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HOMEBREW Digest #3665
HOMEBREW Digest #3665 Thu 21 June 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
Lemon Use (Chuck Doucette)
Scottish Ale Herbs ("Greenly, Jeff")
Dissolving Oxygen (Ant Hayes)
Counter Pressure Filling a Lager (Ant Hayes)
Water Analysis (Cynthia Pekarik)
("plotek")
Water of Hydration/O2/Water Analyses ("A.J. deLange")
England/Scotland Pub Tours ("Jeff Woods")
temperature control,temperature control,temperature control (Jim Adwell)
Aroma hops in high gravity wort (Dan Temple)
Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe ("Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3")
RE: Forced Carbonation ("Walter H. Lewis III")
H2O2 (Nathan Kanous)
Wyeast 1338 in Mild ale ("Peter Fantasia")
Smoke in Scottish/Scotch Ale ("H. Dowda")
RE: Forced Carbonation (LaBorde, Ronald)
Fruit Beers Aaargh! ("H. Neal Andreae")
Fermentation Temp For Sure!!! (Phil Wilcox)
Re: Forced Carbonation (Jeff Renner)
Peroxide (David Harsh)
ginger ale (Jeff Renner)
Mad River ("Echols, Brent")
False Bottom Design (John Palmer)
water analysis 4 free ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")
Milds and 1338/1968 ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
More old brewing books ("Drew Avis")
H2O2 and removing residue in bottles/carboys ("Steven Parfitt")
RE; My strawberry Wheat ("Mike Pensinger")
Re: Temperature or Geometry ("Doug Hurst")
Re: "Scottish" Ale herbs (Svlnroozls)
Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation ("RYAN WILLIS")
Re: H2O2 / German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF) (Hubert Hanghofer)
Boiling rates (David Brandt)
Re: H2O2 Oxygenation (alastair)
Carbonation & water testing (Beaverplt)
Pineapple Beer ("2brewers4u")
RE:False Bottom Design ("2brewers4u")
Fruit Beer abv ("Echols, Brent")
What is more important temp control or fermentor geometry? ("Richard Sieben")
*
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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:32:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61@yahoo.com>
Subject: Lemon Use
Thanks to those of you who have written to help me. I
was reminded that I neglected to supply info. as to
what kind of beer I am attempting to add Lemon to. I
have selected a weizenbier and am using Wyeast #3944
(Belgian White Beer). I am intending a light lemon
flavor. I do not want to over power the flavor of the
beer itself. I am also intending to use some "seeds of
paradise" in the brew.
The questions I have are: Do I use Lemon juice or
Lemon zest? How much of it do I use? And, what is the
best time to introduce the chosen method to the
process?
Thanks in advance for any help, and now I intend to
thoroughly Relax, displaying an absolute lack of
worry, and have a Homebrew!
Chuck Doucette
O'Fallon, IL., USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 02:34:42 -0400
From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj@rcbhsc.wvu.edu>
Subject: Scottish Ale Herbs
Dear Mr. Beecher,
I haven't checked recently, but I think you could obtain sweet gale,
heather and bog myrtle at the Mountain Peoples' Co-op Store in Morgantown. I
will go downtown tomorrow and see, and if they are available, I shall pick
some up for you, if you'd like. There are also a number of herbalists and
natural food suppliers on the Web; perhaps they might carry these as well.
Jeff Greenly
Morgantown, West Virginia
>Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:32:41 -0400
>From: "Rich Beecher" <rbeecher@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe
>
>19 June
>
> I've seen the following listed in various recipes for "Scottish" >Ale.
>Does anybody have any idea where they may be purchased?
>
>Sweet Gale
>Heather Flowers
>Bog Myrtle Leaves
>
> Thank you much for your help.
>
>Rich Beecher
>West Virginia, U.S.A.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:34:09 +0200
From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes@FifthQuadrant.co.za>
Subject: Dissolving Oxygen
I recently bought an oxygen cylinder and regulator and put my aquarium
pump into storage. However, I have not been able to track down metric
instructions.
I use a 1 micron air stone and pump oxygen at 3 litres per minute for 5
minutes in my 50 litre fermenter (stainless CCV - approx 60 litre
volume) - Jeremy Wallis' RoT method. The regulator is meant for medical
uses where I guess volume per minute is preferable to pressure. However,
I don't know how to convert l/min to psi (or to kPa for that matter).
Dennis Davison's excellent article in Brewing Techniques Sep/Oct 1996
seems to recommend 20 seconds at 30psi for a 5 gallon fermenter at 66F -
or roughly 20 seconds at 210 kPa for 20 litres at 19C - to get about 12
ppm oxygen levels.
210 kPa seems to be asking for excess foam. 3 litres per minute results
in foam building slowly enough not to be a concern.
Does anyone know how to convert l/min to kPa?
Ant Hayes
Gauteng; South Africa
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:46:20 +0200
From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes@FifthQuadrant.co.za>
Subject: Counter Pressure Filling a Lager
My quest to reproduce Castle Lager has run up against a problem.
I have a lager (my interpretation of Your Father's Mustache) which I
carbonated to somewhere near 2,5 volumes. However I have only ever
bottled ales at around 1,5 volumes before, and I have discovered that a
different technique is needed.
I carbonated the beer over night at 1C, and then attempted to bottle.
The bottles were at about 10C. Everything went well until I started to
vent pressure after filling - at which point, the bottles started
gushing. I found that I can get a cap on a PET bottle almost fast enough
- but crown capping is out of the question. I prefer bottling in glass.
Does anyone have any tips - would it help to chill the bottles?
Ant Hayes
Gauteng; South Africa
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 05:42:37 -0400
From: Cynthia Pekarik <74163.1163@compuserve.com>
Subject: Water Analysis
Hi folks
I got my well water analysis results.
Is my water good for brewing or how can I treat it?
Ph................................................ 7.2
Nitrate Nitrogen...................... 14.00 PPM
Total Hardness...................... 366.62 PPM
Phosphorus............................. .10 PPM
Potassium............................... 3.72 PPM
Calcium..................................... 90.27 PPM
Magnesium.............................. 34.31 PPM
Bicarbonate............................. 394 PPM
Chloride.................................... 40.00 PPM
Sulphates................................ 21.20 PPM
Total Solids............................ .05 %
Sodium.................................... 20.04 PPM
Zinc........................................... .02 PPM
Manganese............................ .01 PPM
Copper..................................... .01 PPM
Iron............................................ .07 PPM
Boron....................................... .04 PPM
Silicon...................................... 4.80 PPM
Thank you
Larry Kress
RR# 2
Rockwood, Ontario Canada
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:53:44 +1000
From: "plotek" <plotek@optushome.com.au>
Subject:
Could Glen please email me so i can
somehow get a bottle of his stinky
pinky lager?
Meat and rats were often associated
with old style "ales" and Meads as
people didnt really care in those days
Oi! goht a ale keep? loid de one wid
de rot innit? gimme too pindsadat!
Well Glen, foor pindsadat lager mait!
Surprisingly little argument from the
Pivo corner about maltose.
I just comment on what you guys
point out
Muddie
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:16:16 +0100
From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Water of Hydration/O2/Water Analyses
WRT water of hydration: There are various forms of the various salts.
The most variable is, as has been noted, caclium chloride which occurs
as the anhydride, the dihidryde and the hexahydrate. All of these are
deliquesent to some extent (i.e. pick up moisture from the air) but as
the dihydride is the most stable in this regard, it is the salt
preferred for use in brewing applications and is the one most commonly
sold for this purpose. Epsom salts is the heptahydrate and is stable WRT
water pickup. Brewers are unlikely to encounter any other form. Gypsum,
the dihydrate of calcium sulfate is similar in this regard. The
sesquihydrate is plaster of Paris which is a common enough substance but
I've never heard of anyone brewing with it. Calcium carbonate does not
pick up appreciable ammounts of water. For analytic purposes any of
these salts would be dried at 105 C and cooled in a dessicator just
prior to weighing. For practical brewing purposes this is not necessary
but care should be taken to minimize exposure of the salts to humid air.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Yes, I have done some DO measurements but I am presently far from home
and my notebooks so I'll have to rely on memory and I'll try to remember
to check this out again when I get back home (2 weeks). From recall,
oxygenation with a stainless steel "stone" at a modest flow rate gets
wort to saturation within about 3 minutes as long as the stone is moved
about through the wort. Acheiving saturation with air takes much longer
(10 -15 minutes?) Shaking a carboy takes even longer. Punching small
holes in a racking cane is not effective (can't remember the level
acheived but it's about 50% of saturation).
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
For a brewing water analysis you want to know "the significant seven"
parameters: pH, calcium hardness, magnesium hardness, alkalinity
(total), chloride, sulfate and chlorine. This assumes that the water is
deemed potable, i.e. free of pesticides, agricultural runoff etc. but
it is also helpful to know about iron, manganese, copper, nitrate etc.
If chlorine is present it helps to know what percentage of it is free
and what percentage is as chloramine. The methods for removal are
different.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:18:52 -0400
From: "Jeff Woods" <woodsj@us.ibm.com>
Subject: England/Scotland Pub Tours
In approx. one month I will travel with a group to the UK. We will be
visiting
London and Wolverhampton, England, plus Edinburgh and Ayr, Scotland.
The group has placed a tremendous burden on my shoulders to lead the
pub tours. They must have faith in me and I don't want to disappoint. In
London we will be staying at the Hilton London Olympia Hotel at 380
Kensington High Street. Edinburgh accomodations are at Herlot Watt
University. I'm looking for outstanding brewpub/real ale/pub or brewery
tour recommendations from you, the most knowledgeable beer collective
on the planet. We'll travel mostly by bus so the tube and our legs will be
the main transportation mode.
There's lots of pub sites such as CAMRA, British Pub Guide, etc. but it's
hard to know the geography and what's close by. I also plan to talk to
local people and tour guides to see what they recommend. I know there's
the Great British Beer Festival at the end of July, which is a possibility.
Doc
Pivo recently posted to pickup CAMRA's "Good Beer Guide". Are there any
UK homebrew groups that can accomodate a Yank with suggestions ?
If there are any UK homebrewers willing to meet for a pint I'll be glad to
buy.
That should spark some interest. If any takers I'll provide exact dates.
Jeff Woods
Camp Hill, PA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:33:12 -0400
From: Jim Adwell <jim@jimala.com>
Subject: temperature control,temperature control,temperature control
Forget about fermenter geometry unless you plan of fermenting 1000s of
gallons of beer at a time. Temperature control is the most important
consideration, followed closely (IMHO) by convenience; it's nice to be able
to open a valve rather than siphon. You might also want to consider that
lifting ten gallons of beer safely is next to impossible; one needs to fill
and empty big containers in place.
I ferment now in a number of 4 gallon plastic buckets, and rack these to a
glass carboy for secondary fermentation. I have made several temperature
controlled fermentation chambers ( which sounds fancier than they are) out
of particle board, plywood, and small portable dehumidifiers. These allow
me to have several carboys fermenting at different temperatures at one
time. See my brewing pages ( link at the bottom) for details. Most people
use refrigerators or freezers with external temp controllers, which seems
like the easiest way to go. The temperature controllers are widely
available at homebrew stores.
The process of making beer is more important than the equipment used, at
least at the homebrew level. Put another way, it's what you do that
matters, not what you do it in.
Cheers, Jim
in Central New York
Jim's Brewery Pages:
http://brewery.jimala.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 04:46:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Temple <danatemple@yahoo.com>
Subject: Aroma hops in high gravity wort
I have a situation coming up (tomorrow!) where I'll be
doing a higher gravity boil than usual, as I'm making
a double batch.
I can find loads of data on correction factors for IBU
calculations when the gravity is high (add more hops!)
- but can't find anything on how high gravity will
affect aroma / flavour hop performance.
My guess is that a similar mechanism will apply, but
I'd like to hear from anyone with experience before I
risk a batch.
Skaal!
Dan Temple (Copenhagen, Denmark)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:02:23 +0200
From: "Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3" <Paul.R.Campbell@is.shell.com>
Subject: Ingredients for a Scottish Ale Recipe
Rich,
Sorry I can't help with sources for these, but Sweet Gale and Bog Myrtle are
the same thing. See picture at link below....
http://www.bioimages.org.uk/HTML/P132699.HTM
Heather grows like weeds 'round these parts, perhaps I could send you some
cuttings and/or flowers? I have yet to track down any Bog Myrtle though. I
have been planning for some time to hunt some down to plant in the garden -
apparently the 'midges' hate it, but possible not as much as I hate them ;>
Paul Campbell
Glen Esk
Scotland.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:08:46 -0400
From: "Walter H. Lewis III" <wlewis@alliedlogistics.com>
Subject: RE: Forced Carbonation
My experience does not involve soda, but rather soda water. I love club
soda and thought a keg of water on tap would be great. What I have
figured is that soda and club soda are carbonated at a MUCH hight rate
than beer. I've done water at 50 psi with fair results but feel it might
want to go even higher.
Walt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:39:55 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous@pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: H2O2
Once again, I think that hydrogen peroxide is a strong enough oxidizing
agent that it would oxidize wort components BEFORE it would dissociate into
O2 and water and therefore would oxidize your wort.....not quite what I'm
looking for when I brew.
nathan in madison, wi
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:41:10 -0400
From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Wyeast 1338 in Mild ale
Phil Ritson writes about using wyeast european in english mild.
I recently brewed a batch of Charlie Papazians "Beyond the Ordinary" and I
split the batch between the european yeast and the one Charlie recommended;
the thames valley yeast. Both yeasts worked well with some subtle flavor
differences. The thames valley may have tasted a little smoother. It seemed
to accentuate the hops less.
The bottom line was I would use either one.
Pete in NJ
PS: If any one wants the recipe let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:38:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda@yahoo.com>
Subject: Smoke in Scottish/Scotch Ale
What is the basis for allowing smoked malt, especially
peated malt, in the style for Scottish/Scotch ales? I
have drunk a good many of these, on tap and in
bottles, in Great Britian and have never encountered
one with a smoky flavor. Could someone share the
name(s) of those with smoke components, especially
peated malt? My conversations with several brewer's
in the north of England and Scotland, via e-mail,
indicate that peated malt is not used for beer, only
whisky. If there is no basis, other than personal
preference, for his to be in the style, why is it? Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:49:35 -0500
From: rlabor@lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: Forced Carbonation
>From: "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith@vac-acc.gc.ca>
>
>... I've made my first batch of non-beer
>(soda for my 8-yr old) thinking it would carbonate in the keg like my
>beer does. ...
You should be able to carbonate it, but it will take a lot more than beer
would. I was easily able to carbonate plain water. I put it into a 2 liter
PET bottle, used a carbonator cap and after getting it down close to 32F, I
then connected the CO2 and cranked the regulator up around 40PSIG. I shook
and shook it and bumped the PET bottle against the wall a few times for
about three minutes. The results were actually too much carbonation. So
next time I did the same thing for about 1 minute and it was just about
right for water.
------
On the subject of H/W fermenters, let me announce my new invention - a
variable H/W fermenter. That's right, it's made of a pliable material, and
has side baffles that are adjustable. Now the only thing left to determine
is the proper time at each H/W ratio. :>)
------
Why bother with hydrogen peroxide, what's wrong with air or just straight
oxygen?
Ron La Borde
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsuhsc.edu
http://hbd.org/rlaborde
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:10:37 -0400
From: "H. Neal Andreae" <cstone@shentel.net>
Subject: Fruit Beers Aaargh!
Hello fellow Fermentists
I don't want to talk about container geometry (My glass and plastic
containers work very well, thank you) and adding hydrogen peroxide to my
precious wort just flat leaves a bad taste in my mouth (pun intended(and
shaking the be-Jesus out of the carboy works perfectly every time, 51at last
count and never an FG above 1.014)
I do extract w/PM's mostly and my dear and lovely wife wishes me to produce
a fruit beer. Good Lord. Cherries no less. My God. And I was wondering if
anyone out there has any experience with this. What kind of cherries? I
prefer not to use that canned mush they sell. I read that adding cherries to
the wort above 160F would "set the pectin" and give a permanent haze. Anyone
got any tips, do or don't advice? Anything? Oh the Humanity.
Yours in Spirits
Neal Andreae
Near the Blue Ridge Mountains in Upperville, Virginia
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:19:56 -0400
From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox@cmsenergy.com>
Subject: Fermentation Temp For Sure!!!
Jim,
No question about it in my book. With the extra fridge you can ferment
any kind of beer at any temp easily. 80F degree belgians and 45F lagers.
With a conical fermentor, you "might" improve your beer. With a 10 Gal
CC you might increase your thermal mass thus making your runaway temps
even worse. Fermenting at the right temp for your yeast WILL improve
your beer.
Unless you have a medical reason for not wanting to move around carboys
or buckets, I suggest leaving the 10 CC to single guys with bad backs
and fat wallets;<)
Phil Wilcox
Proud owner of 2 fridges, a chest freezer, and 7 fermentor types, none
of them conical...yet
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:16:02 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Forced Carbonation
"Jamie Smith" <jxsmith@vac-acc.gc.ca> wrote from PEI:
>The force is no longer with me. I've made my first batch of non-beer
>(soda for my 8-yr old) thinking it would carbonate in the keg like my
>beer does. So far it's been in the fridge for almost 2 weeks with little
>sign of bubbles. The beer attached to the same system is working as
>well as it always does.
>
>Any thoughts? It's a simple soda kit: syrup, water and sugar. I didn't
>go with the yeast as I though I wouldn't need to, and I figured I'd get a
>better taste...
Soda needs more carbonation than beer. I think I must crank the
pressure up over 20 psi, then turn it down for dispensing. It always
works fine for me. I mean, we're talking simple physics here -
solubility of CO2.
You could try putting the keg across your knees and rocking it back
and forth and listen for the CO2 bubbling in.
If there is no carbonation, I suspect a leak.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:45:41 -0400
From: David Harsh <dharsh@fuse.net>
Subject: Peroxide
Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@mediaone.net> wrote:
> I seem to remember from this discussion several years ago a
> convincing argument (AJ?) that H2O2 is such a powerful oxidizer that
> it would likely instantly oxidize wort components.
I confess to having said this a couple of years ago. I also confess
that I have no reference to back it up, but I was told once in a
microbiology lab that the oxygen radical production was the mechanism
for sanitation by H2O2. I inferred that if the oxygen radical produced
didn't combine with another radical and produce oxygen bubbles, it would
oxidize whatever it came in contact with first. While I'm pretty sure
that wort oxidation is a possiblity, I'm not sure how much it would take
to make a difference from a taste perception standpoint.
I'm sure I can count on someone to do the research and report back if
I'm wrong. (I'd try an inorganic chemistry reference)
Dave Harsh Cincinnati, OH
Bloatarian Brewing League
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:52:01 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner@mediaone.net>
Subject: ginger ale
Jamie's question about force carbonating soda made me think that it
was time to repost my ginger ale recipe. I just posted it to the Oz
Craft Brewing list in response to a request. It's a fairly dry soda.
Many recipes call for 5 lbs of sugar.
This was adapted from a recipe from Mike O'Brien, manufacturer of
pico-Brewing Systems of Ypsilanti, Michigan. I added the cardomom,
lemon zest and ascorbic acid (anti-oxidant). I thought I had used
some coriander as well, but I guess I didn't. I probably will next
time.
I made it for our son's wedding reception in our back yard last July,
and we went through about 3 gallons. It was very popular. The rest
kept well in the fridge as we finished it up over the next few weeks.
The sediment made the first few glasses pretty cloudy, although that
doesn't bother me. I racked it into a purged keg and got it off most
of the sediment.
Ingredients for 5 gallons (US), 19 liters:
1 4-ounce (115 g) jar of fresh (not dry) ground ginger (this is a new
product around here, you could just peel and macerate fresh ginger
root in a blender or food processor with a little water)
juice of three lemons
zest of one lemon, finely minced
1 tsp (5ml) freshly ground cardomom (don't buy it pre-ground)
3 lbs sugar (1350 g)
1/4 tsp. ascorbic acid
2-1/4 tsp (12 ml) potassium sorbate
5 gallons (19 l) deionized water (or any good quality neutral water)
Procedure:
Heat flavorings in 1 quart (liter) of water to near boiling, add
sugar until dissolved, add to corny keg with rest of ingredients.
Chill in fridge and carbonate to 3.5 volumes or even more. After
several days, adjust carbonation if necessary, draw off a little
until it's somewhat clear, then rack off sludge into another purged
and pressurized keg. Be sure to cut off flow as soon as you notice
sludge moving through the (hopefully clear) racking hose.
This needs a fairly long dispensing hose to serve at this pressure.
It should be a highly carbonated drink.
If anybody makes this, please report back to HBD.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:53:17 -0700
From: "Echols, Brent" <BEchols@hineshort.com>
Subject: Mad River
After brewing my third IPA in the last 6 months, I realized that I am
addicted to hops.
While I've been pleased with the different recipes I've tried, I realized
yesterday that I
haven't even gotten close to one of my favorite beers, Jamaica Red, from Mad
River Brewing.
Has anyone seen an all-grain replica of this wonderful beer?
I've pretty much found the basic info:
OG 1065
FG 1012
IBU 38 (seems quite low...)
I just can't figure out what hops/combination of hops they use..
Anyone got an idea?
Thanks much..
brent
beautiful Pacheco, CA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:09:07 -0700
From: John Palmer <jjpalmer@gte.net>
Subject: False Bottom Design
Kevin asks which false bottom material is better 3/32 on 5/32 centers or
stainless steel (window?) screen supported by (ex. barbeque grill) because
the screen has a much larger open area.
Based on our (Brian Kern and I) numerical models, I can assure you that
3/32 on 5/32 is perfectly adequate. More open area does not buy you
anything in terms of extraction. A full area false bottom delivers 99%
lautering efficiency.
Check out our talk at the AHA NHC conference for more info. We will post
the majority of it after the conference in the next couple weeks.
Cheers,
John
John Palmer
Monrovia, CA
homepage
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer
How To Brew - the online book
http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:10:24 -0600
From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany@co.el-paso.tx.us>
Subject: water analysis 4 free
Ed Jones asks about water analysis...
Culligan offers a FREE test kit that will give you some good information
about your home water supply. Go to www.culligan.com No affiliation, etc.
Also, you might have to wait 6-8 weeks or so before the kit appears in your
mailbox. But, hey, it's FREE. And its kind of fun to use too. My nephews
liked watching the water samples change colors.
Ricardo
El Paso, TX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:30:53 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: Milds and 1338/1968
Philip asks about experiences with Wyeast 1338 in Mild.
Our suggestions for Milds in order of preference are: Wyeast 1968, 1338,
1318
I love the malty richness and rapid clearing of 1968, and it leaves plenty
of residual sugars. It is perfect for a fruity mild, but perhaps not right
for a light clean mild.
1338 is a close second, and I have no hesitation using it, but it tends to
be less estery, so if fruitiness is a desired component, consider 1318
instead. We use 1338 for psuedo-lagers, it is malty but quite clean at
cooler ale temps, and we use it for Koelsch style ales and Mocktoberfests
where folks can't get temps low enough for even 2112.
You may also wish to consider the dry Safale S-04. It is quite similar,
IMHO, and falls somewhere between 1968 and 1338 in maltiness, med flocc, med
att.
Hope this is useful,
Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiis sugant."
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:35:03
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis@hotmail.com>
Subject: More old brewing books
Brewers: the great geometry debate of 2001 sent me off to my brewing library
for a few weeks, seeking solace in some old books while the thread meets its
(one can only hope) clinitest-esque demise.
So to re-kindle the recent "old brewing books" thread, I thought I'd mention
my favourite brewing text: _An Essay on Brewing, Vintage and Distillation
Together With Selected Remedies for Hangover Melancholia, or How To Make
Booze_, authored and illustrated by John F. Adams, published in 1966. I
like it because it is intelligently and wittily written, and chock full of
the most terrible advice. I'll quote just one example to give a taste:
"Yeast is a subject upon which a nonprofessional shouldn't write, and a
professional can't. At least for the service of an amateur brewer he can't.
... If you purchase yeast from a malt shop, or homebrew supply catalogue you
will be intimidated. Such outlets naturally want to sell yeast, and will
warn you that you must use one 'packet' of yeast for each five gallons you
brew. Considering the rate at which yeast cells multiply, this is obvious
nonsense."
You've come a long way, baby!
Drew Avis, inventing the Belgian Stout in Merrickville, Ontario
http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:36:35 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: H2O2 and removing residue in bottles/carboys
With regards to H2O2 as an O2 source, what causes H2O2 to release the
additional oxygen atom??? 2H2O2 >> 2H2O + O2??
There have been several posts concerning residue in bottles and cleaning the
inside of carboys.
Being the lazy person I am (but still sanitation concous) I wash my carboys
with water that I spray in the neck with pinched vinyl tubing to create a
spray to dislodge the big chunks of the Kreussen ring. After rinsing as much
as I can get out easily, I pour 1/4C bleach in it and top with cold water.
Let it set for three days and dump it. Rinse, and invert to dry.
Bottles with a hazy film get the same treatment, except less chlorox of
course.
I have found a three day exposure to this concentration of Chlorox (NaHCO3?)
will remove most any stains.
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:51:05 -0700
From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE; My strawberry Wheat
I would think that your efficency would be directly proportional to the lack
of filter media available in your mash. I would guess that the mash bed
channelized and did not get an efficient rinsing. More conventional grain
or rice hulls would provide a better filter bed.
Mike Pensinger
beermkr@bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:00:39 -0500
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: Re: Temperature or Geometry
Jim Moeller writes:
"What is more important, temperature control during fermentation or
fermenters geometry?"
You could determine, after 60 years of debate and 2 minutes of well
designed experimentation, the 'perfect' geometry for a fermenter, but
you can't brew lagers (or ales) in it if the temperature is too high.
So, I would recomend buying the less expensive keg fermenter and getting
a refrigerator with it.
On the other hand, It sounds like your average basement temperature is
perfect for ale brewing, so you'd have the extra money for the fancy
cylindroconical fermenter. I think the 80F temperature you're measuring
may be caused by the yeast, which does produce noticable heat during the
height of fermentation.
Maybe someone could tell us whether yeast typically cause a 12F or more
rise in temperature (it seems high to me). And whether this is
something that should be compensated for. In other words, if the
fermenter temperature rises 12 degrees above ambient, should the ambient
temp be brought down by 12 degrees?
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:07:12 EDT
From: Svlnroozls@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Scottish" Ale herbs
In a message dated 6/19/01 9:10:36 PM, homebrew-request@hbd.org writes:
>19 June
>
> I've seen the following listed in various recipes for "Scottish" Ale.
>
>Does anybody have any idea where they may be purchased?
>
>Sweet Gale
>Heather Flowers
>Bog Myrtle Leaves
>
> Thank you much for your help.
>
>Rich Beecher
>West Virginia, U.S.A.
Rich, as a matter of fact, our local homebrew supply store carries these
three herbs plus Yarrow, and several of us in the Maltose Falcons Home
Brewing Society have brewed with these herbs, some used just the heather
others of us used the oter two with the addition of Yarrow. They're old
traditional brewing herbs predating the use of hops when brewers would use
various herb blends called the "gruit" as we use hops. They are said to have
an intoxicating and invigorating effect in brew. Some of our brewers will
attest to this. In one brew, after adding the herbs in the boil, we also
added more in dry form to the secondary fermenter. They must have carried in
some kind of infection, as the beer acquired a tartness akin to an Oud Bruin.
In the future I would only add them during the boil.
The store where we grabbed our gruit has a website at
www.homebeerwinecheese.com and you can probably buy from there, or the
shopkeeper might be able to tell you where else you can get them.
Cullen Davis
Sherman Oaks, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:14:20
From: "RYAN WILLIS" <montanaredeye2@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation
Re: Subject: Forced Carbonation
This sounds crazy, but presure the Keg to 40 PSI and shake the keg. I have
found that Soda is much denser than Beer. Must be all the Sugar? It usally
takes one or two times shaking the keg to fully carb the soda. My first
batch took 4 weeks at 35 psi to carb root beer.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:25:57 +0200
From: Hubert Hanghofer <hhanghof@netbeer.co.at>
Subject: Re: H2O2 / German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF)
Jeff Renner (who seems to be the only HBD-veteran trying to
maintain/restore an agreeable, polite climate) wrote in HBD#3664:
> I seem to remember from this discussion several years ago a
> convincing argument (AJ?) that H2O2 is such a powerful oxidizer that
> it would likely instantly oxidize wort components. This is likely
> the source of the undesirable flavor/odor reported by Dave Lodgson
> via Hans Aikema.
Absolutely true. H2O2 does NOT yield the same effects as an equivalent
amount of oxygen! That's because the process of H2O2-decomposition
initially results in free peroxyhydroxyl or hydroxyl radicals:
HOOH-> H. + .OOH or
HOOH-> 2 .OH
Radicals are molecular fragments with unpaired electrons and thus get
a very aggressive, irresistable urge to "copulate". -Imagine a prisoner
that has been on viagra prior to his release...
Oxidizing effects on alcohols (yielding undesirable aldehydes) and
polyphenols are well known and needn't be verified by hobby-experiments.
-Except perhaps if you want to reproduce the harsh/stale flavors of some
exported czech lagers (hot side aerated in lauter-grants, severely
damaged by pasteurization, transport and probably expired).
*****
In another post, Jeff suggests to Jens Briesofsky:
> One final thing. To supplement HBD from a local source, you might
> want to subscribe to UK-HB
> http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/uk-homebrew. They tend to brew
> mostly ales there, but there are a few pilsner and weizenbier fans,
> especially the moderator, Tony Barnsley.
Great resource, but may I humbly point at our German Hausbrauer Forum (HBF),
since Jenscomes from Germany.
http://www.netbeer.co.at/beer/forum/
Posting language is German but we've members from down under in Adelaide to
up north in Ottawa.
I started the list in 1998 with lots of administrative effort on my
local PC. One year ago I got support from Wim Bonis and Armin Teltschik,
who arranged for a transfer to a GNU-Mailman listserver, hosted on a
powerful Linux machine in Kaiserslautern, Germany.
...community works!
Allzeit gut Sud!
Hubert Hanghofer, Salzburg, Austria
www.netbeer.org
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:27:03 -0700
From: David Brandt <jdlcr@flash.netdex.com>
Subject: Boiling rates
Dear HBD'rs,
I'm still working on some basics so excuse my beginner questions. When
boiling the wort does the kettle need to be on a vigorous boil or is a
gentle roll OK? I understand proteins get coagulated at this time, so is
there a difference? Also in The Brewmaster's Bible, Snyder refers to an old
technique for getting heavy but velvety beers is to boil for 3-4 hours to
disolve the proteins back into the wort. Anybody ever do this?
Thanks,
David Brandt
Cloverdale, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:07:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: alastair <alastair@odin.he.net>
Subject: Re: H2O2 Oxygenation
I just got back from the pool store and the pool guy said that
calcium hypoclorite was a pretty good oxidizer. What does the
board think about pouring in a gallon of swimming pool shock
in my next batch to help out my little yeast buddies?
... back into reality mode...
I can't imagine why anyone whould think that adding H2O2 to any
kind of food grade product is a very wise thing to do. I would
imagine that even the smallest concentration would oxidize any
thing it came into contact with... even the yeast cells. I spilt
some H2O2 on my hand once and watched my skin turn white in a
matter of milliseconds... certainly put me off the idea of
drinking it!
Using H2O2 as a yeast nutrient is the equivalent to heating your
house by pouring gasoline on it and putting a match to it.
Alastair
(still using air as oxygen source for both myself and my yeast
buddies)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:47:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Beaverplt <beaverplt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Carbonation & water testing
I too have noticed a difference between 12 and 22 oz
bottles in terms of carbonation. My method is slightly
different from Todd's in that I put the priming
solution in the bucket first and I use malt instead of
sugar. I assumed that larger bottles took longer to
carbonate as they always end up with the same amount
of carbonation later on. My solution has always been
to drink the smaller bottles first.
On water testing, I can't tell you what you need to
test for but I have a swimming pool and have often
taken in a water sample to my local swimming pool
service company to have tested. They seem to test for
darn near everything and do it while you're waiting.
back to lurk mode
Oh, one more thing. to David Harsh. Thank you
=====
Jerry "Beaver" Pelt
That's my story and I'm sticking to it
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:05:36 -0500
From: "2brewers4u" <2brewers4u@home.com>
Subject: Pineapple Beer
Looking to make pineapple beer for Luau. Has anyone done it, and does it
taste ok? Advise
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:11:20 -0500
From: "2brewers4u" <2brewers4u@home.com>
Subject: RE:False Bottom Design
I use a Sabco SS false screen. It is very heavy gauge, but I have bent it
downword with a stuck mash and pump. Otherwise, very good. You can buy
from SABCO for a custom fit, or get the same one from movingbrews.com
cheaper. Both are excellent choices, but not cheap!!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:19:36 -0700
From: "Echols, Brent" <BEchols@hineshort.com>
Subject: Fruit Beer abv
I'm getting ready to rack from my primary to secondary on top of a pile of
fruit.
I've made a similar beer in the past, but took no gravity readings, as I was
unsure
whether I'd get an accurate reading.
My thoughts are, since I have an OG reading (1053), I can take a FG reading
before
I rack to secondary, mix thoroughly with the fruit, wait an hour or two, and
take a
second OG. I will then take a second FG right before kegging.
Then I just add up the difference in points from the first readings and
second readings.
Is this a fairly accurate way to figure what the alcohol in the finished
beer is? I know that
much of the sugar will remain in the fruit, but figure this is the best way
to get a "best guess"...
Any comments?
Thanks much!
brent
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:40:07 -0500
From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1@email.msn.com>
Subject: What is more important temp control or fermentor geometry?
That's easy....temperature control is far more important than fermentor
geometry, especially on a homebrew scale. Once you have proper temperature
control, then you may be able to appreciate any differences caused by
fermentor geometry. Without temperature control, why bother with geometry
at all? Just my own educated guess, I will not quote scripture and verse to
you like some folks like to (and those that do often take the quotes out of
context anyway so as to render the comments useless or misleading....but
that is a story for another day).
Rich Sieben
Island lake, IL
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3665, 06/21/01
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