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HOMEBREW Digest #2764
HOMEBREW Digest #2764 Fri 10 July 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Priming; Pumpkin Ale; Limes; Cascade Hops (Samuel Mize)
Lime ("A. J. deLange")
Cereal Mashes ("Darren Gaylor")
Webmasters (Michael Tucker)
RE: Crystal fermentable/Fining in the kettle with Irish moss (John Wilkinson)
Thanks ("David R. Burley")
Re: Grist% / High Hops! (Al Korzonas)
RE:Sam Smith's Oatmeal Stout ("Frederick J. Wills")
BREW DAY FROM HELL ("Thomas Kramer")
Re: Slaked Lime ("Gregory A. Lorton")
culturing over flame (Al Korzonas)
Alexander's Brix 80% ("PETER F GILBRETH")
re: CO2 oops ("Paul E. Lyon")
Propane indoors - detectors (David A Bradley)
Culture over flames... (Some Guy)
Recipe Help ("Rich, Charles")
New AHA Figurehead Announced! Advertisement Catalog Now Monthly! (Some Guy)
Yeast Starters(Even Simpler) ("Val J. Lipscomb")
Chlorine in water ("30hollywood")
Refridgerator, glass airlocks, wort chilling (Randy Miner)
how much real maple syrup for an 11 gallon batch? (Jonathan Edwards)
testing (Lizardhead)
Yeast Starter (Kyle Druey)
The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
Have you entered a MCAB qualifier yet?
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 09:27:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Samuel Mize <smize@prime.imagin.net>
Subject: Priming; Pumpkin Ale; Limes; Cascade Hops
Martin & Christine ask about priming. You might check the beginner
write-ups in the technical library at the Brewery (http://www.brewery.org)
and these two articles there:
* A Primer on Priming, by Mark Hibberd
* Dave's Preferred Priming Procedure, by Dave Draper: expands on
work of Mark Hibberd
I don't know if corn sugar takes longer. How long are you waiting? How
cool are you storing them?
By the way, Many of us prefer to prime the entire batch at once. This lets
you boil the sugar in a little water, reducing a (small) infection risk.
Some people find it easier to get consistent results with batch priming,
some do better with bottle priming.
- - - - - - - - - -
John Watts asks about pumpkin ale: "Does the pumpkin contribute anything
other than mouthfeel?" I don't know that it even contributes that. My
pumpkin ale was one of the thinnest I've ever brewed, although it WAS an
early effort (not that I'm an expert now...) One person posted that his
best pumpkin ale used the pumpkin-pie spices and no pumpkin.
So I'd say, use crystal malt or malto-dextrin powder (is that right?) to
get a sweeter base beer, add the spices, and mash in some pumpkin if you
feel like it. I'd add the spices very late in the boil, or even "dry
spice" with them -- comments?
- - - - - - - - - -
Scott Kaczorowski posts:
> I know this isn't homebrew-related, but Al K. started it ;-)
You're covered. Remember the header:
> FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
He continues, about lime in Corona bottle necks:
> Most likely it stems from the practice of including a small
> bowl of sliced limes ("limon", actually - a lemon/lime hybrid)
> on tables in restaurants.
Interesting. Patricia Quintana, in a cookbook, comments that in Mexico
they call limes lemons ("limon"). The hybrid theory sounds right.
> Take a swag of beer, suck on a lime. With some beers on some
> days, a good slug of lime juice in your cerveza just plain ol'
> WORKS. I'm sure the practice predates Corona, and I'm also sure
> it has to do with flavor rather than scaring flies away, etc.
Certainly lime-ades are refreshing. I believe that citrus replaces some
chemicals lost in perspiration (a rudimentary Gatorade). This is the most
reasonable-sounding theory yet. I still don't care for the combo myself.
I do, however, love the image of a bunch of beer-snob wannabes, sticking
lime in their Corona in cold weather because you're "supposed" to drink it
that way, when it's done to make it a better hot-weather refresher!
Of course, if you actually like it, then drink it that way. Stick a lime
in your Guiness, for all I care, but I wish restaurants wouldn't stick one
in the neck of MY beer without even asking.
- - - - - - - - - -
Frederick L. Pauly writes that his "nitrogen-purged 02 barrier bag of whole
flower cascade" has little aroma, but his "little plastic bag of cascade
pellets" has a good aroma.
Pelletization give you better access to the heart of the hops. -snicker-
Seriously. Here's some speculation.
It may be that the crushing of pelletization releases the aromatics, and
the packaging retained it. (Your pellets are likely to be in a purged
barrier bag too, if you use a good shop.) The whole hops are, of course,
uncrushed. You might try crushing a few of the flowers under a rolling
pin, or boiling them in a little water, and see if the whole hops release
the aroma you want. If so, it should release in the steeping.
One experiment is worth a dozen wise men (or a hundred wise guys like me).
Best,
Sam Mize
- --
Samuel Mize -- smize@imagin.net (home email) -- Team Ada
Fight Spam: see http://www.cauce.org/ \\\ Smert Spamonam
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 09:50:28 -0500
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Lime
Steve Jackson asks about the use of lime to decarbonate. This is indeed
frequently done by larger breweries and by water treatment facilities
where the source water is hard but seldom by homebrewers in this
country. For as tidy a description of how to do it as one could hope to
find see Hubert Hanghofer's post of 23 Oct 1997 (#2450).
One of the reasons homebrewers in the US seldom use this procedure is
that the water treatement plant will usually have beaten you to the
punch i.e. if the local water is hard they will soften it in order to
prevent occlusion of their distribution system. Thus the water out of
the taps in most places in the US is already about as soft as you are
likely to be able to get it easily by boiling or lime treatement.
DeClerk indicates than a decarbonation plant is working if the
alkalinity is a millival (50 ppm as CaCO3) or less at the output. The
reason I mention this is because of Steve's comment to the effect that a
small amount of crystal malt will get his mash pH to reasonable values.
This is indicative of a low level of bicarbonate in the water. If
boiling precipitates chalk, lime treatment should precipitate it too. A
hint: "seed" the mix with a smidgeon of chalk to aid precipitation
(boiling or lime treatment).
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 07:50:39 -0700
From: "Darren Gaylor" <dwgaylor@pacifier.com>
Subject: Cereal Mashes
In HBD #2759, Jeff Renner describes the process of double/cereal mashing as
"fun". Gotta agree with him. The Classic American Pilsner is a great style
of beer and a cereal mash is an enjoyable departure from the usual single
infusion mash. I try to brew this style once or twice a year. If the
thought of using cereals in you beer scares you, try an all-malt decoction
mash.
My latest version can be found at
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator?group=34&item=280. It's all gone
now and my chest freezer is dead. No more lagers until the winter, I guess.
Thanks Jeff.
Darren Gaylor
Vancouver, WA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 10:40:14 -0400
From: Michael Tucker <mtucker@mrin.com>
Subject: Webmasters
Um, I am an independant webmaster/consultant and can help if someone needs it.
> uses UNIX, NT, and a bunch of other stuff that
>impresses the heck out of me, then draws a blank on how to put
>his recipes on his website.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 98 10:28:40 CDT
From: jwilkins@wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson)
Subject: RE: Crystal fermentable/Fining in the kettle with Irish moss
In case anyone missed it, Mort O'Sullivan submitted what seemed to me a good
explanation of the lack of fermentables from crystal malt. That was in HBD
#2758. There has been further speculation on the subject in later HBDs so
I thought maybe some missed Mort's excellent (as usual) contribution.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Humes asked about using Irish Moss in the kettle and reported a
"colloidal suspension hanging in the middle of my fermenters" when he
used it.
I use Irish Moss in every brew that I remember to add it and have experienced
no strange cloudiness in my fermenters. I usually ferment in a SS Cornelius
type keg so would not see it there but when I have used glass carboys I still
did not see anything like Dave reported. My beers usually come out pretty
clear. I can't say how much of that is due to Irish Moss, though, as I have
done no real comparisons.
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins@wss.dsccc.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 12:23:05 -0400
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Thanks
Brewsters:
Thanks to all the HBDers who have written with concern for
my apparent sudden disappearance. I'll use this to tell all
those who are interested.
Summary : I'm OK. Thanks for asking!
I have been extremely busy with travelling to California for my
son's graduation ( finally off the payroll!), visiting friends all
over CA, three days after returning to NJ drove my buddy's
wife's car to North Carolina.
Played golf for several days with friends in NC.
Flew home played golf in NJ, mowed grass, etc. etc. Drove
back down to SC for some personal business and played golf,
etc. Daughter came home from England for a break in her
thesis writing. Parties, golf. Friend of some 30 years died
unexpectedly from a heart attack 6 days after he moved to
Tallahassee. I read in a paper the next day that the risk of a
heart attack a week after moving is extremely high.
So busy I haven't even had time to turn on the computer.
I have lots of reading to do!
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Dave_Burley@compuserve.com
Voice e-mail OK
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 12:09:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Al Korzonas <korz@xnet.com>
Subject: Re: Grist% / High Hops!
Jeff writes (quoting me and was kind enough to Cc: me):
>>Unless otherwise specified, recipes specify the percentages of the >grist
>>by the weight of the malt.
>
>See, now I would have assumed the opposite. If a recipe author is giving
>the grist in percentages (and, presumably, a target O.G.) rather than
>absolute weight of each grain, she recognizes that that is the most
>accurate way to reproduce the recipe on another system with a different
>efficiency. She should also recognize that different grains from
>different malsters could have different extract potentials. Therefore,
>it would be more accurate to specify the grain bill in terms of
>percentages of extract from each grain, and let the brewer figure out
>how much of each grain to use based on extract potentials and system
>efficiency.
You are absolutely correct that it would be more accurate to give the
grain bill in terms of percentages of the extract, but then again, let's
consider this a bit more closely...
Indeed you may get more points/pound/gallon from DeWolf-Cosyns CaraVienne
than from Briess 6-row 20L crystal, but if you specified the brands you
used, then either % by weight or % by extract would be equally accurate
although they would not be equivalent (different numbers). On the other
hand, if you did not give the specific maltster, both % by weight and
% by extract are equally vague, no?
>Anyway, that's what I would have assumed. The only recipes that I've
>seen that specify grain bills in percentages are those published in the
>_Stout_ book in the style series, and Dr. Lewis does mean percentage of
>extract. But, then, Dr. Lewis does state that, so it doesn't contradict
>Al's answer.
There are exceptions, but I feel that when a writer says: "Witbiers may
contain up to 5% rye in the grist..." they mean by weight. This (and
things like oats in Oatmeal Stouts and unmalted barley in Dry Stouts)
I believe is the most common occurance of the use of percentages when
talking about recipes. It has to do with the general rules of formulating
a particular recipe rather than an explicit recipe for a particular beer.
This is what I meant when I've posted "Bitters typically have 5 to 10%
crystal malt, although some have none (most notably Timothy Taylor Landlord)."
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz@xnet.com
http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 13:11:13 -0400
From: "Frederick J. Wills" <Frederick_Wills@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:Sam Smith's Oatmeal Stout
"Michael O. Hanson" <mhanson@winternet.com> asks:
<<Does anyone out there know of or know where I can find an extract-based
recipe that comes out tasting something like Samuel Smith's oatmeal
stout?
I know extract is considered inferior to all-grain brewing by some
brewers.
I would agree that all-grain brewing makes better beer when the grain is
handled properly. However, I have a friend who wants to try to make beer
resembling Samuel Smith's oatmeal stout....>>
I would say that there are two things that are the hallmarks of SS
Oatmeal
Stout. One is the creamy fullish mouthfeel that others have remarked on.
I would not hesitate to use a little (1/2 lb or so) rolled oats in with
some other steeping grains (chocolate malt, dark crystal and roasted
barley) to help achieve the results. Yes you will be adding some cloudy
starches and proteins. So what. It's going to be (or should be) black
as
night anyway. Who's going to notice?
Otherwise, Williams sells something called Oatmeal extract. I don't know
what it is exactly and have never used it, but it may be worth
investigating. I'm sure it was made for just such a beer.
The second, and perhaps more critical element, for SS beers is the
pronounced buttery character that comes from diacetyl produced during the
fermentation. This may be a bit more difficult for you to produce at
home,
extract or not. You will want to find a yeast that is a known heavy
diacetyl producer and then try and manipulate the fermentation to get it
really "over the top".
One technique might be to try and keep the fermentation temperature at
the
very coolest end for the particular yeast strain being used. I'm sure
there are other techniques which I can't think of right now. Perhaps
someone else will chime in.
I understand that the high diacety at SS is due to their fermentation
system called a "Yorkshire Square". I'm not really up to speed on what
it
entails. Again, one of the all-knowing and knowledgeable collective may
be
able to help us out here.
Go ahead and grab yourself a bottle of any of the Samuel Smith's beers
and
give it a try yourself. It's actually even more obvious in the pale ale
and nut brown than in the Stout. See if you don't taste a whole pound
of
butterscotch in there, once you start looking for it.
Good Luck,
Fred Wills
Londonderry, NH
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 14:04:26 -0400
From: "Thomas Kramer" <tkramer@monad.net>
Subject: BREW DAY FROM HELL
I am sending this in because, I wanted to share my night mare with
people who will appreciate it. Last Saturday afternoon ( the Fourth of
July) I stared to brew my basic IPA all grain, against my better judgement
because, I don't like to brew when my wives home from work. Any way
everything was going relay smoothly, my mash temp were right on, my sparge,
was flowing just right, no spill's ect. At about 8:30pm the wort was ready
to pitch, I had a Qt off slurry all ready to go, I pitched into my 6gal
glass carboy, carried down to the basement, and I was shacking it up with a
solid rubber stopper in. My worst night mare happen it slipped right out of
my hands, in the few seconds as my would be beer and carboy headed towards
the floor I though it should not break it's thick glass, well it did! and as
5gal of sticky was going to be beer splashed out, I then thought there go's
all my beer, then I though what a bad sticky mess. After a few more seconds
I looked down at my feet and my toes were a bloody mess. I told my wife to
drop me off at the emergency room, and go borrow a wet vac, at start
cleaning up the mess. An hour latter I had one toe with stitched up and
tree other with bandages.
tom
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 11:35:12 -0700
From: "Gregory A. Lorton" <glorton@cts.com>
Subject: Re: Slaked Lime
In HBD #2762, Steve Jackson wrote
"I have read in various places that bicarbonate (aka "temporary
hardness") can be removed from water by either boiling or by using
slaked lime....
<snip>
so I was wondering about the
use of slaked lime to get the bicarbonate out of my water. Since I
have not been able to find any details on its use and its suitability
for human consumption, I figured I'd see if anyone out there has
experience or insight."
Greg Noonan talks about using slaked lime in "New Brewing Lager Beer" (in
an around page 64).
Slaked lime (CA(OH)2) works by converting soluble bicarbonate to insoluble
carbonate by the following reaction:
Ca(OH)2 + Ca(HCO3)2 --> 2CaCO3 + 2H2O
For each gram of bicarbonate ion (HCO3-) in the water, you need about 0.6
grams of slaked lime. If you know your alkalinity (expressed as calcium
carbonate), but not your bicarbonate ion concentration, multiply the
alkalinity by about 1.22 to find bicarbonate ion concentration (in normal
water), then multiply that times the amount of water (in liters) to find
milligrams of bicarbonate in there, then multiply that by 0.6 to find
milligrams of slaked lime, then divide that by 1000 to find grams of slaked
lime needed (is your calculator warmed up?)
Chemist out there! Please correct me if I'm wrong.
BTW, Greg Noonan suggests that you don't convert all of the bicarbonate,
leave some behind (as appropriate to the style). Therefore, you should
back off on the slaked lime added. I would imagine that if you add too
much anyway, you start to screw up the pH of your water.
Greg Lorton
Carlsbad, CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 13:45:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Al Korzonas <korz@xnet.com>
Subject: culturing over flame
I am not a biologist, but I believe that I'm a pretty keen observer.
I've never been very comfortable with that "asceptic curtain" concept
of working close to a flame. You see, if you look at smoke rising
from a flame (like a campfire) and how it acts when it comes near
some other object (like a branch), you'll notice that small eddy currents
are formed that loop back around the object. You can also observe
this in the heat currents' diffraction of light you see above a clean-
burning flame.
While it may be true that any microbiota that gets sucked into the
actual flame of the burner will be killed, I also believe that the
flame's action will also set up a upwards current of air *next* to
the flame... air that does not actually pass through the flame.
It is this air and the eddys formed around your hands and the mouth
of the glassware that I believe are the concern. I believe that
working in the vicinity of a flame may actually be *worse* than
working in a relatively dust-free room with still air.
A laminar flow hood works by first *filtering* the air that it
blows across the work area. This is very different from a flame
whose updraught will be pulling air of questionable cleanliness
from all over the room, don't you think?
Just another point of view...
Al.
Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz@xnet.com
http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 13:54:52 -0700
From: "PETER F GILBRETH" <BARLEYWINE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Alexander's Brix 80%
Regarding:
>>From: JPullum127@aol.com
>>Subject: extract brix ratings
>
>>good point about the brix rating. I think the muntons are around 80,
>>anybody know about alexanders. I can't find a web page for them. (official
>>company name is california concentrate co.) while we are on the subject
>>how would you calculate brix ratings into a probable target gravity
>thanks
>
>
Here is the company analysis for Alexander's Pale Malt:
Extract: 80.0
pH, 10% Sol. 5.24
iodine reaction Neg
Color (SRM), 10% Sol. 2.2
Iron, ppm, 10% Sol. 0.10
Nitrogen, %, 10% Sol. 0.065
Acidity, % Lactic Acid 0.94
Reducing Sugar, % Anhydrous
Maltose, 10% Sol. 4.60
FAN, ppm, 10% Sol. 128
Extract levels for all Alexanders Extracts are 80.0
Color (SRM) for Wheat: 4.2
Amber: 14.4
Dark: 24.4
All other parameters are very close to above pale malt parameters.
It is difficult to convert this information to a S.G. But this should work:
>From Greg Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer" pg 261-2, the chart
labeled Density:
for a SG of 1.050 (balling 12.5) you need
1.095 lbs extract per gallon.
1 lb 80% extract yields (1)(.80) = .8 lbs extract. (This is pure
solids with all water removed.)
So for 5 gallons of wort SG 1.050,
(1.095 lbs)(1 lb syrup /.8 lbs extract) = 1.36875 lbs per gallon
1.36875 * 5 = 6.84375 lbs syrup.
To make this easier:
(50 pts)(5 gal) / (6.84375 lbs) = 36.53968 pts/lb/gal.
So for an 80 brix syrup, use 36.54 pts/lb/gal and you will be very close.
ie: one can of Alex Pale at 4 lbs and 36.54 pts/lb/gal in 5 gallons total
volume is (4)(36.54)/ 5 = 29.232 SG.
Two cans becomes (8)(36.54) / 5 = 58.464.
Hope this helps
Peter Gilbreth
barleywine@prodigy.net
www.barleywine.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 15:06:27 -0400
From: "Paul E. Lyon" <lyon@osb1.wff.nasa.gov>
Subject: re: CO2 oops
In hbd 2760 and 2759 M. W. Bardallis talks about having to leave kegs
with a certain level of CO2 on them based on CO2 volumes in the beer.
I have both hand held spigots and bar style taps for my kegs. Though the
hand held spigots can handle a higher dispensing rate than the bar style
taps, both styles can't handle a flow rate that is supplied by pushing beer
out at 12-15 lbs without forming a huge head. I dispense all my beers at
between 4 and 8 lbs, depending on whether I'm using hand held spigot or bar
style taps and the beer style. I never recharge the keg but if a long
period has passed (say a week) since my last pint from a certain keg, I will
let the excess pressure off the keg before pouring a pint. I have not
noticed any major CO2 level decrease in the kegged beer using this method.
Maybe I drink my kegs faster than others, but I don't think you really need
to store your kegs under a set level of CO2 to maintain carbonation levels
unless you are moving your kegs around. Agitated beer will outgass if the
pressure is not in equalibrium, but still beer doesn't seem to outgass very
fast......
Anyone else have similar experience?
Thanks,
Paul E. Lyon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 14:12:35 -0500
From: David A Bradley <BRADLEY_DAVID_A@lilly.com>
Subject: Propane indoors - detectors
I too have used propane for brewing indoors. It still makes me nervous,
this after three years of use. This is good as it keeps me honest in each
use,
doing things like soaping each joint in the gas line for leak detection,
keeping the tank outside except while under fire, use of detectors, exhaust
and make-up air fans, no unattended flames, etc...
Oh, to my point. I use a CO detector like others do. Its mounted head level
to look for this (slightly) lighter than air gas at the region where I would
be
directly affected. Just to clarify, the detectors with numeric readouts are
nice because you can see if CO builds up before dangerous levels result.
Oh, now to my real point: you can buy a *propane* detector fairly cheaply
in the same stores that sell CO detectors. I use one as added insurance,
and if you do this, mount it close to the floor near the tank. Ideally, the
tank
would be outside, but the lines are still potential leak sources.
And FYI, I frequently boil Teflon (TM, R, P, C, etc) tape in a Teflon pan,
collecting the CF2 and ionic F to use as sanitizer for my fermenters.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I wish Charlie lived somewhere
closer to me than CA....Charlie, you must be fun to talk/do brewing with!!
How about a 60g (more?) batch of worm ale??
Dave in Indy
Home of the 3-B Brewery (v.) Ltd.
and of the newest assistant brewery, Eric James Bradley born 7/1/98.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 16:37:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Some Guy <pbabcock@oeonline.com>
Subject: Culture over flames...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager aseptically...
AlK, apparently taking umbrage to my statement in HBD 2761:
> Being that even a laminar flow hood is "iffy" if the interior is
> contaminated, a propane torch is a pretty cheap alternative.
Writes...
> A laminar flow hood works by first *filtering* the air that it
> blows across the work area. This is very different from a flame
> whose updraught will be pulling air of questionable cleanliness
> from all over the room,
Note the qualification, Al. The post also questions whether manipulations
over flame are aseptic. Nice restraint, though.
> don't you think?
Yes. All the time. And it's damnedably irritating, too....
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock@oeonline.com
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html
"Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..."
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 13:42:28 -0700
From: "Rich, Charles" <CRich@filenet.com>
Subject: Recipe Help
OK, I'll bite.. Here's my 2p,
I'm American, west coast, have travelled in the UK many times and prefer
English styles of ales. I've won 1st places and Best-of-Shows for my
English Pales and Bitters. I'm not familiar with Rooster's and don't
know if it's British or North American but the hopping schedule you're
considering will turn anything into an American West Coast Style
interpretation. The Cascades alone would do that! For an English
interpretation I'd use your native hops, maybe Northdown for the
90-minute boil and a 1/3+2/3 Fuggle/Golding mix for the later additions
for a profound flowery Pale. Your yeast and ferment will account for
your fruity notes. If you can score some of Rooster's yeast you'll be
well on your way. I'd like to talk about your hopping schedule though.
When I make a beer that I want to show a firm hop flavor, I bias the
hopping schedule so that more of the target bittering comes from later,
large additions. This works up a larger profile in flavors you can
taste and which carry aromas which survive the ferment. If I want a 45
IBU Pale, I take 20% of that 45 IBU target from my 90-minute boiling hop
addition, 50% from a 40-minute addition, and 30% from a 20-minute boil.
I know this is profligate with hops, but the results are very pretty.
So, for instance if only using a 6% AA hop I'd add: 0.4-oz for
90-minutes (9 IBU), 1.3-ozs for 30-minutes (22.5 IBU) and 1.25-oz for
20-minutes (13.5 IBU). These are worked out using SUDSW and in
real-life I'd fudge to the nearest 1/4 oz and eyeball high or low. A 75
IBU pale, as you're considering, comes to: 2/3-oz 90-minutes (15 IBU),
2.2-oz 40-minutes (37.5 IBU) and 3-oz for 20 minutes (22.5 IBU). This
would be *very* big in hoppiness and I'd cut it down to not more than 60
IBU to keep some balance.
Like you, I don't care for a lot of Crystal flavor but I'll often miss
it when absent, I usually add some small portion. For most of my
English beers I usually have some proportion of Munich-Crystal-Maize as
additional grains. Make sure your Crystal+Maize amounts to less than
15% of your base grain by weight so it'll convert. I wouldn't add
wheat, your head will be fine and you can use the diastatic cost in more
flavorful adjuncts. I suggest trying, 1-lb Munich (or more) + 1/2-lb
crystal and 1/4-lb Maize (or more) in addition to your 9-lbs Pale malt
with a simple infusion at 152F for 60-90 minutes.
Now, after all that, it'll probably turn out that Rooster's is American
and you really want the West Coast style - Jeesh!
One man's opinion,
Charles "York has been very, very good to me" Rich (Bothell, WA)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 16:56:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Some Guy <pbabcock@oeonline.com>
Subject: New AHA Figurehead Announced! Advertisement Catalog Now Monthly!
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
>From BrewsGram 7-8-98...
**Paul Gatza Named New AHA Director**
Boulder, CO - The American Homebrewers Association (AHA), has appointed Paul
Gatza as its new director. Prior to becoming a member of the AHA, Gatza owned
and managed a homebrewing retail shop in Boulder, Colorado. Gatza has been an
avid homebrewer for the better part of a decade, and has won several awards in
AHA competitions for his beer and mead. He also serves as a technical advisor
to Zymurgy magazine. He replaces Jim Parker, who left the directorship to brew
beer in the Colorado mountains (lucky bastard!).
"We are very excited to have Paul Joining the AHA team," says Cathy Ewing,
vice president of the AHA's parent organization, the Association of Brewers.
"Paul brings a unique combination of non-profit experience, homebrew retailing
experience and award-winning homebrewing experience with him. He will be an
excellent ambassador for the hobby because he understands brewing and has
worked with homebrewers for many years."
In other AHA news, fans of Zymurgy magazine will be glad to hear it's going
bimonthly. Beginning with the September/October issue, the AHA will publish
the great homebrewing magazine six times a year instead of four. This year's
special "theme" edition of Zymurgy will be released in November, and will
focus on brewers yeast.
******
I have but one question: Who the hell is Paul Gatza? How is it that the
AHA always manages to find these faceless, nameless people to take the
scapegoat - er - "directorship"? (OK, sorry: that was actually two
questions...)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 17:13:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay@NetXpress.com>
Subject: Yeast Starters(Even Simpler)
Marc.Arseneau wrote:
"In keeping with my life's ambition of removing as much
effort as possible from brewing, and also in keeping with
the recent complaints regarding the overly-complex nature
of the HBD-------"
As a true believer in Marc's ambition and the pure principle of
KISS,here's a chart I copied off the 'Net a few years ago (may
even have been off the HBD). I've checked it a couple of times
and it's pretty close. Being "Formula Impaired",to me it is an
"even simpler" way to figure starters. Use it in good health. As
always,YMMV!
Val Lipscomb-brewing in San Antonio-where lately we can mash at
ambient temps (damn near).
"With this formula it is easy to construct a table showing what
weight (grams) of DME to add to a given volume of water to
get a desired gravity:"
Desired Pints of Water
Gravity 1.00 1.25 1.50 1.75 2.00
1.025 24.3 30.4 36.4 42.5 48.6
1.030 31.4 39.3 47. 1 55.0 62.9
1 .035 38.6 48.2 57.9 67.5 77. 1
1.040 45.7 57. 1 68.6 80.0 91.4
1.045 52.9 66. 1 79.3 92.5 105.7
1.050 60.0 75.0 90.0 105.0 120.0
l.055 67. 1 83.9 100.7 117.5 134.2
1.060 74.3 92.9 111.4 130.0 148.6
1.065 81.4 101.8 122.1 142.9 162.9
1.070 88.6 110.7 132.9 155.0 177.1
1.075 95.7 119.6 143.6 167.5 191.3
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 22:24:02 -0400
From: "30hollywood" <30hollywood@email.msn.com>
Subject: Chlorine in water
I recently found out that my town's water supply does not add chlorine to
the water. What effect, if any, does this have on a homebrew? I would think
that this is a positive.
Mr. Sammy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 22:44:53 -0400
From: Randy Miner <rdm07993@pegasus.cc.ucf.edu>
Subject: Refridgerator, glass airlocks, wort chilling
Hi all,
Since I've been lurking for a while, I'll answer an easy one (as will many
others I suspect).
In HBD 2762 Bill Rehm asks:
Does anyone know where I can get glass airlocks
<SNIP>
Try Heart's Homebrew (no affiliation) in Orlando, FL or on the web at
http://www.heartshomebrew.com I have one and like it, but it seems a little
fragile to be boiled with a lot of other things bumping it around.
I am using an old Tappan side by side type fridge to ferment/condition in,
with the Johnson temperature controller.
I am considering the pros/cons of removing the partition between the
fridge/freezer. The coils are in the back of the freezer behind a metal
cover, (though I haven't actually removed that cover to see them). I'd have
a lot of room but I'm not sure it would be worth it. Has anyone done this?
I also think I could have a lager in the freezer side and an ale in the
fridge at the same time the way it is now. The temp is 44F/64F with the
connecting vents at the top and bottom wide open. I could also put a tap
on the door and keg in the freezer while fermenting in the fridge...
Definately leaning toward leaving it.
I have read some HBD archives that seem to say that generally the defrost
cycle is not a problem. Comments?
I seem to recall reading that some fridges have heating elements in them in
some outer surfaces to prevent condensation. Is this true? If so, would
it be a bad idea to disable them? Could I drill through one and suffer
extreme bodily damage?
I suspect the fridge is costing me a fortune to run since it is in my
garage in Central Florida (ie: 100F outside, 120F in garage?) Has anyone
ever tried to add insulation (panels, canned foams, etc.) to make a fridge
more efficient? S.O. was not interested in moving it into the house!
Last question: Any suggestions on chilling when the tap water is 82F ?
Maybe a chiller in an ice bath then into the wort? Not a problem now with
extract as I put my small boil volume into a carboy half full of icey
water. What can I do when I start all-grain batches though? Personally, I
would rather not let it sit all night (and don't want that thread started
again). Ice bath isn't an option with a 3 tier system is it? Ice water in
the HLT and run through chiller in wort? Would need a recirc. pump too
this for long enough time... What do other people with hot tap water do?
TIA
Randy
_______________________________________________
______| Randy Miner |_____
\ | rdm07993@pegasus.cc.ucf.edu (home) | /
\ | | /
/ | http://pegasus.cc.ucf.edu/~rdm07993/home.html | \
/ |_______________________________________________| \
/________) (_______\
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 23:31:44 -0400
From: Jonathan Edwards <jdedward@us.ibm.com>
Subject: how much real maple syrup for an 11 gallon batch?
hey now,
i'm getting ready to do an all grain 11 gallon batch of maple porter...any
ideas on how much real vermont maple syrup to use? i've got 1 gallon in the
fridge...i'm thinking of using it all. what i'm looking for is a good maple
flavor but not a dominating one. i've seached the web and cat's meow but
haven't really found a definitive answer. i'm looking for something along the
line of Saranac's maple porter.
thanks,
jonathan
ShakeDown Street Brewery
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 98 21:55:48 -0600
From: Lizardhead <memerson@fone.net>
Subject: testing
I've developed a brewing recipe formulation and brewing records database
that runs on Filemaker Pro. I'm looking for feedback on it's functions
and hopefully on ways to improve it. If you'd like to be a G.Pig, I
would appreciate the opportunity to allow you to try it. Requirements? -
You must be an all grain brewer, (it's not formulated for extracts), you
must own Filemaker Pro 3.0 or higher for Mac or IBM. Please e-mail me
privately if you're interested, I will take the first 7-10 inquiries.
Thanks, Mark Youngquist - Rock Bottom Breweries.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 10:22:56 -0700
From: Kyle Druey <druey@ibm.net>
Subject: Yeast Starter
I am interested in everyone's opinion on the issue of how a yeast
starter may possibly affect the taste of the finished beer.
We are admonished to make large starters, up to 1 gallon at times, then
pitch this into the wort. Maybe your starter's are different, but my
starters taste like Corona without the lime (puke!). When I think about
it, it has to alter the taste of the beer in some way. What do y'all
think?
On a side issue, the "Y" key on my keyboard does not always work and I
often have to strike the key several times to get it to respons. Anyone
know how I can fix this?
Thanks for any opinions or advice.
Kyle
Bakersfield, CA
PS - And a warm welcome to Dave Burley, who has not posted in the last 2
months. Dave is a prior poster, and has posted 3,592 times in 1997, and
571 times in 1998. Welcome back Dave!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 00:29:57 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@ames.net>
Subject: The Jethro Gump Report
The Jethro Gump Report
Been out of the loop lately.....and been in others.....but here's the
latest.....
"Beer History Goes Flat for TV Channel"
"An American History of Beer," a 30 minute documentary scheduled to air
on the Learning Channel this summer, has been cancelled by Johnathan
Rodgers, President of TLC, after he was made aware of it.
The show, set to air during the afternoon hours of Saturday, July 11,
and Sunday, July 12th came under fire for being shown during hours when
children were most likely to be channel surfing ....and for blurring the
lines between documentary and 'infomercial.'
The show, defended by Steve Cheskin, VP Programming, TLC, was cancelled
by Mr. Rodgers after inquiries by the Wall Street Journal. Said Mr. Cheskin,
"Clearly, Anheuser Busch is a good advertiser, and somebody we'd like to do
business with," he said in reference to the 116 million dollar a year beer
advertiser, "In terms of a business relationship, it will help us in dealing
with Anheuser, But we would not take this program unless we thought it was
acceptable."
WSJ, 7.1.98
"Big Brewers Find Price War Seems to Have No End"
The WSJ, the very next day ran this article, detailing the efforts and
effects of discounting to maintain share, if not profitability. According to
the "Beer Marketer's Insights," such efforts have lead to A-B's profits per
barrel falling to $90.58 in 1997, from $91.12 the year earlier. Miller's
revenues fell from $80.79 per bbl to $78.19 for the same period. (How much
does your beer cost?)
WSJ, 7.2.98
Jethro Sez....
While one wonders @ the career development of Mr. Cheskin, it seems a
fair bet that the AB program will air, sooner or later. Amid the
controversy, the only thing that is a sure bet to change is the cost to AB.
This is not a bad thing, for while I am hungry to see any TV devoted to beer
related subjects, I would like to see one of the planet's most voracious
marketers pay for their own advertising.
After a weekend that saw the re-run of a history of the Coor's family,
(worts) and all, the easy money on this program by AB sez that for sure
there is nothing but a warm fuzzy feeling left for the viewer about the
Busch clan.
Pay for play is all that is required here!
BATF PC Finally Allows Pinup Brew.......
Despite having been approved by a federal agency, the United States Army
Air Force, over 50 years ago....images of 'nose-art' from allied bombers of
WWII were finally approved for display on beer cans destined for the US
market from a German brewer.
The pin-ups, one of whom originally held a bomb, now sporting a lasso,
were denied authorization, as being 'too War-Like," as were the depictions
of bombs used to denote missions completed, in the initial BATF
applications.
The cans were also declared to be 'too ribald,' so expect the pin-ups to
be more demure than those originally on the cans sold in Germany.
The irony lies in the fact that the cans had been sold for some time in
Germany, brewed by a German brewer, with those same markings declared
insufficiently "PC" by the BATF.
1998 MBAA Midwestern Technical Conference...
In contrast to the National Conference of The MBAA in September, which
would cost individual non-member daily rates of $200 not including social
activities, the Midwestern Division of the MBAA's Conference is affordable!
Beginning 7.17.98 in Madison Wisconsin, the total cost to participants,
including social events, but not tours to local breweries, is only $90. But
for the budget and technically minded, the costs for the Saturday morning
tech sessions is only $ 10!
For that you get 3 sessions, from a list of 7. Hopefully, one also has
access to transcripts of the other sessions.
Chatting with Jerry Hilton, organizer, he emphasized the desire of the
District Milwaukee and District St. Paul of the MBAA, to include not only
small micro and pub brewers, but also homebrewers.
Said Mr. Hilton, "We have had a bit of a disagreement with the National
office over inclusion of smaller folks, and the pricing of offerings, but we
feel that if anyone is interested enough to want to attend our conference,
we are interested in having them."
While the deadline for application is officially 7.13.98, Mr. Hilton
stated that they would be accepted right up to the moment @ the door.
Contact Jerry Hilton @ <hilton@execpc.com> for further info.
Noting that baby sitting is offered @ the conference hotel, the Marriott
West, (608)-831-2040, Jethro might even go with the micro-brewer, Robbie.
Brew-Rat-Chat....
Jethro is pleased to have been associated with the reprobates @ the
Brew-Rats Cyber Beer Club for a short while now.....He is pleased to belong
to what is now his 4th homebrew club, and the first that is purely cyber
space oriented. Populated by members from the global neighborhood, I am
impressed with the degree of camaraderie expressed amongst brewers that, on
the whole, have never met each other. Much like the HBD!
While they certainly aren't for everyone, as they not only dispense beer
knowledge, edged with 'puter geek technobabble, but often times the
conversations range from the mundane to the obscene. But, as with any other
e-media, if you don't care for the topic @ hand, merely scroll down, or just
verbally abuse them! Be careful though, for they are known to bite back!
Especially honored among the club is St. Strange, one of whom's writings
will be included in the HBD by Jethro.
Old Thread....
While Jethro has been plagued by computer woes that have left him for
the first time in years without daily access, (I am writing this on a
borrowed unit), and while he has no desire to open old wounds, a comment
must be made.
Charles Ehlers' points regarding etiquette and courtesy were well taken
by Jethro, especially considering that we were both members of the same HB
club in Manhattan, Ks.
But when he alludes to the 'current brew meister' @ LABCO, Jethro has to
interject. The current 'brewers' @ LABCO are Heidi Helwig, former bartender
and bar manager, and Lou Kaylor, former bartender and all around good fella.
The brewer in question, Bret Kimbrough, @ this point seems to be on the East
Coast, apparently having left in less than fortuitous circumstances, some
time ago.
Further, the only individual I know in the state of Kansas that has ever
deserved the honor, Brew Master, is Steve Bradt, Free State Brewing in
Lawrence, and even he would probably reject the title.
But "Hail To Brewers!', especially the members of the Little Apple Brew
Crew, Manhattan's homebrew club.
Cheers!
Jethro (I Love Sheep!! Especially Lamb With Mint Sauce!!) Gump
Rob (DUFF Cans Rule!) Moline
Brewer
Court Avenue Brewing Company
Des Moines, Iowa
brewer@ames.net
Ames, Iowa.
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2764, 07/10/98
*************************************
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