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HOMEBREW Digest #2716
HOMEBREW Digest #2716 Mon 18 May 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
DMS appropriateness (Jeff Renner)
re:Big 10/20, chilling (Charley Burns)
Re: AHA NHC 2nd-round judges (Amahl Turczyn)
Yeast Pitching rates ("Don Van Valkenburg")
More about Yeast ("Don Van Valkenburg")
RE: stainless steel cleaner (John Wilkinson)
Kegging/Natural Carbonation (scotty)
BW in kegs, all-grain monsters ("Ray Estrella")
Jim Liddil - AHA Christmas Beer ("Raymond C. Steinhart")
Re: AHA ANNOUNCES "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION (Steve Moore)
Atlanta (Wyorich)
Chest freezers (fridge)
Reasonably priced Gott Source ("Tim Fields")
Primary Control/Flavor Kits/Sulfur (AJ)
Metal Corrosion ("Dana H. Edgell")
Hoppy Deer (MADwand)
Making crystal malt - another question ("Hans E. Hansen")
Home Malting ("J.Kish")
The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
DMS (Fred Johnson)
Channeling (Jack Schmidling)
Calling all beer collectors, DUFF beer for sale. (Jon Bovard)
Sale on "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION paraphenalia (AlannnnT)
Microbiology lab book question (Harlan Bauer)
BURP's Spirit of Free Beer competition is June 6-7 and entry information
is available by contacting Jay Adams (adams@burp.org).
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 11:14:28 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: DMS appropriateness
"Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton@iastate.edu> wrote:
>I also have read
>with some very close interest the discussion about DMS and the large amount
>in canned worts (as described by GDP). Then in the swiss cheese that is my
>brain, I remembered that CAPilsener (as described by Jeff Renner) has DMS
>as an allowable taste component. See where this is going?
>
>Would it be appropriate to use by DMS soaked canned wort as a basis for a
>CAP? Are there other beer styles that allow DMS as a flavor component? If
>so, what are they?
I can't anwer the first question for sure, not remembering the previous
post referred to (but that never stops HBDers, does it?). But DMS in
canned wort would likely boil off just as in any other wort.
DMS is acceptable, arguably even appropriate, in CAP. I usually get some,
and I like its contribution. I don't find it cooked-corn like, but more
part of what I think of as "beery." It has been historically found at
higher levels in midwest beers, apparently because of brewhouse geometry
and practices such as long holding of hot cast-out wort. There is more to
a CAP than DMS, of course, and I think unabashed corn (not the "corny"
aroma of DMS) is part of it. I have stopped using flaked corn (maize) in
favor of coarse degermed yellow cornmeal (in lieu of grits) in a separate
cereal mash. This produces more corn flavor, I think, and some maltiness.
Anyway, it's the traditional manner of using corn, although flakes have
been used hitorically as well.
DMS is also typical of many Continental lagers. I don't know what the AHA
style guidelines say, but it is part of the "beery" sulfur nose of a German
pils, for example. I've just been reading Charles Bamforth's "Beer: Tap
into the Art and Science of Brewing" (as recommended by Andy Walsh).
Bamforth writes (p.63), "Brewers differ in their preference for having DMS
in their lagers. Some like it, generally in the range of 40 to 100 ppb,
and there are certainly a good many lagers across mainland Europe that have
a character substantially determined by DMS at these levels. Other Brewers
are adament that DMS is an "off" character that must be maintained at
levels below its flavor threshold of around 30 ppb."
BTW, when I've finished Bamforth I'll post some thoughts. A preliminary
thought or two - it's a pretty good addition to the literature. It fills
a previously unoccupied niche - a book written on the "popular" level with
technical stuff presented in a way that shouldn't scare off most folks
(well, maybe Matt Arnold, B.A., M.Div.). Here's a tantalizer (since Eric
Fouch just commented that it was about time for for the botulism thread to
rise up again). From p. 72: "It has been proven that those pathogenic
bacteria that don't require oxygen are unable to populate beer."
Unfortunately, he says nothing on this subject about starters. ;-)
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 98 08:51 PDT
From: cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us (Charley Burns)
Subject: re:Big 10/20, chilling
Jeremy York asks about air in the headspace of secondary in HBD#2714.
If you rack to secondary now (off the trub) and the beer continues to
ferment, you don't need to be concerned about the oxygen in the headspace.
C02 will continue to be generated and since it's heavier than "air", it will
create a protective blanket within minutes. A little oxygenation at this
time is ok in a big barleywine (og 1.115!!! - wow) anyway as it may tend to
create those sherrylike tastes after a few months of aging. I might even
take some of mine as an experiment and slosh it up real good in a bottling
bucket just prior to bottling to see what changes it makes in my Big12.
chilling - i bounce my chiller all over the place while chilling. If I let
the chiller just lie in the wort, it takes 30-45 minutes to chill 5.5
gallons to pitching temp. When I bounce it around and stir it around, I can
chill it in 8-12 minutes (faster, better, less waste water). BUT - then I
use the chiller to swirl the wort as fast as I can without sloshing it over
the side, pull the chiller out and cover the kettle immediately. Let it sit
15-20 minutes while I do clean up, then rack the wort (syphon) to fermenter.
The swirl does a pseudo whirlpool job on trub (hot and some cold break) and
hop spooge that all ends up in a pile in the middle of the kettle. I then
rack from the edge. Produces very clear wort with very little cold break in
the fermenter every time.
Charley (chilling, bouncing, sloshing and swirling) in N.Cal
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 10:16:08 -0600
From: Amahl Turczyn <amahl@aob.org>
Subject: Re: AHA NHC 2nd-round judges
Dear NHC 2nd Round Judges,
Just a friendly reminder that if you are making plans to judge at the
2nd round of the nationals in Portland, and are staying at the
Doubletree Inn, please note that they are booked! We do have a block of
rooms reserved for our conference, but if you do not mention
specifically that you are with the homebrewers conference, they will
tell you the hotel is full.
Thanks, and see you there!
Amahl Turczyn
AHA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 09:17:57 -0700
From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <donvanv@email.msn.com>
Subject: Yeast Pitching rates
At the a recent brewclub meeting I gave out some yeast and a little advice
about yeast. There was a very brief discussion that followed, but it didn't
go very far because I had no facts to back up my big mouth. I claimed that
Wyeast packets, by themselves, are insufficient yeast. Another brewer said
he has no problem with just a single pack.
The Big Question-----
So, how much yeast is necessary for a reasonably good pitching rate without
over or under pitching?
I looked up a few sources on yeast and here is what I found.
George Fix had a chapter on yeast propagation in his book and several pages
on yeast pitching that were frankly over my head ---but to the bottom line.
He said 1-2 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato of wort. And,
he went on to say half that much for ales. Well if you are like me and you
are not into counting cells with your microscopes how much is 1-2 million
cells? George Fix finally gets down to the nitty gritty a few pages later
and says that for a 12 P wort (that is apx. 1.048 for us using the other
scale) we should use 400 ml of yeast solids per Hectoliter (1 hectoliter =
26.42 gal.). He also cites a rule of 1/2 Lt. per hectoliter. Now we're
getting close to something that will help. We as homebrewers usually do a 5
gallon batch ( apx. 1/5 a hectoliter), thus we should use about 80 ml per
five gallons of wort at 1.048 SG. Remember he said half as much for ales.
Lallemand labs, (makers of Nottingham, London, Windsor etc.) suggest a
pitching rate of 50 grams per hectoliter which would be 10 g of dry yeast
per 5 gal of beer.
So what are the results of under or over pitching? Zymurgy had this
information in their Vol. 18 No. 5 issue:
A 1.064 OG wort (16 Plato) from one production brew was split between four
10 barrel fermenters and pitched with 12.8, 30.3, and 74.9 X 106 variable
cells per milliliter, respectively. This is the equivalent of one-half to
four times the normal amounts used in brewing high gravity lager beers.
Fermentation rates were about two hours faster per additional million cells
per milliliter pitched. --here comes the interesting part--Increasing the
pitching rates resulted in lower IBU levels and lower free amino nitrogen
(FAN) utilization. Higher ester levels resulted from lower pitching rates,
including an increase in fusel alcohol. Panels found higher hop aroma and
hop intensities in low pitch rates.
Areation
It seems that pitching rates and even aeration of wort may be style
specific. An excellent article in Brewing Techniques Vol. 5 No. 2., Pg. 50
(Tracy Aquilla) made a good case for pitching rates being style specific. He
says that byproducts of yeast growth are undesirable; it is even preferable
NOT to aerate the cold wort! "Avoiding aeration may be particularly
desirable when fermenting high-gravity worts that will naturally result in
the formation of more esters." ---By pitching a large starter culture,
keeping the initial fermentation temperature relatively low, and minimizing
(or eliminating) aeration, a brewer can avoid extensive yeast growth during
fermentation and the excretion of secondary compounds that naturally
accompany reproductive activity. --Tracy Aquilla
My Conclusions: (at the risk of over generalization)
1.) The pitching rates cited by George Fix are (I believe) for commercial
production but would serve the homebrewer well. Commercial brewhouses want
fast fermentation for several reasons; one is simple economics, faster
production. Another reason is that bacteria turns over (multiplies
exponentially) about once every 20 minutes where as yeast takes about 2
hours. Thus greater pitching rates = less chance of infection.
2.) Pitching (and areation) rates is style and strain specific. If you
want a very estery Belgian or Wheat with lots of banana or clove you would
want to under pitch.
3.) Use twice as much for lagers as you do for ales and use proportionally
more yeast for higher gravity beers.
I had informal phone conversations with both White Labs and Wyeast. Rather
than paraphrase what I was told on the phone I am copying this text in an
email to them and invite both to respond. I also want to say in closing
that I find both Wyeast and White Labs products of superior quantity and I
have financial no interest in either company. It is just the QUANTITY of
yeast I am questing.
Disclaimer--- any advice I may give is strictly my own. Use it at your own
risk!
Comments invited.
Don Van Valkenburg
donvanv@msn.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 09:22:16 -0700
From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <donvanv@email.msn.com>
Subject: More about Yeast
For more information about yeast, you can go on line to:
Wyeast
http://www.wyeastlab.com/index.htm
White Labs
http://www.whitelab.com/
Lallemand
http://www.Lallemand.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 98 12:55:49 CDT
From: jwilkins@wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson)
Subject: RE: stainless steel cleaner
Stacy Groene asked about stainless steel cleaners. I found them at the
grocery store in the cleaning materials section, near where scrubbers, etc.
are found. Revere makes one, as do others.
John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins@wss.dsccc com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 19:51:06 +0000
From: scotty@enaila.nidlink.com
Subject: Kegging/Natural Carbonation
Hello,
I have been kegging my beer for about 2 years now. I have force
carbonated all but 2 of the probably 20 batches I've kegged. The 2 I
attempted to carbonate naturally didn't come out with much
carbonation. I added 1/3 cup of corn sugar and conditioned at room
temp for 3 weeks. I added about 5 # of pressure to seat the gasket
in the keg. On the first try (about 8 months ago), I wasn't sure
everything had sealed. On my more recent try, I was positive
everything had sealed correctly. Am I doing something wrong??
Thanks in advance for you help,
Scott Rohlf
private email is ok.
scotty@nidlink.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 21:57:22 -0500
From: "Ray Estrella" <ray-estrella@email.msn.com>
Subject: BW in kegs, all-grain monsters
Hello to all,
Doug Moyer asked,
>For my BigBrew '98 (TM) (R) barleywine, I would like to let it age in
>bulk in a Corny. Is this a good way to age the BW? Is room temp okay?
>(I don't have much space in my serving fridge.)
>Also, if I age it in the corny, do I have to worry about bleeding
>pressure occasionally? Any other concerns?
Yes, yes, no, yes.
I age/condition my Barleywines, Strong Scotch Ales, and Imperial
Stouts in the keg for about 4 months then CPF into bottles and stick
them away for another few months. All at room temp. (64-68f)
Even if you are adding priming sugar to the keg, you should not need
to relieve pressure. But do make sure that you have a good seal in the
first place.
A friend and brewer of many gold medal winning BWs told me that
he was just reading something about them need true bottle conditioning
for proper flavor development, but I do not know where he saw it.
Are you out there Steve?
And to our wavering all-grainer, taking the step up to all grain brewing
does not make you a rude, argumentative, know-it-all. But consuming
too much of the end product in front of your keyboard just may do the trick.
Ray Estrella Cottage Grove MN
ray-estrella@msn.com
****** Never Relax, Constantly Worry....have a better Homebrew ******
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 22:37:23 -0500
From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr@popmail.mcs.net>
Subject: Jim Liddil - AHA Christmas Beer
Jim, Do you know where I can get a copy of Michael Lewis, PhD, 'All Beer
made by Homebrewers Sucks' I would like to add this to my Christmas list
as I have all the classic series but this one.
Thanks.
Ray Steinhart
- --
My All Electric RIM Brewing System
"http://www.mcs.net/~rnr"
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 01:11:59 -0500
From: Steve Moore <swm@pdq.net>
Subject: Re: AHA ANNOUNCES "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION
Some Guy <pbabcock@oeonline.com> didst write:
>George Marshall sprechens:
>> Jim, I think that you forgot to mention that all beers must be extract
>> based with boiled specialty grains and dry RedStar yeast. Also, all
>> competitors must sparge hot wort directly into their primaries.
>Um, did y'all forget to throw a tablespoon of gypsum into that?
Make it 3 tablespoons and don't spare the black patent.
Hugs and Kisses,
Steve
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 05:47:13 EDT
From: Wyorich <Wyorich@aol.com>
Subject: Atlanta
Going to Atlanta in June. Anyone know the "can't miss"
brewpubs\microbreweries? Also, is there a kick-ass homebrew store in town;
i.e. lots of gadgets and unusual ingredients? Last but not least, a
recommendation for a very good golf course would be appreciated. Email is
cool. Thanks. Richard in Cheyenne.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:05:02 -0400
From: fridge@Imbecile.kzoo.edu
Subject: Chest freezers
Hi folks,
Chuck Cubbler asked about the possibility of resetting his existing chest
freezer temperature controller, or replacing it so he could use it as a
refrigerator.
Most chest freezer temperature controllers can't be set high enough for
brewing use. Experiment with what you have to be sure. If you need to
replace the controller, I would recommend leaving the existing controller
in place, and add an external controller.
The external controller can easily be wired into a short extension cord,
and the freezer can then be plugged into it. The capillary tube or wire
that runs to the remote sensing bulb is small enough to close the door
against. The bulb shouldn't touch the cabinet sides - this is where the
cooling coils are. I use a small sheet metal bracket to hold the bulb an
inch or so from the side.The bracket just clips over the top edge of the
freezer, and the door closes against it.
There are many suitable temperature controllers available. One of the
most popular is the Johnson Controls A19 series mechanical controller.
These can be found for between $5.00 to $50.00, depending where you
look (check surplus outlets for the lowest prices).
My pick for best bang-for-the-buck is Ranco's ETC series digital
controller. It is intended to replace controllers such as the A19, and is
about the same size and shape. The ETC has an LCD digital display with
temperature, differential, and heat/cool mode all adjustable via buttons
on the display panel. I paid $40.00 for mine.
Whichever controller you choose should be set to use as wide a
differential as you can reasonably use. I like 5 degF or so. This
prevents short-cycling the compressor, which can drastically shorten its
life.
I have covered this topic in greater detail in previous postings to this
group. Search the archives or email me for more info.
Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo
fridge@Imbecile.kzoo.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:49:01 -0400
From: "Tim Fields" <tfields@his.com>
Subject: Reasonably priced Gott Source
Does anyone have a recent source for a 10 gal Rubbermaid/Gott cooler
(preferably online) that is less than $65? I searched the archives, and the
main recommendation (Wal-Mart) only has the 5 gal size (searched online and
called them). I live within an hour of the factory, but they want $65ish for
one.
- -------------------
Tim Fields
tfields@his.com
www.his.com/tfields
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 11:43:58 -0400
From: AJ <ajdel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Primary Control/Flavor Kits/Sulfur
Wim wrote about making a RIMS heating tube section the secondary of a
transformer. While this is conceptually a fine and very interesting idea
I'm not sure I'd advocate it. The idea of the tubing which has been
contorted to get it around the core springing a pin hole leak and
spraying the high voltage primary with conductive wort thus connecting
the rims gear to the mains comes to mind. I suppose if the rims gear
were solidly grounded this hazzard could be mimimized but I don't really
feel comfortable with the idea. Also, the secondary is almost shorted
in this application thus the primary will look like an extremely low
impedance to the mains and there is probability that the primary will be
destroyed. Fuses or breakers will probably protect and anyone willing to
try this is doubtless willing to sacrifice a transformer or two. I guess
the main point is that transformers are designed (though I haven't done
it in so long that I hardly remember the process) starting with the
load. This determines the required core area and the "volts/turn" which,
in turn, determine the requisite number of turns on primary and
secondary. I guess my concern is that as this ad hoc approach does not
follow normal design procedures there are lots of potential problems
and, as electricity is involved there is the chance of personal injury or
fire.
As for control of such a device by means of solid state swiches,
that works fine and is done all the time. Ahh, the memories. In my first
summer job (and I won't say when that was - hint: 4 layer devices for
applications like this were just becoming available and replacing the
dreaded saturable core reactor as a means of primary control) we did
exactly this. Six SCR's were used to proportionally controll the primary
of transformers whose secondaries consisted of a few (2 - 6) turns rated
for tens of thousands of amperes at low voltages. There is no problem
with the transformer here. It was the SCR's that tended to fail in those
days. Today you will find numerous devices (look in the Omega catalog)
that will do primary control this way. They usually accept 0 - 5 volts
or a 4-20 loop control signal (the standard output types from most PID
controllers) and are, thus well suited to this application.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Jeremy Bergsman writes about beer doctoring kits. He refers to the
British product but fails to mention its most attention getting
attribute: the cost! In their literature they even suggest that several
breweries in a local area pool resources to buy one of the kits. As I
recall it is nearly $2000 and contains enough "spikings" of each of a
couple of dozen kinds to do about 25 or so sessions. They also sell a
smaller kit (fewer capsules) for about $700. Both are, as far as I'm
concerned, out of range or homebrewers or even clubs.
I'm not troubled by the idea that these things are in powdered form.
There are doubtless ways to adsorb the flavor elements onto solids. For
example there is a product which is clearly nothing but diacetyl
adsorbed onto some sort of carrier. It is used by people who want butter
flavor but no fat. One sprinkles it over food and it is actually quite
amazing how buttery the result is (in flavor and aroma - not texture).
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bill Giffin comments on DMS in beers. I published a recipe for a Pils
here a couple of months ago and noted that it never fares well in
contests. I nevertheless keep putting it up. In the half dozen times
I've entered it I've gotten one, and olny one, comment to the effect that
the sulfur note was appropriate to the style. That comment came from a
professional brewer
but he has been the only judge I've encountered who knows that this
component is a requirement (not a falt) in a continental lager. Look at
Bill's numbers again.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:34:59 -0500
From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell@quantum-net.com>
Subject: Metal Corrosion
HBD,
If brass fittings are used with a stainless steel vessel, I understand that
corrosion will occur where the two different metals touch. Does anyone out
there have more details about the rate/severity of the reaction.
How fast will the corrosion occur? Will the brass corrode before the
stainless steel?
Do I have to disassemble the fittings after every use or can I leave them
touching and simply clean them every now and then? How often?
I don't want to damage my stainless steel kegs (brass fittings are more
replaceable
Thanks for any tips
Dana Edgell
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Dana Edgell edgell@quantum-net.com
Edge Ale Brewery http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale
San Diego home of the Water Treatment Workpage
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:43:27 GMT
From: MADwand@earthling.net (MADwand)
Subject: Hoppy Deer
On Sat, 16 May 1998 00:15:26 -0400, homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request
Address Only - No Articles) wrote:
::
::Anyway, after trying all the useless suggestions like
::hanging human hair, soap and sprays of bone meal, etc.I
::have found that the only way to permanently prevent
::deer attacks ( and they will ) on shrubs and hop vines is
::with bird netting.
are you out of bullets or what?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 17:23:50 -0700
From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh@teleport.com>
Subject: Making crystal malt - another question
The recent posts about making crystal malt mentioned soaking
the grain until there is a moisture content of 45%. How do
you tell the moisture content? Perhaps weighing, but don't
you need to know the initial moisture content (which I doubt
would be 0%)? Am I missing something easy/obvious here?
Hans E. Hansen
hansh@teleport.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:22:11 -0700
From: "J.Kish" <jjkish@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Home Malting
HBD'ers,
It seems that there is a lot of interest in Home
Malting of Barley, and other grains. It's not very
easy to locate sources of malting barley.
To go through all the trouble to do that with what
is called "feed barley" is a shame.
Surely someone must know where to locate a source of
six-row barleys, like "Robust, Morey, Excel, or AB-2601,
or some two-row, like Harrington, Klages,or Moravian.
Sell us some; We're buying!
Best Regards, Joe Kish
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:33:30 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer@ames.net>
Subject: The Jethro Gump Report
The Jethro Gump Report
Reinheitsgebot....Revised!
"Archival find may push Reinheitsgebot origins back 100 Years....
Historians have attributed the Reinheitsgebot-or German Purity Law-to
the Bavarian Duke Wilhelm IV, who decreed that beer ingredients should be
regulated in 1516.
But the mayor of Weissensee, a town 100 miles southwest of Berlin, has
uncovered a document in Gothic script in the city archives that predates
Wilhelm's order by almost 100 years.
The 1434 Weissensee document, like Wilhelm's, specifies that only water,
barley malt, hops and yeast be used to brew beer."
"Modern Brewery Age" May 11, 1998. (this info distributed as
an educational service only......MBA internet address...<www.breweryage.com>
From: "Frederick J. Wills" <Frederick_Wills@compuserve.com>
Subject: BW Yeast
> I would just like to throw out that with the use of Nottingham
>Ale yeast as was specified in the recipe it may well be unnecesary and
>undesired to use a second (more attenuative) yeast.
Agreed! But as far as undesireable goes, that's the way the original
brew was made....Did it make a huge difference? Probably not, as you
say. But it was a factor......
Nottingham by Lallemand is a great workhorse of a yeast....good
flocc'er, great attenuation, 'highly' ETOH tolerant........IMHO...a grand
yeast.....
From: "Dr. Pivo" <irv@wireworks.se>
Subject: re:Dr. Pivo and
>Sorry for the wasted band width
Please, Sir, waste my bandwidth as often as you like.....
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hoppy Deer, Outatown
>Like Doug Moyer I live in the midst of out-of-control deer
>who decimate all plants, shrubs and trees less than
>6 feet high. These deer have virtually destroyed the <SNIP>
Damn, Dave goes on vacation, and just 'cos he's annoyed @ me, he
spitefully sends his trained teams of "Attack Deer" to Iowa!! To wreak
their vengeance!!......
(from "Jethro Gump Central News Desk"
"Animal Right's Extremists Assault Local Establishment....Are
Tranquilized!!"
"At approximately 6 am, a daring team of animal activists, revolted at
the use of native animal names for a commercial establishment, assaulted
"The Raccoon River Brewing Company," of Des Moines.
One of the daring pair made a hasty escape, barely eluding authorities,
whilst his accomplice, only identified as "Bambi" was captured in a daring
counter-assault by law enforcement......"
True Story....2 deer crashed a plate glass window of the Raccoon River
BP, and proceeded to really do nothing more than freak out......
"Apart from the blood and fur everywhere, they really didn't do much
damage," said Chad Wilson, "One of them managed to escape by pushing on the
'Panic Bar" on the door that leads to the patio, and got away.....the other
was shot with a tranquillizer gun and carried out by 4 Animal Control
Officers."
Gee, Dave, next time you go on vacation, can't you send a few assistant
brewers instead? Or perhaps some sorority girls who want to write a paper on
the "Contrast Between Efficient Extraction @ 145 F and 158 F?"
Cheers!
Jethro Gump
"Isn't it funny how three little words can scare men? Like 'No More
Beer.""
Red Green
Rob Moline
Court Avenue Brewing Company,
Des Moines, Iowa.
brewer@ames.net
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:55:43 -0400
From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: DMS
A couple of days ago, George De Piro wrote regarding DMS:
A great way to learn about how much DMS is formed during the boil is
to can some starter wort. Boil the wort in a Mason jar, allow it
to
cool, then open it up and smell/taste it. To my nose, it goes
beyond
the somewhat pleasant cooked corn smell and enters the realm of
overcooked vegetables.
I don't understand the process. Do you mean to boil it in a CLOSED Mason
jar? I
can't imagine that actually being possible. (And how does one boil in a
Mason jar
anyway?) If you mean to boil it in an open Mason jar, how do you keep the
DMS in?
Do you mean to close up the Mason jar immediately at the end of the boil?
Among other sources of starter wort, I often save the last runnings of a
sparge
(before it gets too "thin"), boil this down, put it in Mason jars while it
is still hot to
minimize bugs growing (even though I don't sanitize the jars), and store
these in the
refridgerator to use as starter wort later. When I'm ready to use it, I
boil this stored
wort to insure sterility. But I suspect I have a good bit of DMS in the
stored wort
since it was closed up in the Mason jars while it was still hot. I am
have been
somewhat concerned about the quality of this wort as a starter, since this
ultimately
gets into my next brew. Shouldn't my reboiling and quick cooling of the
wort get rid
of the DMS?
- --
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 06:20:10 -0700
From: Jack Schmidling <arf@mc.net>
Subject: Channeling
I agree with Al K on the need to experiment before making flat
statements on things such as channeling. In fact, on that subject
I will offer my experience which just about makes a flat statement
in the opposite direction.
First of all, I have never made beer with anything other than an
Easymasher so my comments are valid only for it but anyway, I was
born with the fear of channeling burned into my brain and not only
carefully cut the mash as suggested in a book whose name I have
forgotten but also (god what a sentance this is becoming) stirred
the mash and allowed it to settle again, about half way through
the mash. I did this for a year or so and then did some measurements
to see if it was worth the trouble and concluded it was a waste of
time.
The bottom line is maximum conversion and this is easy to measure.
When you think you are done with the sparge, check the gravity
on the last cup to come out. Then stir, cut or do whatever you
want and draw another cup. If the gravity is the same, you got
all the sugar the first time. If it goes up dramatically, you
left some behind and need one of the procedures.
I have never been able to measure a difference and quit doing either
about 5 years ago.
js
- --
Visit our WEB pages:
Beer Stuff......... http://ays.net/jsp
Astronomy....... http://user.mc.net/arf
ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 09:54:20 +1000 (EST)
From: Jon Bovard <j.bovard@student.qut.edu.au>
Subject: Calling all beer collectors, DUFF beer for sale.
Greetings. you may remember back in 1995, someone tried to released DUFF
beer on the Aussie market and it was soon banned thereafter.
Now it is collectors item and fetching big bucks.
Ive got 9 cans unopened and the empty carton all in prime condition. If
anyones is interested you
can place your bid via EMail or phone me on Australia- 07 38786012.
Ive already got a couple of people interested.
Cheers
Jon Bovard
Brisbane Australia
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 22:13:54 EDT
From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT@aol.com>
Subject: Sale on "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION paraphenalia
More important info regarding the AHA "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION
To help prepare for this event, homebrewshops across the country will be
offering a special price on preboiled canned flavored Christmas wort kits made
by Wort Wizard Works. Buy the wort [and gypsum, Pat] and get two cases of
used Miller bottles for FREE!
And only if you act now you will receive, absolutely free, an autographed
Charli Papoosian heat resistant filter funnel, just right for one step
filtering and transfering of that hot wort into your cold carboy.
This sale is made possible by a generous grant from the Tell Us a Storey
Publications and Amil Turnkey, who plan to publish a book about the event.
Remember, your recipe will be held in complete confidence, [on page 32 or 33].
Generous recompense will [not] be shared by all.
Just the facts, ma'm
Alan Talman
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 20:38:43 -0500
From: blacksab@midwest.net (Harlan Bauer)
Subject: Microbiology lab book question
Does anyone own a copy of MICROBIOLOGICAL METHODS? This is the textbook used
at Siebel for their *Brewing Microbiology and Microscopy* course. I'm
considering buying it, but it ain't cheap, and I'd like to know a little
more about it's contents before I plop down $125.
Thanks, and private email would be fine,
Harlan.
Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can
Carbondale, IL To justify God's ways to man.
<blacksab@midwest.net> --A.E. Houseman
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2716, 05/18/98
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