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HOMEBREW Digest #3716

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 14 Apr 2024

HOMEBREW Digest #3716		             Thu 23 August 2001 


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


***************************************************************
THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

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Contents:
RIMS chamber & element (Karen & Troy Hager)
Re: Stuck ferment has me stuck... (Smith Asylum)
Yeast Nutrient (Perez)
Regulator troubles ("John Bonney")
KROC World Brewers Forum (The Brews Traveler)
RE: Cooler conversion problems ("The Holders")
Forced Carbonation ("Dan Listermann")
Is It Not So? ("Phil & Jill Yates")
Saranac Pilsner Clone ("Ed Dorn")
2 step mash ("Joel Halpine")
Re: cooler conversion (Ed Jones)
Competition Announcement: 6th Dayton Beerfest ("Gordon Strong")
("Maciag, Tony")
Wyeast 1056 High Fermentation Temperature (Dan.Stedman)
wyeast ("Scott Basil")
2 RIMS questions (Ed Jones)
Beer fests (Beaverplt)
re: Don't Do the Do (grain in compost) (David Radwin)
("Kim")
Big Brew 2001 CAP ("Thomas D. Hamann")


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Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 21:53:51 -0700
From: Karen & Troy Hager <thager@smcoe.k12.ca.us>
Subject: RIMS chamber & element

MB's $59 chamber is cheaper than DIY...???

Home Depot - 1.5" copper pipe, 4' length $11
Local Plumbing Supply - fittings $9

And as far as the heating element MB sells - 4.5kW @ 240V and 16 3/8" length
low density, rubber gasket... I am assuming this is the Chromalox SGW2457x1
(exact same specs.) ...well I just walked into Johnstone Supply and bought
one of these for $13.03... MB sells it for $24...

So if my math is right, DIY setup = $33 + change vs. MB setup = $83 +
shipping, which has to be a bit for a 5+lb package. I think I will settle
for the DIY setup with a savings of $50!!! Of course copper doesn't sparkle
like that SS does! ;>)

BTW, I know this topic has been visited and revisited, but could I hear from
some of you out there who have Omega PIDs & SSR controlling their RIMS
elements... Which models, wiring info, and any other feedback would be
great! I've searched the archives but this hasn't been discussed publicly
for a while.

Personal email is good.

Troy



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 21:58:36 -0700
From: Smith Asylum <smithly@neta.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck ferment has me stuck...

I had a similar situation a few weeks ago. After consulting with
the gurus of brews on this list and others, I remedied it by
pitching a large starter. I stepped up a White Labs vial 3X to
a half a gallon by creating a wort of approximately the same SG
(1.040) each time. I pitched it and within a week the SG had
come down from 1.036 to 1.014. I bottled it and am impatiently
waiting for the stuff to thoroughly bottle condition.

Good Luck!
Lee Smith
Chandler, AZ








------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:13:42 -0400
From: Perez <perez@gator.net>
Subject: Yeast Nutrient

There has been some discussion again lately about yeast nutrient and
the appropriate need or lack there of. In past postings some have
suggested using autolized yeast as a food for the newly fermenting
yeast in high gravity brews. What are some other forms of yeast
nutrient? I do not save the spent yeast from my beer as of yet. I'm
still paranoid about yeast and infection, but I am getting more
confident as I learn more about the proper handling processes.

Thanks

Dave Perez
Gainesville, FL
Hogtown Brewers



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 08:26:28 -0400
From: "John Bonney" <john@ruthsx.com>
Subject: Regulator troubles

I bought my keg setup about 1.5 years ago and now my regulator seems to be
on the fritz. When I turn the psi all the way down, the gauge reads 8 psi.
As I open the valve to increase pressure, the gauge feels like it is
reacting as it should, only it's giving the wrong reading of course. In
other words, if I open what feels like 1 or 2 psi, the gauge will read 10.
It seems
How would one go about calibrating their regulator?
Thanks in advance...



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 06:35:53 -0600
From: The Brews Traveler <BrewsTraveler@adamsco-inc.com>
Subject: KROC World Brewers Forum

Seventh Annual
KROC World Brewers Forum(tm)

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Keg Ran Out Club (KROC) in conjunction with the American Homebrewers
Association, the Birko Corporation, Pete's Wicked Ale, BridgePort Ales,
Shiner Bock, and The Great American Beer Festival, the is once again
very excited to bring to the Denver area "Making Traditional Beer in
the 21st Century" at the Seventh Annual KROC World Brewers Forum (tm).

Mark Dorber
Leading authority on cellarmanship and the landlord at The White
Horse Pub at Parson's Green, London.

Chris White
President and founder of White Labs, one of the premiere suppliers
of pure brewing yeast to craft and homebrewers.


The KROC World Brewers Forum is your ticket to a great evening. Sit
back, relax, grab a bite to eat and have a home or commercial brewed
beverage while hearing the industries best help you to be a better
brewer.

This is one of Denver's premier beer events and the cost to get in is to
have a great time and enjoy the company of others like you. You might
even be lucky enough to walk away with armloads of free stuff!

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cost: FREE!
Info: http://www.KROC.org/WBF/wbf2001.htm
When: 8pm-12pm Thursday, September 27th, 2001
Where: Denver Marriott City Center
1701 California, Denver, (303) 297-1300
RSVP: BrewsTraveler@adamsco-inc.com
720-984-4390

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

The KROC World Brewers Forum(tm) is brought to you by:
American Homebrewers Association
Birko Corporation
Pete's Wicked Ale
BridgePort Ales
Shiner Bock
The Great American Beer Festival


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 06:06:47 -0700
From: "The Holders" <zymie@charter.net>
Subject: RE: Cooler conversion problems

Jeff Pursley states:

"Can I just save myself some time and worry by
buying the cooler bulkhead fitting from Zymico?"

Well, of course you could!

You may also make a few more trips to the hardware store if that still seems
easier.


Wayne Holder AKA Zymie
Long Beach CA
http://www.zymico.com



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:20:12 -0400
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan@listermann.com>
Subject: Forced Carbonation

David Craft writes:

"Is there any problem with force carbonating a keg at close to room
temperature?"

I always force carbonate at room temperature. I just crank the regulator to
around 30 psi and shake for about five minutes. Disconnect the CO2 and put
it in the fridge. It is just fine in a day or two.

I shake it in a rather gentle way. I sit in a chair and lay the keg across
my knees. I use my feet to raise the knees so that the keg is wobbled end
to end. This is all the agitation that seems to be needed. Bubbles can be
heard throughout the process until the end when it becomes increasingly
difficult to shake the keg enough to produce bubbles. Sometimes the
regulator will shut off at this point.

Dan Listermann

Check out our new E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com

Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby!




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:39:19 +1000
From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates@acenet.com.au>
Subject: Is It Not So?

I have always enjoyed simple mathematics and found them useful.

If one produces say, 20 litres of wort with a specific gravity of 1050, and
you are interested in diluting it to 25 litres (using additional water). To
calculate what the SG will then be, is it not a simple calculation?

Multiply the last two figures of the gravity (in this case 50) by 20 (to
determine what the concentrated gravity would be if the water was evaporated
to leave one concentrated litre) and divide this figure by 25 to determine
what the gravity would be if you added water to make it a 25 litre wort.

Seems obvious to me. But ask a Promash user if he understands this and all
you get is a blank face.

Steve Alexander, comments please.

Cheers
Phil






------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 10:00:00 -0400
From: "Ed Dorn" <edorn@cvinet.com>
Subject: Saranac Pilsner Clone

First time post from a long-time lurker. Not many commercial beers tempt me
regularly, but Saranac's Pilsner is a consistent exception. Saranac's label
describes its Pilsner as a "light-bodied wheat beer, judiciously hopped with
Tettnang and Cascade." IMHO, it's absolutely one of the finest pilsners
that I've tasted. I'm wondering if any members of the collective can
suggest an all-grain recipe that would come close to the original.

I'm also wondering how Jeff Renner's CAP recipe compares to Saranac's
Pilsner. Private replies perfectly OK.

Thanks, Ed Dorn



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:54:51 -0600
From: "Joel Halpine" <jhalpine@esu4.org>
Subject: 2 step mash

I really don't know your format here, so forgive me if I do something
uncouth. I am a pretty regular infusion mash all-grain brewer with the
typical igloo cooler set-up. I am currently using a british pale 2-row grain
that is very low in enzyme potential, but I can get a decent pale ale with
adequate patience. I want to make a rye beer with 6.5 lbs pale, .5 lbs
light crystal, and 2 lbs rye. I am afraid I will waste time and grains with
an singel step infusion mash. I have never bothered with a protein rest, and
I want to get some advice. First, will the results I am looking for require
a 2 step mash? 2nd, are the water volumes accurate for said mash in the Joy
of homebrewing. I have found the single step infusion mash water volumes
recommended by Noonan (?-Brewing Lager Beer) to be more accurate. 3rd, the
water volumes by Papazian for the 2nd infusion are for boiling at 200 F. I
suppose I could remove the H20 at that temp, but I bet the sea level brewers
(boiling at 212) out there have their notes amended for volumes at that
temp.

Was that clear enough?

Joel Halpine


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:57:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ed Jones <ejones@sdl.psych.wright.edu>
Subject: Re: cooler conversion

On Wed, 22 Aug 2001, Request Address Only - No Articles wrote:

> I am converting a 5-gallon Gott cooler to a mash/lauter tun.
>
> I am having problems with leaking around the new fitting.
> I found some simple plans on someone's web site,
> but I cannot remember where.
> *SNIP*
> What have the rest of you done to solve this type of problem?
> Can I just save myself some time and worry by
> buying the cooler bulkhead fitting from Zymico?
> Any other ideas?

I have made my own cooler bulkhead fittings and bought Zymie's fittings.
I am very satisfied with the quality of his stuff. I use his weld-b-gone
and kewler bulkheads. I did have trouble with the o-rings sealing on the
thin lip of my Igloo coolers. I solved this with the addition of a large
rubber washer on the outside of the cooler. The weld-b-gone kettle bulkheads
needed no such thing.

On another topic, I hear Zymie is coming out with other nifty gadgets this
fall. If that's true, I can't wait to see what that fellow comes up with
next!

- --
Ed Jones

"When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment,
I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am
confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery."
- written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 12:54:46 -0400
From: "Gordon Strong" <strongg@earthlink.net>
Subject: Competition Announcement: 6th Dayton Beerfest

Entries are now being accepted for the 6th Dayton (Ohio) Beerfest. The
competition will be held on September 15th; entries are due by September
8th. All details are on our web site:
http://hbd.org/draft/daybeerfest.html. Quick summary: Easy online entry, no
recipe, 2 bottles, $5, any type of bottles including draft packaging, enter
sub-categories as often as you want (only top-scoring is eligible for prize
in a single sub-category). All 1999 BJCP styles accepted including mead and
cider. Nice wooden plaques for category winners.

Gordon Strong
Dayton Regional Amateur Fermentation Technologists
strongg@earthlink.net



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 12:58:16 -0400
From: "Maciag, Tony" <Tony.Maciag@umassmed.edu>
Subject:

Hello - longtime reader, first-time poster:

I am looking for information regarding procedures for brewing Stone Beer
(you know, heat up rocks and dump them in the brewkettle, etc)..

any direction that the HBD sages can point me will be greatly
appreciated.....

Tony Maciag




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 12:34:55 -0500
From: Dan.Stedman@PILLSBURY.COM
Subject: Wyeast 1056 High Fermentation Temperature



Hi all - anyone have any experience with how 1056 does at higher temperatures? I
just brewed a batch of American Pale Ale on Sunday and it is up to 79 degrees
inside the fermenter (isn't summer over yet?!).

Will the beer be OK or really estery? Will the yeast be OK to repitch? I am
planning on brewing again this weekend with the top-cropped yeast off of this
ferment. I am just kicking myself because I have a spare fridge and temperature
controller that I could have fired up but didn't.

let me know what you think -

Dan in Minnetonka





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 13:05:23 -0500
From: "Scott Basil" <sbasil@glasgow-ky.com>
Subject: wyeast

I have recently used three different wyeast products: German wheat, Irish
ale, and Bohemian lager. These all came in the squeeze tube packaging.
The wheat yeast did not do anything, and I had to use a standard ale yeast
when I saw no activity in my starter.
The irish ale yeast has been excelent.
The Bohemian lager yeast has barely done any fermenting. I gave it 24 hours
at room temp before the air lock even moved, and after 36 hours it was just
barely producing bubbles. I went ahead and put it in the refridgerator at 40
degrees, and it lifted the air lock without sucking back, but then went back
down.
I have roused the yeast in all three of these batches, but only the irish ale
has worked. I'm stumped. I have used the "smack packs" countless times
without a hitch, but these new squeeze tubes seem to be of lower quality.
Have others had this problem? Does wyeast still make smack packs?



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 14:21:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ed Jones <ejones@sdl.psych.wright.edu>
Subject: 2 RIMS questions

I'm currently in the design phase of my very own RIMS system and I have three
questions for you knowledgable RIMS users:

1. I use a 10 gallon Igloo cooler (round beverage cooler) for my mash tun.
I'm thinking my Phill's Phalse bottom wont have enough open surface area
for the recirculation. Can anyone recommend a good SS false bottom for
my Igloo mash tun that works well in a RIMS system? I intend to use
the 6144mm pump from movingbrews.

2. Will the POLYSULFONE quick disconnects from movingbrews.com melt if I
use them on my kettle? I have a 1/2 ball valve screwed into the SS
bulkhead on my converted keg. I would like to put a quick disconnect
on the end of the ball valve but I'm afraid it will melt. Will it be
ok or will I need to have some copper tubing extend a little beyond
the ball valve to help dissapate some heat?

3. I've looked at the RIMS chamber and heating element offered by moving
brews and it seems the way to go for me. Looking at the picture I see
the end with the tee appears to have two 1/2 FPT reducers. I don't know
what is on the other end. Where is the wort inlet and outlet fittings?
Does the element screw into the end of the tee or the other end of the
chamber?

Thanks!

- --
Ed Jones

"When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment,
I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am
confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery."
- written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 12:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Beaverplt <beaverplt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Beer fests

With the recent posts about beer fests, I'm surprised
that no one has said anything about the recent fest in
Madison, WI on Aug 11. There were 102 different
breweries each with 3-4 different beers or meads and a
couple of wines thrown in. I was amazed at how
organized this event was. They only sold 5,000 tickets
so it was no problem getting to any of the booths to
sample. They all did a 2 oz pour so it was no problem
sampling about 60 beers. Did anyone else attend?

=====
Jerry "Beaver" Pelt

That's my story and I'm sticking to it



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 13:11:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Radwin <dradwin@yahoo.com>
Subject: re: Don't Do the Do (grain in compost)

Be careful of attracting rodents. Earlier this year,
I switched to all-grain brewing and put the spent
grain (two 5 gallon batches' worth) plus the whole
hops in the compost pile. A few weeks later, for the
first time in three years of composting, I found a
mouse family living in there, perhaps attracted by the
grain.

My new plan is to leave the grain in a tightly sealed
five gallon bucket whose lid is studded with 1/4"
holes for ventilation. This should allow bacteria and
fungus in but no mice. If it works, I'll mix the
semi-decomposed grain into my regular compost bin.

David Radwin /
dradwin@uclink.REMOVETHISPART.berkeley.edu

> Glen writes re. compost thread:
>
> >The compost heap gets everything organic in it:
grass clippings, weeds,
> >leaves, hedge clippings, dead squirrels (I didn't
do it), drowned moles,
> dog >poop...
>
> In addition to keeping oils, fats, dairy products
and meats out of your
> compost to keep from attracting "unwanted elements",
one should NEVER
> compost pet feces--dog or cat. Their feces may
harbor parasites
> transferrable to humans that you don't want winding
up in your Caesar salad.
>
> Happiness is a hot pile [of compost].
>
>
> Rick Foote
> Compostin' an' Brewin' in
> Murrayville, GA




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 16:47:09 -0500
From: "Kim" <kim@nconnect.net>
Subject:

Will be in Washington, DC in about a month. Any good brewpubs, micro's et
al?

Thanx.

Kim



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 10:20:31 +0930
From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann@senet.com.au>
Subject: Big Brew 2001 CAP

I dips me lid to Jeff as I drinks me CAP from BB 2001 (finally!)

Thanks Jeff for inspiring us to make such a marvellous beer, now that
Grumpy's has a microbrewery I'll see if I can twist their arm to do a 1200
litre batch!!!

Thomas
(ruelps)

ps. Brad, must do a side by side comparo soon, any of yours left?

ProMash Brewing Session Printout
- --------------------------------
Brewing Date: Saturday May 05, 2001
Head Brewers: Thomas D. Hamann and Brad McMahon
Asst Brewer: for Big Brew 2001 at Grumpys, Verdun South Australia
www.grumpys.com.au
Recipe: Your Father's Mustache 05-05-2001

ProMash Brewing Session - Recipe Details Printout
- -------------------------------------------------
BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
- -------------------------------
01-C American Lager, Classic American Pilsner

Min OG: 1.044 Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 25 Max IBU: 40
Min Clr: 6 Max Clr: 12 Color in EBC
Recipe Specifics
- ----------------
Batch Size (LTR): 23.00 Wort Size (LTR): 23.00
Total Grain (Kg): 5.89
Anticipated OG: 1.051 Plato: 12.6
Anticipated EBC: 6.1
Anticipated IBU: 28.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 66
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Actual OG: 1.051 Plato: 12.6
Actual FG: 1.011 Plato: 2.8
Alc by Weight: 4.10 by Volume: 5.24 From Measured Gravities.
ADF: 77.6 RDF 64.5 Apparent & Real Degree of
Fermentation.
Actual Mash System Efficiency: 63
Anticipated Points From Mash: 50.84
Actual Points From Mash: 48.25

Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
78.6 4.63 kg. Pale Malt S. Australia 292.3 3
21.4 1.26 kg. Polenta Australia 334.1 1

Potential represented as IOB- HWE ( L / kg ).

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
28.03
g. Saazer Pellet 4.30 18.0 First WH
10.03
g. Cluster Pellet 7.00 8.5 60 min.
15.00
g. Ultra Pellet 2.00 1.8 15 min.

Yeast
- -----
WYeast 2042 Danish Lager

Mash Schedule
- -------------
Total Grain Kg: 5.89
Grain Temp: 27 C
Total Water QTS: 11.33 - Before Additional Infusions
Total Water L: 10.72 - Before Additional Infusions
Tun Thermal Mass: 0.30

Efficiency Specifics
- --------------------
Recipe Efficiency Setting: 66
Recorded Actuals - Measurement Taken In Ferementer:
Recorded Volume (L): 21.00
+Losses (L): 0.76
Total Volume (L): 21.76
Recorded OG: 1.051 Plato: 12.6
Actuals achieved were:
Actual Points From Mash: 48.25
Actual Mash System Efficiency: 63

Fermentation Specifics
- ----------------------
Pitched From: Starter
Amount Pitched: 100 mL
Lag Time: 12.00 hours
Primary Fermenter: Plastic
Primary Type: Closed
Days In Primary: 32
Primary Temperature: 8 degrees C
Secondary Fermenter: Plastic
Secondary Type: Closed
Days In Secondary: 58
Secondary Temperature: 4 degrees C
Original Gravity: 1.051 SG 12.6 Plato
Finishing Gravity: 1.011 SG 2.8 Plato

Bottling/Kegging Specifics
- --------------------------
Bottling Date: Friday August 03, 2001
Desired Carbonation Level: 2.50 Volumes CO2
Fermentation Temperature: 8 C
Amount In Bottles: 20.50 Liters
Days lagered: 58
Carbonation Method: Natural
Priming Medium Used: Cane Sugar
Amount of Priming Used: 122.74 g
Amount of Liquid Added: 0.53 L




------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3716, 08/23/01
*************************************
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