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HOMEBREW Digest #2883

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 8 months ago

HOMEBREW Digest #2883		             Tue 24 November 1998 


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
feeding weizen (Michael Rose)
Westmalle Triple Yeast (SCHNEIDERB)
Using Extract to Acidify Sparge Water (Ken Schwartz)
Re: . . . pronounce . . . (Rod Schaffter)
Re: Aluminum open fermentors (Jeff Renner)
re: Zima/Clear Beer (Jeff)
Heart of Wortness (Vachom)
RE: Ron West/Weizen Changing Character (Bob Sheck)
Lactose (John_E_Schnupp)
Re: Aluminum open fermentors/I hate carboys (Chad Bohl)
Pronounciation of Willamette (Dan Schultz)
Re: Kraeusen pronunciation? (Danny Breidenbach)
easy HLT with a sight glass (Peter.Perez)
bottoms for Mash Tun with Burner.... (Badger Roullett)
pronounce -PNW (Badger Roullett)
Wil-LAM-ette ("Hans E. Hansen")
re: Weizen Changing Character (Ronald Babcock)
yeast storage test/zima cloning (Jim Liddil)
thermometer calibration (revisited) (Herbert Bresler)
ALuminum open fermenter, Kraeusen pron. ("David R. Burley")
Regarding Lauter Tun Flow and Darcy's Law (John Palmer)
Metalic flavor ("Steinkamps")
Rhymes with Dammit (Tim Anderson)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 22:00:32 -0800
From: Michael Rose <mrose@ucr.campuscw.net>
Subject: feeding weizen

I'm so happy that the collective is so tolerable of stupid ideas. Lets
push those limits once again.

Would it be possible to feed a hefe-weizen? Every week add a teaspoon
of wheat extract to keep the yeast in suspension and keep the banana,
clove-like characters of this beer???????

Mike Rose Riverside, CA mrose@ucr.campuscw.net


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:28:40 -0500
From: SCHNEIDERB@morganco.com
Subject: Westmalle Triple Yeast

I am wondering what yeast is in the bottle of this beer. Do they use the
same yeast in bottle conditioning from the fermentation, or is it another
used just for bottling? I was thinking of growing it up after reading about
the Chimay yeast propogation. - bas


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:04:31 -0700
From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob@elp.rr.com>
Subject: Using Extract to Acidify Sparge Water

Jason Gorman asks:

"I read somewhere that adding a small amount of DME to the sparge water
will
increase the acidity and help out the sparge. I could not find it in
the
archives. Does anyone remember this? Does it really help? What is the
of
DME to water ratio?"

I posted the results of an experiment I did in conjunction with some
work on partial-mashing, which showed that adding 1 tablespoon of dry or
liquid extract per gallon of ION-FREE water (like distilled or RO)
establishes a pH below 6.0. Recall that wort (even extract wort) has a
pH in the low 5's, so if the water has little buffering power, extract
can act as an "acid" -- it's kinda like a snapshot of the chemistry of
the mash that it was made from. Keep in mind that if you try this with
"tap" water it may still work but will probably take a LOT more extract.

- --
*****

Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
kenbob@elp.rr.com
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:37:11 -0500
From: Rod Schaffter <schaffte@delanet.com>
Subject: Re: . . . pronounce . . .

John Asks:

> A recent visitor to the Pacific northwest tells me that the local
> pronunciation of "Willamette" in that area is more like will-LAM-met
> than the will-lam-ETTE I had expected. Can anyone verify this?


My wife grew up in Albany, OR, which she says in on the banks of the
"will-LAM-met" River.

Cheers!
Rod Schaffter


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:58:44 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Aluminum open fermentors

"Jim" Breadnale@aol.com asks
>All this talk about Aluminum kettles makes me wonder what everybody out there
>thinks of using Aluminum for an open fermentor. I claim Ignorance (happily) on
>the science of Aluminum and it's contribution to Boiling wort/Fermenting beer.
>Just looking for a simple answer. Whatddayathink? I'm looking for a good open
>fermentor.

I use my 10 gallon aluminum sparge water heating vessel to ferment my ales
in all the time. I love it. It's already sanitized at the end of a brew
since I boiled sparge water in it. This makes skimming of crud and
harvesting of top cropping yeast easy, and the valve makes transfer easy.
I generally use the lid, but sometimes use a wide sheet of plastic wrap so
I can see the fermentation. I figure open fermenting does not require
actual exposure to environmental nasties.

>Thanks. I have no idea how far Jeff Renner is from me!

Well, the whole idea is to let us know *where you are*, not how far you are
from me.

Jeff

-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:03:25 -0500 (EST)
From: mcnallyg@gam83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil (Jeff)
Subject: re: Zima/Clear Beer


Hi All,

Fred Scheer wrote (quoting Richard Scott):

>>>>>

Zima or.........2-Dog Lemon Brew..........
she has her heart set on clear-near-beer

Richard, I was involved in the making of a lot of clear beer, my
recommendation is to further purchase the products, because it will
be impossible to make that kind of beer at the homebrew level.
We had made pilot brews ( 1 bbl) to see if we could develop some
other CLEAR products.................NO luck.

<<<<<

Someone posted here a while back about filtering a pale ale through
a sub-micron carbon filter and turning their pale ale into a Zima like
brew (ie. it stripped almost all of the color and flavor).

Maybe brewing a light bodied, low hop, blonde/golden ale, filtering
it through a tight carbon filter, adding lemon to taste, and then
force carbonating it would produce something close to Zima. Adding
more lemon would get close to 2-Dog Lemon Brew.

Hoppy brewing,

Jeff

==========================================================================

Geoffrey A. McNally Phone: (401) 832-1390
Mechanical Engineer Fax: (401) 832-7250
Launcher Technology and email:
Analysis Branch mcnallyg@gam83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil
Naval Undersea Warfare Center WWW:
Code 8322; Bldg. 1246/2 http://www.nuwc.navy.mil/
Newport, RI 02841-1708


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:15:56 -0600
From: Vachom <MVachow@newman.k12.la.us>
Subject: Heart of Wortness

Mistah Wort--he dead.

Mike
New Orleans, LA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:24:19 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bsheck@skantech.net>
Subject: RE: Ron West/Weizen Changing Character

Ron-

As a long-time kegger, I too always note the changing character
of a keg of brew will change as time passes. This is a normal
process and is caused by the settling out of the yeast. Yeast
has flavor too- and so do all the solids floating around in there.
As they settle out, you will start to taste other components.
If this troubles you, or you want a more consistant product, then
don't taste (or serve) the brew until you have insured the
majority is settled out- or filter, which to me is not an option!

What I do is enjoy the beer as it comes out of the keg- but I have
learned to drop the temp down to 28 Deg F for three-five days in
order to get the yeast to drop out- 'brightening' is another word
used to describe this. Then raise the temp back up to serving temp.

Also you can rack the beer into a clean corny after this process
so you can transport the keg without worry of stirring up the settled
yeast. Condition as you normally find best results.

Bob Sheck / Greenville, NC
bsheck@skantech.net



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:44:36 -0800
From: John_E_Schnupp@amat.com
Subject: Lactose

Does anyone know the gravity contribution of lactose?
I know it's a non-fermentable but I'm going to add it
during my boil and I like to be able to calculate an
accurate starting gravity. I can find several mentions
of lactose in CP's books but no info on it's pt/lb.

If this is in the archives I apologize. I don't have
a way to search them from home (do I?) as I only have
my e-mail and no www access. One another digest I get
I can search for a keyword and I will be e-mailed a
list of digests that hit. I can then request the
entire digest. Does something like that exist here?
Doing a general search that way is arduous, but when
searching for something very specific works ok.

TIA,
John Schnupp, N3CNL
Colchester, VT
95 XLH 1200




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:16:06 -0730
From: Chad Bohl <chad_bohl@dgii.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum open fermentors/I hate carboys

Rather than getting into the chemistry of what may happen to your beer when
usingvarious metals in the brewing process...

try this... take your clean aluminum pot and a piece of paper, fold the paper a
couple times and rub vigorously on the inside of the pot for about 10 seconds,
then look at the paper (an exaggeration, but this gray gunk is getting into your
beer); to add to this experiment, boil a couple cups of water in your clean
aluminum pot for about 15 min. and then pour the result into your favorite beer
glass, let it cool, look at the color, and taste it...

Some of you may not get the gray paper and water color (and the crappy metallic
taste), but testing your brewing equipment is the best way I know to make sure
it's not adding unwanted nasties into your wort/beer.

~ Chad

> Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:41:04 EST
> From: Breadnale@aol.com
> Subject: Aluminum open fermentors/I hate carboys
>
> Hey,
> All this talk about Aluminum kettles makes me wonder what everybody out there
> thinks of using Aluminum for an open fermentor. I claim Ignorance (happily) on
> the science of Aluminum and it's contribution to Boiling wort/Fermenting beer.
> Just looking for a simple answer. Whatddayathink? I'm looking for a good open
> fermentor.
>
> I switched from the carboy 6 beers ago and am never going back. I never feel
> like I get them clean enough. I'm always afraid of breaking it. My beers are
> better since I switched.
>
> Thanks. I have no idea how far Jeff Renner is from me!
> Jim





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:59:39 -0800
From: Dan Schultz <dschultz@primenet.com>
Subject: Pronounciation of Willamette

From: "John A. MacLaughlin" <jam@clark.net>

>A recent visitor to the Pacific northwest tells me that the
local
>pronunciation of "Willamette" in that area is more like
will-LAM-met
>than the will-lam-ETTE I had expected. Can anyone verify
this?

You got it right John....will-LAM-met

I don't know about "Willamette" but many geographical names
up here are based on the settlers interpretation of the
original American Indian names. Apparently, the early
settlers didn't follow any English pronounciation rules that
I know of when deciding on the spelling of the various
names.

Burp,
-Dan



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:25:46 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <DBreidenbach@nctm.org>
Subject: Re: Kraeusen pronunciation?

Fred ---

Was it old Stroh's commercials that talked about
kraeusening? They said "KROY-sen." It must
be true: I saw it on T.V.

(And wasn't it Stroh's that made a big deal about
being fire-brewed? As if gas flame versus electric
heat makes a difference in anything other than
production costs when the beer is ensconced in
a giant boiler made of aluminum, copper, stainless,
or some space-aged alloy.)

- --Danny
brewing in Ashburn, Virginia --- MUCH closer to
Old Dominion Brewing Co. than to Jeff R.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:25:04 -0500
From: Peter.Perez@smed.com
Subject: easy HLT with a sight glass



You are probably familiar with the large stainless steel coffee dispensers
that most of us have in the break rooms where we work. I just noticed we
have some real nice large ones here where I work, with spigots on them,
sight glasses, they are stainless, and they plug in to heat up water and
maintain the temp. The ones here actually have thermostats on them. Seem
like they would make awesome HLT's to me. Or even a mash tun if you rig a
false bottom or something.

Pete




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:27:13 -0800
From: Badger Roullett <branderr@microsoft.com>
Subject: bottoms for Mash Tun with Burner....

Greeting beer freinds....

This question is about using an EZMasher style (way to go JS on a great
design!) thingy in the bottom of a converted keg kettle (sankey) VS. using a
slotted circular manifold...

Questions: do you get scorching? with either setup. I use a jet style
propane burner, its an outdoor cooker, but i have no idea of the BTU output.
if scorching is a problem, how big a problem is this, and how does it affect
the beer?

Burner question: It has a small square plate that can be swung over teh
flame output. what is this supposed to be used for?

Here are the manifold ideas i am thinking about. (comments?)
1. Easymasher style
2. Circular copper Manifold. (goes around the bottom of the sankey keg
bottom)
3. 3 prong Easymasher style.
4. False bottom? (this is the least thought out, and least likely given my
materials and skills at hand)

Thanks in advance.

***************************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger
Homepage: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger
In the SCA: Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven

"It had to be a linguistics professor who said that it's man's ability to
use language that makes him the dominant species on the planet. That may
be. But I think there's one other thing that separates us from animals. We
aren't afraid of vacuum cleaners." --Jeff Stilson



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:37:26 -0800
From: Badger Roullett <branderr@microsoft.com>
Subject: pronounce -PNW

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 09:09:26 -0500
From: "John A. MacLaughlin" <jam@clark.net>
Subject: Re: . . . pronounce . . .

A recent visitor to the Pacific northwest tells me that the local
pronunciation of "Willamette" in that area is more like will-LAM-met
than the will-lam-ETTE I had expected. Can anyone verify this?

Yup! thats how its pronounced around here. now, just for kicks try your
hand at Puyallup.

:)
*********************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger, Seattle, WA
Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html
Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:54:58 -0800
From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh@teleport.com>
Subject: Wil-LAM-ette

John A. MacLaughlin writes:
<<<
A recent visitor to the Pacific northwest tells me that the local
pronunciation of "Willamette" in that area is more like will-LAM-met
than the will-lam-ETTE I had expected. Can anyone verify this?
>>>

Take it from a 42 year resident: It is pronounced wil-LAM-ette.
FWIW, one of the main hop research facilities in the country
is Oregon State University, located in (you guessed it) the
Willamette Valley. This also helps explain other Northwest hop
names such as Mt. Hood, Cascade, and Chinook. (I don't know if
OSU developed all of the above, but they had their hand in
some of them.) (Also, FWIW, OSU beat U of O Saturday.
Go Beavs.)

Hans E. Hansen
hansh@teleport.com
100 miles south of OSU


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:59:58 -0700
From: Ronald Babcock <rbabcock@rmii.com>
Subject: re: Weizen Changing Character

Ron West asked:

RW> I am a new owner of a Cornelius kegging system. A little less than two
RW> weeks ago I kegged my first batch (a weizen) in the Corny and stored it
RW> at a stable 46 F. under 18 lb. of pressure to condition. After 4 days I
RW> tried it and was immediately impressed by the wonderful banana and
RW> clove-like characters of this beer. This is my first weizen, I've made
RW> several other beers over the past year, always brown ales. Now, just
RW> one week later I am wondering what happened to the banana and clove
RW> notes? It is still a very nice drinkable beer, but the overall
RW> character has changed seemingly overnight.

If your Weizen had good banana and clove aroma to begin with, then your
brewing and fermentation procedure should be fine. As you know a lot of the
flavor profile comes from the yeast. (I assume you used 3068 Weihenstephan
Weizen yeast or a similar Weihenstephen yeast) By kegging the beer instead
of bottling you have no way of swirling the yeast sediment in the keg and
even low flocculating 3068 will settle out over time.

My solution to this problem is to install a SS carbonation stone (ie. the
Carbonator) in the bottom of the keg with a suitable length of tubing to
connect it to the "IN" side of the keg. Every time you dispense a beer co2
will create turbulence in the bottom of the keg via the SS carbonation
stone. This will keep the yeast in suspension and maintain the flavor for a
much longer period of time.

This style of beer should be consumed in a short period of time. In my
experience 8 weeks is the about the limit before noticeable flavor loss.

Cheers, Ron

Ronald Babcock - rbabcock@rmii.com - Denver, CO
Home of the Backyard Brewery at http://shell.rmi.net/~rbabcock/


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:40:58 +0000
From: Jim Liddil <jliddil@azcc.arizona.edu>
Subject: yeast storage test/zima cloning

First about making a zima clone. At Siebel Paul Smith was one of the
people who helped develop zima and talked about it briefly. I then asked
him more questions after class. Others have already posted in the past
about the patented charcoal filtration. Paul could not give me specifics,
so I asked him if I was taking the 10 week course and wanted to make a
zima-like beverage on the pilot system how would I do it. I'll have to dig
up my notes. but essentially one makes a coors light type beer (malt
adjunct etc.) the meashing schedule should be extended along the lines of
that used to make Super Dry beers. Because malt beverage by law has to
have some hops they do add them. But the amount is ridiculously small (it's
in my note some place) One then follows an industrial type lager
fermentation profile. Then the stuff is carbon filtered to remove all
color. Then an FDA apporved antifoam agent is added along with the
appropriate flaovring agents. So that is all you need to do.


On the subject of stroing yeast in water, I believe it was George DePiro
who asked about the actual difference of water vs 2% pottasium monophophate
as far as contamination potential. So I did a little experiment. First of
all let me mention that all solutions were prepared using water from a
Barnstead Nanopure pyrogen free water filatrion system. Many pulications
have pointed out the importance of using very pure water in culture
experiments and this may or may not apply to long term storage of yeast.
One less variable.

I prepared 12 tubes of sterile water and 12 tubes of 2% phosphate solution
(made witht he same water). These tubes wer polystyrene tubes 12 mm in
diamter and 75 mm high, presterilized. I put 0.5 ml of each solution into
each tube. I then placed six of each set of tubes in racks in various
places around two labs. 3 sets of tubes I put in a lminar flow hood as
neg. controls. And 3 sets of tubes I coughed vigourously into as positive
controls. I left the bench test samples and postive controls out for tow
hours and left the negative controls in the hood 2 hours. At the end of
this time I then placed all the tubes in the laminar flow hood and vortexed
the contents to mix them. I then took 200 microliters from each tube and
placed it into a tube of 2 ml YM broth and a tube of 2 ml of MRS. I then
incuabeted the tubes at 30 C for one week. At that time none of the tubes
showed any sign of growth so I left them for another two weeks just to be
sure. As of today none of the samples shows any sign of growth including
the positive controls.

For future experiments the kinetics of the loss of viability of yeast
stored in water and buffer should be studied. Was the loss seen an
immediated effect or was it gradual over the 3 months? Also the experiment
needs to be done using direct culture methods rather than staining.

Jim Liddil


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:44:04 -0500
From: Herbert Bresler <bresler.7@osu.edu>
Subject: thermometer calibration (revisited)

Hello everyone,

I was thinking about my post and realized I left out an important detail.
The detail is this:

It is important to calibrate at more than one temperature. Usually, one
calibrates a thermometer near both ends of the proposed use range. For
brewing you'd calibrate at 95F/35C and 170F/77C, or thereabouts. Ideally
you should also calibrate in the middle, or nearest your most critical
temperature; for brewing, this will probably be about 154F/68C. If your
thermometer reads correctly at all three of these temperatures, than you
can rely on it to give you accurate readings for mashing.

Good luck and good brewing,
Herb
Bexley (Columbus), Ohio




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:47:01 -0500
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: ALuminum open fermenter, Kraeusen pron.

Brewsters,

Jim@breadnale asks for comments on aluminum as an open fermenter.
Like Jim, I prefer open fermenters for the ability to properly clean the

fermenter and also to prevent yeast and protein splooge from pouring
out through a hose which can become a problem in later batches since
the hose is even harder to clean than the carboy. I have used the same
plastic fermenter for years, since I can use straight bleach on it with
abandon to clean it sparkling clean. I never use abrasives, just a paper

towel with bleach on it ( rubber gloves).


Aluminum as a fermenter suffers from the fact that you cannot use
bleach on it since aluminum reacts with the caustic in bleach and it
will corrode quickly. Aluminum is a soft metal and if you use
abrasives, since you can't use bleach, then you will scratch the
aluminum severely. Stick to plastic scrubbies or switch to a 6 gallon
plastic garbage can as I did decades ago.
- -----------------------------------
Fred Johnson asks how to pronounce Kraeusen. I say "kroysen"
The "r" is pronounced in the back of the throat, softly and is not
trilled.

Keep on brewin'


Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Dave_Burley@compuserve.com

Voice e-mail OK


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:29:32 -0800
From: John Palmer <jjpalmer@gte.net>
Subject: Regarding Lauter Tun Flow and Darcy's Law

I apologize for throwing bait in the water and then seemingly walking
away while you discussed it, but work has been incredibly busy here for
the last several weeks.

The discussions on fluid flow, Stokes Flow, Darcy Flow and tidal flow
have been interesting and I have been following them, but have not
chimed in because when it gets down to the small wet details, hydrology
is not my area of expertise. But lately, a couple issues have surfaced
that I can address .

>From my perspective, we as homebrewers are striving toward a two pronged
goal:
1. We want to lauter ALL the grain in the grainbed, and
2. We want to extract ALL of the sugar from the grain that we lauter.

These two goals are independent of each other in many ways. With regard
to the second goal, common sense has told us that slower is better and
anecdotal evidence and some scientific brewing literature by Narziss
seem to back that up.

I wanted to address goal number 1 - How to reach the whole grainbed
(without resorting to a false bottom). It was this goal that drove the
theoretical investigation, yielding R^2=2H^2 and Q=VA. The experiments
were conducted to verify this theory, and when they did not, that's when
the Flow Potential model was constructed. How/Where the flow moved thru
the bed became more important than how the flow moved in relation to the
media (grain).

In my opinion, Darcy and Reynolds Numbers may apply, but they do not
help to predict what parts of the grainbed will receive X percentage of
the total flow (Q). A homogeneous model is not realistic, but looked at
from the other side, how Unrealistic is it? This is the sort of problem
that engineers face all the time. We may not be able to model all of
the conditions that affect the outcome, but we can determine that we
have accounted for 90% of them and can ascertain whether the remaining
variables are significant to predicting the outcome.

In this case, the relative position of the drain(s) in the grainbed is
the clearly the strongest factor in determining how well we lauter (ie.
reach) all of the grain in the grainbed. The factors affecting how well
we extract all of the sugar from that grain may indeed be more dependent
on Darcy and Stokes.
That is a question I will leave to you fluid-heads.

Going back to the experimental results and the potential flow model, Guy
Gregory used the MODFLOW software to move beyond what I could observe.
His results are very interesting. Not only does modflow duplicate the
observations, it is able to show additional information, such as the
fact that a piping manifold will effectively draw (and lauter) from
areas that lie beneath the manifold. This result in good news to those
of us that use a manifold in the concave bottom of sankey kegs and have
to make a compromise at the depth we collect versus the area we cover.
Since this is his work, I will leave it to him to report on more fully.

Isn't science fun?
John

Palmer House Brewery and Smithy
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/

PS. the fluid flow study post is now up at my website, and as soon as I
get some more time, I will append George De Piro's hbd post on false
bottom design to the site, as it really complements the discussion.





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:57:45 -0600
From: "Steinkamps" <EnW_Steinkamp@email.msn.com>
Subject: Metalic flavor

I've had a couple of batches of beer that had a distinct metallic flavor.
The flavor would go away after about three weeks storage, or if the glass
were let to 'breath' for about ten minutes prior to drinking. My last three
batches did not have this flavor. Coincidentally, I ran out of scotch-brite
pads about three batches ago. Since then I have been scrubbing the
converted keg with a wash cloth.

Considering this I am thinking that I may have been removing the oxidation
layer from the keg with the gray scotch-brite. If this were the case, could
it be that the wort was reacting with the stainless somehow to produce the
metallic flavor? Or perhaps, I did not rinse sufficiently after cleaning
and therefore was getting stainless steel oxide in my beer (ackkk!!). Or
worse yet, is there a bacteria that could produce metallic flavors? I don't
think this was bacterial simply because the flavor would go away with time,
but then who knows?

Thanks,

Ed Steinkamp





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:37:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Tim Anderson <timator@yahoo.com>
Subject: Rhymes with Dammit

"John A. MacLaughlin" <jam@clark.net> said this here:
>>>
A recent visitor to the Pacific northwest tells me that the local
pronunciation of "Willamette" in that area is more like will-LAM-met
than the will-lam-ETTE I had expected. Can anyone verify this?
<<<

Yup.

tim
However far the Willamette River is from Jeff, that's how far I am.


==
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------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2883, 11/24/98
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