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HOMEBREW Digest #2871
HOMEBREW Digest #2871 Mon 09 November 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Response to discussion about OLD MALT (Fred M. Scheer) (Fred Scheer)
Response to an earlier posting: INFECTIONS THROUGH DRY HOPPING (Fred Scheer)
Response to questions at: Homebrew Digest #2869 (November 06, 1998) (Fred Scheer)
re:Flaked barley/flaked wheat (ThomasM923)
Preservative qualities of hops? (Tidmarsh Major)
Malting - rootlet (culm) seperation (Dan Listermann)
Re: Cold Fermenting (Jeff Renner)
pronounciation of wort (Stephen Cavan)
Fermenting too long? ("Jim McZLusky")
racking off cold trub? (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
Re: Fluid flow dynamics in a lauter tun ("Brian Dixon")
Bells Expedition Stout (Mike Walker)
Clerer Wort / Yeast Culturing (keith christiann)
Heating mode (fridge)
Mash in space? ("Ludwig's")
Ommegang Abbey Ale (Brad Johnson)
RE: to RIMS or not to (MaltHound)
Richmond Brewpubs ("Lewis, Tim HSD")
Lagering without a fridge (ThomasM923)
Cultivating Yeast From The Bottle (Jack and Toni Haefner)
I now pronounce thee... (pbabcock)
The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
new Wyeast ready-to-pitch packs (Charles Epp)
Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
Send your entries in for Hoppiest Event On Earth yet?
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 20:22:27 -0700
From: Fred Scheer <maltster@marsweb.com>
Subject: Response to discussion about OLD MALT (Fred M. Scheer)
All malts that are made from sound brewers barley
can be stored for long periods of time without
detrimental effect to flavor provided the moisture level
in the stored malt is kept low ( 4 - 4.5%). Moisture levels
that exceed 13.5% make conditions ripe for infestation
and mold growth. The same applies for specialty malts.
I have never heard of staling of properly stored malt, even for
malt that has been properly stored for up to one year.
One thing does come to mind when the term "staling" of
malt is used, is that malt made from very high protein barley
reduces the "mellowness" of the malt produced and this
could be interpreted through taste testing as a "staling" flavor.
Fred M. Scheer
MALT MONTANA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 21:53:58 -0700
From: Fred Scheer <maltster@marsweb.com>
Subject: Response to an earlier posting: INFECTIONS THROUGH DRY HOPPING
In an study made by jean-Xavier Guinard et al (The Microbiology
of Dry Hopping, MBAA Technical Quarterly, Vol. 27, pp.83 - 89,
1990),they concluded that the microflora of different hops used in their
study comprised yeast's and bacteria. The yeast's found where described
as strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Candida and Cryptococcus
neoformans. The bacteria found was described as Enterobacteriacea
along with some non-enteric gram-negative rods and some gram-positive,
catalase positive rods. They concluded (after they found all the above
mentioned yeast's and bacteria) that the results suggest that the
practice
of dry-hopping is microbiologically safe, especially after three days
of fermentation. If some of you would like to have a copy of the study,
please call the MBAA office ( [414] 774 - 8558 ) or e-Mail
( channer@mbaa.com); ask for Ms. Hanner and give her the above T.Q.
number.
Fred M. Scheer
MALT MONTANA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:08:22 -0700
From: Fred Scheer <maltster@marsweb.com>
Subject: Response to questions at: Homebrew Digest #2869 (November 06, 1998)
Eric Fouch asked:
Subject: Re: Woodruff
.....has anybody heard of using woodruff in beer or mead?
Alan, Woodruff is mixed with Berliner Weisse. The Woodruff is mixd into
the Weiss bier before serving to the customer. As much as I know,
the ratio is 2/3 Weiss Bier and 1/3 Woodruff. It is very refreshing when
sitting in the summer in the Berliner Alee's and enjoing the sun.
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 06:12:50 -0500 (EST)
From: LEAVITDG@SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU WROTE:
Subject: flaked barley/ or flaked wheat (head retention): question
Darrell, the best results with head formation and head retention I made
by
using, as example, 3% in PILSENER, 5% in DUNCKEL [DARK] Beers,
and 10% in BOCK BEERS.
Fred M. Scheer
MALT MONTANA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 01:43:44 EST
From: ThomasM923@aol.com
Subject: re:Flaked barley/flaked wheat
Darrell-
I recommend flaked barley. I've never really liked the taste of wheat very
much, but I used to use it in small quantities (~.5 lb.) for head retention.
If you want to get a really creamy, long-lasting head, try using about .75 lb.
to 1 lb. of flaked barley. It does contribute a very subtle dry(?) flavor but
it is not as noticable as wheat. I have had good results with it, however I do
think that there is an increased chance for chill haze (wheat can throw a haze
also) in a non-lagered beer. The beers that I've used it in were lagered for
at least 1 month which took care of the haze.
Thomas Murray
Maplewood, NJ
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 08:41:10 -0600
From: Tidmarsh Major <tidmarsh@mindspring.com>
Subject: Preservative qualities of hops?
Greetings, all.
I was at my local homebrew shop yesterday picking up some hop pellets
for making yeast starters, and discussed with the proprietor whether
high-alpha or low-alpha hops were more preservative for a fixed weight,
or whether alpha acids levels had any relation to preservative qualities
at all. Considering that old hops, which have no aroma, flavor, or
bittering left, are used as a preservative in Lambics, we came to the
tentative conclusion that alpha acids don't relate to preservative
ability. However, a recent recipe posted here for malt agar plates
recommended hop oils to achieve a certain IBU level, implying a
relationship between alpha acids and preservative qualities. The
question remains, then, what provides the preservative qualities of the
hop, and what exactly are those preservative qualities? I've seen
references all over the place that say hops _are_ preservative, but none
the say _why_ or _how_.
What say ye?
Cheers,
Tidmarsh Major
Birmingham, Alabama
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:24:51 -0500
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707@compuserve.com>
Subject: Malting - rootlet (culm) seperation
I have found a very good way to do this, but it may take a bit of
domestic
diplomacy or stelth. Make a bag out of a material that is very durable.
I
use a pant leg from a pair of jeans that my wife out grew ( potential
social mistake here ). Turn it inside out and wire one end shut. Turn
it
right side out. Put about 5 lbs of malt in it and tie it shut more than
once. I use stelth. I wait until "She Who Must Be Obeyed" is absent
from
the house and chuck the bag into the domestic dryer for about a half
hour.
After that I just sive the broken culms away on my screen box.
Dan dan@listermann.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:25:28 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Cold Fermenting
"Kelly C. Heflin" <kheflin@lucent.com> is worried about a slow lager
ferment in a temperature controlled fridge.
The fact that it has a thick kraeusen is a good sign. Cold lager ferments
never go at the rate of a warm ale ferment. You almost certainly
underpitched by ideal standards (1+ fl. oz. thick sedimented yeast
solids/gallon), but since you made a starter, you're probably OK. A 10-14
day ferment is rather typical for me at 48F even with a decanted one gallon
starter/8 gallon wort, although with sufficient yeast (repitched is about
the only way to get this much), I get 7-8 days, at which point it's almost
stopped bubbling and I start to lower the temperature 2F/day to 32 F for
lagering. Of course, if you need a diacetyl rest for your yeast, you would
do this just at the end of the ferment while there is still a little
bubbling.
43F in the fridge is nothing to worry about as long as the beer is not that
cold, and even then, it will probably work. Is your fridge outside or in
an unheated garage? If so, you may have a problem that could be addressed
with a small light bulb or heating element on a temperature controller, but
be sure to turn off the compressor. Otherwise, I suspect you're OK.
Keep the faith. Lagers are worth the wait.
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:39:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Stephen Cavan <cavanst@duke.usask.ca>
Subject: pronounciation of wort
As a new brewer I immediately started pronouncing words such as "wort" as
Papazian suggested. But pronouncing "wort" as "wert" drew some stares
from people in the English Deptarment at the Univeristy. Of course they
dont' know brewing terms, do they? After being challenged about the
Papazian pronounciation, I checked the OED (Oxford English Dictionary) and
what did I find? The pronounciation is wort with a long "o" sound.
One could sneek in a long "e" sound, a "weert" maybe, which would be
closer to the Old English form, but that seems a long way to go just to
avoid telling people you have to go now to sparge your wort. I like to say
this phrase when ever possible in public.
Cheers, Steve
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:12:50 -0800
From: "Jim McZLusky" <crash@pgh.net>
Subject: Fermenting too long?
I brewed a doppelbock back on 10/18...pitched a Wyeast American Lager at
around 55-60 Deg. with an OG of 1.060....it has been fermenting in the
fridge at around 40 degrees ever since. I checked last night and I'm STILL
getting some bubbling in the airlock every 10 seconds or so. The only thing
I did that I AM concerned about is I transferred to secondary after the
first week because I had such a huge amount of hop pellet residue in it and
was worried it might produce some off-taste being in the fermenter so long.
Anyways,is this length of time for fementing normal or should I be
concerned?TIA
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:48:22 -0700
From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter@bitterroot.net>
Subject: racking off cold trub?
For the lager brewing experts I have this question: To rack or not to rack
wort off of the cold break trub layer before primary fermentation?
In my many trials and tribulations of lager brewing I have employed variety
of techniques:
1. Force cool wort, rack into primary fermenter, oxygenate, pitch yeast
2. Force cool wort, rack into settling tank, oxygenate, pitch yeast,
allow contents to settle 6-8 hours, rack off trub layer into primary
fermenter
3. Force cool wort, rack into settling tank, allow contents
to settle 6-8 hours, rack off trub layer into primary fermenter,
oxygenate, pitch yeast
My best Bohemian-style pilsener was made using technique #2 but it
considerably lengthened the lag phase. I've also had success with technique
#3 but the cooled wort sits in my fridge for an extra 6-8 hours without the
bacteria fighting yeast doing its thing. I've read a myriad of opinions on
this subject (most notedly from Dave Miller in BT and his HB book), but it
seems each technique has its drawbacks. The practical part of me says to
just cool the wort and pitch the yeast but I've brewed some lagers with
this technique that have resulted in some noticeable but hard to define off
flavors (not as "clean" tasting). What do you all think?
Dan Ritter <ritter@bitterroot.net>
Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery - Hamilton, Montana
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:40:06 -0800
From: "Brian Dixon" <mutex@proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Fluid flow dynamics in a lauter tun
This thread has been great ... why don't you guys (or John) get together and
write an article for BrewingTechniques. It's easy. Just contact Deb Jolda
at editor@brewtech.com.
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:44:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Walker <doplbock@yahoo.com>
Subject: Bells Expedition Stout
All,
I am looking for info on reproducing the wonderful Imperial Stout
brewed by Bells called Expedition Stout. Their web site gives a target
OG of 1.105 and 10 percent ABV, but not much else to go on. Thus far a
search of the web has been fruitless. Anybody have more detail about
the grain bill and hopping of this beer?
Thanks,
Mike Walker
Mesa, AZ (a hell of a long way from Jeff Renner)
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 14:57:23 -0800 (PST)
From: keith christiann <kchris1@lausd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: Clerer Wort / Yeast Culturing
Brewers
With a new born keeping me up at night I seem to have more time to
think... Instead of worrying about work, school, being a daddy... I have been
thinking of brewing. Some of my questions are below.
George D. and others have stressed the importance of clear runn off from
the mash. What is a "clear run off"? With my Easy Masher, after about 1
or 2 cups, it is free of chunks of grain but is cloudy. Should I continue to
recirculate it until you can see clearly throu it?
Also thinking of how to get a clearer wort in the fermentor... After the boil,
should I pull my emersion chiller out, stir to get the trub in the center, or
let trub naturally settle and continue to drain through my Easy Masher?
A few questions about yeast.
I bought some 10ml tubes of wort for making starters off slants. I have one
tube that has been enoculated for probably a year and the other tube that
has not been enoculated. Both tubes are clear, except one has yeast
sediment on the bottom.
If they are brilliantly clear, are they still good as long as I get a good start
from them?
I also have an old pack of 2112 which I found in the back of my frig with a
date of May 24, 1995! If it swells, will it produce a good beer, just take a
bit longer to wake up?
It is time to reculture my slants. Is it good practice to go from one slant to
another, or should I take a loop full from a 10ml starter to streak the slant?
Thanks
Keith
Chatsworth CA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 21:08:42 -0500
From: fridge@kalamazoo.net
Subject: Heating mode
Greetings folks,
In HBD#2870, Brad Plummer asked about temperature controllers
and their use for heating and/or cooling.
The Ranco controller I use has a single pole, double throw relay as
its output, so power is sent through the normally open contact when
the controller calls for cooling, and through the normally closed
contact when the temperature reaches setpoint. The mode can be
switched from heating to cooling via the controller touchpad. One
only needs to unplug the freezer from the controller, plug in a heat
source, and switch the controller into heating mode.
Ranco also makes a two stage version of the ETC controller that
looks like it could be wired to heat or cool as needed without
changing modes or plugging/unplugging anything.
The Johnson A19 controllers can also be wired fo either heat or
cool. One only needs to remove the wire attached to the "close on
rise" terminal and attach it to the "open on rise" terminal and plug a
heating device into the controller.
I have heard from folks who have used light bulbs and various other
heat sources in fridges and freezers. I tried using a small light bulb,
but it didn't last very long and I had to shield the carboys from the
light. I finally wired up an old carafe heater element from a junk
coffee maker with an incandescent lamp dimmer. I can plug it into
my temperature controller when I need heat and the dimmer allows
me to adjust its heat output.
It's messy, but I've had good luck with placing carboys in a tub of
water and setting up a small aquarium heater to warm the water in
the tub. It's cheap and effective.
One last thing... If a fridge or freezer is used in a situation where
the ambient temperature is more than a few degrees cooler than the
cabinet temperature, do not attempt to run the compressor until the
compressor is warmed above the cabinet temperature for at least 12
hours. The reason for this is that the refrigerant will tend to
accumulate in the coolest part of the system. If the compressor is
cooler than the cabinet, refrigerant may collect in the compressor
crankcase. Refrigerant is an excellent solvent and will dilute the oil.
When the compressor is started, the pressure in the crankcase
quickly drops, and the refrigerant will flash into vapor as it is drawn
into the compression chamber/s.
There are two problems with this. The refrigerant will carry the oil
with it, leaving the compressor without lubrication, or even worse,
the compressor will try to compress a liquid slug of oil/refrigerant,
which will quickly destroy it.
Compressor crankcase heaters are available for situations where a
compressor must be located in a cold location.
Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo
fridge@kalamazoo.net
The FridgeGuy is now online! Check out http://www.hbd.org/fridgeguy
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 23:09:04 -0500
From: "Ludwig's" <dludwig@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Mash in space?
Scott Murman says:
> Lauter Dynamics 101. Good stuff. One experiment is worth a thousand
> theories.
I agree that the experiments are great, but I just have to disagree with
the thousand theories stuff. I think that probably a fair amount of
homebrewers had already intuitively figured this out, and that is by
theorizing. But no doubt it's really interesting to see it in
experiment.
> Also, in any model of this process the driving force is gravity, and
> only gravity. Unless you typically mix your grain bed, there isn't an
> energy potential except for gravity, hence there is only one possible
> direction for the potential gradient - down.
Tell that to John Glenn.
Scott, you and I have conversed on this several times and I think that
we probably are not really in disagreement but you keep trying to pin
this all on gravity and seem to be in denial that there can be a
pressure gradient in the mash in any direction except down. One way I've
thought of this problem (not that it's a problem) is to imagine the mash
during sparge as being modeled as a bunch of tubes. Assuming you have a
central exit point in the center/bottom of the mashtun, the total head
loss due to friction in the tubes will be higher in the tubes further
from the center/bottom point. So take a horizontal slice through the
mash tun at some arbitrary point and measure the static pressure (Ps) of
the fluid and you'll find that the Ps is highest at the outer area of
the mash and lowest in the center above the central collection point. So
if you instantaneously remove the tubes, the liquid will flow towards
the center of the mash because there is a static pressure gradient from
the outer areas to the center. This is not a perfect model, of course,
but is useful in visualizing what's going on in the mash during sparge.
Dave Ludwig
Flat Iron Brewery
SO MD
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 08:18:38 -0600
From: Brad Johnson <bjohnson@berkshire.net>
Subject: Ommegang Abbey Ale
I've just had my first bottle of Ommegang's Abbey Ale and found it
remarkable. It has caused me to want to finally brew a Belgian style
ale. Any ideas for recipe formulation, for anyone familiar with this
beer? I am considering culturing from a bottle. I found a post on the
forum (?AK) that indicated they repitch their yeast, which should mean
this approach would be fruitful. According to their website, they use
"high temp open fermentation".
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 08:53:00 EST
From: MaltHound@aol.com
Subject: RE: to RIMS or not to
In HBD 2969 "Thomas Kramer" <tkramer@monad.net> asks questions about RIMS use.
A RIMS system is a mashing system and is not related whatsoever to use of a
false bottom in the brew kettle used for removing spemt hops post boil.
To directly answer your question about removing hops, try adding some plumbing
on the interior of your brew kettle (half barrel keg) to take suction from
about 1/2 inch above the concave bottom of the keg. Then by fitting a metal
mesh filter over the end, such as the oft specified "Chore Boy" copper scrubby
thingies (they also come in stainless BTW) , you will get satisfactory hop and
trub removed without plugging up the exit port. I would advise you to use
whole hops vs. pellets as these make a much better trub filter in the kettle.
As to your other question:
"I guess my question is what did you gain by using RIMS, if it's just
efficiency, it seems to me it would just as easy to use more grain."
Efficiency is only one of the (less important) gains of recirculation mashing,
but I would say it is not so much increased *yield* (I prefer this term to
efficiency) as it is "predictability" of yield. The more important attributes
of recirculated mashing (RIMS, HERMS, etc.) are:
Relatively uniform heat distribution within the mash.
Crystal Clear wort delivered to the kettle with no additional vorlaufing time.
The additional features gained by using the more traditional RIMS system (R.
Morris, et al) that has the heating element that is electronically controlled
are:
Accuracy of attaining and holding mash temperatures
Ability to increment mash temps (step mashing) without dilution of mash
enzymes
Repeatability of mash schedules
and most importantly... Wicked easy and fun to use!!
Some RIMS detractors claim that it is detrimental in a couple of ways. They
claim:
Pumping wort continuously throughout the mash may cause HSA.
Overheating of the wort in the heating chamber may cause denaturing of enzymes
I have found neither of these claims to be an issue. My wort return manifold
is submerged in wort and is a modified "H" style which has 8 outlet pipes.
Dividing the total flow by 8 has the effect that the wort velocity at the
outlets is pretty minr and not a lot of sloshing of the wort takes place.
I take care to keep the wort flow fairly high during any time that the heater
is on therby minimizing the actual temperature rise of the volume of wort that
is in the heater chamber and ensuring that the enzymes in that wort are not
damaged.
Since converting from infusion mashing to RIMS I have not experienced either
HSA related staling or any failure of conversion that might be indicative of
these two issues.
One shortcoming that is a real issue in these systems is that it takes some
amount of time to increment temperatures between steps. This is dependant on
the heating capacity of the system and the mass of the grist being mashed. On
my particular system I can heat a 5 gallon sized mash (~10 lbs grain and 15
qts of water) pretty rapidly. I have observed increments of 2-3 deg F per
minute. This equates to 10 minutes to get from a 132 deg protein rest to a
152 deg sachrification temp. Not bad at all.
However, doubling the batch size to 10 gallons also halves the temperature
ramp rate and doubles the time for the same step to about 20 minutes. I would
say that this is the practical limitation of my system. Obviously, single
temperature mashes are no problem and the time to ramp up to mashout temps is
of no consequence. Also, though a 20 minute ramp time may be less than
optimal, it is extememly predictable and repeatable and can be compensated for
to some extent in recipe formulation.
Also, I do reside (and RIMS mash) in Southern New Hampshire but I am east of
you in Londonderry (near Manchester). You are welcome to drop me a line if
you'll be in the neighborhood sometime and take a gander at my set-up.
Cheers,
Fred W ills
Fearless Freddies Half Barrel Brewer
Londonderry, New Hampshire
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:36:53 -0500
From: "Lewis, Tim HSD" <LEWISTI@hsd.utc.com>
Subject: Richmond Brewpubs
To Nathan Kanous who asked:
>>>Going to be in Richmond VA on Nov 16th. Any good brewpubs to check
out?<<<
I have never been there but there is an excellent site I have used often
recently call www.pubcrawler.com which has a template to type it your
city of interest and up comes a listing (with reader reviews!) of all
microbreweries, brewpubs, and beer bars in the area. A quick check
shows that there are several in Richmond to keep you busy. I just used
this page for a trip to Phoenix and it really made it worthwhile. Good
luck!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 14:20:57 EST
From: ThomasM923@aol.com
Subject: Lagering without a fridge
John,
I have lagered in a styrofoam box for a couple of years and have had good
results with this method. I built it out of 2" thick styrofoam and covered it
with the type of insulation that goes on the outside of new houses. It is
about a half inch thick and covered on both sides with foil.
I keep some liter bottles of water in the freezer and replace the ones in the
lager box every day. Once I reach lagering temp, I only have to replace two or
three per day, with a grand total of four to five in the box. I am able to
easily maintain a temp at around 38-40 degrees F with a ambient temp of around
59-65 degrees F. The only drawback is getting yourself into the routine of
running down into your basement every morning to replace the bottles of ice.
Thomas Murray
Maplewood, NJ
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:26:26 +0100
From: Jack and Toni Haefner <haefnerj@email.grafenwoehr.army.mil>
Subject: Cultivating Yeast From The Bottle
082015-Nov-98
In response to George De Piro's message (Harvesting yeast from bottled
beers, #2869), I have a small bit of advice which homebrewers may find
helpful. Although it is very possible if you are close to the brewing
source, you may encounter problems in beers imported into the US. I am not
positive, but I've heard many are pasteurized to satisfy customs
regulations.
That being said, I did effectively cultivate a culture from a Maisel's
Weisse here in Germany with OK results the first time (the brewery in
Bayreuth refused to give me a yeast sample, so I thought I'd get it from a
bottle). My second time using the same bottle cultured yeast was
unspectacular. The moral is to be sure of the brewing process before you
cultivate-I later read that Maisel's (among many) brews their weizen with a
obergaerige (top fermenting) yeast, but then adds a untergaerige (bottom
fermenting) yeast for the lagering stage. What I probably cultivated was a
combination of both which didn't work well in either of the extremes. I'm
no expert in Chimay for fear the Reinheitsgebot police cart me away, but
heed the warning before you experiment
CPT Jack & Toni Haefner
535th En Co (CSE)
CMR 415, Box 4042
APO AE 09114
Grafenwoehr, Germany
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:51:25 -0500 (EST)
From: pbabcock <pbabcock@mail.oeonline.com>
Subject: I now pronounce thee...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your linguist...
Someone asked for some pronunciations...
Trub - trube
Wort - wert, woart or wart but usually wert
Vorlauf - vorloff
Sparge - sparj
Spargate - spar-get
Diacetyl - die-ass-it-il, die-ass-eat-il, die-uh-set-ul usually the first,
rarely the last
Decoction - dee-cok-shun
Hmmmm. Can't think of anything else at the moment.
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@oeonline.com
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html
"Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..."
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Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:47:02 -0600
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@ames.net>
Subject: The Jethro Gump Report
The Jethro Gump Report
If the following info is redundant, having been previously posted by
others, I apologize.
The Practical Brewer..... While the new edition of the PB has not yet been
published, (it is due out in the beginning of the new year, all going
smoothly) brewers wishing to acquire a secondhand copy of the 1st edition
can find one @ www.bibliofind.com. This is a great resource for difficult to
find and/or rare books. I found a paperback copy of the unauthorized Busch
family "Under The Influence,......." for just a few dollars, and a copy of
the 1946 edition of PB, signed by a brewing instructor to one of his
students in the fifties, for 15 bucks, and 5 $ for shipping.
Looking @ bibliofind today, I see that there are about 7 or 8 copies of the
first edition, and a few of those are from the 1946 1st printing. Prices
range from 27.50 and up, but some haggling might be employed here.
But for the real deal, www.mbaa.com/publication.html allows the
downloading of the book, chapter by chapter.
SF BP's.....In Frisco for the BP convention and would appreciate local
recommendations for 'must-see' brewpubs....Thanks
Cheers!
Jethro Gump
"The More I Know About beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
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Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 16:33:41 -0600
From: Charles Epp <chuckepp@ukans.edu>
Subject: new Wyeast ready-to-pitch packs
Hi all. I'm curious about peoples' experiences with the new Wyeast
super-packs, which are supposedly ready to pitch (after an initial
12-hour incubation period) without using a starter. I used one
yesterday (Wyeast 1318), and signs of active fermentation in the carboy
were evident after about 18 hours. That's still a pretty long lag by my
book, and I'll hesitate to use these things again without a starter
unless my experience is fairly unique. Have any of you tried pitching
directly from the pack to the carboy with these things, and, if so, how
long have your lags been? --Chuck in Lawrence, KS
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #2871, 11/09/98
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