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HOMEBREW Digest #3729
HOMEBREW Digest #3729 Fri 07 September 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
hop deterioration ("Sean Richens")
measuring salt with hydrometer ("Sean Richens")
re: esters (steve-alexander)
one more thing (steve-alexander)
Looking for Homebrew Clubs/Starting a New one (Help!) ("Joseph P. Spencer III")
RE: A few notes on making Pumkin ale ("Steven Parfitt")
Anchor Brewery Tour ("David Craft")
RE: cheap shot ("Houseman, David L")
Kegging in PET and Tap-A-Draft, ("Pete Calinski")
Ball lock -> pin lock? ("Drew Avis")
Re: Homebrewing in Japan (stencil)
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Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:03:15 -0500
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens@sprint.ca>
Subject: hop deterioration
Best answer for Strom's question can be found at:
http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.1/garetz.html
If your hops were in the freezer you might be off the scale - in the right
direction.
Sean Richens
srichens.spamsucks@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:08:59 -0500
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens@sprint.ca>
Subject: measuring salt with hydrometer
To use a hydrometer's SG scale to determine the concentration of various
substances, use various common chemical references.
For my money, try to find a CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. If it's
an older edition (1970s) there's tables titled "concentrative properties of
aqueous solutions" which will answer any question you could ask about
solutions of 100-odd substances. Any homebrewer should copy the tables for
dextrose and sucrose, as a minimum.
Other options are Lange's Handbook of Chemistry or Perry's Chemical
Engineers' Handbook. There are many others, just check the reference
section of even the pokiest library (well, the downtown branch) and you
should find something.
If your circumstances really make that impossible, email me at the address
below (with the obvious deletion) and I'll try to get you something.
Sean Richens
srichens.spamsucks@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 06:12:14 +0000
From: steve-alexander@att.net
Subject: re: esters
Paul Campbell points to a nice article on the Breworld
website about ester formation in beers. He specifically
points to the data point showing an increase in isoamyl
acetate ester with decreased pitching rate and low
oxygenation.
There are at least 4 distinct mechanisms for producing
esters in beer fermentation (ignoring that hops aroma
compounds are rich in esters, fruit too). The one that
deserves prominence is the esterification of alcohols by
acetylCoA, an important intermediate compound in yeast
metabolism via an alcohol acetyl transferase(AAT)
enzyme. Fatty acids may also be involved in the
conversion. Paul is particulatrly concerned with the
isoamyl acetate (one of two banana-like esters) which is
esterified isoamyl alcohol - a fusel.
To increase the ester levels of a beer you really only
need to 1/ find a yeast that produces enough of the
specific AAT enzyme for that alcohol/fusel, 2/ provide
conditions that produce the fusel precursor, 3/ drive
the yeast metabolism to a point where the acetylCoA is
produced in excess of need and pools in the yeast cell
and 4/ get all the precursors (perhaps including fatty
acids) to the same place.
As any brewer might guess, yeasts produce roughly
constant amounts of a particulatr ester compared to
total esters. It's a property of the yeast that when
they produce esters they have a characteristic ester
flavor and probably relates the the yeasts specific
tendency produce fusels and the AAT enzymes.
Alcohols:
Ethyl acetate (solvent aroma) is esterifies ethanol +
acetylCoA. Ethyl Caproate (appley) is esterified
ethanol and CaproylCoA (a product of fatty acid
synthesis or breakdown). The production of the fusels,
like isoamyl alcohol has two metabolic terms, one
related to cell growth (so lower pitching rates increase
this) and one related to the uptake of a corresponding
amino acid. In the case of isoamyl alcohol the amino
acid is leucine. I haven't tried it, but adding leucine
to a wort may increase the banana esters if fusels are
the limiting factor. OTOH don't offer me any if it just
increases the fusels.
The acetylCoA and it's fatty-acid-CoA cohort results
from glycolysis and from fatty acid catabolism. If you
restrict yeast growth in most any way (a few exceptions)
you will get a pooling of acetylCoA. I suspect this is
usually the rate-limiting step in ester production. If
you remove some growth factor from the yeast then the
yeast will cease to grow before attenuation is completes
and they will pool acetylCoA and produce esters. If you
underoxygenate your wort your yeast will cease to divide
from a lack of sterols and unsaturated fatty acids(UFAs)
and will also get acetylCoA pooling.
Getting all the precursors together has an interesting
twist to it. It is now widely suggested that increasing
the UFA content improves the selectivity of cell
membranes keeping more fusels out and so reducing ester
levels.
So what impacts ester production ?
/Temps - generally increased temps increase fusel
production and increase the rate of the AAT enzyme
reaction. May make cell membrane more fluid and permit
the fusels in.
/Nitrogen (amino acid levels) - More aminos relative to
fermentables generally means higher ester levels. Low
amino levels stop growth but (special case) also prevent
acetyCoA pooling - so low aminos mean less esters.
/Pressure - if you ferment under pressure the CO2 level
in the wort builds up which reduces the pyruvate
(aceylCoA precursor) metabolism and also reduces certain
fusels so you have lower ester levels (and also slower
growth).
/Pitching Rate - generally underpitching generates more
esters tho' there are several possible reasons why.
The lit on the topic generally shows a significant
change in pitching rate (like 4X) is needed to have much
impact.
/Suspended solids - generally reduce ester levels! In
the case of trub the fatty acids and zinc in the trub
encourage growth and so reduce acetylCoA levels. *BUT*
even inert solids, like sand added to wort reduce ester
levels. Probably because these act as CO2 nucleation
points and reduce CO2 level increasing growth rate ...
/Increased UFAs added to the wort derease ester levels.
Likely they improve membrane integrity keeping the
precursors apart, but they may also gum-up the enzyme
works. The UFAs also encourage growth, reducing the
acetyCoA pooling, reducing esters.
/Oxygen - O2 and even small amount reduce esters
dramatically. O2 is needed by the cell to produce UFAs
and production of UFAs uses up acetylCoA directly. So
adding O2 is a triple whammy to esters - it causes the
cell to use up acetylCoA, increases the cell membrane
integrity and also incourages growth - all reduce
esters. Open ferments result in decreased ester levels.
BTW if any of you have a certain HB science book please
turn to the pages that discuss ester production and
cross out the example given of soap as fatty-acid. Soap
is saponified FAs and glycerol. The vegetable oil,
olive oil on your cupboard are good examples of almost
pure fatty acids.
-S
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 07:09:04 +0000
From: steve-alexander@att.net
Subject: one more thing
Paul C also states (re esters) ...
>1) Oxygenation is essential for yeast growth with low
>pitching rates
In brewery fermentations O2 is necessary for yeast
growth - period. Oh yeah they can take a big gulp of
air and stay under for 3-4 generation but they have to
come back up sometime.
>2) Yeast growth results in higher ester production (so
>not good for "clean" lagers)
Ummm - sort of true. Yeast growth produces esters by the
synthesis term I mentioned but lack of yeast growth when
they are stalled by lack of a growth factor like UFAs
will generally will cause AcetylCoA pooling and so
greater ester generation. This also causes slow
fermentations and a host of problems. Your best bet for
low esters is to pitch at a recommended rate (few HBers
pitch so well) or even a bit higher. This doesn't
encourage excessive growth as underpitching does, but
still allows the yeast to grow till full attenuation is
achieved (if you are lucky).
>My question [...] if one were making a clean
>lager style, should you pitch huge but NOT
>oxygenate (the latter to discourage yeast
>"growth")?
No - lack of O2 will make for some cranky ester
producing yeast. For minimal esters pitch big and
oxygenate continuously. Unless you like stale aldehyde
flavors you should stop the oxygen 8-16 hours after
pitching tho' you could use an open primary fermenter.
-S
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 02:12:31 -0700
From: "Joseph P. Spencer III" <spencer79@nethere.com>
Subject: Looking for Homebrew Clubs/Starting a New one (Help!)
Hello HBD!
My name is Joe Spencer, and I am fairly new to the Digest. I have been
looking for a good homebrewing club here in San Diego for a few months now,
but to no avail... Every good club is more than 20 miles from downtown! If
I am missing one that you know of I'd appreciate some info :o)
Another way to look at this is: if there ARE no clubs in the area, do you
all (as the armchair experts) see this as a worthwhile opportunity to start
one? I have often heart that homebrewing clubs are a great way to learn
techniques, share recipes, and run/attend competitions. Also give ya a few
new drinking buddies! Have any of you ever started a club, and can offer
advise? Please let me know.
Respectfully,
Joseph P. Spencer III
Staff Editor, DSK Historical Publishing, Inc.
www.dskonline.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:25:03 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: A few notes on making Pumkin ale
Bob Sheck Replies to "JF":
>First, you GOT TO mash the pumpkin along with the malt. So
>you must do an all-grain mash.
>Choose whatever grain you want. I think a nice CACA or
>CAP base recipe goes well here. You may leave out the flaked
>corn/rice though as you will be getting the pumpkin starch to convert.
>And you must cook the pumpkin, too. Now here's some advice-
>I use about 3 medium-sized (about 10 pound) pumpkins that I
>slice into strips and bake in a 350 F oven until soft.
Are you saying 10 Pounds total, or 30 Pounds? For what size batch 5 Gallon
or 10 Gallon. 30 Pounds of pumpkin sounds likke a alot of starch ajunct for
even a 10 gallon batch of CACA..... What percent total grist do you recomend
for the Pumpkin?
I home can Pumpking every couple of years, and have a half dozen or so pints
left I believe.
The process I use for canning is to cut the pumpkin in half and scoop the
seeds out. Place the halves open side down on an aluminium cooking pan. Bake
at 350 for about an hour, till the hull is softened and blistered, and the
insides start to become tender. Let it cool a little while. Cut in strips
and seperate the hull. The flesh comes out stringy. I put this in a big
pot, add Brown sugar and some (not much) clove, mace, and nutmeg. Cook this
down for an hour while mashing it with a big spoon to break up the big
pieces. Then scoop into caning jars, put the lids on and pressure can them.
Real pumpkin pie is not custard mush, it is stringy!
Pumpkin Porter, that might be interesting.....
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:43:15 -0400
From: "David Craft" <David-Craft@craftinsurance.com>
Subject: Anchor Brewery Tour
Greetings,
I had the privilege of visiting the City by the Bay last week. It was cool,
breezy, misty, warm, sunny and anything else you can imagine from one block
to the
next.
I called ahead and booked a tour at the Anchor Brewery, makers of the famed
Anchor Steam, in my opinion the best beer made in America. Tours are M-F at
2pm and
you must call ahead. We had about 15 in our group and it was not full. I
imagine 20 would have topped us out. In checking public transit, the #19
bus
stops right at the brewery on Potrero Hill just south of Downtown and the
new
Ballpark. We picked up the #19 bus at Market and head out the 10 or so
blocks
to the Brewery.
The building is a nondescript tan, three story, converted Chase and Sanborn
Coffee roasting building in a working class part of town. After entering
the
standard 1960s era double glass doors, we headed up to the third floor. You
walk
through a small office area, 4 desks, and then into a richly paneled tasting
room. Cabinets lined the wall with memorabilia inside and on the walls. A
bar lined the back wall, 6 taps and lots of glasses. Through the glass on
the
left were the copper vessel crucial to what we love to do.
After waiting a few minutes our guide, Kevin, came in wearing his white
coveralls with Anchor patch and name on the front. As he gave a little
history other white suited men and women came in for a taste while on their
break. He promised a taste when we finished. For our tour we simply walked
down the three
flights and back up for a taste.
The brewery is incredibly small for what I expected. Three copper vessels
for
mash, lauter, and boil. That was it. One batch at a time! Well, actually
three if they are good. All of the vessels are on one floor so gravity was
no
help in moving liquids around. Only after the beer was fermented was it sent
downstairs. Fermentation occurred on the third floor in large open stainless
pans, just like 100 years ago. The room did have positive pressure and
filtered air, so the beer was not really exposed to the elements. The beer
is fermented
at about 55 degrees. The other ales were fermented in conventional tanks.
Once sent downstairs the beer in mixed with fresh fermenting wort (one day
old) from upstairs, which provides it's natural carbonation. After aging a
week or so, it is bottled or kegged. The bottle is pasteurized for 20
seconds
at 160; the kegged was not (I think). All of what I refer to is the Steam,
which is 80% of the production. The other beers may be treated differently,
I
didn't ask.
Ah, back upstairs for a taste. I had tried all of the beers before, Steam,
Liberty Ale, Porter, and Barleywine. I had not tried the Wheat or the Small
beer. The wheat is not fermented with German Yeast so it lacked the
Banana-Clove taste. It was a crisp and slightly tart golden ale. The Small
beer is made from the second runnings from the Barleywine and is only sold
in
quart bottles. It was ok................
They also make a Christmas Beer, I had to buy a sample case to get two of
those. I have not tried them yet. I hope some kind brewer in the West will
mail me a few sixes of this Christmas specialty when it comes out this fall.
It sells out quickly!!
After tasting and meeting many on the staff, they were all very casual and
friendly, We headed off with a few souvenirs in search of Old Potrero
Whisky.
They make it there but cannot sell it there. This is a single malt Rye
aged
for a year or two in "toasted" not charred Oak Barrels. This gives it a
lighter color, but it still checks in at 124 proof. I found it at a nearby
liquor store for $65, but was convinced it worth it. It is!!
After returning home I added some water and smelled the fresh rye and
toasted aroma. The taste is bread with sublte hints of rye and slightly
sweet.
It is absolutely the best Whiskey (it is really not Whiskey or
Scotch or Bourbon, but that is another subject.) I have ever had. Certainly
worth
every penny. When you consider the strength and that you dilute it, the
price becomes more reasonable.
So I am still a big fan of Anchor Beer, the most expensive micro in our
area,
but worth it. A local company selling great beer nationally. Will they
expand, Kevin said no. They were close to maxing out now and that would be
it.................I hope so!
Cheers,
David Craft
Greensboro, NC
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:30:57 -0500
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman@unisys.com>
Subject: RE: cheap shot
While I cannot comment on Dan's assertions about the JSP vs his PhillMill I
can comment on Bob's:
"And, per an "optimum" gap, you may be right, but most home brewers use the
same malt time and time again and obtain consistent results without
readjusting the mill rollers between every brew."
I don't know what all the other brewers do, but I find that I do adjust the
rollers on my mill with every brew. I don't use the same grain each time.
My grain varies from undermodified Czech pilsner malt to American malts to
D&C to several British malts and both malted and unmalted wheat. Dan's
assertions about one gap setting being a compromise and not optimal for any
one grain is correct in my opinion. In fact, I've found that the best crush
is obtained by two passes through the mill, the second with a closer setting
than the first. This seems to be better in terms of yield and husk breakage
than just one pass at the closer setting. It seems to better simulate the
crush from commercial multi-roller grain mills. So, IMHO, an adjustable
mill is preferable in the long run, whichever one you buy.
Dave Houseman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:14:05 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
Subject: Kegging in PET and Tap-A-Draft,
The recent thread about kegging in PET and the Tap-A-Draft is pushing me to
resurrect an old project of mine. I have resisted the move to kegging
because I don't have the refrigerator space. I like to keep 5 or 6
different homebrews on hand so I can pick the style depending on my mood,
thirst, etc.
For a long time, I wanted to develop a more compact "keg" system so I could
fit 5 or 6 in the fridge. I would still use a 5 or 10 pound CO2 tank and
regulator and build a manifold and valves to pipe the CO2 to the separate
"kegs". I planned on using separate "cobra" style taps for each "keg"
I had zeroed in on components from what was called the "Double Drafter".
Some of the components of this system included:
>Quick Disconnect, Keg-A-Liter $1.80
> 38MM Tap-Cap $3.60 (A cap for the 3 Liter Soda bottle with 2 hose
connections)
> Squeeze Faucet $8.25
> Check Valve $1.35
> Three Liter Soda Bottle $0.50
Unfortunately, before I could get my butt in gear on the project, Double
Drafter disappeared.
I have considered the Tap-A-Cap but without the valve or CO2 cartridges.
That leaves just the 6-liter PET bottle. Unfortunately morebeer wants $6.95
each for them. A far cry from $0.50 for a 3 liter. I have found a source
for 6-liter but they only sell by the pallet load.
So, can anyone help me get this project back on track?
Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY
***********************************************************
*My goal:
* Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
* (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 17:53:29
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis@hotmail.com>
Subject: Ball lock -> pin lock?
Folks: I have a line on some nice ball-lock kegs. The problem is, my system
is currently pin-lock. Are the theads on the two types of kegs compatible?
IE could I just take off the ball-lock fittings & replace them w/ pin-lock,
or do I need to get new ball-lock fittings for CO2 in and beer out?
Thanks in advance for any info you have,
Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario
Visit Strange Brew: http://www.strangebrew.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 14:47:54 -0400
From: stencil <stencil@bcn.net>
Subject: Re: Homebrewing in Japan
On Thu, 6 Sep 2001 00:10:22 -0400, James D. Annan wrote in
Homebrew Digest #3728 (September 06, 2001)
>
>
>[ ... ]
>
>Oh, another question: is it safe/sensible to use screw-top PET bottles
>for beer? I saw them for sale in a HB shop. Seems easier than crown
>capping, cheaper, no heavy breakable glass bottles or expensive capping
>tool...
>
This has worked just fine for me using recycled softdrink
pints. Usually I stay with my collection of greenglass
swingtops - Grolsch bottles - principally because they are
prettier and it's easier to get them back entire when
they're loaned out. We don't drink enough soda to create a
fund of replacement caps. Some will caution against PET's
permeability to oxygen; don't use it if you're brewing
archival beer. For all that, I'm dubious that very many
O2 molecules at 3psi partial pressure will wade upstream
against ca. 25psig CO2 in the bottle... YMMV.
stencil sends
RKBA!
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3729, 09/07/01
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