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HOMEBREW Digest #2602
HOMEBREW Digest #2602 Tue 06 January 1998
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
New Product for SIPHON STARTING (Steve Altimari)
Removal of JS from the Digest (mthouse)
Hit the Road, Jack (ArchStanton)
Take Jack Off? (AlannnnT)
220 in US homes-Brad McMahon (AlannnnT)
Re: Thermometer in cooler side (Jim Wallace)
Kilkenny Anyone? ("Gregg Soh")
Second all-grain brew and newbie questions (John Hessling)
homebrew cooking - Tuscan chicken (smurman)
RE:Food Grade containers ("John Lifer, jr")
Nope ("David R. Burley")
Big RIMS (Randy Lee)
Censorship (Homebrew Digest)
Re: Scotmalt (Jeff Renner)
Zapap improvements (Jeff Renner)
1998 Boston Homebrew Competition (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580)
Re: MIXMASHER vs RIMS (rust1d)
alcohol limitation programs (kathy)
Boiling Over!! ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
Converting 10 Gallon Gott to a RIMS ("Lee, Ken")
RE: Mixmasher (LaBorde, Ronald)
Mixmasher (LaBorde, Ronald)
Give Schmidling a free HBD membership! (Samuel Mize)
Allergic Reaction to Beer (William D Gladden )
MixMasher (KennyEddy)
Bottle Labels (KennyEddy)
RE: GET RID OF HIM (LaBorde, Ronald)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 13:26:33 -0800
From: Steve Altimari <vllybrew@inreach.com>
Subject: New Product for SIPHON STARTING
Fellow Siphon Starters,
I have seen many threads recently about various methods for siphon
starting for racking and transfer purposes. I recently ran across a
real nice product I would reccommend to any brewer.
I am the head/only brewer at a brewpub but still manage to get some home
brewing in on the side. I recently have the oppurtunity to try out a
new product on the market called interestingly enough "CARBOYTAP".
This is not a commercial promotion nor am I in any way financially
associated with Fermentap the manufacturer. I just liked the product.
The product is built around using a standard racking cane that most
homebrewers have. You supply the racking cane.
Basically you take your standard 3/8" racking cane, remove the little
red
nipple and replace it with a small fitted disc. The disc forms the
piston of the transfer system. You then push the disc into a plastic
cylinder which has a fitted top which slides down to seal the cylinder.
The bottom of the cylinder is fitted with a removable plug which
functions like the red nipple on the traditional racking cane. (Keeps
sediment and yeast from entering the transfer, it actually does it more
effectively since it is slightly taller than the old red nipple).
The product works by starting with the racking arm/disc assembly at the
top of the cylinder, inserting the cylinder into the transfer fluid
then simply pushing down on the racking arm the length of the cylinder
to
force the fluid up the racking cane and into the next vessel. A simple
one
stroke movement. It is designed to fit even the smaller opening on the
standard 5 gal. glass carboy.
Sanitation is a breeze, just mix up a solution of your favorite
sanitizer (I use peracetic acid or Iodophor) pump the solution through
the cylinder/racking tube/transfer hose a few times and your ready to
go.
You could also use the system as a thief for sampling specific gravity
during various process points during brewing.
The phone number I have for Fermentap if your interested is
209-942-2750
The website for more info:
http://www.concentric.net/~fermntap/index.html
<><><><><><><><>
Happy Brewing
Steve Altimari
<><><><><><><><>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 17:49:58 -0500
From: mthouse <mthouse@concentric.net>
Subject: Removal of JS from the Digest
In response to the knee-jerk, or maybe just plain jerk, comments about
the removal of Mr. Schmidling, I need only remind Mr. Kraus of the first
ammendment. I for one do not find JS a problem. In fact, I find it
ammusing how easily he can "stir the pot".
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 16:53:06 -0600
From: ArchStanton <gotoit@prodigy.net>
Subject: Hit the Road, Jack
A recent post to the HBD invites Jack Schmidling to hit the road, or
more accurately, invokes, using a picket fence of exclamatory
punctuation, an unspecified authority to show Jack the door. All this
because Jack uses the HBD for "his own benefit", etc.
I have to say that I look forward to Jack's every post, not so much for
insight into brewing (although he provides that too), but for his sense
of humor. On the other hand, I can't remember reading anything either
informative or amusing from the poster who wants him ousted. I say Jack
should stay. As for the guy with the heavy finger on the exclamation
key, I say don't let the door hit him in the you-know-what.
Several posters also have their panties in a wad over some comments Jack
recently made about alcoholism, and at least one suggests a more
intensive discussion of that subject in the HBD, including "papers" from
"professionals". At least Jack's original post, right or wrong (I don't
know and don't care) had the merit of being about a brewing process,
i.e., removing alcohol from beer, which is more than you can say for
some of the diatribes which followed it. The name of this forum is the
Home Brew Digest. I use the page-down key as well as anyone (better, in
fact), but every post, including this one of mine, which isn't about
*brewing in the home* potentially moves a post which *is* about that
subject out of a given digest altogether, meaning those interested in
*brewing* have to wait for two or more digests to obtain the information
which could have been available in one. A cursory search of newsgroups
turns up several with either "alcohol" or "recovery" or "abuse" in the
titles. The discussion of alcoholism, both by Jack and his detractors,
should be taken to one of those.
To any who took offense at my "panties in a wad" phraseology, it's only
a reflection of my contempt for the mind set (just to hang a label on
it, let's call it "liberal") revealed in recent HBDs by the "alcoholics
can't help themselves" posters: the sort who take it upon themselves to
speak for some *other* poor bastard out there, the stupid one, the weak
or helpless one, who must be protected from "harmful" information such
as that supposedly put out by Jack. I would be surprised if any
alcoholic even saw, much less took to heart, what Jack said. Any
alcoholic who is reading the HBD is already on the wrong path, through
no fault of any contributor to the HBD. That an alcoholic might find
rationalization for his addiction in the HBD is about as surprising as
finding Budweiser in the local 7-11. But there are a lot of
contributors to this digest who are apparently rubbed the wrong way by
Jack's personality (or at least his HBD persona - I don't know him
personally) and they will go to any length to discredit or insult him.
The high and mighty tone they often take in so doing is pathetic. At
least Jack is funny.
Let us now brew, or forever hold our piece.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 20:50:07 EST
From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT@aol.com>
Subject: Take Jack Off?
Evan Kraus <ekraus@avana.net> Said:
Take him off this forum !!!!!! {about Jack Schmidling}
All he uses this is for his own benefit !!!!
It is a great sales tool for him !!!!
Well maybe I missed something. Jack is always trying to give his idea away for
free. He posts on his page and in magazines, pictures of the stuff he makes,
with instructions and a parts list, so brewers can to the hardware store and
make it themselves.
He has posted his techniques without shame on the HBD for years. Certainly he
would have sold many more EZ mashers if he wasn't always trying to tell
everyone how to make one at home.
I do not agree with some things he says, [for example: his views on
alcoholism] but he belongs on the HBD, IMHO, and is an asset to the HBD.
{except as noted above}.
Alan Talman
Recovering HBD lurker, occasional HBD poster. As a recovering lurker, I find
even one post can send me into a binge of posting. I just can't stop.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:25:36 EST
From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT@aol.com>
Subject: 220 in US homes-Brad McMahon
Brad McMahon, maybe the HBD's southern most brewer, asked :
When I was in the U.S. however, I did see these heater/tun/lauters
on sale there as 220/240V units. How do you American brewers run
these things?
Brad, these units [Bruheats, etc.] can be plugged into an American home if it
is equipped with a 220/240 outlet for the clothes dryer. The source [entry
cable] of electricty to the distribution box inside the house is 220/240 volts
AC in almost every house built since around 1920. [and most before then too.]
An electric dryer in the US runs on 220 as does the rangetop-stove. Or, with
very little work and a little homebrew, we can run a 220 line off a couple
breakers and viola! Cost about $20 US. To our American readers, please don't
mess with 220 if you are a newbie to electricity.
Alan Talman
East Northport, NY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 21:38:01 -0500
From: Jim Wallace <jwallace@crocker.com>
Subject: Re: Thermometer in cooler side
................From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)..............
I use an Igloo 10 gallon round cooler for my mash tun and would like to
mount a dial thermometer into the side.
Has anyone any advise on how to do this?
............................................................................
...
Don't do it.. A fixed thermometer in a mash tun is most like to give you
some very deceptive information.. I find it essential to have a long stemed
thermometer to move around while changing to a new temp rest. When I get
similar readings all over I know the mash temp is stable. A single data
point wont do it. be real careful here!!!
(NO PLUG ..the best mash thermometer I found is Hop Tech's long stemed
dial..JUST GOOD STUFF)
___________________________________________
JIM WALLACE ... jwallace@crocker.com
www.crocker.com/~jwallace
___________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:34:01 PST
From: "Gregg Soh" <greggos@hotmail.com>
Subject: Kilkenny Anyone?
I've been digging through the HBD archives of late for any posts of a
Kilkenny-style recipe. As it turns out, there have been many requests
but no one seems to have posted a recipe. Has anyone been able to nail
the recipe yet? Or is a close-guarded formula that's only emailed
privately? ( In which case, email me! :) )
Gregg
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 23:53:09 -0800
From: John Hessling <hessling@inlink.com>
Subject: Second all-grain brew and newbie questions
Hi all.
I have brewed few batches so far and welcome all comments to my posting.
I just finished brewing my second all-grain beer. It is fermenting
now. I wanted to describe my experience and take the opportunity to ask
a few questions.
I brewed one all-grain batch last year (my first batch of beer ever.)
My directions were very poor, the beer turned out okay (it was drinkable
although a bit weak). I also brewed a few extract batches last year,
some DME and some condensed liquid. The results were for the most part
acceptable to good.
I got some help from several of the experts on the internet trying to
trouble shoot my first all grain batch and with that help and the
reading and re-reading of Dave Miller's Home Brewing I was much more
prepared to brew my second all-grain batch almost a year later. (Dave,
if you are listening, great book! It is well written and just pack with
usefull information. I recomend it to any one interested in brewing.)
I am attempting to brew a bock style beer, high starting gravity, but am
using an ale yeast.(Don't have a good place to ferment at a low enough
temperature for lager yeast). I used 10 pounds of Breiss 2 row malt and
1 pound of Crystal malt. I used a mash schedule similar to the basic
mashing schedule in Dave's book in one of my 5 gallon brewing pots. It
was really full. After the mashout, I set up the Phil sparging system
that I have and started re-circulating the wort. The last time I used
this I never got the runnings to clear. But this time they did with
about 4 gallons of recirculated wort. It seemed to work great. I
drained off the mashing liquid being careful to prevent splashing and
ran another 3 to 3.5 gallons of sparging water through the system. I
got about 6 1/2 gallons of hot wort. I boiled for about 90 minutes and
I used 1 oz of Chinook at 45 minutes and 1/2 oz of Haullertau hops at 85
minutes (probably a little light, not enough AAUs). I boiled in two 5
gallon pots, and cooled them over night. (okay I have not purchsed a
wort cooler yet. It is next on my list.) I was carefull to keep the
pots covered after the boil to help prevent contamination and
oxidation. (Had that problem last time.) I racked off 4 3/4 gallons of
1.065 gravity wort (I only got 1.035 last year when I tried this grain
bill, not too good, huh?) and spashed it around real well to get some
oxygen into the wort. I had started my Wyeast 1338 European Ale yeast
with quart of starter wort made from pale ale DME after the smack pack
had swelled up. It took a bit longer than expected, the yeast was
almost 10 months old, but it finally got going. I pitched the stepped
up yeast starter with the wort at 70 degrees F and noted fermentation
activity in just under 6 hours.
(I've never had a yeast take off that quickly except for the dry yeast
and I did not like the resutls of that batch.) It has been a very good
experience. It took me about 6 hours on Saturday and maybe
2 hours on Sunday (a good bit of cleanup.)
If any one has comments pleased send them to me either privately or to
the collecitve. I find that the RE's I read on the net are very usefull
to me and am sure it will help other newbies, too.
Now to my questions:
I am real impressed with how the starter helped to get the fermentation
stared quickly. I am planning another brewing session very soon and
heard that I could use the yeast from my currently fermenting batch. I
was hoping to rack to a secondary fermenter after the fermentation has
slowed. Can I just dump my next batch right onto the yeast in the
primary or should I extract the yeast,
clean and sanitize my primary and pitch the yeast I extracted into the
primary after I rack my cooled wort into it? Do I use all of the yeast
in the bottom of the primary or part of it, don't want to
overpitch.
My next batch will probably be a lighter beer, probably around 1.040
starting gravity, but similar to my bock style beer other than that.
Does it matter that I use the same yeast that I used for the bock? Or
should I get some more yeast started for my next brew? (This seems like
a silly question, but I am unsure.)
I know that every one recommends that we should be brewing in stainless
steel pots. But I just could not afford the SS pot yet and have been
brewing in Aluminum pots. That is all I had. What are the problems
with Aluminum pots? I have not had any problems that I can iscern with
them, yet. I clean them real good after every batch, but I don't try to
remove the oxidation that has occurred from the exposure to wort and
water, though.
How quickly should I expect the bock beer to ferment out? I usually
transfer to a secondary after about 1 week. I was told not to leave it
in a plastic fermenter for more than 10 to 14 days. There can be
problems with autolysis and infection, so I rack to glass carboy after
the activity declines. Should it ferment out more quickly becuase of
the bigger pitching of yeast?
Okay, that is all for now.
Oh yeah, my personal email address is:
hessling@inlink.com
I don't have a cute byline, like some, so just keep on brewing, the
rewards are terrific.
John Hessling, St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 00:13:21 -0800
From: smurman@best.com
Subject: homebrew cooking - Tuscan chicken
This recipe and the next I'm planning to post deal with de-glazing.
When foods are cooked, lots of sugars, proteins, blood, etc. gets
encrusted on the bottom of the pan. As we all know, Mr. Maillard
informs us that many interesting flavors lurk in these carmelized
products. Deglazing is basically using liquid to remove the crusty
bits from the bottom of the pan and making a sauce out of it.
Typically this is done with a wine. I think this stems from the
method being popular in French and Italian cooking, both regions where
wine is more popular than beer. Of course I live in California, so
all bets are off when I enter a kitchen. In many respects, beer is a
better choice for deglazing. It's higher proportion of unfermentables
can really add some interesting character. The trick of course is to
know what dish goes well with what.
This is a Northern Italian (I think) chicken recipe. It's better to
fuck up with $5 worth of chicken before moving on to tenderloins or
tuna.
Get about 1/2 - 1 lb. of chicken "parts". I usually get the small
packages of legs and thighs for this recipe. If you've a whole bird
lying around, then just have at it with a cleaver (who said cooking is
work?).
Add some olive oil to a frying pan, add a pinch of salt and pepper,
and brown the chicken on all sides over medium-high heat. Should take
about 5 minutes. Place some sage leaves on the bottom of a baking
dish. Remove the chicken to the baking dish, placing them meat side
down.
Add some sliced shallots to the pan, and cook these until they become
slightly translucent (i.e. until they look done).
Add about 4 oz. of beer, and scrape the pan to loosen the bits of
crust on the bottom. Cook it down for a few minutes. I used an
overcarbonated steam beer, and it worked pretty well. When you add
the beer to the pan, you should get a face-full of a strong aroma.
Don't worry - all those compounds that just went up your nose will not
be going into the food, but it will give you an idea how the beer will
contribute to the flavor.
Add the beer sauce and shallots to the chicken in the baking dish.
Bake covered at 425F for about 40 minutes, basting frequently. With
about 10 minutes to go, add some sliced artichoke hearts to the baking
dish. I just use the 60-cent ones packed in oil in a jar, but you can
always cook up a bunch of artichokes and peal them if you like to make
your life complicated.
Serve with a little of the sauce. Just good, healthy, simple food.
Enjoy,
SM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 05:58:25 -0600
From: "John Lifer, jr" <jliferjr@misnet.com>
Subject: RE:Food Grade containers
Curt Sutliff inquired as to how to tell if a container is 'food grade'.
The best way is to look at the bottom of the container.
It should have one or more of the following: "NSF-2", for National
Sanitation Foundation standard 2, "FDA approved materials"
for just what it says, contains only FDA
approved materials. Barring one of these two, you may or may
not have a food safe container. Light or 'natural colored' containers
are in most cases ok to use. I would not use black or dark colored
containers. They may contain heavy metals from colorants or other
contaminants if the material was reprocessed or recycled.-Two
different things. Food grade containers do not have reprocessed
or recycled materials touching food surfaces. Any container you
get from a restaurant, i.e. pickle containers, should be just fine.
Most any restaurant tosses a number of these containers in the trash.
A lot of food comes prepared to the restaurants. Go ask for some
- at a slow time - You might be surprised.
John Lifer
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:17:52 -0500
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Nope
Brewsters:
Dave Hopf says Schmidling should not be allowed to post. =
I disagree strongly with that. Jack's posts are a sometimes
a little off the wall and explore the edges of the envelope, but
so are mine and so are others here. Brewing is not a
one-dimensional activity, so areas need to be explored with a
different light from time to time to keep us from being drawn down
the path of "this is always right and this is always wrong" based =
on limited observations and understanding. As long as his
comments are well intentioned, right or wrong, I wouldn't dream
of any kind of censorship and, in fact, abhor the thought. That
doesn't mean that we shouldn't comment on them and agree =
or disagree with them or ignore them if we so choose,
since we are intelligent free-thinking adults.
- -----------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Dave_Burley@compuserve.com =
Voice e-mail OK =
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 07:59:03 -0600
From: Randy Lee <rjlee@imation.com>
Subject: Big RIMS
While we are on the subject of RIMS, Anyone got
pointers/experience/designs for a RIMS system of about 5bbl size?
Randy Lee
Vinking Brewing Company
Dallas, WI.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:11:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Homebrew Digest <hbd@brew.oeonline.com>
Subject: Censorship
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Let me save a little bandwidth: No one will be excluded from posting
beer-related information on the Home Brew Digest. No one.
Cheers!
The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:00:50 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Scotmalt
Steve Alexander <steve-alexander@worldnet.att.net> wrote
>BTW - let me repeat my request - does anybody know where to get 'Brewing
>Products' malts in the US ??
GW Kent, Inc. of Ann Arbor, Michigan, imports and distributes the Scotmalt
line. They switched sometime this summer from Hugh Baird. The product
seems fine, no apparent difference that I've heard of noted by AABG users
and one local brewpub, except that the price is 14% lower. Standard
disclaimer. Randy Reichwage, GWK owner with his wife, Chantal, is a
longtime member of AABG.
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:39:29 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner@umich.edu>
Subject: Zapap improvements
Curt Sutliff's question about food grade buckets for a zapap and Dave
Burley's suggestion about using a soldering iron to make the holes (I wish
I'd thought of that in 1983 when I spent many, many hours drilling) prompt
me to offer some suggestions for improvements again. I used a zapap from
1983 (I know, the date of manufacture is stamped on the bottom of the
buckets) until about two years ago, when I moved to a 10 gallon aluminum,
bottom fired (therefore not automatic) RIMS based on the Pico system. A
zapap is a great way to inexpensively do all grain. I think the geometry
offered is better than with a rectangular cooler. I made well over a
hundred batches in mine, some of which were great (IMNSHO). You can also
use it for malting grain.
1) Silicon seal (food grade) the two buckets to eliminate air being sucked
through the gap during lautering, as happened to me. You can remove and
recaulk for occasional cleaning, but not that stuff much accumulated in my
experience, and you need it only clean, not even sanitized.
2) Insulate it with the thick styrofoam shipping container for a 7 gallon
carboy (I bought from St. Patrick's of Austin). The bottom is a perfect
fit. I insulated to lid with a circle cut from 1" foam. Plastic bubble
wrap works for the part of the bucket that sticks above the carboy jacket.
This holds the temperature rock solid. BTW, I have three of these
containers that I no longer need if local brewers want them.
3) Reduce the space under the false bottom to less than 1" by cutting down
the top of the outer bucket.
Jeff
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner@umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:10:31 -0500
From: jucks@cfaft4.harvard.edu (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580)
Subject: 1998 Boston Homebrew Competition
I am pleased to announce the Fourth Annual BOSTON HOMEBREW COMPETITION
to be held on February 21, 1998 in Somerville Mass. This competition is
sponsorerd by and run by the Boston Wort Processors. Entry deadline has
been set as the 14th, and must be received by that date. This competition
will also be one of the first Qualifying Events for the Masters Championship
of Amateur Brewing (MCAB) that many of y'all have been reading about on
this forum.
All of the information anyone needs to enter the competition or to judge in
the competition can be found at http://www.wort.org, including entry forms,
bottle labels, judge registration forms, etc. I encourage all of y'all who
are interested in this competition to obtain your information through this
channel. For those of y'all who don't have web access, e-mail myself (Ken
Jucks, jucks@cfa.harvard.edu) with your e-mail and snail-mail addresses and I
will get you the required information ASAP.
Thanks,
Ken Jucks
Coordinator for the 1998 Boston Homebrew Competition
jucks@cfa.harvard.edu
http://www.wort.org <-- See this site!!! ***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 10:15:48 -0800
From: rust1d@usa.net
Subject: Re: MIXMASHER vs RIMS
Shawn Dodds wrote (in r.c.b.):
> It's been way too long since my mechanical engineering classes (or I'm
> too lazy) for me to calculate gear diameters, rotational velocity,
> teeth per inch and torque, but if I had the appropriate gears, I'd
> probably just try getting a $30 fan from Kmart and use both the blade
> and the UL approved motor.
>
> Just a thought, Now, if I can just find the gears.....
American Science and Surplus has a motor/gear box from a battery powered
car. It is listed as 3-12 VDC. At 3 VDC 1 amp it runs about 35 rpm. It
sells for $12.50. They also sell Universal DC power supplies rated
1.5-12 VDC for $7.50. With these two major parts running about $20.00
the MixMasher seems rather cheap to build. Now I just need to find a fan
blade. Or perhaps a industrial paint stirrer would fit the bill?
Now since I already have a RIMS, why would I not want to use these two
devices in tandem? This would probably eliminate setting the bed with
gummier mashes. I also find that my RIMS mash is always a degree or two
cooler around the edges of my SS mash tun. This might also help with
batch sparges.
FYI, American Science & Surplus can be found at:
http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/catindex.html
The motor/gear box can be found at:
http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/wired/27172.html
The Universal Wall Adapter can be found at:
http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/wired/23684.html
- --
John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady
Boneyard Brewing The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program
Glenside, PA rust1d@usa.net
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:44:35 -0500
From: kathy <kbooth@scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us>
Subject: alcohol limitation programs
I have read and seen news items about alcohol abuse programs which
feature behavior modification to enable individuals to stop at an
appropiate number of beverages rather than insisting on abstinence. As
I remember the presentations, they suggested most of the countries
outside of the USA emphasized this technique of learning controlling
behaviors and only in the USA was abstinance the prevailing mode of
treatment.
As I remember the sucess rates were presented as comparable to the USA
12 step mode and it was emphasized that some individuals were not able
to control their drinking.
I am not involved professionally or personally in any way with this area
of concern but more information is of interest to me as I know an
individual who loves beer and drinks and has had incidents of alcohol
abuse.
TIA Jim Booth, Lansing, MI private responses at
kbooth@waverly.k12.mi.us
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:14:09 -0600
From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton@iastate.edu>
Subject: Boiling Over!!
Dear HBD:
It has once again come time for the HBD pot to boil over. The symptoms are
clear: one or two highly opinionated persons begin to lob accusations back
and forth. Next, a few allies on both sides begin to weigh in, then most of
the digest's bandwidth is wasted with DID TOO/DID NOT argument.
Almost like a boiling pot that boils over when covered. It seems that this
type of boil-over occurs at least twice a year, and would probably occur
much more frequently if there was no queue. So, once again, thank you Mr.s
Babcock and Lutzen for overseeing this often chaotic environment.
If pattern holds, this recent bout of flaming will subside, and a flood of
excellent technical information will come our way. Just like when we as
brewers recognize that the pot is boiling over, and take action to get the
situation under control. Once we get back to business, the digest really
fulfills its purpose; providing an environment for the dissemination of
quality (if not often anecdotal) information.
Keep it coming, and don't censor anyone.
Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:24:43 -0700
From: "Lee, Ken" <KLee@resdata.com>
Subject: Converting 10 Gallon Gott to a RIMS
I have been using my 10 gallon Gott cooler as an infusion mash/lauter
tun, and am interested in learning how I can convert it to a RIMS
system. I have seen a picture of one, but never seem explicit
instructions on how to do this. If any one has done this or knows a web
page/article that describes how to do this in detail (diagrams, parts
list, etc.), would you please let me know! I am not mechanically
inclined, I just really like to tinker with this stuff!
Thanks,
Ken Lee
klee@resdata.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:46:11 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: Mixmasher
>Human intervention is required to monitor and adjust the heat source
>but I really doubt that many RIMS users go to a football game after
>setting up a mash. Surely, half the fun of using it must be *watching
>it work
Absolutely, and I cannot imagine watching a football game during
brewing. Most of my spare time is spent thinking about the next steps
in the proccess, and what can be done to improve the next brew. If I am
not doing that, I am entering information into the brewing log.
I am at the point of design and implementation of my RIMS where I can
decide on two paths to take.
1) The current setup uses manual controls for temperature, pump
operation, and dial thermometers.
2) I could automate the entire RIMS, but my current thinking is that
while it could be done, it really is not neccessary or desirable. I
could computerise the thermometers, the pumps, the heaters, etc.., but
do I really want to?
I still need to stir in the grain, prepare the brewing liquor (PH
adjustment, chlorine removal). Then I need to boil, add hops, etc.., so
why automate?
Now if I liked gadgets, (and I love them), then sure the fun of it all
may be worth it, but I am not fooling myself into thinking it is the
best way to brew.
Ron
rlabor@lsumc.edu Ronald J. La Borde Metairie, LA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:02:41 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: Mixmasher
>The motor output speed is 30 RPM. As motors are *expensive*, I
>estimated this requirement by timing hand stirring and hooking The
>gear-motor I use was purchased from Granger for about *$90* but if
>you only want to make one, they are available on the surplus market
>for $10 or so.
Just an idea, if you decide to go this route, I have recently purchased
an orange juicer. This was to juice 20 pounds of oranges for my orange
wine (yeah! fermenting away even as I speak), and I noticed upon
cleaning it and preparing it for storage that it may make a great
motor-drive device. It has plenty of torque, is in a base unit with a
hex shaft for output. It would take some mechanical mussings to get it
all going, but it was cheap, I think around $20.00.
Ron
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsumc.edu
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:40:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Samuel Mize <smize@prime.imagin.net>
Subject: Give Schmidling a free HBD membership!
Greetings to all on the Jack Schmidling Digest.
>Take him off this forum !!!!!!
Jack presents some non-mainstream views about brewing, and I thank him for it.
The process on electronic forums (fora?) is that everybody shoots off their
mouth, and the readers weed out what makes sense for them. Jack contributes a
great deal of value to this process, even when he's wrong, by making other
people think through and clarify their own positions.
Re Alcoholism: Some research indicates that addictive behavior has a
neurological basis. However, a small but significant number of alcoholics
find that they can return to drinking in moderation. Perhaps there are two or
more types of alcoholic -- addictive and learned, perhaps?
Re Courtesy: this has been lacking on both sides of this debate. Remember,
the more snide you sound, the less credible you remain.
It would be good for both sides to present their own experiences and
information without implying the other side is lying, or made up of spineless
losers or irresponsible drunk-baiters. (Exaggerated for emphasis. Slightly.)
On the net, if you aren't careful to be almost courtly, you can sound
insulting. This creates a lot of anger and argument and boring wasted space.
Some people I respect, in several forums, have not learned this. What goes
into their keyboards is just emphasis and jocular good humor, but what comes
out of some screens is snide, thinly veiled abuse.
Other people just enjoy starting fights. They are small people. Ignore them.
If you just HAVE to snap back at someone, please do so via email. Here in
HBD, feel free to refute their erroneous data, or share your own experiences.
Thanks,
Sam Mize
- --
Samuel Mize -- smize@imagin.net -- Team Ada
Fight Spam - see http://www.cauce.org/
(personal net account)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:53:48 -0500
From: William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN@Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US>
Subject: Allergic Reaction to Beer
Greetings beer people. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
A friend recently had a strong allergic reaction to a hoppy
Micro-brewed Pilsner. He got hives all over his face and had a
slight tightening sensation in his chest. We have isolated the
reaction to the beer consumption. He has consumed other beer
previously, you could say extensively, but had not had highly
hopped pilsner before. Since that occurrence, a few weeks ago,
he had a much milder reaction to drinking Rolling Rock. Anything
similar happen to anyone else? Any ideas on whether it was
likely triggered by the yeast or hops? Any opinion on whether it
is likely a reaction to low hopped, filtered beer will pass?
Also, a few years back, I did a search of the HBD archives
through a technical homebrewing page (I could never get Stanford
figured out) but I can't remember the URL. Any suggestions on
good search vehicles for HBD archives would also be appreciated.
HBD or private responses would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Gladden
W_Gladden@Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:05:19 EST
From: KennyEddy <KennyEddy@aol.com>
Subject: MixMasher
Being one of the resident "gadget gurus", I thought I'd chime in on the JS
MixMasher thread. I think it's a great system that anyone who's remotely
"handy" can cobble together rather easily. There are some questions/concerns
that have been raised so I'll toss my two cents in on those points:
*HSA*
I, too, wonder about the HSA issue, and will defer judgement to other more
knowledgable contributors. But if the cover is made to fully enclose the
mash, wouldn't the mash be covered mostly by water vapor (assuming a hot-
enough mash-in)? Maybe a quick flush with CO2 before placing the lid would
alleviate problems.
*Recirculation*
To me, RIMS' recirculation advantage is two-fold. First, it evens mash
temperature by moving the liquid around. Second, it clarifies the wort,
eliminating the need for a "manual" recirculation step prior to sparging.
On the temperature issue, see next topic below. As for clarification, I get
adequate clarification with my non-RIMS setup in a few minutes of manual
recirculation, and some writers (Noonan comes to mind) have raised the
possibility of deleterious effects (lipid extraction) from over-circulation.
Don't know whether there's any real cause for concern but in any case, I don't
see recirculation to be a huge thing. Combining the MixMasher with an
Easymasher outlet would presumably minimize the clarification time anyhow.
Improved enzyme contact with the grain could be a third advantage of RIMS, but
this is also addressed with Jack's system.
*Temperature Control*
This is definitely the MixMasher's shortcoming when compared to RIMS.
However, a simple solution is to put a RIMS-type heater controller on it,
controlling an electric heating coil onto which the pot is placed (a 120V hot-
plate would probably be perfect). Also, several sources (Omega and Minco come
to mind) supply flat flexible heating elements that could be attached directly
to the bottom or sides of the pot (and covered with a wrap of fiberglass
insulation). This would make the unit fully stand-alone. The motion of the
mash over these surfaces would presumably provide efficient transfer of heat
through the vessel. Aluminum vessels would have an advantage over stainless
in this regard.
As for cost, as has been said, it's probably comparable either way, since one
can pay anywhere from nothing to hundreds of dollars for either type of
system, depending on one's abilities and sources for components.
If the HSA issue could be addressed satisfactorily, I think that this type of
system can join RIMS in the Gadget Hall of Fame. No need for either to go to
the museum just yet.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:05:15 EST
From: KennyEddy <KennyEddy@aol.com>
Subject: Bottle Labels
Dave Thomson asks about label-making software for bottles.
I made a batch of amber ale to give away as Christmas presents, and so I
thought a nice label would lend a "professional" touch. My goal was to
produce something in color that wouldn't smudge or run under the unpredictable
conditions of my recipients' holiday ice chests or whatever. (I also force-
carbonated and CP-bottled these for no-sediment bottles).
I used the newest version of Print Shop, and set the project up as a "mailing
label". This allowed me to create one label which the software automatically
prints six-up. Depending on which label you specify, the number per page and
the size will vary, bit I found this size to be perfect. By virtue of the
automatic multiple-up printing, the labels were nicely aligned so I could cut
them out with broad strokes of an Exacto knife rather than having to cut them
out individually with scissors. The huge assortment of graphics and word-art
features make it quite easy to make slick-looking labels.
The other thing I did, which addresses the smudging/smearing issue, was to
bring the color ink-jet printout to a copy place (like Kinko's) and make color
copies. Since I had six labels per page, I only needed 8 copies to do the 48
bottles I ended up with, so the cost is pretty minimal (and these were gifts,
so who cares?).
If black-and-white labels are OK with you, a laser-printer output on good-
quality laser paper will be waterproof. B/W ink jet printer output will still
smudge if it gets wet, so simple (cheap) photocopying would be a good idea in
that case. Use your employer's copy machine for best cost-effectiveness ;-)
Many word processors and database programs have multiple-up mailing label
capability. For simple labels, this may be adequate. If you're into lots of
color & graphic effects, though, you'll need a more graphic-oriented
application.
I used a single thin bead of "Tacky Glue" around the edge of the label to
affix them to the bottles. This allows easy removal by running under hot
water for a few seconds. For non-returnable gifts, more glue would be OK, but
not necessary. "Glue sticks" also work well.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:19:39 -0600
From: rlabor@lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: GET RID OF HIM
>Subject: Schmidling take him off the digest.
>Take him off this forum !!!!!!
>All he uses this is for his own benefit !!!!
>It is a great sales tool for him !!!!
>GET RID OF HIM !!!!!!
"Do not pride yourself on the few great men who, over the centuries,
have been born on your earth -- through no merit of yours.
Reflect, rather, on how you treated them at the time, and how you have
followed their teachings."
-- Albert
Einstein
Ron
Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor@lsumc.edu
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2602, 01/06/98
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