndary? Any other tips? The orig. gravity was 1.070.
Ralph W. Davis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:06:10 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pumpkin for Beer
Not trading, which kind to use.
There are two basic types of pumpkins. The bright orange Jack-O-Lantern
type, and a pale pasty looking pumpkin. The pale pasty looking ones are
better for cooking (better as in tastier). I would expect them to be better
for beer as well.
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:22:17 -0700
From: "May, Jeff" <jeff.may@attws.com>
Subject: I have to ask
OK. What the heck does "NAJASCYYY" mean? I've seen several of these
acronyms thrown around as of late.
Jeff May
jeff.may@attws.com
Mayzerbrau Nano Brew
- -- I'd rather have a bottle in front of me
than a frontal lobotomy --
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 07:22:26 -0700
From: Bruce Wingate <bwingate@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Brew Pot upgrade
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:09:48 -0700
From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin@intel.com>
Subject: Brew Pot upgrade
Hi,
My wonderful wife is buying me a larger brewpot as an anniversary present
& I'm trying to decide what type I want. So here are my questions:
>> 1) Stainless steel vs aluminum.
>> 2) Heat distibution.
This is really a draw. They both work OK, there are debates for both sides
of the issue.
>> 4) Size.
Go as big as you can afford. I just finished boiling 3 gallons in a 10
gallon pot, it was a little odd reaching all the way in there, but it was a
lot easier than boiling 10 gallons in a 3 gallon pot.
>> 5) Finally, a spigot. I know this is a real nice feature, but I'd like
to
>> keep it under $150 & most of the pots we've seen under that price with
>> spigots end up having something else wrong (no handles, etc).
I was going to tell you that Beer, Beer, & more Beer had nice 9 gallon pots,
but I just checked, and you're right -- no handles. St. Pat's has the
Polarware 10 gallon pot for $168 with a brass valve.
>From personal experience, I kind of wish that I have a ball valve in my pot,
because then I could limit my hoisting, and use a hose in a lot of
instances. It would also make using a counterflow chiller easier. Also,
with a ball valve for draining, handles would not be needed as badly.
Bruce.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 22:56:52 +0930
From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann@senet.com.au>
Subject: Cutting stainless
Glen wrote -
"I used a 3/4 HP Craftsman reciprocating saw with a 4 or 5"
Bluemol bimetal blade (14 teeth per inch). "
Is a 'reciprocating saw' the same as a jig saw?
Thomas
(ruelps)
Hahndorf
South Australia
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3734, 09/13/01
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