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HOMEBREW Digest #3700
HOMEBREW Digest #3700 Sat 04 August 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
Brew pub pioneer dead at 73 (TOLLEY Matthew)
La Fin du Monde ("Alan McKay")
Maritime Brew Pubs ("Alan McKay")
Re: Mill Motor ("Drew Avis")
Kegging ("Dennis Collins")
Kegging ("Jeff Beinhaur")
RE: Something to be considered ("Doug Hurst")
Roller mill motorizing ("Todd M. Snyder")
re: Relays for RIMS? (Tony Verhulst)
Water saving wort cooling: success! ("Stuart Strand")
Source for Waldmeister Syrups ("Mark Tumarkin")
Monascus purpureus (red rice yeast) (Dave Kerr)
wort priming vs. krausening (Karen & Troy Hager)
NIR / MIR spectroscopy (Jan-Willem van Groenigen)
White plastic and UV light (pursley)
Autumn Brew Review Festival (David H Berg)
RE: Kegging, fobbing problems ("Dennis Lewis")
One other item on kegging.... ("Jeff Beinhaur")
Halifax Brewpubs ("Alan McKay")
Re: Relays for RIMS ("Mike Pensinger")
Motorizing Valley Mills ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
another Halifax brewpub (sortof) ("Alan McKay")
Poperinge hop pageant ("matt dinges")
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Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 00:40:26 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump@home.com>
Subject: The Jethro Gump Report
The Jethro Gump Report
Bert Grant....
There will be black armbands in my brewpub for a day....if not a week.
God Speed, Bert Grant.
I know that I owe you a debt that can never be re-paid....
Sadly,
Jethro Gump
Rob Moline
Court Avenue Brewing Company
Des Moines, Iowa
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:32:58 +1000
From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley@atsic.gov.au>
Subject: Brew pub pioneer dead at 73
http://archives.seattletimes.nwsource.com/cgi-bin/texis/web/vortex/display?s
lug=grantobit02m&date=20010802&query=Bert+Grant
Cheers
...Matt...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:26:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay@ottawa.com>
Subject: La Fin du Monde
Julio mentioned this great beer in a different context, so I thought
I would send along the following note about where the name came from.
This is clipped directly from an email I sent someone the other day,
so my apologies to him if he is reading ...
La Fin du Monde from Unibroue
The name means "End of the World", and I used to know a guy who worked
for the brewery. He told me the name derives as follows. There is a
famous Quebec rock star (who is apparantly only famous in quebec because
i do not remember his name) who owns 10% of the brewery. When they
come up with a new beer at the brewery they get everyone from janitor
to president involved in naming it. So the rock star comes in to
chat with the president one day to find out how things are going. The
president tells him about this awesome new beer they have, but do not
yet have a name for it.
"It's driving me crazy, we just can't find a good name for it!!!"
And so the president apparantly kept going on and on and was really
upset about not being able to find a suitable name. As he was ranting
the rock star stops him and says "Hold on, it's not the end of the
world". And the president snaps back very angrily "But it is, it **IS**
'The End of the World'"
And so a lightbulb went off over his head, and the name stuck.
- --
- --
"Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer."
- Dave Miller
http://www.bodensatz.com/
What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:40:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay@ottawa.com>
Subject: Maritime Brew Pubs
"Well, my father was a bluenose,
and his father's father, too."
(sorry, can't help breaking out into a round of Stompin' Tom)
Hey, Harold, sounds like you'll be going into my old stompin grounds
(pun not intended!). Not the best place in the world for a beer geek,
but there are a few places I can help you out with.
In Halifax the main one is the Granite Brewery, downtown on Barrington St.
Actually, it's at the opposite end of Barrington from right downtown,
down near the old train station and TUNS University (now part of Dalhousie
U, I think). It's a big stone building and is easy to find.
If you make it down to the Annapolis Valley in the area of Acadia U,
you can go to Paddy's. They have one in Kentville and a new one 10 km
up the road in Wolfville, where Acadia is. I strongly recommend this
neck of the woods and if you do go down this way please feel free to
email me for recommendations on where to go and what to see. Same applies
if you are down New Glasgow or Antigonish way. Anyway, there are some
big political reasons why I am reluctant to go back to Paddy's, but the
beers are pretty good as long as you don't expect the "Hefeweizen" to
taste like the name suggests it should (they don't use a hefeweizen yeast).
And the food is very good, too. The new place in Wolfville does not have
the same atmosphere as the old place, so I'd recommend the latter over
the former, which kind of reminds me of McDonald's inside - blah!
Politics aside, Paddy's is worth a visit for sure.
Since I've been out of those parts for some time now, I've emailed a few
friends as well as my dad to see what else there is, and will report
back to the list as soon as I hear something.
cheers,
-Alan
- --
- --
"Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer."
- Dave Miller
http://www.bodensatz.com/
What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 12:40:52
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mill Motor
Colby Fry asks about motorizing his Valley Mill, with questions based on an
article he read in Zymurgy. As a fellow lone brewer in a tiny town, and
author of said article, I'll take a stab at some of Colby's questions:
1) Sheave size: it's not the size that matters, it's the way you use it. In
this case, it's the ratio between the sheaves that matters, based on the
speed of the motor. I used a 1725 RPM furnace fan motor salvaged from a
neighbour's basement (no, it wasn't attached to his furnace). To get it
down to ~300 RPM, you need a 1:6 ratio, or 1.5" sheave on the motor and a 9"
sheave on the mill. (And if you read the article carefully, I too was only
able to find an 8" sheave, and that's what I used). So find a motor first,
and then worry about the sheave size. Anything over 1/4 HP should work
fine.
2) I don't think I recommended particle board, I just said I used it,
because I found some in the garage. It's easy to work with and cheap, and
so far none has cracked off into the milled grain (that I can tell, anyway).
I originally had cut the base out of a piece of countertop, but that
sucker was heavy and I could tell it would be unweildy when I had a motor
and the mill attached to it.
Good luck w/ your project,
Drew
- --
Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario
Visit Strange Brew with Drew: http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:51:56 -0400
From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins@drain-all.com>
Subject: Kegging
Denis in Beechgrove writes of his keg carbonation woes. Not that I'm an
expert or anything, but perhaps I can help you a little. For most of the
beers that I brew, 10-12 PSI just about right for the carbonation at 35-40
F. This gives a nice head for most "normal" beers (Pale Ale and Porter are
what I have in there now). However, unless you are using actual beer
faucets (faucets with tap handles) with several feet of actual "beer line",
don't even try to dispense the beer at 10-12 PSI (you can guess what will
happen). The faucets and beer line add a significant pressure drop for the
12 PSI beer so that by the time it's actually coming out of the tap, it is
actually dispensing at 1-3 PSI.
So, if you are like most homebrew kegging folks, you have some plastic
tubing with a picnic type faucet attached to your keg. Neither of these
devices adds any appreciable pressure drop to the beer coming out of the
keg. So what I do is store the beer at 10-12 PSI. When it comes time to
draw a glass, close the gas line to the keg and pull up on the pressure
relief valve on the lid of the keg until most of the pressure comes out.
Open the picnic tap into your glass; if it gushes out, stop and bleed a
little more pressure off, if nothing comes out, crank the regulator down to
1-3 PSI and open the gas line up. What you want is a nice slow-steady flow.
Once there is 1-3 PSI pressure in the keg, the beer will come out at a
reasonable flow and will be carbonated at the 10-12 PSI that at which you
stored it. You can leave the beer at this 1-3 PSI for the whole night until
you are done drinking, then before you go to bed, just crank up the pressure
back to the 10-12 PSI to store the beer until next time.
This method does waste some CO2, but unless you have 10 PSI resistance in
your line, you will never be able to store the beer and serve it at the same
pressure (unless you really like near flat beer). Any other ideas out
there?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:24:13 -0400
From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur@email.msn.com>
Subject: Kegging
With all of the questions and comments concerning kegging let me again
mention some of my techniques. The key is to make sure you have a balanced
system. Let me also mention that I mostly go for bitters, pale ales and an
occasional lager/pilsner so I can't comment about all the different
carbonation levels of various styles. The brew master at our local micro
(John Trogner of Troeg's) suggests that in order to maintain the proper
level of carbonation in their beers (of which I usually have a couple of
kegs of, Mmmmmm) I should keep them at approx. 14 PSI. At this level the
proper length of the draft line should be about 6 feet long.
So I have a modified chest freezer with a three tap tower mounted in the lid
and a picnic tap is available inside the freezer. I have my CO2 input split
four ways. All four draft lines are 6 feet in length. This IMHO makes for a
very balanced system and provides a perfect pour nearly everytime. If I do
get any extra foaming (never excessive) it's usually due to either
temperature variations in the serving glass compared to the beer or that a
keg is getting close to kicking. That said the other time I notice any
problems are when my taps, lines and faucets need cleaned. Have you ever
seen the crap that builds up inside your faucet? If not then maybe now is a
good time to clean them.
As for force carbonating (which I always do) I take the simple, albeit
patient approach. After kegging my home brew I purge the remaining head
space and then simply hook up one of the four CO2 lines at the normal
serving pressure. Usually in a weeks time I have a perfectly carbonated
beer. Of course I too have done the shaking of the keg and forcing copious
amount of CO2 method but as long as I can be patient my easy method seems to
work the best.
Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA
Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:50:09 -0500
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: RE: Something to be considered
Alan Monaghan forwarded a message from the Oz beer forum from no other
than Graham Sanders which seemed to be encouraging the pirating/cracking
of Promash and Brewers Workshop.
<Rant on>
Come on! These programs are painstakingly written by homebrewers for
homebrewers. They are beyond excellent pieces of software for a very
fair price. Is 25 bucks really too much? Sometimes I think it's not
enough! (Ok Jeffery, don't take this as a reason to raise the price).
The point is, this software has provided *way* more than its cost, in
value to my brewing experience. I am personally offended that any
homebrewer would consider pirating it. Those who do are only hurting
the entire hobby and eventually themselves by doing so. Our hobby is
hard enough to make a living with (retailing) as it is. Do you really
think that these programmers are anything like Microsoft et. al.? I
mean if Promash was $400 bucks and Jeffery Donovan was the richest man
in the world I might feel differently. But, at the minimal fee that is
charged for it, and the incredible help it is, anyone who uses it
without paying should be ashamed of themselves. I hope to never again
hear from the likes of Graham Sanders on this forum.
<a/Rant off>
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 10:59:27 -0400
From: "Todd M. Snyder" <tmsnyder@buffalo.edu>
Subject: Roller mill motorizing
Hi Colby,
Just some data points for motorizing your mill. I built a two roller grain
mill with about 4 inches of crushing width and motorized it twice.
The first motor I used was a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm el-cheapo motor, V-belt driven
with a ~1.5 inch pulley to a ~15 inch pulley (10:1 reduction) . The tension
on the belt was provided by the weight of the motor hanging on it, so it
wasn't that great a setup. It worked only marginally well even after
narrowing the milling area down to a 2 inch slit (with duct tape, of
course!). My definition of marginally working is that occasionally it would
bind up on the grain, so you had to baby-sit it while it did its thing and
give it a spin if it stopped. This was unacceptable.
The second setup used a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm good quality motor (big capacitor!)
hooked with spider flex couplings to a 10:1 gear reduction box. This
configuration works well; no binding and will start-up with grain in the
hopper over the full 4-5 inches of roller width.
I guess the moral of this story is that a roller mill with about 2 inches of
roller width should work well with a good quality 1/3 hp, 1725 rpm motor and
good 10:1 reduction resulting in about 170 rpm. However, if you're going to
spend the $ for a 1/3 hp motor, you might as well pay the small amount more
for the 1/2 hp . It's worth it just to hear that sucker start up with a
hopper full of grain without so much as a flinch!
You can use whatever you're comfortable with to mount it, but I don't see
any problem with particle board as long as it doesn't get wet. I used 3/4
inch plywood to mount mine.
As far as pulleys, I don't think you want a sheave, those have either a
bushing or bearings in the center for free spinning; not much good for
driving a mill unless your using it to tension the belt or something. If you
want a big diameter V-belt pulley, I've picked up a few from the side of the
road (I just can't drive by them!) and you can have one for the cost of
shipping. I'm getting sick of moving them around!
Todd Snyder
Buffalo, NY
>I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on the type/model of
motor that I should use as well as, the type of sheave (pulley).
>I think that Valley recommends 300 rpm for a good crush.Also, Zymurgy
recommends that you use particle board for the base. Wouldn't
>particle board eventually crack off into the crushed grain?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 11:03:45 -0400
From: Tony Verhulst <verhulst@zk3.dec.com>
Subject: re: Relays for RIMS?
> Another question regarding RIMS. I want to be sure my brewery
> electronics can handle the 1,600 watts my ultra low watt density
> element will generate.
>
> I'm using a Johnson Controls thermostat and the info says it will
> only handle 10 amps of inductive load at 110V. So, I'll be best off to
> use a relay & have the thermostat trip the relay & run that directly
> from the GFI. I've heard of people using solid state relays & that
> would be small & convenient.
My Ranco controller also handles upto about 1600 watts but my problem
was even worse - I'm driving a 4500 watt heating element at the full 240
volts. I solved the problem with solid state power relays (about US$15
each). The only issue that you'll then need to deal with is supplying
the 3-11 volts DC trigger voltage for the relays, but this is simple.
See a
picture and description at
http://www.world.std.com/~verhulst/RIMS/panel_001.htm.
I would stay away from the mechanical relays, if I were you.
Tony
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:20:08 -0700
From: "Stuart Strand" <sstrand@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Water saving wort cooling: success!
A couple months ago I posted a query about how to cool ten gallons of wort
without using tap water in my counterflow wort cooler.
I finally have it working now. A submersible pump recirculates water through
the counterflow wort cooler and through an evaporative air cooler. The air
cooler consists of an 8 in duct fan blowing air across a waterfall produced
by a header pipe drilled with numerous small holes. I had hoped that this
arrangement on its own would be sufficient to cool the wort, but it would
only get the wort to about 95 to 100 F. In desperation I added a pre cooling
coil for the hot wort before it entered the counterflow chiller. This coil
was placed in the air stream as it came out of the recirculation water
cooler. It only resulted in an additional <5 F cooling. Adding ice to the
recirculating water reservoir didn't help since a whole load of ice from my
refrigerator's icemaker rapidly melted before a third of the wort was
cooled.
Finally I added another coil for the wort as it emerged from the counterflow
chiller. This final coil was placed in a bucket of ice water. Success! Now I
can achieve cooled wort temperatures of about 74 F. One load of ice from my
refrigerator's icemaker is sufficient for a 10 gallon batch.
In summary, I am able to cool 10 gallon of boiling wort to about 74 F in 20
minutes, requiring only about two gallons of recirculating water (can be
reused) and a couple gallons of ice.
Downsides: noisy, expensive, complicated.
Stuart
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:22:41 -0400
From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Source for Waldmeister Syrups
Richard Foote asked about sources for Woodruff syrup for Berliner Weisse -
Both the Red (Himbeer or Raspberry) and Green (Waldmeister or Woodruff) are
carried by
GermanDeli.com
P.O. Box 92773 Southlake TX 76092
877-437-6269
http://www.germandeli.com/GoebberSyrups.html
This source was found by Don Lake - thanks Don (both George Perrin and I got a
bottle of each type from German Deli and they were very nice to deal with).
hope this helps,
Mark Tumarkin
Gainesville, FL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:39:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Kerr <dave_kerr2001@yahoo.com>
Subject: Monascus purpureus (red rice yeast)
I was given some dried red rice yeast by an out of
town friend and have a small trial batch fermenting
(in its 3rd day, quite active). To 1 quart cooked
Basmati rice I added about 1.5 tablespoons dried
monascus purpureus and 1.5 quarts filtered water.
Very few sanitation precautions were taken - the water
was run through a Brita and dumped into the saucepan
with the rice and yeast at about 75F - as I intend to
consume the results in fairly short order.
Has anyone here any experience with this yeast strain?
The only information sources I've found on the Web
relate to its health benefits, or are industrial
scientific abstracts that appear to be more concerned
with optimal pigmentation extract. If the wine proves
palatable, I'd like to propogate the yeast myself, and
am curious about preferred culture media, storage
recommendations, etc. Any old-world Chinese recipes
for the left-over mash would also be appreciated.
Dave 'LDL 175' Kerr
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 10:18:18 -0700
From: Karen & Troy Hager <thager@smcoe.k12.ca.us>
Subject: wort priming vs. krausening
I have been reading with interest the various discussions about wort priming
and krausening going on this summer. As a homebrewer who does not filter I
can't see the difference in these two techniques in regards to the end
product.
The difference that I see is that with krausening, you are adding fermenting
wort with the yeasties up and already doing their job... and with wort
priming (and any priming for that matter) your yeast has been sitting around
for a week or two and it will take them a bit longer to get up to speed. So
I am guessing that the krausened beer will finish more quickly than the
primed beer... But, I'm sure we are only talking a few days here so who
cares?
I guess my question is: Why go to the hassle of timing your next brew
session to correspond to when you need to krausen your last batch (or, some
have mentioned, adding yeast to collected wort, waiting for it to come up to
full krausen and then pitching this into your conditioned beer)... when you
can get the same results from wort priming? Wort priming just seems a whole
lot easier. Am I missing something here?
Troy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 11:15:06 -0700
From: Jan-Willem van Groenigen <groenigen@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: NIR / MIR spectroscopy
Hi all,
I realize this posting is a bit off-topic, but it's too hot out here to
brew, so I have to do something to keep me busy.
For my work, I have been playing around with mid-infrared (MIR) and near
infrared (NIR) spectroscopes for the last couple of weeks. We are using
them for agronomy-related stuff, but I was just wondering if these machines
are also used for useful, i.e. beer-related, analyses. They are used all
the time for analysis of plant material, so I could imagine that people use
them to determine hop quality or something like that. Anybody have a reference?
Thanks,
Jan-Willem.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 13:23:38 -0500
From: pursley@webzone.net
Subject: White plastic and UV light
Dan,
Yes indeed, UV light can skunk your beer through white plastic! I lost my very
first batch of homebrew that way 7 years ago. I put my plastic fermenter in
a spot where sunlight hit it for about an hour a day. When I opened it up, it
smelled very bad. It went down the drain right away. Fortunately, I persevered
and my second batch was good. It's the only skunky batch I ever made.
Jeff Pursley
Bixby, OK
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 13:53:47 -0500
From: David H Berg <bergbrew@juno.com>
Subject: Autumn Brew Review Festival
The Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild, in conjunction with the Minneapolis
Downtown Council is please to announce the First Annual Autumn Brew
Review. The event will take place at Peavy Plaza, Downtown Minneapolis
on September 8, 2001 from 1-7 PM.
Tickets are available through http://www.ticketworks.com For only $20,
you will be able to sample over 100 different beers from 28 of the finest
breweries in the Midwest. In addition, you will receive a tasting glass
commemorating the event.
We'll also have food vendors on hand selling their wares, while live
bands perform on the sound stage.
A list of participating breweries may be found at
http://www.mncraftbrew.org
Cheers!
David Berg
President, Minnesota Craft Brewer's Guild
Head Brewer, Water Tower Brewing Company
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:10:29 -0400
From: "Dennis Lewis" <dblewis@lewisdevelopment.com>
Subject: RE: Kegging, fobbing problems
> figured out the trick to non-foaming beer. I use both a single-tap
> kegerator and a fridge with a few kegs with picnic taps. I keep the kegs
> at around 40 degrees and use 3/16" ID beer line. Everytime I wait more
> than just a few minutes, the beer I pour is foamy and has little carbonation,
> even though I dispense at 10 pounds. I use about 10 feet of hose to provide
A bit of background info first: My set-up is a fridge with four cornies, hole
drilled thru the side with the beer lines (3/16") fed thru an adjoining wall to
the bar. CO2 set around 7 psi. The room the fridge is in is around 55-58F all
the time (can you say 'real ale'?). About 4 feet of the 7' lines are much warmer
than 45F.
My theory and work-around: The beer that sits in the lines becomes warmer and
therefore cannot hold the CO2 in solution. An initial blast of foam is almost
guaranteed. Also, beer tends to have foam-inertia. Beer that is foaming tends to
stay foamy.
My workaround is to pour a an ounce or two, either dump or chug it, then fill
the glass. By the end of the first glass the faucet is also cold and subsequent
glasses fill with no excessive foaming.
If I'm planning to fill a growler, I first pour a full glass to chill the faucet
to prevent too much foam. I also temporarily drop the pressure a bit, and that
helps keep the turbulence down. I also have a hand free to deal with that first
glass too.
If you have a Rapids catalog, you'll notice that they put a lot of attention on
keeping the beer lines and faucets chilled. There are cold blocks that have
glycol lines built-in that are sized for faucet shanks or pass-thru fittings for
forced-air chilling. Not only are you keeping the beer at proper serving temp,
but it keeps the beer in condition.
Just my $0.02.
Dennis Lewis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:46:17 -0400
From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur@email.msn.com>
Subject: One other item on kegging....
One other item I thought of when it comes to too much "foam" in kegged beer
is to make sure all of you fittings are tight. I've had instances where I
didn't have a good seal on the CO2 connection to a corny keg. In addition to
using up your CO2 you may end up with over carbonated beer cause your
regulator is constantly try to apply more CO2 due to the leak. If it's a
major leak then you'll just lose your CO2 but if it's minor enough to just
affect the regulator a little bit then your precious beer will be constantly
flushed with more and more CO2.
OK, two posts in one day. I need to stop and have a beer. What a great job I
have to be able to sit in my office on a Friday afternoon and be able to
enjoy a cold one.
Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA
Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:58:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay@ottawa.com>
Subject: Halifax Brewpubs
Harold,
One buddy of mine sent me the following :
Rogues Roost -> Spring Garden @ (Queen I think)
Granite Brewery -> Barrington @ (South I think)
Propellor Brewery -> Gottigen @ (??) (in the north end )
Note that the "North End" is a bit rougher of an area, but right
on the main drag Gottigen (sp?) is perfectly safe. Propellor makes
some extremely good beers which are available at the NSLC in bottles
as well.
I am unfamiliar with the "Rogues Roost", but you should check
www.pubcrawler.com to see what it says.
cheers,
-Alan
- --
"Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer."
- Dave Miller
http://www.bodensatz.com/
What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:32:21 -0700
From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Relays for RIMS
I use Solid State relays on my system and am quite happy with them. As to
where to get them I bought mine on Ebay. If you are interested I have some
extras we could work a deal for I am sure. You will need at least a 15 Amp
rating assuming you are running that element on 120V.
Mike Pensinger
beermkr@bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 15:21:19 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: Motorizing Valley Mills
Colby asks about motorizing a Valley Mill with more than a drill...
FWIW, a more technically oriented person than I hooked up Paddock Wood's
in-store mill to a salvaged satellite dish motor (remember when TV sat
dishes were as wide as your garage?).
He was able to hook it up directly with no pulleys, we use a small rubber
spider assembly to directly drive it. I know he had to remove an automatic
switch that changed the motor direction. It is a DC motor, so we have a
transformer. We can also reverse direction to clear out the rollers.
Unfortunately, I don't know more than that, handy data like exact RPM,
electrical specs of the motor etc.
Valley Mill says that the mill max's out at 600 RPM, but at 300 RPM it will
crush about 5 lbs / minute. I estimate our RPM at about 200.
I imagine if one could find an old dish motor they wouldn't be too
expensive, and it won't require expensive gearing or bulky and potentially
dangerous pulleys. It's an idea anyway...
cheers,
Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiis sugant."
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:37:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay@ottawa.com>
Subject: another Halifax brewpub (sortof)
There is apparantly a "brewpub" down on the waterfront in Historic
Properties that has decent beer if you can get beyond the fact that
it is in a foodcourt (though being in Historic Properties don't entirely
picture a shopping mall here. It's outsidish and on the wharf).
>From another friend :
there's a mini-brewpub in a newish (3 yrs old?)
high-end foodcourt on the waterfront, though. the court is called The
Waterside, and it's worth going to. They've got a red, a brown
(porter?), a stout and (I think) an IPA. I recall the brown being
quite nice...
Sorry this is in dribs and drabs ... takes up almost the same bandwidth
either way, though.
Don't breath the "sea air" too deeply down there on the wharf as
Halifax is one of the world's few major cities with absolutely
no sewage treatment.
So don't plan on diving down to the crater created by the famous
Halifax Explosion ;-) Though there is some very good diving not
far from halifax in just about any direction, including inland.
cheers,
-Alan
- --
"Brewers make wort. Yeast makes beer."
- Dave Miller
http://www.bodensatz.com/
What's a Bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 01:31:39
From: "matt dinges" <matt_dinges@hotmail.com>
Subject: Poperinge hop pageant
Hello folks!
I'm a new subsciber and first time poster. Been brewing about 2 years, just
went all-grain and have 3 batches under my belt, but this question isn't
really about brewing per se. People keep saying that traffic is slow,
so...I wanted to find out how well travelled people are here.
I'm planning on going to Poperinge for their trennial (sp?) hop pageant in
Sept. 2002. I was wondering if anybody has been there and/or to the pageant
and could give me ANY information on it. I have sent an email to the local
tourism board and they will be sending me info, but I was hoping for some
personal accounts. I did visit Belgium for about 3-4 days back in 1998
while traveling so I'm familiar with a few cafes and such. I'm also
watching that Kolsch topic as I'd like to possibly go there as well, but
Dusseldorf seems more likely. Any input would be appreciated, private
emails are fine.
Cheers!
MATT
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3700, 08/04/01
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