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HOMEBREW Digest #2931
HOMEBREW Digest #2931 Mon 18 January 1999
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
HLT for a Brew Pot? (Rod Prather)
Acifiying No-Sparge Water (Ken Schwartz)
Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD. (Rod Prather)
SG rise from priming. (John Varady)
Re: Wyeast #1968 (John Herman)
Bunsen burner ("Lee B.")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:40:40 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr@iquest.net>
Subject: HLT for a Brew Pot?
Anyone who follows a certain path of logic will eventually come up with the
same
questions that have been asked before. Eventually, with enough answers,
similar
conclusions also. So I am sure this question has been raised, I just don't
know
the answer.
For a home brew RIMS, why can't you use the HLT for the brew pot. One less
pot, one less burner, less fabrication. In an RIMS where the mash is heated
by a recirc coil in the HLT you could make a complete system with a single
burner. The only real problem that I see is the cleaning measures required.
If the coil were removable that would be minimal.
Obviously, in a production situation this would put a crimp on the product
flow
but I don't see why you can't do it in a home situation.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 12:20:34 -0700
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Acifiying No-Sparge Water
Mike Rose asks about adding acid during a no-sparge session.
The best time to adjust the pH would be pre-boil, to ensure that all
pH-related effects are accounted for. However, chances are you will not
need to add much if any acid due to the buffering ability of the wort.
Only if the water you're adding is very alkaline would this probably be
necessary. Check the pH before acidifying.
- --
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
kenbob@elp.rr.com
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:04:55 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr@iquest.net>
Subject: Boy was I red: UPDATE. All hail HBD.
Many of you responded to my question about an apparent alergic reaction to a
beer I drank while still in ferment. I bottled it, bottle conditioned,
let it set 5 days and tested the outcome. Well, it doesn't make me red
anymore. It was probably due to something interrim in the fermentation
process. Thanks to all who responded. Probably Fusel alcohols.
In fact it is quite tasty for an extract beer. It resembles a porter. This
is because it was made from 2 cans of 4 year old light malt extract that I
found in my closet added to a pound or so of new amber DME to step up
the ABV in a 5 gallon batch. The extract was very dark due to age,
something I will never be able to duplcate precisely. With the exception
of a bit too much mouth feel, this is probably the tastiest beer I have
ever made. Largely, I feel, due to the hop balance which was more chance
than knowledge.
I'm going to call it U.N. Porter (though it isn't really and ale) because
I mixed German Hallertau, Willamettes and American
Tettnangs. O.G of 1.052 F.G. of 1.015. 1 1/4 oz of Willamettes
at 60 minutes brew and 1/2 oz of Hallertau at 30 minutes. It had a total
IBU of 30 but I added a tea steeped of 1/2 oz of
hallertau at the beginning of fermentation which probably increased that
slightly. I also added a 1/2 oz dry hop of American Tettnang plug at the
end of 4 days fermentation. The dry hop stayed on the beer for 5 days
until
bottling. Yeast? Sorry guys, Coopers dry yeast, sure I broke the
rules but it worked. I haven't progressed to Wyeast yet. Don't know
that I will except maybe to make a Kolsch in the future in honor of
Al K. and maybe a Belgian or two. Don't much care for Weiss or Hefe Weiss.
Thanks to the knowledge base of HBD discussions I feel that I now have a
solid basis for brewing principles. I know I've made some stupid statement
in the last few months but I send my thanks to all of you who aided
my knowledge. Note: No fruit flies were added.
Nostrovia to HBD......
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:31:47 -0500
From: John Varady <rust1d@usa.net>
Subject: SG rise from priming.
Expected rise in SG from priming:
My trusty Bottle Priming Calculator tells me that 5 gallons of beer at 60F
contains 1.05 volumes of co2 already. To carbonate to 2.5 volumes, I need
to prime with .2238 lbs (101.54 grams) of corn sugar or .1791 lbs (81.23
grams) of cane sugar.
Using a specific gravity contribution of 1.037 for corn sugar and 1.046 for
cane sugar;
Corn Sugar : .2238 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6565 points
Cane Sugar : .1791 lbs X 46 points / 5 gallons = rise of 1.6475 points
I just weighed 3/4 corn sugar at .3152 lbs (143 grams). This yields:
.3152 lbs X 37 points / 5 gallons = rise of 2.333 points
This would result in a carbonation level of 3.10 volumes in the 5 gallons
of 60F beer we wish to prime. This is why it's better to weigh your priming
sugar.
John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady
Boneyard Brewing The Home Brew Recipe Calculating Program
Glenside, PA ***> rust1d@usa.net
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:19:57 -0500
From: John Herman <johnvic@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wyeast #1968
I had used Wyeast #1968 on three occasions for an ESB. I also emailed
Wyeast about the need to rousing. They said you don't need to, but that
your FG should be a couple of points higher than usual. I was not happy
with the results. I found the ale to be too sweet. Now, this was
before I started aerating with an aeration stone, which has greatly
helped my beers.
My advice is that, unless you properly aerate, don't use this yeast.
John Herman
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:58:30 -0800
From: "Lee B." <leeb@iea.com>
Subject: Bunsen burner
Looking for a bunsen burner for yeast manipulations. I assume a bunsen is
preferrable to an alcohol burner? Any good sources welcome.
I would like to connect the bunsen burner to a standard non-refillable
propane cartridge. Anyone know where to get the proper connections? Is this
safe?
TIA
_____________________________________________
Lee B.
leeb@iea.com
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2931, 01/18/99
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