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HOMEBREW Digest #3287
HOMEBREW Digest #3287 Fri 31 March 2000
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
No Sparge Barleywine (Tony Barnsley)
Mash in the Oven ? ("John Stegenga")
counter-flow chiller ("Pat McM")
Recipe help (Hop_Head)
mash out ("Micah Millspaw")
Questions on Belgian beers (Julio Canseco)
re-no mashout ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
canning hops ("Sieben, Richard")
FWH ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
re:counterflow chiller (LaBorde, Ronald)
Re: Legality of distallation (Andrius Tamulis)
Used military catering pots/pans (OSULLS)
Wyeast Contamination ("H. Dowda")
Re: Canning hops? (Demonick)
polyclar and bitterness (Jeff Renner)
Phil's Philler - THX! ("Brian Dixon.")
RE: Phil's Philler, Ready to Brew Wort ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
Re: Wink, wink, nudge ,nudge ("Goodman, Todd")
Hoegaarden Clone (Victor Macias)
boiling cereal mash (Marc Sedam)
Misplaced Hefeweisen (Beth Fuchs)
brinkman (Brian Pickerill)
Using keg as secondary ("Brian D. Kern")
Weiss not tasting right (John Leggett)
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
* Entries for the 18th Annual HOPS competition are due 3/24-4/2/00
* See http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ for more information
* 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival - entry deadline May 15th
* More info at: http://www.hotv.org/fest2000
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:51:29 +0100
From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley@blackpool.gov.uk>
Subject: No Sparge Barleywine
Hi all,
Apologies for the brewing related post with no flames, Name calling, or
facetiousness :>, but I'm in a bit of a need for guidance.
Following the success of the first two mashes in my new 60 litre mash /
lauter tun, I am planning a No sparge batch of Barley wine. The recipe for
20 litres is as follows and assumes a 60% efficiency
OG 1.105, 80 IBU's, 160EBC's (~80 SRM)
8868g Pale Malt (75%) (19lbs 9oz)
522g Crystal malt (75%) ( 1lb 3oz)
261g Chocolate Malt (75%) ( 9oz)
251g Wheat Malt (75%) ( 9oz)
277g Flaked Barley (75%) ( 10oz)
Mash for 2 Hours at 65C then add the sparge water to hit mashout, stir, and
leave for 15 minutes. Recirculate until clear and drain into the boiler.
Then boil to 20 litres with
840g Sucrose (15%) ( 1lb 13oz) and
53g Target Hop Pellets (11.2% aa) (1.90oz) (90 Mins)
51g Fuggles Hop Pellets ( 5.0% aa) (1.75oz) (60 Mins)
42g Goldings Hop Pellets ( 6.0% aa) (1.50oz) (60 Mins)
17g Fuggles Hop Pellets ( 5.0% aa) (0.60oz) (30 Mins)
14g Goldings Hop Pellets ( 6.0% aa) (0.50oz) (30 Mins)
18g Fuggles Whole Hops (0.60oz) (First Wort Hop)
IBU' Calculation according to Tinseth.
So to my question, Do I understand the process of No sparge correctly? That
is, you Dough in with the normal amount of liquor, mash as normal, and then
add all the 'sparge' water to hit the mashout temp. Recirculate and drain.
Or have I missed the point completely?
Is 60% efficiency a good guess / ball park figure for this process?
Thanks for any help
- --
Wassail!
The Scurrilous Aleman
Schwarzbad Lager Braueri, Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Reply To Aleman At brewmaster Dot demon Dot co Dot uk
ICQ 46254361
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:21:35 -0500
From: "John Stegenga" <bigjohns@mindspring.com>
Subject: Mash in the Oven ?
IN HBD#3286, Edward Doernberg ponders-
>i have been lurking on this list for some months now and find between the
>flames there is a quantity of useful information. In this portion there is
>even some that at my lowly experience level I can use. I was wondering if
>you could help a lowly extract brewer of 6 batches move up to partial mash.
>
>I have herd that you can do a partial mash by using a signal infusion and
>leaving it in the oven.
>
>3kg light LME or 2.5kg light DME (is that number right)
>320g roasted barley
>200g crystal malt
>100g chocolate malt
>1/2 cup brown shoger
>15g honey
>for hops I an considering tettuanger
>28g @ 60min
>14g @ 20min
>and 7g dry or as close as I can measure without fancy scales
>yeast probably 1048 or 1098
>
>if i do this what temperature should I use and how much water wold be
needed
>and how long do I need it at this temp and how much base malt should I use
>
>Is this wort the effort, will the bear be better for adding this step.
>
>Any other suggestions more than welcome
>
>Edward Doernberg
>in Western Australia
Edward -
You most certainly can use an oven to help you hold the mash temps. And
please, don't call yourself a 'lowly extract brewer'! My 8th extract batch
won a first place ribbon in the first competition I'd ever entered.
Your recipe looks a bit like a 'dark' version of my honey ale. Take out the
roated barley and chocolate malt and you'd be right there.
To do a partial mash you want to cut out a little of the LME/DME and add in
some 2-row (ale malt). I found that my 20L stock pot would let me mash a
little less than 2kg. I bought an 11" colander (noodle drainer - 28cm dia)
that, conveniently, fit into my 16qt (~16L) pot. I had to transfer the mash
to the collander over the 16L pot, gently with a ladle, and then drain the
sweet wort from the big pot through it. It's definately a multi pot job. I
have 3, 12qt, 16qt, 20qt. (please excuse my mixing english/metric - I'm
quite stuck with the american system!)
So, figure you are going to mash this stuff. First, cut back on your
specialty grains. I've found that you get more out of them when mashing
than when steeping.
Pre-heat your oven to it's lowest temp. Here in the states that's about
150-160F. Get about 5L of water to 165F. Stir in the following grains:
1.5kg 2row ale malt (cracked)
100g Chocolate malt (cracked)
100g Roasted Barley (cracked)
100g Crystal malt "
If you're using a 16/20L pot, it will be pretty full. Stir gently until all
the grains are wet and there are no lumps or grainballs. Then, put into the
oven. Check in 30mins - and check the mash temp. Should be close to 155f.
Stir and let rest another 20mins. Then start heating another 5l of water to
about 170F.
After an hour in the oven check the mash again. The grains should be
breaking down and looking like cooked oatmeal a bit. The liquid should be
quite sweet to the taste. The temp should still be in the area of 155f.
Gently transfer the mash from this pot to the large collander / strainer.
Drain the liquid from the mash pot through the grains into the collecting
pot below the collander. Gently ladle the hot water, trying to keep the
mash covered in water, onto the top of the mash. WHen finished, let the
mash drain for 10 mins or so, then discard.
Heat the collected wort in your biggest pot. Add a little water if you
want/need to. When I did this I tried to make sure I boiled 12L or so in
that 20L pot, which left a little room to be taken up by the malt.
When it boils, take it off the heat and add about 1.5KG light dry malt
extract(DME).
Add 1.5oz (3 plugs or 41g pellets) of Tettnanger hops in a hops bag. Boil
30 mins. At 30mins add 14g/1plug tettnanger hops in a hops bag. At 60mins
turn off the heat. Stir in 100g honey. Chill the wort as fast as you can.
Transfer the wort to the fermenter and top up with cold water. Shake well.
Check gravity. Pitch yeast, and ferment.
Do let me know how it turns out!
John Stegenga
Covert Hops Society
Atlanta, GA, USA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 04:57:18 PST
From: "Pat McM" <oast@hotmail.com>
Subject: counter-flow chiller
Just my two cents on the counter-flow chiller. Many moons ago I made up one
with garden hose and 3/8" tubing. Worked great but was slow with 1/2" outlet
on hop back and 1/2 bbl Sankey convert. A friend of mine was salvaging out a
solar water heating project that used antifreeze and transferred heat thru a
commercial refrigeration water to freon exchanger. 1/2" id on the inner coil
and about 1" on the outer. Even has a thermometer socket at outflow end. I
did need to silver solder the couplings. I have been using and enjoying it
for over ten years. I have no idea what one costs new but since water to
freon is one of the cheaper ways to refrigerate they must be available
somewhere.
Brewed Feb 8th with a FWH trial run. Used perhaps 25% more hops total but
used 1/3 as FWH's, still used hopback. Aroma character is improved without
excessive bittering. I'm a convert.
Pat McMullen
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:31:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Hop_Head@webtv.net
Subject: Recipe help
I was looking through some left over grains that I have and have come up
with the following recipe using what I have. If anyone could tell me
what style this would turn out as, that would be great. Also a yeast
suggestion would help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Well here it is:
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator?group=58&item=1074 Thanks in
advance for any help..........Jim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:49:52 -0600
From: "Micah Millspaw" <MMillspa@silganmfg.com>
Subject: mash out
Time to wade in to the deep end.
Regarding the mash out, I have some opinions.
>Subject: no-mashout
>0el posts agreeing with Dave Burley ......
>>1) One is improve the efficiency of the mash by utilizing as much of
>>the available starch [...]
>>2) decrease the lauter viscosity to improve the rate of extraction,
>>3) knock out beta amylase to stabilize the attenuation of the wort
>I completely agree with these reasons for mashout.
>What we disagree about is the magnitude of these effects and
>therefore their relevance to HB.
I believe that while the potential to increase efficiency may not be
of paramount concern to the HBd at large, it is still relevant.
The most important aspect of the mash out to HBers is in terms of
stabilization of their beer. The mash out, when conducted properly
can have considerable impact on the life of the beer. Since many
HBers do not have the means to stabilize their beers that commercial
brewers do, the impact of the mash out becomes more important.
Rather than write a long piece about the how and whys of this, I
would refer anyone interested to a back issue of Zymurgy (either
in '91 or '92) written by Bob Jones and myself about colloidal stability
and melanoidin formation.
I believe that I have the original article in a Word format somewhere
if the Zymurgy version can't be found, let me know and I will send it
out. BTW the original lacks the typos that Zymurgy puts in to make
their publication look amateurish.
Micah Millspaw - brewer at large
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:05:29 -0500
From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco@arches.uga.edu>
Subject: Questions on Belgian beers
Greetings,
I am planning a high gravity belgian beer (my first). The base is 18
lbs. of 2 row and 1 lb. of candi sugar. The info I've read recommends
adding more yeast at bottling time. S.G. 1090 F.G. 1016. I intend to use
Wyeast 1762 which states a 73 to 77 % attenuation.
Can someone advise me on the use of additional yeast at bottling? How
much?, starter? If the final gravity is within design is this additional
yeast necessary? OTH if gravity is still high will I have bottled
grenades? Is the process the same if I keg?
Any/all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
julio in athens, georgia
once a newbie .... always a newbie
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:23:11 -0500
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew@compuserve.com>
Subject: re-no mashout
"Steve says" >>>>3) knock out beta amylase to stabilize the attenuation of
the wort
I completely agree with these reasons for mashout.
What we disagree about is the magnitude of these effects and
therefore their relevance to HB.<<<
With the number of posts that come across the board, nearly one a day,
regarding questions of attenuation
"Steve says" this is not relevant to homebrewing!
While discussing brewing with a local brewer (Diplom Brau
Meister-Weihenstephen) this Tuesday he averred it "most important" to
mash-out at 72-74 C,"74 is better", it "fixes" the beer so "that you can
make the same beer repeatedly." Maybe you should travel to Germany and set
those people straight.
>>You are
just guessing in an area where you haven't read the lit or performed
the experiments <<
Now you're just guessing. I brew only *1 recipe that is_not_under the
category of experimental. This particular recipe is the one that proved to
my satisfaction that mashout in a homebrew setting is desirable.
It is only your_opinion_ that a mashout is of little relevance to our
beers.
And the kicker....>>>>3) knock out beta amylase to stabilize the
attenuation of the wort
I completely agree with these reasons for mashout.<<
Previously you stated the B-amylase was denatured by the time one reached
mashout, now you say (like I said before) it is necessary to denature them
B-A to stabilize the attenuation. This is rather pointless, you cite
the Tuborg experiment which addresses _one_ of the following:
>>1) One is improve the efficiency of the mash by utilizing as much of
>>the available starch [...]
>>2) decrease the lauter viscosity to improve the rate of extraction,
>>3) knock out beta amylase to stabilize the attenuation of the wort
Only number one is addressed in the Tuborg quote, but what isn't mentioned
is the starch haze that would persist, the biologic instability, or the
decreased foam stand, if one was to adjust the grain bill rather than
optimize the mash temperature profile.
I can truly say your understanding of brewing defies logic.
N.P. (Del) Lansing
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:26:46 -0600
From: "Sieben, Richard" <SIER1@Aerial1.com>
Subject: canning hops
J. Doug Brown asked about using the 'vac-u-pump' to can his hops. I looked
at the site and for $79 plus shipping, it looks ok, but I like my vacum bag
sealer better, even if it did cost $120 for a couple of reasons. 1) mason
jars take up a lot of room in the freezer, and the jars take just as much
room when they have 0.25 oz of hops in them as when they have 2 oz. of hops
crammed in. The vacum bags get sucked flat, and you re-seal them after use
of some hops and the bag is now smaller in proportion to what is in them. I
have 1# bags of hops in my freezer that take about the same amount of room
as 2 quart mason jars, I was never able to get more than 2oz in a mason jar.
2) the machine is electric and I don't have to pump the air out by hand,
that looks pretty tedious and inconvenient. heck it's only $40 more to do
it automatically and the bags are oxygen barrier bags. You can get the vacum
sealers at Service Merchandise or Kohls. I actually purchased my sealer at
Kohls and get replacement bags at Service merchandise. I am rambling now
because I can't even remember the name brand of the sealer. If you really
want to know, send me a private e-mail and I will look at it and get the
name or even the manufacturers address. If a bunch of you are really
interested I will post that data here. Damn brain cramp, it really is
pissing me off I can't remember the manufacturer name for you. oh well.
hope this helps.
Rich Sieben
Island Lake, IL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:29:14 -0500
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke@merck.com>
Subject: FWH
>>>how can hops added before
>>>the boil add flavor and aroma? Help me out here.
>>That's the big question that no one on HBD has found the answer to yet,
>>either in the literature or otherwise, but it really works.
>When I first heard of FWH I too was in the "how can this possibly work,
>what with all the lost volatiles..." camp. However, I'm definitely keeping
>an open mind as there apparently have been /controlled/ tests done where
>tasting panels do in fact find a difference between FWH and non-FWH beers.
FWH confused the hell out of me too, given what all of the literature has to
say on the subject of hop oil isomerization, volatility and all that other
organic voodoo. Sure, I'm a chemistry dork too, but get your noses out of
the books and find an excuse to drink more beer! - errrr, I mean perform
critical brewing research experiments ;-)
Since I'm still not all that trusting of it, I've been breaking my last
addition hops in half and FWH'ing one half and using the other half for a
normal late addition. Now I don't have numbers, charts or graphs, but my
recollection of the same recipe made without FWH vs. with FWH has my taste
buds preferring the FWH batches. I must admit that I have perceived a
smoothness of character in the hop flavor of beers that contain FWH. I have
not perceived any increase in hop aroma though. Hop aroma in my batches
appears to have been unaffected (but I prefer dry hopping for aroma anyway).
I think it would be interesting to taste the product of a FWH beer where
whole hops were used to line the false bottom in the lauter tun. I'm sure
someone has tried this one already and must be dying to spill his/her guts
about how it tuned out.. <hint-hint>
Glen Pannicke
alehouse.homepage.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:37:52 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: re:counterflow chiller
>From: J Daoust <thedaousts@ixpres.com>
> One thing you might try
>is pulling the copper instead of pushing it. Maybe use a snake to get a
>piece of small rope down the hose. Then pull it through. I was totally
>amazed at how good it worked. I made the fittings for the garden hose
>from parts at the hardware store for ~$10.00.
Some club members and myself just built a couple last week. I have not
tried mine yet except to connect it up to the faucet and check for flow and
leaks. We cut a 100 foot hose and 3/8 coil to make two 50 foot chillers.
We tried and tried to push the copper in with no luck. It would go in about
half way and then stop.
Finally in desperation, we pulled out the tubing then liberally coated it
with liquid soap, then it easily pushed in all the way.
Ron
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsumc.edu
http://hbd.org/rlaborde
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:46:16 -0600 (EST)
From: Andrius Tamulis <atamulis@unix1.monm.edu>
Subject: Re: Legality of distallation
Doug Moyer asks,
"I.e., what is left over of the hop flavor of an American IPA? "
The one experiment I did (in a college chemistry lab) suggested to me only
one thing: _never_ distill anything that has hops in it. The resulting hop
taste is overpoweringly bitter; different from the bitter of homemade
hooch, which I have had.
Andrius Tamulis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:15:32 +0100
From: OSULLS@uk.ibm.com
Subject: Used military catering pots/pans
I have ordered a large stainless steel 6 Gallon pot with lid from the
following UK site. I have also ordered a cast iron single ring gas burner.
I will update when I
get the stuff, but from speaking to the guy who runs the company the kit
sounds top quality, if a little used.
http://www.armytents.co.uk/tents_en.htm
Sean O'Sullivan
UK Swansea
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:30:03 -0800 (PST)
From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda@yahoo.com>
Subject: Wyeast Contamination
The question of contamination of Wyeast paks has come
up again. From the summer of 1998 through the winter
of 1999 I cultured the contents of 23 various and
divers paks. I was interested in the DNA profiles of
the yeasts. Since contamination would be a serious
problem in such studies, we exhaustively tested each
and every pak for contamination with bacteria,
filamentous fungi and other yeasts.
Competence of microbiologists/laboratory: The studies
were carried out in a large medical/environmental
laboratory certified under CLIA-88 without
deficiencies for 6 years (mycology 10 years).
Independent proficiency testing programs had resulted
in grades of 100% for over 5 years in the mycology
section (fungus/yeast specialty). The bench staff
were both certified medical technologists (ASCP), one
was certified in addition as a specialist in
microbiology by ASCP). They had an aggregate of 50
years experience. The work was performed under a
director who is Ph.D. in microbiology and a Diplomate
of the American Board of Medical and Molecular
Microbiology, with 37 years in the profession.
Biosafety level (containment) 2 and occasionally 3 was
strictly used throughout.
Inoculum: Paks were incubated at room temp to about
1", opened aseptically after through mixing and a
1:100 dilution prepared in sterile saline. Each
plate/tube was then inoculated with 0.001 ml of
dilution using standard techniques.
Media used: All paks were cultured using media which
would isolate and screen yeasts and fungi: Sabouraud's
Dextrose agar and broth(general growth), Bromcresol
Green Agar (efficiently differentiates by color and
colonial morphology common yeast genera and some
species); media to detect bacteria included: 5% sheep
blood agar, Brain-heart Infusion agar and broth and
thioglycollate broth(all will also support the growth
of fungi/yeast). All lots of media were subjected to
rigouous quality control for performance, physical
parameters (pH, etc) and sterility, and uninoculated
controls were included in each set.
Incubation: Sets of all media except BCG and
thiglycollate were incubated aerobically, under CO2
and anaerobically. Sets of all media, were incubated
at room temp (72-3 F) and 35 C. Additionally the fungi
specific media were incubated at 30 C. Media were
held, except BCG, for 2-4 weeks before final
examination and discard.
Examination: Plates were incubated for 2 - 5 days
(depending on media) before first visual and
microscopic examination.
Opps, sorry, I've run too long...results tomorrow.
Why don't those who want even more technical detail
drop me an e-mail so I can include it in part deux.
How many angels will fit on the head of a pin?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:34:36 -0800
From: Demonick <demonick@zgi.com>
Subject: Re: Canning hops?
From: "J. Doug Brown" <jbrown@mteer.com>
> What methods do you hops growers use to can hops. ...
I use a corny keg. Grease up all the gaskets with silicone
stopcock or vacuum grease. Fill with hops. Purge with CO2.
Store in a cool place. I've stored home grown Tettnanger
for a couple of years like this and can detect no signs of
degradation.
Cheers!
Domenick Venezia
Venezia & Company, LLC
Maker of PrimeTab
(206) 782-1152 phone
(206) 782-6766 fax orders
demonick at zgi dot com
FREE PrimeTab SAMPLES! Enough for three 5 gallon batches. Fax, phone, or
email: name, shipping address (no P.O.B.) and phone number. (I won't
call. It's for UPS in case of delivery problems). Sorry, lower 48 only.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:06:47 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: polyclar and bitterness
Brewers
A few weeks ago I posted in passing that polyclar would reduce bitterness,
and an HBDer asked me for specifics. I based this on a general feeling
I've had after I polyclared beer, not on any kind of analysis. I thought
Dave Miller mentioned this effect, but I can't seem to find the reference.
I may be wrong. Perhaps it's the reduction of oxidized polyphenols, which
can taste harsh, that reduces bitterness. Does anyone else know about
this? I thought sure I'd read it somewhere.
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:27:16 -0800
From: "Brian Dixon." <briandixon@home.com>
Subject: Phil's Philler - THX!
To those that provide info on where to locate a Phil's Philler ... thanks!
One of the reasons for asking the question here on the HBD was because the
answers would be from people who were happy customers. Consequently, a brew
shop with good service would get the business (small business yes, but my
little purchases are the only vote I've got to keep the good shops around.)
... My new Philler will be here in a couple of days: Good service, good
price. Got it from The Home Brewery (www.homebrewery.com). They had nickel
plated 12" and 15" versions to pick from.
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:31:45 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders@paddockwood.com>
Subject: RE: Phil's Philler, Ready to Brew Wort
Someone asked about the availability of Phil's Philler. Folks in Canada may
be interested, Paddock Wood stocks Phil's Philler, stainless steel, $20.
FWIW, I love the Phil's ss filler -it's practically indestructible, and has
a great valve that doesn't clog or stick.
And, on the subject of ready to brew wort like MicroWort, and the WortWorks
kits, I just couldn't let this go by, Paddock Wood's ReadyBrew(tm) kits are
100% fresh pure all-grain wort, in a self-contained primary fermentor.
All you need to do is pitch yeast. We make them fresh daily. Unfortunately,
given the perishable nature and heavy weight (unlike WortWorks, these are
not brewed high-gravity, nor are they pasteurized nor have acid stabilizers
added) ReadyBrew kits are only available for pick-up at Paddock Wood's
retail outlet in Saskatoon, SK. Average cost for a ReadyBrew kit is $35 for
21 litres. All the world's best beer styles available.
Details on the above available at our website, www.paddockwood.com
caveat: definitely affiliated now, but I was once a satisfied customer--I
was so impressed I bought half the company!
cheers,
Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevesiae sugat."
______________________________________________
Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK
orders@paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:56:38 -0500
From: "Goodman, Todd" <tgoodman@sonusnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wink, wink, nudge ,nudge
> Sorry, I Forgot to mention. If you go to the hardware store for copper
> tubing hose clamps, vinyl tubing etc in Tennessee, the clerk
> automaticaly thinks he's helping you to make some sort of still. They
> just don't quite buy the fact that you are a hombrewer. In TN, Don't
> argue. The hardware stoe guys are like 10 times more helpful if they
> think you are up to something. I plan on surprising them by dropping in
> with a few homebrews to prove I wasn't trying to do something Uncle Sam
> didn't like.
>
> Jett Jerome in Ooh-ta-waahhH, TN
I guess you never saw the COPS episode where they were going on a "drug"
bust because someone claimed the guy was distilling liquor.
They found his immersion chiller and claimed it was the still coils,
carboys, an his mash kettle (which was where he "heats his mash before
distilling"). They also made a comment about the sticker on his corney
keg that said that it was the property of pepsi co and must therefore
be stolen property. (They did find that he was growing pot in a closet
too.)
They threw him onto the hood of the squad car when he walked up. The
cop driving away was saying something about how "they think they're not
hurting anybody, but then someone goes blind."
Kind of scary.
Todd in Westford, MA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:24:09 -0800
From: Victor Macias <VMacias@foxsports.net>
Subject: Hoegaarden Clone
Greetings, Collective.
I'd like to brew a Hoegaarden/Belgian White, and I'm wary of doing a lactic
mash, not to mention not knowing how to. I've been told that using a
"little" lactic acid at bottling can achieve a similar "twang", but I have
no idea how much to use. This will be my second attempt at an all-grain
beer. Here's the recipe:
For 7 gal boil yielding 5.25 gal.
5.5 lbs Belgian Pilsener
4.5 lbs Flaked Wheat
.5 lb Steel Cut Oats
1oz Saaz @ 75 min
.5oz Saaz @15 min
.5oz Styrian Goldings @15 min
1oz coriander @ 0 min
.25oz Curacao @ 0 min
Wyeast 3944
122* rest for 20 min
155* until 170 mashout.
Thanks in advance.
Hoping to see a "hope this helps" in my near future,
Victor Macias
Pacific Gravity HB - Culver City, CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:03:51 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam@unc.edu>
Subject: boiling cereal mash
The reason for the boil was (historically) two-fold: (1)
ensure the cereals were fully cooked so they could be
converted to sugar (in the days before differential scanning
calorimeters could tell you the exact gelatinization temps),
and (2) adding a known amount of boiled mash to a known
volume of "regular" mash would increase the temperature a
known amount. The latter has everything to do with life
before thermometers. If you knew that removing 1/3 of the
mash, boiling, and returning to the rest of the mash led to
a clear, fermentable wort, that's what you did. Both of the
original reasons for boiling of the cereal mash (and
decoctions in general) have been obviated via technological
advances. There are other benefits to doing a decoction, but
IMHO it was mostly designed for life before thermometers and
well-modified malt.
If you want to use flaked corn in your CAP, go for it. I've
talked to Jeff Renner on many occasions about this
and he says it works fine. I agree. People still argue
(and I also agree) that boiling of the cereal mash adds some
yummy malt flavors due to the creation of melanadoins. It's
about the only reason to do it anymore. For a simple CAP,
do an infusion mash at 152F with the flaked corn already
added. Works like a champ.
Cheers!
Marc
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:03:05 -0700
From: Beth Fuchs <bfuchs@chtm.unm.edu>
Subject: Misplaced Hefeweisen
Ok, I know you'll all laugh and wonder how I could misplace a keg of beer,
but it was done. After my superbowl party, my husband moved my half-full
cornie keg of hefeweisen to a corner and then promptly covered it with a
blanket. It has been stored under CO2 pressure at about 60-70F. My
question for the brew-rus-is this keg of hefeweisen shot or should it still be
ok if I get it chilled? Thanks!
Beth Fuchs
Research Engineer
Center for High Tech Materials
University of New Mexico
1313 Goddard SE
Albuquerque, NM 87106
Bfuchs@chtm.unm.edu
(505) 272-7844 or (505) 272-7168 phone
(505) 272-7801 fax
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:00:47 -0500
From: Brian Pickerill <bpickerill@mail.mac.com>
Subject: brinkman
I have a brinkman cooker. My keg boiler (scrap) bottom ring was a bit
mangled anyhow (probably why it was put out of service--it didn't quite sit
up straight). It wouldn't fit on the burner stand at all, so I cut
straight down toward the weld in several spots (probably about 5 inches
apart) and bent the keg ring out just a bit such that the burner ring is a
snug fit in the bottom of the boiler. This was a lot easier than it
sounds. It's sturdy now, and it sits closer to the flame (heats faster)
than when I used an old stove grate). I have to hold down the burner with
my foot when removing the boiler from the stand. (No prob.)
> What methods do you hops growers use to can hops. I found a product I
>was considering called "Vac-U-Pump" at: http://www.vac-u-pump.com/ ,no
Check the archives using the key phrase "Fred Garvin"...
- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie, IN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:23:39 -0800 (PST)
From: "Brian D. Kern" <bdk@srl.caltech.edu>
Subject: Using keg as secondary
What benefit is there in using a glass 5g carboy as a secondary
fermenter over using my 5g cornie keg? Is there a desire to
separate the beer from any leftovers that settle out while in
the secondary? About the only other thing I can think of is that
my keg doesn't have an airlock (although it does have a pressure relief
valve). I am trying to understand justifying an additional transfer
and the sanitation that goes along with it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:32:01 -0500
From: John Leggett <leggettjr@home.com>
Subject: Weiss not tasting right
I have brewed a GlenBrew all malt kit. Primary 7 days, secondary 7
days. In bottles now for 4 weeks. Still not transparent and tastes very
smokey. May have burnt some malt extract when boiling (only my 2nd batch
ever). Will this beer ever be palatable or should I discard the whole
batch? thanks, JRL
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3287, 03/31/00
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