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HOMEBREW Digest #2408
HOMEBREW Digest #2408 Wed 30 April 1997
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@brew.oeonline.com
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Pressure Cooking First Runnings (XKCHRISTIAN)
Autolysis/Attenuation ("Nathan L. Kanous II")
Copper Manifold,yeast ("R. Wayne McCorkle")
Percentage Open Area in a RIMS False BottomI was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false bottom for a RIMS system? I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with 1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that thisgives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient? (gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient?)
Quick disconnects on ball? or pin? lock (Cory Chadwell)
Princeton's PALE ALES (Richard Taft)
Flaked Wheat (Bob Tisdale)
Re: Maris Otter problems (Pat Lohmann)
brewing in small batches. (Barry Finley)
Soak, Oak, Choke, Poke ("David R. Burley")
Oud Bruin Gone South (Chico Seay)
drilling mistake (Jeff Sturman)
nitrogen/co2 (Jeff Sturman)
Equipment Sources ("Myers, John")
re:Korny Kegs - foam (Charles Burns)
How to use ph sticks/sparge water/Marris-Otter & EM (Tim Martin)
Rogue Shakespeare Stout - dryhopped? (Tom Gaskell)
Electric Wort Boiler Page ("C.D. Pritchard")
YeastLabs Retailer ("Val J. Lipscomb")
CRUD (Scott Dornseif)
CIP Cleaining ("Lorena Barquin Sanchez")
Oatmeal Stout?/Barleywine recipe (Sean Mick)
Ultimate Brewing setup SUMMARY (Jeff Donnelly)
Starter procedure for lager yeasts? (LINUSNLILA)
Brown Blah's (Charles Burns)
Salvaging an Underattenuated Batch? (Richard Stueven)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:36:14 -0800 (PST)
From: XKCHRISTIAN@ccvax.fullerton.edu
Subject: Pressure Cooking First Runnings
Hi HBDers,
Well I have been away from HBD for quite a while but I have not
forgotten my roots ;-). As some of you may remember me. I had a large
harvest of Cascade and Perle hops this year and I shared them with many of
you. The hop growing went to well and I need to scale it back from 4
mounds to 2 mounds. In pursuit of trying some of your fine homebrew, I
would like to make a swop. If you will send me a 6-pak of your fine
homebrew, I will send you some rhysomes of your choice either Cascade or
Perle.
If you are interested in making a swop, pleas contact me by personal
email at XKCHRISTIAN@FULLERTON.EDU or by phone at 714 638-
3201. I live in Orange County CA.
Keith
XKCHRISTIAN@FULLERTON.EDU
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 07:03:02 -0400
From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous@tir.com>
Subject: Autolysis/Attenuation
Dave Bradley asks about autolysis in his beers brewed with Wyeast London
and Thames Valley yeasts. Dave, I think I have noticed the same problem
with these yeasts. I didn't know what to call it, but I guess it does
amount to "yeast bite". I couldn't get it out of the pale ales (2) that
I made with the Thames Valley, but the one with the London is getting
much better with age. I think this may be due to suspended yeast, but
don't know. To the collective, will the yeast bite associated with
autolysis attenuate with age? If this is just yeast in suspension,
would adding finings at bottling time help? Anybody with experience?
Second on attenuation. I read what I can and I always notice
attenuation figures as they relate to specific beer styles. It is
talked about when we look at mash schedules (controlling fermentabilty).
It is also listed as a characteristic of yeast strains. My question is
this, which is more important for dictating attenuation, mashing
schedule or yeast strain? Now, keep in mind that if one intends to make
a large malty dopplebock, mashing schedule is going to have a dramatic
influence on finishing gravity. But for the run of the mill ale or
lager that doesn't require a high final gravity, which is most
important, yeast or mash temps?
TIA.
Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 07:16:00 -0600 (MDT)
From: "R. Wayne McCorkle" <wmccorkl@psl.nmsu.edu>
Subject: Copper Manifold,yeast
I have built myself a copper manifold for use in the old picnic cooler. It
seems there is quite a buite burned type of material in the tubes as a
result of soldering. Anyone have suggestion as to the best method of
cleaning prior to use?
Also, I was talking with a friend a few weeks ago and we got on the
subject of yeast. Suppose one were to make a batch with dry yeast. Then,
suppose that the slurry is saved for culturing. Is this now liquid
yeast?!?!? Or do we still consider it a dry yeast strain?
Thanks,
Wayne
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 08:19:22 -0500
From: chris@megsinet.net (Chris Ragaisis)
Subject: Percentage Open Area in a RIMS False BottomI was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false bottom for a RIMS system? I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with 1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that this gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient?
Thanks,
Chris Ragaisis
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false
bottom for a RIMS system? I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with
1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that this
gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient?
Thanks,
Chris Ragaisis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 08:34:05 -0500
From: cory@okway.okstate.edu (Cory Chadwell)
Subject: Quick disconnects on ball? or pin? lock
Collective,
Just a quickie today. I got some cornie's from a buddy that used to
keg quite a bit of his own beer. However he no longer had quick
disconnects for the cornie's nor could he remember if they were pin or
ball lock type. Because of this I can't order what I need from the
resources suggested to me by several quality members of the HBD
conscience. How can I tell Ball Lock from Pin Lock on my cornie?
Private Email is fine.
THX, Cory
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 09:45:33 -0400
From: Richard Taft <rtaft@unx.dec.com>
Subject: Princeton's PALE ALES
I'm pretty amazed also at the quality of guest speakers we
get at PALE ALES meetings. Last night's speaker, while
interesting, was not as good as some we've had. (Wm. Crisp
came all the way from England to explain all about the
malting business, for one; and the guy from Stoudts brewery
was certainly entertaining!)
I'm sure it's a lot of work to find and attract speakers and
then to accommodate them before and after the meeting. We
owe a lot of gratitude to Kent and the other officers of the
club and to Joe (our local homebrew shopkeeper and club elder
statesman).
(Re: Triumph: I had the Bengal Pale Ale last night.
Deliciously hoppy!)
-Rick Taft
rtaft@unx.dec.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:26:31 +0100
From: rtisdale@entomology.msstate.edu (Bob Tisdale)
Subject: Flaked Wheat
I have brewed many wheat beers and have never used flaked wheat in any of
my resipes.
I would like some information on flaked wheat please.
Thank you,
Bob Tisdale
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 10:50:07 EDT
From: Pat Lohmann <pat@ale.whoi.edu>
Subject: Re: Maris Otter problems
content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii
mime-version:1.0
"Michael Dowd" <mikedowd@geocities.com> asks: >Does anyone else out
there have any experience with using an EasyMasher >and Marris-Otter
malt?
I haven't had any problems with sparging Crisp Maris-Otter malt (I use a
perforated screen, not EasyMasher), but I have big problems with it
balling up when adding it to the mash water. I use a fixed MaltMill to
crush. I've never had these problems with Briess, Schreier, M&F, HB,
Ireks, or DWC. My brother using quite different procedures from mine (he
adds water to the malt, I add malt to the water) reports the same
problems. I also get a slightly higher extraction efficiency than with
these other malts. Maybe Crisp Maris Otter produces more flour when
crushed? I wonder if all Maris Otter behaves like this or only that from
Crisp?
In spite of the problems (it just takes longer), I find Crisp MO an
excellent malt and will continue to use it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:47:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Barry Finley <bfinley@arches.uga.edu>
Subject: brewing in small batches.
I am curious to know if anyone brews in 1 to 2 gal batches. I have found
that when I brew 5 gallon batches, it takes me forever to drink it up. Not
many people I know like the beer that I brew (not that its bad, but they
only like budmilloors style beer). It would be easier for me to brew in 1
to 2 gallon batches, that way I could brew more often. I also have
acquired a small fridge that can hold two 1 gallon glass jugs so that I
can try my hand a brewing a lager. If anyone has reciepies that they would
be willing to share with me, it would be very much appreciated.
**********************
Barry C. Finley
Science Education
University of Georgia
**********************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:27:15 -0400
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley@compuserve.com>
Subject: Soak, Oak, Choke, Poke
Brewsters:
Scott Dornsett says:
>I covered the dry burned on crud with common 3% Hydrogen peroxide soln,
>After soaking for about an hour, I wiped all of the H2O2 off, leaving only
>The soln that soaked into the crud. Then I poured straight household
>Bleach, fully covering the affected area, (sounds like a rash). Within 20
>Mins the crud was almost completely gone. COOL.
Actually I doubt the peroxide hurt, but it didn't do much. Bleach is made
by electrolysing brine and has chlorine in a lye solution (sodium
hypochlorite plus lye). The caustic portion of the bleach was the agent
which removed the crud, since burned organic matter has lots of carboxylic
acid ends hanging around and they get solubilized as the sodium salt. Any
fatty esters (oils, grease) make soap. Any oxidation from the chlorine
could be solubilized by the caustic.
I believe Oven-Off is a combo of caustic soda ( lye or chemically sodium
hydroxide) and sodium carbonate. I clean my stove top with this if I have a
real bunch of crud ( which I rarely do anymore). This is the reason I wash
my plastic fermenters and glassware with straight bleach first to remove
any organics, dilute it with hot water, then rinse three times with hot,
boiled water. Always have safety glasses and gloves on even with Oven-Off.
Caustic is MUCH worse than acid in your eyes as it destroys tissue by
lifting layers of tissue and penetrates.
- ---------------------------------------------------
Graham did a splendid job on the oak casks information in past centuries in
Merry Olde. Thanks. Steeping the oak staves to remove the tannin ( and
presumably the vanillin and other flavors) seems to answer to some extent
whether or not the british ales had an oakey taste. Apparently not. I
still find it hard to believe that unlined casks could be shipped such long
distances without spoiling the beer. Not withstanding the high hop rates in
the Bitters sent to India. Although the comment about absorbing tannin
certainly supports the idea that the casks were unlined, at least for
things like the high alcohol Imperial Stouts sent to Russia.
American Red oak is porous and is said to taste like cat pee. American
White oak better flavored and is much harder, less porous and is the
variety used in making barrels for the whiskey trade. Recent advances(?) in
treating American white oak like the French do their oak has produced
promising results in wine casks.
- -------------------------------------------------
Dave Whitman in describing his agar yeast medium says:
10% dry malt extract
2% agar (cheap food grade from a chinese grocery store)
0.25% diammonium phosphate ("yeast energizer" from brew shop)
0.25% yeast extract ("Marmite" toast spread from English specialty shop)
I always KNEW there was a good use for Marmite. I certainly wouldn't spread
it on MY toast! I believe it is right up there with cod liver oil as a
horrible tasting health food used during the Great wars. Brits and Ozzies
who grew up on it apparently like it.
- -----------------------------------------------
George DePiro in commenting on a hold at 145F says:
> significant starch conversion does occur at 130-135F (~56C). He is
> now planning on holding the main mash at 145F (62.7C), because he
> believes this temp to be "pretty harmless."
> At 145F, you'll get even faster beta-amylase activity.
No disagreement there. Just not much alpha amylase So if no low molecular
starches, no result of beta activity. Ergo no sugars.
> You'll convert most of the starch into fermentables in your main mash.
How?
> You
> Will not release all that much unconverted starch in the decoction
> Step,
Why not? All of the starch in the decocted portion should be released.
I'm sure you know this George. There are three steps to producing sugar
from starch. The first step is gelatinization ( at T>149F for barley) the
second is solubilization (alpha amylase activity) and the third is
saccharification ( beta amylase activity). Some activity will occur below
145F, especially with malt that has been highly modified, since it has some
starch that has been modified by several days at malting temperatures, but
it really needs to be a higher temperature to get gelatinization so the
alpha can do its job of starch solubilization. I believe the reason the
classical saccharification range is 149F to 158F has to do the lower
temperature being the gelatinization temperature of the barley starch.
Experiments have been done on holding at lower temperatures for several
days and if I recall correctly as much as 60% of the starch is converted at
lower temperatures - but not all of it. Since this was in M&BS, I assume
it was a highly converted malt that was used. I don't know what would
happen with a classical lager malt.
> If you are really paranoid
> About degrading proteins and starches without wanting to, rest the
> Main mash at ~100F (39C).
The reason for choosing 145F was to degrade the proteinase proteins ( both
protease and peptidases), then allow the main mash to cool off a little to
minimize any amylase activity.
> Get the mash to the next step (if it's to far above 100F, you'd need
a
> ridiculously large decoct to hit it).
Which is of course why the hold is at 140-145F, so a reasonable sized
decoct can be used and hit 158F immediately, with no heatup to produce
dextrins.
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202@compuserve.com
Dave_Burley@compuserve.com
Voice e-mail OK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 11:40:24 CDT
From: cseay@TUblue.pa.utulsa.edu (Chico Seay)
Subject: Oud Bruin Gone South
Help. My beer is RUINED, but i'm still not giving up.
Last night I made an extract Oud Bruin batch. I
did everything to this beer including calling its mother
ugly, but at the end of the boil I treated it with all
the delicacy of a normal beer (to prevent postboil
runaway infection). So what's it do to me? Infects this
morning. White flecks on top of the krausen, and a filmy
stunkque on the edge of the carboy at krausen level.
But I'm not going to give up yet. When in doubt, change
styles is what I say.
So my question is: what can I do to this beer to lambicize
it, if possible? I've read on the timing of adding B. lambicus
and B. Brucelocis is is and so on, but the beer is already
out of the starting gate. Any advice? I am planning on
racking it to 12 lbs of raspberries in a week or so now. I
am also planning on letting this stuff ferment for 4-6 months
now as well. Is there anything else I can do to this stuff
to round out a sour profile?? Is my ruined beer ruined??
Here's the 'recipe':
3 six packs of a previously infected light beer (another story)
5 lbs Breiss Amber Malt extract, accidently soured in the bucket
last summer, and then frozen for just such an occasion
2 lbs 2-row malt, crushed, mashed, mashed out and added one
handful of crushed grain, and kept at 120 deg. for 2
days, and then sparged into wort (wanted 130 deg. but that's
what I got)
1 lb. Dried Wheat Malt Extract (the only normal thing in this mess)
1 1/2 oz hops (pretty stale) from the herb shop
Pitched onto Wyeast Belgian ale 1312 (?) yeast from an earlier
batch (this is probably where I picked up the current infection,
as the infection took on so quickly).
Boiled 2 1/2 hours. Chilled in immersion chiller. Called it all
sorts of names. (didn't wear plaid, though. Maybe I should have).
Chico the Cereal Beer Abuser
Tulsa, OK
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:35:15 -0700
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Subject: drilling mistake
A homebrew compadre and I recently made some major improvements to my keg
fridge. What should have taken a hour at most ended up being a 3.5 hour
pita. When we drilled through the side of the refrigerator the 7/8" hole
saw got hold of some wires which wrapped around the hole saw and, well you
get the idea. We dismantled the entire thing, tracing down where the wires
came from and went to. We got everything rewired and now my fridge has two
chrome faucets on the side of it with an ss drip tray underneath. Very
cool! Be careful when you drill through the side of your refrigerator. I
drilled through the side that houses the temperature control module, which
was probably not real smart. When we tore the thing apart I realized there
were lots of wires on that side, but no wires on the other side. Hopefully
this will help somebody avoid the same pinhead mistake.
jeff
casper, wy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:35:30 -0700
From: brewshop@coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Subject: nitrogen/co2
One of my customers is hell bent on using nitrogen to serve his homebrew.
He wants to know if he can carbonate the beer with straight co2 and then
serve the beer with straight nitrogen. Mainly because pure nitrogen is
considerabely cheaper than a mix of nitrogen/co2. Will this work? I told
him the reason for the mix probably has something to do with keeping the
beer carbonated. Pure nitrogen pressure on the keg probably wouldn't do
this. Did I lie to him? Help, anyone?
TIA
jeff
casper, wy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 13:19:24 -0400
From: "Myers, John" <JMyers@polkaudio.com>
Subject: Equipment Sources
Greetings to the collective.
Here's a couple of potential sources for homebrew equipment:
Consolidated Plastics Company, Inc.
8181 Darrow Road
Twinsburg Ohio 44087
vox 216.425.3900
fax 216.425.3333
(note new area code 330 effective 9/1/97)
United States Plastic Corp.
1390 Neubrecht Road
Lima Ohio 45801
vox 800.537.9724
fax 419.228.5034
Both companies have gobs of food-grade stuff in plastic and stainless
steel. They also have hand, mag-drive and peristaltic pumps, as well as
high-temp silicone tubing. Bulk discounts, too, so I thought it might
be worth the while of brew clubs to check them out and get a big order
together.
Standard disclaimer applies, "I have no affiliation BLAH..."
If this has been presented in the past, forgive the waste of bandwidth.
Ooonngawa,
john
***********************************************************************
* John Myers Polk Audio Inc. *
* Mechanical and Industrial Design Manager "The Speaker
Specialists"*
***********************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:08:07 -0700
From: Charles Burns <cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: re:Korny Kegs - foam
Doublas Moyer asks about foaming/serving from kegs in hbd #2407.
The 8 psi might be a little high, but you do have 5' of hose, so maybe
not.
My *guess* is that the foaming problem is coming from whatever
transition is occuring inside the shank.
My setup is an upright with 5 kegs and the co2 tank inside the fridge
(18 cuft). The maximum length of hose is 30" from "OUT" (on the keg) to
the shank. I use 3/16 tubing same as you, but on the other end of the my
shanks are faucets, 4 of them. I always get a little burst of foam from
the C02 that appears to have come out of solution inside the hoses. I
serve at 4-6 psi. Temp is usually 40-44F.
Overcarbonation is unlikely the problem, as you point out, it gets
better the more you serve. My force carbonation procedure:
a. Keg the beer.
b. Pressurize to 25-30psi.
c. Disconnect and Chill keg 24 hours @ 33-34F
d. Re-connect at 25-30psi.
e. Shake it for 5 minutes (no more no less). I roll it on the floor back
and forth across the edge of a rug (bump, roll, bump, roll...) always
keeping the C02 IN connector submerged so I can hear the gas going into
the tank. Eventually, towards the end of the 5 minutes, the gurgling
sound gets fainter and fainter until it nearly stops completely.
f. Disconnect and Chill at 33F for 24 more hours (still at 25-30psi).
g. Reduce pressure to 4-6 psi, fill an 8 oz glass and throw it away
(sediment). Serve. Never fails.
Charley
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:17:23 -0400
From: Tim Martin <SOUTHWESTERN.SCC#u#MAIL.TimM@southwest.cc.nc.us>
Subject: How to use ph sticks/sparge water/Marris-Otter & EM
Hey Neighbors,
Back in December I asked you all to help me improve my efficiency and
quite a few responded that I should acidify my sparge water, so that's
what I did this brew season. I bummed some phosphoric acid from the
local university chem. dept. and added it to my filtered sparge water.
Each time I brought the water to 70df and added the acid with an eye
dropper and then checked with colorPHast brand indicator sticks until I
achieved my target. My technique is to place the ph stick into the water
for about 3 seconds, sling off excess water and wait about 15 seconds
before I take my reading. My problem is I have no formal background in
this and it appears to me that the stick keeps changing colors with time
so I'm really not sure if I'm taking an accurate reading or not. Question at
last! How long should I wait before I take my reading? By the way my
efficiency increased to 75% but I'm not sure why because I changed so
many things.
*************************
In #2399 Al K. comments on another question I had back in December on
acidifying sparge water and he says "An option is to acidify your sparge
water only when you need to...i.e. only at the end of the sparge." I wish
I had known this at the beginning of the brew season because I have
been adding acid to all my sparge water but at least I will know for next
season. Thanks Al... I tend to think many of us may be acidifying all our
sparge water because no one mentioned this to me nor have I read it
before, on the other hand maybe everyone else knew better.
*************************
Michael Dowd recently ask how to prevent his EM from sticking using
Marris-Otter. My last two batches were MO and I use a homemade EM
and my screen is noticeably finer. I think the trick is to add some sparge
water to float the grains before you ever touch the drain valve to
recirculate. If you open the valve first it will stick like snot on a door
knob.
I appreciate all the kind help you may give.
Tim Martin
Cullowhee, NC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:05:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: gaskell@borg.com (Tom Gaskell)
Subject: Rogue Shakespeare Stout - dryhopped?
Hi all,
Just a quick question regarding a beer that I had a few months back, and
have read reviews which differ greatly from my experience.
The beer in question is Rogue's Shakespeare Stout which the Blue Tusk
in Syracuse (disclaimer, yadda, yadda) had on draft before the holidays.
The brew was cask conditioned and had a VERY pronounced dry hopped aroma
and flavor - I fell in love with this beer.
Recently, I have read two reviews of this beer and seen no mention of the
wonderful hop nose in this heavenly nectar. Is the cask ale dry hopped
while the bottled version is not? Is the effect I tasted caused by the
long shipping time from the west coast to the frozen Northeast?
Now for you judges who wish to pick up HBD bonus points - would a heavily
dryhopped dry stout get clobbered in competition?
TIA.
Cheers,
Tom Gaskell Clayville, NY, USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:25:23 +0700
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp@mail.chattanooga.net>
Subject: Electric Wort Boiler Page
Just post a web page detailing a new electric wort boiler. It's similiar to
Ken Schwartz's (THANKS Ken!) with the addition of a stirrer and a manifold.
It's accessible via the URL in the sig. line below.
c.d. pritchard cdp@chattanooga.net
http://caladan.chattanooga.net/~cdp/index.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:37:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay@NetXpress.com>
Subject: YeastLabs Retailer
Greetings Brewpersons,
I am looking for a supplier of YeastLabs products, preferably in the
Southwest or South of the USA. Any help would be appreciated,since
the local suppliers don't carry it. Private e-mail is okay or post
it for all us Texans.
TIA,
Val Lipscomb-brewing in San Antonio
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 15:41:00 -0500
From: Scott Dornseif <roundboy@wwa.com>
Subject: CRUD
Dave Burlesque says
Brewsters:
Scott Dornsett says:
>I covered the dry burned on crud with common 3% Hydrogen peroxide
soln,
>After soaking for about an hour, I wiped all of the H2O2 off, leaving
only
>The soln that soaked into the crud. Then I poured straight household
>Bleach, fully covering the affected area, (sounds like a rash).
Within 20
>Mins the crud was almost completely gone. COOL.
Actually I doubt the peroxide hurt, but it didn't do much. Bleach is
made
by electrolysing (on and on)...
Actually Don, Ive soaked that crud with bleach before and it did nothing.
According to many posts I've seen here and many other places nobody has
found an easy, effective means of removing that cooked on crud, even with
Easy off. This combination of the peroxide and bleach worked quickly and
easily where nothing else did. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. I
don't know what your experiences are Darren, but then again I'm not going
to tell you about them either.
Scot DornseIF
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 19:58:03 -0400
From: "Lorena Barquin Sanchez" <mbarquin@telcel.net.ve>
Subject: CIP Cleaining
This question is similar to that of how to clean a Sankey keg posted today
April 29th. I have read that commercial breweries do their cleaning and
sanitizing using a procedure called CIP (Clean In Place). Could anyone
explain to me what the procedure is and could it be used in a Rims
instalation?
Thanks
Lorenzo Barquin
Venezuela
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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:26:28 -0800
From: homebrew@dcn.davis.ca.us (Sean Mick)
Subject: Oatmeal Stout?/Barleywine recipe
Hello intrepid brewers!
I was hoping someone out there could help me with the malt/adjunct
percentages for an oatmeal stout.
I have recently moved from Eugene, Oregon, where they make an excellent
example at the Fields brewpub. I've gathered from Michael Lewis' _Stout_
book and Michael Jackson's various tomes that most "classic" commercial
examples don't exceed 5% oats. If anyone out there can share a contrary
view or has a recipe similar to Field's Oatmeal Stout (or even Black Butte
Porter from Deschutes Brewery), please don't hesitate to share! (Private
email would be dandy, don't know the interest level for this item).
Also, there was a recent post concerning Barleywine and 1056 yeast. I've
had good luck with both items and would like to share my recipe:
6.6# Munton's extra Light extract
12# 2-row
0.75# DWC Biscuit malt (Briess Special Roast works well, too)
1# Briess crystal 20L
2 oz. Eroica hops (13.9%) 60 minute boil
1/2 oz. Tettnanger- 10 minutes
1/2 oz. Tettnanger- 1 minute
1 oz. Fuggles- steep 10 minutes while cooling
OG: ~1.095-1.100
FG:~1.024-1.028
pitch with 1056 quart starter.
yield: 4.5 gallons
I call it "Frankenstein Barleywine" because I used what I had left in my
freezer at home for finishing hops. Kind of a monster built from spare
parts. But very nice in the glass after 3-6 months maturation.
Cheers and TIA for the Stout recipe(s).
Sean Mick
Mick's Homebrew Supplies
http://www.dcn.davis.ca.us/~homebrew
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:21:56 -0400
From: Jeff Donnelly <jeffd@att.com>
Subject: Ultimate Brewing setup SUMMARY
Thanks for all the great responses to my request for the ultimate brewing
setup. For those who missed the thread, I asked for what you would buy for
an all grain setup if you could start from scratch.
Perhaps it's the make up of our group but few came back with expensive
suggestions. A couple of fellows pointed me to a 3 tier all SS 15 gal
setup for $1300. I drooled when I saw it but I have to say that it would
cost me 2 times that in flowers for my wife! On to the recommendations:
ALL suggested I get a chiller with the slight preference for counter flow.
Most liked their current mashing setup of coolers with false bottom or
slotted pipes. This surprised me since I thought lots of folks would like
to mash in a cooking pot for temp control.
Most suggested I get a couple more carboys. You can't have enough of them.
Several folks suggested that I go for a 15gal brew pot instead of a 10gal
brew pot in case I ever decide to brew 10gal batches. This seems like the
best cost saving idea for me. The recent BT article on brewing different
beers from one batch seems like a neat idea to make it easier to brew less
often and have the same amount of beer. Of course I'll need those extra
carboys. 2 suggestions for type are converted kegs (my local brew shop
will do one for $70) and the purchase of a 15gal Vollrath kettle which
would probably heat more evenly but cost more.
Several of you suggested a mill (both types) mostly as a cost savings (buy
whole bags).
Several also suggested a second pot of any type for the mash water and a
simple pot/bucket to hold the water with valve to drain into the mash vessel.
I had a clever suggestion for safely using my current stove top with a
canning kit but most suggested a medium BTU propane cooker (30k BTU)
Complete summary is available from me by email request.
Thanks again and I'm really looking forward to my first all grain batch!
jeff
mailto:jeffd@att.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 20:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: LINUSNLILA@aol.com
Subject: Starter procedure for lager yeasts?
I am in the middle of fermenting a Vienna lager, in which I used a wyeast
Bavarian lager yeast. I tried to build up a good starter by pitching the
yeast after it had formed a bulge in the package, into a medium OG starter,
and leaving it at room temperature. The yeast made a good initial effort,
but settled out to the bottom of the quart bottle by the next morning. I
drained off the wort and replaced it with a new one. The yeast never really
got going, again. When I finally brewed, I only had about 2 oz of yeast
slurry to pitch. It took forever to get going, but it is finally fermenting
pretty strong at 45 F. My question is, do lager yeast starters have to be
made at the same temperature you are going to ferment at?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 19:24 PDT
From: cburns@egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns)
Subject: Brown Blah's
Don't rest your pale ale malt at 135F. I did it on what I thought was going
to be a fantastic American Brown. I did the decoction thing while 2/3 rested
at 135F-130F for about 30 minutes. Result: Great head formation, Great head
retention, no body (very little body), lots of alcohol (buzzing as I write),
good flavor, nice aftertaste, just not enough body. Can't taste **any**
sweetness, very dry brown. Not what I was after.
No more decocting pale ale for me, I give up. I have now decocted 5 batches.
The first 4 Ihave tasted and had to toss one of them out completely it was
so bad. The last is the porter i made 2 days ago and I fear for it.
What if I made another batch of porter, and mashed it single infusion at
about 160F? Could I combine it with the other batch and end up with a beer
with some body?
Charley (lamenting decoction failures, but buzzed anyway) in N. Cal.
Charley
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:38:38 -1000
From: Richard Stueven <gak@aloha.net>
Subject: Salvaging an Underattenuated Batch?
Aloha kakou!
Thanks to a cold stretch of weather here (cold? in Hawaii? you bet)
my #108 ESB didn't attenuate nearly as far as I expected it to:
OG 1.050, FG 1.020. Now it's carbonated and in the keg, and I
guess it tastes OK, but it's not up to my usual exacting standards.
While it has a good hop flavor (thanks in part to a premature
Cascade dry-hopping), its way-too-sweet finish makes for a very
poorly-balanced beer.
I shoulda noticed the lack of attenuation when I racked the
beer. I shoulda roused the yeast somewhere along the way.
I shoulda I shoulda I shoulda. But it's probably too late
for this batch.
Or is it? What does the conventional wisdom say about getting
a fresh batch of yeast going and pitching it into this not-really-
finished beer? Overpitching would be a must, since aeration is
a bad idea this late in the game, but is there any reason this
wouldn't knock off another ten SG points? Or should I just
choke this one down and pay more attention next time?
have fun
gak
- --
Richard Stueven gak@beerismylife.com http://www.aloha.net/~gak
The Moloka`i Brewing Company http://molokaibrewing.com
Beer Is My Life! http://beerismylife.com
Breweries On The Web http://www.aloha.net/~gak/beer/brewwww.htm
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2408, 04/30/97
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