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HOMEBREW Digest #3562
HOMEBREW Digest #3562 Wed 21 February 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
***************************************************************
THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
Millenium Bitterness ("A. J.")
disposal of cleaning agents ("Phillipa")
Schwartzbier dark malt ("Paul Smith")
RE: The underattenuation blues ("J. Doug Brown")
Re: polution concerns.... (b r)
RE: Pollution Concerns ("Max Brandenberger")
Thermometer Calibration (Richard Foote)
Re: Dark malts in Schwarzbier (jal)
chillzilla ("Joseph Marsh")
Correction Re: Old Speckled Hen (Jeff Renner)
cooler/warmer.... (Jeremy Lakey)
re: Pollution Concerns ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
Guinness et al ("Bridges, Scott")
Darkening a Dunkle/Schwarz ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
Re: The underattenuation blues ("Daniel C Stedman")
Stuck Sparge (cmmundt)
BJCP exam schedule ("Dave Sapsis")
BOSS Competition (david.persenaire)
Aussie beer recipes (TOLLEY Matthew)
Re: Pollution Concern (Travis Dahl KE4VYZ)
Diacetyl - what is it? (Craig MacFarlane)
fermented pepsi (acez)
Recipe - Old Speckled Hen (Len Dmochowski)
re: APA help ("Bob")
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
*
* Bluebonnet Brew-Off Entry Deadline is 2/25/01!
* http://welcome.to/bluebonnet for more information
*
* Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/17/01!
* http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information
*
* Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Entry Deadline is 3/20/01!
* http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 05:57:40 +0000
From: "A. J." <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Millenium Bitterness
Someone asked a week or so ago about the bitterness of Old Dominion's
Millenium. I wanted some photos of the measurement process, found a
bottle of the 1997 and so measured that. The result: 58 BU. The photos
are at http://members3.clubphoto.com/aj258779/Demo_Album/.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:45:32 +1100
From: "Phillipa" <backcrk@tpg.com.au>
Subject: disposal of cleaning agents
G'day all,
In a recent digest Benjamin Edwards discusses the disposal of our cleaning
and sanitising chemicals and rightly points out the environmental concerns.
He suggests that they should not be dumped down the stormwater, on the lawn
or down the drain. This does rather limit the disposal options. The
precedence has been set by anyone with a kid who soaks laundry in bleach,
napisan and other caustic cleaners that goes straight down the sewer.
Dishwashers also use highly caustic cleaners and that goes down the sewer.
Benjamin Edwards has highlighted a problem but now we need to find a
solution which is not limited to homebrewing but the whole household.
I throw my bleach solution and bottle wash solution on a different patch of
ground each time I brew. We have had very little rain for the last three
months and the plants are grateful for any moisture at all.
I remember reading that bleach does break down over time and exposure to
sunlight. If your grass is dying, store your used bleach solution prior to
disposal in an open bucket in the sun for a few days before throwing on the
lawn.
If anyone has any further suggestions on appropriate disposal techniques?
Cheers
Phillipa
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 06:22:42 -0600
From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin1@msn.com>
Subject: Schwartzbier dark malt
Dave - I'd suggest the Carafa line of malts from Weyermann. These are
roasted malts that are dehusked prior to kilning. They provide as deep a
color as you want, a wonderful roast/coffee character, with none of the
associated acrid taste as, say, black patent. There are three grades -
Carafa III is the darkest, and comes in 600 L (typically). Because it is a
"smooth" malt, I think you can really push the flap with its use and not
have to worry about phenolics or harshness, as with other color malts - I
have a friend who used over 10% in his schwartzbier, and it was great!
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:35:36 -0500
From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown@citynet.net>
Subject: RE: The underattenuation blues
paul Shick writes:
> The mash tun thermometer seems
> accurate, reading the same as the hot liquor tank and the
> kettle, both of which were calibrated with boiling water
> or wort.
Paul,
I'm assuming that by this statement you are implying that you may have
calibrated your thermometers with boiling wort... Wort boiling happens
at a significantly higher temperature than boiling water. Hopefully you
measured SG of wort then looked up the boiling point of a sugar solution
of the same SG for calibrating with wort, or easier just calibrated with
boiling water at 212F @sea level.
Just my 32, err 34 cents :-)
Doug Brown
J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV
Software Engineer @ ProLogic, Inc.
mailto:dougbrown@citynet.net mailto:dbrown@prologic-inc.com
http://members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug http://www.prologic-inc.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 04:50:06 -0800 (PST)
From: b r <d94017@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: polution concerns....
When properly used for brewing sanitation, these
chemicals will pose no ill effects to the environment.
I hate to say this, but this is more of the usual
liberal scare tactics.
You know we probably shouldn't drink beer either, the
gas we expel will deteriorate the ozone layer!
The only way to reverse the ill effects of "chemicals"
on the environment is to reduce the population on this
overpopulated planet.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:46:33 -0600
From: "Max Brandenberger" <maxb@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Pollution Concerns
For those of you who are concerned about polluting the environment with
substances such as chlorine in our disinfecting agents, let me make the
following suggestions:
1.) Go out to your front yard, dig up your sewage line, and cap it. You
don't want the chlorine in your TAP WATER to cause undue harm to the
environment.
2.) While you have the hole in the front yard, reroute your water line to
the nearest stream, pond, or river so you can supply your house with fresh,
un-chlorinated water.
3.) Call your HMO or insurance provider and ask them how many intravenous
antibiotic treatments you are allowed to have per year for infections such
as cholera and typhoid fever.
4.) Oh, and I almost forgot, call the EPA every time you brew beer and ask
them to declare your garage a superfund site so they can come out and remove
the gallon or so of water that is laced with the toxic disinfecting agents.
Max Brandenberger
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:56:13 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote@mindspring.com>
Subject: Thermometer Calibration
My Fellow Brewers,
I recently installed (as you may have read) a bi-metallic dial thermometer
in my mash/lauter tun (aka, converted Sanke). I have used it to brew once
thus far and have concerns as to its accuracy. It has an adjustment screw
in the back. My glass lab thermomoter reads some degrees different than
it. What's the proper method for calibrating? In adjusting it, I also
want to make sure my lab thermometer is accurate.
TIA,
Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:52:20 -0600 (CST)
From: jal@novia.net
Subject: Re: Dark malts in Schwarzbier
Dave in Voctoria, BC, asks about Schwartzbier:
>While we're on the topic of what malts to use to darken
>a dunkelweizen... what's the consensus on Schwarzbier?
>BJCP discusses "supplemented by a small amount of
>roasted malts for the dark color and subtle roast flavors".
>So how much and what variety do people tend to use. I
>used about 100g (4/5ths chocolate, 1/5 patent) in a 23L
>batch with a little (25g) of Special-B. The main grist was
>about 50% Munich.
>The flavour of the wort, post-boil, was about what I expected,
>but the colour was definately a little light. Not very black.
>More like dunkel in colour (translucent brown).
I have never brewed a Schwartzbier, and I've tasted precious few, but I'll give
you my understanding of the style.
The traditional grain bill is mostly Munich malt, darkened further with German
Karafe malt, a mild sort of roasted malt with little or no sharp flavor. I've
used this malt, and you should be able to use 200 grams (or more) in your 23-
litre batch to get the color you want with a pleasant dryness. If your local
shop doesn't carry Karafe, you should be able to get it mail order. I know
Steinbart's in Portland has carried it in the past.
The Speical B, while an intersting addition, is not to style for a Schwartzbier.
Hope this helps.
Jim Larsen
Omaha
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:59:52 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62@hotmail.com>
Subject: chillzilla
Scott says chillzilla is not a good product. That is incorrect. I bought one
and it cools my wert as fast as I can get it thru there with a trickle of
water. I haven't had a single stoppage except one time a hop bag got stuck
over the pickup tube after I'd knocked off my strainer.
My only connection with Great Fermentations is my friendship with them and
the many hours of beer talk I and many others enjoy there.
Thankyou Anita for all your help and advice,
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:13:13 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Correction Re: Old Speckled Hen
Brewers
Several HBDers questioned my citation of Protz's Real Ale Almanac
entry for Moreland's Old Speckled Ale. The problem was that I
screwed up in my transcription. (Hey - I figure it's better to have
screwed up than never to have ... well, you know. Wink, wink, nudge,
nudge). I apparently copied from entries for several other of their
beers.
Anyway, Bruce Garner's citation was correct, as was H. Dowda's
citation from Protz's "Brew Your Own ...". I should have known that
1.035 was too low for this ale, which is a strong ale (by British
standards).
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:27:40 -0600
From: Jeremy Lakey <Jeremy@imc2.com>
Subject: cooler/warmer....
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/ColemanCom/prod_Detail.asp?Product_id=5615-80
7&CategoryID=8570&SourcePage=PRODBRANDLIST.ASP&SubmittingPage=Prod_subcatego
ry.asp
not associated with coleman, blah blah blah, but i'm thinking about playing
around with one of these bad boys for either mashing or cooling... Looks
very nice
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:37:11 -0500
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: re: Pollution Concerns
Benjy wrote of pollution concerns:
>I urge those of you who dump your sanitizing agent (whether it be
>iodophor, bleach, etc.) onto your lawn, the driveway, or some other place
>outdoors (even a storm sewer) to please consider your actions. The
>chemicals are toxic and damage the environment, as well as pollute
>groundwater. Moreover, dumping chemicals in such a way is in violation of
>the federal Clean Water Act.
The Clean Water Act, along with the Federal Water Pollution Control Act
gives the EPA the authority to set effluent standards on an industry basis
as well sets water quality standards for contaminants in surface waters. It
is pointed at the industries who produce, transport, store, treat or dispose
of toxic wastes. It is not meant to be applied to */normal/* household
effluence. I think a few ounces of bleach or other commonly used sanitizer
meets that criteria. However, if someone is dumping formaldehyde or
trichoroethane, I think there is cause for concern by the state DEP.
For more info on the CWA try:
http://www.epa.gov/region5/defs/html/cwa.ht
http://www4.law.cornell.edu/uscode/unframed/33/ch26.html
> As brewers we should be mindful of our environment and the delicate
>balance of the ecosystem.
Not just being a brewer, but I would think that being someone who has to
live in this world would be enough to make you a little more considerate of
what you dump into it. I don't worry so much about where I live now since
we have public sewer. My 1/2 oz per gallon of bleachwater or 12.5 ppm
iodophor are effective enough sanitizers which will not overburgen the
treatement facility in such limited quantities. However, I may be moving
into an area which uses septic and a well. I don't want to mess up my
septic system with sanitizers and I also don't want to dump them in my back
yard to leach into the well (if it's a shallow one). I also don't want to
dump sanitizers or detergents in the storm drains (read: rural road drainage
ditch) because it may eventually work it's way into my favorite trout
streams. Hey, it's rare to find crystal clear water in NJ ;-) So what do I
do?
As for the environmental groups... go hug a tree! ;-)
Carpe cerevisiae!
Glen A. Pannicke
glen@pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net
75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD
"Designs which work well on paper rarely do so in actual practice"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:58:30 -0500
From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges@sc.slr.com>
Subject: Guinness et al
Jeff Renner writes:
>But I will. Don't limit yourself to Guinness. It's a great beer,
>but I preferred the slightly more chocolatey, perhaps less sharp
>flavor of Murphy's. It is not as universally available as Guinness,
>but in the south and west (it's brewed in cork), you should be able
>to find it, and typically for 20p less a pint. When I could find it,
>it was my choice, but when only Guinness was available, I wasn't at
>all unhappy. The third national Irish stout, Beamish, also brewed in
>Cork, didn't suit my palate. I found it thin and unbalanced. But as
>A.J. wrote, "de gustibus non disputandem est."
Jeff,
I couldn't agree with you more. I have also compared the 3 traditional
Irish stouts. I've had all three in Ireland, but not all at the same time.
A while back I had an Irish coworker/friend who brought back samples of all
three one time after a visit home, and we did an unofficial taste test.
Please no comments about the lack of scientific approach. I freely admit to
not being a scientist. However, my taste buds clearly prefer Murphys. As
you stated, I'm never unhappy to be drinking Guinness, but I'll take Murphys
every time if I have a choice. Beamish runs a distant third in my book as
well. My friend from Dublin's response to my findings.... "you're entitled
to your opinion."
I am pleased to find another person with the same opinion of the 3 stouts.
It's usually considered sacrilege to say that Guinness is not the best stout
in the world. I consider myself to be in good company.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:05:23 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: Darkening a Dunkle/Schwarz
Dave asks about Darkening Dunkles & Schwarzbiers:
Consider the Carafa de-husked colour malts - perfect for Schwarzbiers and
black lagers. For the Dunkle, consider Chocolate and Caramel Wheat malts.
Weyermann makes some.
I just brewed up a nice Stout Porter using no roasted barley, just Carafa
III: I used 900gms in a 50L batch. It darkened it opaque, without imparting
any astringent roasted bite. Very mellow and smooth.
You could use far less in a Schwarzbier, and would be able to darken it
without affecting flavour, about 100gms in 23L should give an opaque black.
Hope this was useful,
Stephen Ross
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:31:51 -0600
From: "Daniel C Stedman" <"daniel_c_stedman"@uhc.com>
Subject: Re: The underattenuation blues
Hmmm... That is a tough one. I have a couple of ideas, though.
First, I have seen problems in my own fermentations when CO2 builds up. More in
cider than in beer (which can get VERY supersaturated), but if you are filtering
out all of the break material and hops then you may have the same problem. I
also think that waiting until the fermentation has stopped before shaking the
CO2 out is a mistake - the yeasties are probably in pretty poor shape by then.
Just give your fermenter a good rousing in the morning and evening for the first
few days of fermentation and you should be OK. While you don't want to oxidize
the heck out of it, oxidation shouldn't be much of a problem if you have the CO2
pouring out of the wort.
Second, try calibrating your thermos at ~150 F by buying a glass lab thermo,
which are very accurate & cheap, and heating up some water in the kitchen to 150
(as measured by your glass thermo). Then when you brew be sure to double check
that your mash temp is what it is supposed to be with the glass thermo.
Third, your conical fermenter might be a problem. Why don't you send it to me
for evaluation & try fermenting in a couple of buckets for a while. I'll inspect
it and return it to you sometime in November.
Dan in Minnetonka
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:55:39 -0500
From: cmmundt@AircraftBraking.com
Subject: Stuck Sparge
I have a question about stuck sparges. I have been doing single infusion
mashes and a step infusion mash with some success. I was feeling confident
enough in my all-grain brewing (having a whopping 5 all-grain attempts) to
try a decoction mash to make a dunkles bock. I have been extracting about
65-66% of the fermentable sugars from the grains. I know that a decoction
mash will give a higher extraction efficiency, but I did not know how much
higher. I calculated my grain bill (if this beer turns out, I will post
the recipe) based on 70% efficiency and proceeded with the mash. I did a
triple decoction mash with very little difficulty, it took a while but
effort on my part was less than I expected. I was very careful not to
introduce any hot side aeration or cold side aeration.
I started the sparging and after about 7-8 minutes I had a clear run
off, this is much faster than I typically get a clear run off. But, after
extracting about 1.5 gallons the sparge was stuck. I unstuck it, but
throughout the sparging it kept getting stuck. My initial guess as to why
it was happening, in hindsight of course, was my flow rate. I think I was
sparging too fast (I am not sure of actual flow rates). This was the rate
I typically sparge at, but with the grains much more gelatinized and
generally softer, I think it compacted the bed too much. I was wondering
if anybody out there has any other ideas. Next time, I will be sure to
contain my anxiousness towards getting the wort and sparge at least 1/2 the
speed.
One other side note about the process. I collected the sparge and
measure OG before the boil and I had an OG = 1.070 for 7.5 gallons giving
me an efficiency of extraction rate at over 90%. Seeing the noticeable
increase in gravity over my original plan I changed my hopping schedule to
make a dobble bock instead of the dunkel. Next time, I will use much less
grain.
Chad Mundt
cmmundt@aircraftbraking.com
in Wadsworth, OH
(just W of Akron and about 200 miles ESE of Rennarian [0,0])
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:15:08 -0800
From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis@earthlink.net>
Subject: BJCP exam schedule
Good folks,
Time for the periodic post alerting any potential examinees of the current
BJCP exam schedule.
The first half of 2001 has a number of exams spread out (including Central
Canada!) so please contact the listed sponsor if you are interested. As
always, this schedule is maintained at the web site:
http://www.mv.com/ipusers/slack/bjcp/examsch.html
2/24 Downers Grove, IL Steve McKenna (630) 305-0554
Email: mckennst@earthlink.net
3/3 Cheyenne, WY Paul Dey (307) 635-9481
alldey@uswest.net
March?? Urbandale, Iowa Jackie Rager (913) 894-9131
E-Mail : jrager@swbell.net
3/10 San Francisco, CA Russ Wigglesworth 707-769-0425
RussWig@aol.com
3/23 Irving, TX Al Kinchen 972-241-4986
Email: alkinchen@aol.com
4/13 Juneau, AK Marcy Larson 907-780-5866
Email: info@alaskanbeer.com
4/21 Beavercreek, OH Gordon Strong 937-429-2953
strongg@earthlink.net
4/22 New Orleans, LA Warren Chigoy, Jr. (504) 443-4244
Email: wacjr@ix.netcom.com
4/19 De Pere, WI Michael Conard Evening Phone: (920) 388-2728
Email: mconard@itol.com
5/4 Raleigh, NC Larry Matthews 919-362-9407
Email: lmatt@ipass.net
5/6 Calgary, Alberta Brian Read 403-245-9159
Email: at readbd@home.com.
5/12 Cincinnati, OH Jeff Seeley Evening Phone: (513) 231-6062
Email: infuser@earthlink.net
5/20 Orlando, FL Ron Bach (407) 696-2738
Email: bachian@juno.com
6/2 Madison, WI Colin P. Crowley 608-271-6095
E-mail: crowley@cae.wisc.edu
6/3 Malvern, PA Peter Schaut Evening Phone: (610) 889-0905
Email: BrewIPA@aol.com
Cheers,
David Sapsis
BJCP Western Exam Director
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:30:48 -0600
From: david.persenaire@abnamro.com
Subject: BOSS Competition
Brewers Of South Suburbia (BOSS) Chicago Cup Challenge Homebrew Contest
deadline is
3/30/2001. This is a leg in the Midwest Homebrewer of the Year competition.
For details: www.megsinet.net/~bethke/boss/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 10:10:46 +1100
From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley@atsic.gov.au>
Subject: Aussie beer recipes
>If anyone knows of any recipies (preferably using kits/extract) for beers
>like: James Boag Premium, Carlton Crown Lager, Victoria Bitter, Cascade
>Premium, Coopers Sparkling Ale etc. It would be much appreciated.
Hi Aussie Brewer
Have a look at these sites:
http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/webcontent40.asp
http://www.homebrew.com.au/recipes.htm
http://www.brewcraft.com.au/recipe_lookalikes_list.html
Cheers
...Matt...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:15:57 -0500
From: Travis Dahl KE4VYZ <dahlt@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Pollution Concern
Well, I live with an environmental engineer, so I felt obligated to
query her on all of this. What follows is a loose summary.
The federal Clean Water Act does not specifically address Bleach,
Iodophor, etc. In fact it was aimed at large industrial users of very
nasty things. (Sidenote: Don't live next to a dry cleaner's)
In the dilute concentrations we use them, these sanitizers are not a
problem for a waste water treatment plant. If you have a septic system,
they may cause a problem, however. The problems caused by laundry
detergents involve the surfactants present in most of these products.
Specific municipalities may have regulations regarding the dumping of
grey water on private property, but, again, the dilute concentrations
shouldn't have too adverse an effect on your lawn. (I wouldn't recommend
pouring it on the compost, might kill the little critters doing the
composting...)
Finally, _please_ don't dump it down the storm sewer! The water from
the storm drains is often routed directly to the local river, without
passing through the water treatment plant.
On a related note: I would imagine (and have heard supporting stories)
that other wastes from the brewing process make excellent
compost/fertilizers! I'm thinking of using this as one more excuse to brew
beer...:)
-Travis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:59:02 +0000
From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm@chemconnect.com>
Subject: Diacetyl - what is it?
Okay, with all the talk of diacetyl, I'll ask...
What is it?
How is it identified in the finished product?
From the answers I'll decide if I want it in my beer or not.
Thanks!
Craig
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 20:29:58 -0500
From: acez@mindspring.com
Subject: fermented pepsi
Hey guys,
I was drinking a pepsi and walking out of my biology lecture (where we
were talking about anaerobic organisms) and it hit me...try
fermenting some pepsi! So I went home and used some extra wine yeast
from the mead I have going right now and put about a quarter of the
pack in a 2 litter bottle about a quarter full and put it in the
cupboard. My friends and I watched over the next few days as it
bubbled and churned (like normal beer) and now it is somewhat clear
(you can see through the yellow haze) and it has a lot of dark foam
on top. You can see the yeast settled on the bottom. We opened it up
and it smells kind of citrus-like. It actually tastes pretty good (we
just took a sip). At least, from what we tasted, we could see mixing
it with some regular pepsi and having a pretty novel drink. I have
never heard of anyone doing this and my logic was simply this - lots
of sugar in pepsi...so lets get it fermented. There was obviously a
lot that occured. I would be interested to understand it in a better
light if some of you could enlighten me. Is there alcohol? How much
by volume do you think? I had previously been drinking out of the
bottle for a few days before adding the yeast, could that have
allowed for some off flavors, or the smell? I await your guys'
response, maybe I'll make a couple gallons next time.
Later,
Casey
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 21:41:29 -0500
From: Len Dmochowski <lenski@fuse.net>
Subject: Recipe - Old Speckled Hen
I formulated this recipe about four years ago and according to my notes
this brew was very similar to Old Speckled Hen. My original intention
of this recipe was to make a basic Pale Ale and used my Wyeast 1084
starter by accident...thus my Stout I made later the same day received
my Wyeast 1028 starter. Luckily, both brews were tasty. Anyway, this
recipe assumes 75% efficiency and the use of pellet hops. Here ya go:
Grain/Adjunct Bill:
7.25 lbs Muntons Pale Ale Malt
0.75 lbs 60L Muntons Crystal Malt
0.25 lbs Torrified Wheat
0.50 lbs Invert Sugar
Single Infusion Mash - 151F for 2 hours @ 1.35 qts/lb
Hop Bill:
Challenger: 6 HBU - 75 minute boil
EKG: 3 HBU - 15 minute boil
Challenger: 3 HBU - 15 minute boil
EKG: 5 HBU - 1 minute boil
Yeast: Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale - Primary and Secondary Fermentation @ 65F
Hope this helps.
Len
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:43:15 -0800
From: "Bob" <bsmntbrewr@home.com>
Subject: re: APA help
Brewers,
Mr. Larson responded to Mr. Renner's response to Mr.
Bratcher's (that's me) query regarding the history of APA:
<snip>
While I have no references at my disposal, I can correct a
couple of data
points here from personal experience:
New Albion started business in Sonoma, CA, in the late 70s.
I used to come home
to Sonoma County from college ca '78, driving through the
city of Sonoma to
pick a case of New Albion. I don't know when New Albion shut
its doors, but it
wasn't too long after that.
</snip>
To which I can now add:
New Albion Brewery in Sonoma opened in 1976. New Albion
closed in 1983. When New Albion closed, brewers Michael
Lovett and Don Barkley moved to Hopland and took up shop
with the newly opened Mendocino Brewing Company and helped
to found the new brewing company with their expertise, New
Albion's unique yeast strains, and some of the equipment
from New Albion Brewing as well.
Mr. Larson continued:
<snip>
Mendocino Brewing's founders are the same people who did New
Albion. I don't
have the names of the individuals involved, but I believe
they are still using
the same yeast.
</snip>
To which I can also now add:
>From MBC's web page - http://mendobrew.com/
The three original partners of Mendocino Brewing Company
(Michael Laybourn, Norman Franks and John Scahill) had been
homebrewers and beer lovers as a result of their exposure to
traditional ales and beers in Europe, and they believed that
Americans were ready for more flavorful brews. The three
formed a Limited Partnership in 1983, and the Mendocino
Brewing Company was born.
Mr. Larson continued to continue:
<snip>
As to whether New Albion Ale was an APA, I cannot say. (I
couldn't have told a
cascade from a cluster from an EKG in those days, and
wouldn't have known a
sack of Klages if it hit me over the head.) Sierra Nevada is
certainly the
archetype.
</snip>
If New Albion Ale was an APA I have no answer as yet. I
have contacted MBC with several questions and they
responded:
"Many thanks for your mail. I am forwarding it to Don who
is still with us
as our Master Brewer. Perhaps he will be able to help you."
I found an article from 1997 on Celebrator.com about Don
recreating the New Albion Ale for its 20th anniversary.
Although it is not in production it apparently is not lost.
Hopefully, Don will share some information with us on the
brew. From what little I have found, SNPA is indeed the
archetype. I have similarly contacted Steve Dressler for
any insights into it's birth. Last year Steve provided our
club with some pointers on reproducing SNPA. This info can
be found at http://hbd.org/starcity/descriptions.html#f you
may have to page down once or twice.
Many thanks to Jim and Jeff for responding. I'll post a
follow up if I receive any responses from Don and Steve.
Brew On!
Bob Bratcher
Roanoke, VA
Star City Brewers Guild
http://hbd.org/starcity
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #3562, 02/21/01
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