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HOMEBREW Digest #3614
HOMEBREW Digest #3614 Mon 23 April 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
Re: Jethro Apologizes (Nob Odie)
Re: ("pksmith_morin1")
viscosity ("elvira toews")
Re: ("plotek")
Re: when to rack (Steven)
Late Addition of Top Off Water? (mkboyer)
Muddie's search ("pksmith_morin1")
Spam ("John F. Adsit")
Mash too long? (2brewers4u)
Re: Solid State Relay Questions (Ken Schwartz)
Gravity Correction/Taste of EtOH?Bottled O2 ("A. J.")
Spruce Beer ("John Gubbins")
Converting amber DME to all grain (Hop_Head)
O2 gas ("Stephen R Cavan")
How pure is my oxygen? (Pat Babcock)
Zowie! From mild disappointment, a summer brew is born... (Pat Babcock)
Re: Hops (Steven)
Fluid Dynamics (Home Brewer)
Walking On The Dark Side ("Phil & Jill Yates")
RE: fermentation temperatures too low? ("Derek Shepard @ verizon")
Home Brew Clubs... ("Taliesin2")
re: iodine test for yeast glycogen levels? Any inputs? ("Stephen Alexander")
Solid Sate Relay Answer/Lesson ("Mike Pensinger")
RE: sour beer, souring weiss beer, peroxide. ("Steven Parfitt")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 21 Apr 2001 07:06:52 -0000
From: Nob Odie <noone@nuther-planet.net>
Subject: Re: Jethro Apologizes
> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:11:27 -0500
> From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@isunet.net>
> Subject: Jethro Apologizes
>
> Jethro Apologizes
What insipid bull Rob. Can't you apologize to someone without using your alter-
ego Jethro. If we wanted an apology from a muppet, we would have taken Miss
Piggy to task. Go stand in the corner. Now!
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:29:25 -0500
From: "pksmith_morin1" <pksmith_morin1@msn.com>
Subject: Re:
"Muddie" asks for credible cites on my posts re: haze.
Most of the material was drawn from Malting & Brewing Science, and the
Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists (these articles are
indexed/abstracted and available online - look up the ASBC web site..): If
you are curious about the veracity of any of the conclusions, test them! Do
a forced haze induction at home by storing under hot/cold cycling , and
introducing air early on...
The cites:
C.W. Bamforth, "Beer Haze," J. Am. Soc. Brew. Chem., 57(3), pp 82, et seq;
J.S. Hough, D.E. Briggs, et al, Malting and Brewing Science, Volume 2, pp.
816, 822, 823, 830;
Karl J. Siebert and P.Y. Lynn, "Effect of Protein-Polyphenol Ratio on the
Size of Haze Particles," J. Am. Soc. Brew. Chem., 58(3), pp 24-31;
Product Information, "PVPP stabilization of beer in the recycling process
(STR-Process), " Schenk Filtersysteme DGBH, pg. 3;
Karl J. Siebert and Penelope Lynn, "Comparison of Polyphenol Interactions
with [PVPP] and [HA] Protein, " J. Am. Soc. Brew. Chem., 56 (1), pp 25-26;
Wolfgang Kunze, Technology Malting and Brewing, pp. 196-198, 233-250,
403-405.
Hope this helps. The avoidance of air is crucial for everything, not merely
haze formation. Like diacetyl (in the right beer, and at the right
concentration), I do not find
the formation of haze all that offensive in and of itself -- but it does
point to possible faults lying elsewhere (e.g., improper cellar technique or
contamination in the case of diacetyl, or oxidation in the case of haze).
With time, all beer will haze, unless it is completely devoid of the
precursor components.
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:17:23 -0500
From: "elvira toews" <etoews1@home.com>
Subject: viscosity
Patrick:
"...or simply amongst the molecules in the liquid (viscosity), "
is the correct answer. Assume the first layer of molecules by the tubing
wall has a velocity of zero (not due to any particular adhesion, just their
own viscosity). At low flow rates, you get a fairly simple parabolic
gradient of velocity from the wall to the centre of the tube as the fluid
molecules slide past each other. Resistance to this sliding is viscosity.
When the flow rate increases, the bulk of the fluid in the middle of the
tube becomes turbulent, and the net velocity is fairly constant across the
tube cross-section except by the wall, where a thin boundary layer still
follows the parabolic gradient.
This boundary layer is what you have to calculate for heat transfer in
chillers, for diffusion rates in sparging, etc. The equations aren't that
difficult (if you use SI units) but making sure you found the right one for
your exact situation can take a bit of work.
One of these days I'll get around to calculating the pressure drop in beer
lines. The psi-per-foot numbers that get quoted assume a particular flow
rate as given. The narrower the tubing, the larger the percentage of the
area that is in the boundary layer, where the resistance to flow takes
place.
That's about as thorough as it gets without the equations. There's some
educational websites out there that do a decent job, or at least include
Javascript calculators. A bit of searching on "fluid mechanics" should turn
them up.
Sean
srichens@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:29:58 +1000
From: "plotek" <plotek@optushome.com.au>
Subject: Re:
Dear Posters,
Paul was under the impression
that i was questioning his sources and his
explanation of the clouding phenomenom.
I regret he felt that way. I have apologised
to him for any misinterpretation on his behalf.
I was actually asking for fundamental
references that he may be familiar with.
I recieved direction to resources which I have
encountered before.
Im butting my head against this wall
of technology and application descriptions.
Im not interested in those. You guys can continue
to quote journals and texts which provide
description but not hard chemistry or physics.
I am interested in the fundamental science
of of what goes on in the solutions of the
beer at mashing fermentation and standing
I am intested in structure, chemical yields
theromdynamics.
Im not really interested in short two paragraph
descriptions that encompass a whole range
of chemistries.
For those scientists in the field I ask where
is this stuff and where do I start? I would
dearly like to read the resources for the
biochemists and chemists (organic and
inorganic) in institutions.
Now ive tried to put that as politely as
possible. I have no intention of questioning
your standings to those who are offended
by anything i have stated. If you feel slighted
in any way please accept my apology ahead
of time.
Yo!
Muddie
Not "Muddie"
Muddie is just as effective as John Smith,
Mr Smith Fr J. Smith or Dr Smith- If you
must ask I was Christened XXX XX XX XXXX
When I stopped believing in anything, adopting
a "christian name" seemed pointless. Titles are
a form of protection and are best suited to
office doors- The full name in all its glory is -
MuDgUts - It suits a skeptic!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:01:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven <stevensl@mindspring.net>
Subject: Re: when to rack
I feel like putting my 2cents worth in here and i would encourage anyone
to reply if i'm totally wrong. I'm pretty new to homebrewing, just 5
batches so far. I worried about when to rack, when to wait and the advice
from local homebrewers was its a hobby, rack when you have the time.
So, since I want to have a life I dedicate part of a day on the weekends
to brewing. This dictates when I do the boil, when i rack to secondary,
when I bottle. So far i've had no problems that I can tell, and in the end
thats whats important to me, for now.
Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl@mindspring.net ::: 403forbidden.net
"You want the government to handle your medical care? You want the
government to take care of your retirement? Go stand in line at a post
office." -- Neil Boortz
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:01:35 -0500
From: mkboyer@ev1.net
Subject: Late Addition of Top Off Water?
We made an Irish Red a few weeks ago, and perhaps (OK, definitely)
enjoyed a bit too much of a previous batch of cider as we made it. We
totally forgot to add top off water to the fermentor. I realized this
after racking to secondary. Looks like it's about a gallon low. OG and
FG are both higher, but linearally so. We're now ready to keg the beer,
but I'm wondering if I should add top off water before we do it. Of
course I'd boil/cool it first, but is it a good idea to top off at this
point?
Kevin Boyer
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:47:22 -0500
From: "pksmith_morin1" <pksmith_morin1@msn.com>
Subject: Muddie's search
If I have misinterpreted Muddie's request (and I apparently have), I lay off
and invite the "hard" scientists in the community to step forward. I have
to admit, I am still a bit befuddled as to what Muddie is actually looking
for...perhaps others are not and can provide the references he is looking
for.
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:29:09 -0600
From: "John F. Adsit" <jadsit@jeffco.k12.co.us>
Subject: Spam
I, too, got the spam, but I disagree about a solution.
Most tech people I know advise against writing back
to the spammer AT ALL. Even if they give a REMOVE
address, in many (perhaps most) cases, all you have
accomplished is provide a confirmed email address
to the spammer for further use.
Or are people under the impression that they have ethics?
John
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:48:28 -0500
From: 2brewers4u@home.com
Subject: Mash too long?
Help..... The other night, during a RIMS brew, my mash got stuck, then the
phone rings, and some lady stopped by to sell a security system. Anyway, my
attention was diverted. The mash set for 2:47 at 122 degrees. I finished up
normally (154 degrees for 60 minutes, step to 174 degrees, then sparged as
normal. Will the long stay at 122 degrees for 2 hours and 47 minutes hurt?
2brewers4u
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:25:16 -0600
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Solid State Relay Questions
Mike asked about a problem with a 240V SSR operating at 245.
The 240VAC rating is probably very conservative so I doubt the extra 5V
is causing the problem (not the root cause anyway). I'd be more likely
to blame a faulty SSR input drive (your controller is turning the SSR
input LED "on" all the time). If you're absolutely sure the input is
not being activated (try completely disconnecting it), you have a faulty
SSR.
- --
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer
E-mail: kenbob@elp.rr.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 16:41:39 +0000
From: "A. J." <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Gravity Correction/Taste of EtOH?Bottled O2
Most of the specific gravity vs temperature corrections seem to be based
on the specific gravity variations of water with temperature which is
justified on the basis that wort is a weak solution. Wort of modest
(12P) gravity changes density with temperature slightly differently than
water and, as this is caused by the presence of dissolved sugar, we must
assume the variation depends upon how much. Practically, the variation
is doubtless less than most could measure using the hydrometers that
most homebrewers use so the water only correction is good enough.
Alcohols tend to taste sweet and ethanol is, in my opionion, no
different. The slightly sweet flavor is secondary to the physical
sensation of warmth that it contributes as it goes down.
The days of bottled medical oxygen are coming to an end. People who need
medical oxygen these days are likely to rent a molecular sieve device
which "strains" the oxygen out of the air delivering something like 96 -
98% pure O2. Another gadget for us all to lust after.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:35:54 -0600
From: "John Gubbins" <n0vse@idcomm.com>
Subject: Spruce Beer
Howdy Folks,
I have been making spruce beers for several years now. Here are a few
tricks I've learned over the years. I pick my spruce on the West Slope
of the Colorado Rockies in early June. You want sprigs that are 2 or 3
inches long and the stem supple and not woody. I use 4 or 5 of these
for a 5 gallon batch.
I have boiled them in the wort. This is not good as it extracts a
bitter flavor that is unpleasant. The best way to do it is in a
separate pot, boil the sprigs in a pint of water. Filter the spruce out
of the tea and add the tea in the last 5 minutes of the wort boil. The
aroma is wonderful.
Spruce beer seems to be at its best when it is fresh. After several
months, it seems to get bitter. It is very good when it is good. Do
not use too much spruce!
John Gubbins
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 14:19:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hop_Head@webtv.net
Subject: Converting amber DME to all grain
I am converting some of my partial mash recipes to all grain. In one of
them I used amber DME. What type of grain and in what quantity would I
use per pound of DME?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 14:26:07 -0600
From: "Stephen R Cavan" <scavan@sprint.ca>
Subject: O2 gas
Perhaps someone with a closer connection to the gas industry will answer the
questions which have appeared lately about the
purity of O2 gas supplies, i.e., is welding grade as good as medical
grade? I bounced this question off a friend who actually works at a liquid
gas company, a friend who has access to, and knowledge of, both grades of
gas. He is also a brewer who uses gas for Aeration. He claimed the welding
grade was not at all safe to use for food production. In fact he became very
concerned that I would even think of using this low grade gas in beer. He
said that the welding grade can be contaminated with nasty stuff such as
acetylene, and even at a maximum contamination of 2%, you do not want this
in your beer.
Cheers, Steve
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:36:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock@hbd.org>
Subject: How pure is my oxygen?
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Steve writes of a friend who works in a liquid gas company:
> He said that the welding grade can be contaminated with nasty stuff
> such as acetylene
Wouldn't that make the cylinder a bomb? I mean, if you can't have
simple oil in the cylinder, acetylene is far more combustible. As I
understand it, the "contaminants" are more along the lines of noble
(inert) gasses - but what do I know?
Any one out there with the proper credentials care to speak up?
(As and aside, just because someone works in an industry doesn't make them
an expert. For instance, you could fill VOLUMES with what I don't know
about automobiles, and I'm an engineer for an automaker...)
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:46:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock@hbd.org>
Subject: Zowie! From mild disappointment, a summer brew is born...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager....
I have to admit it, folks. I let my guard down. I had a VERY OLD pale ale
which had developed a brett. infection. I bottled this off,
"sanitized" the keg, and put my latest koelsch in it.
Oddly, the koelsch never cleared! Tasted OK, but never would clear. Now, I
detect a brett. infection in that, too (RB: I've finally put a finger on
your "house flavor". Call me...)
Today, sipping on a pint, a thought occurred - what if I doctored
it? Through doctoring, I turned a horrid hefeweizen into a very
respectable plambic (better living through chemistry...). What could I do
to make this beast "nicer"?
After a brief thrashing about, I settled on a few cracked coriander seeds
and some zest from a valencia orange and WoW! I hAvE fOuNd My SuMmEr
BrEw!!!I would almost intentionally infect a beer for this effect. wOw!
(Mike O: you GOTTA stop by and try this. Much like your Tang Wit...)
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:01:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven <stevensl@mindspring.net>
Subject: Re: Hops
Thanks to all those who replied to my hops post. Found some great
resources.
Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl@mindspring.net ::: 403forbidden.net
"You want the government to handle your medical care? You want the
government to take care of your retirement? Go stand in line at a post
office." -- Neil Boortz
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:30:21 -0400
From: Home Brewer <howe@execulink.com>
Subject: Fluid Dynamics
Patrick:
You Wrote:
howdy folks,
if anyone cares to write it down, i would appreciate a 'real' (rather
than my lame one) explanation for the resistance of any fluid to
movement through a tube. if it isn't interactions with the tubing or
simply amongst the molecules in the liquid (viscosity), then what
produces the resistance to flow?
- -------------
I think what you are looking for will be found by researching a couple of
physicists:
Jean Louis Poiseuille explains how the steady flow of a fluid is influenced
by it's viscosity and the pressure differences found in a tube, and Daniel
Bernoulli explains how the velocity of a fluid changes with the
width/diameter of the channel it is flowing through.
Simply put, the rate of flow of a fluid through a tube is directly related
to the radius of the tube (to the fourth power) and the pressure change
along the length of the tube, and inversely related to viscosity and the
tube's length.
Mathematically: Q = (P2 - P1)(pi)(r^4)/8*l*n
Where:
Q = Flow
P = Pressure
r = radius of tube
l = length of tube
n = viscosity
So what happens is, as the radius of a tube becomes larger the radius of
the tube plays a continuing larger role. As the radius of a tube decreases,
relative pressures become the dominant factor.
Obviously, the science behind all this runs into pages, but hopefully this
will give you an idea of the factors involved and the relationship between
them.
Cheers,
Tim Howe (B.Sc, Physics)
London, Ont
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 19:41:22 +1000
From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates@acenet.com.au>
Subject: Walking On The Dark Side
Jim Bermingham comments on the colour of my nose :
>Has Phil gone over to the "Dark Side"? At least there >seems to be
something
>dark on his nose.
Now Jim this is very unfair. I can be nice to Steve from time to time. I've
even promised to send him over a bottle of my brew. As for going over to the
dark side, well I have been wandering back and forth for years. Same goes
with my cross dressing, I just can't make up my mind what side I am on.
Now before I lose my brownie points (or is that nose?) with Steve, I had
better get on with beer matters. Yesterday I kegged my Yates/Pivo pilsner
Mark2. I tried a sample and was so overcome with delirious ecstasy I fell
backwards on the drive and lay there for several hours in the rain (maybe it
was a bigger sample than I had intended).
Why is it so delightful? Well for one thing the saaz flowers came from New
Zealand instead of Czechoslovakia. Now of course there is nothing wrong with
Czech hops, we all know that. But the Czech pellets Doc Pivo and I used on
Mark 1, I suspect were not as fresh as they should have been.
With this version I added one kilo of Bairds vienna malt. Thanks to Wes
Smith here in Australia we are now getting access to some really great
malts.
I split the ferment between Ayinger and Budvar yeasts, the difference
between the two I am yet to report on.
Wes Smith also is making available to us hop flower plugs from Europe. I am
yet to put these into action.
But I have to say this is a serious beer. The freshness and hop character
jump out and smack you fair in the face (maybe this explains my "knocked out
state" lying on the drive.
I am convinced that top ingredients make all the difference (assuming you
have a handle on the process). I am convinced that simply nothing compares
to the brilliant beer one produces at home.
I am convinced the world can be a beautiful place. To that end I leaned over
the back fence and shook hands with my Croatian neighbour - even asked him
over for a homebrew (we have been in deep dispute for over a year). The fact
that he told me to go and get f***ed is irrelevant. It was a beautiful
moment.
This walking on the dark side is indeed a new experience. I've been nice to
Steve, I've been nice to my neighbour. If I drink enough of this pilsner
Mark 2, I might even see my way to being nice to Graham Sanders!!
Cheers
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 06:45:37 -0400
From: "Derek Shepard @ verizon" <derek.shepard@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: fermentation temperatures too low?
I use a "large" plastic tub from Walmart and a fish tank heater. I simply
set the carboy in the tub filled with water. My basement gets very chilly in
winter and I have no problem maintaining Ale temperatures dead on. I don't
remember the wattage, but it is relatively low and doesn't come on much.
Also, a tip I learned from someone who has fish, I use a small air pump and
stone to keep the water moving so there is no stratification of the warm
water on top and cool on the bottom. This also keeps the water clear
(doesn't get stagnant). Total investment less than $20. I haven't noticed
any change in my electric bill and have been doing this for the last 3 years
(only in winter).
Derek Shepard
Washington, New Jersey
>also, how can i keep the temp up durin the winter w/o the use of heaters
>which draw a lot of electricity?
>
>- sincerely,
>- michael capitain
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:02:30 -0400
From: "Taliesin2" <shane.saylor@verizon.net>
Subject: Home Brew Clubs...
What is everybody's opinion of brew clubs? And what can one expect from
the club? Also, do the clubs offer lessons in Homebrewing? And if they do,
do you have to be a member to take them? Thanks...
- --
"Those who want to hear the voice of pagan gods in wind or thunder, who
want to see the fairies dance in the moonlight, who can believe that
faith can move mountains, can follow the thread on the pages of this
book. It is a fragile thread; it cannot bear the weight of facts and
dates"
-Kate Seredy, "The White Stag"
ICQ: 9815080 Operator Taliesin_2 of #SacredNemeton on IRC PaganPaths
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:02:46 -0400
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: iodine test for yeast glycogen levels? Any inputs?
Well you've seen some inputs but one confused poster writes:
>I came up with this test in the late 1980s when I was writing the first
edition
>of [...]
Yeah - and Al Gore invented the internet. The earliest reference to using
iodine as a simple visual test for glycogen that I am aware of appears in
"Brewers' Guardian", page 43, February 1972, by C.Rainbow - a well known
brewing yeast researcher. This method is referenced in a Cambridge prize
lecture by David E.Quain published in JIB v95, pp315-323, Sept-Oct 1988 - a
journal and author (tho' not the specific article) which the poster
references in his books. This leaves a very poor impression of the poster
in my mind and I hope he'll explain exactly what he meant by "I came up with
this test".
Iodine will stain glycogen - but that's not the same as viability as has
been repeatedly *implied*. You can test for glycogen but understand that
there is very good evidence that it's level does NOT correlate directly with
viability. Glycogen levels in viable yeast will vary from about 8% to 60%
of dry yeast mass (JIB, v87, pp108-111, 1981- an article by Quain et al
which the poster references). Glycogen/stain level probably shows
something, related to viability when comparing yeasts in similar growth
phases but it must be imperfect because of the rapid fluctuations in level.
Glycogen is also apparently required to initiate sterol/UFA synthesis - so
low levels in pitched yeast portent a poor fermentation. Glycogen level is
a good thing to measure/understand but it's not viability.
The long used test for brewing ability is methylene blue , which has
limitations. Methylene violet stain has recently been suggested as an
improvement. The advantages of this over methylene blue are discussed in
J.ASBC 57(1):18-23, 1999 by Smart et al. which is available at the ASBC
website. This paper notes some of the limitations of Methylene blue, and
also demonstrates methods of testing the relationship of the stain level
with other measures of viability. You can get the base chemical needed,
methylene violet or blue, to make up a lifetime supply (several liters)
from a chem vendor for about $7. You can also get 120ml bottles of prepared
methylene blue stain for <$10 so the price of a proper viability stain is
negligible. For these stains *current* cell metabolism, not just a static
assay of carbs effects the color difference.
I've nothing against expedience and convenience of a bottle of iodine, but
understand what it tests then use it accordingly. It may be a great choice
to 'measure' glycogen. But for viability a microscope and $10 worth of
stain are needed.
>However, before the "theologians" on this forum mount their pulpits
And here I thought that "theologians" were people who placed blind faith
over reason. For example folks who state glycogen assays are equivalent to
viability just because they said so. We could go into misleading published
statements for the basis of iodine/carbohydrate coloration - but ... enough.
You *are* the weakest link Doctor - goodbye,
-S
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:25:04 -0400
From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Solid Sate Relay Answer/Lesson
Well my HLT is sitting at a very even 165 degrees right now. Thank you very
much to all the people that tried to help. The answer made me want to kick
myself in the butt!
Seems that when you read voltage on a SSR that does not have a load it will
look like it is conducting. As soon as you put a load on it it operates
perfectly. End of lesson.
Now all I have to do is figure out why my pump quit working and get another
PID controller and i will be in business!
Mike Pensinger
beermkr@bellatlantic.net
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:37:07 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: sour beer, souring weiss beer, peroxide.
Well I tried one of the test strips, but mine only goes to 4.5 so I need to
get some test strips that go lower. Do I need to get rid of carbonation to
eliminate it's acid from throwing off the readings?
I did try one of the bottles of the same beer, and they aren't sour.
As far as a source for Lacto-Bacilis.... Could one just use a teaspoon of
yogurt? Add it to a batch of malt and water that had been boiled to build up
a batch of yeast? Let this ferment for a couple of days and use it?
Steven
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #3614, 04/23/01
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