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HOMEBREW Digest #3558
HOMEBREW Digest #3558 Fri 16 February 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
RIMS & Hot Side Aeration? ("Arnie Wierenga")
re: Diacetyl in PU ("Stephen Alexander")
Alcohol Metabolism ("A. J.")
Burradoo Dreaming (David Lamotte)
Weld Free Kits ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
California V (Whitelabs) (leavitdg)
some thoughts on secondary-ing (leavitdg)
Oxyclean & PBW (JGORMAN)
Re: dry hopping (Martin_Brungard)
Mash tuns ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
Re: alternative St Paddy's brew (Jeff Renner)
killed yeast question (Jeremy Lakey)
Post for The Ozzies/Anti-Seize (Richard Foote)
sanitation technique questions ("Benjy Edwards")
Hopback Design Questions ("John W. Myer")
Graham (Chad Petersen)
Screen vs. Screen ("Sweeney, David")
Beer in Hong Kong? (IndSys, SalemVA)" <Douglas.Moyer@indsys.ge.com>
Irony ("Sweeney, David")
The Graham Experiment (scott morgan)
RE: HBD on Avantgo ("Sweeney, David")
2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Competition (Drew Beechum)
Re: Millennium Ale ("Mike Maag")
Re:beer in Ireland(February 13, 2001) (WilfPhoenix)
Q. for Steve Alexander on overnight mashing ("elvira toews")
Burradoo Apology (David Lamotte)
Gott Coolers ("Steven Parfitt")
dunkelweizen color (Rama Roberts)
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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* Bluebonnet Brew-Off Entry Deadline is 2/25/01!
* http://welcome.to/bluebonnet for more information
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* Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/17/01!
* http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information
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* Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Entry Deadline is 3/20/01!
* http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:21:12 +1100
From: "Arnie Wierenga" <three_bears_brewing@hotmail.com>
Subject: RIMS & Hot Side Aeration?
Fellow brewers, first a thanks for all the wonderful info gleaned from the
last 3-4 months of subscribing to the hbd. (Yes, I've been a lurker!)
Special thanks to all those inventors of RIMS and the like - the info has
been invaluable.
Last Friday I cranked up a new RIMS successfully and while there will be
some minor mods, it was very successful.
One question regarding HSA. The system did not leak fluid during recycling,
sparging etc. This stuff is basically low pressure. I have reasonable
pressure from my water faucet and while flushing the system, closed a
strategic ball valve and watched water leak from about 3 places. Does this
mean that while recirculating, I have been inadvertantly sucking air into
the system as well?
TIA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 01:27:09 -0500
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: Diacetyl in PU
Nathan Kanous writes ...
>The only thing that I would
>ask is that those who despise diacetyl in Bohemian Pilsners not drink them
>and not espouse how terrible diacetyl is in a beer. That's a personal
>preference, not an objective assessment / description.
I have to agree. Some time ago (circa 1960 I think) sources of diacetyl
were determined to include several negative processes of brewing - infection
being the most blatant. Somehow the statement "if you have process problems
then you will have diacetyl" became erroneously corrupted to read "if you
have diacetyl then you have process problems". Many breweries went on a
campaign to rid their product of diacetyl.
Despite wide variation in personal preference, diacetyl belongs in some
styles. Makes it terribly difficult to judge beers objectively though.
-S
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 07:17:13 +0000
From: "A. J." <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Alcohol Metabolism
I'm far, far away from any reference material and therefore running on
raw memory here. But back in Number 1989 (March '96) I wrote:
A few comments on the caloric content of alcohol. Alcohol is metabolized
by
oxidation back to the acetaldehyde from which it came using the same
enzyme: alcohol dehydrogenase, but its done in the cytosol of your liver
cells instead of in yeast cells (and the ADH is different). Actually the
gastric mucosa contain some ADH (more in men than in women which is why
the
bioavailability of ethanol in women is higher than in men, a fact which
has
been exploited by men, but not gentlemen such as your writer, since time
immemorial). The acetaldehyde is further oxidzed to acetyl (this is a
noun,
remember) by another enzyme, aldehyde dehydrogenase, in the
mitochondria.
Acetaldehyde in a nasty thing (even if it does have that pleasant apple
odor) in your body and is responsible for much of the distress of
hangover.
The stuff that your grandmother snuck into your gramdfather's coffee to
control his drinking (disulfiram) blocks the action of aldhehyde
dehydrogenase thus allowing acetaldehyde to pool. Some orientals are
genetically deficient with respect to this enzyme which is why many of
them
can't drink. The acetyl quickly joins up with coenzyme A to form
acetyl-CoA
which can either go into fatty acid or cholesterol synthesis pathways or
enter the Krebs cycle to udergo oxidation to CO2 and water. In this
latter
case, all the caloric energy of the alcohol is converted to ATP just as
if
the acetate came from pyruvic acid which is the usual source (from
normal
glycolysis). The other pathways are associated with the "fatty liver"
and
modified levels of triacylglycerols in the blood of users of alcohol
(the
increases HDL/LDL ratio in moderate drinkers is thought to be a cause of
increased longevity by some).
The carbon of consumed alcohol is NOT available for glcuoneogenesis or
conversion to glycogen thus the calories of alcohol are often referred
to
as "empty calories" but they are available as a source of energy via
respiration. There are, of course, lots of problems associated with the
metabolism of alcohol, may of them due to the presence of excess
quantities
of NADH (the product of the oxidation steps) in the system. There are
also
other means by which alcohol is eliminated from the body (sweat, urine,
breath, MEOS). I have described the major one.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:45:47 +1100
From: David Lamotte <lamotted@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Burradoo Dreaming
There has been much debate regarding the incidence and levels of diacetal
in Bohemian lagers, but finally I can provide photographic evidence, which
will prove beyond doubt, that it does exist.
While I have a scientific paper in preparation (it is currently being
subjected to the peer review process), an abstract is available at
http://oz.craftbrewer.org/pivo.jpeg
This photo clearly shows Wes Smith (on the right) demonstrating how much
diacetal he has perceived in the sample. An obviously gobsmaked Captain
Yates looks on in awe from the left. While the mysterious and sceptical Dr
X is caught in the middle.
I, unfortunately, are not in the picture, as I have fainted clear away for
the reviews that they gave my beers - "No diacetal at all due to an
inncorrect sparge technique" was the unaminous opinion.
Stay tuned for the full story.
David Lamotte
Still recovering in Newcastle, NSW Australia
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 04:37:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Weld Free Kits
Wayne Holder writes:
"I can't speak for the chrome plated brass weld-free kits that advise
against overtightening, but I can give you the address for my
affordable all stainless kit.
http://www.zymico.com/weld-b-gone "
Hell Zymie Didn't even try to patronize me with free shipping...
Thus proving to us that here on the HBD there is a little bit of
Lynne and Jack in all of us!
Now I own some weld be gones and I own some bazooka screens.. There
are no finer lurking about the retail market... Plus they are
advertised for over tightening... IT IS THE AMERICAN WAY AFTERALL!!!
C'ya!
-Skotrat
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:08:22 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: California V (Whitelabs)
I am pleased with the WhiteLabs California V Ale yeast. I used it in 3
successive batches (all-grain) and all have worked well so far.
For the first batch ( a Steam Beer) I pitched the vial directly into a
1.048 wort
and it took off within a couple of hours, dropping the gravity to 1.013
at the time of bottling.
For the second batch (California Porter) I saved the slurry from the above
batch, and pitched it the day following secondary of the Steam Beer. It
took off real quick (first hour) and dropped an OG of 1.047 to 1.018.
For the third, and final use of this slurry: I collected 3/4 of a half
gallon growler full of real thick slurry. Pitched it (next day) last
night onto a Valentine Pale Ale {I know,...I should have gone darker, perhaps,
but wanted to see what would happen...ie trying to go from a porter to
a pale ale with the slurry..} OG was 1.064 and it took off literally
within 5 minutes!
I think that this Platinum series "California V" is good stuff...but am
not brave enough to try it a 4th time....
..Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:14:45 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: some thoughts on secondary-ing
I am a true believer in the value of using a secondary fermenter. It
really helps to clarify ones brews a lot.
However, is there really any reason to secondary a stout, or Porter,
or Hefe ...IF you are sure that the gravity has dropped sufficiently?
I mean, it is going to be cloudy anyway...or dark, so ...unless we
want less yeast on the bottom of the bottle...mmmm...maybe less
potential "bite"??....is/are there reason/s to secondary dark or
intentionally cloudy brews?
Any thoughts on this?
.Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:20:00 -0500
From: JGORMAN@steelcase.com
Subject: Oxyclean & PBW
I have had similar luck with Oxyclean. It seems to have similar cleaning
properties and reacts the same as PBW from Five star. I know Oxyclean is
advertised as a stain remover, but it cleans glassware, keg parts and hoses
just as well as PBW. I was wondering if the two are chemically similar or
possibly the same. Oxyclean is a heck of alot cheaper. While here, has
anyone used Saniclean, the non-foaming version of Star San? I liked the Star
San but didn't like how it foamed up.
Jason Gorman
RiverDog Brewery
GR, MI
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:15:59 -0500
From: Martin_Brungard@urscorp.com
Subject: Re: dry hopping
I tried dry hopping with plugs in a sack a few times. I never was satisfied
with the results. I now add rehydrated pellet hops directly to secondary
with no sack. The great thing with pellets is that they sink to the bottom
and generally don't get sucked up when I rack to the bottling bucket.
I have an outstanding American brown ale (blue ribbon last month at Big
Bend Brewoff with scores of 43 from Masters-level BJCP judges) that was
pellet dry hopped. There were a few hop particles in the bottom of a few
bottles, but they generally stay with the yeast cake and do not affect the
enjoyment of the finished beer. Another side effect of having the hop
particles in the bottle may be that they may be continually dry hopping the
beer in the bottle.
I rehydrate my dry hops by putting them in a pint or so of hot water that
has been boiled and allowed to cool to less than 170F. I'm hydrating in
hot water to hopefully reduce the chance of infecting my beer with critters
lurking on those hop pellets. I understand that 10 or 15 minutes at this
temperature probably kills most critters.
I also neutralize my tapwater's pH down to about 7 with a little lactic
acid. I do this to reduce tannin extraction that may produce grassiness.
In Tallahassee, it takes 7 drops per gallon to drop the tap water's pH to
7. You have to experiment to find out what that lactic amount is for your
local water source.
Try pellets next time, they generally remain fresher through the course of
handling and storage and I think they can contribute more per ounce than
plugs or whole. I'll probably not go back.
Martin Brungard
Tallahassee, FL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:37:24 -0500
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: Mash tuns
John Peed makes an interesting observation:
>...makes me wonder why people want to spend three times as much
>on a round cooler and at least four times as much on a false bottom. Is it
>just a matter of simplicity (making a slotted manifold is a bit of work if
>you don't have access to a band saw), or is there some inherent or
perceived
>benefit to brewing in the round?
You make a good observation. I'll put my money on percieved benefits. I
started with a 5 gallon round Rubbermaid cooler with a square copper
manifold. It woked fine, but that square peg in the round hole didn't sit
well with me mentally. System efficiency dropped, but only in my mind.
Then I moved up to a 13 gallon rectangular. Not because I wanted to, but
because I couldn't find the 10 gallon round, plus it cost too damn much
anyway. Well at least my mental efficiency is back up since both the
manifold and the cooler are rectangular now. But I still thought my set-up
was inferior. Would my beer taste square instead of being well-rounded and
smooth like the other guy's? I needed that round cooler!!!
After doing a number of brews and finding out that my square beer fits just
as easily in a cylindrical bottle or keg, I came to the following
conclusions.
Things I love about my rectangular cooler:
#1 - It's green - ok that doesn't count.
#2 - I use the copper manifold with 2 rows of holes (not slots) drilled 180
deg apart. The holes face the walls of the tun. You can beat the crap out
of a copper manifold and it will not leak, buckle or set your mash.
#3 - When doughing in or fiddling with the mash in any way, the open surface
area is larger allowing easier access. It's got those double doors on it
that open to the side vs being hinged on the back. The doors can be removed
as well.
#4 - The grain bed is not as deep which I think contributes to never having
had a set mash.
#5 - COST - for both the container and the manifold.
#6 - In an emergency it can be filled with ice and bottles of beer.
The only real drawback I could see to my rectangular cooler is the surface
area:volume ratio. I believe that a cylinder has a smaller SA:V ratio and
would therfore retain heat better - especially with the lid open. As to
efficiency I do not believe that there is any */significant/* difference
between square/rectangular vs. round OR manifold vs. false bottom (when
optimized). Even my designs for the future HERMS system currently include a
copper manifold in a sanke keg. But */this/* manifold will be round ;-)
> Carpe cerevisiae!
>
> Glen A. Pannicke
>
> glen@pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net
> 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD
> "Designs which work well on paper rarely do so in actual practice"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:18:34 -0500
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew@compuserve.com>
Subject: re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability
Steve Alexander cites a test mash and then states,
>>The implication
is that beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C in this
case.<<
A bad conclusion because Alpha amylase does create fermentables,
but I'll run with it...
I've been saying this quite a bit during previous discussions on mash-out.
I was always rebuffed with the comment that BA was for the most part
entirely
denatured by the time you reach mash out. Especially since in this case
mash out wasn't reached till after 100 minutes, not counting the protein
rest (during which there was assuredly denaturing).
So now the wind blows a different direction and our conclusions are
all different.
All along I had mentioned this cited test was not a good experiment to
substantiate the value of mash out on fermentability and yield. I have to
call this a test since there is no control and doesn't qualify as an
experiment. Not many conclusions can be drawn, only that in this
case here is what happened. Steve_did_say >>in this case<<.
To put another fly in the ointment: Now that we are accepting that
>>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<<
Why does a high temperature rest even produce a less fermentable
wort? afterall BA activity is increasing monotonically with increasing
temperature, with >>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout
rest at 78C<< this would make a wort increasingly fermentable at
higher mash temperatures not less fermentable.
That's rhetorical read on.
Going back 3 digests to 3554 Steve stated,
>>You've also increased it's rate of
denaturation by a factor of 4 or 6 or so, which is a lot, but nearly
balances the increased activity and substrate factors. <<
Looking back at denaturing times it seems like the factor of
increasing denaturation is 1/4 or 1/3 (@+10 F) which would not come
close to balancing the substrate factors ( dextrins created by Alpha
amylase) that are increasing about 41% per 10 degree F rise.
The bottom line? If you were to mash in at 154 F for 1 hour
and not mash out; during the 30 or 40 minute lautering the
fermentability of the wort at the end of the mash step _will_
change before you are done lautering. Afterall,
>>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<<;
so the BA is there and still working.
Mashing out _will_keep the fermentability closer to it's value at
situation you make adjustments for this drift when you decide,
"hmmm 154 wasn't hot enough, I wanted more maltiness. I'll kick
it up to 156 next time."
Stay alert, we need more lerts,
N.P. Lansing
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:19:49 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: alternative St Paddy's brew
In a private email, a brewer asked:
>I saw your recipe on HBD and would like to make it, but I am an extract
>brewer, and a novice. I was wondering if you might have a similar recipe for
>us extract guys that you could post on HBD?
That's a toughie, since part of the "American-ness" of the beer is
its use of corn (maize) adjunct. It's the same problem we have when
asked for an extract version of Classic American Pilsner (CAP). I
suppose the best thing would be to use a pale extract, some rice
syrup, and crystal and chocolate.
If you are up to a mini-mash, you could mash the corn and barley
flakes with an equal amount of malt, plus the crystal and chocolate
(here, 6-row would be best for its very high enzyme levels).
Or, you could just use an amber malt extract and a little corn sugar
(10%?). to lighten the malt. Or just do all malt. Williams brewing
has an American Red extract that looks like a promising candidate.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:22:28 -0600
From: Jeremy Lakey <Jeremy@imc2.com>
Subject: killed yeast question
last night, i was in a bit of a hurry and pitched in the yeast at 85-90f
degrees... it's White Labs Pitchable Hefeweizen yeast.. I thought it'd be
a bit warm, but shouldn't kill it.. Well, 12 hours later nothing... not
even positive pressure.. My question is this, the wort has cooled now to
around 78f, can i pitch some more yeast with out any trouble?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:47:52 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote@mindspring.com>
Subject: Post for The Ozzies/Anti-Seize
Hi All,
Recently, I toured an electronics (computers, televisions, phone equipment
and the like) recycling facility. It's where all our "old" Neanderthal
computer equipment (hopefully) goes. You know, ancient stuff that's been
around like four years or so. Anyway, I'm minding my own business when I
spy a Gaylord box of video tapes. I pick up one totally at random and
begin to look at the label on it. Wouldn't you know, it was about BEER. I
took it home as a momento of the tour.
By the title, I figured it was an industry tape. So... last night, I
popped it in the VCR (you know, those antiquated things that will also be
thrown out soon). I'm sure the Ozzies will know all about CUB. The tape
was of an industry presentation to beer distributors in Oz. Several CUB
officials were shown coming out to the podium to spout off about how great
their new product is--Cold. "There's nothing fresher than a coldie."
For those not familiar with what a Coldie is, it's the Ozzie counterpart to
MGD--cold ultra-filtered, non-pasteurized. It's described as a "bitter",
although I wonder if it really is. It seems that everything, if it is to
sell in Oz, needs to be called a "bitter". It was very interesting to
watch as brewery officials gave the inside scoop concerning the
"revolutionary" brewing process that would give CUB the one-up on the
competition. The presentation went on to describe marketing strategies,
packaging presentation, product branding, point of sale promotion, CUB
clothing, TV advertizing, etc. It was a very interesting inside look at
how a large brewing concern develops and markets a product.
That video presentation has me so hyped that I'll just do anything to get
my hands wrapped around a Coldie. "Must have Coldie, must have Coldie,
now. Loosing my will to ..." The only problem is I've never seen any
stateside.
Now for something homebrew related...
Recently, I installed a bi-metallic dial thermometer on my mash tun. It's
screwed into a half union welded to a converted Sanke. I wrapped some
teflon tape on the male threds and threaded it into the union with a
wrench. My intention was to screw it in until it was right side up. You
know, so the numbers and the logo on the dial were easily readable without
having to tilt your head one way or the other. It would make it look real
cool to see that TREND logo right side up and everything. As things were
going along, it began to tighten. I needed only another half turn to get
it right side up. Of couse, I kept going. It stopped turning short of my
goal. No problem, I'll just back it off a bit. Nothing doing, it was
stuck big time. I even broke my 7/8 in. open-end wrench in the attempt.
So, I now have a dial that's upside down--PERMANENTLY.
A friend recently gave me some food grade anti-seize (a bit late now). I
know that stainless to stainless interface can gaul. This must be a
textbook example. My question to the group is regarding this food grade
anti-seize. Has anyone ever used any? It is Okay to use for brewing
applications? Heat limits? Will it do any harm? Will it ruin head
retention? It was given to me in a 35mm film canister, so I don't have
orignal packaging. It is white in color and has the consistency of grease.
It has very little odor.
TIA,
Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:31:41 -0500
From: "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards@hotmail.com>
Subject: sanitation technique questions
I was wondering how many of us use a bathtub to do most of our
sanitizing. Ever since I started brewing almost 5 years ago I've been using
a bathtub for all the sanitizing vessels (fill, stand, drain) on brew day,
even though my brew site has switched from the kitchen to the outdoors.
Does anyone else do this? How does everyone dispose of the sanitizer
if you brew outdoors (I don't think dumping iodophor, bleach, etc. on the
driveway/lawn is such a good idea!)? I'm hoping to get some new ideas on
how to streamline the brewing process. Thanks!
Oh- another quick question - does everybody just allow sanitized
items to drip dry or do people use paper towels (or something else) to dry
vessels, instruments, etc.?
Benjy
rdbedwards@hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:01:26 -0800
From: "John W. Myer" <myer@apple.com>
Subject: Hopback Design Questions
I am a first time poster, but have been reading the HBD postings for
about a month.
I am building a RIMS system and am now at the point of adding a hopback
to my system. From the kettle, I will be pumping the wort slowly from
the kettle and into the hopback which is then connected to my counterflow
chiller. The hopback is:
1. 16" long stainless steel pipe sitting vertically
2. 3 1/2" diameter
3. one end capped and the other end is also capped but has a 2" threaded
brass plug
4. 1 " from the bottom end is a 1/2" female ss pipe fitting
|| 2" brass plug with inlet from pump which is attached to
kettle outlet
_+ +_
| || |= extra outlet - plugged
| || |
| || |
| || | {{ My sorry attempt at an ascii illustration}}
| || |
| || |
| || |
| || |= outlet to cf chiller
- --------
The 2" brass plug has a 1/2 ' brass inlet pumbed into it. I am planning
on inserting a brass screen filter (cylindical in shape) through the 2"
opening for the ength of the pipe. The hops will be placed in the middle
of the filter and the hot wort will enter through the inlet at the top
and
exit through the outlet at the bottom.
Questions to which I would love to have responses:
1. Hop Contact Time -- What flow rate throught the hopback should I shoot
for to get the best hop aroma characteristics? Gravity flow into the
hopback/cf chiller to the fermentor would be too slow, bu t I am assuming
that full pump speed would be too fast .
2. Hop Filter Size -- My kettle is 13.3 gal and my batch size will be 10
gal. How big should I design the brass screen filter which will contain
the whole hops. My max would be 2 1/4" dia by 16 inches which
would be 64 of a total 154 cu inches in the vessel.
3. Filter Mesh -- What filter mesh would be best: 40, 60 80 100, other?
There should be little cold break at this time since the wort is still at
boiling
temp. Any ideas.
4. Different Approach -- Or -- Would it better to switch the inlet and
outlet and put the hops in the larger volume outside of the filter?
Any thoughts?
I know that the best answer to the above is to experiment, but hopefully
someone has "been here / done this" already. BTW - my system has
lots of gadgets and when I saw this ss vessel for $20, I could not help
myself. I HAD to add thehopback.
Thanks in advance,
John Myer - a newbie to the group
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:09:04 -0800
From: Chad Petersen <Chad.Petersen@wwu.edu>
Subject: Graham
Phil, That was a brilliant set of tricks you played on Graham and I laughed
most heartily. I for one am glad I am not on your Fecal Roster.
Father Chad
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:28:57 -0600
From: "Sweeney, David" <David@studentlife.tamu.edu>
Subject: Screen vs. Screen
> I purchased a Sabco (NAJASCYYY) false bottom a year ago. It's the
> stainless jobbie split in half with hinges and a hole for a dip-tube. It
> fits in the bottom of a converted keg perfectly. I've been very happy
> with it, using it primarily as a hop catcher in my boiler.
>
> In my converted Sanke keg RIMS system, I've been using a homemade manifold
> out of SS sheathing that is similar to the EasyMasher(R) (NAYYY). My RIMS
> uses a centered dip-tube with a magnetic driven pump, vertical heating
> manifold and a reverse-star return manifold ala C.D. Pritchard. I haven't
> been happy with the flowrate of my homemade exit manifold, and so shopped
> around for another false bottom. The Sabco FB is kindof a cadillac ($69 +
> shipping). I came across a 10" stainless screen in the Beer, Beer & More
> Beer (NAYYY) catalog for $19 so I thought I would try it.
>
> So now, I have a 15" Sabco hinged FB and a 10" SS screen from B3. My kegs
> have a curved bottom. The foundation water under the Sabco is about 0.5
> USgal, while the volume under the 10" screen should be about 1 USpint.
> Here's the question:
>
> Should I used the 10" screen in my RIMS (for recirculation), or in the
> boiler (to catch hop flowers)? Why?
>
> David Sweeney
> Texas A&M University
> david@studentlife.tamu.edu
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:30:28 -0500
From: "Moyer, Douglas (IndSys, SalemVA)" <Douglas.Moyer@indsys.ge.com>
Subject: Beer in Hong Kong?
Drinkers,
I will be in Hong Kong next week for the TOC Asia 2001. Any decent
beer? Any recommendations on where to get a good pint? I will be staying at
the Renaissance Harbor View, arriving Monday, leaving Friday morning.
Brew on!
Doug Moyer
Salem, VA
Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:29:43 -0600
From: "Sweeney, David" <David@studentlife.tamu.edu>
Subject: Irony
Ironic, isn't it, that one of the most prolific, detailed, verbose,
science-minded, exact contributors to the HBD has a signature consisting of
2 characters. I think I'll start doing that.
-D
PS Don't change a thing, Steve.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:32:14 +1100
From: scott morgan <scott.morgan@aus.sun.com>
Subject: The Graham Experiment
Dont fall for Phils trickery folks...its but a ploy by Phil to drag
Graham back onto the HBD.
Dave is innocent and this is all sham, trickery and fraud. Dave created
the pond in which we all play...Phil knows what will happen if joins
into the OZ-CB, he will no longer be the sole village idiot but just one
of many who are also subscribed to the oz-cb.
In Japan it is called the Aussie Koala bear syndrome. You see, usually
in Oz we have lots of koala's, and run over them occasionally for sport.
But take one to Japan and the flea-bitten beast is never put down.
Constantly cuddled and admired the ego grows....just like our Phil.
"He packed up his bat and ball, announcing he no longer wanted to be a
small
fish in a big pond, but rather a big fish in a little pond! "
as phil knows this pond is getting bigger everyday and we are just
rolling along. As well, some of these fella's are from kiwi and Sth
African ranks; the "stubbies and thongs" dress code is only exclusive in
Burradoo it seems.
"So now he stands
at the pulpit in front of a huddled group of Aussie brewers and rants
and
raves and bullshytes to them as he once did in here."
You see, like any coach he gets passionate about the game. I thought you
would understand this Phil, especially with Mardi Gra coming up and you
being the coach of the Ansett Trolley Dolly MArching Team. (I hope the
Bush Tucker Man theme you choose works well...glistening bodies in
khaki...cant wait) Pure passion is what it is about.
Well hot diggity damm...no beer related comment at all. Thats 4 posts in
a row...but who is counting right!
scotty
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:45:13 -0600
From: "Sweeney, David" <David@studentlife.tamu.edu>
Subject: RE: HBD on Avantgo
I, too, received the size error when I defined the web page. "Size Limit
Exceeded. The requested file's size is too large to be sent to this device.
FYI, I'm using a Palm IIIx with 4MB RAM. Any other thoughts?
David Sweeney
Texas A&M University
david@studentlife.tamu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:10:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Drew Beechum <Drew.Beechum@disney.com>
Subject: 2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Competition
Hello Brewers,
This is the formal announcement of the 2001 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire
Competition. Further information and entry forms can be found on our
website http://www.maltosefalcons.com/.
All beer classes will be accepted as listed in the Maltose Falcons 2001
Style Guideline form. While based closely on the current BJCP guidelines there
are some class differences. Of special note to any cider makers, we've
separated ciders from meads and sake. We hope this change allows our
cider entries a more fair evaluation.
Thank you,
Drew Beechum
Maltose Falcons
Public Relations/Webmaster
For more information visit - http://www.maltosefalcons.com/
NOTICE OF COMPETITION
2001 Mayfaire Regional Homebrewed Beer Competition
(AHA and BJCP Sanctioned)
Sponsored by: The Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society
Results will be used in the Sierra Nevada Homebrewer Of The Year
Contest
Entry Deadline: Entries, forms, and fees are due between March 1 -
March 20, 2001
Change for this year: Recipes will be optional, not required
Entry Fee: $6.00 per entry, check or money order only, payable to the
Maltose Falcons
Entry Format : 3 - 10-16 oz. brown or green bottles, clean of labels
and distingushing marks (Barleywines and Meads are accepted in 7oz and above).
Walk-in (Shop Closed on Weds.) or send prepaid to:
The Maltose Falcons
c/o The Home Wine, Beer and Cheese Making Shop
22836 Ventura Blvd. #2
Woodland Hills, CA 91364
Judging: Saturday, April 7, 2001,
St. Martin's Church
7136 Winnetka
Canoga Park, CA
Awards Ceremony: At the Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Festival, Saturday,
April 21, 2001
AWARDS
Best of Show: "The Bird", a statuette of the Maltose Falcon "Hashell
Dammit"
First, Second, and Third Place ribbons may be awarded in each beer
style Class, Subject to the decisions of the judges. All judges
decisions are final.
Check our website for more information :
http://www.maltosefalcons.com/
For further information, or entry forms, contact John Aitchison,
Competition Organizer
Email: john.aitchison@homebeer.com
Phone : 818-886-3568
For Judging information, contact Tom Wolf
Email: Tom@WolfEmail.com
Phone : 661-296-0872
For Stewarding information, contact Diana Utech
Email: dutech@netscape.net
Phone : 310-398-2558
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:24:40 -0500
From: "Mike Maag" <maagm@rica.net>
Subject: Re: Millennium Ale
Colin Marshall <byoah@argay.com.au> is looking for a
Dominion Millennium Ale clone.
I don't have a recipe, but I did get this information off
their website. www.olddomonion.com
Go to "Brewery" , "seasonals".
"Dominion Millennium is a very strong ale brewed in the English
Barley Wine style. The bottle contains a slight
sediment because some fermentation occurs in the bottle.
This bottle conditioning allows the beer to improve over time.
We use only imported English malts and pure Virginia honey.
The distinct hopping includes Mount Hood, Perle and Liberty
hops in the kettle. The beer is generously dry-hopped with
English Kent Goldings (a half pound per barrel) to provide an
earthy bouquet. Technical notes: Starting Gravity 1.100 or 25
degrees Balling. Bitterness Units: 100.
Sold in 12 ounce bottles and in kegs. Alcohol by volume 10.4%."
They use their house strain of Wyeast 1056 (Chico, Sierra Nevada)
mostly.
There is a section on the website for directing questions to
the brewery. I would recommend a email to the brewmaster for
some homebrewing hints to duplicate it.
This brewery has been producing some world class brews.
Michael Jackson gives them mention in "Ultimate Beer".
As I type this, I am sipping a Millenium bottled Feb 1998.
The flavor from the smoked malt is just mellowing out.
This stuff is definitely meant to be "laid down" for several
years.
As a starting point, unless you can get some info from the
Brewmaster, I would use my favorite barleywine recipe, substitute
the hops and yeast noted above, and add peat smoked malt
and honey to taste. Try to get an idea of how strong your smoked
malt is. They vary by brand and age. I bet you will come pretty
close to the original. The smoked malt almost overpowers other
aspects of the ale for a couple years, if you lilghten-up on the
smoked malt, it might be more drinkable sooner.
Hope this helps
Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley, VA
Buddy you're an old man poor man
Pleadin' with your eyes gonna make you some beer some day
You got mud on your face
You big disgrace
Somebody better put you back in your place
WE Will, We Will, Rock You
Brian May/Freddy Mercury (Queen)
(listen to the live version, I swear that's what he says)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:19:30 EST
From: WilfPhoenix@aol.com
Subject: Re:beer in Ireland(February 13, 2001)
from Wilf Phoenix Manchester UK...wilfphoenix@aol.com
well Nathan Tell your friends to stick to Guinness_its the real original
irish stout - some pubs sell it in bottles thats nice ,the draught is now
always "chilled" which is still something for all us homebrewers to aim at
Regards - Wilf Phoenix
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:11:57 -0600
From: "elvira toews" <etoews1@home.com>
Subject: Q. for Steve Alexander on overnight mashing
Steve:
Your answers to a range of questions on mash-outs etc. make sense to this
engineer. I have to deal with people who believe that 121C is a magic
temperature that is both necessary and sufficient for sterility, even when
we are trying to kill a pure culture of an organism that dies after a few
minutes at 60C, so I feel kinship with anyone who gets cranky about dogma as
a substitute for understanding.
I use overnight mashing because it makes brewing fit my life. I mash in or
boost to the traditional temperatures (151F for high attenuation, 156F for
low attenuation). When I mash out the next morning the temperature is
around 120-130F. I usually keep my OG low, 1044 is typical. I would like
to know what you think about:
1) what is a better guide to sweetness and mouth feel - FG or %attenuation?
In other words, if my beer finishes at 1011, would it taste more like a beer
with 1055OG/1011FG or like 1055OG/1014FG?
2) should I mash in a few degrees hotter to compensate for the lack of
temperature maintenance? I confess that I have never dragged my butt out of
bed at 1:00 a.m. to see what the temperature is after 2 hours.
Sean Richens
srichens@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 14:59:40 +1100
From: David Lamotte <lamotted@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Burradoo Apology
No, not from Phil, but from me.
I have discovered that you cannot access the photo using the URL in my
previous post.
You will need to go to the oz Craftbrewer site and use the link on the
'News & Events' page.
Sorry for any confusion or dissapointment.
David
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:41:12 -0500
From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98@hotmail.com>
Subject: Gott Coolers
I have been looking for a Gott cooler to use for a Mash Tun for a couple of
weeks. I have found several Rubbermaid coolers at K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Lowes,
etc.
The question I have is, are all Rubbermaid coolers Gott coolers?
I realize that Rubbermaid bought out Gott back around 88 or 89.
The coolers I have found all look like the pictures I have seen of Gott
coolers (bright orange cylindrical form, with screw on white top), but do
not specifically state they are for cold and HOT liquid. They only state
that they are for cold liquid. Will these coolers work for hot liquid? Or,
are there two different product lines and I have found the wrong one?
Thanks
Steven - Ironhead Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:49:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Rama Roberts <rama@eng.sun.com>
Subject: dunkelweizen color
I've been trying to put together a dunkel weizen recipe, but am having
trouble finding a suitable source of color.
My base recipe is
2lbs 6-row
5lbs wheat malt
2lbs munich dark
It seems that munich dark is the historical grain of choice for adding
color, but at 15L, I would need to add so much that my OG would be out of
acceptable range.
I was thinking about adding 1/4 lb. black patent malt to bring the color
up, but am concerned about any flavor it would impart that wouldn't be
appropriate for the style.
Dark wheat malt isn't available from my preferred vendor, if that was a
possibility.
Any suggestions on getting the color there in a manner that's true to the
style? Feel free to hack the recipe if I'm going about it all wrong.
- --rama
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3558, 02/16/01
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