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HOMEBREW Digest #3529
HOMEBREW Digest #3529 Sat 13 January 2001
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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Contents:
alcohol as sanitizer ("Sean Richens")
CAMRA Cider Guide (kbooth)
who wants to be a millionaire? ("Sean Richens")
Vegemite (Tom smit)
Straining pellet hops (Tom smit)
Yeast and CO2 ("Stephen Alexander")
corn sugar vs dme (leavitdg)
Dimmer on motor (R.)" <rhampo@ford.com>
RMS (Nathan Kanous)
Dropping & EBUs ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
Hmmmmm.... (EFOUCH)
Re: Hop Pellets - Problems (Steve)
Re: New RIMS idea ?? (RobertJ)
Re: Various (Dan McFeeley)
Brew day from Hell (I can say hell can't I) ("Jim Bermingham")
Beer Engineer - Call for Articles (Jeffrey Donovan)
Whining (Danny Breidenbach)
Hop Pellets - Problems ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
Kegs - now or later? (Nathan Matta)
Appeasing Swmbo (Rod Prather)
Lager & Temperature, take 2 (Greg Owen)
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:21:54 -0600
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens@sprint.ca>
Subject: alcohol as sanitizer
I'm not a big believer in alcohols for sanitizing. They just kill wimpy
bugs. Alcohol's advantage is that you can use it on your own skin.
If you want to try it, and it gives you good results, I would have a few
remaining worries:
1- it only works effectively between 70% and 50% in water, so watch the
evaporation
2- if it's evaporating, you are breathing it (and the denaturants!)
3- spraying mists are even more easily ignited than vapours, and tend to
generate their own static. I would use all metal piping well-grounded so
you don't get a spark off a drain or something.
Sean Richens
srichens.spamsucks@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:13:00 -0400
From: kbooth <kbooth@waverly.k12.mi.us>
Subject: CAMRA Cider Guide
I've ordered my copy of the guide which costs $23.04 in US dollars when a check
is mailed to the UK. My wife and I hope to travel a bit in England next summer
and I hope to try some ciders in addition to much bitters, etc.. Maybe other
travelers might enjoy a copy.
cross posted with Dave's permissin (but not Pat's). I hope it is OK. cheers,
jim booth
Subject: New book: 'CAMRA's Good Cider Guide'
From: "David Matthews" <Dave.Matthews7@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 23:19:53 -0000
Dear Cider Fans,
After delays for various reasons outside my control, I can now make
CAMRA's Good Cider Guide available for sale by mail order.
The Guide comprises:
- 400 pages, illustrated with b/w photos and labels throughout.
- Details of over 100 UK cider producers and over 400 UK cider outlets,
organised by county, with clear county maps.
- 19 feature articles on all aspects of UK cider, plus cider in France,
Spain and the USA. The two USA articles have been written by Cider
Digest subscribers - Bob Capshew and John Ross - and there's also an
article by Cider Digest hero Andrew Lea.
I think that it is absolutely marvellous (for a first attempt!), and that
everybody should buy a copy, but I'm biased of course!
The cover price is 9.99 Pounds Sterling, and together with postage and
packing this makes the total price as follows:
Where you live Total Price (Pounds Sterling)
UK 12.01
Europe (outside the UK) 13.61
USA, Canada, S.Africa 15.89
Australia, N.Zealand 16.39
Please send full address details and cheques (payable to D.Matthews) or
cash to me at:
91 Black Oak Road, Cyncoed, Cardiff, CF23 6QW, UK.
Dave Matthews (Editor, CAMRA's Good Cider Guide)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:08:07 -0600
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens@sprint.ca>
Subject: who wants to be a millionaire?
Or at least a thousandaire. Or at least be a friend to homebrewers
everywhere.
Tim (I think it was) had it right. You can't siphon uphill. Gravity isn't
free, you just can't pay someone else to hump your carboys up on the table.
So I want a peristaltic pump. Problem is, the major industrial users
(biotech and environmental sampling) are mostly wasting someone else's money
so prices go from $300 (real dollars) and up.
There's nothing in a peristaltic pump to justify those prices apart from my
mechanical ineptitude. I don't ask for royalties, I don't even expect
anyone to give me the prototype that put them on easy street. I just want
to pay US$100 or less!
Sean Richens
srichens.spamsucks@sprint.ca
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:43:43 +0000
From: Tom smit <tom@lunica-data.com.au>
Subject: Vegemite
Doc Pivo hypothesised
>If nothing else perhaps a new sandwich spread (It couldn't possibly be
>worse than Vegemite.... now that last comment ought to wake up the Aussies).
Who the <expletive> else would know about this brown, evil-smelling
shit-like substance Kraft has been *totally* unable to flog to any other
nation (& they have tried, oh yes they have!)? I use it occasionally as
yeast nutrient, though it is hard to open the screw-lid while holding my
nose with one hand!
Yuck
Tom
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:48:50 +0000
From: Tom smit <tom@lunica-data.com.au>
Subject: Straining pellet hops
Mike Roesch tiredly typed
>I had to use pellets for the finishing hops. Well you can imagine what
>I had to deal with when straining into my chilled H2O in
>the fermenter after the boil! The "spooge" from the pellets
>kept plugging my strainer in my nice new funnel! I'd bail
>in a saucepan full of wort (into the strainer) and then have to
>take a spoon and agitate the "spooge" collecting on the
>strainer to get more than a few drops to fall through it!
Use a coarser strainer, the splooge eventually filters out the rest of the
splooge, what gets carried across will be removed by the various
racking/maturing steps following fermentation
Tom Smit
Tiny Horses Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 06:06:27 -0500
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Yeast and CO2
Domenick Venezia asks for additional info & references on the impact of CO2
on yeast and my momily busting suggestion that rousing yeast is about
removing CO2, not resuspension. I owe thanks to Andy Walsh for sending
several of the paper's supporting this view.
The basic theory [1] is that CO2 dissolved in wort decreases the action of
the enzyme 'pyruvate decarboxylase' , so less acetylCoA is derived from
pyruvate. The formation of acetylCoA is fundamental to many of the yeast's
mechanisms, ester and lipid formation, and the TCA cycle. The actual
amounts of dissolved CO2 in various size brewing containers & types of yeast
was studied [2]. Most interesting to HBers is that 11L of wort in a 15L
glass cylindroconical container built up to about 1.5-1.6 times the
saturation value of CO2 for ale yeast, but only 1.2 times saturation for a
lager yeast (9.5vs10.5P wort, 18C vs 12C). Much higher dissolved CO2(DCO2)
appeared in larger 90L to 922L containers, in part due to the extra depth &
pressure. It is thought the cylindroconical design creates a vortex that
agitates and helps reduce excess DCO2.
What is certain from several studies [1,3] is that excess CO2 head pressure
dramatically reduces both ester production and final yeast proportionately.
Also fusel production is modestly reduced to about 1atm of excess CO2 head
pressure. In study [3] as the excess head pressure of CO2 increased from 0
to 1 to 2 atmospheres, the yeast mass per liter of wort [12P wort, 9C
fermentation, commercial lager yeast] dropped from 4.1gm to 3.0 gm, to 1.1
gm !!
Study [4] purports that except of low temperatures, the increased CO2 head
pressure can have a positive impact on VDK reassimilation (diacetyl
removal). It also suggests that up to 0.2 atmospheres (3psig) the extra CO2
pressure can improve yeast performance (perhaps by alcohol carboxylation -
not so great for brewing) , beyond that it's inhibitory, at 3.5 atmospheres
it prevents growth, and from [5] at 8 atmospheres it prevents fermentation
too (the Bohi process).
There are several approaches to removing some of the DCO2 supersaturation.
Source [2] describes beautifully the mechanism of CO2 release (bubble
formation).
<<
The escape of CO2 gas from fermenting wort involves a series of mass
transfer steps and is governed by temperature, and pressure used in the
fermenter. [...] CO2 gas will start to escape from the fermenter when the
dissolved CO2 concentration becomes greater than the saturation level [...]
For a given pressure, the solubility of CO2 in beer increases as the
temperature decreases.
Generally, gas break-out from solution requires the formation of gas bubbles
and this cannot occur unless the product is supersaturated with CO2. There
is then the potential for CO2 bubble nucleation. Nucleation of bubbles
takes place mainly at the bottom of the fermenter on trub particles and once
the supersaturation level is great enough, a sufficient driving force,
Cco2-Cco2eq (Where Cco2 is the measured dissolved CO2 concentration and
Cco2eq is the equilibrium of saturation value) is created to cause the
transfer of CO2 from the beer into the seed gas bubble. Bubbles then grow
in size until the hydrostatic forces acting on them are great enough to
overcome the surface tension, which is responsible for the adherence of
bubbles to the surface. When the bubbles eventually break away they drag
yeast cells in their wake, leaving behind a small pocket of gas which acts
as the seed from which the next bubble should grow.
Fermenting wort is maintained in supersaturation throughout the active
fermentation and the degree of supersaturation [Cco2/Cco2eq] is influenced
in a complicated way by the temperature, degree of agitation, amount of
yeast in suspension, and CO2 over-pressure. [...].
There is an inverse linear relationship between dissolved CO2 concentration
and agitation, and the latter being directly influenced by tank geometry.
The dissolved CO2 concentration reached, being related to hydrostatic
pressure, is also dependent on wort level within the fermenter.
>>
(Apologies for the long quote, but I've never see the matter so well
described.)
Adding CO2 nucleation materials has been studies as a means of improving the
attenuation of high gravity fermentation. Source [6] created an artificial
'wort' with a nutrient solution and glucose to 35 Plato (!) and fermented
this with a conventional brewing yeast NCYC1324 at 20C. Their control
fermentation achieved 20.2P as a final gravity. A sea-sand addition got
FG= 16.1P, Quaker Wheat bran addition got FG=11.9P, (washed insoluble) mash
solids added got FG=9.1P, Alumina(80/200 mesh) got FG=6.8P, and Vita soy
flour got down to 6.6P. The alumina and Soy flour achieved about 80%
attenuation of the 1.140SG media. Source [7] studies the impact of wort
clarity on high gravity (16P) brewing yeast performance. Their conclusion
is that CO2 nucleation sites in trub are a major part of the improved
fermentation performance of trubby wort over excessively clear wort. This
and other studies also point to the zinc and fatty acids in trub. Despite
the improved yeast performance trubby worts contain excess lipids and make
poorer beer.
An overview on yeast performance [8] sites a huge number of sources and
includes references to degraded FAN uptake by yeast, increased cell volume,
increased RNA content, increased DNA content, decreased cell protein and
increased cell FAN content as consequences of high DCO2. They also note
several solutions, adding an activated charcoal addition [9] to our list.
[1] MBAA Tech Quarterly, v32#3,1995, pp159-162, Kumara et al, Suntory
[2] MBAA-TQ, v32#3,1995,pp126-131, Pandiella et al
[3] JIB v98,509-513,1992, Renger et al, Univ Delft
[4] JIB v90pp81-84, 1984, Arcay-Ledezma & Slaughter, Heriot-Watt
[5] 'The Yeasts', A.Rose & J.S.Harrison, Academic Press, 1970, sect 2.3
[6] Applied & Environmental Microbiology, May 1994,p1519-1524, Thomas et al.
[7] MBAA-TQ, v33#1, pp 20-29, O'conner-Cox et al
[8] MBAA-TQ, v36#4, pp 383-406, 1999, Heggart et al
[9] MBAA-TQ v23, pp37-43, 1986 Seibert et al.
- --
As for an experiment, Phil Wilcox, by private email, suggested a very
clever (and obvious after the fact - aren't they always) method of reducing
CO2. Lower the headspace pressure below 1atm ambient. This, like Dom
Venezia's suggestion adds the additional factor of head pressure (tho'
source [8] suggests DCO2 is the primary impact of pressure on yeast
performance).
I can imagine several experiments to test different hypotheses, but I think
my question is this. Is DCO2 reduction or is yeast resuspension or
something else the cause of improved attenuation w/ agitation. Assuming
the pressure itself is not an issue I can imaging a static control fermenter
w/ bubbler, a shaken fermenter at increased head pressure and perhaps a
static fermenter kept at a lower head pressure, perhaps with an non-soluble
nucleation material added. Not elegant yet and in need of refinement but
... comments ?
-Steve
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:52:59 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg@plattsburgh.edu
Subject: corn sugar vs dme
Kevin;
My sense of it is that corn sugar carbonates a bit faster, and you
use a bit less than dme. Also, of course, there may be an issue of
color, that is, if you use darker dme...but I don't suppose that with
the small amount (1.25 cups for 5 gallon batch) that this means too
much...
Perhaps others can add their 2 cents to this ?
Happy Brewing!
.Darrell
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:13:07 -0500
From: "Hampo, Richard (R.)" <rhampo@ford.com>
Subject: Dimmer on motor
Andrew,
Don't do it. A dimmer will not control the speed of that type of motor. What
you likely have is a single phase induction motor. The speed of the motor is
solely controlled by the 60Hz AC frequency. Well, Ok if you want to get real
precise, the load does affect the speed but that is a second order effect.
The only way to change the speed of this motor is to change the frequency of
the voltage that is feeding into it. This is not an easy thing to do for a
hobbyist. If the speed is not what you want, a different pulley size is your
best bet.
Grind on!
Richard Hampo
H&H Brewery
Ecostar Electric Drive Systems (day job)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:52:39 -0600
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous@pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: RMS
Howdy all,
Got a question for the recirculators out there. I tried recirculating with
my direct fired system twice. Both times I compacted the grain bed. This
was partly due to my own thought that I had to have good visible flow to
the top of the mash. That may not be the case. I'd like to try it
again. I don't want to have to worry too much about the compacting the
grain bed and such (it takes a really low flow to avoid compaction), as
long as I'm getting decent recirculation. Why am I not worried about grain
bed mechanics? My thoughts are as follows:
Recirculate the mash to my hearts desire and do not worry about compaction
of the grain bed. When I'm ready to mash-out or ready to sparge, simply
uncouple the pump and plumbing and stir the mash. Let it settle and sparge
with gravity as usual.
Why do I want to recirculate? Rarely do I ever get my runoff as clear as
I'd like. I've manually recirculated more than 2 gallons many times and
still don't get runoff as clear as I'd like. I suspect that I may be
optimal. Can I effectively clear the wort by recirculation, then stir the
mash and allow it to settle again without losing the benefits of the
recirculation during mashing?
I think this will work, as Michah Milspaw recirculates "backwards" (top to
bottom) and doesn't report any problems. Why am I worried about fatty
acids? I've got a dubbel that I brewed recently that IMHO tastes quite
good but it suffers from a couple of faults.
First, it's headless. One cause can be excessive wort fatty
acids. Second, the yeast won't flocculate out. Yup, it's a finicky
belgian yeast, but excess wort fatty acids can also lead to poor yeast
flocculation (as I've read in those confounded books....damn the writers).
What say the masses? Can I successfully recirculate without overly
concerning myself with grain bed mechanics during lauter if I plan to stir
that sucker a bit before sparging? I'll probably try it anyhow, but
thought I'd ask.
nathan in madison, wi
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:11:43 -0500
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: Dropping & EBUs
Doc Pivo makes a good point regarding dropping:
>"Drop at the magically suggested time of exactly 14 hours (courtesy of Dr.
>Cone (One would think that he would be a hop specialist rather than a
yeast
>one, with that name)) and it will be good for the yeast."
>
>I think the second suggestion should not be taken quite so literally, but
>will depend on the condition of yeast at pitching, rate, and temperature.
Dr. Cone had much useful knowledge to share and I'm sure a lot of it came
from the commercial manufacture of beer, not a homebrewer's scale. In
commercial applications it is much easier to control the above mentioned
factors listed by the Doc. The magical 14 hours might put me pre or post
high krausen, depending upon the batch. I think the point is to introduce
more oxygen midway between pitching and high krausen as, in my opinion, this
is where the growth curve peaks. The Doc suggests to drop around the
"white krausen" period. Since I don't follow this practice, I would have
chosen the point where you first begin to see the white, wispy formations on
the surface.
Case in point: The day after Xmas I brewed a barleywine at 1.110 OG. and I
dropped it from the kettle (now this is a similar dropping, but not quite
the same dropping as we are speaking of) onto a 1 qt slurry of a washed
yeast cake from a previous batch + a 2 L starter of another ale yeast. BTW,
I love mixed yeast brews! I capped the carboy, shook the crap out of it for
15 minutes and said "Screw the oxygen tank. I'm going to bed!". So we've
got 5 gallons of sweet wort in a 6.5 gallon fermenter, a butt-load of yeast
and about 65 degrees F at pitching. The noise from the airlock woke me
around 6 AM - less than 6 hours after pitching. Gummy, pasty yeast splooge
was up into the airlock making it stick and rattle with the VOLUMES of CO2
being generated. So I pulled the lock and stopper, stuck a plastic bag over
the top of the carboy and just let it erupt. At 14 hours this batch was
just past high krausen and I was putting the stopper & lock back on.
Aerating my beer again at that point would surely ruin it. As of this
morning the lil' bastard was still kicking off 1 bubble per 10 seconds.
Stephen Weiss writes of EBUs:
>I am used to IBUs and even HBUs but I do not
>know how to hop my brew based on these EBUs.
I think these might be European Bittering Units. As with everything, the
Europeans have to band together have something entirely their own: the
Metric System, the EU, the Euro... Ya know, you finally get yourself into
the groove and they change everything on you...
I seriously don't know what an EBU is. I just like teasing people ;-)
Carpe cerevisiae!
Glen Pannicke
http://www.pannicke.net
"Designs and schemes which work well on paper rarely do so in actual
practice."
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:17:00 -0500
From: EFOUCH@steelcase.com
Subject: Hmmmmm....
>Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 07:38:30 -0500
>From: "Russell, David (D.A.)" <drussel3@ford.com>
>Subject: re: Ammonia fridges
>
>As a follow up to The Fridge Guy's post, I have come across a great catalog
>for Amish people. They have many non-electric appliances listed in it, and
>alot of other neat items. http://www.lehmans.com/
>
>David Russell
An interesting post, and an interesting website.
Does anybody else see the irony of a website that caters non-electric
appliances to the Amish? I didn't see an ammonia powered computer with
twisted catgut web service.....
Eric J. Fouch
The Electric Bent Dick YoctoBrewery
Kentwood MI
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:27:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve <gravelse@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hop Pellets - Problems
Mike Roesch writes:
<<The "spooge" from the pellets
kept plugging my strainer in my nice new funnel! I'd bail
in a saucepan full of wort (into the strainer) and then have to
take a spoon and agitate the "spooge" collecting on the
strainer to get more than a few drops to fall through it!
What a "pain" took me forever to strain the wort into the
fermenter!>>
I used to have this problem with the strainer in my funnel and then I
threw the strainer away. From your post you must be using a carboy for
your fermenter. I was using a carboy in the beginning and decided to
switch to a 7 1/2 gallon fermentation bucket. Once I've chilled the wort
past 80 degrees F, I pour it into the bucket through a nylon mashing bag.
This is one of those large fine mesh bags that some people use for
mashing, I use it as a strainer. It collects most of the hops and spooge.
I then let the wort settle for 1 1/2 - 2 hours so the spooge will sit on
the bottom of the bucket. Then I rack the wort to another bucket, or
carboy, if you wish, using the aerating wand/beer sprinkler to aerate. ;^)
SteveG
"Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, it's an adventure!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:40:36 -0500
From: RobertJ <pbsys@pbsbeer.com>
Subject: Re: New RIMS idea ??
From: "Jens Maudal" <Jens.maudal@c2i.net> wrote
Subject: I had a little brain storm the other day about constructing or
rather where to place the heater in a RIMS setup, somebody
have probably done it already although i haven't come across it.
Instead of making a separate chamber for fitting an external
heater outside the mashtun, why not fit the heater element under
a false perferated bottom in the actual mashtun itself.
____
Many do use this idea, not with a heater but with a direct fired kettle.
Pump out from the bottom and return to the top.
It seems that electric heating with a thermo couple to control the element
would give more even heating though.
Interesting idea
Bob
Precision Brewing Systems URL http://pbsbeer.com Manufacturer of 3 Vessel
Brew Systems, HERMS(tm), SS Brew Kettles, SS hopback and the MAXIchiller
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:53:22 -0600
From: Dan McFeeley <mcfeeley@keynet.net>
Subject: Re: Various
Tom Smit wrote, in part:
> Jeff has provided a couple of links to sites re Medieval/gruit beers and I
>intend to closely peruse these sites when I can (some days away yet) I know
>already that some herbs will be unavailable in Oz or will be called something
>different. If some kind soul also interested in these old beers knows how I
>can obtain these mysterious gruit herbs I would forever be in his debt.
This was also a topic on the historical brewing list. Check the
archives at:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/hist-brewing/archive/
and you'll find discussion and sources for obtaining gruit herbs.
<><><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><>
Dan McFeeley
mcfeeley@keynet.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:30:04 -0600
From: "Jim Bermingham" <bermingham@antennaproducts.com>
Subject: Brew day from Hell (I can say hell can't I)
So you think you had a bad day.
5:00AM Wednesday, January 10, 2001. Got up, made a pot of coffee. Noticed
that it was raining. Put on my slicker and went out to feed. After feeding
the horses and donkeys, I got on the tractor and hauled 4 round bales of hay
out for the cows. When finished I went back in, cleaned up and had
breakfast.
After breakfast I started grinding the grain for a 10 gallon batch of CACA.
Don't have a motorized mill so hand ground 17 lbs. of grain. Still raining,
so got the trucks out of the garage and set up the brewery in there. Put
water in the pots for mashing and for sparging and turned on the burner to
heat up the mash water. No sooner than when I added the grain to the hot
water, my wife came out and said the neighbor was on the phone. Neighbor
said that either his herd had doubled over night or my cows were in with
his.
Put on my slicker , walked the fence line till I saw where it was down.
Made a gap (temporary wire gate) and went to get a couple of horses. Took
horses to the barn, and went to check on the mash. Stirred mash, made
adjustments to the temp. Went back to barn and saddled the horses. Got
wife, and dogs and away we went to get the cows.
Now it ain't easy to separate 72 cows from a batch of your neighbors of
about the same size herd. You got to convince them that their grass is
greener than that of your neighbor's. At the same time you have to convince
your neighbor's cows that their grass is better. Raining,... Wife wet,
mad... horses and saddles wet, mad... dogs wet, mad...cows, dumb, wet,
mad... me? heck, having the time of my life, every little bit, while doing
the separating I have to gallop back to the house and check on the mash and
start the sparging. Wife just loved this, she always enjoys herding cattle
by herself... in the rain.
Finally get all the cows back in, the horses unsaddled and turned back out,
momma back in the house, the dogs on the front porch and me in the garage
firing up the old kettle. Get into dry clothes, pull up a chair, get a
beer, light up a cigar... IT'S BREW TIME!
Wife mad, dogs mad, horses mad, cows mad, you know, it just don't get no
better than this!
Jim Bermingham
Brewing with my spurs on, waiting on the cows to come home in:
Millsap, TX
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:53:18 -0800
From: Jeffrey Donovan <jeffrey@promash.com>
Subject: Beer Engineer - Call for Articles
Hello Home Brew Digest!
During the last few months, we here at The Sausalito Brewing Co. (ProMash
camp) have become increasingly aware that a need exists for an outlet of
very hard core brewing topics in article format, and the fact that there is
really no outlet for their distribution on a regular basis. While we
realize the interest in very hard core material may be minimal, we are in
the process of making a place where it is appropriate and accessible.
This place is Beer Engineer.com, and the URL is http://www.beerengineer.com
We plan to offer full issues in both HTML and PDF format and we hope to
launch the first full issue in June 2001, with preview articles appearing
before that time. The schedule will be to release new issues each quarter.
We are now making the first call for article submissions.
For the first issue we are looking for topics regarding brew house and brew
lab instrument calibration (digital and bi-metal thermometers, hydrometers,
refractometers, PH meters, etc.) and analysis procedures for malt and hops.
We are also seeking other topics that may be appropriate but are simply to
exotic for publication anywhere else. There is no minimum or maximum word
count. Pictures and diagrams will be accepted in gif and jpg formats. We
will be placing detailed format specifications on the website within the
next week or so.
If you have an article for submission please send it directly to
submit@beerengineer.com.
If you have an idea for an article you would like to see please send it
directly to articleidea@beerengineer.com Any other question can be directed
towards me at jeffrey@beerengineer.com
We are hoping the talent pool here at HBD will consider submitting some of
the many strands of technical excellence in a comprehensive article format.
Thank you for your time,
Cheers!
Jeffrey Donovan
Beer Engineer
The Sausalito Brewing Co.
jeffrey@promash.com
jeffrey@beerengineer.com
http://www.promash.com
http://www.beerengineer.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:22:34 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden@math.purdue.edu>
Subject: Whining
Glen P claims:
> Actually, any time you touch your beer stuff SWMBO will whine.
So true! And this even from SWMBO but likes the outcome. Go figure.
- --Danny
West Lafayette, IN
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:10:55 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: Hop Pellets - Problems
Mike writes after using hop pellets for the first time:
"This is my first and last experience with hop pellets! Geeze!
why does anyone use them! Any suggestions on handling
the "hop pellet spooge" problems?"
I'm sure there will be lots of responses, but I'd suggest using Irish Moss,
chilling the wort a little and then whirlpooling it a bit to collect the
'spooge' in the center. Then, even if you pour instead of siphoning, you
will leave most of the hop pellet residue behind with the break and whole
hop mess. Alternatively, a wort collecting manifold, or a copper scrubby-pad
on the end of a siphon cane would let you siphon off the cooler wort into
your fermentor. Either way, a settling time might solve most of your
difficulties.
hope this helps,
Stephen Ross
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:18:02 -0500
From: Nathan Matta <whatsa@MIT.EDU>
Subject: Kegs - now or later?
I've been considering going to kegs, since it seems much easier than bottling.
However, I don't have a refrigerator to store the kegs in. So, my question
is this:
Is it worth getting kegs if I can't keep them cool? I would tend to say no,
but I figured I'd ask the collective.
Nathan
========================================
Nathan Matta
Fuzzy Beer Home Brewery
Randolph, MA, US
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 17:16:24 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr@iquest.net>
Subject: Appeasing Swmbo
Another way to appease SWMBO... Make cola syrups. And of course cola from the
resultant. This is the original recipe for Pepsi. A downsized version
follows. Rounding off will give a unique flavor so it won't be exactly pepsi..
Notice the lack of caffiene in this early recipe. I'm sure you could add it if
you had the mind. There are recipes for Coca Cola but Coke was never brought to
bankruptcy court. The Coke recipes are sketchy and authenticity is sketchy.
@@@@@ Now You're Cooking! Export Format
Pepsi Cola Syrup 5 gallon
none
31 1/4 lb sugar standard confectioners A
5 gallon water
1/24 gallon caramel - burnt sugar color
2 2/3 oz alcohol
11 1/2 drops oil of lemon
9 1/2 drops oil of orange
7 1/2 drops cinnamon oil
4 drops oil of nutmeg
4 drops oil of coriander
2 drops oil of petit grain
Mix; Stir two hours:
Boil Sugar and Water
(Signed) C. D. Bradham, Chemist
U.S. Dist. Court ) ) In Re: Pepsi Cola Co., Bankrupt E. Dist., N.C.
)
Contributor: C. D. Bradham
NYC Nutrilink: N0^00000,M3919^14429,N0^00000,N0^00000,N0^00000
NYC Nutrilink: N0^00000,N0^00000,N0^00000,N0^00000,N0^00000
** Exported from Now You're Cooking! v5.33 **@@@@@ Now You're Cooking! Export
Format
@@@@@ Now You're Cooking! Export Format
Original Pepsi Cola Syrup
none
7500 lb sugar standard confectioners A
1200 gallon water
12 gallon caramel - burnt sugar color
1/2 gallon alcohol
6 fluid oz oil of lemon
5 fluid oz oil of orange
4 fluid oz cinnamon oil
2 fluid oz oil of nutmeg
2 fluid oz oil of coriander
1 fluid oz oil of petit grain
Mix; Stir two hours:
Boil Sugar and Water
(Signed) C. D. Bradham, Chemist
U.S. Dist. Court ) ) In Re: Pepsi Cola Co., Bankrupt E. Dist., N.C.
)
I, Caleb D. Bradham, do solumnly swear that the foregoing is a true,
complete and correct formula for making or manufacturing "Pepsi Cola" as
heretofore made and manufactured and sold by the Pepsi Cola Co., and is
the formula for said Pepsi Cola as originated by me and same is now in the
property of said Pepsi Cola Co., Bankrupt.
(Signed) C. D. Bradham
Sworn to and subscibed before me at New Bern, N.C., April 17, 1923, A.D.
(Signed) Joseph B. Cheshire, Jr.,
U.S. Referee in Bankruptcy
Contributor: C. D. Bradham
NYC Nutrilink: M0^00000,M3919^14429,M0^00000,M0^00000,M0^00000
NYC Nutrilink: M0^00000,M0^00000,M0^00000,M0^00000,M0^00000
** Exported from Now You're Cooking! v5.33 **
- --
Rod Prather, PooterDuude
Indianapolis, Indiana
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:48:24 -0500
From: Greg Owen <gowen@digitalgoods.com>
Subject: Lager & Temperature, take 2
My last query on this was answered with many helpful responses about
temperature controllers. Please consider this second take the insane
product of a fevered mind, not as a rejection of good answers ;>
I'm running an experiment to monitor the various temperatures in my
garage - air, water in a trash can, and water in an insulated cooler. It
looks to me like an insulated cooler with water is an excellent way to
maintain a reasonably steady temperature, with occasional and minimal manual
tweaking.
The graph of my geek-out along these lines is available at
http://h00a0c9056d78.ne.mediaone.net. Take a peek if you're interested.
This experiment leads me to the this question: How large a
cylindrical cooler is required to fit a 5-gallon glass carboy inside it?
Presumably not a 5-gallon. A 10-gallon? Are they generally available? If
so, any suggested sources? This seems an especially good investment as it
might double as a mash tun or lauter tun if I take the big step into
all-grain.
Any and all insight and advice is welcome and appreciated!
- --
gowen -- Greg Owen -- gowen@DigitalGoods.com
SoftLock.com is now DigitalGoods!
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3529, 01/13/01
*************************************
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