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HOMEBREW Digest #3567
HOMEBREW Digest #3567 Tue 27 February 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
Re: Zinc in your Wort ("patrick finerty jr.")
Re: Yates/Pivo pilsner (David Lamotte)
Conical fermenter procedures ("Lou King")
Oxygen in the mash and starch conversion (drinker)
RIMS problem ("Richard Sieben")
RE: Dark malts in Schwarzbier ("John B. Doherty")
Beer in/near Indianapolis ("james suchy")
Copper in Copper chillers (I/T)" <stjones@eastman.com>
How to clean counterflow chiller? ("R.M. Opalko")
North Tampa area (Mjbrewit)
Calibrating Thermometers ("Pete Calinski")
using a pump for recirculating on a direct-fired tun (Marc Sedam)
'Lectric Elements ("The Holders")
Cal thermometers ("Peed, John")
RIMS solved! ("Matt Hollingsworth")
cylindroconical advantages ("Steven M. Claussen")
Son of underattenuation blues (Paul Shick)
Re: enzymes in malt extract (Jeff Renner)
Stone Beer ("Hill, Steve")
lonely phil.... (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
Irish dry stout profiles ("Dave Sapsis")
Re.: RIMS Problem ("elvira toews")
Hops: Pellets vs. Cakes ("Mr. Shane A. Saylor")
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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* Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/17/01!
* http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information
*
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* http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 00:25:35 -0500
From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc@finerty.net>
Subject: Re: Zinc in your Wort
can someone please tell me what an acceptable final conc of Zn is in
wort? i'll do the expt with two 5 gal carboys (+Zn and no Zn added)
with a couple of strains and report the results.
my current plan is to simply add the Zn to the primary so that i avoid
any ppt that may occur during the boil.
it should be noted that i'm pitching 2 L yeast grown in the lab under
very good yeast growth conditions (YPD media i continually supplement
with a mixture of glucose and maltose) and which are then collected by
centrifugation, resuspended in an LME solution and added to the wort.
i've never had an attenuation problem but i have had the yeast really
slow down and take several days to drop a couple of points off the
gravity, adding perhaps 2-3 days to the fermenation process. it would
be nice if the curve were to be more linear instead of exponential.
patrick in Toronto
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:20:41 +1100
From: David Lamotte <lamotted@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Yates/Pivo pilsner
Sensing the lack of decent brewing content in recent digests, Phil has
risen to the occasion and reported on the Yates/Pivo pilsner?
Phils assessment as "a most enjoyable drop" does not surprise me at all, as
while I wasn't present at its birth, I was there for the christening. Went
down very well indeed.
Phil, as it has been rated as "a most enjoyable beer" by the Burradoo
tastebuds is there any chance that you could post the recipe ? And how did
the differences between the two yeast varieties end up.
And no, you are not the only Aussie left on the HBD. The rest of us are
watching and waiting for some relevant brewing related information before
we chime in. Remember, we all took the 'content without malice' oath that
you distributed.
It is just that we don't see zinc, fightin' Canucks and Florida brewpubs as
being particularly relevant to OUR brewing.
David Lamotte
Recently returned to Newcastle N.S.W. for Burradoo with an empty keg.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:23:04 -0500
From: "Lou King" <lking@pobox.com>
Subject: Conical fermenter procedures
I am using my new conical fermenter for the first time.
I realize if I open the bottom port to let the trub out, it will pull the
solution out of my fermentation lock. I'm thinking of pulling out the
little upsidedown cup from the fermentation lock and proceeding.
If you have a conical fermenter, what do you do for this?
Any other suggestions about it's use?
Private email is preferred.
Lou
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 08:16:56 -0500
From: drinker@med.unc.edu
Subject: Oxygen in the mash and starch conversion
Hello,
Can anyone please tell me where the oxygen atoms come from which are
needed to fill up the empty valences every time a (1-4) glucose-glucose
bond is broken? I've looked in my sources and could not find the
subject addressed anywhere. Thanks, David
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:49:04 -0600
From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1@email.msn.com>
Subject: RIMS problem
Matt is having problems with his CompUBrew:
sorry Matt, I have never noted any grain astringency, even when I
oversparged a bit on a very delicate (read lite) beer. In fact that beer
came out flawless. As to a few grain husks coming through, well it seems to
happen and has not caused me any problem, they get filtered out in the
boilingkettle when I drain off through the hop bed, which acts as a hot
break filter anyway. Did you leave the mash paddle in? I found that if you
take it out the wort will preferentially flow down the hole in the middle
that is the axis point for the paddle, so leave it in when you sparge. Also
the hole passes a lot more grains!
Do you take the heating element out after each brew to brush it off? If you
don't the protiens can bake on in the next brew and impart a burnt flavor.
Maybe you are using a different batch of grains than you were before that
lend themselves to a more astringent flavor, not that I have ever observed
this happening.
Finally, maybe your heat sensor is out of calibration, have you taken it out
lately to clean it? you could get a buildup of some sort around it and it
may delay the heat transfer to it so it lags in it's readings. This may be
causing your mashout temperature to go too high and maybe the astringency is
coming into play at that point. Call ABT and ask them for the instructions
to calibrate the system. I found mine to be reading 4 degrees too low on
the hot end at one point, but that was because they had put one together
for me without the normal calibration time. I spent the better part of an
hour recalibrating it and it seems to be right on the mark now.
Note my new e-mail addy is: sier1@msn.com
you might have been trying me at my old work addy at Aerial, which no longer
exists sadly enough.
hope this helps you out,
Rich Sieben
Island Lake, IL
northwest nowhere from chicago
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 05:57:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "John B. Doherty" <dohertybrewing@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Dark malts in Schwarzbier
Dave,
Sorry this is a week after your original post, but I've gotten behind _again_
on my HBD. I just brewed a Schwarzbier a few months ago, and I'd be happy to
share my recipe. After a honeymoon trip which included a few days in Munich,
I felt inspired, so I brewed up a Helles, Dunkel, Maerzen and Schwarzbier. I
did alot of background research on the Schwarz style, and found a great recipe
onthe Weyermann website at
http://www.weyermann.de/recipe6.html
I planned ahead and made a special order with my local HB shop to get a pound
of that Carafa III dehusked black malt. I think that malt really made the
beer. The color came out black as night, yet the dark malt character was
nicely subdued - not at all Stout or Porter like. Vaguely reminiscent of
Kostritzer Schwarzbier, but I should really do a side by side sometime before
the keg kicks.
Never one to outright grab someone else's recipe, mine was:
For 5.5 gallons
DWC Pilsner Malt 6.5#
Light Munich Malt 2#
Dark Munich Malt 1#
Carafa Special III 0.5# (added separately between b-Amylase & starch rest)
Acid Rest 100F 15 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat
Protein Rest 130F 30 minutes Pull first decoction
1st Decoction thick 1/3 158F 30 minutes boil 10 minutes Return to Main Mash
b-Amylase Rest 142F 30 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat
Starch Conversion 154F 60 minutes Add 2 qt. boiling water and heat
Mash Out 168F 15 minutes
Hopped it pretty lightly with Hersbrucker and Tettnanger.
Fermented @ 8C for 3 weeks with a big WY2308 slurry left over from the Munich
Dunkel batch - (2 weeks primary in glass, 1 week secondary in glass) then
slowly cooled to 0C over one week, racked to a corny and lagered 6 weeks.
This beer just took 1st Place in Euro Dark Lagers at the Boston Homebrew
Competition on 2/10/01 (the aforementioned Munich Dunkel took 3rd in the same
category). I don't have the judges comments back yet, but as I said, the
dark malt character is subdued and there's only the slightest hint of
smokiness. If you close your eyes, you'd never guess this beer was as dark as
it is just by tasting it. Its almost a "Schwarz-Pils" like I've seen reference
to in some Czech breweries. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
-John Doherty
===================================================
> RiedelD@pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca wrote:
> >While we're on the topic of what malts to use to darken
> >a dunkelweizen... what's the consensus on Schwarzbier?
> >
> >BJCP discusses "supplemented by a small amount of
> >roasted malts for the dark color and subtle roast flavors".
> >So how much and what variety do people tend to use. I
> >used about 100g (4/5ths chocolate, 1/5 patent) in a 23L
> >batch with a little (25g) of Special-B. The main grist was
> >about 50% Munich.
> >
> >The flavour of the wort, post-boil, was about what I expected,
> >but the colour was definately a little light. Not very black.
> >More like dunkel in colour (translucent brown).
> >
> >Any thoughts?
> >Dave
> >Victoria, BC, Canada.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:09:03 +0500
From: "james suchy" <grayling@provide.net>
Subject: Beer in/near Indianapolis
Hello All -
I may have the opportunity to take a job in Indianapolis. Being that my current
location is in Michigan, an incredible beer state(and very close to the center
of the brewing universe), I must include the beer-worthiness of Indianapolis
in my decision making process.
I'd be interested in hearing about anything beer related from Indiana. Brew
clubs, homebrew shops, brewpubs, festivals, anything else. I would hate to
move the wife down there only to find out we have to come back because the beer
scene is substandard!
Cheers!
Jim Suchy
(very worried about Hoosier beer at 90 degrees, 21 miles Rennerian)
http://www.provide.net
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:14:55 -0500
From: "Jones, Steve (I/T)" <stjones@eastman.com>
Subject: Copper in Copper chillers
Greetings, all.
Dave Houseman (BTW, a very nice narrative on Irish stouts) asked why anyone
would use copper tubing for the outer skin of a counterflow chiller. Here is
my reason for doing so:
I got together with two other brew club members, and we made 3 chillers. We
bought a 60' coil of 3/4" ID tubing, and 3 25' coils of 3/8" ID tubing. It
took very little time to build them (2 used garden hose fittings - I hard
plumbed mine into my rack), and the cost was about $40 each. We could
probably have split the 60' of 3/4" tubing to make 5 12 ft chillers instead
of 3 20' chillers and they would have been just as effective, for around $25
each.
One of my reasons for using copper on the outside was this: I sanitize my
wort path (chiller, pump, output tubing) by running the boiling wort thru
the chiller to the pump and back into the kettle for the last 10 minutes of
the boil without any water in the area between the two coils. Then I turn on
the chilling water and divert the output of the pump into my fermenter. With
the boiling wort running thru it during the sanitation cycle, any place the
inner line touched the outer line would have gotten a vinyl hose very hot,
maybe hot enough to weaken it or even melt a hole in it. Also, mine is
mounted under my boiler in the rack, close enough to the burner to be
exposed to heat. I don't have to worry about that will the copper outer
skin.
I'm sure the Maxichiller and the Chillzilla are very good chillers, but I'm
also sure that mine chills as well as either of them, and the cost was much
lower. They are also very compact, but mine is about 18" in diameter. I
wrapped it around a 1/2 bbl keg - I was too worried about kinking the 3/4"
tubing to try to make the diameter any smaller. However, for a permanent
mounting in my rack, it fits just fine. Another advantage is that they are
only 3 coils high - something to consider when you don't have a lot of extra
vertical space between your boiler and fermenter.
Just my quarter's worth (inflation is a bitch).
Steve Jones
Johnson City, TN
(5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian)
http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:12:22 -0600
From: "R.M. Opalko" <opalko@ebicom.net>
Subject: How to clean counterflow chiller?
Howdy all, with the demise of deja.com I have been having trouble finding
the good info I used to find in seconds. Anyhow, I have a 3-tier system
that I use a counterflow chiller (25' of copper tubing inside of a garden
hose) with. It works beautifully, almost too well sometimes.
My question is, what is the best way to clean/sanitize the inside of the
copper tubing? I know Dave Miller recommends a CIP system that includes a
recirculating pump, but I don't have and don't forsee one in the future. So
far what I have been doing is, after I'm done brewing, reusing the warm
water runoff back into one of the kettles. I boil that water and run it
back through the counterflow chiller. It clears out any gunk, but do I need
to do more? I mean, it seems like boiling water should kill anything living
in there? But do I need to re-sanitize before the next session? How?
Cheers!
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:34:33 EST
From: Mjbrewit@aol.com
Subject: North Tampa area
Can anyone help me with good beer stores in the north Tampa area. I recently
relocated and can't find much better than Becks and the like from Walgreens.
ABC liquors has some goodies, but its all in the $7 range.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:03:21 -0500
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski@adelphia.net>
Subject: Calibrating Thermometers
Jim Dunlap asked:
>Do you have any refernece marterial on the topic.
No, just experience.
>I am really interested since I spent years mashing in about 5F over
>what I thought until I used the boil/ice bath to calibrate. (By the Way
all
>the beers I made with inaccurate measurements were great).
See text below about my view of temperature variations in the mash tun.
>The glass ones have a liquid in it which should expand at a linear rate
until it goes thru a
>phase change.
Assuming, for example, the diameter of the channel the liquid is expanding
in is constant. I have a laboratory grade mercury thermometer that is
traceable to the National Bureau of Standards or what ever they call
themselves these days (is it NITS or something). It includes a calibration
curve that at the point of greatest error (40C) has a correction value of
0.485C or nearly 1F. As I said this laboratory grade thermometer.
>The metal probes, I believe are bi-metal and also have a linear thermal
expansion coefficient.
Probably, I can't say but, from experience, I can't adjust them so both the
freezing and boiling settings satisfy me. They may be linear but the slope
isn't right.
So, as I said, I worry that the thermometer requires no correction in the
range of mash temperatures. That is where it is most critical.
I just have to say that I believe we are making too much of this. Absolute,
homogeneous temperature doesn't exist in a mash tun. I have measured as
much as an 8F temperature variation at various points in the mash tun and
mine is well insulated. So what does this say, I believe that most of us
(and even the professionals) mash across a temperature range. From top to
bottom and perhaps from center to side, the temperature is different. As a
result, different parts of the grain bed are mashing a different
temperatures. The end result is a wort that contains a combination of
mashes across a temperature range. So what, if you always use the same
thermometer and always measure at the same location, you should get
consistent results.
If you make one brew and decide that the you would like to try it next time
at a higher temperature, do it. Although you may think you have been
mashing at 158F and want to try 162F, what you may actually be doing is
taking a mash that ranged from 154F-162F to one that ranges 158F-166F. You
will see a difference. After a few tries, you will settle in on a
temperature setting that gives you the profile you like.
A problem could arise in if you change the location of your temperature
reading or your thermometer or you want to duplicate someone else's recipe.
Bret Mayden asked:
> How did you check accuracy in the middle of the range? What type of
instrument is your
>standard thermometer?
Luckily, I acquired a lab. grade thermometer.
>Do you adjust your mash procedures for errors from your thermometer?
>If so, how do you do this?
I calibrate my thermometers in a oil bath heated to the 150F-160F range as
measured with my lab. thermometer.
Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY
0^45'49.1" North, 5^7'9.5" East of Jeff Renner.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:25:06 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: using a pump for recirculating on a direct-fired tun
I really gave my pump a workout this time. I did an infusion to
start off, and used a liquor/grist of 1.25qt/lb. Began at 149F
and let it sit for 45 minutes. Then I opened the valves and
started the pump. It only clogged once this time before running
clear. Once I was certain that I was recirculating OK, I fired
up the burner under the tun and kept the heat to the point that I
could barely hear it yet could still see the blue flame.
I kept waiting to smell burnt grains or something, but it never
happened. I turned the burner off when the mash reached 154F in
about 5 minutes, but let the pump run. After sitting for a bit,
I re-lit the burner and turned the heat up a little higher to try
and reach mash-out temps. Waited for the burning smell which
never happened. Temps were raised to 179F in about 20 minutes.
Turned the burner off and kept the pump running. 15 minutes
later I turned the pump off, removed the mash-tun from the burner
and replaced it with the kettle. Hooked up the recirculating
tube to the kettle and turned the pump on again. Crystal clear
wort started flowing into the kettle--no wuckas.
I kept up the sparge until 9 gallons went into the tun. Towards
the end of the sparge I could see the flow slowing, so I turned
off all the valves and the pump. Collected slightly more than 13
gallons in the kettle. To clear out the mash tun I opened all
the valves and turned the pump on full-bore. Less than one quart
of liquid came out before the pump ran dry! My loss in the mash
tun is about 1.5pts. I'm using a Stainless in Seattle 10" screen
in the bottom of a converted keg.
Once the boiling was over, I whirlpooled and hooked the pump up
to my CF chiller. Ran off 10.5 gallons into two buckets in under
10 minutes using about 20 gallons of water. The only problem was
towards the end of the run I got some hop leaves in the pump
which clogged the outflow. It took some doing to clear it but it
eventually worked.
The other magical part of using the pump was that I could hook it
up to recirculate PBW through my CF chiller, so I was certain the
inside of the chiller was clean (ran the flow backwards through
the chiller for better cleaning). Once the PBW wash was done I
recirculated boiling water through the pump and chiller to ensure
the PBW was rinsed off well. The recirc was from 2 gallons of
boiling water on my stove, so at the end of this process my
chiller and pump were both clean and sanitized.
My fears in using the pump on a direct-fired tun were for
naught. It rules and I'm psyched to keep using it. I can see no
problem using the pump for multi-step mashes of thick grists.
The best part of the day, though, was a comment from the person
who I was brewing the beer for. She said "It seems like if you
had another burner out here that the whole process would go much
faster." I, of course, ran to the wife to tell her. Shockingly,
she agreed. So now I get to buy another burner, but have to
agree that I can never brew anything inside on the stove ever
again. I greedily said "Of course, darling!"
- --
Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:25:54 -0800
From: "The Holders" <zymie@charter.net>
Subject: 'Lectric Elements
Marc Hawley says:
"I am using regular hot water heater elements, not the low watt density
types."
I must be weird, cause I'm using cold water heating elements. Are the
elements designed to heat hot water more efficient?
Also, what tool is best to unloosen a hot water heater element?
I use 4500W in my HLT, but have yet to set a stopwatch to it.
Wayne Holder AKA Zymie
Long Beach CA
http://www.zymico.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:44:29 -0500
From: "Peed, John" <jpeed@elotouch.com>
Subject: Cal thermometers
Williams Brewing has a really good calibration thermometer (glass, mercury
filled). See item E at http://www.williamsbrewing.com/rmometer.htm. Pricey
and too fragile for every day use, but a damned good calibration instrument.
Their Brewer's Thermometer (Item A) is a fine every day thermometer and it
has a calibration nut that allows you to dial it in at a specific temp (150,
for instance). They appear to be accurate to within a degree or so over the
practical working range.
I've found it very difficult to find thermometers that I can really trust.
The calibration thermometer and calibratible workday thermometers solve that
problem. Incidentally, I used to use a hand-held digital thermometer until
I realized that holding it over the hot mash made the reading inaccurate
because the electronics weren't temperature-compensated. Talk about
useless!
John Peed
Knoxville, TN
------------------------------
Date: 26 Feb 2001 11:44:26 -0800
From: "Matt Hollingsworth" <colorart@spiritone.com>
Subject: RIMS solved!
Hello!
I received many, many responses with regards to my RIMS problem. The
problem seems to have been discovered and solved!! Yay!
Here's the tale of what went wrong, in the hopes that you can avoid the same
folly.
I bought my RIMS system from Steinbarts in Portland. It's from Advanced
Brewing Technoology. I would heartily recommend their system. It's only
the mash tun, so it's not as epensive as the multiple piece systems (mine
was around $1000).
Anyway, Steinbarts bought this system from someone and it was already
assembled. They also lost the instruction book somewhere along the lines.
Usually this system is put together by the customer (including assembling
the heating element). There are evidently instructions that include how to
clean the heating element. Being a dumb artist, I did NOT clean the heating
element. I hadn't seen the instructions, didn't assemble the unit and
didn't know any better. After brewing, I would run a hose over to the
machine and run very fast water through the system to clean it out. Little
did I know that syrupy wort was heating on the element and drying on there.
I didn't even know that the heating element was removable.
The good people at ABT told me what was wrong immediately when contacted.
They're also sending me a cleaning kit free of charge (as well as their
instruction sheet). The system is pretty self explanatory, so I had luck
brewing with it until the gunk built up on the element. I removed the
element today, and it was indeed totally coated with dried wort. Smelling
it recalled the husky, kinda almost peat malt kinda smell and taste that had
been in my beers for the last few batches. Foul.
So, after posting to a number of places, my problem was solved within 24
hours. I should have asked for help sooner. I didn't because I thought the
problem was one of the normal things, like oversparging, pH or overly
crushed grains.
The lesson here, when in doubt, ask your brewing buddies to help
troubleshoot. If nothing else, it'll give you multiple brains crunching
your problem.
My thanks go out to everyone who helped to think this thing through.
Another side benefit of this problem was that it caused an overview of my
technique and a tightening up of standards. Even if I did ruin 6 or so
batches, my glass is still half full of homebrew!
Cheers!
-Matt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:53:30 -0800
From: "Steven M. Claussen" <sclaussen@mail.kindercare.com>
Subject: cylindroconical advantages
In HBD #3566, Steve Alexander wrote:
>A sub-15gal cylindroconical owner and his money are soon parted. Seems
a
>terribly expensive way to harvest yeast, and the principles of large CC
>fermenter that improve fermentation performance don't apply on the
smaller
>scale.
Spoken like a guy who doesn't own one!
I've had a 12.2 gallon cylindroconical for about two years. In addition
to making yeast harvesting WAY easier, efficient and less messy, I can
think of at least the following advantages:
1) trub removal with the flick of a valve
2) easy access through huge top opening for cleaning, etc.
3) the ability to safely transfer to cornies using CO2 pressure
4) no need to use a secondary (if you believe in that sort of thing)
5) side port makes sediment free transfers easy
6) stainless steel, in addition to looking really cool, is easy to clean
and is extremely durable.
7) less racking and cleaning = more time to drink
-Steve Claussen in PDX
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:03:39 -0500
From: Paul Shick <shick@jcu.edu>
Subject: Son of underattenuation blues
Hello all,
Again, my thanks to all who proposed solutions to my
incomplete fermentation woes. I calibrated one of my thermometers
yesterday, finding that it was exactly right at the water boiling
point, so my problem doesn't seem to be tied to mash temperatures.
I'm leaning more toward the zinc shortage theory, because of some
notes from Steve Alexxander and Nathan Kanous. Initially, this
seemed unlikely, because my new house uses the same water source
(even the same water mains) as the old house, where I had no problems
with underattenuation. However, I've since realized that the old house
had a fair amount of galvanized plumbing, where the new house has almost
all copper piping. It could be that the galvanized pipes added very
small amounts of zinc to the water, but the copper does not. If the
zinc levels are right at the edge, as far as yeast requirements, even
such a small reduction might be causing my problems. I plan to add
about 15-20mg of zinc chloride to my next batch, just to see if this
might be it. Of course, with my crude weighing capabilities, this will
be a real crap shoot, but we'll see. Any recommendations for zinc
chloride sources would be appreciated. So far, the health food stores
don't seem to have it. If Jethro can arrange for a shipment of
servomyces, that would certainly be much appreciated.
Paul Shick
Contemplating trace minerals
in Cleveland Hts, OH
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:03:43 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: enzymes in malt extract
The Man From Plaid <pbabcock@hbd.org> wrote:
>Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu> writes:
>
>> Anyhoo, there was mention in the article that Alexander's
>> Extracts have enzymic activity? Is this right? I can see where
>> it would be possible based on how the extracts are created (low
>> temp evaporation), but have never heard of extracts with active
>> degrees Linter.
>
>I remember seeing cans marked "Diastatic Malt Extract" back when I brewed
>nothing but extract beers.
Edme used to make this, which they called DME. This was before this
abbreviation became common for dry malt extract. I used it a few
times back in the 70's. I haven't seen it for many years, but it may
still be produced.
Now back to the garage/brewery, where I'm mashing my McGinty's
Irish-American Red Ale with Hallertauer Mittelfrue mash hops. This
should warm Marc's heart.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:52:14 -0500
From: "Hill, Steve" <SHill@advanta.com>
Subject: Stone Beer
Need a source of Graywacke for making some stone beer. Any help will be
greatly appreciated? Anyone in the Northwest or Pacific coast brewing stone
beer?
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:02:50 +1100 (EST)
From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan@aus.sun.com>
Subject: lonely phil....
Phil,
Hark so lonely on the HBD.
Well I would have been more than happy to join you in the fun that
the PP would bring.....except you never did reply to me about coming
down to Bowral.
I was in Bowral at my sisters new house, but nere did I get the meekest
of reply to my interest in coming by. Do I take this as a slant, ignored
and rejected?
I will be back down there in a matter of weeks. Perhaps you might like
a cuddle then. Now before you get carried away (I know you must be excited
with the Mardi Gra pending, I can feel the excitement from trolley dolly's
around Australia now!) it will only be a cuddle...and i will have my
cardi and slippers on as well (but promise to shave so i dont remind you
of Nanna)
So phil...drop me a line,
Scotty
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:04:27 -0800
From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis@earthlink.net>
Subject: Irish dry stout profiles
In "Stout" by Lewis, just one of the cool pieces of information is the
comparative analysis of the three Irish Dry Stouts. The following table
shows compositions taken from kegs of Guinness, Murphy's and Beamish, where
A, B, and C were randomized (that is, which beer is represented by which
column of data was not identified, but some educated guesses as to which is
which seems fair game). These draft beers were obtained here in California,
hence represent whatever was getting sent out this way at the time ('97 I
think). The analyses were done at UC Davis' brewing lab.
BEER
A B C
OG (degree P) 9.75 9.09 9.53
Ethanol (% v/v) 4.20 3.88 4.11
IBU 48 33 37
pH 4.00 4.20 3.97
total acidity
(%w/v as acetic acid) 0.097 0.070 0.071
color (EBC @430 nm) 125 117 124
Energy value
(kcal/100ml) 35 33 34
FERMENTATION VOLATILES
(all are mg/L)
Ethyl Acetate 12 19 11
Isoamyl Acetate 1.0 3.5 1.4
Propanol 17 19 11
Isobutanol 15 33 18
Isoamyl Alcohols 48 71 66
Acetaldehyde 1 1 1
Diacetyl 0.03 0.08 0.05
2,3 Pentanedione 0.01 0.02 0.02
While very similar in some attributes, there are marked differences in
others.
I know what my guesses are...
- --dave sapsis, sacramento
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 21:59:58 -0600
From: "elvira toews" <etoews1@home.com>
Subject: Re.: RIMS Problem
Matt:
Sounds like a real bummer. There wasn't some change in raw materials, was
there? Things come to mind ranging from a touch of mold on the malt to a
change in the water supply.
Sean r.
srichens@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:08:32 -0500
From: "Mr. Shane A. Saylor" <shane.saylor@verizon.net>
Subject: Hops: Pellets vs. Cakes
Greetings. I have question of great interest. Most
homebrewers get hop pellets (I assume) because they are the most
common for of the various hops available. But on The Food Network, I
was watching Emril Live! with Chef Emril Lagasse. He maid a ale. And
he had a gent from a NY Brewery on and they were discussing the
various hops, grains & malts. In his ale, Emril used not hop pellets,
but HOP CAKES. I assume that the cakes are fresher and therefore add a
more "hoppy" flavor to the brew. Thoughts???
P.S. What exactly are the PROS & CONS of using pellets vs. cakes?
- --
"There is no truth, only fictions woven by power to justify itself." --
Bruce Thornton, "Plagues Of The Mind"
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #3567, 02/27/01
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