Copy Link
Add to Bookmark
Report
HOMEBREW Digest #3612
HOMEBREW Digest #3612 Fri 20 April 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
***************************************************************
THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
http://www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739
Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********
Contents:
Jethro Apologizes ("Rob Moline")
Jethro on Chillers ("Rob Moline")
Sediment in beer ("Cade Morgan")
bottle caps (BrwyFoam)
Jon's Sour beer ("Fred L. Johnson")
Sour beer / RE: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk! ("Steven Parfitt")
Caps (John Varady)
Re: Spruce Beer ("Mike O'Brien")
BJCP at GABF (JGORMAN)
7th Annual Boneyard Brew-Off (Joel Plutchak)
Re: cheese digest ("Houseman, David L")
Phil's trip to the Dark Side (" Jim Bermingham")
Re: Beerlink, Spam Merchants ("Doug Hurst")
Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer ("ZANON, JON")
UPS beer shipping woes ("Dean Fikar")
Rachel's Spam (www.beerlink.co.uk) ("Eric R. Theiner")
various and sundry (Frank Tutzauer)
sour ("Joseph Marsh")
Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer ("ZANON, JON")
Spirit of Free Beer IX (Anderson Andy W NSSC)
Aeration - What kind of Oxygen ? ("Alexandre Carminati")
RE: False bottom ("Murray, Eric")
re: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk! ("Murray, Eric")
Serving line fluid dynamics (steven thomas)
beer line, hops comparison, burners, spruce, horrible British web sites ("elvira toews")
Fermentation lengths? ("Gregg Stearns")
re: False bottom and efficiency (Clifton Moore)
Re: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk! (Steve Thompson)
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
*
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org
If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!
To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
"subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address
for the automation - that's your job.
The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.
More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org.
JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:11:27 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@isunet.net>
Subject: Jethro Apologizes
Jethro Apologizes
Having spoken with Ken Johnson on the subject, and now accepting his word
that he held no contempt for Gary Glass, I apologize for my scorched earth
approach to his earlier comments. During our conversation, we expressed
varying views, yet finally "agreed to disagree," which he concurred "was the
way gentlemen handle such matters." Those matters mostly concerned the AHA,
which has been fully deserving of such in the past.
While my comments were made in response to what I perceived to be a
personal attack, which I felt unfounded...it now appears that I was
wrong.... and humbly apologize.
This is not to say that I won't, in the future, offer my opinions, and any
other comments I feel appropriate at the time...should anyone 'piss on' my
mates...especially if they are undeserving of such.
Remembering the Rules as taught by Rod Thomson, "I remember who my mates
are....And I know the bloody difference." And I will back my mates, or
anybody else, when they are not deserving of criticism...with all guns
a-blazing.
Having now been assured that Ken's words were not intended to harm Gary, I
again apologize.
Sir, I hope that when we next occupy the same pub, you will allow me to buy
the first pint....or two!
Jethro
jethrogump@home.com
"Aussie Rules-
Rule Number 1- Remember Who Your Mates Are.
Rule Number 2- Remember Who Your Mates Aren't.
Rule Number 3- Know the Bloody Difference!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:56:52 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@isunet.net>
Subject: Jethro on Chillers
Jethro on Chillers
Having observed breweries...I agree that the single most infection
prone portion of any brewery is the chiller. I could show you photo's, and
relate horror stories that would not just amaze...but render you
incredulous.
This is not to say that slackness further along the line won't cause
prob's as well. It will.
In my pro-brewing experience, I have encountered chillers that,
although allegedly cleaned with care and efficiency, nonetheless displayed
caramelized wort, captured trub, hop residue, fungus, and even fractured
gaskets within.
Your mileage will vary....depending upon the maintenance you provide.
Just as it is in the pro-brewing world...if you take care of your
equipment, it will take care of you. Counterflow chillers aren't to be
feared...they are to be maintained.
Jethro Gump
jethrogump@home.com
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:04:47 +0200
From: "Cade Morgan" <Cade.Morgan@eskom.co.za>
Subject: Sediment in beer
Hi fellow brewers.
I have an ale brewing at the moment. I want
to know if it is ruined. There is some yeast
clumps floating on top. They don't seem to be
clearing out.
Is my beer ruined? Will it still clear out? At the
moment, the beer is on day 7 of fermentation.
Cade A Morgan
cade.morgan@eskom.co.za
+27 (0)17-7993244
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 06:50:05 EDT
From: BrwyFoam@aol.com
Subject: bottle caps
Dave Houseman writes:
>I was very interested in your move to use bottling caps without any
>sanitation treatment at all. I take it from this continued practice that
>you haven't had any bottle infections attributable to these caps.
For many years I rigorously sanitized bottle caps. However, during a visit to
AB/Houston many moons ago the subject came up and the lead brewer told me
that this was a waste of time. I subsequently found out that neither Miller
nor Coors sanitizes their bottle caps. I immeditely plated our samples from
caps I had on hand and got nil counts. Everytime I get new caps I repeat this
(now using LMDA), and have yet in the last ten and so years to detect beer
spoiling bacteria or yeast. I do however keep the caps carefully stored in
santitary packages.
> Do yo>only bottle for competitions from a keg or do you regularly bottle
beer?
About half of each batch is kegged and used for "local consumption", and the
remainder is CP bottled. The latter is used for testing and competions (I
enter a large number each year, including some that gets sent to Buzz-Off
each year.).
>Any beers (barleywines, for example) bottled for longer term storage?
As an "oxidation freek" I keep samples of each batch a minimum of 12 mos. for
testing and evaluation. If you are ever in my neighborhood be sure to stop
by. We have a room (which once served as a dark room) that is full beer
undergoing either thermal or age stressing.
I hesitated to post this for the last thing I want to do is to encourage
sloppy brewing practices. The brewer at AB put it this way. "There are areas
of brewing where great care is needed, and others that are less critical.
Sucessful brewers learn which is which, and devote the bulk of their time to
the former."
Cheers,
George Fix
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:09:21 -0400
From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Jon's Sour beer
Jon has a sour brown ale that tasted OK at the time of bottling. He is
confident that he sanitized as best one can with a "no-rinse sanitizer",
although he doesn't mention what kind of "sanitizer" he used. (I personally
swear by dilute iodophor on everything without rinsing and use nothing
else.) Jon is also concerned that his sanitizer (or perhaps chlorine in the
tap water) could have caused the sour taste since he has been so careful to
use the sanitizer on everything possible and has not rinsed after
sanitization.
If this brown ale is truly sour, it is almost certainly infected (although
I've heard novices describe many other off flavors in beers as "sour").
Contamination in the fermentor will not necessarily be noticeable at the
time of bottling, especially if the beer was bottled fairly quickly.
I don't believe no-rinse sanitizers would cause his beer to taste sour.
Because Jon has apparently been VERY cautious to be as sanitary as possible
by sanitizing everything he can, I would first suspect the wort chiller
(immersion-type?), since it, too, was only sanitized by sitting in a bucket
with the sanitizer, although all steps between the point of chilling the
wort and bottling should be examined (open kettle after chilling, possible
hand contact with tubing, valves, etc). As Jon mentioned in his post,
boiling the immersion chiller would be best and can do no harm to the beer
as long as the chiller is reasonably clean when it goes in the boiling
kettle. Immersion-type wort chillers are difficult to keep shiny clean, and
most of us depend on a good boil to kill anything we've not cleaned off
since the last brew.
- --
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina
USA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:27:25 -0400
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Sour beer / RE: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk!
Well, after setting in the frig for a month and a half after I had bottled
most of the beer in it, my keg of Wheat Beer has gone sour. I believe I
only have a couple of glasses left in it, as I bottled most of it. The
bottled beer seems ok, in fact it took third place in the competition at my
local brew-club on the 9th.
Normally I wouldn't fret over a couple of glasses of beer, but,.... I
actually like it. As I understand it, this may be a Lacto-bacilis effect (I
won't call it contamination since I like it). And, it may be a
characteristic of some wheat-beer (Berliner-Weissen?).
Sooo, (1) how do I test for Lacto-bacillis, (2) if it is indeed L-B,how do I
maintain it, or culture it? (3)Can I just bottle it and use it later to add
to another batch? (4) Can I use it to innoculate a batch of belgian beer in
the later stages of aging?
tks
Dave Says:
>I'd like to nominate www-dot-beerlink-dot-co-dot-uk as the most
>annoying beer website. This morning I received three (3) separate
>e-mails informing me that there was a new beer link site and that I had
>"requested" the information. All messages were from "Rachel".
.......
I'll second it. Just got the message forwarded from "Rachel" by "Rachel". I
suspect that sending them a message will do no good. The message is probably
autogenerated Spam. I prefer to simply block the sender.
Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery, under construction.
Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=241124&a=1791925
"Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer
to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von
Bismarck
------------------------------
Date: 19 Apr 2001 09:13:46 EDT
From: John Varady <rust1d@usa.net>
Subject: Caps
WRT not sanitizing your bottle caps, I haven't done so in 4 years and
probably 3000+ bottles without getting burned for it.
Bottling sucks enough as it is, you don't need to make it even more
painful.
John
"So often these days, eating Indian food passes for spirituality.
I don't meditate, I don't pray, but I eat 2 Samosas every day."
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 06:27:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Mike O'Brien" <picobrew@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Spruce Beer
While doing a colonial brewing demonstration with a
wooden lauter tun I stumbled on 'how to do a spruce
beer'. With the wooden lauter tun the false bottom
that I had been useing was straw - this worked well. I
had read about the early settlers - or maybe it was
Scandinavian brewers - that also using evergreen
boughs as their 'screen'.
So the first batch I added a few blue spruce tips to
the lauter tun with the straw. It still filtered great
and added a faint evergreen flavor and aroma.
The second batch I brewed 10 gallons of a 1.056 amber
ale I used a 'paper grocery bag full' (5 or 6#) of
Blue Spruce tip (no straw) and it was wonderful!
I have since used white spruce - not as nice - and
White Pine - no flavor or aroma addition at all! When
I brewed a 'big Scotch ale' (1.090) - with this method
- the spruce character was still present but much
subdued.
Mike O'Brien
pico-Brewing Systems, Inc.
www.pico-brewing.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:25:00 -0400
From: JGORMAN@steelcase.com
Subject: BJCP at GABF
Does anyone know if there is going to be a BJCP Exam and the GABF in Denver
this August?
Jason Gorman
River Dog Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:37:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak@ncsa.uiuc.edu>
Subject: 7th Annual Boneyard Brew-Off
Brewers, start your kettles! Judges, whet your palates!
The Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots (B.U.Z.Z.) announce
the 7th Annual Boneyard Brew-Off, to be held in Champaign-Urbana
Illinois on June 2nd. As usual we feature judging of beer and
mead (sorry, no ciders this year) in all AHA/BJCP categories, as
well as the No On Gets Out Alive High Gravity special category
where the entries-- any beer or mead with a starting gravity of
1.070 or above-- are judged on a purely hedonic basis.
Judges, stewards, and hangers-on will also be treated to the
usual Friday night Judge Social and Saturday evening BBQ dinner.
See <http://www.uiuc.edu/ro/BUZZ/> or contact me for details.
Entry forms will be mailed to regional judges and clubs next week.
- --
Joel Plutchak
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:37:57 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman@unisys.com>
Subject: Re: cheese digest
Yes, Cheese Digest, a well kept secret. For those of you who have pushed
every envelop in brewing, wine making, cider making and mead making, cheese
making is the next mountain to climb. Or do as I did and give your SO
something to do with cultures and molds. From a couple sources I gathered
together a kit of equipment and cultures and book as a Christmas present to
my wife. She's watched me brew for years and enjoys my beer but hasn't
participated in the labor (a little red hen comes to mind...). She really
got into cheese making and made some wonderful cheeses (blue, gorgonzola,
stilton, brie, camembert, cheddar, edam, mozzarella, ricotta, parmesan,
etc.). The stilton was may absolute favorite. Just a wonderful, creamy,
rich cheese. I bought some commercial stilton at $12.95/lb and compared the
two and would take ours any day.
For those that are interested, cheese making is not difficult, but the steps
are somewhat tedious. It's a bit more rigorous to a recipe to yield the
desired result but I suspect you can create your own types of cheese just as
a homebrewer can create their own "style." The most expensive piece of
equipment is a cheese press if you want to make cheeses requiring a press.
You can make your own and our own Jack S. has plans for one on his web site.
For homebrew shop owners, it's additional supplies that can be stocked and
sold which have an affinity to your other customers.
Dave Houseman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:51:15 -0500
From: " Jim Bermingham" <bermingham@antennaproducts.com>
Subject: Phil's trip to the Dark Side
Has Phil gone over to the "Dark Side"? At least there seems to be something
dark on his nose. Phil, FYI a lab coat has been ordered and will be on its
way to you in the near future. Should the name tag read Scientist Phil, or
Scientist Helen?
For David Harsh: Yes "Rachel" came a calling.
Regards,
Jim Bermingham
Millsap, TX
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:00:29 -0500
From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH@theshowdept.com>
Subject: Re: Beerlink, Spam Merchants
David Harsh wrote:
"I'd like to nominate www-dot-beerlink-dot-co-dot-uk as the most
annoying beer website. This morning I received three (3) separate
e-mails informing me that there was a new beer link site and that I had
"requested" the information. All messages were from "Rachel". Normally
I just delete spam, but when I can slam them in their home territory, I
take the opportunity."
I too, received two emails from that f*&%#@$g spam merchant. I tried to
email back to the sender but, as usual, it was a bogus email address.
Obviously they went through the HBD and took email addresses off of the
headers of posts. This type of thing really pisses me off and I am
posting to the HBD in hopes that "Rachel" or any other spam merchants,
who actually read the posts before stealing email addresses, will see
this. I, and I hope we, will not visit links sent by way of unsolicited
email, so KNOCK IT OFF!
I'm sorry to waste HBD bandwidth on this topic but maybe it will do some
good (though I doubt it, as they are certainly illiterate).
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:45:32 -0500
From: "ZANON, JON" <JEZANON@SEATSINC.COM>
Subject: Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer
- -----Original Message-----
From: ZANON, JON
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:41 AM
To: 'dlake@amuni.com'
Subject: Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer
Sorry to bother you again but you did respond and I have a hankering to get
this right.....You know...maybe this could better be described as a dry
metalic taste. Very pronounced. It isn't really sour I suppose, not like
vinegar, more metalic, or mineral, but sort of unidentifiable. Oxides from
the chiller? Is there a particular cleaner I should use to clean the
outside of the copper. I just detergent washed it rinsed it and put it in
the One Step. Wait..OK...I found some info on OneStep on the internet. It
says it is an oxygenating sanitizer. It works by combining with water and
producing hydrogen peroxide... Have you ever gargled with Hyd Peroxide?
My grandmother had me do it once for a sore throat and come to think of it
this beer has that sort of flavor, YUM YUM. Could the oxygenating/hydrogen
peroxide cause this problem perhaps? The article Says the stuff breaks down
to organic salts similar to what is in water anyway after a few weeks. That
is, it can't be kept in solution and effective for more time than this as it
deteriorates. Maybe the beer will come back?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald D. Lake [mailto:dlake@gdi.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:37 AM
To: JEZANON@SEATSINC.COM
Subject: sour
Jonathan,
I'm not sure where to start. If your finished beer tasted fine at
bottling, then it probably wasn't any infection that occured before
fermentation.
Chlorine is often a problem, but it doesn't cause sourness. It creates
a compound called chlorophenols which taste like bandaids or burnt
electrical. This flavor can also be caused by wild yeasts. But wild
yeast rarely spoils finished beer.
I've learned the hard way that chlorine is a powerful component and can
ruin beer. I now charcoal filter all of my tap water before I add it to
my mash or wort.
Sour or acidic can be described as tart vinegar-like sensation on sides
of the tounge. It can be caused by lactobacillus, pediococcus, from
poor sanitation, excessive acid mash rest (rare) or high fermentation
temperatures. So basically, the problems from sourness do not come at
bottling.
Could the fault be something other than "sour"? Maybe you had one
infected bottle? Try another or ask someone more experienced with beer
faults to taste it.
Personally, I find a lot of faults with my own beer that others do not,
including BJCP National judges. It's in my head.
Sorry I wasnt more help.
Don
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:54:10 -0700
From: "Dean Fikar" <dfikar@flash.net>
Subject: UPS beer shipping woes
After using UPS to ship beer at least a dozen times over the last couple of
years I recently ran into my
first real problem. I know that shipping beer for evaluation purposes (i.e.
competition) is legal using
private carriers such as UPS and Federal Express. I recently took a couple
of boxes of beer down to the
local UPS substation to ship to California for the MCAB. As is my usual
custom, I labelled the contents
"yeast samples" and dropped them off. A couple of hours later I got a phone
call from the supervisor who
questioned the contents, apparently after having opened the boxes. She
informed me that they do not ship
alcoholic beverages and gave me a hard time for labeling the boxes as yeast
samples. I told her that I've
done this many times before, often with the supervisors knowing the
contents. Well, a rather heated
discussion ensued which resulted in me driving down to the station to pick
up the boxes while she took her
time checking with the higher-ups.
By the time I got there, she had gone ahead and put the boxes on the
shipping ramp, purportedly to be
shipped to California as I had requested. She didn't bother to tell me that
she was going to do this
before I rushed down there, thus wasting a trip. Another testy exchange
ensued at the end of which she said
she'd ship the boxes but "I'm not gonna ship no mo". Needless to say, my
Czech blood had reached a
rolling boil after trying in vain to reason with this cretin. At this
point, it wouldn't surprise me if a
couple of empty boxes arrive at the MCAB while my precious beer gets
"judged" against a bottle of Colt 45
at the back of the Fort Worth UPS substation by a bunch of semiliterate UPS
workers.
My question is how do I avoid this in the future? I checed the UPS web site
for their alcohol shipping
policy and I didn't see anything about noncommercial shipping of alcoholic
beverages. I was wondering if
anyone knew of a written policy regarding such shipments so that I could
show the supervisor next time and
hopefully avoid these problems. Also, I'm wondering if Federal Express
might be a better alternative or
if they have the same vague discretionary policies that UPS has? I'd like
to have something in writing
that I could show either of these carriers when problems arise.
Dean Fikar
Fort Worth, TX
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:20:49 -0400
From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic@skantech.com>
Subject: Rachel's Spam (www.beerlink.co.uk)
Yep, I've received a couple.
I also received a couple from the same site a few months or a year ago. I
(and I suspect most people) recognized it as spam trying to pretend to be a
mis-directed email or a reply to something I had forgotten.
I replied, asking if she really thought she could build credibility in this
manner and got a response! Rachel (apparently she's a real person)
answered that building credibility is exactly what she was trying to do--
thus the emails! Kind of sad, if you think about it.
Rick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:59:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank@acsu.buffalo.edu>
Subject: various and sundry
Some random comments on yesterday's Digest:
First, Paul has an idea about my hazy beer:
>If you have ruled out the other sources of your haze, I would look to the
>polyphenol contribution of your hops (likely) or your malt.
>
>The permanent haze you describe may be due to the complexation of the
>polyphenols with haze-active, proline rich protein residues in your beer,
>very common. The more complexation, the more light scattering haze.
A guy in my club suggested using a protein rest because of the pilsner
malt. If your explanation is correct, would a protein rest help?
- -------------------------------------------------------
And then David takes it to the spammers in their own territory:
> I'd like to nominate www-dot-beerlink-dot-co-dot-uk as the most
>annoying beer website. This morning I received three (3) separate
>e-mails informing me that there was a new beer link site and that I had
>"requested" the information. All messages were from "Rachel". Normally
>I just delete spam, but when I can slam them in their home territory, I
>take the opportunity.
>
>Anybody else get these?
Yes, Rachel visited me too.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Aaron's moving:
> Soon, I will be switching residences and wherever I end up living
>will undoubtedly have less to offer in terms of brewing space than where I
>am presently
Dude, don't move! Tell your wife, your employer, your crack-head
neighbors, or whoever is making you move, that your brewing space is more
important!
- --------------------------------------------------------
Then Jeremy comments on Jack and cheese:
>The [cheese] digest comes out almost every day but traffic probably
>averages <2 posts/day. Our own Jack Schmidling encouraged the formation
>of the list and is the lead poster.
I know a lot of people bristle at Jack's style, but he's definitely a
"jack" of all trades. Few brewers know that Jack is also an accomplished
astrophotographer with photos appearing in Sky & Telescope, for example.
- --------------------------------------------------------
And finally, the announcement I've been waiting for:
>From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
>Subject: Fermentation Chiller Kits now available
They look great. I ordered mine today!
- --frank
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:02:14 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62@hotmail.com>
Subject: sour
Sir:
Not sure what the sour taste comes from but I do have a few suggestions.
Get a water filter. A simple charcoal one will do to get rid of chlorine and
it really makes a difference. I've tried the faucet mounted type with the
cartridge mounted on the faucet and they're just a pain in the butt. I have
one that mounts on the faucet with the actual filter separate on the
counter. It works well and is much more out of the way. However for brewing
I use an inline charcoal filter made for ice makers. It comes with quick
connects but you have to build an adaptor to fit. I go to a garden hose.
Fittings ran a couple or 3 bucks. The filter itself cost $15. A friend of
mine uses the undersink type of cartridge filter made up with fittings to
hook up to a hose also. His cost more and does the same job as mine.
I keg my beer almost exclusively but when I did bottle I had problems with
flat beer. I think the reason was not draining the sanitizer completely and
the several drops left killed the yeast. I'm told that running your bottles
through a dishwasher (without any soap) is adequate for sanitation.
A simple trick to cut down on the possibility of infection is to use
something like lysol spray. Spray the air in your kitchen to knock down any
wild yeasts or other nasties.
Good luck,
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:50:56 -0500
From: "ZANON, JON" <JEZANON@SEATSINC.COM>
Subject: Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer
- -----Original Message-----
From: ZANON, JON
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:46 AM
To: 'post@hbd.org'
Subject: Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer
- -----Original Message-----
From: ZANON, JON
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:41 AM
To: 'dlake@amuni.com'
Subject: Jon's Probably Not Sour Beer
Sorry to bother you again but you did respond and I have a hankering to get
this right.....You know...maybe this could better be described as a dry
metalic taste. Very pronounced. It isn't really sour I suppose, not like
vinegar, more metalic, or mineral, but sort of unidentifiable. Oxides from
the chiller? Is there a particular cleaner I should use to clean the
outside of the copper. I just detergent washed it rinsed it and put it in
the One Step. Wait..OK...I found some info on OneStep on the internet. It
says it is an oxygenating sanitizer. It works by combining with water and
producing hydrogen peroxide... Have you ever gargled with Hyd Peroxide?
My grandmother had me do it once for a sore throat and come to think of it
this beer has that sort of flavor, YUM YUM. Could the oxygenating/hydrogen
peroxide cause this problem perhaps? The article Says the stuff breaks down
to organic salts similar to what is in water anyway after a few weeks. That
is, it can't be kept in solution and effective for more time than this as it
deteriorates. Maybe the beer will come back?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 14:57:57 -0400
From: Anderson Andy W NSSC <AndersonRW@NAVSEA.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Spirit of Free Beer IX
Hi,
Just a quick plug for Spirit of Free Beer IX
The Spirit of Free Beer is the annual homebrew contest held by Brewers
United for Real Potables (BURP) in the Washington, DC metropolitan area.
This year's contest will be held on May 19-20. Entries will be accepted
between April 27 and May 12. See our web page at
http://www.burp.org/SoFB2001/ for more details.
BURP's annual Spirit of Free Beer has become one of the best, largest,
and most fun competitions on the East coast. Each year, homebrewers
throughout the country submit their best beers to this competition, trying
to win their share of the lavishly rich prizes for which this competition is
known. Get your entries in for fantastic prizes, and a chance to qualify for
the MCAB.
Quality judging is the hallmark of the Spirit of Free Beer and is our
top priority. Quality judging means that you get the best possible feedback
for your entries. BURP recruits qualified BJCP judges. Every entry will be
judged by at least two BJCP judges, and three will judge most entries. If
you are interested in judging, and are BJCP-qualified, please contact our
Judge Coordinator, Tom Cannon, at judges@burp.org
If you do not have web-access, and would like a snail-mail package,
please send me your request at Andy@burp.org
Cheers,
Andy Anderson
2001 SoFB Contest Organizer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:49:09 -0300
From: "Alexandre Carminati" <carminat@email.com>
Subject: Aeration - What kind of Oxygen ?
When using oxygen (and a difusion stone) for mash aeration, what kind of
oxygen should I use - I mean: it is available in medicinal and industrial
versions... which one ? Both ?
Other question: a CO2 cylinder can be filled with Oxygen ?
Thanks a lot
Alexandre
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:44:56 -0400
From: "Murray, Eric" <emurray@sud-chemieinc.com>
Subject: RE: False bottom
>>>I mash in a 150 qt rectangular cooler and with the plastic pipe manifold
I made, and I have gotten horrible extraction / efficiency. >>>
I also mash in a rectangular cooler with a cpvc manifold. My extraction rate
is usually around 75% sometimes a little more. I would suspect that because
of the size of your cooler (150 qt seems rather large), that your grain bed
is too shallow unless you were making 10 or 15 gallons of a really big beer.
My cooler is 48 qts and I can get around 30 lbs of grain in one mash. Not
enough for a 10% beer (I do two mashes for those), but plenty for a 7.5%
beer.
Eric Murray
Louisville, KY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:48:02 -0400
From: "Murray, Eric" <emurray@sud-chemieinc.com>
Subject: re: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk!
David writes:
>> I'd like to nominate www-dot-beerlink-dot-co-dot-uk as the most
annoying beer website. This morning I received three (3) separate
e-mails informing me that there was a new beer link site and that I had
"requested" the information. All messages were from "Rachel". Normally
I just delete spam, but when I can slam them in their home territory, I
take the opportunity.
Anybody else get these? <<<
Yes,
I got the spam too. On top of that, the site is pretty useless. I'll second
the motion to ban the site.
Eric Murray
Louisville, KY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:23:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: steven thomas <drstrangebrew@mail.com>
Subject: Serving line fluid dynamics
Greetings All--
Fluid flow through tubing varies with the diameter, following Pioseulle's
law: flow is inversely proportional to the fourth power of the tube radius
(F~1/r^4). Thus, doubling the diameter yields sixteen times the flow,
tripling the diameter yields eightyone times the flow, assuming the driving
pressure differential and length are maintained.
Hydrogen bonds are irrelevant; fluids entirely without hydrogen follow the
same pattern.
Flow is also proportional to the driving pressure differential (F~dP) and
flow is inversely proportional to the tube length (F~1/L).
By tweaking the tubing diameter, length, and the pressure difference the
desired flow is readily attained.
- --Steve
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:35:53 -0500
From: "elvira toews" <etoews1@home.com>
Subject: beer line, hops comparison, burners, spruce, horrible British web sites
Patrick in Toronto has a most amazingly convoluted explanation for pressure
drop in beer line, but since it will give more or less the correct result, I
won't bother confusing anyone with fluid mechanics as taught to the pros.
Good thinking, Patrick.
The best summary of hop types I've seen is in "Designing Great Beers" by Ray
Daniels. The funny thing is that the actual flavours fall about halfway
between what the chemical analyses tell us and what the hop breeders were
trying to accomplish when developing, e.g. Williamette or Mt. Hood.
I don't know what's on the list in Michigan, but Wal-Mart in Canada
advertised in today's flier an 85,000 BTU boiler c/w pot and basket for only
$80 Canadian. I still plan to spend next brewing season indoors, but I am
sorely tempted.
The best spruce variety for brewing is the one that grows best near you.
For me, that's blue or black spruce. I went picking near Kenora, Ontario in
May a couple of years ago and it was a bit early. The spring growth was
barely 1/2 inch long and it took an hour and a half to get about a pound. I
would wait until early summer. The early buds were lovely, though. I might
try them in a salad some time, they were that fresh and tender.
David in Cincinnati is too kind to beerlink. I had the misfortune to get
that email from Rachel at work. The "...information you requested..." line
had me worrying about viruses, but I trust our sysop to be on top of
security. Let us know if your system acts up. It's a pisspoor website
anyway, all commercial and breweriana stuff.
Cheers to all,
Sean Richens
srichens@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:57:57 -0500
From: "Gregg Stearns" <gregg@ispi.net>
Subject: Fermentation lengths?
Greetings fellow brewers.
I've been brewing for a few years now, but still consider myself an
'amatuer'.
My question is:
Whenever I brew a batch, it ferments very quickly, like the primary is done
withing 48 hours. Is this 'normal'?
Yes, my fermentation temp. is a few degrees high (usually around 72 degrees
F).
>From brewing to bottling is never more than 7 days, and I don't have
problems/off tastes from too warm a fermentation.
Second question has to do with secondary fermentations. The book i have
says "primary for 5 days, secondary for 10 days" but the local brew shop
guru says "3-4 days primary, until high krausen, then no more than 5 days in
a secondary." These are his instructions for those that are bottling.
Obviously those who keg and force carbonate can go longer in the secondary
because viable yeast for bottle conditioning/carbonating isn't necessary.
So, does 3-4 days primary, 4-5 days secondary sound right to ya'll?
please CC your reply to gregg@ispi.net
- --
Gregg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:08:15 -0800
From: Clifton Moore <clifton.moore@att.net>
Subject: re: False bottom and efficiency
>>>I mash in a 150 qt rectangular cooler and with the plastic pipe manifold
I made, and I have gotten horrible extraction / efficiency. >>>
I have seen that manifold design can have a great effect on efficiency.
I have used plastic plumbing pipe with a mix of t and elbow fittings that
are easily
cut to change the flow pattern. I agree that a shallow grain bed and a
suboptimal
manifold can give bad extractions.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:14:20 -0400
From: Steve Thompson <viking@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Do not visit www.beerlink.co.uk!
I got it too.. Only once though and Rachel was the alleged culprit. Now I
have someone to send those annoying chain e-mails too. :-)
As an aside my brewing partner and I recently decided to experiment a
little and threw together a sorghum ale. Due to the fact it clouded up
terribly in the carboy (this was during the 2nd week of fermenting) we
added some boiled up some Irish Moss and added it to the carboy and let it
sit an extra week. It cleared up wonderfully and we bottled it after the
3rd week.. that was a month ago and to cut to the chase.. it didn't
carbonate. Anything we can do to salvage it?? or is it time to pour it out?
Thanks in advance. Steve
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3612, 04/20/01
*************************************
-------
