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HOMEBREW Digest #2830
HOMEBREW Digest #2830 Tue 22 September 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Easy Keg? (Bowden Wise)
FAQ's and hot water tanks (Steffan Gay)
Re: Weld-Free Keg Conversion (Clint Thessen)
Re: Hop Museums ("Mark Nelson")
vanilla beans ("Penn, John")
Weld Free Conversion (SBireley)
VT Breweries (Paul Brian)
Guinness Replication (Dan Listermann)
Altrageous (Matthew Arnold)
re: Alt hopping (David Kerr)
More on Uerige and malts ("Jim Busch")
lye/NaOH ("Jim Busch")
Jeff Renner's Address (Thomas S Barnett)
Why is my AA so high? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
Honey/Lye ("A. J. deLange")
3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off (Stephen Johnson)
Fusels vs amino acid levels ("Steve Alexander")
CPBF ideas ("Bryan L. Gros")
shipping beer bottles for competitions.. (Badger Roullett)
re: Vanilla Beans in Beer (Mark Tumarkin)
Homebrewers @ the GABF ("Brian Rezac")
Gott (Rubbermaid) cooler mash tun (Corky Courtright)
Winter Lager recipe (Frank O'Bleness (ST))
Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
Send your entries in for the Hoppiest Show On Earth yet?
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JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 00:57:51 -0400
From: Bowden Wise <wiseb@acm.org>
Subject: Easy Keg?
I was wondering what the easiest way to keg is? I don't want
to get into a elaborate keg set up. I am planning on going to
an football game in few weeks and wanted to bring some homebrew.
Brining a keg might be easier than a case of bottles.
So what's the simplest way to get into kegging?
- --
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
G. Bowden Wise
Computer Science Dept, Rensselaer Polytechnic Inst, Troy, NY 12180
E-mailto:wiseb@acm.org WWW: http://www.cs.rpi.edu/~wiseb/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 22:07:53 -0700
From: Steffan Gay <smg@kendra.com>
Subject: FAQ's and hot water tanks
Having been lurking for only about a month, and having not seen any
discussion regarding the use of old hot water tanks, AND having an old
hot water tank lurking in my backyard, this here homebrewer wonders if
this silly idea has ever crossed the collective mind and whether it has
ever been tried...
Can you imagine a gas or electric hot water tank being used as a brewing
vessel? What kind of steel is used for hot water tanks, and would it be
amenable to boiling wort? One could cut the off the top half and use
the bottom half (with the heating element in the bottom, with the
thermostat set to boiling).
Has anyone tried this kinda thing? With my typical rotten luck, it has,
and the poor sod who tried it died with his knowledge intact. >sigh<
Public posting of reply appreciated, private e-mail okay, too.
Thanks, all.
Steffan
smg@kendra.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 06:38:57 -0500
From: Clint Thessen <cthessen@mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-Free Keg Conversion
Rich is looking for a no-weld solution to his 1/2-barrel
conversion problem. Just to throw in my $.02. I looked
at alot of options including Jack's EasyMasher (tm) for
converting my kegs. I finally decided that I wanted an
easymash system but couldn't find the brass spigot that
Jack uses or anything similar. However, what I did find
was bulkhead fitting made by Swageloc. I bought the
brass, 1/2 in version for $6 a piece. It works like a champ
and as Jack said yesterday... tightening the nut sufficiently
will create a "water"-tight seal. There should be several
distributors of Swageloc stuff throughout the country. I
went and bought mine at St. Louis Valve and Fitting. They
also make stainless versions, about twice as expensive
though. Don't be scared of brass. You can de-lead per
John Palmer's procedure. If you can find it just search the
HBD for John Palmer and Brass. You can learn the whole
sorted story of brass usage.
Hoppy Brewing!
Clint Thessen
O'Fallon, MO (Just west of McGuireland USA)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:50:48 -0400
From: "Mark Nelson" <menelson@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hop Museums
Bob wrote:
>It is an excellent time to vacation in Eastern Washington.
>For anyone else thinking of going, be sure to stop at the
>only Hop museum in the world.
FYI, there's also a hop museum in Poperinge, in West Flanders, Belgium.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:13:59 -0400
From: "Penn, John" <PennJE1@SPACEMSG.JHUAPL.edu>
Subject: vanilla beans
In regards to sanitizing those vanilla beans... I've never used vanilla
beans but I think this will work. Try soaking the vanilla beans in a
small jar with some vodka. If you want some aroma, pitch after
fermentation is mostly done or if you don't need the aroma, pitch into
the primary. I used a little vodka once to sanitize some mint leaves
which I soaked for a few days then pitched after the primary
fermentation was over. The aroma was wonderful in the jar of mint
leaves but ended up too diluted in a 5 gallon batch. Next time I'd use
more mint leaves. Vodka should work for just about any kind of spice as
one possible solution.
John Penn
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 98 10:16:55 EST
From: SBireley@renex.com
Subject: Weld Free Conversion
We have several kegs that were converted using standard brass and
stainless pipe fittings. The major drawback of these fittings is the
tapered thread on the male fitting. To get around this, I put the
male fitting in my drill press and filed off all by 4 threads of the
male fitting. It then screwed all of the way into the female threaded
fitting (with a little force). I used teflon tape to seal the threads
and a little food grade silicone to seal the connection at the keg
wall. It has lasted many batches on all three kegs in the system with
no leaks.
Steve B.
Virginia
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:44:59 -0400
From: Paul Brian <pbrian@ctc-fund.com>
Subject: VT Breweries
A couple of digests ago, someone incorrectly mentioned Catamount Brewery
being in White River Junction. They moved to a new location in Windsor,
VT, about 15 miles south of White River Jct. on Rt 5. While their new
facilities definately deserves a visit, it's not nearly as "unique" as
their old brewery building in White River and looks a lot like the other
two major microbreweries in the state, Long Trail and Otter Creek.
Don't go to Catamount hungry. They don't serve food.
Long Trail Brewery (I think the official name is Mountan Brewers) is
located about 15 miles west of White River Junction on Rt. 4. They have
a great deck overlooking a river where you can order beer/food (more
beer) etc. In keeping with the recent Alt thread, their flagship beer,
Long Trail Ale, is self described as being modeled after the Alt beers
of Germany. I've heard/read (don't remeber which) that it isn't really
brewed to style but it's still an excellent beer.
If you're lucky enough to be in the Middlebury area, the Otter Creek
Brewery is a lot like Catamount. They have a tour and a gift shop, but
no food. They have the added advantage of being in Middlebury, which is
a beautiful Vt. town to visit.
All these breweries are first-class operations that brew wonderful
beer. I highly recomend them all as destination points on your next
trip to Vermont, which is especially beautiful this time of year.
And don't forget to stop a McNeil's Brewpub in Brattleboro on your way
home(if your coming from the south like me) This brewer rightly
deserves the numerous medals he's won and gets my vote for best craft
brewer on the East coast.
Cheers,
Paul Brian
Stamford, CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:44:29 -0400
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707@compuserve.com>
Subject: Guinness Replication
Michael O. Hanson asks about how to reproduce the lactic "tang" that is
uniquie to Guinness. This past Thursday at the Bloatarian Brewing League
meeting we took the opportunity of our new location to brew a batch. (
well
actually we just mashed and lautered due to time constraints - I took the
batch back to the shop for the boil the next day ) We used Graham
Wheeler's
reciepe for Guinness except that I added 3% Weyermann's acidulated malt
to
the grist in an attempt to duplicate or, more correctly, simulate tha
"tang."
This morning I took a taste. While it is still frightfully young, it did
show a great deal of promise. I can't waite to do a back to back tasting
and decide where to move things.
Dan Listermann
Check out our site at listermann.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:49:22 GMT
From: marnold@ez-net.com (Matthew Arnold)
Subject: Altrageous
Gordon Strong wrote:
>I've enjoyed the altbier discussion and hope to make one when it gets a
>bit cooler. Thanks to Al K for sharing his recipe, but one question:
>how long and at what temperature do you cold condition? Ed Westemeier
>had previously recommended to me that a minimum of 8 weeks at no more
>than 40F was proper. I'm inclined to follow this, but am interested in
>more data points.
I must admit that I don't understand why one would say _eight weeks_ minimum
"lagering" for a 1.048 ale. I realize the point is to reduce / minimize esters,
but at that temperature even the hardiest ale yeast is going to go to Yeasty
Valhalla (or happy-nappy land anyway). Two months seems, IMO, to be overkill.
Is there something I'm missing? Al, did you ask the good folks (volk?) at ZU
how long / at what temperature they "lagered"?
Ray Daniels in "Designing Great Beers" suggests "lagering" alts/koelsches at
41-50F (5-10C) to slow the yeast but not put it out of commission. Thoughts?
FWIW (probably not much), in the NHC examples he cited, the average length of
time for lagering an alt was 41 days at a bone-chilling average of 35F.
Then the good Dr. Brown spake:
>Since the HBD PAE was such an interesting project (Thanks to John V.),
>perhaps, what with all the interest in Altbier, maybe our next project
>should be to create one.
Sounds like a blast to me. Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to organize such a
massive endeavor, but I'd surely be interested in it!
Matt
- -----
Webmaster, Green Bay Rackers Homebrewers' Club
http://www.rackers.org info@rackers.org
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:47:12 -0400
From: David Kerr <dkerr@semc.org>
Subject: re: Alt hopping
George de Piro comments:
> I wonder if better results might be more easily achieved by using
a
> higher alpha hop, such as Perle.
>
I used 4 oz Perle in my 10 Gal batch of Altbier (shooting for ~55 IBU).
I couldn't discern any hop flavor/aroma as it went into the secondary,
just a good bite of bitterness. Thanks again to AlK for the grain bill
suggestions.
Dave Kerr Needham, MA
"I think the time is right" - Cal "take me out of the ballgame" Ripken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:34:10 +0000
From: "Jim Busch" <jim@victorybeer.com>
Subject: More on Uerige and malts
I went back and read the label on my empty bottle of Zum Uerige:
4.5% ABV
They also clearly indicate the use of caramalz and roastmalz as well
as malted barley.
I would not consider any of the Altstadt beers to be "big", a 4.5%
beer is the classic session beer strength found in Helles and
Bohemian Pils.
As for the dunkelwiezen thread and dark wheat malts, Ive been using
caraWheat malts for some time in Weizenbocks and there are several
grades of darkness available. From the discussion here I gather it
is more of a wheat malt made like Munich malts as opposed to a
caraWheat?
Prost! (to another Oktoberfest season.....)
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:36:27 +0000
From: "Jim Busch" <jim@victorybeer.com>
Subject: lye/NaOH
Im a real fan of caustics but if you are concerned with the safety
aspects try out PBW. I like to use both in my brewhouse, soaking the
mash screens in PBW until the next time I brew obviates any scrubbing
which makes me a happy brewer!
Prost!
Jim Busch
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:17:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Thomas S Barnett <barnets@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Jeff Renner's Address
Hello all,
This question needs to be asked for those of us who have only
recently begun reading HBD: Where does Jeff Renner live?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:28:24 -0400
From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@avery.med.virginia.edu>
Subject: Why is my AA so high?
I just kegged a 10 gallon all grain Ale brewed with Wyeast
American II. Mashed at about 150 with a single infusion and
fermented at about 65F. The Apparent Attenuation was 86.
Any ideas why?
Rick Pauly
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:35:18 -0500
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Honey/Lye
A few comments on honey:
The yeast which are nomally found in honey are held in stasis by the
high osmotic pressure of the sugar when the moisture content is less
than 18% by weight. Most packers will not, for this reason, accept honey
at a higher moisture content and this means that honey you buy will most
probably be at or below 18%. The remaining (82%) of the weight is mostly
sugars. While actual compositions vary average values are 38.4%
fructose, 31% glucose, 7.2% maltose and 1.5% sucrose. Much of the sugar
in nectar is sucrose but this is largely inverted by enzymes in the
bee's pharangyal gland secretion (OK, saliva). Nevertheless, the balance
is nearly always towards fructose and the average numbers show this.
Thus, in terms of its fermentables, honey resembles the invert sugars
used in some European brewing.
For those who wish to measure honey by volume, the specific gravity of
honey with an 18% mositure content is 1.4171 grams/mL and at 15%
moisture content, 1.4350. Thus, for example, 1L of 18% moisture content
honey contains approximately (0.82)(1.4171)(1000) = 1162 grams of sugar.
As a cup is, I think, 236 mL a cup would contain (0.82)(1.4171)(236) =
274 grams (about 0.6 Lb).
More information is available from
http://www.nhb.org/foodtech/tgloss.html, the National Honey Board's web
site, from which I got these numbers.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
WRT lye, the most important issue discussed here, so important that I
think it deserves mention again, is protection of the eyes. One of the
most insidious things about lye is that it anaesthesizes the corneas so
that a brewer who has had small droplets (splashed, sprayed or whatever)
into his eyes may be unaware of this until substantial damage is done.
Hot lye is about the slickest thing out there for removing proteinaceous
gloop (only thing that beats it is chromic acid), it's readily available
and it's inexpensive. It's especially effective in hot water and so the
temptation to dump it into hot water is great. When it dissolves,
considerable heat is evolved and so, if the water is hot enough to
start, there is potential danger that the added heat will make it boil.
Always protect your eyes and, if mixing in a flask, for example, point
the mouth of the flask away from you when adding lye.
Drano contains lye and aluminum turnings which react with the lye to
produce hydrogen gas with the intent that the bubbling action
mechanically loosen the stuff in the drain that you are trying to get
rid of. I can't think of any reason not to use products like Drano
(unless they contain stuff to make them smell nice and I think some do)
but the basic composition of them should make it clear that they, nor
any other product containing lye, should be used with aluminum ware.
Straight lye from the hardware store is prpbably cheaper.
Dave B wrote concerning bleach:
>Care with this substance must also be used as it is also an oxidizer
It wasn't quite clear from the context (at least to me) whether "this
substance" referred to bleach or the lye it contaims. It is the
hypochlorite in bleach which is an oxidizing agent and it is that very
property of it which makes it an effective germicide. Note that its
effectiveness is somewhat diminished at the high pH of the
lye-containing solution in which it typically sold (as household bleach)
but in this form it is most stable. Dilution (out of the jug it contains
about 55 grams of chlorine per liter) to typical strength usually lowers
the pH enough that it is effective at its job as applied.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Measurement of the amount of reducing sugars in beer/wort does have a
place in brewing. I think I've mentioned before that the ASBC Methods of
Analysis include two methods for doing this. One of them uses the same
chemistry as the C*******t.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:38:18 -0500
From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson@vanderbilt.edu>
Subject: 3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off
The Music City Brewers are proud to announce:
What: Third Annual Music City Brew-Off
When: Saturday, October 24, 1998
Where: Boscos Nashville Brewery,
C/o Music City Brewers
1805 21st Ave. S.
Nashville, TN 37212
Who: contact Steve Johnson (615-327-4100)
Or Chuck Bernard (615-902-9177)
E-mail: johnsons@uansv5.vanderbilt.edu
bernardch@mindspring.com
For additional information, see our webpage at
http://www.theporch.com/~homebrew
We will be accepting entries at Boscos Nashville Brewery in all
of the 1998 AHA style categories and subcategories beginning
September 28th. Entry deadline is October 12th.
Events will include:
1) Welcome reception on Friday, Oct. 23, for club members, judges,
stewards, and competition sponsors featuring our Special Guest
for the weekend, Al Korzonas (author, regular contributor to the HomeBrew
Digest, and other brewing publications), potluck dinner, and plenty of
brews from the Music City Brewers (including some of that now famous
"Skypeck Imperial <insert name here>").
2) Competition judging Saturday morning at Boscos, with lunch
provided for judges and stewards.
3) Best of Show round immediately after lunch, with BOS prize an
opportunity to brew a special recipe with Greg Davis of Market Street
Brewery, 134 2nd Ave. N., Nashville.
4) Awards ceremony, including lots of door prizes for spectators,
as well as the crowning of the Tennessee Homebrewer of the Year and
Tennessee Homebrew Club of the Year.
5) Pub crawl Saturday evening, featuring some of the local brewpubs and
taprooms in the downtown Nashville area (We will provide the
transportation to and from Boscos for a $5 fee; judges and other
competition staff free)
6) Sunday morning "Brunch with Al", featuring a presentation by Al
Korzonas and plenty of homecooked brunch items (Steve's Malted pancakes,
sausage, baked apples, hashbrowns, etc.) ($5 fee)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:23:58 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fusels vs amino acid levels
Al Korzonas writes ...
>Steve writes:
>>AlK points out correctly that fusel alcohol production by yeast drops at both
>>very low and very high amino acid levels.
>Nay, nay... I said it *INCREASES* at both very low and very high amino
>acid levels! Must have been a typo.
In that case I have to respectfully disagree.
T.Ayrapaa (put an umlaut over all the vowels) published some graphs and a
tentative explanation in Proc. EBC Conv., Brussels, 1963. Reproduced in part
in 'The Yeasts', vol 3, Academic Press. Isobutanol for example starts at about
20ppm when the FAN level is extremely low (~20ppm). It increases to ~70ppm at
a FAN level of ~250ppm, then declines to ~20ppm at FAN levels of 500ppm and
above. Similarly for Phenyl-ethanol and amyl alcohols, tho the peak levels of
the alcohol varied from FAN of ~100ppm to 250ppm. These results were extended
to studies of the impact of the individual amino acids levels and fusels by
Ayrapaa in JIB 71, 1965, pp341 - which I have not read myself - tho' I've read
of the results.
SteveA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:52:34 -0700
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros@bigfoot.com>
Subject: CPBF ideas
Steve wrote in HBD #2829:
<snipped interesting description of hands-free CPBF base that
I didn't quite get>
>I bottled a pale ale which was carbonated to about
>2.4 volumes, around 13 psi @ 40F (numbers are
>approximate here), and I started at about 5 psi or
>so. I got some significant foaming, so I decided
>to RAISE the pressure as an experiment. I raised
>it to 10 psi, and the foaming was somewhat less.
>Then I raised it to 20 psi, and had virtually NO
>FOAM whatsoever....
>
>Has anyone else tried raising the pressure? I'd be
>interested in hearing about your results. I
>imagine it would be hard to keep a traditional
>hand held cp filler in the bottle at 20 psi.
I do this, and it works for me.
My "problem" is that I have never really read directions for
filling bottles. I do what seem obvious (to me). So,
if the beer is under 15 psi, then you need to be sure to have
15psi in the bottle and the keg, to equal the pressures, and
then the CO2 should stay in solution (where you want it).
Looking forward to seein the pictures of your device...
- Bryan
Bryan Gros gros@bigfoot.com
Oakland, CA
Visit the new Draught Board homebrew website:
http://www.valhallabrewing.com/~thor/dboard/index.htm
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:56:53 -0700
From: Badger Roullett <branderr@microsoft.com>
Subject: shipping beer bottles for competitions..
Greeting Beer Boyo's
Badger here with another question, yes I gots lots of 'em....
There are a couple of competitions coming up, and I was thinking of FINALLY
entering one or two to see how my precious beers are doing. My freinds love
it, and i have won a couple of Brewing Competitions in the SCA. Now I would
like to try the modern ones.
I searched the HBD Archives but could not find a clear answer for this one.
How is the best way to ship bottles to competitions, on a budget. I have
access to tones of bubble wrap, but would rather not buy expensive beer
bottle shipping boxes. Can someone who has done it, tell me how to pack
these so they have survive the trip?
***************************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger
Homepage: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger
In the SCA: Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven
"It had to be a linguistics professor who said that it's man's ability to
use language that makes him the dominant species on the planet. That may
be. But I think there's one other thing that separates us from animals. We
aren't afraid of vacuum cleaners." --Jeff Stilson
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:20:09 -0400
From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: re: Vanilla Beans in Beer
Eric Tepe asks about using vanilla beans in a holiday:
>My idea is to use them in the secondary of a holiday
>porter. I was also wondering if the inside of the bean is sterile and
>if it is not how I would sanitize it.
I must preface this by saying I have never used vanilla beans myself.
However, a friend brewed a very nice vanilla stout using a home-made
vanilla extract. He simply crushed the beans into small pieces and
soaked them in vodka. I don't recall the exact amount of beans, but he
used a very small bottle so there wasn't room for much (not to mention
that vanilla beans are very expensive - sort of a limiting factor on its
own). He got a nice hint of vanilla flavor - which was what he wanted,
not an overpowering amount. I think when people use extracts it is
really easy to use too much. If you didn't want to do an extract, you
might break up the beans and soak them in alcohol briefly to sanitize
them if you worry about just putting them in the secondary.
Mark Tumarkin
Gainesville, FL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:04:36 -0600
From: "Brian Rezac" <brian@aob.org>
Subject: Homebrewers @ the GABF
Fellow Homebrewers,
The GABF is fast approaching and once again the AHA will be hosting a
Homebrewers Gathering at Falling Rock Tap House on Saturday evening,
Oct. 3rd, following the last session of the GABF. (Paul Gatza wanted
to name it, We're Homebrewers and We Haven't Had Enough Beer Yet
Gathering.) Here are the details:
WHAT: HOMEBREWERS GATHERING @ THE GABF
WHEN: Saturday, October 3, 1998 - 8:00 PM
WHERE: Falling Rock Tap House, 1919 Blake St., Denver, CO
HOW: Get a ticket from Paul Gatza or Brian Rezac at any GABF session
(while supplies last) or just show up at Falling Rock. (HINT: The
tickets have directions to Falling Rock and can be redeemed for 1 pint
of dedicated beer.)
WHY: Because we're homebrewers and after five sessions of the Great
American Beer Festival, we still haven't had enough beer yet. Also,
just to celebrate that with all our differences we have something very
special in common, the love of beer and brewing.
WHO DO WE THANK:
Chris Black, King, Falling Rock Tap House (I am going to get Chris to
relate his now-famous Sledgehammer Incident.)
Eric Wallace and Dick Doore, Lefthand Brewing Company, Longmont,
Colorado for donating a keg of their award-winning Sawtooth.
Derek Osborne, Brewer, BJ's Brewery, Boulder, Colorado for donating a
keg of "whatever kind of beer you want." (I still have yet to
choose.)
Mark Tumarkin, who started it all last year by asking, "Any interest
in having an
HBD get-together at a nearby pub after one of the {GABF} sessions?"
With a little more gray, Mark would be one good-looking homebrewer!
LAST BUT NOT LEAST: There will be a gathering of hearing-impaired
homebrewers at Falling Rock at 6 pm on the same night. They will be
having a raffle after 8:00 PM to raise some funds. We encourage your
participation and support of their worthy cause.
PS: This year at the GABF, the AHA will be promoting the theme, If
You Can Drink It, You Can Brew It! We will encourage GABF attendees
to come to the AHA booth once they find a commercial beer that they
enjoy. At the AHA booth we will have experienced homebrewers who will
formulate a "best guess" recipe for the soon-to-be homebrewer to take
to his local homebrew shop.
If you're interested in helping out with this attempt to try to get
more folks brewing, send me an email.
Thanks for your time. See you at the GABF!
Brian Rezac
Membership Development Director
American Homebrewers Association
736 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302
303 447-0816, ext. 121
brian@aob.org http://beertown.org
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:22:02 -0700
From: Corky Courtright <corky@discover.net>
Subject: Gott (Rubbermaid) cooler mash tun
I'm about to take the plunge and go to all grain. I plan on using a Gott
type cooler as a mash tun. I'm trying to decide if I should buy a 5 gallon
or 10 gallon cooler to make my mash tun out of. How much grain (in pounds)
can I mash in each? Is it worth the difference in price to go for the 10
gallon or do you think that I will I probably go to a different method for
mashing if I step up to 10 gallon batches? What type of false bottom or
screen do you recommend?
Tnx, Corky
Private email OK
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:56:16 -0700
From: frank@metaflow.com (Frank O'Bleness (ST))
Subject: Winter Lager recipe
I was wondering if anyone had a recipe for a winter lager (i.e.
something along the lines of Sam Adams Winter Lager or similar).
Thanks.
Frank
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #2830, 09/22/98
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