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HOMEBREW Digest #3349
HOMEBREW Digest #3349 Mon 12 June 2000
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
HSA and The Doc's credentials ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
Re: Growing Hops (stencil)
Aussie Hop Rhizomes ("Adam Ralph")
Fruit Flavors ("Jimmy Hughes")
Infrared Thermometers ("Angie and Reif Hammond")
Beer filtering, boiler percolation, Croatian (Dave Burley)
Brewing software; calculating SRM ("Bruce Francis")
Re: boil oxidation (Jeff Renner)
SRM calculations ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
Dr Pivo's Lactic (not sarcastic) Comments ("Phil & Jill Yates")
re:mash out ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
Re: HSA, etc.. (Jim Adwell)
HSA and Bud ("Peter Garofalo")
Re: Beer filtration (David Houseman)
mulberries ("steve lane")
Grants Imperial Stout recipe request (Rick Pauly)
Kenai Peninsula, Alaska (erniebaker)
* Don't miss the 2000 AHA NHC in Livonia, MI
* 6/22 through 6/24 http://hbd.org/miy2k
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 16:20:30 -0400
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: HSA and The Doc's credentials
In HBD# 3347 Dave Burley wrote of Oxidation of Boiling Wort:
>Alan Meeker wonders if there is a reaction of oxygen with wort at the boil
>at the wort/air interface.
>I can definitely say yes, although there are many here who protest
>otherwise without even trying the experiment.
I tried this in an attempt just to get the wort boiling faster on my
stovetop and I've been doing it ever since. The boil takes less time to
start, I lose less volume during the boil and it keeps a good roll going
during the entire time. While I'm sure that the steam does not eliminate
the reaction with atmospheric O2 entirely, I believe it helps to reduce the
interface of atmospheric O2 and boiling hot wort. The arguement that the
solubility of gasses in a boiling liquid is nil doesn't apply well here
since were really talking about oxidation (call it HSO?!?), a chemical
reaction which can still take place at the interface.
Now I'm not an HSologist, so I haven't studied this or written any papers on
it, but I do remember a little bit of Chemistry - very little. Remember,
most of us Biologists might have become Chemists if only pChem didn't suck
so bad ;-) Now doesn't the addition of heat help drive oxidative reactions
by adding to the required energy of the reaction as well as increasing the
rate? I would also think that there would be a lot of attractive sites for
oxygen on those big, fat protein molecules which are having those bonds
broken and re-formed.
Ahhh, food for thought. Most of this HS is BS. Alan, a curse on you for
bringing this thread up again ;-) ;-) ;-)
Anyway, while I didn't do a side-by-side test on my covered brews, I used
the same recipe, have a working set of taste buds and a good memory. So
anyone who wants a spectrographic analysis as proof will have to do the
experiment themselves. Sorry... ;-)
In HBD#3346 Alan Meeker asked about Pivo's doctoral status:
>Wait a minute, are you telling me that old doc Pivo is a /medical/ doc??
>Shudder
Seeing as how "Pivo" is Czech for "beer" I'd think he is more of a beer
doctor. Didn't know this until I saw the little tidbit of information on my
365 Days of Beer Desk Calendar (well, 366 *THIS* year, but who's really
counting). As Rich P. relates, I don't think I'd let him do a liver
transplant on me either, but I'd sure let him brew a batch of beer for me
;-) Keep postin', Doc!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 16:54:11 -0400
From: stencil <stencil@bcn.net>
Subject: Re: Growing Hops
Todd Goodman <tgoodman@sonusnet.com> asks
>
>I'm curious how other hop growers in the area (Westford, MA)
>are doing with their plants.
>
>This is my first year growing (six varieties) and I think I
>got them started late (late May).
[ ... ]>
In Berkshire County, on a North-facing claybank, fourteen
Liberty and four Hallertauer plants are variously at ten
to fifteen feet. Lowest leaves are about 8" across the
tips. This is their fourth Spring. They get top-dressed
with commercial manure ("MooPoo") when the first shoots
appear, and again when the cones start to form. Lower
leaves then will be trimmed to about a yard up. The first
two years I let everything grow ad lib and did not harvest
any flowers that formed. Last year, and this, I nipped
the growing tips from all but three bines per hill. Last
year's harvest was 20 ounces, dried. Maybe 4 pounds wet.
>I know I won't get much the first year, but they're growing slower
>than expected.
Been a cool wet Spring. Patience.
>
>The Nugget also has some insect damage (leaves cut through) on
>the lower leaves. Is this normal or should I be checking into
>it (the higher leaves don't show this damage and I don't see
>any insects now)?
Same here. Last year at this time I sprayed with a very
mild solution (2tsp Malathion, 1 tsp Volck oil - them's
teaspoons - in a gallon) but this year the lower temps
seem to be inhibiting the bugs.
>
>What do people tend to use to train their hops? I used two
>10 foot sections of galvanized pipe connected with a coupler
>with an eye-bolt through an end cap on one end and just an
>foot section of the same pipe sunk in the ground with an end
>cap on it. Then a piece of pipe just large enough for the end
>caps to fit within slides over both (to hold them up). There's
>a bolt in the pipe in the ground to hold the sleeve up high
>enough.
>
>Nylon rope trails down to an oak stake in the hill (a tent
>setup I guess).
The Liberty plants are in a row, 25-ft long, between a
pair of deadmen - 4x4PT, 3-ft up, 3-ft in concrete.
Lashed to each deadman is a 20-ft pole made up of PVC
pipe, 2-in and 1-1/2-in. At the join they're stiffened
with a yard-long plug ripped out of 5/4PT decking board.
Parachute cord is used for guying and for the spanwire
between the tips. K-Mart pulleys provide a halliard at
each end to lift a catenary line that supports jute
descenders. The whole rig gets struck in the Autumn and
the deadmen support game feeders (helps to lure the Giant
Whitetail Forest Rats away from the azaleas.)
The Hallertauers are planted around the upslope deadman
and train onto descenders from one end of the catenary
wire.
Now... how do you propose to measure Alpha Acid?
stencil sends
RKBA!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 15:30:41 WST
From: "Adam Ralph" <bluehillsbrewing@hotmail.com>
Subject: Aussie Hop Rhizomes
Putting aside the recent barney about which code of football is superior
(there is only one truly Australian game), its good to see all Aussies unite
to declare our national beer to be crap. Unanimous.
I'm currently planning for the upcoming Southern hop growing season and
wanted to know if any of you Aussies grow any hop varieties other than POR
or Cascade. I've spoken to a bloke in Tassie (professional hop grower) and
that is all he is currently selling. I'm keen to try the Cascade. Does
anyone else grow other varieties?
Cheers,
Adam.
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 08:26:52 -0400
From: "Jimmy Hughes" <inspector@bmd.clis.com>
Subject: Fruit Flavors
I will have access to fresh blueberries and would like to try flavoring a
batch.
Any suggestions?
Happy trails to you, 'til we meet again..............
Check out the free items, go to,
http://www.ncinspections.com
scroll down, click on the free after rebate link........
Save money, enjoy........
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 09:00:28 -0400
From: "Angie and Reif Hammond" <arhammond@mediaone.net>
Subject: Infrared Thermometers
Jimmy Hughes writes:
> I have just purchased a "MiniTemp" Noncontact thermometer from W. W.
> Grainger for $90.00. It is an infrared reader, looks kind of like the
> things that Drs. stick in kids ears.
> It has a problem reading the temp of shiny objects, such as aluminum or
SS.
We often use infrared thermometers at work and I have seen people try to
measure the temperature of a chrome surface with them only to get the
temperature of their belly button. This is like trying to take a picture of
a mirror - all you get a picture of is what is reflected in the mirror.
Infrared is nothing more than light whose wavelength is longer then what the
human eye can see. If the surface reflects infrared, then all you get is
the temperature of what is reflected. It makes you wonder about the cooking
catalogs that show these being used to get the temperature of the shiny
bottom of a pan :)
If you want to measure the temperature of a pot or other shiny surface with
this type of thermometer, paint a black spot on the outside that is bigger
then the field of view of the thermometer and aim at that.
Reif Hammond
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 09:08:41 -0400
From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Beer filtering, boiler percolation, Croatian
Brewsters:
Alan Davies has concluded that he needs to filter his beer, without
providing any detail.
I suggest you contact "The Filter Company" for equipment intended to be
used for filtering homebrew. I have to say that with the utmost care to
avoid oxidation of the beer, to avoid tainting by the filter material and
such, in my experience, filtered beer ends up much less satisfactory than
naturally clarified beer. I only filter if I am in a rush and the beer will
be consumed the next day or so under non-critical conditions.
Maybe you could provide some more information on why you believe you need
to filter your beer. Beer will clarify naturally if you don't have some
other problem. Filtering will not likely solve this other problem.
If you store your beer in a refrigerator for a few weeks is it clear? Are
you doing extract or all grain? What exactly are your expectations?
ABOVE ALL never blow air into your fermented beer "to deflocculate" it, as
you suggested. Oxidation will stale it and the effects will continue to
deteriorate the beer over time.
- -----------------------------------------------
Aaron Sepanski clarifies his meaning about percolation saying some British
breweries percolate the boil. I believe this is done to improve the hop
extraction by increasing the agitation in unstirred boilers at a lower
energy input and to prevent caramelization in direct heat boilers, but I
think they use nitrogen and not air. Can anyone else please comment on
this?
- ----------------------------------------------
Dalibor Jurina writes from Croatia asking for sanitizers that might be
available, since Iodophor is not readily available.
Unless your stainless steel parts are to be pressurized, I wouldn't worry
about any minor corrosion it might get in your use with bleach. Just don't
soak these parts and rinse and if you will be using this immediately, rinse
with boiled water. For pressurized vessels, never soak these in the
presence of chlorine, but a quick sanitizing rinse of a <clean> vessel
followed by a sterile rinse with boiled water should be fine for a
homebrewer.
In industrial applications, storing chlorine containing solutions in SS is
forbidden as corrosion is a reality and can lead to stress cracking and
pinholing. For homebrewers, using thin walled pressure vessels like a
Cornelius keg it is potentially a problem, but likely not a problem with a
normal heavy walled keg. Point is don't store bleach solutions in SS
vessels and with light homebrewer use you should be OK with quick rinsing
with bleach and water.
I have been brewing successfully for over three decades using only bleach
and boiled water and have yet to have an infection or spoiled beer that I
could blame on this fact.
As far as other sanitizers, if you want to try, go to a dairy farm supply
store or veterinarian and see if they have these sanitizers like iodophor.
Be careful not to get sanitizers which have lanolin in them, as teat washes
often do. You want the sanitizers used for the dairy equipment.
- -----------------------------------------------
I think a low flavor beer like a pilsner would be appropriate for any tests
relating to the oxidation of beer and not Octoberfest and the like as the
caramelized malt will obscure any flavor changes.
- -----------------------------------------------
AJ. I have kept my grain variously over the years in 40/50 gallon plastic
garbage cans, Rubbermaid storage containers, large coolers and a shipping
box (about the size and design of a large cooler) which I used to ship
display screen parts oveseas for trade shows. All worked fine and were
cheaper than $39/ .
The latter is the best, meant to withstand the rigors of travel, but the
Rubbrmaid is fine and it can be stacked easily and isn't too heavy when
full. If you plan to stack several, I suggest some sort of support ( maybe
concrete blocks with boards on them- aka a bookshelf from the 60s) to
prevent these from being crushed and spilling their contents. I have
successfully stacked two 50 gals garbage cans by putting a wide board on
the lid, but wouldn't recommend as the stack is unstable outside the closet
where I used this method.
Some years ago Sears sold this BIG ( like 4'+ long), cheap insulated cooler
on wheels which was also strong and could be stacked. When it became
obvious that the size was a legacy ( and why it was cheap) for most cooler
uses, I turned it into a malt storage bin.
By using plastic bags it is possible to keep several malts in the same bin
and to prevent contamination of all of your malts from one which has bugs.
- -----------------------------------------------
Keep on Brewin'
Dave Burley
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:14:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Bruce Francis" <bfrancis@pobox.com>
Subject: Brewing software; calculating SRM
On Thu, 8 Jun 2000, Victor Macias wrote about "Brewing Software":
>Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, but in case it hasn't, I've
>found the Beer Recipator spreadsheet http://hbd.org/recipator to be
>extremely helpful to me
I have to agree! I have used the Recipator (thanks, Mark Riley!) for
several dozen recipes, and have been extremely happy with many of
its abilites, including recipe scaling and its "inventory" of grains,
malts, hops, etc (which can all be customized). I just recently "found"
the page that allows one to add brewing notes, dates, mash schedules,
etc.... this really adds a nice, finalizing touch.
And on Fri, 9 Jun 2000, Joe Fleming wrote about "how to calculate SRM":
> Anybody know how to calculate the color (SRM) of a beer recipe?
Again, the "Recipator". It includes Lovibond estimations for all the grains,
malts, malt extracts, adjuncts. You can modify these if you have better
information (from the labels). I use this feature often to modify the amount
of grains and additives when I'm trying to formulate a recipe which might
be judged, and thus the final SRM is of concern.
- ---
Bruce Francis BFrancis@pobox.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 12:52:47 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: boil oxidation
Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu> writes that he had a problem with staling
of a CAP, presumably from kettle HSA. I've never had this problem with a
CAP (knock on wood), but I have with Dunkles.
According to Briess http://www.briess.com, Carapils (r) will help avoid
this, and 5% Carapils is not out of place in a CAP anyway.
>Since Jeff Renner now has me addicted to
>producing a good CAP (can I get a link for the Ayinger
>yeast?)
Dan McConnell of Yeast Culture Kit Co mailto:yckco@aol.com has it. Dan's
really, really busy with a day job (he's a research scientist at the
University of Michigan), so give him some time. He also has an 800#.
Don't know it. Ayinger isn't on the regular list, but he has it and will
sell you a slant.
As I've pointed out before, Dan gives me exhorbitant amounts of money for
saying this.
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000 11:51:31 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: SRM calculations
Joe (JOE.FLEMING@spcorp.com) asks about predicting SRM of beer from a
recipe.
Joe, Ray Daniels' _Designing Great Beer_ has an excellent chapter discussing
beer color, and the difficulties in predicting the color of finished beer.
For practical purposes, there are too many considerations other than malt
colour that influence the color of the finished beer, for homebrewers to be
able to do more than a rough prediction of beer color. Generally our beer
is darker than we'd like, since it is difficult to reduce color formation in
pale beer.
However, if you follow a standard procedure, then malt color will be the
most variable part. Daniels suggests using Malt Color Units or MCU.
MCU=(Lovibond x pounds of grain) / gallons
The total MCU rating is the sum of the individual MCU for each grain in the
recipe. Obviously this will be very relative as differing brewery equipment
and practice will lead to differing amounts of color in beer. But once you
have a number such as MCU to measure, you can begin to predict where your
particular beer will be on a rough SRM scale.
Daniels offers on p. 61 of DGB:
MCU SRM Color
1-10 1-10 Pale to light amber
11-20 8-12 Amber to Dark Amber
21-30 11-15 Dark Amber to Copper
31-40 14-17 Copper
41-50 17-20 Light Brown to Brown
50-85 20-30 Brown to Black
>85 >30 Black to opaque
This approximate correlation is most inaccurate at the 1-12 SRM range since
brewing process greatly influences the color of lighter beers.
I used this table to make a color predictor in a brewing program, but rather
than display a number, which I felt may imply an accurate measurement, I
displayed a color box. I only used 6 colors. I found it to be helpful and
accurate enough as a rough guide of what to expect, and especially useful
for predicting color contributions of darker malts like chocolate, dark
crystal, black etc.
For more info on how to control color formation in lighter beers, check out
Daniels _Designing Great Beer_. It's a good book!
hope this was helpful,
Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiae sugant."
______________________________________________
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 22:28:21 +1000
From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates@acenet.com.au>
Subject: Dr Pivo's Lactic (not sarcastic) Comments
Doc Pivo wrote quite an expanded post about his thoughts on lactic acid
additions to the mash.
I appreciate his comments (though subjective as he admits).
If lactic acid causes a thinning of the beer, I have to say, so too does
rice. This was my reason for using it. I was trying to create something
lighter than a full malt lager. Similar to Doc Pivo's conclusions, I found
it necessary to ease back on the hop additions, in order not to end up with
an out of balance beer.
I've never thought of varying the mash pH to adjust the resulting
dextrin/maltose ratio, believing mash temperature was the determining factor
here. In a sense, the use of rice in brewing could equate to using sugar. In
a cruder sense this could be seen as simply watering down the resulting
beer. I make no apologise for this. That is exactly what I had in mind. Yet
Ray Kruse's appraisal of my beer described it as anything but thin.
Perhaps there is far more to this mash pH than the experts know. Perhaps Doc
Pivo has realised this for a long time.
Personally, when I read his beer descriptions such as :
>"flirt with your tongue with a taste of wild
>strawberry, as it floats from the malty/butterscotch bass, to >the
>florality of the Saaz", or a Holesovice "presenting a >distinct tone of
>honey-dew melon layed on top of the thickness of body >that spreads all
>the way to the sides of the tongue"
I have to consider that quite possibly the Doc gets an awful lot more out of
his beer than I do.
Or maybe, just maybe, those Swedish "Gold Tops" are the best in the world
and the Doc's got an awful lot of them in his back yard.
Doesn't matter either way, I love hearing from someone who really enjoys his
beer.
But I don't want to appear biased. With Steve Alexander presenting himself
as the antipathies to the Doc, I have to say I am right behind Steve on the
"no mash out required" argument. Not that the Doc has yet got involved in
this.
Steve has not yet responded on my proposal to run the showdown on Burradoo
Estate. A brief note will do Steve. One cluck for "yes", two clucks for
"no".
Sorry for the plagiarism, this "chicken little" concept has tickled my
fancy.
Cheers
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 09:20:59 -0400
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew@compuserve.com>
Subject: re:mash out
>>Also it has been suggest that mashout is a bad idea since one
wants some residual amylase activty present in case unconverted starch is
released during sparging. <<
If the mash out is performed properly there really shouldn't be any
unconverted starch released during the sparge. One step that takes
under a minute is to get a bit of the grist and knead it with a bit of
water to release any bound up starch in the grist and test that with
iodine. If the conversion is complete there is no worry of unconverted
starch release. One of my original statements of why a mashout
should be done. And if no mash out is done then the sparge must run
at or below the mash temp to avoid the releasing of unconverted
starch, but then you haven't lowered the viscosity to ensure the efficiency
of the lauter. So it's a bit of a double edged sword.
>>Something
homebrewers don't really need to be concerned with unless they want to.<<
I agree partly with that, the information *should be available
so that the individual brewer can try it and see if the process fits their
particular needs. If someone makes a blanket statement of, " this is
something we homebrewers can ignore" they aren't granting the
brewer the intelligence to decide on their own what they should or
should not ignore.
Predominantly grain brewers want to make the best beer they can,
people that want a quick and easy beer stick to extract. Either way is fine
with me. If either one asks for ways to maximize their efforts they should
get the appropriate information and the utilize it to fit their brewhouse.
Hell, one guy that comes into my store makes cabbage wine; I don't
want to taste it, but I will help him select a yeast that will thrive in a
nutrient poor environment.
"Each to his own way, I don't mind"
N.P. Lansing
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 10:31:14 -0400
From: Jim Adwell <jimala@apical.com>
Subject: Re: HSA, etc..
Alan Meeker writes:
>>>>
I'm not so much concerned with the oxidation that occurs before this. Yes, I
do believe the evidence that it occurs is convincing but I have already
taken all reasonable steps that I can, within the limitations of my set-up,
to minimize this. It is just that I have recently moved to outdoor boiling
and am wondering whether or not I should take pains to limit air exposure to
the surface of the boil..
<<<<
Were you then previously boiling your wort in a vacuum, or deoxygenated
air? Is there some difference in the oxygen content of indoor and outdoor
air where you live? :)
If I were you ( but I'm not, and that's a good thing, because then there
would be two of you, which would be very confusing) I'd stop obsessing
about this HSA stuff and concentrate on other things to improve the taste
of your beer, and stop trying to see how long you can store it before it
goes bad.
Lately I have been boiling wort with the pot about 3/4 covered ( with my
motorized wort stirrer, which is mounted on a baking sheet), but not to
prevent oxygen from inculcating itself in the wort, as Dave Burley
suggests, but to get more mechanical action, and to save a (tiny) amount of
propane. The only noticeable effect on taste is that the resulting beer
seems somewhat more bitter than it otherwise would be ( more efficent
utilization of alpha acids from the hops, I suppose, due to the stirring
action). I do turn the heat down a bit when I cover the boiling pot.
Cheers, Jim
Jim's Brewery Pages:
http://home.ptd.net/~jimala/brewery/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 12:36:07 -0400
From: "Peter Garofalo" <pgarofa1@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: HSA and Bud
At last, the truth has come out! I, too, toured the A-B pilot brewery, and
confirm Phil Wilcox's desctiption of "stripping" the volatiles from the hot
wort with air. The cute little 9-month employee who gave us our tour didn't
know too many details (she had only worked in the fermentation area), but
several of us in my tour group asked if she was sure it was *air*, and not
CO2 or nitrogen. We were told that indeed it was air, and it removed
unpleasant volatiles.
Now, I've been chewing on this one for a couple of months, and can't make
much sense of it, unless HSA is less of a problem than previously thought.
Perhaps there are more susceptible steps of the brewing process (mash?), or
maybe "it's twoo, it's twoo" that post-fermentation aeration is much more
important, as several Seibel grads assert.
I gotta believe that it doesn't seriously impact beer stability. Love 'em or
hate'em, you've gotta respect A-B's quality control.
Damn, where's Mort O'Sullivan?
Cheers,
Peter Garofalo
Syracuse, NY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 06:50:29 -0400
From: David Houseman <dhousema@cccbi.org>
Subject: Re: Beer filtration
Alan Davies says he has come to the conclusion that he must filter his beer.
Before you jump into that arena, Alan, perhaps you could explain what
brought you to that conclusion? Not that filtering might not be a cool
thing to do, but there is an expense and time element that I haven't seen as
necessary except where I screwed up and forgot some important step. With
all the right procedures in the kettle and fermentation, including kettle
finnings and finnings after primary or secondary fermentation, and time, one
can get very bright beer. Perhaps not polished as a fine filter might but
certainly suitable for the most discerning tastes. Just might be easier to
modify procedures than filter your beer.
Dave Houseman
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:14:38 CDT
From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa@hotmail.com>
Subject: mulberries
The mulberry tree in my yard is in producing a wonderful crop this year but
I have only used them in pies and jam. Aybody have any input on making a
brew with mulberries? How much to use? whether to cook them first?
Secondary or primary?
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 18:44:25 -0400
From: Rick Pauly <flp2m@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
Subject: Grants Imperial Stout recipe request
I would like to make an all grain clone of Grant's Imperial Stout.
I've seen published that the grains are pale, black and carmel with some
honey thrown in.
Has any one tried to clone this and come close?
I think it's the best Imperial Stout I've tasted.
Thanks,
Rick
Charlottesville,VA
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:37:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: erniebaker@webtv.net
Subject: Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Will be leaving shortly to spend a month in the Kenai Peninsula, Alaska.
Since I have never been there I would like to know if there are any Brew
Pubs and/or a MicroBrewery in the area.. Thanks in advance....ernie
baker...calif.
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3349, 06/12/00
*************************************
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