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HOMEBREW Digest #2394
HOMEBREW Digest #2394 Thu 10 April 1997
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@brew.oeonline.com
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com
Contents:
Inaccurate Scale (Rick Olivo)
Hop Survey Results (Dave Riedel)
decoction ("C&S Peterson")
Haze Question/ ("C&S Peterson")
Out of Balance? (DD)
Re: Henius and Wahl (Spencer W Thomas)
Extract Brewing Tips (Art McGregor)
Kegging equals less bottling theory (TheTHP)
Hop Profiles Pt. IV (John Goldthwaite)
Favorite Extracts Anyone? (John Goldthwaite)
Extraction.... (Tim.Watkins)
alternative decoction (BAYEROSPACE)
Black-N-Tan / Electric Chiller (KennyEddy)
Re: Malt Analysis (Steve Alexander)
Heat transfer & 55-gallon drums (Richard Stueven)
Hops Analysis Testing Protocol P (eric fouch)
Re: Pressure decoction - further thoughts (Steve Alexander)
Dry yeasts: Coopers & Whitbread (Randy Ricchi)
1997 Brew In (of local interest to NJ and PA brewers) (Mike Spinelli)
Brewing Acids (KennyEddy)
Old dregs (HBD 2392) (Edward J. Basgall)
Pils vs. lager malt (dutch)
Rochefort 10 recipe request ("MASSIMO FARAGGI")
how to use sodium metabisulfite? (Lenny Garfinkel)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 23:04:30 -0500
From: Rick Olivo <ashpress@win.bright.net>
Subject: Inaccurate Scale
George De Pero wrote:
The other big improvement came when I realized that the shop I was
purchasing my grain from was using a bathroom scale to weigh it out, and
I was getting shorted every time!There I was, blaming my water, my pH,
and myself for poor extraction when it was in fact caused by an
inaccurate scale!
George, you should report these jokers to your state's Department of
Commerce's division of weights and measures. It is illegal in all 50
states to use a spring-based uncompensated scale like a bathroom scale
for retail trade. In fact all bathroom scales say "NOT LEGAL FOR TRADE"
on them. These people are perpetrating retail fraud on their unwitting
customers. They deserve to be nailed, PDQ! This is an important issue. I
wonder how many unsuspecting homebrewers have had their recipies messed
up by similar scams. It sure goes to show that the buyer should beware--
look to make sure your grain seller is using a certified scale!
Strange Brewer aka Rick Olivo
ashpress@win.bright.net
Vita sine cerevisia suget!!!(Life without beer sucks!!!)
With apologies to Cicero
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 13:28:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Riedel <RIEDEL@ios.bc.ca>
Subject: Hop Survey Results
RESULTS OF THE HOP SURVEY:
- --------------------------
"What 4-6 hops do you have in your inventory for ale brewing?"
% of
Hop Variety Votes occur. Bitter Finish
- ------------------------------------------------------
E. Kent Goldings (EKG) 14 78% 2 7
Cascade 13 72% 1 7
Northern Brewer 10 56% 4 1
Saaz 10 56% 3
Perle 7 39% 1 1
Fuggles 6 33% 1 1
Hallertauer 6 33% 1 1
Centennial 4 22%
Chinook 4 22% 3
Columbus 4 22% 2
Mt. Hood 4 22% 1 2
Galena 3 17% 1
Liberty 3 17% 1 1
Styrian Goldings 3 17% 1
Tettnang 3 17% 1
Challenger 2 11% 1 1
Willamette 2 11% 1
Brewer's Gold 1 6%
Eroica 1 6% 1
Northdown 1 6%
Oregon Goldings 1 6%
Spalt 1 6%
Total reponses 18
Total votes 103
Average value 4.682
Observations:
- -------------
Clearly, EKG, Cascade and Saaz dominate as the preferred aroma/flavour hops.
Northern Brewer is the most popular bittering hop with Perle not far behind.
Statistically speaking, the sample set for this survey was pretty small so the
results are not particularly precise. But, roughly, given a hop selection of
4 varieties, HBDers are most likely to have EKG, Cascade, Northern Brewer and
Saaz in their freezers. Also common are Perle, Fuggles and Hallertauer.
Most common bittering hops: 1. Nothern Brewer
2. Perle
Most common finishing hops: 1. EKG
2. Cascade
3. Saaz
other notes:
- unless otherwise noted, 'Goldings' was taken to mean EKG
- the bitter/finish incidences were only recorded if the voter specifically
said he/she used those hops for that purpose
- voters didn't differentiate flavour from aroma use
- the original German strains were often specified in the case of Hallertauer
and Northern Brewer;
- if you combine the Mt. Hood and Liberty votes (both bred as US versions of
Hallertauer) you raise their total to 7 - 4th highest finish hop
- several brewers said they preferred to avoid high-alpha hops, but Chinook and
Columbus (both >10% AA) were quite popular overall
- higher alpha varieties were said to produce a more intense, sharp bitterness,
while lower alpha hops produced a softer, rounded bitterness (for the same IBU
level)
- imported varieties were at least (if not more) popular than domestic ones
suggesting the HBDers are not concerned with price relative to stylistic
accuracy; it may also imply that decent quality imported hops are available to
most HBDers
- the survey request was designed for Ales, some responses did not specify
only for that category, hence numbers for Saaz and the German noble hops may
not correctly represent their usage
* I'm not a statistician so don't torch me into a smoldering lump of goo if
I've made some gross generalization or horrendous error.
Dave Riedel
Victoria, BC Canada
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 22:57:33 UT
From: "C&S Peterson" <CNS_PETERSON@msn.com>
Subject: decoction
HBDers -
Jim Bentson provides an interesting datapoint for our decoction discussion.
In his post, he describes a pro-brewer that pulls only the thin part of the
mash for the *decoction* mash. Jim also states:
"Second, the highly modified pale ale base malt is rich in enzymes compared to
the lager malts usually used in decoction brewing, thus there are still plenty
of enzymes left in the mash after pulling the liquid. "
Is this true? I thought that for a given malt, the lower the modification,
the higher the enzyme potential. Also, I would like to know what kind of pale
ale malt the brewmaster used here. In my experience, Briess PA malt is very
similar to their Klages Lager malt, in that it has loads of enzymes in it (I
have found Klages to be VERY forgiving in the area of enzyme activity -- I get
negative starch reaction faster even with just a pound or two (~5-10%) of
Klages added to the grist...). Beeston Maris Otter, OTOH, I haven't found to
be as strong in the enzyme area. As has been mentioned before, malt lot data
sheets could solve this little riddle if we could get our hands on them.
Also, I'd like to question whether this is in fact a decoction. As we have
discussed on this thread before, there are varing components that bring in the
malt flavor to the final product. Specifically, this procedure may provide
some Mailliard and carmelization reactions, but will it bring some of the
*desired* phenols and tannins into the brew that one would get by boiling the
grain? My own WAG is that these other components provide the subtile
"complexity" of decoction brews.
I do not doubt the method used by Jim's friend will produce a fine, malty
beer. I'm in favor of boiling the first runnings to get to mash out in all of
my beers. I'm just trying to get a better handle on what is and what is not a
decoction, and what in fact decoction brings to the brew that other
alternative methods do not.
So going back to our "sources" of malty flavors we have:
1. Mailliard Reactions (browning)
2. Decoction (extraction of grain flavors -- *desireable* phenols and tannins)
3. Sparge to Grist Ratio (e.g.: the "no sparge" technique)
4. Malt Selection
5. Mash Schedule
Any thoughts?
Chas Peterson
Laytonsville, Md
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 21:25:17 UT
From: "C&S Peterson" <CNS_PETERSON@msn.com>
Subject: Haze Question/
HBDers -
Adam Rich asked a question regarding hazing (no, not the kind that occurs at
the frat house....). Adam, have you tried polyclar or gelatin? In my
experience the poly will remove the protein chill haze very well, and the
gelatin will work on suspended yeast. Also, if you can possibly stand it, let
you beer sit in the fridge for a few weeks and it may clear by itself.
Mark Bayer speaks out about high-alpha hops lending a harsh bitterness. In
general I agree Mark, but there are some hops out there (Northern Brewer in my
experience) that are not so high alpha but IMHO still have the same effect.
Also, I would strongly recommend one high-alpha hop variety -- Columbus -- for
bittering. This hop is great. I've used it in lagers and ales with great
success. In nearly all my beers this year I wished I had used more Columbus
for bittering! It is the only mid-to high alpha bittering hop that I believe
approaches the smooth bittering flavor that the nobles bring.
Just datapoints,
Chas Peterson
Laytonsville, Md
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 07:52:37 -0500
From: DD <dunn@tilc.com>
Subject: Out of Balance?
- --MimeMultipartBoundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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In one of my mentally weaker moments I misread the specific gravity of
an all grain, brown porter just as I began the boil (recipe calls for
o.s.g.: 1.050; f.s.g.: 1.015), so I added 2 1/2 lbs. of pale malt
extract syrup when in fact I was right on target as far as specific
gravity is concerned. From past experience I know to not worry and
simply taste the results, but just in case this beer is way out of
balance bitternesswise, does anyone have any experience with adjusting
bitterness after fermentation has begun? Seems I have heard/read that
one can add hop extract to the finished beer. Boil hops in water and
add the tea to taste? Dry hopping does not effect bitterness but aroma,
correct? However, I have found that dry hopped ales do seem more
bitter...smell effecting taste? Obviously this beer will not be true to
style! w
- --MimeMultipartBoundary--
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 09:27:46 -0400
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Henius and Wahl
With some trepidation, I announce the experimental online availability
(i.e., it may go away or move without prior notice) of approximately
500 scanned page images from the 1902 (2nd) edition of _The American
Handy Book of the Brewing, Malting and Auxiliary Trades_, by Robert
Wahl and Max Henius.
The URL is <http://hubris.engin.umich.edu:8080/Wahl/>.
The pages are 120 DPI GIFs, downsized from 600 DPI scans. Some page
defects (creases, tears) are visible, but I did my best to minimize
such problems.
You will need a frame-capable Web browser to view the pages (e.g.,
Netscape 2+, Internet Explorer, etc.), and since they are images, a
text-only browser (e.g., lynx) won't do you much good. I scanned the
following chapters:
Front matter (title page, preface, table of contents)
Brewing Materials
Pure Yeast Culture
Malt House Outfit
Malting Operations
Brewery Outfit
Brewing Operations
Utilization of the Byproducts of the
Brewery
The Bottling Department of a
Modern Brewery
Figuring in the Brewery
Miscellaneous Information
Bibliography
Dictionary of Technical Terms
Publications Consulted
I have no plans to scan the other material, as the book is back in the
closed stacks, and it would not be easy for me to get my hands on it
again.
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer@umich.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 10:32:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Art McGregor <mcgregap@acq.osd.mil>
Subject: Extract Brewing Tips
Hi Everyone!
This is a post for those who still extract brew, like me :^) I've been brewing
for 3-4 years, and this weekend will start batch #71. I thought a few of my
experiences might be of some interest to some of the newbies or extract brewers
out there. Some may disagree with the suggestions, but as they say "your
mileage may vary (YMMV)." If I won the lotto, I would probably do it
differently too (have more time and money for this great hobby) :^)
<<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>>
Wash Your Yeast - I use primarily one yeast -- American Ale I (#1056) for
most of my ales. Wash the yeast as described in the Yeast FAQ. After use,
store in 1 quart Mason Jars for up to 30 days with no problem. Washing of
yeast will keep costs down. I use a smack pack ~20 batches before I buy a new
one.
Bulk Extract - I buy all of my malt extract in bulk. I have used both Dry
Malt Extract (DME) and Liquid Malt Extract (LME). The bulk extract costs more
up front, but keeps the total cost down. DME can be bought for ~$100 for 55
lbs plus ~$5-10 Shipping & Handling, so is about $2/lb or $12-14/batch. The
DME stores easy if kept dry, but is messy/sticky when separating into 6-7 lb
packs. Recently I have switched to bulk LME, sold in 33 lb (3 gal) containers
for ~$50 (locally bought so no S/H), so is about $1.5/lb or about $10/batch.
80 oz (or 2 1/2 qts) is slightly more than two 3.3 lb cans. After pouring out
the bulk LME, pour 2 shots of vodka into the bulk LME container, swrirl around
top of LME, then put lid back on. The vodka has kept anything from growing in
the container between use (YMMV -- I usually brew every 2-3 weeks).
Light Unhopped Malt Extract - Buy only light or extra-light unhopped DME or
LME. You can add small quantities of dark malt to darken (usually chocolate
for most of the darkening), and add hops for bitterness.
Bulk Hops - I also buy my hops in bulk. Pick multiple types of hops in 1/2
- 1 lb (8 - 16 oz) quantities, for a total weight of 3-5 lbs, (e.g., Freshops,
HopTech, Just Hops, F.H. Steinbart, and others). A vacuum sealer machine is a
good investment, need to use oxygen barrier bags, which most of the hop vendors
ship your hops in. You should be able to buy a few extra bags from the vendor
when place your order. You can also store hops in mason jars. Must be kept in
freezer to keep alpha loss down.
Bulk Specialty Grains - If you can get specialty grains in 5 lb bags, they
save money also. Break into 1 lb units for brew day.
Post Boil Cooling - I fill three (sanitized ) 1 gallon jugs with tap water,
and put in fridge the night before brewing. At start of brewing, I put 1 of
the jugs in the freezer. After boiling the wort (~45 min), I put the kettle in
an ice bath in the sink. Then I remove the 1 gallon jug from freezer, and pour
the ice water into the kettle. This drops the temp of the wort faster than the
ice bath would by itself.
Art McGregor, Lorton, Virginia
day (mcgregap@acq.osd.mil)
night (apmcgregor@nmaa.org)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:26:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: TheTHP@aol.com
Subject: Kegging equals less bottling theory
Chris,
I thought the same way when I started kegging, but its bad theory. Reality
goes something more like this...With your new kegs, you now have new storage
capacity, Easy capacity. So guess what, More Capacity means more brewing! :)
More brewing means more variety! :) This is about where you realize that not
only drinking but brewing is also addictive. ;) With all this more brewing,
there is an increased need for turnover which is kind of difficult if you
have 4 kegs in a fridge on the back porch. It means hosting a BIG Party every
other week. OR give some away! Take some to Mom and Dad, your boss, your
friends! Trade it for yard work, what ever, This is only pratical in bottles.
(remember you can't sell it!;) Sure you can invite yourself over for dinner
and bring a pitcher of beer with you, but you'll have to walk, no open
alcohol in a vehicle laws...You can't send in a keg to a homebrew
competition. And they are a PITA to haul to a brew club meeting. Bottling is
a necessary part of home brewing. Have you made a CPBF yet? My guess is no.
But ill put money on the fact that you will. Next time your at the homebrew
shop take a close look at Phils Phittings, If you've ever sweated copper
pipes, you can build your own cheaper. My uncle has been making wine at home
for 30 years, now he's a professional Enologist. (Wine maker) Talk about some
Good Trading! Not to mention laboratory services...You may want to hold onto
all those bottles, you need to create a good distribution system. Else your
waistline will be the only thing thats distributing. Any distributor will
tell you bottles don't always make it back to you, and why some are out,
you'll want to fill others. In reality After I acquired kegs, my bottle needs
went up not down. Yours may be different, you may be a better self controlled
brewer, you may be able to handle the urge to brew better than I, but if you
spent the money to buy a kegging system, Ill bet not, its contagious, its
addictive, its almost a disease. Kegging is a symptom as is entering contests,
reading the HBD during lunch, and studying the bjcp guide at night, or
dreaming of your own PICO system, if your not careful your be building a 2nd
garage, or buying a new house your weekends could become mini trips to far
away contests, and your vacations are planned around European pub crawls!
Until you finally amass all of your notes and you retire early to write a
book on brewing! AAAGGGGGG!!!!! Maybe your right, maybe you should give away
your bottles.....just a thought....naa, I wouldn't do it.
- -------------------
I've just found a cheap source of honey. Are there any good on-line sources
of how-to mead makeing out there? Wheres a good place to start? Mead, Cyser,
meloguin (sp) methoguin Crystal Meth? (NOT) Braggot? I saw some cider in the
store last night it had Potassium Sorbate and Maltic acid listed as
additives, how bad is that. I know your supposed to get no-preservatives for
cider, but I don't feel like waiting till october for apple season again.
Denis, What part of the country are you in? Ill take those mead yeasties off
your hands!
- ---------------------
Rae Christopher J asked,
2) is there any advantage to crushing/grinding/milling/discombobulating the
grains before steeping?
Yes, you will improve extraction and can reduce time by crushing the grains.
Some homebrew shops will let you do it at the shop. If not a Corouna mill is
only 15-30$ depending on where you shop. a rolling pin in an extra heavy zip
lock works ok. in a pillow case works better for larger amount. be sure to
use a hard under surface and a sturdy rolling pin. In all cases I reccomend
using a grain bag (a sock made of cheese cloth) for steeping
1) do i steep before or after adding the extract?
Steep before or during in a differen pot. I preffered before Using a 3 pot
system. In you largest boiling kettle heat up all of your normal water. With
another pot draw out some water for steeping. Add your grain bag to this pot
and steep for a while. See below. Just before steeping remove a gallon of
hot water from your big pot to the third pot and raise temp to 170 deg. After
steeping use tongs and a collendar or kitchen strainer to fish out the grain
bag from your new wort. Let it drip into the new wort. after its done
dripping place it over you brew pot and have A DIFFERENT person SLOWLY pour
your new wort over and through your grainbag/strainer. Do the same thing with
the pot of 170F deg water. This is called sparging. It filters excess husk
and malt particals that escaped the grain bag and rinse's the extra sugars
from the grain. If you see that your rinsing is not pulling any more color
stop. Over sparging is not the best thing, but its not evil either especially
with only partial grain amounts. Now you can take your kettle off the burner
and add your liquid or dry malt extract (unmalted barley extract wouldnt
contain much sugar [any?] Its the malting that makes the starches and sugars
weather its Barley wheat or rye) After everything it is all disolved return
to burner and proceed to boiling
3) do i need to maintain the steeping at a certain temperature?
there is much debate here, I dont have my references with me, but the general
rule is just dont boil it. I steep at 150F then raise to 170F before sparging
4) how long should i really steep?
This depends mostly on what your steeping and how good your crush is. Some
grains like standard Pale Ale and Pilsner malts need specific times at
specific temps to convert starch to sugar. This process is "the mash
schedule" Most malts used for steeping and partial mashing dont require too
much attention to this. Crystal, Chocolate, Black you dont have to worry
about, some would add Carapils to this list other would not. Short answer 30
min is fine.
5) can i do hops like this as well?
Hops are a whole different ball game. For the most part Hops are added during
the boil. However, First wort hopping (FWH) could, in theory be done while
you are "Sparging" your grains into your boil pot. Though I've never heard of
an extract/partial mash brewer bothering with it. In order to "bitter" your
beer you need to Boil you hops for about an hour. In order to "flavor" your
beer with hops you need to Boil you hops for about a half hour. In order to
"smell your hops" your beer you need to Boil you hops for no more than 5
minutes. or not at all. just add them at the end of the boil and let them sit
in the beer while it cools. Use the same grain bags for Whole Hops. I don't
like hop pellets personnaly, to difficult to remove from the beer.
Good luck! welcome to the sport, and don't let the overwhelming amount of
technical talk scare you off...just brew it!
Phil Wilcox
Poison Frog Home Brewery
(Still 5gal All-graining in my Jackson Mi kitchen)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: ir358@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite)
Subject: Hop Profiles Pt. IV
Kent Goldings--Imported-(U.K.)--Finishing
Traditional old English hop. Referred to as East Kent Goldings if
grown in East Kent, Kent Goldings if grown in Mid-Kent, and
Goldings if grown elsewhere.
Alpha Acid: 4-5.5% Beta Acid: 2-3.5%
Aroma: Gentle, Fragrant and pleasant
Storage: 65-80%
Used For: Classic English ales, kettle hopping, dry hopping, spicy
flavor. Pale ales, Bitters, Porters, Stouts.
Substitutions: Goldings (British Columbia), Fuggle, Willamette.
Liberty--Domestic--Finishing
Released in 1991, aroma variety with close similarities to the
imported German aroma varieties.
Alpha Acid: 3-5% Beta Acid: 3-4%
Aroma: Mild and pleasant, quite fine.
Storage: 35-55%
Used For: Finishing. American and German ales and lagers.
Subs: German Hallertau, Mt. Hood, Crystal.
Mount Hood--Domestic--Finishing
Aroma variety with similarities to the German Hallertau and
Hersbrucker varieties, released in the U.S. in 1989.
Alpha Acid: 5-8% Beta Acid: 5-7.5%
Aroma: Mild, pleasant, clean, light, and delicate.
Storage: 50-60%
Used For: Aroma and flavor. American and German ales and lagers.
Subs: German Hallertau, Liberty, Crystal.
Northern Brewer--Domestic--All Purpose
A true dual-purpose hop containing moderate amounts of alpha
acids combined with an acceptable aroma profile.
Alpha Acid: 8-10% Beta Acid: 3-5%
Aroma: Medium-strong, some wild American tones, (what the hell
does that mean!) woody with evergreen and mint overtones.
Storage: 70-80%
Used For: Good for bittering with strong flavors and very
fragrant. Steam beers, Dark English ales, and German lagers.
Subs: Galena, Perle.
Maybe the wild American tones means boorish and arrogant
when traveling abroad. Actually I have come to LOVE Northern
Brewer. This is a great hop. More in the days to follow.
- --
BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER
BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:28:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: ir358@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite)
Subject: Favorite Extracts Anyone?
I got to thinking it might be nice if the more experienced folks
were up for a little thread on great/tasty/fave extracts, to
help out the newbs and intermediates in the crowd. What'ch'all
think?
I use Munton/Fison, Alexanders most of the time. Found John Bull
to be very good also. I like using the lightest stuff I can find
and then adding specialty grains for flavor and color. Use leaf
or plug hops and liquid yeast and your extract beers will start
to approach the all grainers. Over and Out. JG.
Oh, used Ireks a couple times and the early results are VERY
VERY promising. This may be my new favorite. Excellent stuff.
- --
BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER
BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 13:01:36 EDT
From: Tim.Watkins@analog.com
Subject: Extraction....
I need some help from the all grain guru's. I'm getting miserable
extraction efficiency. I'm only getting about 21pts/lb/gal.
A little background on my mashing procedure:
Due to my kettles (1- four gallon, and 1- five gallon), I split the mash.
I do a single step infusion at about 153-4. Half the mash goes in the four
gallon kettle, the other half goes into a 4 gallon coleman cooler. I rest
for about 90 minutes (until negative iodine test).
In the meantime, I'm heating up five gallons of sparge water in the
five gallon kettle. I heat the sparge water to about 180F.
My sparging system consists of a zapap style lauter tun. I scoop the
grains into the bucket and start recirculating. Due to the space between
the false bottom, and the spigot, I have to recirculate about 1gallon. I
collect 7 gallons of wort over about 45 minutes by pouring the sparge water
on top of the grain bed trying to keep about 1/2 ince of water over the
grains. I collect the wort into my fermentor because that's the only
container I have that is big enough to hold 7gallons.
Next, I gently stir the wort to make sure it is well mixed, and siphon
it off into the two kettles and begin the boil. I boil for about 70
minutes, and cool.
I just made the jump to all grain a few (3) batches ago, so I was
expecting poor efficiency, and I made up for it with the amount of grain I
used. The recipe's didn't suffer, and the beers have all came out great
(IMHO). However, I'm wondering what I can do such that my efficiency will
be better.
I don't own a mill, so I use the one at the brew shop. I'm pretty
sure that I'm not getting a great crush, but it's pretty good. And I also
don't heat the mash to a mashout temperature.
Other than those two factors, is there anything else I may have
missed?
Thanks in advance,
Tim in Lowell, MA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:27 -0600
From: M257876@sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Subject: alternative decoction
collective homebrew conscience:
jim bentson wrote:
> Second, the highly modified pale
>ale base malt is rich in enzymes compared to the lager malts usually used in
>decoction brewing, thus there are still plenty of enzymes left in the mash
>after pulling the liquid.
this is counter to most descriptions of malt i have read. a true pale ale
malt will have less enzyme content than a true lager malt. the reason for
this is the higher kilning temperature given pale ale malts. the higher
temperature destroys more enzymes as compared with the lower temp. kilning
that lager malts receive.
despite this, there is still plenty of enzymatic power in most pale ale malts,
and i have no problem believing that a decoction that pulled a portion of
the liquid instead of the solid would have enough enzymes to convert itself
after recombination.
keep in mind that the modern pils malt is not typical of the grossly
undermodified lager malts that made decoction mashing necessary to make good
beer back in the old days. i don't think undermodified malt is used
much by homebrewers. the method described by jim where a portion of the liquid
is withdrawn and decocted would surely work with modern lager malts, given the
fact that it succeeds with pale ale malt.
brew hard,
mark bayer
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:10:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Subject: Black-N-Tan / Electric Chiller
A further speculation on the Floating Guiness phenomenon is that perhaps the
dissolved nitrogen in draft Guiness helps suspend the liquid at the top of
the glass?
On the electric chiller question and the pre-chiller answers, I have another
suggestion. I mounted a swamp cooler pump suspended in the lid of a 5-gal
plastic bucket. Two holes drilled in the lid pass the tubing from the pump
to the chiller coil (already in the wort), as well as the exhaust tubing from
the chiller back into the bucket. The pump outlet tubing has a hose fitting
to mate with the chiller coil inlet. I fill the bucket with ice and water,
use regular tap water for most of the chilling, then switch to the
recirculated pumped icewater. The fairly high velocity of the exhaust back
into the bucket keeps the icewater well-mixed for best heat transfer. You
could use a submersible pump, but it can be costly to get a unit with enough
GPM and head. Here in the desert southwest, swamp cooler pumps can be had
for under $10, and they'll push a bunch of water in a hurry. Even in winter,
my tap water is rarely below 60F (up to 85F or more in summer!) so this has
become SOP for the Bluff Canyon Brewery.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:52:42 -0400
From: Steve Alexander <stevea@clv.mcd.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Malt Analysis
rjlee@mmm.com wrote ...
> Schreier DWC Minnesota Malting
> 2row special pils 2row 2row
> pale
> 8/96 8/96 8/96 1997 1994
> ------------------------------------
>moisture 4.0 3.5 3.0 4.1 4.5
>Extract FG dry 81 81 82 81 80
>F/C 1.5 1.5 2.0 1.4 1.8
>color 1.6 3.6 1.5 1.8 1.8
>Alpha Amylase 50 45 48 54 44
>Sol. Protein 5.2 5.1 4.4 5.2 5.8
>Tot. Protein 11.5 11.5 10.0 11.8 13.5
>S/T 44.0 43.5 44.0 44.1 40-46
Diastatic Power 120 --- 105 --- ---
>
>I don't have any for Breiss at this time.
I've added diastatic power for Schreier 2-row and DWC Pils above, tho the
numbers are from '94 and '95 the other figures are very close.
Breiss Breiss Durst
2row 6row pilsen
pale pale
6/96 6/96 1/97
---------------------------
moisture 4.0 4.0 3.0
Extract FG dry >80.5 >78 80
F/C <1.8 <1.8 1.5
color 1.8L 1.8L 2.9EBC
Alpha Amylase 46 44 ---
Sol. Protein ~5.4 ~5.7 4.7
Tot. Protein 12-12.5 12.5-13.5 10.9
S/T 44 44 42.9
Diastatic Power 140 150 ---
can anyone add a recent english pale-ale malt analysis ?
Steve Alexander
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 09:51:58 -1000
From: Richard Stueven <gak@aloha.net>
Subject: Heat transfer & 55-gallon drums
Charles Rich <CharlesR@saros.com>, on Randy Reed's question about
getting better heat transfer from a propane-fired converted Sankey
keg:
> Cut the bottom off of a 55-gallon, or smaller, drum and then cut a wide
> circular opening out of the other end that just admits your keg. This
> can be dropped over your keg and heater to act as a jacket to contain
> the heat you are losing out of the sides of your kettle and which is
> also flowing up from underneath it.
I don't use a converted keg, but my 15-gallon kettle is very nearly
the same diameter as my King Kooker, and they fit nicely into a
30-gallon steel garbage can. I cut a hole low in one side to admit
the propane hose, but otherwise, it's stock. This setup cut my
propane consumption by a factor of five.
have fun
gak (back on hbd after a 2+ year absence)
- --
Richard Stueven gak@beerismylife.com http://www.aloha.net/~gak
The Moloka`i Brewing Company http://molokaibrewing.com
Beer Is My Life! http://beerismylife.com
Breweries On The Web http://www.aloha.net/~gak/beer/brewwww.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 14:57 EST
From: eric fouch <S=eric_fouch%S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021+pefouch%Steelcase-Inc@mcimail.com>
Subject: Hops Analysis Testing Protocol P
Date: Tuesday, 8 April 1997 3:52pm ET
To: STC012.PREQUEST@STC010.SNADS
From: Eric.Fouch@STC001
Subject: Hops Analysis Testing Protocol Pt 1
In-Reply-To: The letter of Monday, 7 April 1997 8:53am ET
Dear HBD-
Not too long ago, during the Home Grown Hops Acid Analysis thread,
somebody posted the analytical techniques and testing protocol for
analyzing home grown hops. Being that I'm trying to get a local analytical
chemistry lab interested in offering such analyses, and because I am
"HBD Searching Impaired" could the people/persons who posted the forementioned
analytical techniques, or anybody else who fancies themselves a Hops Testing
Guru reply to me via e-mail with the appropriate responses (which hopefully
won't include "Piss up a rope").
If I can get the lab interested in providing such services, I'll post
the particulars to the Digest (and gloat if I wangle free testing outa
deal).
Bob- "What'er ya doing eh? Like, we don't know how to drive big trucks"
Doug- "Ya, but dis is a BEER truck, eh?"
Bob- "...Let's go]]"
-Strange Brew
Eric Fouch
Efouch@Steelcase.com
Bent Dick YactoBrewery
|
Assuming Global production ~ 2x10-24 Barrels/year, for those of
you out there (Jim) losing sleep.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:01:57 -0400
From: Steve Alexander <stevea@clv.mcd.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Pressure decoction - further thoughts
Charles Rich wrote ...
>temperatures of Munich malt at 238F (144C) which also undergoes some
238F = 114.4C, 144C=291F.
Sorry for the BW, but it's an important point. At 100C to 120C your
likely to get a substantially different flavor effect than at 144C.
Steve Alexander
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 16:03:57 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi@ccisd.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Dry yeasts: Coopers & Whitbread
I've seen a lot of references to Coopers (and?) Adelaide's sparkling ales
on the HBD. I don't remember if they were recent postings since I've also
been perusing the archives quite a bit lately. Anyway, I'm wondering if the
Cooper's dry yeast is comparable to the liquid australian yeasts put out by
YeastLab, Wyeast, etc.
I generally use liquid yeasts, but the Coopers dry is readily available,
and if it is clean, and as fruity as I hear the liquid version is, I would
like to try it.
I've also heard the dry Whitbread yeast now available is superior to the
stuff that was around a couple of years ago. In the past, you could get a
nice yeast character sometimes, and other times you might get something
really funky.
Does anyone know what flavor contributions these yeast give, and what ferm
temps, aeration requirements, etc. are needed for proper flavor? Thanks.
R.B.Ricchi
"Should anyone thirst, let them come unto me and drink"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 97 17:24:48 est
From: paa3983@dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
Subject: 1997 Brew In (of local interest to NJ and PA brewers)
HBDers,
For those living in South Jersey, Philly and surrounding areas, the Gloucester
County HBers are having their 2nd annual Brew In on Saturday, May 3rd (rain or
shine). All are invited to bring their breweries, grains, hops and yeast and
have at in an orgy of brewing madness!! Last year the record was established
at over 100 gallons of beer brewed in one day. This year we hope to shatter
that record with brewing demos performed by 5 gaollon extracts all the way up to
1 barrel RIMs systems. Water hookups will be provided (bring your garden
hoses). Location will be behind Beercrafters HB store in Turnersville NJ.
Call 609-2-BREW-IT for more info.
Mike Spinelli
Cherry Hill NJ
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:08:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: KennyEddy@aol.com
Subject: Brewing Acids
I'm working on incorporating A.J. deLange's excellent posting on using acids
for brewing water pH adjustment into a new rev of BreWater (it will be 3.0).
He gave pK data for seven different acids, but my guess is that 95% of us
use either lactic or phosphoric, with a few perhaps using HCl. These three
I'm thinking I'll keep, dumping the rest. Sulfuric, acetic, citric, and
tartaric don't strike me as big brewing ingredients. But what do I know.
I'd like to get "all y'all's" opinion (that's plural for "y'all") as to which
acids should be used in BreWater 3.0. It's really not so much a matter of
simplifying the programming, but rather a matter of clutter and excess
baggage.
Also, if you use BreWater and have any comments or suggestions for
changes/additions to the program, now would be a good time to do so. Many of
you have already dropped notes concerning BreWater, and I thank you for the
feedback.
If you've not used BreWater but have an interest in brewing water formulation
and adjustment (vis a' vis "Classic Brewing Cities' Water Profiles") , you
can download a copy of version 2.0 from my web page. It's free; includes
on-line manual/help. Requires Windows 3.X or '95. Not sure if it runs on NT
(anybody?).
Direct e-mail responses would be best. If any trends develop counter to my
speculation about which acids we're using, I'll post a summary. And I hope
to get BW3.0 out quite soon.
Thanks, all y'all.
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:44:21 -0500
From: ejb11@psu.edu (Edward J. Basgall)
Subject: Old dregs (HBD 2392)
***************Begin included message*****************
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:41:56 -0500
From: Denis Barsalo <denisb@cam.org>
Subject: Old Dregs
Lurkers and Posters,
I often collect the sludge at the bottom of my fermenters into
sterilised peanut butter jars and then store them in my beer fridge. If I
use it within a couple of days, I just re-pitch it as is; if it's a couple
of months later, I pitch it to a starter. I've never had any problems.
This time however, I've piched a year old jar of Wyeast 2278 (Czech
Pils) on Wednesday afternoon, and it has only started to show some activity
this morning (Saturday). It's sitting at room temperature, since I want to
give it a good chance of reviving.
Do you think I'm pushing it? Are one year old dregs basically dead?
Is there a sure fire way to know if this is 2278 yeast activity I'm seeing
or somekind of bacterial infection?
I was thinking of letting it ferment out and then tasting the
starter "beer". I figure if there are any off flavors, I can throw it out,
if it tastes OK, I can use it.
Comments?
Denis
*******************end included message**********************
Denis,
I have been doing basically the same thing except I put some dregs in crown
capped bottles
in my refrig. The main problem I've had is that some are rather carbonated
when I open them to re-pitch, especially if the storage time is prolonged.
Froth!
I examine my yeast under a light microscope and do some viability counts
using a trypan blue dye exclusion test and a hemocytometer slide. After
about a year the viability may range down to 30-40% but yeast are pretty
good recyclers and the viable ones will use the nutrients. If you can get
ahold of a microscope you can easily look and see if you have yeast or
bact, but suspect you will have yeast if you have been good about
sanitation.
cheers
Ed Basgall
SCUM
State College Underground Maltsters
State College, PA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 22:05:53 -0400
From: dutch <leake.5@osu.edu>
Subject: Pils vs. lager malt
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 09:34:06 +0000
From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous@tir.com>
Subject: Pils malt vs. Lager malt
<
Greetings. I was thinking of making a nice pilsner in the future.
As I found out, my local supply shop can only obtain the Durst
malts in 1 pound or 55 pound packages. He can get almost anything
else in 10 pounds (I prefer this smaller size for storage). I
looked around and he did have English 2-Row Lager Malt. He says
this comes from Munton & Fison's. Now the question. How does
M&F Lager, compare to Durst Pilsner, D&C Pilsner, etc.? What
important differences exist. TIA.
>
Nathan
See if your supplier can get Wyerman malts. The home brew shop I
work at recently started selling them and brewers seem to like them. We get
their munich and crystal malts in 10lb bags so I assume their other malts
are alsoavailable in 10 lb bags. If you need more info feel free to e-mail
me directly. I can check and see who distributes these malts.
I suggest this because, although I am shure that M&F lager malt is fine for
lagers, IMO it is nice to use ingrediance from the same area the style is from.
Has anyone had experience with Wyerman malts? I'd love to here from
you. I haven't used any yet myself. I brew predominantly ales and although i
could use these malts in ales I have not had much time to brew lately with
my work and school schedules.
home made soda rocks
dutch
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 01:54:38 PDT
From: "MASSIMO FARAGGI" <maxfarag@hotmail.com>
Subject: Rochefort 10 recipe request
Hi HBDers,
I would like to try to clone, or let's say "approximate" Rochefort 10.
I am an extract brewer but could try a partial mash. Any help from
Hbrewers who tried and/or know well this belgian ale? (Don't hide - I
know there are!)
I supply a recipe I worked out as a basis for the discussion:
Target 1101 OG 11.3% ABV - Make 5 US gallons
Malt Extract (I have only light liquid extract) 11 pounds
Caramunch OR Caravienne 1 pound
Chocolate malt (crushed?) 5 oz.
Flaked maize 1 pound
Demerara sugar OR
Home-made light-caramel sugar OR
Cane sugar + caramel 2 pounds
Coriander ?? oz.
Kettle hops: Styrian Goldings (or Fuggles)
Finish hops: Hallertau
to a total of 30 IBU
Wyeast Belgian Ale II (don't remember the number) OR cultured from a
bottle of Rochefort (10,8 or 6, which would be better?)
Sources are M. Jackson Beer Companion and expecially P. Seitz report
of a visit to Rochefort brewery, found at:
http://s-kanslia-3.hut.fi/BeerHunting/Part1.html
The inclusion of chocolate malt (too little?) is mine and is based on
how I remember the colour and flavour of Roch.10 - if my memory is
right, I don't drink it every day! :(
Suggestions are welcome: correction of the recipe, clarification of
my OR's and ??, tips on techniques, fermentation, temperature etc.
Private email or Hbd posts as you prefer. If the beer turns great
I'll post to HBD (the results, not the beer!)
TIA
Massimo Faraggi GENOVA - ITALY
maxfarag@hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:34:16 +0300 (IDT)
From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny@inter.net.il>
Subject: how to use sodium metabisulfite?
The title says it all. What amounts do I use to sterilize a plastic fermentor?
Any special instructions?
Lenny Garfinkel
Leonard Garfinkel, Ph.D.
home: Menuha Venahala 16/13 office: Bio-Technology General
Rehovot Kiryat Weizmann
Israel Rehovot, Israel
tel:972-8-9451505 tel:972-8-938-1256
fax:972-8-940-9041
lenny@inter.net.il
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2394, 04/10/97
*************************************
-------
