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HOMEBREW Digest #3051
HOMEBREW Digest #3051 Tue 08 June 1999
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
re: re : if you watch and wait - retrogradation/science-vs-art ("Stephen Alexander")
Turperntine Beer (Ken Schwartz)
Using Pumps ("John Robinson")
Smacked Pack Longevity ("John Robinson")
Old Hops ("Nicholas Dahl")
Lauter tun valve question ("Nicholas Dahl")
re : Adjunct Boiling ("Alan McKay")
Partial Mash Stout (Mark Swenson)
Smacked Pack Longevity (Mark Swenson)
Wort Recievers, More HSA (Joe Rolfe)
brewing and ART (RCAYOT)
lambic experiences ("Kensler, Paul")
dextrin(e)s ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
3rd And Final Notice of BUZZ OFF Competition ("Houseman, David L")
White Sugar in Real Ale. ("Yusko, Jon")
High speed fermentation (Ian Smith)
Madison WI Brew Pubs? (David A Bradley)
Do you like Led Zeppelin, Rush and Styx (via)
Boost Your Sales Today ("Elery")
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
* 2000 MCAB Qualifiers: Boneyard Brew-Off 6/12/99
* (http://www.uiuc.edu/ro/BUZZ/contest5.html); Buzz-Off!
* Competition 6/26/99 (http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 04:40:09 -0400
From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: re : if you watch and wait - retrogradation/science-vs-art
Alan McKay writes about retrogradation ...
>I've never boiled my rice or other adjunct with malt, and have
>never had a problem with fermentability.
Retrogradation is ONLY due to amylose, it will happen more readily with
neutral pH, low water conditions and cold (near freezing) temps. [The most
common example is stale bread - this is classic retrogradation.] Mechanical
stirring helps prevent the gelling, and so makes water available - prevents
retrogradation.
Most grains appear to require 20X to 40X (!!) their weight as water in order
to
get full gelatinization and hydration w/o amylopectin breakdown If you
add a little malt to bust up the glucans and the amylopectin, the water
needed drops very dramatically, tho' it may not help the retrogradation
situation.. The malt pre-mash helps prevent scorching too.
Why so much water - the amylose is only very marginally soluble in water -
somewhere around 10mg/mL the amylose forms the helical 'semi-crystalline
structures that I and other have described, precipitates out as the helical
retrograded amylose.
You can probably get away with vastly lower water amount than that required
for full hydration and no malt enzymes as long as you keep it warm and
stirred till you add it to the mash and have enough water to keep it fluid..
Also - at the HB level who cares if you lose 5% of the starch as retrograded
gunk - they'll just sit in the mash tun and decrease your extract % by a
little. OTOH if you ever had oatmeal or rice "seize up" due to insufficient
water - you'll know the downside. You'll have a very tough time getting this
'glue' to mash.
How do you know it's retrogradation ? Add more water and see if it
solubilizes.
- --
Marc Sedam as usual write a lot that I agree with but ...
>As mentioned in my earlier
>post, it requires a straight chain of seven glucose molecules to
>activate, then randomly cleaves the chain via the same 1-4 link.
Catalyzed reaction is "....endohydrolysis of 1,4-alpha-D-glucosidic linkages
in polysaccharides containing THREE OR MORE 1,4-alpha-linked D-glucose
units". Three not seven. The attack isn't truly random but there are
definite probabilities based on the nearness to the terminal glucose and the
length of the starch and especially the source of the enzyme. Small matters
tho'.
>For completeness, dextrins can also be formed by subjecting starch to
>high heat in the presence of (1) moisture, and (2) acid.
Right but very low pH tho, like ~2.0. Never happens in brewing.
>Dextrinization using this method also creates the
>byproducts of Maillard reactions--good news for the specialty maltsters.
Amino acids are needed to get to even the first intermediate steps toward
maillard products. Starch alone won't do ask the guys who make light corn
syrup.
- --
I'm also a little disturbed about the nomenclature used in various posts.
Monosaccharides are of course single unit sugars. Amylose is a straight
chain 1-4 linked starch (glucose units). Amylopectin can be though of as a
bunch of amylose segments which also occasionally have a 1-6 branch point.
Oligosaccharide usually refers to monosaccharide polymers with 2 to 10 units
regardless of the linking arrangement or the saccharide involved. Starch
often (but not always) refers to the natural mixture of amylose and
amylopectin that appears in foods.
There is no regular definition of sugar and dextrin when used without
qualifiers that I am aware of. Some books refer to the monosaccharides as
sugars and any polymers as not, while other books refer to maltose,
maltotriose, etc as higher sugars.
>I think dextrines, are by definition, what remains when the amylases have
>worked to the limits of their liquification.
or
>Dextrins are unfermentable polysaccharides because they cannot be
>broken down by the amylases in the mash.
Those are definitions of "LIMIT dextrin", not dextrin.
I have several books in carbohydrate chemistry under my nose at the moment -
none offers a concise definition of dextrin, but they do offer uses that
will break the two definitions above.
- --
Brewing is clearly an art. But no one is an artist until he has first
masters his medium; that's where the science comes in.
As far as degrees of anality arguments are concerned - I reject that. If an
in depth discussion of phytin doesn't do anything for you personally, rest
assured that it does appeal to some folks and is a pleasure to them. It
doesn't make the participants 'anal' any more than it make the
non-participants sloppy and lazy. It's just an approach to understanding
that works for some people. Are the consequences of some of the problems
too small to bother with ? Yes, but there are also a *lot* of HB momilies
out there. Untruths and half-truths that are regularly followed without
being questioned. I could make a list - but the 8k limit cometh ... .
-S
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 05:59:08 -0600
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Turperntine Beer
David Rueber used juniper branches in his brewing and asks:
1. Does juniper beer always taste like turpentine?
Every one I've tasted has that overtone.
2. Does the bad taste come from the berries or the branches?
Don't know for sure but I suspect it's mostly from the sap.
3. Does the turpentine taste go away with age?
I was given a few bottles of a turpentine -- I mean, spruce -- beer
(gee, thanks), and I did notice the rough edge diminished over time.
However, this is not to say that the taste went away, just that it
blended a bit with age.
Good luck!
- --
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer
E-mail: kenbob@elp.rr.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 09:07:01 -0300
From: "John Robinson" <robinson@novalistech.com>
Subject: Using Pumps
Hi all,
I just recently bought a pump from Moving Brews (no affiliation
other than satisfied customer blah blah blah). I bought the one
rated for 250F, with a cord attached.
I must say, I'm very impressed with it so far. It works quite well. If
you're interested you can look them up on the web. I got the fitting
kit for it as well, which I also recomend.
For those of you who have never used a pump, and are considering
getting one, do it! It cut a lot of lugging and splashing out of my
brewing day, making for a much more pleasant experience all the
way around.
I also used a Phil's Sparge Arm (no affiliation etc) for the first time.
It sure beat dumping water on top of the grain bed.
For those of you in Canada (like me) this particular pump qualifies
under the free trade agreement, and so no duty should be payable.
All I got charged was 15% HST and a $5.00 customs clearing
charge from Canada Post. The total time to delivery in Nova Scotia
was about 14 days.
I used it for brewing the first time last Saturday and I thought I
would pass along the experience in the hope that others would not
make the same mistake I made. I use a converted keg with about
10L of foundation water below the false bottom. I heated the water
to 160, added my grain. The mash temperature stabilized at 150
(where I wanted it) and I hooked up the pump and started to
recirculate.
That effectively dumped an extra 10L of 160+ water into the mash,
raising the temperature of the mash quite high. Extraction suffered
slightly, but the total effect will not be known until the beer is
finished fermenting. I expect that the terminal gravity will be
slightly higher than I wanted as well. We'll see.
A better approach would have been to mix the water and grist at
around 130-140, and then recirculate while heating. That's what I'll
do next time... :)
- ---
John Robinson "The most basic rule of survival in any situation is:
Technical Architect Never look like food." - Park Ranger.
NovaLIS Technologies
robinson@novalistech.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 09:11:30 -0300
From: "John Robinson" <robinson@novalistech.com>
Subject: Smacked Pack Longevity
Hi Mark,
I personally would advise tossing it. I've been in the same position,
and not tossed it, and regretted it.
Since I've been brewing on a 10 gallon system I've gotten very anal
about having enough yeast in peak shape. To the point where I
would rather pitch enough dried yeast, that an insufficent amount of
liquid yeast in poor shape.
- ---
John Robinson "The most basic rule of survival in any situation is:
Technical Architect Never look like food." - Park Ranger.
NovaLIS Technologies
robinson@novalistech.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 08:28:51 -0400
From: "Nicholas Dahl" <ndd3@cornell.edu>
Subject: Old Hops
I have some old hops in the freezer. The 8oz. bag is factory sealed in
nitrogen. The sealed bag is "'96 Galena" @ 12.9%.
Are these hops any good for brewing? If so, how might I calculate their A%?
Truth in brewing,
Nick
Nicholas Dahl
School of Hotel Administration
Cornell University
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 08:38:27 -0400
From: "Nicholas Dahl" <ndd3@cornell.edu>
Subject: Lauter tun valve question
I have inherited two large pots from an industrial kitchen. These aluminum
pots (40 quarts & 50 quarts) were used for sauces and soups mainly, and have
a 3/4" hole bored into the their side, about an inch from the bottom. Both
pots have their original SS spigot, but these valves look more like a big
coffee pot spigot, and I think 1-1/2" tubing is about the smallest size that
could attach to the spigot's mouth.
If I were to use one of these pots as a lauter tun I would fear HSA from the
relatively "huge" tube diameter (I used to use 3/8" tubing with my GOTT
tun).
Recommendations? For instance, if I went with a smaller replacement valve,
what kind of washer would I use to plug the 3/4" hole?
Truth in brewing,
Nick
Nicholas Dahl
School of Hotel Administration
Cornell University
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 09:07:24 -0400
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: re : Adjunct Boiling
Dan Listermann claims :
"If you don't, and I have, your adjuncts ( I used rice ) will
form a column of gooy snot ( technical term) that , if it
doesn't erupt out of your kettle, will burn on the bottom.
I suppose that you could just use an enormous amount of water
to dilute the snot, but the malt works really well and you may
not need to cool the mash before mixing in the rest of the
grist."
I respond with :
I don't know what you guys are all doing wrong, but I use
rice and corn meal quite a bit, and have never had a single
problem. Maybe it's because I use a top-of-the-line SS pot
with an Aluminum foot, I don't know. But I've never once
had a problem using them without any malt in with the adjunct.
I use 1 lb in a 5 litre pot. Admittedly, I should be using
a slightly bigger pot. But I've never had sticking or burning,
though "gooy (sic) snot" probably isn't a bad description of
what the stuff is like ;-)
My extraction numbers suggestion I'm getting full utilization,
too.
cheers,
-Alan
- --
Alan McKay
OS Support amckay@nortelnetworks.com
Small Site Integration 613-765-6843 (ESN 395)
Nortel Networks
Internal : http://zftzb00d/alanmckay/
External : http://www.bodensatz.com/
All opinions expressed are my own.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 09:25:21 -0500
From: Mark Swenson <swenson@aoml.noaa.gov>
Subject: Partial Mash Stout
Hi. I'm looking for a little "rule of thumb" guidance for my next partial
mash dry stout effort. I say "rule of thumb" because I am not in a
position to obtain (and interpret!) a variety of malt analyses for this
exercise.
My lautering system allows me to sparge a mash made from a maximum of 5
lbs. of grain. I'd like to add about 1 lb. of roasted barley and 1 lb. of
flaked barley to my mash, but I'm concerned that 3 lbs. of pale malt will
not have the diastatic power to convert the flaked barley.
I'd prefer to use a British malt, but I expect I'd need to cut down to a
3.5/0.5 ratio. I'd guess that I'd be pretty safe with a 3.25/0.75 ratio
using a American pale malt and that 3/1 would be ok if I wanted to use
6-row (which I don't, really).
I guess I just talked myself into using the 3.25/0.75 ratio with American
pale malt, but would appreciate hearing from others who are willing to
share informed opinions with me. Mostly, I just want a good stout.
Thanks in advance.
Mark Swenson
Key Biscayne, FL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 09:40:28 -0500
From: Mark Swenson <swenson@aoml.noaa.gov>
Subject: Smacked Pack Longevity
Mark Tumarkin of Gainesville, FL says:
I know that the older a Wyeast smack pack is, the longer it takes to
start up and swell once you smack it. I've got a question about the
other end of the spectrum. I smacked a very fresh package, it swelled up
very quickly --- and then it sat there (is still sitting there) for over
a week and a half. I was sidetracked by other issues and never got
around to pitching it to a starter. So my question is, how long will the
yeast stay viable once they have used up the nutrients in the small
amount of wort in the smack pack? Would there be any problems in just
doing a starter from the pack at this late date?
Mark:
I had the same thing happen to me about a year ago. I put the swollen
smack pack in the refrigerator for about a month before I was able to
return to it. I simply made a small starter, pitched it in and stepped up
from there. The beer turned out fine. I suggest making a smaller starter
than you are used to. As I recall, I made one of 250 ml (my usual is 500
ml for an ale yeast, which is what this was) and ended up thinking that it
was a little too large (took a little longer to ferment out than a normal
starter). I'd probably back up to 100 ml if I had to do it again.
What are you planning to brew?
Mark Swenson
Key Biscayne, FL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 10:35:52 -0400
From: Joe Rolfe <rolfe@sky.sky.com>
Subject: Wort Recievers, More HSA
from Declerk(via D. Burley)
"As a rule, the wort is not heated immediately after
it is run into the copper [ kettle-DRB]. It is allowed
to stand at a temperature of 70-75C [ 158- 167F - DRB]
till all the spargings have been collected,....<SNIP>
One added reason breweries ranoff into a holding vessel, the
brewkettle is not empty of the previous brew when runoff begins.
Pipelined (better than a 750powerpc) to the max. No sense wrapping up
the brewkettle for more time than needed.
On a side to this (HSA) subject, alot of the older breweries used
lauter grants (so this add to the woes of older commercial breweries
by upping the percentage of wort harmed by HSA). Some still do use
them, but most of the modern *JVNW, DME, PUB* mfgrs dont use them in a
standard install. Some of the better German Mfgs (Caspar/Shultz and
probably others) do still use them, tradition maybe??. So that blows
the theory I had. More QDA, ehh?? Probably yes.
Big brewers/Art Science:
I dont know if I agree in total with MICHAEL WILLIAM MACEYKA
<mmaceyka@welch.jhu.edu> (good luck on your phd btw, yesterdays post
on the megas). The master brewers at say an A/B plant have loads of
bodies to manage (most of what the sites Brewmaster does is management
- re: Dave Hallows - Merrimack NH, and few others from Siebels). I do
not know the actual count of people down stream from the Brewmaster,
but they must have an army of Assistant Brewmasters who have the
actual brewers (which mostly push buttons and watch gauges) - I think
this job gives the "brewmonkey" definition its gusto.
Bigger brewers deal with differences in supplies by test and blend.
And you must blend everything (diff shipments of grain and esp hops).
These are masters at the art of blending but do it with science. It
all comes down to the final product - Is it within specs??. Some less
well financed micros can not afford the "tests" and the fine line
moves twords art. In better micros taste panels (sorted by sensitivity
of the taster to certain offs) are set up which can be pretty
expensive to manage. In the megas (from rumors I have heard) when
called to a taste panel - you basically drop whatever your doing and
show up (or else). It sure helps to have a hundred bodies onstaff in a
shift.But your abs correct, they dont know everything about beer that
they can feel comfortable.
Joe Rolfe
------------------------------
Date: 07 Jun 1999 09:46:39 -0400
From: RCAYOT@solutia.com
Subject: brewing and ART
I really must jump in here. Brewing, as practiced by homebrewers is
most assuredly ART. I compare homebrewing to cooking, you can create
a recipie, thats art, being creative. But once the recipie is
created, someone else can reproduce that dish by following a given set
of steps. Thats the "science" part, but is the reproduced version the
same as the original? Probably not, it is the inspiration for the
first creation that may have made the original special.
I get an inspiration from talking, drinking or reading about beer,
brewing or something, that often translates into some twist on a
recipie, or process, or treatment that when implemented either adds
to, detracts from or is neutral to the result. I recently tried to
make a dark wheat bock (dunkelweizzenbock?) what I ended up with was
way high in OG, in the doppelbock range. I decided not to dilute the
wort, and the result, while well liked by many, including myself, is
not what had originally inspired me, and thus was in some way
dissapointing. There IS a big role for science in brewing, and that
is to explain the reason things happen the way they do. This also
allows one to predict what might happen without first ever doing it in
practice (applied science or technology). But do not get confused,
the so called experiments published here and in BT are very good for
homebrewers to read, but it is not science! These experiments are
done once, and without some idea of how reproducible the results are
the experiments are of marginal scientific value.
Oh well, probably shouldn't have gone on this long.... Keep on
brewing, and creating..
Roger Ayotte
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 10:04:16 -0500
From: "Kensler, Paul" <paul.kensler@wilcom.com>
Subject: lambic experiences
Hi Jim,
I have made a couple of lambics, and both turned out very tasty - here's
what I did:
Both were single infusion (about 150F for 60 min. mash) recipes, using 2-row
malt and torrefied (raw) wheat (50/50%). Both used American Ale yeast as
the primary yeast strain, and both were fully fermented in one vessel (a 7g.
carboy). Each batch used GWKent Pediococcus and Brettanomyces special
cultures.
The first batch, I pitched the ale yeast first, then added the ped. and
brett. after the fermentation was complete. I used a starter for both the
ped. and the brett., plus pitched in some dregs from a Cantillon bottle.
The recipe I used also called for some crystal malt. This batch took quite
a while to fully ferment and develop the sour and horsey flavors, and still
had some sweetness (probably from the crystal). It is full-bodied (for a
lambic) and very fruity.
The second batch, I pitched the ale, ped. and brett. cultures (plus some
more Cantillon dregs) all at the same time. I used a starter for the ale
yeast, but not for the special cultures. I didn't use any crystal in this
batch. The fermentation seemed to be complete much more quickly, with the
beer developing the characteristic lambic flavors sooner. I also observed
that the pellicle was much thicker and fast-growing than the first batch.
Although 1 year younger than the first batch, the second batch has a more
mature flavor profile - it tastes like it has been aged longer - it is
drier, more sour, lighter in body and is lacking the crystal sweetness.
I decided not to use starters for the ped. and brett. in the second batch
since they are both very slow-growing. I wasn't sure how I could guarantee
that the whole starter wouldn't get infected with a fast-growing wild yeast
before the ped. and brett. lowered the pH. Plus, pitching them all at once
reduced the number of times I had to open the fermenter or otherwise expose
the fermenting wort to the outside. I used a single fermentation vessel
since I read that the ped. and brett. use dead yeast as a food source. I
took the evidence of a thicker pellicle in the second batch to mean that the
pediococcus had a healthier fermentation - this would make sense, since the
sour flavors are much more pronounced in this batch.
I would recommend picking up the Brewing Techniques articles on homebrewing
lambics if you don't already have them - they were in three issues about 2
years ago - very informative and interesting.
As far as the move goes, I would definitely wait if you think there will be
some hot temperatures - heat destroys beer. If you can keep the temperature
OK, I would recommend you rack the aging lambic over to a smaller vessel (5
gallon carboy or corny keg), so that you can top it up - otherwise, it will
surely be splashing around inside the fermenter, maybe leading to some
oxidization.
Both batches are VERY delicious, and easy to do - this is a great style to
make at home, if you can get used to leaving the batch alone for a year!
Have fun,
Paul Kensler
Plano Plambics, Plano Texas
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 12:21:59 -0400
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew@compuserve.com>
Subject: dextrin(e)s
>>Nathaniel Lansing says he believes Dextrins
>>are what is left when enzymes have done their
>>best to degrade starch.
>>I agree that these beta limit dextrins ( due to
>>the branching of the amylopectins) are a part
>>of the dextrins, but also dextrins are controlled
>>by mashing conditions and therefore some
>>are subject to enzymatic degradation. Alpha
>>limit dextrins can also exist.in the absence
>>of beta amylase.
>>Otherwise, we would not have control over the
>>dextrin content of beer by controlling beta
>>and alpha amylolysis with time and temperature.
I thought that is what I said, thank you for your support.
>>It doesn't surprise me that commercial
>>brewers believe that the only purpose for crystal
>>is flavor and color, since they always add
>>crystal with the rest of the grist
It is for the commercial brewers that the malsters make the product,
not for us homebrewers. So it_may_be safe to assume they malt the
caramels for this type of usage. Remember one of the brewers was
a former malster.
>> if it is true as you postulate
>>that crystal does have only 20% dextrins
>>then it makes sense not to include crystal
>>as a meaningful source of dextrins. What
>>does this mean about the lower kilned
>>crystals like Cara-Pils(r)? Where
>>did you get this number of 20%?
I perhaps wasn't terribly clear in that portion of my post.
By stating a _hypothetical_ number of 20% for dextrin(e)
content of crystal I was trying to show was with an
addition of 10% crystal in a grist the dextrins in the wort
don't rise that much; _if_ caramels were 100% dextrin
then the wort would have an increase of 10% additional
dextrin. Like we've both said in different ways, the way to
dextrinous wort is through mash temperature profile.
About Carapils (r) by Breiss Malting (where this thread began),
it is _made_ to be dextrinous and not degradable, remember that was
the discussion about retrogradation started...
GDP,
>>>Later, during the higher temperature kilning and subsequent cooling,
>>these amylose molcules recrystalize in a process known as
"retrogradation."
>>For reasons not yet known to science, these recrystalized starch
>>molecules are very resistant to enzymatic hydrolysis, and thus do not
>>yield fermentable sugars in the mash tun.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 12:52:05 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman@unisys.com>
Subject: 3rd And Final Notice of BUZZ OFF Competition
Anyone interested in Judging or Stewarding the Buzz Off please
contact
Bob Thomas as soon as possible.
Get those entries in soon.
> The 6th annual BUZZ OFF is scheduled for June 26th and June 27th,
1999 at
> Iron Hill Brewery in West Chester, PA. The BUZZ OFF will again
serve one
> of the Qualifying Events for the Masters Championship of Amateur
Brewing
> (MCAB). Winners in 18 subcategories will qualify to enter in the
MCAB
> national championship round in early 2000. See the MCAB website for
more
> details at: http://brew.oeonline.com/mcab/. The BUZZ OFF
> (http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff/) is also the home of the
> Pennsylvania Club Challenge and the final leg of the Delaware Valley
> Homebrew of the Year competition. The Iron Hill Brewery is in
Downtown
> West Chester, a nice little town to walk around in with several
excellent
> restaurants. Of course we expect to have activities that will
include the
> other breweries in the area such as Victory.
>
> Entries (three bottles) are due at Beer Unlimited, Rts 30&401,
Malvern, PA
> 19355 by June 19th. The fee is $5 per entry. One entry per
sub-category.
> Beer must be brewed by the entrant(s) in their homes; no beers brewed
on
> commercial premises. Questions about entries should be addressed to
Mike
> Cleveland at Beer Unlimited (610) 889-0905. Additional information
about
> the BUZZ OFF can be obtained from the BUZZ web site or by emailing
Beer
> Unlimited at BrewIPA@aol.com.
>
> We're looking for judges and stewards. Judging is to start at 9am on
both
> Saturday and Sunday; participants should be present hour early.
If you
> are interested in judging or stewarding, please contact Bob Thomas
> (rwthomas@chesco.com) at (610) 647-6567.
>
> Additional questions can be directed to the Competition Organizer of
the
> Buzz Off, Chuck Hanning (hanning@voicenet.com) at (610) 889-0396.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:43:03 -0400
From: "Yusko, Jon" <jyusko@rsacom.com>
Subject: White Sugar in Real Ale.
I recently bought the book "Brew Your Own British Real Ale; Recipes for More
Than 100 Brand-Name Real Ales" by Wheeler and Prost and I had a question
regarding the ingredients of the recipes listed. I noticed that many, if not
most, of the recipes call for the addition of "white sugar". There is no
mention of "white sugar" in the ingredient explanation in the front of the
book and was wondering if this white sugar could be recipe substitution for
some other type of sugar or a even misnomer? What I was actually wondering
about, also, is do the British Brewers use white table sugar in their Real
Ale recipes?After reading some of the thoughts and articles about this,
table sugar supposedly imparts a cidery taste into beers. I have spent quite
a bit of time in Britain in the past 6 months, but never noticed ANY cidery
aftertastes in the CC ales. Any ideas or explanations? Thanks in advance.
-Jon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 16:03:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ian Smith <smithi@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Subject: High speed fermentation
Hi all,
I've been lurking for a while, learning bits and pieces here and there,
but this is my first post so please be gentle.
The first few brews that I made were from kits and they turned out OK,
fermentation time was 7 days in primary 7-10 days in secondary. The yeast
from the kit was one of those little packets of dry no-name ale yeast.
I work in a molecular biology lab so I took advantage of a ready supply
of plates and media to streak out the yeast and since I've switched to
extract and specialty grain, I've been using this plate and others I've
made since as my yeast source. I would pick a colony , innoculate a 500
ml starter, and grow it up in the lab at room temp either in a shaker at
220 rpm or with a stir plate. Both methods have produced plenty of
yeast,(roughly 10 g wet cell weight, or 4x10^10 cells) which I would then
pellet and bring home in a 10 ml slurry.
My last batch of beer was pitched Monday night (SG 1.040 23L volume) and
Saturday morning I racked it to the carboy (SG 1.009) and there has been no
visible yeast activity since. So fermentation was complete in about 4
days instead of the 2 weeks previously experienced.
So my questions are:
1. Is there such a thing as adding too much yeast and having too fast a
fermentation, if so what are the possible consequences?
2. Once fermentation has finished is it recommended to bottle right away
or is the beer OK to sit in the carboy for a week or so
3. Does anyone out there have a recipe for a Kilkenny Irish Cream Ale clone?
Thanks in advance
Ian Smith
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 16:49:45 -0500
From: David A Bradley <BRADLEY_DAVID_A@Lilly.com>
Subject: Madison WI Brew Pubs?
Greetings to all. If you have enthusiastic first-hand experience with
any of the brew pubs or beer bars in Madison, please share your
picks of don't-miss with me. I'm headed to Madison for a symposium
next week (6/13 - 6/17) and will be staying on the U of W grounds.
Yes, I've gotten the sterile (sanitized?) notes on destinations via the
web. Also, if you'd like to try and hook up for a few beers and discuss
heavy metals, cereal mashes, 2,3-pentane dione, NOMARKEE, or
even beer, that would be great too! PRIVATE email is preferable.
Dave in Indy
Home of the 3-B Brewery, very ltd and, sadly, in storage for moving!
Hi Pat!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 10:50:05 PM -0600
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------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #3051, 06/08/99
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