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HOMEBREW Digest #3672
HOMEBREW Digest #3672 Fri 29 June 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
quality dry lager yeast ("Colin Marshall")
Subject: conversion (wayne.aldrich)
context and tragedy ("Stephen Alexander")
saflager dry yeast ("Dr. Pivo")
Yeast ("Steve")
RE: Growing Hops Beetles and Pruning ("J. Doug Brown")
Re: Conversions ("Peter Fantasia")
RE: LONG soak in B-brite (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
Half-Wit Rye (leavitdg)
Re: Tygon tubing source? ("Dennis Collins")
Re: Barley Crusher Malt Mill (Len Safhay)
protecting hops ("Joseph Marsh")
Rice in CAP/ CACA ("Doug Hurst")
Hops growing in South ("Steven Parfitt")
no need to shake my hand, no (Chris Hatton)
Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition Announcement ("Jim Suchy")
Re:growing hops and trimming vines (Dave Wills)
Re: Calories in beer (Chad Clancy)
Heating without Scorching (was: Re: Jeff's CAP/Cream Ale recipes) ("Anders Lundquist")
Re: Montreal ("B.R. Rolya")
Re: pruning hops ("Kurt Schweter")
Ulm (homebre973)
Ringwood Yeast (Wyeast 1187) ("Thomas D. Hamann")
Calories in a 12oz ("Jeffry D Luck")
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Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:28:21 +1000
From: "Colin Marshall" <byoah@argay.com.au>
Subject: quality dry lager yeast
Stephen Ross was talking about Saflager. Here in the land of milk and honey
(Oz), we get DCL Saflager S-23, S-189 and W34/70. The latter is the best, in
my opinion. They work briskly and attenuate very well. We buy in bulk and
re-package for retail sale. As long as they are refrigerated straight away,
they have a shelf life of 2 years. Normally, they only sit in the fridge for
2 months. Also available are Safale S-04, T-58, S-33 and K-97. For details
go to www.dclyeast.co.uk/
No affiliation blah blah blah, except that I sell and recommend their
products.
Colin Marshall
BrewYourOwnAtHome
Canberra.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 03:53:52 -0400
From: wayne.aldrich@dtra.mil
Subject: Subject: conversion
Darrell was asking about the mash and sparge water acidification / starch
conversion relationship. The pH value of the mash is essential
for enzyme reactions to occur. Lowering the pH value of the mash to
5.5 ~ 5.6 results in:
1. Higher attenuation limit
2. More extensive protein breakdowns resulting in the production of more
high and low molecular weight protein degradation products.
3. Reduction of the mash viscosity
4. More rapid lautering
5. Reduction of increased color changes during the wort boil.
These advantages occur in the mash only. The activity of phosphates is
increased as a result of lowering the pH in the mash. The release of these
phosphate ions has a buffering effect on the wort. Therefore, the wort must
also be acidified.
The advantages of BOTH mash and wort acidification are:
1. A shorter (optimized) mash process.
2. More rapid lautering due to lower mash viscosity.
3. A better brewhouse beer yield.
4. A mild increase in mash zinc yield.
5. A faster (cleaner) fermentation/maturation.
6. Better foam stability.
7. A softer beer mouthfeel.
The pH of the mash should be 5.4 ~ 5.6.
The pH of the wort should be 5.1 ~ 5.2.
There are several ways to lower mash/wort pH levels. The easiest method
is the addition of lactic acid to the mash and sparge water. Caution a
little
lactic acid goes a long way! Depending on the concentration of the lactic
acid
used as little as a teaspoonful may be enough for the mash used for a
5-gallon
batch of beer. Another teaspoon in the sparge water should give you a final
pre-boiled wort pH of around 5.5.
To ensure your finished wort has an optimal pH of 5.1 ~ 5.2 the addition of
an
additional teaspoon of lactic acid added during the last 30 minutes of the
boil
may be required. There are no simple solutions. Everyone has different pH
levels in their water at the beginning of the brewing process. You need to
determine
the pH level at the beginning of every brewing process. Subtle changes in
pH will
occur with different barley sources due to the presence of lactic acid
bacteria on the
husk of the barleycorn. Bottom line, you need to test your pH level at
different stages
of every beer brewing session. Paper test strips can be used but a
calibrated pH meter
will produce much more accurate results. Having said all of this keep in
mind you can
brew very good beer without ever knowing anything about your water/mash/wort
pH levels.
But if you are trying to produce consistently good quality beer pH is
important.
Wayne C. Aldrich
The best audience is intelligent, well educated, and a little drunk.
- Alben W. Barkely
(1877-1956)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 05:10:05 -0400
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: context and tragedy
Del writes ...
1/
> If I said I sent my son to the garage for the Visegrips(r) and he
>"came up with" a Channelocks(r) did I say he invented them?
2/
>Anyway you do it all the time; frinstance I said yeast evolved in a
[...]
3/
> You had said a mash-out was of little consequence, and the Tuborg
>trials showed this,
>then admitted the trials were_not_ a test of mash-out,
>and that a test of mash-out would be hard to do because of the variables.
4/
>Then there was something about how acid washing isn't even effective
>at sanitizing a yeast culture,
All these were discussed, some long ago. More fundamental - this is all
100% OFF-TOPIC wrt the H:W discussion where it began. I'd suggest we take
it off-line, but I have no interest in re-hashing ancient debates unless
you've something new to say.
===
[...]
> Then you said there is no relation between pH and conductivity.
Close - I really said ...
S[...]
S> A pretty long shot guess for someone who thinks
S>pH is related to conductivity.<<
D> It does, that is the only thing the electrolytic junction in a
D>pH probe can measure.
pH meters measure VOLTAGE at (ideally) no current flow. That's what
electrometers do. The probe creates a potential (voltage) as AJ has
described, but your extrapolation that the current is measured or even
continues after the potential equilibrates is wrong. Your contention that
pH *is* conductivity - is just plain undeniably wrong - that's why I
answered you offline (a year+ ago!).
=====
> Then you said testing for H:W would be nearly impossible because
> of difficulty controlling all the variables, but now you are conducting
> an experiment that is going to do all that? [...]
No I said PROVING (not testing) the generalization would be extremely
difficult. I've tested it a couple times and found no discernible effect.
My current test can't prove the proposition either. Have you no idea what
would be involved in proving such a generalized statement ?
>Ahh, now I seeing the humor, heh heh
[...]
>Ha Ha Ha.
Well I guess that gave you chance to air that list of grudges you've been
harboring for years and gave the rest of us a view of your knowledge,
reason and psyche. I don't care about the insults, the lack of coherent
argument, the pointless repetition or obvious errors. 'Gunny sacking' all
this hatred for years and dumping it for no apparent reason - that bothers
me. My suggestion, Del, is that you find some interest more constructive
than focusing obsessively on what I write and keeping lists of grievances
for years. I won't be responding to your posts anymore - that may help.
That chip on your shoulders obviously prevents you from hearing what I am
saying so there is no future in a discussion.
Sincerely wish you well Del, and I've enjoyed parts of our off-line
discussions. You do know quite a lot about brewing, but I haven't time for
off-topic ancient topic rehashes and arguing basics to the recalcitrant.
-Steve
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:16:04 +0200
From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp@pivo.w.se>
Subject: saflager dry yeast
The ever helpful Stephen Ross writes:
> Saflager S-23 is a great yeast, somewhat like Wyeast 2247,
> performs well at 12C and retains its lager characteristics at the warmer end
> as well, making it an alternative for the cooler 2112 temps 13C-17C.
>
> We're also looking at S-189, currently available only in 500gm units.
>
I will attest to "189" as a "true" lager yeast.
"True" enough that commercial lager breweries use it (hence the large
package size).
"True" enough that a local brewery switched from Huerliman's (liquid) to
it, and I didn't notice (and they say I have a "golden tongue"(?))!
I've used it quite a while and find it does everything that a liquid
lager yeast does, except it is a little rougher to get started..... once
it's rocking it is as lagery as they get.
One local brewer has been using the same batch for over a year.
He always brews in "pairs".
He starts his saved yeast... brews and pitches it. When it comes to
high krauzen be brews again and racks over some krauzen directly to the
new brew.
Don't know if it is his "krauzen racking" that has kept his strain
"misscreant free", but I recently tasted his "summer pils" and it was
lovely and free of off flavours.... he believes it is his krauzen
harvesting that has kept it "unmutated", and certainly krauzen skimming
was a traditional harvesting manner (could this be a limiting factor in
saving "gook" from the bottom, or racking off a slowed CKT?).
When brewing the "Pivo/Yates pilsner" (or was it "Yates/Pivo?), Wes
kindly supplied us with what I believe was S-23, which Phil pitched in
half of the wort. His preculture had a distinct banana ester aroma,
which I would of attributed to "warm culturing" and would of thought
would have dissapeared during the 10C primary, but in fact was apparent
all the way through to the final beer.
That's just a "one-off" evaluation, and doesn't say much, but I've got
literally thousands of litres brewed with S-189, and outside of the fact
that you nearly have to beat it to death to get it to squeeze out any
diacetyl, I'm completely satisfied that it behaves as it should.
Dr. Pivo
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 06:24:09 -0400
From: "Steve" <stjones1@chartertn.net>
Subject: Yeast
Greetings, all. Here is a question for the yeast gurus out there.
Whenever I buy a smak-pak or vial of yeast, I pour the last drop into a
prepared slant and allow it to grow. Then when I want to use it again, I
just drag out a sample and grow it up thru several steps. I've got
several strains of yeast on slant, some of which are a few years old.
I've got a friend who grows bugs for a living, and he has offered to
plate out and re-slant my yeasts. The problem is that one of my slants
is not labeled. I'm pretty sure that it is a Bavarian Lager, but I
wouldn't want to rely on my aging memory and have it turn out to be 1056
or something. Is there any way to identify the yeast by sight (thru a
scope, of course). Is there a discernable difference in appearance
between different strains? How about between Lager & Ale yeast? If he
could determine that it is a lager yeast by comparing its appearance to
the Bohemian Pilsner yeast, then I could be certain that it is the
Bavarian Lager since that is the only other lager yeast I have used.
Thanks,
Steve Jones
State of Franklin Homebrewers
Johnson City, TN
http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:21:42 -0400
From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown@citynet.net>
Subject: RE: Growing Hops Beetles and Pruning
I too am growing hops and this should be my first year where I am able
to harvest any, so this advise comes from previous reading and my
retention of it. I have 2 books that I could recommend on growning
hops. I believe their titles are: "Growing Hops" and the "Homebrewers
Garden".
My hops bines are now on their second year. For japanese beetle
problems you may use a beetle trap placed away from the hops bines.
However these can sometimes attract more beetles to the area, although
they do trap and kill thousands. I have heard of spraying the plants
with a mild dishwashing liquid and water mixture to deter some insect
attact, but cant remember if it was for beetles, or aphids. I guess the
bugs don't like the taste of soap any more than young kids. I think
there is even a good organic solution which was to place a sacraficial
(I think)egg plant near to attract the beetles to it instead of the
hops. Not sure of the type of plant. Any takers?
Hops pruning to 2-3 good growing bines at the base is recommended to
encourage vertical growth, keep the base airy, allow easier removal of
the lower 2-3 feet of leaves once the vine is tall. Mone of my hops
plants only sent up 1 strong bine and it has now grown above my 2 story
tall roof that the twine support ran up to. The removal of the lower
leaves it helps discourage folliage feeders. I would recommend allowing
the side shoots from the bine itself above the 2-3 defoliation line.
Hope this info is helpful
Doug
- --
J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV
Software Engineer @ ProLogic, Inc.
mailto:dougbrown@citynet.net mailto:dbrown@prologic-inc.com
http://members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug http://www.prologic-inc.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:42:20 -0400
From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Conversions
Gary asked about a formula to convert liquid and dry extract to grain. An
old issue of Zymurgy had this in it and I've used it successfully.
1lb. dry extract = 1.33 lbs grain
1lb liquid extract = 1.2 lbs of grain
This is assuming decent conversion etc..and all the other variables involved
in mashing but it should get you in the ballpark.
Another method is to go online to the recipator or beertools and use
their calculator to see if your gravity, srm, etc.. come out right when you
plug the amounts in.
http://216.74.107.197/index.shtml
http://hbd.org/recipator/
Hope this helps.
Pete aka madman on Skotrats
PS: Haven't been there for a while, can't stay up late. How are things?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:50:57 -0400
From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob@erols.com>
Subject: RE: LONG soak in B-brite
Bob Poirier (the Pear Tree? the Pear Farmer? Cool name!) Asked about
soaking bottles in B-Brite for a long time.
I recently had the same thing happen to one of my carboys in a similar
concentration solution of B-Brite, soaked 24 hours or so. You know,
gross white film on the inside of the glass, etc. Paul Kensler suggested
half a gallon of white vinegar (cheap!) to five gallons water and a 30
minute to 1 hour soak. It did the trick. It was one of those forehead
slapping moments because I realized that the reason I have a gallon of
white vinegar around is as a substitute for a descaling agent in my
coffee machine... Talk about not putting two and two together.
Now I don't pretend to understand acids, bases(?), etc., but I think
that's the principle that's at work. (I'm sure there are people on the
digest that will explain *exactly* how it works) Anyway, I didn't have
to think about it too hard, because it worked the first time. Hope this helps.
- --Rob Hanson
the Closet Brewery
'post tenebras lux'
Washington, DC
- -----------------------
"Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink
I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about
the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and
dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might be out of
work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to
myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their
dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
- --Unattributed
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:22:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Half-Wit Rye
It was real hot up here in Northern NY state yesterday afternoon...too
hot to cut the lawn, but NOT to hot to brew!
I've got several vials of Whitlabs that are dated "best before 3-11-01"
so I decided to use up a couple of them with an experimental batch. The
two that I chose to combine...due to their preferred temperatures and
style were WLP300/ Hefe and WLP400/ Wit. Hence the name, Hefe-Wit,
which I changed to Half-Wit.
Here is the recipe:
8lb Canadian 6 row
(I was told by Thomas Fawcett that this had sufficient glucanase to cut the
glucans in):
4 lb Rye
(perhaps too much...but we shall see)
I also added 1 lb wheat
and for the heck of it,
1 lb Brown Rice Flakes
I received a long-distance phone call..wasn't watching the temp well...
.so I missed the 104F rest for the
beta glucanase...and had to settle for the first rest at 128F for 30 min.
I then boosted to 148F for 30, then 158 for 30, then mashout at 169F.
First runnings were 1.090
boil gravity was 1.052
(~7 gallons of sparge water, and collected about 7 gallons of wort)
boil was for 90 minutes
after first 30 I added 1 oz Ultra (from M.Sedam)`3.4%, then another
oz after 30 more...
put some Corriander (crushed) in the boil.
OG was 1.056
pitched the hefe, and wit vials...
We shall see what results!
...Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:36:21 -0400
From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins@drain-all.com>
Subject: Re: Tygon tubing source?
Gary Smith inquired about an "inexpensive" source for Tygon tubing:
Gary, I've got bad news, there ain't any. Try US Plastics
(www.usplastic.com). I've ordered several things from there and they seem
to be pretty reasonable, unfortunately, Tygon is a registered trademark of
Norton Company and they are very proud of it. There is some Tygon tubing at
US Plastics that specifically says it is for peristaltic pumps, the 3/4" OD
x 1/2" ID runs about $3.58/ft and the 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID is about $2.90.
On another note, US Plastics has some great quick disconnects made from FDA
approved Delrin. They come as large as 3/8" ID and are just over $2.00 a
pair. I used them throughout my brewery and they work really well. If
anyone wants further details, e-mail me.
BTW, not affiliated with US Plastics (yada).
Dennis Collins
Knoxville, TN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:45:17 -0400
From: Len Safhay <cloozoe@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Barley Crusher Malt Mill
Another unsolicited testimonial to the Barley Crusher. I've been totally
satisfied with mine. Price was right; construction quality is excellent;
communication and shipping prompt.
Easy to use and I'm getting great efficiencies. NAYY.
Len Safhay
"Be Yourself" is the worst advice you can give to some people.
Mark Twain
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:58:58 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62@hotmail.com>
Subject: protecting hops
Ok somebody beat me to the joke.
I'm not sure what rose beetles are but if they're japanese beetles you can
buy traps for them so you don't have to spray what goes into your beer.
I don't grow hops but I do have a garden. I try to keep it as organic as I
can. One thing I've found is that bugs WILL find a way to eat. I've got a
hugh population of japanese beetles that have in the past cleaned out my
potatos and beans. However since I hit a lazy spell a couple years ago and
let the weeds get ahead of me they leave my plants alone. For the most part
they're eating lambs quarters and a grass I don't know the name of.
Long and short, leave some weeds for the bad guys to eat.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:00:59 -0500
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: Rice in CAP/ CACA
Jeff Renner writes:
"Rice gives (IMO) a more neutral flavor than corn. Medium or short
grain rice is apparently better than long grain. Grind it (a roller
mill is problematic - a Corona works great) to get pieces about 1 mm in
size."
What about using instant (5 minute) rice? How is this rice processed?
It seems to me that it is not as hard and could be more easily be run
through a roller mill. Would it need to be cooked as long or at all?
Someone out there must have used it before.
Personally I like flaked corn the best. No need to cook, tastes better.
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:07:13 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hops growing in South
Steven <stevensl@mindspring.net> and Tom <karnowsk@esper.com>
ask about growing hops in the south,
>Does anyone have any experience growing hops in the deep south
>(central/northern Alabama/Georgia). I've got parents into gardening >and a
>nice plot of space.
>I'm trying to grow hops, in East Tennessee of all places.
>While I don't expect any real yield, not now nor ever, the
>things are growing pretty well.
...snip...
>Should I train these up the same cord, or should I prune them out as well?
>As a very novice gardener, can anyone tell me why you
>need to prune them at all?
I think Hops is related to Kudzu.. Water them well and you will be fine.
>From Tomato growing, I have learned that these shoots are "Suckers" and
should be pinched off.
On the other hand, my Cascades are 6" from the roof of the second level. I'm
not sure if I should nip it when it tops the roof and force it to put enerby
in the shoots or not. So, I'm going to train one vine and trim the other to
see how they compare.
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:06:20 -0400
From: Chris Hatton <Chatton@aca.com>
Subject: no need to shake my hand, no
(I'm in the "spank it hard" category)
Did I even need to point this one out?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:48:21 +0500
From: "Jim Suchy" <grayling@provide.net>
Subject: Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition Announcement
Hello Brewers -
The Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition is again upon us.
Any Michigan made, non-commercial, home produced beer is eligible for entry.
Mead and cider may not be entered.
Enter as many beers as you like, but you are limited to one entry per BJCP style
subcategory
(e.g., BJCP Style 4A, Ordinary
Bitter).
Each entry must consist of two bottles of at least ten ounces, which have no
labels or identifying marks. The entry fee is $12.00 for up to three entries
and $3.00 for each additional entry.
Entries are due between July 16th and July 30th.
First round judging will be held on August 5th. Best of Show judging will be
held on August 25th at the State Fair.
This is a BJCP and AHA sanctioned competition.
Forms and more information can be found on our website:http://hbd.org/michigan
Any questions can be directed to
Jim Suchy, Competition Director
mistatefair@hotmail.com
Jason Henning, Judge Director
jason@thehennings.com
Pat Babcock, Assistant Judge Director and Webmaster pbabcock@hbd.org
Wendy Suchy, Registrar
wrmaciak@hotmail.com
Cheers!
Jim
http://www.provide.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:08:13 -0700
From: Dave Wills <dave@freshops.com>
Subject: Re:growing hops and trimming vines
If it is the hops first year, let all of the vines grow. Once the hop
gets established it will send up more and more vines as the
underground rhizomes grow out from the crown. Commercial growers will
generally run 2 strings to each hop and train 3 vines up each string.
All other vines are removed so the hop can put all of its energy into
those 6 vines. Pruning off spreading rhizomes in the early Spring to
keep the hill about one foot square will help prevent excessive
vines. Commercial growers also cut off any vines that have come up
prior to early April. This is done to prevent early flowering and
force all the flowers to ripen at the same time for harvest in Late
August to mid-September.
- --
Dave Wills
Freshops
purveyor of fine hops
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:06:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad Clancy <chadclancy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Calories in beer
Peter Ensminger wrote:
> >In HBD 3670 (
> >http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/3670.html#3670-2 ),
John
> >Thompson asked about calories in beer. You need
> look no
> >further than the HBD itself! See my web page:
> >http://hbd.org/ensmingr/ .
> >
> >Cheerio!
> >Peter A. Ensminger
> >Syracuse, NY
> >Life Under the Sun: http://www.yale.edu/yup/lifesun
Using the formulae listed on Peter Ensminger's
website, I solved for the caloric content of 12 ounces
of beer based solely on the OG and FG. In using these
formula, the OG and FG should be in the form 1.###
(i.e, 1.070)
Calories (in 12 oz.) =
-71*(10513920*FG^3-34238464*FG^2+FG*(2320455*OG^2-
7556536*OG+40323125)-11356250*OG)/312500
I compared the results posted by Jeff Renner (whose
source was Marc de Jonge and an EBC formula) and found
that the tabularized numbers differed anywhere from 13
to 29 percent from the above formula. The number's in
the table provided by Jeff were consistently lower.
Hmmmm... maybe that's where the extra inch around my
waist came from.
Chad Clancy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:55:37 +0200
From: "Anders Lundquist" <alun@nada.kth.se>
Subject: Heating without Scorching (was: Re: Jeff's CAP/Cream Ale recipes)
The centerpiece of the homebrewing universe wrote:
> I have found that
> a wire trivet between the electric element of my stove and the pot
> helps a great deal.
And many others have made similar comments in the past. Could someone
please explain the theory behind this? Or even just some handwaving
arguments.
It seems to me that all the trivet would achieve would be to reduce
the heat conduction efficiency between the electric element and the
pot, and I fail to see the advantage of that. Well yes, it would reduce
the scorching, but so would reducing the power in the first place.
OK, so I haven't actually tried it, so I guess I'm just showing my
librarian tendencies, but I kind of like to have some indication
that something makes sense before trying. (Not that I have scorching
problems, so the question is somewhat academic anyway.)
Anders (E 18:1:20 N 59:21:44 regular, whatever that is Rennerian)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 15:18:14 -0700
From: "B.R. Rolya" <br@triagemusic.com>
Subject: Re: Montreal
Ken wrote:
>I'm going to Montreal in July to see my beloved Red Sox and would like
>to drink some good beer while I'm there. Any recommendations for
>breweries or brewpubs. Do Molson or Labatts do anything special?
My 2 favorite brewpubs in Montreal are Dieu du Ciel (29 Laurier west, a
block from St. Laurent) and l'Amere a Boire (2049 St. Denis, near
Sherbrooke). The brewer at Dieu du Ciel, Jean-Francois, creates some
interesting beers and is very friendly with homebrewers. L'Amere a Boire
has a very good Czech-style lager, among other things. Cheval Blanc (809
Ontario est, near St. Denis) usually has something unique on tap and is
located in a great old bar with lots of formica and chrome. While I
generally don't enjoy fruit in my beer (unless it's a lambic), their fruit
beers are tart and tasty.
Unibroue's beers are always worth checking out and they've got some styles
that don't make it into the US. Their brewery is located just outside of
Montreal, in Chambly, and is open for tours. They also have a restaurant
featuring "cuisine a la biere".
Le Futenbulle (273 Bernard west, near Parc) is a decent beer bar with local
Quebec beers as well as imports, including some Belgians that don't make it
into the US (or at least not into New York).
Don't know what they serve at the ball park, but Boreale, St.
Ambroise/McAuslan, and Belle Gueule are 3 decent alternatives to Molson and
Labatt's.
If you're looking to bring beers home, the cheese store (sorry I don't know
its name but it's on the lower level, near all the plants) at the Atwater
market has the best selection of local beers (plus some amazing raw-milk
cheese).
- BR Rolya
Malted Barley Appreciation Society
NYC
http://hbd.org/mbas/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 17:53:43 -0400
From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter@smgfoodlb.com>
Subject: Re: pruning hops
here in So. cal, the hops in my yard are
up to the 15 - 18 foot range
thinning out the plants result in much healthier
plants and larger quantities of hops
I trim back all side shoots below the 8 foot
level as they normally do not produce
any large quantities of hops
also you will loose the bottom leaves
don't worry - the plant just wants to make hops !
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:24:14 -0400
From: homebre973@mindspring.com
Subject: Ulm
I will be going to Ulm Germany soon.
Can anyone recommend beers to drink,
sites to see, or beer houses to visit?
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 23:21:44 +0930
From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann@senet.com.au>
Subject: Ringwood Yeast (Wyeast 1187)
Does anyone know the origin of this yeast and where it gets it's name from?
In the Wyeast cattledog it says that it's of European origin, does it have
anything to do with the Ringwood Brewery in Hampshire? Do their beers
exhibit the characteristics that Wyeast claims this yeast is capable of?
thanks folks,
Thomas.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:30:13 -0600
From: "Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck@aexp.com>
Subject: Calories in a 12oz
Will the real calorie count please stand up?
We had three posts yesterday about calorie counts for
a 12oz bottle. All different. Using the example given on
the hbd web site, a change of gravity from 1.070 to 1.015
gives 230 calories. The table Jeff Renner provided shows
199 calories, and the local club's web calculator gives
257 calories.
Any takers?
-JL
Salt Lake City, UT
Having a wonderful wine. Wish you were beer.
Oh, yea, the sites given were:
http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew/tools/ac.htm
http://hbd.org/ensmingr/
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3672, 06/29/01
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