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HOMEBREW Digest #2659
HOMEBREW Digest #2659 Thu 12 March 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
PID problem summary / Quick wort chilling via pump ("Keith Royster")
Re: translation help? (Lou Heavner)
RE:Weyermann Malt ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
Re: chloramine heresies ("Bryan L. Gros")
Calculating color ("David Russell")
Stainless Steel Contamination ? (Evan Kraus)
crisper/cleaner filtered taste? (Ian Smith)
Water treatment. ("Sandlin, Jonathan Mark - BUS")
mellowing meads ("Bryan L. Gros")
Foam Insulation (Brian Pickerill)
Re:Cleaning Sanke Kegs (Art Beall)
Mash tun insulation and Nottingham yeast (Steven Gibbs)
Spirit of Free Beer (Juniusiii)
cpvc cooler manifold and propane burner wind shield (Stephen Yavorski)
Bottled Water Analysis (John Palmer)
garden hose & brewing water (RMerid7682)
Too much molasses (Mark Garthwaite)
Corny poppets (Herbert Bresler)
mead myth (gnelson)
Re: Chloramine Heresies ("Dana H. Edgell")
Hop organisms ("Mort O'Sullivan")
Sanke Cleaning (Evan Kraus)
Building a basement "cool" box. (Lau William WT)
A rolling stone gathers no wort (Steve)
Deficiencies in malt extract ("Dave Draper")
Weighty subject ("David R. Burley")
Fwd: Sparge Control (mwmccaw)
FW: "Mail Order beer" Dgofus 3/11/98 (Vachom)
More praise for Victory ! ("Jonathan G. Ingram")
Sanitizing PET bottles ("Hans E. Hansen")
Chloramine heresies ("Dana H. Edgell")
Iodine/Iodophor?? (Headduck)
simple aeration ("Taber, Bruce")
Be sure to enter the 7th NYC Spring Regional Competition
3/22/98. Surf to http://www.wp.com/hosi/companno.html for more
information...
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:24:24 +0500
From: "Keith Royster" <keith@ays.net>
Subject: PID problem summary / Quick wort chilling via pump
>>PID problem summary<<
Thanks to all who responded to my recent questions regarding the
problems with my Omega PID giving me temperature reading about 15dF
too high. I now believe the problem may actually be with my
thermocouple, and not the PID. I also received a lot of responses
from people that regularly use Omega products in their work
environment who echoed my sentiment that they are a good company to
deal with and that their products are of generally good quality.
A lot of people suggested that I may have tried to lengthen my t/c
wire with some other non-t/c wire, which could cause an incorrect
temp reading. Others suggested that I may have my PID set to use the
wrong type of t/c (type-T, type-J, etc.). Both great suggestions,
but they were not the cause of my problems. One responder suggested
that any source of electronic interference might create such an
effect, but I seriously doubt that was the source of my problem.
I think I may have discovered the real problem this weekend during a
brew session. I have another temp probe that I bought from Superior
Products for about $35 that also uses a t/c connected to a digital
temp display unit. I noticed that it was working well at the
beginning of the brew session when I was using it to monitor the temp
of my sparge water, but after the probe became completely submersed
it began to conistantly read about 20dF too high. Later that day I
place the probe, still connected to the display, in my oven on low
heat to dry it out and was able to watch the temp reading slowly
return to normal. Therefore I think my other t/c connected to my PID
has also gotten moisture inside that is causing the same problem. (My
theory is that the moisture is shorting a connection which gives an
incorrect voltage reading, thus the incorrect temp reading.) On
my PID t/c, there is a black rubber stopper thingy at the junction
of the t/c probe and its wiring, but some of the rubber has come off
exposing what appears to be a woody (cork?) material underneath. I
am betting that moisture has entered here and is causing the same
problem.
My choices now are (1) reseal the rubber stopper and continue to use
the same probe while adjusting for the temp difference; (2) try to
drive out the moisture using the oven again, then reseal and use; or
(3) just buy a new t/c. I may opt for #3 since they aren't that
expensive ($20) and this would eleminate most of the temp errors.
=================================================
>>Quick wort chilling via pump<<
Steven Jones <stjones1@worldnet.att.net> mentions his method of wort
aeration where he loosens a connection in his tubing while he pumps
the wort from his kettle to his carboy allowing air to get sucked in
(Please, let's not revive the Venturi VS Bornoulli thread =).
This reminded me of a new wort chilling method I did this past
weekend. I have a love-hate relationship with my counterflow chiller
because I love it's effeciency over my immersion chiller, but the
immersion chiller is so much easier to sanitize since I just have to
drop it in the kettle during the last few minutes of the boil. I
also have had problems pumping my wort through my CF-chiller because
of the extra head created by the friction losses through the
chiller. So this past brew session I placed the immersion chiller in
the kettle and then used the pump to recirculate the wort from the
bottom back to the top of the kettle, being careful not to cause
HSA. This constant motion in the kettle improved the efficiency of
the immersion chiller to that of my CF-chiller, thus giving me the
best of both worlds. It also allowed me to run my aeration stone
and aquarium pump in the kettle (once cooled below HSA temps) before
pumping into my carboy.
My question is, does anyone see any potential problems with this
method? I know HSA is a potential problem, but I was careful to
eliminate all air within my pump and tubing, and to gently return
the wort to the top of the kettle. I did notice that my wort was
very cloudy in the carboy, which I imagine is from the break
material being churned up during the recirculation, but I don't see
how that should be a problem. Assuming I decide to continue using
this method, I might have a CF-chiller for sale in the near future
(50' 3/8"copper inside garden hose with Phil's Phittings) =)
Keith Royster <keith@ays.net> Mooresville/Charlotte, NC
1998 U.S.Open homebrew competition April 25th
http://www.ays.net/brewmasters/
Download your entry packet in Acrobat format today!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:02:22 -0600
From: lheavner@tcmail.frco.com (Lou Heavner)
Subject: Re: translation help?
Laura in Charlotte asked for some help in identifying a Dutch beer. A
dutch colleague of mine offers the following translation. I hope it
was a good beer and that this is not too late. I'm not sure it tells
you much more than you already knew, but here it is...
Cheers,
Lou
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My husband brought me a Dutch beer from the Netherlands that has me
stumped.
It doesn't have a label but is wrapped in tissue paper printed as
follows:
Met de beste wesen van Brouwerij't IJ Amsterdam
*Best wishes of brewery 't IJ Amsterdam
extra speciaal eindejaarsbier
*extra special year end beer
voorzichtig doch vastberaden uitschenken
*pour careful but determined
inh.33 cl. cat.s alc.9 vol.%
*content.....
bier van hoge gisting
*beer of high fermentation (gist= yeast)
ad usum internum
*Latin : for internal use
minstens houdbaar tot eind '98
*use before end '98
met nagisting op fles
*with secondary fermentation in the bottle
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:05:20 -0500
From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman@terranova.net>
Subject: RE:Weyermann Malt
Eric Schoville asks about Weyermann Pilsner Malt in HDB2649:
Does anyone have experience with this malt? I am thinking
about picking up a bag because it is relatively inexpensive
compared to other German Pilsener Malts. Any feedback will
be greatly appreciated.
Eric (et al),
I have used this malt alot making German & American style lagers with
excellent results. According to The 1997 Brewers' Market Guide lot
analysis on that particular malt it has 4%-5% moisture content, an SRM
of 1-2L, and a DBFG of 80%-82%. I have found these stats to be pretty
accurate. I personally do not use it alot because I generally get my
malt mail order in small lots of 10-20 lbs. and the best price I have
found is around $1.10 per pound. But, when I make a "special" pilsner or
lager, it's well worth it. I can get Klages and other domestics for
about $.65 a pound so I buy those in bulk of 50# lots.
Go for it, you won't be disappointed.
Cheers,
Marc
- --
Captain Marc Battreall
Islamorada, Florida
Future site of "The BackCountry Brewhouse"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:25:47 -0800
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: chloramine heresies
AJ had some interesting data on getting rid of chlorine and
chloramine from water. You're not the only one who thought
that aeration and boiling would not work with chloramine.
The question is, why did we all think that? My water co.
just switched last month, and all the literature included
with my bill the last few months talked about how this
switch would improve the taste (I didn't taste chlorine
before) but you could no longer boil away the chlorine
for an aquarium as you could in the past. Same story
we had heard here in the digest.
So if this information is wrong and letting water sit
overnight or boiling it will drive off chloramine, then
I wasted $25 on a water filter for my sink.
- Bryan
Bryan Gros gros@bigfoot.com
Oakland, CA
Visit the new Draught Board homebrew website:
http://www.dnai.com/~thor/dboard/index.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:34:38 -0500
From: "David Russell" <drussel3@ford.com>
Subject: Calculating color
As a follow up to the color thread, I have a question. As I was creating a
recipe, I went through some preliminary calculations to determine the color of
the beer I was to produce. Is there anything similar to the "hops utilization
factor" that I must consider in my calculations?
- --
David Russell drussel3@ford.com Plymouth, MI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:06:41 -0500
From: Evan Kraus <ekraus@avana.net>
Subject: Stainless Steel Contamination ?
Here is my question for U Chemical Engineer's
Does Benzene contaminate 304 Stainless to be unusable for brewing
equipment ???
If not how do I clean out the residue ?
Caustic ?
Pasivation ?
- -------------------------------
Evan Kraus
EVAN KRAUS INC.
ekraus@avana.net
http://www.mindspring.com/~ekraus/
or
http://www.avana.net/~ekraus/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 10:46:44 -0700 (MST)
From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs@netcom.com>
Subject: crisper/cleaner filtered taste?
M Vachom wrote:
> Filtering is unquestionably the way to get "that commercial
>taste," as you say. The finer the filter, the closer you get to Zima.
> I'll admit upfront that I have a problem with filtering homebrew;
>the procedure seems antithetical to my reasons for brewing at least. I
>would encourage you to fiddle with malt profiles, mash schedules, water
>chemistry, yeast and hop varieties to achieve the tastes you like before
>you try filtering. Remember that your micro-brewer friend must make his
>beer saleable to a wide market, including those customers who experience a
>kind of existential terror when faced with something other than the
>crystal clear, characterless qualities of Bud. He wants that guy to give
>his brew a shot and knows he can't do it by handing him a murky 70
>IBU pint of IPA.
Thanks very much for your HBD response. I should have been a little more
specific on what I meant by "crisp/clean" taste. I was not talking about
budmilloors mega swill, to the contrary I was actually trying to emulate a
60+ IBU IPA brewed by a local Brewery here in Boulder, Colorado. The beer
has a great refreshing hop finish (it is heavily dry hopped) and just
tastes "crisp" and "clean". I followed the commercial brewers recipe
exactly (same water, grain, hop additions, water treatment etc.) and my
beer tastes less hoppy (bland) and does not have a crisp finish. The
commercial brewer told me to filter my beer - this would remove many of
the bigger molecules and hops that tend to "clog" your palette so that the
hop flavor doesn't get through to your taste buds. I have not confirmed
this yet and wondered if anyone out there had noticed a difference when
filtering. I plan on using a 2 micron filter so as not to produce a "zima"
type beer. I would welcome any advice on filter size, sanitation
techniques and especially on where I could purchase a suitable filter.
Cheers
Ian Smith
isrs@cmed.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 10:07:15 -0800
From: "Sandlin, Jonathan Mark - BUS" <SANJM304@bus.orst.edu>
Subject: Water treatment.
I am curious about correct water treatment for all grain
brewing. What is the correct filtering proccesses? I here varying
different processes here on the hbd, wich should I listen to? I would love
some help on this matter, private email is Okay.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:02:19 -0800
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros@bigfoot.com>
Subject: mellowing meads
ddunn@talismanospam.com (Dick Dunn) wrote:
>Lars <skyking@e193.ryd.student.liu.se> responded to my opinion that mead
>should not need long aging times to become palatable:
>>...I
>> can't say I'm a experienced mead maker, but when I did a mead it took
>> quite a time to carbonate. It took even longer to mellow tastes and I
>> would say it hasn't done that yet.
>
>...The need to mellow tastes is of more concern, but we'd have to dive into
>trying to analyze the tastes before it became clear whether it's a young
>mead taste _vs_ an off-taste.....
>
>The three main culprits for off-tastes that take a while to age out are
>an inappropriate yeast, excessive nutrient, and too-high fermentation
>temperatures. (And yes, I've committed all of these sins myself. I had a
>pomegranate melomel that took over two years to be reasonably drinkable.)
>
I think mead fermentation shares some characteristics of high-alcohol
beer fermentation. Could you elaborate a bit Dick on some of your points?
For example, what kinds of yeast are appropriate? Wyeast has three (I
think) mead yeasts available. How are they better than beer yeasts?
what do excessive amounts of nutrients do to the yeast? Cause too
much growth? too much fermentation byproducts?
High fermentation temps lead to higher alcohol production, right?
Same as in barleywines fermented too warm. I think these will somewhat
mellow out with extended aging. What is the mechanism? Are they
reduced somehow?
And regarding melomels, I think the distinction needs to be made
between "mellowing" and "blending". Mellowing refers to the degree
of the flavoring, while blending refers to the balance or mix of the
different flavors present.
- Bryan
Bryan Gros gros@bigfoot.com
Oakland, CA
Visit the new Draught Board homebrew website:
http://www.dnai.com/~thor/dboard/index.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:10:21 -0600
From: 00bkpickeril@bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Subject: Foam Insulation
Chris Ingermann asked: (Hi Chris!)
I bought a NEW type of expaning foam the other day that, IMHO, beats the
hell out of the other stuff. This is DAP-Tex or something like that, from
DAP (no affil.) and it's WATER BASED and easy to clean up. Also, it's
doesn't expand as much, so it's not likely to burst your lid (or whatever).
I am planning to use it on my new Gott.
DAP tex is about a dollar more, but unlike the other stuff, it's a breeze
to clean up and you can reuse it because the nozzle doesn't get hoplessly
clogged.
- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie IN
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:49:18 -0500
From: Art Beall <bealla@bellhow.com>
Subject: Re:Cleaning Sanke Kegs
Hello HBD Folks:
I have been using Sanke kegs for fermentation now
for over 1 1/2 years. No cutting or holes were
made. Just the top spear was removed. I use a
#10.5 stopper and either a blowoff tube or a 3
piece airlock. At first I used a lot of caustic
and elbow grease. But during the last year I've
developed a technique which involves PBW, Acid
wash, IODOPHOR, and 5 carboy brushes (standard
ones from HB shop) that are shaped differently. My
procedure of cleaning/sanitizing :
1) cold water/hi pressure rinse with a carboy wand
(avail in HB shops)
2) stopper keg. shake and roll all around. drain.
3) hot water/hi pressure rinse
4) repeat step 2
5) repeat 3 and 4
6) add PBW, 2 tablespoons, and hottest water, 1/2
gallon
7) stopper keg, shake and roll
8) use brushes 1-5 (see below). Immerse brush in
liguid in keg and swirl in appropriate place.
9) drain
10) repeat steps 3 and 4
11) add dariy acid rinse. 1 tablespoon and 1/2
gallon hot water.
12) repeat steps 7 thru 10
13) add iodophore and luke warm water for 5
gallons
14) repeat step 7
15) allow at least 1/ 2 hour standing on each
side. repeating step 7 a couple more times.
16) when ready to use, drain well and let dry; or
drain and rinse well w/ hottest water.
Now to the brushes. Each is shaped differently.
Terrible ASCII art follows :
1st brush gets bottom middle (unchanged from HB
shop):
//
//
oo----------------//
2nd brush gets bottom sides :
//
//
//
oo----------------//
3rd brush gets top corner and used vertically get
most of side wall :
//////////
//
|
oo-------------|
4th brush gets bottom side wall. Brush is totally
straightened, then bent slightly (25deg)
/////
oo--------------/////
5th brush gets bottom corners.
oo------------
|
| //
---////
I've had good success w/ this method, although it
is time consuming and slightly complicated. But w/
a 15 gallon batch though, it save time over
cleaning three carboys or buckets each brew.
Maybe someone out there in HBD land has a better
idea or method. Please speak up.
Good Brewing!
Art Beall
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:19:32 -0800
From: Steven Gibbs <gibbs@lightspeed.net>
Subject: Mash tun insulation and Nottingham yeast
There have been several posts lately regarding mash tun insulation.
While several of the responses would appear to have very good insulating
characteristics, because of flamability problems and the permanency with
which the insulation is affixed, they just don't appear as a flexible
enough approach for the homebrewer.
I have found a way to insulate my half-barrel SS mash tun that is
inexpensive, flexible, easily available, and quickly removable for heat
application or cleaning. I use a type of alum. coated plastic
bubble-wrap found in almost all home improvement or hardware stores. I
originally went in to buy a water heater jacket but right next to those
was this roll of open stock insulation. Buy the width that is slightly
wider than your mash tun is tall, and get enough in length so that it
wraps 1 1/2 times around the tun.
Next, purchase approx. 7-8 feet of tape backed velcro. Wrap the
insulation around your tun and cut out the appropriate openings for your
plumbing, thermal wells, RIMS, and whatever else you have on your tun,
and you have a mash tun that woll hold it's temp. to within 1 degree
over a 120 min. mash. The velcro is of course affixed to the end of the
insulation forming a type of [ pattern. The reason for the insulation
going all the way past the top is that if you buy large alum. pizza pan
it will fit perfectly over the top of the tun with the insulation
holding it fairly tightly in place. Also, the hand holds on the top of
the keg are covered with the insulation so the tun is sealed when in
use. Without the top I have found appreciable heat loss to occur.
Finally, the heat loss appears to be constant from an outside temp. from
40 to 95 degrees.
The other question that has come up is the use of Nottingham dry yeast,
whichI would never use for any of my ales, let alone even consider it
for a quasi-lager. I've used Nottingham, especally when I first sterted
brewing because I thought "wow, isn't this great my beer finished 5
points below expected in 2 days". Then I tasted it. Even when fermenting
it a 65-68 degrees, Nottingham makes beer, but IMHO not a very tasty
one. The body was gone, the ester profile was wrong and it had the taste
of many of those brew pub's beers that have been taken over by suits
that really don't care about quality, just the turn around times on
their house product. If you can't use slants or a starter from liquid
yeast, at least try some hydrated Whitbread or Windsor ale yeasts.
Further, I have found some great flavor profiles from using Kolsch yeast
to ferment quasi-lagers at 65 degrees.
Happy Brewing
Steve Gibbs
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 16:27:33 EST
From: Juniusiii <Juniusiii@aol.com>
Subject: Spirit of Free Beer
Ladies and Gentlemen, start your brew kettles! Brewers United for Real
Potables (BURP) will be holding the sixth annual Spirit of Free Beer homebrew
competition on June 6-7, 1998. Entries are due by June 1, 1998. Entry fees
are: $6.00 for the first entry; $5.00 for the second entry; and $4.00 for
each subsequent entry. The competition will take place at the Potomac River
Brewing Company in Chantilly, Virginia. All Beer styles from both the AHA and
BJCP style guidellines will be accepted, including mead and cider. Spirit of
Free Beer is a qualifying event for the Masters Championship of Amateur
Brewing (MCAB).
For further information, contact Jay Adams at adams@burp.org or at
(301)869-2621. BURP's web site at www.burp.org. Entry forms will be available
from BURP's web site at www.burp.org in the near future.
Cheers,
Jay Adams
Minister of Culture
Brewers United for Real Potables
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 16:59:46 -0500
From: syavorsk@slb.isd.csc.com (Stephen Yavorski)
Subject: cpvc cooler manifold and propane burner wind shield
Hello everyone,
I'm preparing for my first all grain batch and am in the process of building
a manifold for a 5 gal. gott cooler. This manifold will be an octagon with a
pipe across the center, similar to Ken Schwartz's rectangular copper manifold
pictured on his web site. My first questions: What are the advantages/
disadvantages of drilling the manifold vs. cutting it with a hacksaw? Total
area of opening vs opening diameter?
Next: I've seen references for single step infusion mashes with dough-in at 140
degrees farenheit. Why would this be done instead of just hitting the starch
conversion temperature range of 150-158 degrees?
Third: I have an outdoor propane burner which I plan to use. I have seen
mention of cutting the bottom off a metal trash can to use as a wind shield/
heat loss preventor around the burner and the kettle. Does this need to be
propped off the ground to allow air in for combustion? Should I cut holes in
the sides of the can? Should the can be flush with the sides of the kettle?
Anyone have experience with this?
These are the questions which I haven't been able to answer through the
archives. Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA.
Steve Yavorski
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:51:50 -0800
From: John Palmer <jjpalmer@gte.net>
Subject: Bottled Water Analysis
Hi Group,
FYI, I contacted the makers of Sparklett's bottled water here in
Pasadena. They also market bottled water under the names Alhambra and
Crystal out west here.
The typical mineral analysis of these bottled waters is:
Bicarbonate (HCO3) 5.8 ppm
Calcium 0.7 ppm
Magnesium 0.8 ppm
Sulfate (SO4) 3.4 ppm
Total Hardness 5.1 ppm
Alkalinity 4.0 ppm
pH = 6.8 - 7.2
For the sake of comparison, the mineral numbers from Pilsen are
HCO3 3 ppm
Calcium 10 ppm
Mg 3 ppm
Sulfate 4 ppm
Perhaps AJ or Kenny can take a stab at salt additions to make the two
equate. If you merely added CaCl2 to increase the calcium to 10 ppm
would that be enough, or would you have to double it to 20 ppm to
account for the bicarbonate (bottled) being nearly double of that for
Pilsen?
Grist for the mill,
John
jjpalmer@gte.net
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 17:49:06 EST
From: RMerid7682 <RMerid7682@aol.com>
Subject: garden hose & brewing water
Hi all
Kevin TenBrink asked about using a garden hose as water supply line for
outdoor brewing. I don't know what a regular garden hose will do to the taste
of your beer. There is an option if you don't want to take chances. Go to an
RV dealer and buy a hose. They sell garden hoses rated for drinking water.
It's been several years since I owned an RV so I can't guesstimate prices but
I remember them being more expensive than regular garden hoses.
Roger Meridith
Decatur IL
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 17:43:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Garthwaite <mgarth@primate.wisc.edu>
Subject: Too much molasses
With regard to adding too much molasses to a batch of beer, I had
the exact same thing happen to me once. I also accidently used a FULL cup
of it in a 5 gallon partial mash Oatmeal Stout. It didn't quite turn out
as I had hoped. (That's putting it mildly) I brewed it in September of
95 and every month I'd open a bottle and hope it would mellow out. I wish
I could describe what it tasted like but the best I can do is call it a
bit of a cidery molasses taste with oatmeal stout undertones. I think it
would have been quite good had I not dumped in the molasses. Anyway...I
moved out of that apartment in August of 96 and there was a slight
mellowing by that time but still not up to standards. I was going to just
dump it when a roommate that was not moving out said, "Just leave it here
and I'll give it more time." Okay, less for me to move.
Not more than a week ago I ran into that old roommate and he said
that there was still some of that beer sitting there. I had completely
forgotten about it. He said that it had improved quite a bit and another
friend said so as well!! I was intrigued. I'm sorry to say that I have
yet to go back to claim any of it but in the interest of brewing science,
I owe it to you to go back and investigate. I don't know whether you are
willing to let something sit for 2 and a half years but I'll let you know
whether it was worth it.
-Mark Garthwaite
Madison, WI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 19:20:04 -0500
From: Herbert Bresler <bresler.7@osu.edu>
Subject: Corny poppets
Originally, a problem posed by "Gregg Soh" <greggos@hotmail.com>
<snip>
>Corny poppets, I can't seem to get them out without them
>deforming because they "clip" to a rim beyond the threads of the
>ball-locks. Driving them out is like pushing againts a "barb". I end
>up using pliers...
===> I stumbled upon an easy, sure-fire way to remove the most stubborn
poppets from the ball-lock: Remove the ball-lock from the keg and then
attach its mate - the tap or the gas line. The spring loaded pin pushes on
the poppet perfectly (after all they were meant for each other) and the
poppet pops right out without risk of damaging either the poppet or the
ball-lock. The only additional force I've ever had to apply is to tap the
open end of the ball-lock on a towel or the palm of my hand.
Good luck and good brewing,
Herb
bresler.7@osu.edu
Columbus, Ohio
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 20:08:30 -0700
From: gnelson <gnelson@coffey.com>
Subject: mead myth
I am curious about the recent postings concernign mead, and the time it
takes for them to mature. looking back through my records, it has taken
up to 16 months for my meads to finish fermenting and to drop bright and
clear; most take around a year, some dry meads take only up to 6
months. All of them improve greatly with aging and maturation, up to 12
months in the bottle. I really wonder at recipes that call for a 1 to 3
month fermentation; are my fermentation and maturation times out of line
or unusual? I have had made several good to great batches of mead, but
with only 4 years experience making mead, I have to confess to being a
newby.
Jerry Nelson
gnelson@coffey.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 19:14:08 -0800
From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell@quantum-net.com>
Subject: Re: Chloramine Heresies
AJ mentions several herecies about how chloramines are actually easier to
remove than chlorine.
I don't know about the last 2 herecies but I always wondered about the
first one that boiling removes chloramine. A few years ago, Dave Miller in
BT stated this exact heresy in one of his Troubleshooter columns (sorry I
don't have the issue number at work). I beleive he said boiling converts
chloramines into free chlorine. He also discussed how lowering the pH can
convert chloramines into free chlorine at non boiling temperatures.
Dana Edgell
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Dana Edgell edgell@quantum-net.com
3101 Cowley Way #176 http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale
San Diego, CA 92117 (619) 276-7644
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:51:16 -0000
From: "Mort O'Sullivan" <tarwater@brew-master.com>
Subject: Hop organisms
In my post yesterday I wrote:
>The major growth inhibiting organisms derived from hops have been
>identified as trans-humulone and related (-)-humulone and colupulone
>compounds
That should have been "growth inhibiting compounds"
- ----------------
Cheers,
Mort O'Sullivan
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:00:17 -0500
From: Evan Kraus <ekraus@avana.net>
Subject: Sanke Cleaning
The Sanke dip tube retaining ring can be replaced by a SS Snap Ring.
All you have to have is a snap ring pliers (no more than $5).
The only other issue is finding the SS snap rings.
Several years ago I found a vendor that sold them.
I will check my notes and see if he can be found.
I clean mine by removing the dip tube then inverting the keg over a
piece of 1/2" copper
capped with a 1/4' hole in the top and horizontal slots cut in the sides
of the pipe just below
the cap.. The fluid moving device is an inexpensive submersible pump
(Flow Tech).
At first all the screws either rusted or turned black. I replaced them
all with SS
screws. I use either of the following to clean the kegs.
Caustic Soda, Chlorinated Caustic Soda or PBW. An occasional Phosphoric
Acid wash is also used.
The Chlorinated works best. Its tough to get if your not affiliated with
a Brewery or
Chemical distributor. Final sanitation is also accomplished with the
pump using either
an Iodine based sanitizer or Parasitic Acid. All the while the dip tube
is soaking first in the Caustic and then the sanitizer. Final assembly
and then the fill.
I also use some other tricks but it takes about 1/2 hour for each, with
my labor about 10 min.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:16:12 -0500
From: Lau William WT <william.lau@phwilm.zeneca.com>
Subject: Building a basement "cool" box.
I need some advice from lurking physicists, mech. engineers,
refrigeration experts, etc. I was thinking of building a "cool" box in
my basement. I have access to a unlimited supply of polystyrene sheets
for insulation. My theory is: If I build a super-insulated (say 4-6
inches of polystyrene for the walls and ceiling) and sealed box that sit
directly on my concrete basement floor, the interior temperature of the
box will reach equilibrium with the temperature of the concrete floor
(ranges between 55 - 60 oF). Essentially I will use the concrete floor
as the cooling unit. Does this sound realistic? Do I need to
recirculate the air inside the box? What are your thoughts?
E-mail OK.
Bill Lau
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:08:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Steve <JOHNSONS@uansv5.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Subject: A rolling stone gathers no wort
In HBD #2658, Dana Edgell asks about anyone having a summary regarding the
past thread on steinbeers. I don't have a summary, but can tell you that
Chuck Skypeck, the brewmaster at Boscos in Nashville, TN, goes all the way to
Colorado to get red granite to brew his Flaming Stone. He usually uses the
rocks in the bottom of his kettle as he is bringing the first runnings in.
These rocks have been in the wood fired pizza ovens for most of the evening
the day before he brews, are left in the oven, then the ovens are fired up
again first thing in the early AM when Chuck arrives. The rocks are then
transferred into the wort in a large stainless basket that Chuck has to lower
with a long climbing rope and harness through the opening of the kettle. No
small feat, as all of the rocks and stuff probably weigh over 100 pounds.
Most of the rocks are chunks that weigh 10 to 15 pounds each, and do crack
on occasion, but they hold together pretty well from one batch to the next.
I think he brews this beer about once a month, but don't quote me on that, and
replenishes his rock supply each fall when he goes out to GABF in Denver.
Around here, most of our rock is either sandstone or other sedimentary rock
that can't hold up to those kinds of temperatures.
Steve Johnson, President
Music City Brewers
Nashville, TN
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:07:45 -6
From: "Dave Draper" <ddraper@utdallas.edu>
Subject: Deficiencies in malt extract
Dear Friends,
In #2658, Mark Swenson asks whether it's true that malt extracts are
protein deficient. The big problem with many extracts is their low
contents of free amino nitrogen (FAN), due in many cases to their
being produced with substantial non-malt-derived sugars. For the
full story on this, one should read Martin Lodahl's summary of some
Canadian brewing research that was in Brewing Techniques a couple of
years ago. Fortunately this article is archived at the BT site, and
can be accessed at:
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue1.2/lodahl.html
Things might have changed some since this was written; anyone know
of any updates?
Hope this helps,
Dave in Dallas
- ---
*****************************************************************************
Dave Draper, Dept Geosciences, U. Texas at Dallas, Richardson TX 75083
ddraper@utdallas.edu (commercial email unwelcome) WWW: hbd.org/~ddraper
Beer page: http://hbd.org/~ddraper/beer.html
I am speaking from a materials perspective... ---John Palmer
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:41:45 -0500
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Weighty subject
Brewsters:
Been out of town and very busy, so my comments are a little behind.
AlK says:
>Dave writes:
>>Well, I have a Ph.D. in Physical Chemistry, if that's any help.
>It does help explain why so many people argue with you ;^)!
Actually, I hadn't noticed anyone arguing with me just people
expressing different opinions which is their right. It's up to the
readers to ask questions and decide who to believe.
AlK then describes his experience with a card playing
(I never had time for that!) Master's Candidate Physical Chemist
> One day we were discussing the
>important subject of the flexibility of phonograph records and
>she said "the vinyl records these days are so flexible, you couldn't
>hold one edge and support a 2 kilogram mass on the opposite edge."
>Now, how many of you (in the US) would have said "kilogram"
and how
>many of you in (the English speaking world!) would have (correctly)
>said "mass?!"
Actually she was incorrect as "mass" refers to an inertial
characteristic. She should have said "a force equivalent to
a kilogram mass in a gravity field equivalent to that at the
surface of the earth" or more succinctly "a kilogram
*weight*", since a kilogram mass in a zero gravity situation
would not bend the record unless it was being accelerated.I
have noticed several such transgression on this subject of
late here in the HBD, but decided to not comment until now.
Don't argue with me - check your physics books. Besides
if she had really been speaking English she would have
incorrectly said "0.06854 slugs" {8^)
- ---------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Dave_Burley@compuserve.com
Voice e-mail OK
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:59:02 -0600 (CST)
From: mwmccaw@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Fwd: Sparge Control
Dana Edgell asks about using a swamp cooler float valve for sparge
control. I don't know about the valves in swamp coolers, but there
are commonly available float valves for watering troughs, etc, that
work just fine.
A plumbing supply shop should have a supply of bronze float valves
in various sizes for about ten bucks. Another six or seven dollars
will get you a brass threaded rod and a copper float ball. I have
used this setup to control sparge water addition for several
batches now. I used the copper ball because I was concerned that
the standard polyethylene one might melt or soften at mash-out
temperature.
I attached some tubing to the outlet of the valve, and coil the
tubing on top of the grain bed. It wraps about 3/4 of the way
around the mash tun (converted keg), so the sparge water flows
inward in a spiral pattern.
This gives much less heat loss than with the former sparge sprinkler
device I was previously using, and the water level maintains itself
within about 3/8 of an inch without any valve fussing. I love it!
The only drawback is that you can't put a lid over the mash tun to
keep in the heat. I'm working on a coupling to allow me to use a
truly vertical float, so I can use a lid with a single small hole
in it. The ideal approach would probably be a low voltage
electrical contact (eg two wires) at the liquid level and a
low-voltage solenoid valve to control the water, but I havn't found
a cheap solenoid valve that can handle up to boiling water....
Mike McCaw
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:04:12 -0600
From: Vachom <MVachow@newman.k12.la.us>
Subject: FW: "Mail Order beer" Dgofus 3/11/98
>----------
>From: Vachom
>Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 8:36 AM
>To: 'post@hbd.org'
>Subject: "Mail Order beer" Dgofus 3/11/98
>
> The Winter 1997 Zymurgy magazine contains a critical piece on beer of
>the month clubs. The degree to which the subscriber can choose and how
>wide his choices are were central criteria in their evaluations. While
>reading the descriptions of some of the clubs, it seemed to me that if
>you live in proximity to a really good liquor/wine/beer store (i.e. if
>you lived in a largish city with a substantial affluent community) you
>could do just as well by shopping their occasionally. The person to
>whom I could imagine any of the clubs being appealing is the homebrewer
>or beer aficianado who lives in the sticks and simply doesn't have
>access to a wide variety of beers. The best clubs for any subscriber
>had selections from breweries that are just too small, can't afford or
>aren't interested in distributing nationally and therefore would never
>show up in the swanky liquor store no matter how good its beer
>selection. Can you ask for particular beers? That is, can you send
>them a list each month of the beers you want and have them go out and
>fetch them? Negative. They send you a list and you choose, although I
>suspect some of the clubs might take suggestions for future lists.
>Check out the Zymurgy article.
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:58:12 -0500
From: "Jonathan G. Ingram" <jgi105@psu.edu>
Subject: More praise for Victory !
I am home for break, and last night I finally made it out to the Victory
brewery, for all those who can drive there I strongly recommend it. One of
the coolest pub/restaurants I have ever been to, great atmosphere, great
music, friendly staff, and great prices also. Tuesday nights turned out to
be Pint Night, lucky me. So for 3.00 you got a pint of Dopplebock and you
got to keep the pint glass (which is really cool looking BTW) and after
that refills were only 2.00. Definetly a great deal. As for the Dopplebock
itself. This is a beer that will sneak up on you and knock you on your ass.
I think it was about 8% ABV. They did a great job of making sure the
alcohol content didn't overwhelm the taste of the beer. You can also get
their 6packs and cases at the brewery. 6packs are around 7.00 and cases
were around 24.00. For those who don't know Victory is not just a brewpub,
it is a working micro-brewery with a restaurant attached.
Slainte! -Jon
Jonathan Ingram - jgi105@psu.edu - http://www.personal.psu.edu/jgi105
We Are Penn State!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:41:46 -0500
From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh@teleport.com>
Subject: Sanitizing PET bottles
I'm so excited! This is my first attempt at a HBD post.
After drinking a brew, I used to squirt a weak bleach solution into
the (glass) bottle and seal it with foil to give me a head start on
bottle washing for the next batch. Now the question: Is this a good
idea for PET bottles? I am concerned with the bleach being absorbed
into the plastic. What about iodophor? Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Hans E. Hansen
hansh@teleport.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:43:47 -0800
From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell@quantum-net.com>
Subject: Chloramine heresies
HBD,
I found the reference from Dave Miller supporting the chloramine heresies.
It is not BT but Zymurgy Vol. 12, No. 2, p. 32. Summer 1989. Almost a
decade ago!
Dana Edgell
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Dana Edgell edgell@quantum-net.com
3101 Cowley Way #176 http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale
San Diego, CA 92117 (619) 276-7644
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:19:38 EST
From: Headduck <Headduck@aol.com>
Subject: Iodine/Iodophor??
Collective,
I have purchased a farm product called "Gentle Iodine" hoping to save a few
bucks on sanitizer. I am not sure if I should be using this or not. The MSDS
sheet lists the principle hazardous component as iodine at a concentration of
1%. There is no indication of what the solvent is. There is no mention of
Lanolin. The reason I am not sure about using it is that it has a very strong
odor. Much like rubbing alcohol. If it had methyl alcohol in it wouldn't
this be listed on the MSDS sheet? Is the odor just very strong ethyl alcohol?
I would sure like to use this product, but obviously do not want to risk
spoiling beer. What do you say, wise, experienced ones? Should I use it as a
sanitizer or should I just save it for future pig and sheep castrations??
Thanks In Advance,
Joe Yoder
Treasurer
Lawrence Brewer's Guild
check out our website: http://www.cjnetworks.com/%7Ekpb3
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:41:51 -0500
From: "Taber, Bruce" <Bruce.Taber@nrc.ca>
Subject: simple aeration
Hi all,
Lots of talk lately about wort aeration and sanitizing airstones.
I use the holes-in-the-hose method and it works great. I have
simply drilled small (5/64) holes right through my siphon hose. You can
watch the air being drawn in in tiny streams of bubbles that mix well with
the wort. I get a great head on the wort during the transfer. This is
simple, inexpensive, and easy to sanitize.
I know that this is not new and has been mentioned before, but it
works so well that I can't believe the amount of work that some people go to
to achieve aeration.
Keeping it simple but tasty in Almonte, Ontario, Canada,
Bruce Taber
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2659, 03/12/98
*************************************
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