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HOMEBREW Digest #2890
HOMEBREW Digest #2890 Wed 02 December 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
removable labels... (Badger Roullett)
Cool Weather Questions (Matthew Taylor)
Pronounced dead on arrival... (pbabcock)
REQUEST: Mead Recipe ("Steven)
re:New Thermometer (Charley Burns)
Re: Heat Exchanger details (LaBorde, Ronald)
Phix for phloating phalse bottom (Tad Seyler)
prounoucing SAAZ (Alan Edwards)
Beeston malts? ("Bryan L. Gros")
CO2 (RMerid7682)
Re: Attaching Phils Phalse Bottom ("Bill Splaine")
Re: Victory HopDevil bitter-sweet ("Jim Busch")
New BOSS ("Michael Kowalczyk")
Another virgin looses cherry, R.I.P. (Charles Burns)
ABG schools ("Richard Scott")
Where are you Lambic Digest? ("Rob Jones")
Questions about pressure canning wort (Steve)
Xantippe (Jim Liddil)
re: 240V service, I need a neutral (Jason Henning)
Brewpubs...a dying breed? (Bob Fesmire ) (DGofus)
"kurds" in my beer!( Bob Fesmire) (DGofus)
Recipe exchange format ("NFGS")
Light beer fix? ("Ratkiewich, Peter")
re RIMS vs HERMS (RobertJ)
Re: Phil's Non Phloating false bottom ("Matthew J. Harper")
240V service, I need a neutral (Rod Prather)
Re:240V service, I need a neutral (Seth Goodman)
Re: Old Style; lambic (Rod Prather)
amber ale (scott zimmerle)
Re: 240V service, I need a neutral ("John A. MacLaughlin")
Floating air stones / shops ("Kirk Harralson")
Re: modeling grain (Scott Murman)
Label Help (MaltyDog)
RE: Does Oxygenation with O2 increase lag time? (LaBorde, Ronald)
Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
Send your entries in for the 1998 St.Louis Brews Happy
Holidays Homebrew Competition yet? Details:
http://www.stlbrews.org
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JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:53:56 -0800
From: Badger Roullett <branderr@microsoft.com>
Subject: removable labels...
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 11:18:57 -0800
From: "Brian Dixon" <mutex@proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Removable bottlelabels
>> What is it? 3M brand Spray Mount Artist's Adhesive (white can ... not
the black "Super 77" stuff you
find in many places). If you read the label, you see that it results in
repositionable bonds. You know, like a Post It (tm) note.
I have a related question.. how does it stand up to sitting in a cooler,
with Ice.? that melts after a while, and basically sits in a pool of coold
water with icy chunks in it after a few hours at teh party?
badger
*********************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger
Seattle, WA
Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html
Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html
In the SCA:
Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven, Innkeeper of the Cat and Cup Inn
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 11:56:11 -0800
From: Matthew Taylor <mtaylor@mail.valverde.edu>
Subject: Cool Weather Questions
Hello All,
I got the chance to brew this weekend. It's been so long since
I've done an extract batch a couple of questions came to mind, not
so much about the batch of brew but more relating to the cold
weather. It was down in the "50's" while I was brewing out on my
patio.
The questions, #1: Does the outside temperature effect
evaporation or is the steam just more visible the cooler it gets?
Q#2: When I pitched the yeast, Wyeast Lab's "Wyeast Ale" the
wort had cooled to about 70, the wort got down to 62 degrees after
a cold night (low 40's) in the garage. The yeast took awhile to
get started and now that it has, it all clumps together and looks
like it's coated in a slim. Could this be the Irish Moss or did I
pick up some infection while fermentation was kicking in?
If I could keep my 1 and 3 year old sons out of the brew I'd
bring it inside for awhile to warm up. Will that help?
Thanks for the input
Matt Taylor
Grand Terrace, CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:03:41 -0500 (EST)
From: pbabcock <pbabcock@mail.oeonline.com>
Subject: Pronounced dead on arrival...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
A while back, I threw together a page containing about 90 or so
pronunciations of potentially troublesome brewing terms. They are in .wav
files (Sorry Unix users, I'll save .au copies as soon as I get the
chance.) I had tossed the URL out to a few people in hopes of receiving
some reviews before letting the cat out of the bag, but everyone is busy,
and there's been no input - but a whole lotta discussion on the 'gest. So,
kindly direct your browser to hbd.org/pronunciation and tell me what you
think. Eventually, I'll add phonetic-like guides and a .au or .wav pick.
This is all I've had time for so far. Audio quality may be poor, too,
since I was debugging my soundcard installation at the same time.
Looking for feedback and corrections to fubarred pronunciations in order
to make the site a useful tool for all...
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@oeonline.com
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html
"Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..."
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:18:08 -0500
From: "Steven <aka Automan>" <automan@ici.net>
Subject: REQUEST: Mead Recipe
If someone has a "GOOD" and "TRIED" recipe for making "MEAD"
can you please forward it to me?
Thanx
Steven
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 13:21 PST
From: caburns@egusd.k12.ca.us (Charley Burns)
Subject: re:New Thermometer
George De Piro writes about his new Polder Thermometer: "...<snip> The only
drawback is that the probe cannot be immersed beyond the junction with the
cable.<snip>..."
George, I have a similar thermometer I got from HopTech and recently another
one from the "Cellar" at Macy's. The one from HopTech appears to have a
piece of heat-shrink tubing, about 1" long wrapped around that junction
between the braid and the probe. I plan on going over to radio shack and
getting myself 20 cents worth of the stuff and "waterproofing" my new
thermometer from Macy's. Try it. The one from HopTech gets submerged a lot
and never causes a problem.
Charley (heat shrinking) in N. Cal.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:41:41 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: Re: Heat Exchanger details
>>>>
From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell@cari.net>
The following info I gained by webcrawling and search back HBDs
Ian Smith: 25ft of 3/8" coil. 1gal/min flow through 152F water gives a wort
temp of 150-150.8F
Ronald LaBorde: 25ft of 5/8" coil "just thrown in the HLT"
Rick Calley: 25ft of 1/2" horizonatal coil atached with Swage-lok bulkhead
fittings
David Ludwig: 8 ft of 1/2" horizontal coil inside the MASH-TUN and not the
HLT. David pumps hot water through the MT and NOT hot wort through the HLT.
This requires a mixer in the MT to ensure an even temperature. David
recommends a short coil to "reduce drag on the circulating mash and to
reduce the heat soak-back following temperature boosts"
Zymie & IGOR: 25ft of 1/2" vertical coil, the coil is wrapped HLT at 170F
<<<<
Good for you! Webcrawling and searching archives are efficient and useful
methods for obtaining info on the HBD. One should learn to crawl before one
learns to type.
I looks to me like David Ludwig's system may be the best design. It may not
be the easiest, nor cheapest, but may in the end, give the best results.
Several observations on my system:
1) I use a coil in the HLT with the wort circulating in it and
through the mash. With this system it is not easy to stir the mash while
circulating. If I do a temp step up, it takes time for the hotter incoming
wort to reach all the way to the bottom of the mash, thus I cannot
accurately know the mash timing.
2) If I do a decoction, and add the boiled portion, I need to
manually stir in the grains to thoroughly mix the mash, not easy in a 10
gal. cooler.
3) I would think that with David's system, one could stir, infuse,
decoct, etc.. to one's desire and then circulate at the end just after
mashout to filter and clear, this dosen't take long and I cannot see the
need to be circulating during the entire sacrification interval.
4) I am guessing that stirring the mash will produce more starch
conversion and provide a more complete extraction of the starches from each
granule then just circulating the liquor through the mash.
5) Without a grant, one could easily compact and stick the grain
bed. With David's system, a grant could easily be used and temp steps and
control would be a totally separate matter from sparging.
6) The most critical aspect of my RIMS is to be able to get enough
flow rate to quickly move temperatures, while not sticking the grain bed. I
know a better false bottom may help, but with David's system the problem can
be completely eliminated from the design.
Ron
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsumc.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:16:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Tad Seyler <tad@jw0.genetics.uga.edu>
Subject: Phix for phloating phalse bottom
IN HBD 2888, Jeff Grey asked:
>Does anyone have solution to a Phil's Phalse Bottom that floats in a
>Rubbermaid Cooler ? Back some ago I saw a post that said to screw down
>the false bottom. I was thinking about doing that, however I am not sure
>that I want to put holes in my cooler. I would also think this might be
>a area for bacteria to grow. Any ideas, or is the screws ok ?
Well, this was my solution: I use a 10 gallon Gott (same as yours?) from
which I removed the spout. I made a bulkhead fitting using a short brass
nipple (3/8"NPT, I think) and some big washers I found at the home store.
I attached a ball valve on the outside and a NPT-to-3/8" compression
fitting on the inside. I then ran a short (3-5") piece of Cu tubing from
the compression fitting toward the center of the vessel. A piece of vinyl
tubing (3/8" ID) connects the Cu tubing to the hosebarb elbow on the top
of the phalse bottom. Because the Cu tubing is rigid and the distance
between the Cu tubing and the elbow is short (maybe two inches), the false
bottom is not able to move around; it stays on the bottom. This system
also allows for easy removal of the phalse bottom for cleaning because the
vinyl tubing slides off of the Cu tubing without too much problem. I
should also add that I have never had a problem with knocking this tubing
apart while stirring the mash. It is quite secure.
- --Tad <jw0.genetics.uga.edu>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:59:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Alan Edwards <ale@cisco.com>
Subject: prounoucing SAAZ
Michael Jackson, in his "BeerHunter" video series pronounced it something
like ZAHT-zuh, much to my surprise.
-Alan
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:15:10 -0800
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Beeston malts?
Does anyone have experience with Beeston malts?
Specifically the Halcyon Pale? I just bought a sack from a
brewpub and I just wonder what others thought of it.
thanks.
Bryan Gros gros@bigfoot.com
Oakland, CA
Organizer, 1999 National Bay Area Brew Off
http://www.dnai.com/~thor/dboard/babo99.htm
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:32:37 EST
From: RMerid7682@aol.com
Subject: CO2
Hi all
Stopped in at welding supply shop today and checked price on hydrostat test
for CO2 cylinders. It's what I should have done the first time instead of
relying on memory. The shop I use charges $10.50 for test only, not counting
price of refill. I don't know if all types of cylinders are same price or not.
Roger Meridith
Decatur IL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:11:20 -0800
From: "Bill Splaine" <bsplaine@sonic.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching Phils Phalse Bottom
Jeff, a thought came to mind. I haven't looked at the false bottom and not
sure what the requirements are below it... but I'm a rookie.. so I can say
this <G> Have you considered a few small suction cups that are obtainable
from aquarium supply stores.. and possibly a bit of stainless wire to attach
things with? The suction cups which are used to hold fishtank thermometers in
place might be the ticket. Maybe this will be the launching pad for different
thinking even if it doesn't work in your situation.
Bill
Jeff wrote:
Does anyone have solution to a Phil's Phalse Bottom that floats in a
Rubbermaid Cooler ? Back some ago I saw a post that said to screw down the
false bottom. I was thinking about doing that, however I am not sure that I
want to put holes in my cooler. I would also think this might be a area for
bacteria to grow. Any ideas, or is the screws ok ?
Jeff Grey
- --
Women will never be equal to men until they can walk down the street
with a bald head and a beer gut, and still think they are beautiful.
Bill Splaine
Healdsburg, CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:26:38 +0000
From: "Jim Busch" <jim@victorybeer.com>
Subject: Re: Victory HopDevil bitter-sweet
Rick (desguised as Frederick) writes:
<From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@avery.med.virginia.edu>
<I'm still trying to get that bitter-sweet flavor that I taste in
<Hop Pockets and HopDevil.
Funny how you chose those two beers, both formulated by Ron Barchet
(and Mallett in the formers case). Both of these beers have a
considerable degree of hops/hop flavor and resinous hop character.
They go about it in a very different fashion, Dominion Brewing
using pellets and then dry hopping with whole Hoods and Cascades
while Victory Brewing opts for whole hops throughout and utilizes a
hop back.
<it did not work for me. Now I notice the same type of taste in
<Victory HopDevil
A good IPA needs to be hoppy throughout but not overpowering in any
one area (bitterness, flavor and finish) and you need to lay this on
top of a large malt foundation that is not just pale malt and
crystal. It also helps to be very careful in wort handling for
stability of good malty flavors underneath the big hop blast. BTW,
HopDevil's big brother is out now, Old Horizontal at 11%.....
<The beer has a very good bitterness and yet a very distinct
<sweetness in there behind the bitterness.
Thanks for your support and Prost!
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:14:59 -0800
From: "Michael Kowalczyk" <mikekowal@megsinet.net>
Subject: New BOSS
Time to move the wife and kiddies to the burbs. Yup. They all gotta go
some time...
I'll be moving to New Lenox Illinois. I know there are a lot of Brewers of
South Suburbia club members in that area and I had a few questions.
1. What do you do about water? I'm looking for cheap alternatives. I'd
rather not buy water. How about mixing? What beer styles can you make
without much doctoring (I've found I get my best results from Chicago water
with my Porters)? I make mostly ales, with the occasional Bock, or Marzen.
2. Is the water safe to rinse straight from the tap? I usually sanitize with
BTF and do a light rinse with Chicago water (40 batches without any
problems). Can I continue this practice, or has anyone had bad problems with
this method? I'd rather have my first batch in the new home not be
contaminated. If I am at risk, what do you do?
3. 2 Words - Cheap equipment. I'm looking for a cheap 15 gallon kettle. I
was thinking about cutting a keg and using a propane burner (It's a law that
you need a gas grill when you venture west of Western ave, so I will have the
tank already). Any leads on cheap equipment in that area? With the setup I
have I can mash to a 10 gallon wort of 1056 with only upgrading the kettle.
I can replace the othere vessels over time.
Any help would be useful. TIA
- Mike (since the Cubs are not playing why stay?) in Wrigleyville
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 18:36 PST
From: caburns@egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns)
Subject: Another virgin looses cherry, R.I.P.
Or instant brewery construction, it just depends on your perspective I
guess. Chuck had been working on his new mash tun off an on for a month. Our
porter brew was scheduled for Saturday and I called him to make sure he was
bringing his mash tun. So he ended up spending a lot of hours Friday evening
getting it ready. By Saturday afternoon it was time to mash in and pop this
mashtun's cherry. Chuck was so happy he was nearly in tears.
We all showed up at Jeff's house under gloomy skies. We had 55 lbs. of
grain, 3 mashtuns, 2 kettles and a hot liquor tank. The patio was bare of
picnic table. No where did we see any way of getting our gravity powered
system working. So we start digging through miscellaneous pieces of lumber
and found 4x4's, 1x10's, cinder blocks and a large planter box, and
proceeded to build a brewery on the spot.
We had 3 mashtuns (all 48-qt rectangular chests), so we put 3 1x10 planks
side by side on top of the planter and slid the mashtuns on. They were just
a couple inches higher than the kettle tops so it was perfect. Only problem
is that they were about 6 inches wider than the planks so they hung over the
edges on each side. It was a sight to behold.
Then Jeff remembered that he'd bought a Workmate bench 3 years earlier and
never taken it out of the box. Well it was the perfect base for building an
elevated hot liquor stand. The bench had no top so we laid some 2x4's across
it, put the cinder blocks on top of that and some 4x4 blocks on top of that
with an old coffee table top to flatten it out on top. Perfect, the hot
liquor tank was about 8" above the top of the mashtuns.
We were making 12 gallons of Robust Porter and 5 gallons of holiday spiced
ale. Twenty-two pounds of grain went into each of 2 mashtuns to split the
porter mash and 12 lbs. went into the third. Chuck was actually sobbing with
joy, letting out a soft moan as he stirred the grains into the hot liquor.
After an hour of mashing in the high 150's we rigged the hot liquor tank
with a 3/8" plastic T to feed 2 mashtuns with sparge water and rigged the
two mashtuns with an outgoing T to combine the sparged result into a single
large kettle. Worked like a champ (from Dangerous Dave's handbook of instant
homebrewery construction). Chucks new mashtun had larger holes perforating
the incoming water line so we had to crimp the tubing leading to it to slow
down the flow of water.
We ended up casting out 12.5 gallons of 1.093 Russian Imperial Porter
(R.I.P.) into 3 carboys plus the 5 gallons of Holiday Spice. Took about 6
hours and it didn't start raining until we were all done. What a fantastic
day, all being topped off by 3 hours of Erin's & Lori's appetizers and then
a sitdown Italian home cooked monster meal for 10. And of course, Chocolate
Decadence with Lana's homemade gourmet Chocolate Cupcakes and Lori's
homemade cheesecake for desert. There's probably a law someplace forbidding
this much fun, food and frolicking in one day.
Charley (frolicking) in N. Cal
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:37:56 -0600
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott57@flash.net>
Subject: ABG schools
Happy holidays to all,
I would appreciate feedback on the American Brewer's Guild various programs
from recent participants. I am particularly interested in the "Advanced
Homebrewers Weekend" and the 4 day "Fantasy Camp." Cost versus Benefit
versus Fun. Their shameless self-promotion seems to say that everyone had a
good time & found it of value. "Annie, I wanna go...Can I, Can I??" (She's
a great wife. Really.) Free beer for the first 5 responses.
Thanks,
Richard Scott
Coppell (Dallas) Texas
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:57:48 -0600
From: "Rob Jones" <robjones@pathcom.com>
Subject: Where are you Lambic Digest?
Hi All,
I tried to contact the Lambic Digest the other night with no luck. Does it
still exist? Anybody have the address?
While in a lambic frame of mind, what's the general opinion on storage of
commercial, corked lambics? On their side or upright?
Rob Jones,
Toronto
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:57:23 -0500
From: Steve <steves@ro.com>
Subject: Questions about pressure canning wort
To George De Piro (and everyone else here):
You wrote (in HBD #2888) that there is no need to boil the wort before
putting it in the jars to go in the pressure cooker. Having prepared all of
my starters to date by boiling the wort in an Erlenmeyer flask on the
stove, I am experienced with boilovers. And, believing in my grandmother's
admonition that you best not let the pressure cooker vent get blocked by
stuff like bean (grandmother wouldn't hold with making beer) foam (which
looks to me like the foam in a good wort boilover), I worry about clogging
up the vent on her old pressure cooker (the weighted regulator, hissy-fit,
scary type) by not using pre-boiled (less prone to boilover) wort. Is there
less foam production in boiling wort under pressure? Am I being
unnecessarily paranoid? As opposed to necessarily paranoid? Do I use too
many parentheses?
Thanks,
Steve Stripling
Huntsville, AL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:20:54 +0000
From: Jim Liddil <jliddil@azcc.arizona.edu>
Subject: Xantippe
What is the HBD coming to? First we have to endure clinitest, then the
pronunciation thread (how doe some say gueuze?, faro? lambic? kriek?,
framboise? brettanomyces? pediococcus? apoptosis? plambic.... Then we
have Zima. At least you can use that to thin out your CAP if it is too
heavy. (this is a joke for the humor impair/challenged)
> Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 12:40:55 -0600
> From: Paul Kensler <paul.kensler@ibm.net>
> Subject: lambic pellicle in bottles
>
> I somehow knew this would happen, so I probably should have asked this
> question _before_ bottling, but...
>
> I recently bottled a 1-year old lambic, using a little bit of corn sugar
> and a fresh yeast (S. Cerevisiae) starter to prime. A couple of weeks
> after bottling, the bottles have all developed a thin layer at the top -
> it looks just like the pellicle that forms during lambic fermentation.
> The lambic is otherwise clear and delicious, with no signs of infection
> (other than the desired Brett. and Ped. infections!).
Duh. A typical plambic will have a low enough residual extract and pH to
keep anything but such microbes from growing. acetobacter can be a problem
though. Ask a hard core Bud drinker if it is "delicious" Many people have
reported this phenomenon on the Lambic Digest (sort of no existent these
days). My suggestion is live with it. This growth is likely due to the
head space air. Brett growth is favored under oxidative conditions. You
can try to invert the bottles every so often until the pellicle quits
reforming.
> it drop out? 3. Finally, for you judges out there - given that this is a
> lambic (a purposely infected beer), will this bottle pellicle count
> against me in competitions? My guess is, "yes, but not as much as it
> would if the beer were a Helles Lager".
>
Why waste good beer on a homebrew competition? Contrary to what George
Depiro thinks (sarcasm) I think you will be wasting good beer on judges
that may or may not have a clue. Bottle appearance means squat for
plambics. I just got a bottle of Hannsens (thanks Dave) and it is cloudy
as hell. So is all the Cantillon I have from when WorldWide Imports was
still bringing it in. BFD. So relax don't worry have a plambic. But
maybe you will get lucky in a competition and end up a ribbon winner. It
could happen. :-)
also I think that martin is a very knowledgeable and eloqunet writer, but
wrt to brewing schools wake up folks. The brewing industry is beginnning
to compress. It's a business. And if you plan to make mortgage payments
etc then you better realize that indeed AB knows what they are doing. Yes
Dr. Lewis is a bit too self assured but I think he is right in that AB is
doing something right if they can crank out millions of gallons of
flavorless beverage that is always the same and never infected. Can we say
the same about many other small brewers who bottle and distribute across
the nation? Hair of the Dog sucks by the time it gets to Arizona.
George Depior suggested someone spin their hydrometer to degas and remove
bubbles. But if they only used the clinitest..........
Jim
www.u.arizona.edu/~jliddil
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 05:36:37 GMT
From: huskers@voyager.net (Jason Henning)
Subject: re: 240V service, I need a neutral
Hello-
Dana H. Edgell <edgell@cari.net> explains about his condo wiring in
2888:
+ The circuit breakers are two 30 Amp circuit breakers from adjacent
slots
+ "ganged together".... It looks to me that the water heater is actually
+ using 240V, with no neutral conductor....The question is, how do I
split
+ the 240V service into two 120V services that I can connect to GFCIs
+ without a neutral line? I could use the ground as a neutral but is that
safe?
In theory it would work but is unsafe and illegal. The ground wire would
become a current carrier without insulation. The romex jacket isn't
enough.
Then your 10 to 15 amps too high for the GFIs. A 15A GFI can be hooked
up to a 15 or 20A circuit, not a 30A. GFIs don't provide overcurrent
protection. A GFI won't trip because 20A+ is running through it.
Cheers,
Jason Henning
Big Red Alchemy and Brewing
Clawson, Michigan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 05:47:02 EST
From: DGofus@aol.com
Subject: Brewpubs...a dying breed? (Bob Fesmire )
Here in Pennsylvania we are seeing a number of small breweries falling by the
wayside. Why? Whats happening? I have been hearing about the "fallout and
shakeup" of the breweries for some time now. Is it a matter of getting taps in
barrooms and too much competition? Is it the general public tired of
paying$3-$4 for a glass of beer? Are we to fear the that the great Stoudts or
the wonderful Victory (both in PA) will follow the lead of these other brew
places? What a tragedy that would be. Any comments either private or public
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Bob Fesmire
Madman Brewery
Pottstown, PA
Dgofus@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 05:55:32 EST
From: DGofus@aol.com
Subject: "kurds" in my beer!( Bob Fesmire)
I have recently switched to all grain! I have had no real big problems, other
than my false bottom letting grain through. My problems have risen during
fermentation. I have brewed 3 batches. Two batches have had what I will call
"kurds", or small, gnarly pea to marble sized objects that appear about 12 to
24 hours after pitching yeast. They seem to hang out at the top of the
fermenting beer at first, then during heavy fermentation, they roll all about
then most, not all, finally settle out and I rack off of them. What is going
on? What are they? I can not recall this happening with my extract brews. Any
help would be appreciated. TIA
Bob Fesmire
Madman Brewery
Pottstown,PA
Dgofus@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:59:38 -0800
From: "NFGS" <fjrusso@coastalnet.com>
Subject: Recipe exchange format
A few readers have joined in on the discussion of a standard template for
the exchange of recipes. I would like to see more of you out there get
involved. Visit the following site and login and voice in on the issues.
Please
Homebrew Recipe Exchange Via XML
Discussion Web Site
http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Facility/8388/
Frank
fjrusso@coastalnet.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:57:47 -0500
From: "Ratkiewich, Peter" <PRATKIEWICH@ci.westport.ct.us>
Subject: Light beer fix?
On my first attempt at using a Munton's kit I apparently made a pretty
stupid error. I added too much water to the extract and ended up with
too much volume for the batch size. The beer was to be an Old
Conkerwoods Black Ale, and although not listed on the box I believe the
OG was supposed to be around 1042-1044. Due to my additional
gallon
of water the OG ended up at 1034, thus making what will be the first
Old
Conkerwoods light Black Ale. Thus the question... is there a way of
adjusting the gravity after the fact. The batch is currently chugging
away through the primary. Can I add some additional extract at this
point? Or is this beer simply destined for unwanted guests and
Ne'er-do-wells?
Brewing on the marsh
Pete Ratkiewich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:54:19 -0500
From: RobertJ <pbsys@pbsbeer.com>
Subject: re RIMS vs HERMS
MaltHound@aol.com wrote
I have read repeatedly that some think that the electric
element may overheat the wort and prematurely denature enzymes. I do not see
how using a heat exchange coil immersed in the HLT would eliminate this
possibility. In fact, I would say that it could actually increase the
likelyhood of this occuring.
- ------
To get as FAST a temp increase with RIMS, in my experience, you would tend
to scorch the wort. With typical RIMS ramp speed this probably is not as
much of a concern
If the heat exchange system is not properly designed I would agree, you
could overheat the recirculating wort. Coil design and ability to control
flowing wort temp insures that HERMS does not overheat the wort.
- --
In my electric RIMS, the wort exiting the heater chamber is only a few degrees
higher than the wort at the entrance. While I don't have a HERMS<tm> type
set-up to play with, I would imagine based on my experiences using an
immersion chiller that the wort exiting the heat exchanger would be very close
to the temperature of the water in which it is immersed.
- ----
Not necessarily, with the HERMS heat exchanger and no other control, wort
exits at 158-160 with HLT at 170 and mash at 150.
Higher HLT temps, at the end of the temp increase, would cause a higher
recirculating temp, only in the small portion of the wort going through the
heat exchanger, which is controlled by valving.
- --
Since one of the
supposed advantages of HERMS is faster temperature step ramping, one might
imagine that the HLT is held at a fairly high temperature to accomplish this.
Unless the temperature of the HLT is regulated and monitored closely, it would
appear that more thermal stress would be placed on the enzymes via the heat
exchanger than with an electric heater chamber.
- ----
HLT temp should not require carfull monitoring (it doesn't change very
rapidly and only downward) If a quick increase (4 deg/min) is desired heat
HLT to 180. It will drop to 170 quickly (recirc temp won't be above 145
when you start.) As mash approaches 150, valves control recirc temp. to
maximize temp increase during last 2 mins. Total time is about 8.5 mins for
13 gal of 1.048 OG. Recirc temp doesn't go above 158-160.
Keep in mind, HERMS was developed to provide a manually controlled,
alternative to RIMS, offering many of the advantages. (For people like me
that are electically iliterate)
Bob
Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:57:56 -0500
From: "Matthew J. Harper" <matth@progress.com>
Subject: Re: Phil's Non Phloating false bottom
I concur with Rick Wood and his assessment of Phil's
very nice piece of work in the digest today's Digest
(not HBD, just The Digest. :-) # 2889. I've been using
a Phil's Phalse Bottom in my Gott cooler for several years
now and I've *never* had a problem with it floating. From
the get go I've used a small piece of tubing from the
bottom to a small tube of copper. The copper then fits
into a rubber stopper (size that fits a 12 oz beer bottle)
that's stuck into the end of my outlet valve in the cooler.
This setup has worked like a champ since day one, so I've
spent my few Brew Dollars (newly formed currency perhaps?)
on other stuff, like a dedicated brewing area in the
basement! Wahoo!
All you brewers lamenting brewing in the kitchen putting
off a dedicated area; go for it. The best move I've ever
made. Not having to compete with wife, kids or food while
I brew has made the process much easier, not to mention
fewer 'Oh Crap' utterances and, I believe, better results.
Sorry, I digress...
Phil does take unfair criticism (no relation, yada yada). I
cannot help but wonder how many folks are like myself and Rick,
satisfied with the product and just keeping a good thing to
ourselves? :-)
-Matth
Matthew J. Harper
Principal Software Engineer
Progress Software Corp.
Nashua, New Hampshire
matth@progress.com
Sometimes you're the windshield - Sometimes you're the bug
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:08:23 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr@iquest.net>
Subject: 240V service, I need a neutral
1. Evidently someone cheated. I would check local code but I don't think
it is legal to use 2 wire + neutral for 230 2 phase incoming power. The
builder may be outside of code and may be responsible for rewiring the
incoming wiring to your condo. Check local code before calling the dogs.
2. In spite of this you already have 2 120 VAC lines in your home.
Black to bare and white to bare. The bare wire is your neutral not your
ground. Ground is "GROUND" as in DIRT and is attached to the breaker box
itself from the grounding stake outside your home. There should be a
grounding strap or a copper wire running to the electrical box, the
grounding buss, on one end and a steel post outside on the other. This is
usually not inside the service conduit.
3. Check at the switches and outlets in the house and check the breaker
box. Are the standard 120 VAC breakers wired with 2 wire + ground. The
bare ground wires from these should go to a grounding buss in the box. If
this is the case then you have neutrals and grounds.
4. GFCI's DON'T measure the current to ground. There is no way to
measure the ground fault current. The GROUND FAULT CURRENT is assumed from
the currents that are measurable. If I am standing in a bath tub and part of
the current from a radio courses through my body, into the water, through
the plumbing and into the ground, how do I measure that. Where would you
suggest I put a current meter? On your toe or in the plumbing? GFCI's
actually measure the difference in current between the incoming line and the
out going line. As long as there is no short to a ground like the water in
the bath tub or your warm little body, the current in both legs, the hot
120 and neutral, is equal. 1 amp in, 1 amp out. There is no loss in
current. What the GFCI measures is the difference in the CURRENT, the flow
of electrons, not the voltage, between the hot and the neutral.
If you don't have a good concept of electricity, imagine a hose with water
running through it. As long as I don't have a hole in the hose, all of the
water that goes into the hose on one end comes out the other end. Even if I
use something to restrict the flow of water the same is true, it just flows
slower. If I punch a hole in the side of the hose some water will leak
out. I could tell if there was a leak by precisely measuring the water at
each end of the hose and comparing them. If they are different, even the
least bit, there is a leak.
A ground fault is like a leak in the hose. Like water, electrons are
matter, they don't just leak out into space. All I have to do is make sure
that all of the electrons that go in one end, come out the other. If I miss
a few, then I assume a GROUND FAULT and the interrupt blows.
Electronically, that description is a bit simplistic but it is theoretically
complete.
So, what I am assuming is that you actually DO have a ground to your in
house wiring. The ground strap to the breaker box fills that bill. The bare
wire on in the 240 triplet is actually neutral, not the ground. I also
bet you have grounds to your house wiring. If you don't, all you have to
do is run a 2 wire + ground wire from the box to a new outlet and make sure
you have the ground (bare) connected to the box grounding buss. Even if you
don't have the ground, you have a hot and neutral and the GFCI should still
work properly.
I bet I know why your neighbors are complaining, you haven't invited enough
of them over to test your wares. Or maybe it's the little lady down the
street who doesn't drink but does gossip.
Good Luck......
>1) bare copper: presumably ground
>2) black wire: 119.9 V to ground
>3) "white wire": covered with black tape to appear black 118.9 V to ground
>Wires 2&3 are 210V w.r.t. each other.
>The question is, how do I split the 240V service into two 120V services
>that
>I can connect to GFCIs without a neutral line?
>I could use the ground as a neutral but is that safe? Wouldn't then the
>return current from my 120V circuits (up to 30Amps) be electrically
>connected to things such as appliance housings ? (The water heater is the
>only thing on these circuit breakers).
>And if I could use the ground for the return current, what would I use to
>ground my HLT etc?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:24:58 -0500
From: Seth Goodman <sethgoodman@110.net>
Subject: Re:240V service, I need a neutral
In HBD #2888, Dana H. Edgell wrote:
> The problem began when I actually examined the wiring the other day. Here is
> what I found. The service into the electrical box consisted of an insulated
> cable with three wires inside
> 1) bare copper: presumably ground
> 2) black wire: 119.9 V to ground
> 3) "white wire": covered with black tape to appear black 118.9 V to ground.
>
> Wires 2&3 are 210V w.r.t. each other.
>
> The circuit breakers are two 30 Amp circuit breakers from adjacent slots
> "ganged together".
>
> It looks to me that the water heater is actually using 240V, with no neutral
> conductor.
>
This is wired just fine, and it is indeed a 240V circuit with *no*
neutral, but *with* ground - SOP for water heaters (no neutral is
required - see previous HBDs on the 240V GFCI issue - pop quiz
tomorrow :-)).
A 120V/30A circuit would be good for nothing more than a large coffee
pot; even 240V/30A sounds a little small. No doubt the water heater is
using the *full rated capacity* of this circuit - you cannot legally
or safely tap into it for your HLT. Sorry.
Perhaps your Condo Association can be persuaded that your Propane
burner is no more dangerous than anybody's grill, as suggested by John
Schnupp in HBD #2889.
Disclaimer - I'm not an electrician, I just play one here at the
"miswired" house. :-)
Cheers,
Seth
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:45:59 -0500
From: Rod Prather <rodpr@iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Old Style; lambic
>Is the Belgian fad reaching an end? Will I have to live without
>Cantillon???
I just learned that the distributor of Celis in Indiana, dropped the
product. Perhaps the fad is over but Belgian ales will live on. Especially
in Belgium where that IS beer.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:59:05 -0600
From: scott zimmerle <szimmerle@mediaone.net>
Subject: amber ale
<1st post alert>
I know that this is probably a dumb question, but what, exactly, is an
amber ale?
I have read that the term "amber" is overused and vague. I also have the
impression that (what commercially goes by the term) amber ale (that is,
American Amber) is merely pale ale with crystal malt added. But if
that's true, then what's amber malt used for? Is amber ale merely ale
made with amber malt? If so, then what happens to THAT when you add
crystal malts? Or is the style not that precisely defined?
Scott "rhymes with Dieterle's" Zimmerle, Elmhurst Illinois.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:57:05 -0500
From: "John A. MacLaughlin" <jam@clark.net>
Subject: Re: 240V service, I need a neutral
In HBD #2888 Dana H. Edgell <edgell@cari.net> writes in part:
>It looks to me that the water heater is actually using 240V, with no
>neutral conductor.
Exactly right, and exactly as it should be. A water heater contains
nothing that needs to connect to neutral.
>. . . how do I split the 240V service into two 120V services that
>I can connect to GFCIs without a neutral line?
You don't, if you are wise. In fact, if you are wise you don't change
this circuit at all; it's just fine as it is. Adding even one more load
to it will violate the National Electrical Code because the existing load
(the water heater) requires more than half the rated circuit current.
To brew electrically with reasonable safety you really need an additional
circuit for your brewing equipment, and you really need the help of some-
one who has the skills of a competent electrician to assure that the new
wiring is adequate and properly installed. Taking shortcuts may endanger
the lives and property of everyone in your building.
I hate to seem negative but I really see only three practical alternatives:
1. As John Schnupp <John_E_Schnupp@amat.com> pointed out in HBD #2889, your
cooker is no more dangerous than the much commoner grills and barbecues.
Maybe you can persuade your condo association of that, with the help of a
local fire marshal perhaps. Of course, if they forbid all open fires that
probably won't help.
2. You may be able to get the electrical work you need done for less than
full price through a local homebrew club's contacts, for example, or a
homebrew store's.
3. Doing extract batches on the kitchen stove may not be attractive to you
but it beats being limited to drinking manufactured swill.
Best wishes, JAM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:03:49 -0500
From: "Kirk Harralson" <kwh@ismd.ups.com>
Subject: Floating air stones / shops
I recently bought one of the oxygentation systems that use the small
O2 tanks. I used it as directed; and, as I was timing how long I
had the valve open, I noticed the SS air stone practically floating
on top of the wort. I tried to encourage it to sink to the bottom,
but with no luck. I doubt I got much oxygen into the wort. So,
what is the best way around this? I've thought about buying some SS
washers to put over the tube near the bottom to weight it down, but
I'm not crazy about that idea. Anybody else encounter this?
Second, with all the recent posts from this area, can anyone
recommend a good brew shop in the northern Maryland area? The ones
I've been going to don't keep a good stock on hand (particularly
yeast and specialty grains), and I would prefer not to mail order.
Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:37:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Murman <smurman@best.com>
Subject: Re: modeling grain
> Guy Gregory confirms with his use of MODFLOW that Darcy*s law is
> applicable to evaluating fluid flow through a grain bed.
>
> Paul Niebergall
No-one has ever doubted that porosity must be accounted for when
simulating the grainbed flow. The difference is between *modeling*
the flow, and calculating a full 3-D simulation in glorious 64-bit
precision. Modeling involves making order of magnitude estimates
based on governing principles in an attempt to find a simple algebraic
model, such as the R^3 law that John's experiment exposed. Most
homebrewers don't have access to commercial groundwater simulation
software, and a simple algebraic model would be sufficient for playing
with manifold designs.
-SM-
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:48:07 EST
From: MaltyDog@aol.com
Subject: Label Help
Just a quick thank you for everyone that e-mailed me regarding labels.
The most common suggestion to attach the labels was to use a glue stick.
In addition, brushing on the milk with a brush or sponge, rather than
immersing the
labels was suggested, as was Elmer's Glue and envelope sealer and preformated
labels. To avoid bleeding, using high quality deskjet paper and spraying the
labels with a fixative spray (variously matte, glossy and acrylic) was
suggested and using an ALPS waterproof printer.
I will be testing out various suggestions, and go with what works for me the
best.
Again, thanks for the help!
Bill Coleman
MaltyDog@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:26:28 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: Does Oxygenation with O2 increase lag time?
>>>>
From: "William W. Macher" <macher@telerama.lm.com>
....
I do not recall seeing mention of oxygenation
with pure O2 (as pure as welding O2 may be)
leading to lengthened lag times. Is this
normal? Have others using O2 had the same
experience?
My speculation is that with much more oxygen
in the wort, the yeast are going through more
growth phases, and consequently the elapsed
time between pitching and production of CO2
has increased.
<<<<
Recently our club had a guest speaker, Henryck Orlick, Brewmaster; Abita
Brewing C0, who gave us some tips on yeast in brewing. He suggested that
air was better than pure O2 because air contains nitrogen, and it was his
advice that the nitrogen is used by the yeast to some degree as nutrient,
thus air is better, in his opinion, than pure 02.
Ron
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsumc.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2890, 12/02/98
*************************************
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