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HOMEBREW Digest #2370

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HOMEBREW Digest
 · 8 months ago

HOMEBREW Digest #2370		             Mon 10 March 1997 


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@brew.oeonline.com
Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of
Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
cooling wort with ice (Heiner Lieth)
brewing music.... (Dckdog)
Hop tea ("STARCAT")
RE: J.Bush Hop article ("Frederick L. Pauly")
Newbie - old ale questions (Tim Plummer)
rims tubing, slag problems (Steve Phillips)
Cloudy hot water (Domenick Venezia)
re: dropping,primaries, and other confusing terms (Jeff Irvine)
Brewers to the rescue (Dave Johnson)
My sour mash didn't (SANDY COCKERHAM)
Flaked wheat (Kit Anderson)
World Cup -- last call (DAVE SAPSIS)
AFCHBC competition results (hollen)
AFCHBC correction to results (hollen)
Designing Great Beers (Keith Busby)
Beer Belly Revisionism (Lorne P. Franklin)
AFCHBC correction #2 (hollen)
4th Annual Greater Wichita Homebrew Competition (Michael Jones)
Patron Saints (Chris North)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 01:24:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Heiner Lieth <lieth@telis.org>
Subject: cooling wort with ice

I've been following the numerous thread about cooling wort over the past few
months and read a bunch in the archives. I have, what seems to me to be a
much better way to do this than mess with yet another item that needs
cleaning. (Boy, am I tired of all this clean-up associated with brewing; 25%
of my time brewing is spent this way). I freeze a gallon (or more) of
sterile water in sealed (vodka-sanitized) plastic tubs (ranging in volume
from 8 to 12 oz). When I'm finished boiling at brewing time, I place the hot
kettle in the sink in cold water and cool; I replace this water in the sink
twice as it warms up. Once I've gotten the temperature down a bit (after
about 15 minutes), I dump my clean ice directly into the wort (staight out
of the tubs). Once the temperature is down below 80 I use my clean ladle to
move the ice into the fermenter and then pour (drop) the wort into that. If
the temperature starts to drop below where I want to pitch (usually 68 to
75F), then I scoop out the remaining ice. I'm generally done cooling in
about half an hour (which seems to be much faster than what folks are
reporting with the various chillers).

I have noted no undesireable effects with this wort-cooling method. In
fact, the last few batches that I've brewed this way have been pretty good.
Can any see anything wrong with this approach to wort cooling?

Heiner Lieth.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 08:46:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Dckdog@aol.com
Subject: brewing music....

I wonder if anyone out there has any thoughts on the music they prefer to
listen to while brewing. Our kitchen could be filled with anything from Type
O Negative to King's X to Bach to Korn to SR Vaughn to old Genesis to Orb to
Coltrane to Patti Smith to Replacements to Them Jazzbeards. Eclectic is the
order of the day. Maybe you should listen to different music depending on
what type of brew you are working on......
Brew On..
Dean

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 08:54:42 -0800
From: "STARCAT" <starcat@pathwaynet.com>
Subject: Hop tea

I saw the recent response to a post concerning the bitterness of homegrown
hops. Although I appreciate the hop tea suggestion, it seems that it would
be hard to do unless one could get leaf hops of the type one is growing.
My patch is cluster hops, and I've never seen cluster leaf hops in my area.
I'd like to think that something could be done with Ph strips, but my
limited knowledge of chemistry is a problem. Is this a false assumption on
my part, or would it work? Any of you chemistry wizards (and I know there
are several) out there with any ideas? Thanks!


Beer is better than women because.......a beer doesn't care if it smells
another beer on your breath.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 11:07:04 -0500
From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m@avery.med.virginia.edu>
Subject: RE: J.Bush Hop article

Jim Bush wrote an article recently for BT on how to get familliar
with different types of hops. A fine article which reminded me
that I have been doing something similar. I brew 10 gal. all
grain batches and to prepare my yeast I make a 0.75 to 1 gal.
starter with dry malt extract and a little hops. On brew day I
can't stand the thought of dumping the beer so I pull it off into
a jug and then after the brew session I use a little of the new
brew to condition the yeast starter beer and bottle it. The beers
have been quite nice and by changing the hops I use each time I
can see what they are like.
Well that's it,
Rick Pauly
Charlottesville, VA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 11:54:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim Plummer <plummer@brick.purchase.edu>
Subject: Newbie - old ale questions

I am preparing my fourth batch, my first experiment with higher gravity
worts, a (hopefully) tasty old ale. Here are a couple questions for
HBDers with a better clue than I.

1) I am preparing a 3 gallon batch, because I have a 3 gallon carboy as a
secondary (fits better in my only fridge in anticipation of brewing
lagers later on). My primary is my trusty 6.5 gallon plastic bucket, which,
until now I've used only for single-stage fermentation of 5 gallon batches.
Question: Will the extra air-space in my primary present an oxidation
problem, or will the CO2 production protect the wort sufficiently until I
rack it to the secondary?
1a) If oxidation is a problem, will making a starter help minimize the
problem, or will the damage already be done?

2) My understanding is that old ale needs a couple months of aging to
reach its maximum potential tastiness quotient. How much of this aging
should take place in the secondary, and how much should happen in the
bottle? Right now, my plan is to let fermentation complete and then let
it bottle-condition. Is this correct?

Thanks to those in this forum who take the time to answer newbie
questions. Homebrewing has quickly become my favorite pastime, thanks in
part to this forum.

Tim Plummer (Port Chester, NY)



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 12:52:05 -0600
From: Steve Phillips <swp@datasync.com>
Subject: rims tubing, slag problems

Deep South Greetings

A tidbit of usefull info for you rims users and a question for the
practical metalworkers:

I've noticed a lot of folks looking for tubing suitable for rims
style setups. I bought 10' of Norprene food grade tubing from
U.S. plastics (800 537-9724, no affiliation, etc) for $2.39 / ft.
and have been ecstatic with it. Although the catalog picture looks
like stiff black stuff, (page 148 in the last two catalogs) it is
in fact cream colored and very flexible. Good to 275 degrees F.
I use it with the polypropylene quick connects (p. 70) up to boiling
temperatures with good results. No odors or tastes. This setup
seems more versatile and easier to use than the hard-plumbed rigs
I've seen on a lot of designs. Ten feet was adequate for my Rick
Calley heat-exchanged brewery. I'd be glad to delve deeper into
details on e-mail request.

Now the question. When my welder cut the tops out of the sanke kegs
he used a plasma torch which blew slag all over one side of the hot
water vessel. Stuck to the walls and wants to rust between brewing
sessions. Hand sanding is great exercise but futile for removing slag.
I have a side grinder with disk or wire cup brush, but I'm concerned
about the steel brush or making the affair worse by power sanding the
stainless. Anyone have any (practical) ideas as to how to remove the
offending slagletts?

TIA

Bubba Phillips (swp@datasync.com)
Possum Trot Brewery - Celebrating the Grand Opening of a pack of smokes
Long Beach, Mississippi

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 11:29:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia@zgi.com>
Subject: Cloudy hot water


In #2369 Louis Gordon <lgordon@pclink.com> says:

>It occurred to me today that one of my assumptions is probably not
>correct. When I get hot water from the tap, it is somewhat cloudy. I
>have always assumed that hot water leaches material from either the hot
>water tank or the pipes ( I have copper).

Hot water is cloudy because of tiny bubbles of air that precipitate out
of solution. Contrary to the situation with solids the solubility of a
gas is inversely related to the water temperature, i.e., hotter water will
dissolve less gas than colder water. Hot water heaters are generally
under a little bit of pressure and when the water comes out of the tap the
air that was held in solution by this little bit of pressure comes out of
solution (precipitates) as little bubbles.

Domenick Venezia
Computer Resources
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia@zgi.com



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 21:17:15 +0100
From: Jeff Irvine <irv@wireworks.se>
Subject: re: dropping,primaries, and other confusing terms

Graham Stone raised some interesting questions regarding the use of
terminology (in particular, primary and secondary fermentations, and
dropping).
I even noticed C.D. Pritchard wondering if you had dropped or racked
from the primary, that it should be then called the secondary.
I myself have found the "unconventional" use of these terms confusing.
I likewise find the somewhat equivalent terms of "aerobic" and
"anaerobic" missleading, as the medium is actually aerobic (or
containing dissolved oxygen) for about 0.5% of the traditional
"aeroboic" fermentation time. In addition, the yeast are not respiring,
and in fact with the proper pitching rate, COULD be entirely independent
of O2 during the entire process.
I'm going to suggest some conventions of terminology (and even
introduce some new ones...great--just what we need--more terms), which I
think are kind of logical and not missleading at all.

Simple Sugar Fermentation (or metabolism): This is what I call the
phase that has been called either primary, or aerobic. What I mean by
this, is as long as the yeasts metabolism is based on the availability
of simple sugars (primarily maltose), you are in this stage, no matter
how many times you've racked or dropped, and regardless of the dissolved
oxygen content.

Complex Sugar Fermentation (or metabolism): When simple sugars are
converted , and the yeast are nibbling at that bit of dextrins they can
get at, you are at this stage metabolically, whether it's in a secondary
or lagering, and I think it bloody well should be anaerobic at this
stage.

Racking: I think we all know what this means, but I would restrict it
to doing it carefully as opposed to...

Dropping: I think this term is reserved for a type of racking during
simple sugar fermentation, where the whole point of doing it is to
reintroduce oxygen into the wort. I would like to stress that the
oxygen introduced thus is probably intended more to affect the PRODUCTS
of yeast metabolism (and oxidation of things already present in the
wort) than it actually has to do with yeast reproduction.

This all might seem a bit pedantic, but to give an example of the
missconceptions created...If you are carefully racking during the
primary, I would NOT call that dropping, and as long as the head is
still up there, you are in simple sugar fermentation (which has profound
implications on what the beer will tolerate), no matter how many times
you have racked.

Does this make any sense at all? I really hate to be a "dweeb" about
this, but I think the best thing about having many people communicate on
a subject, is the sharing of varying experiences. People are doing
things differently enough now, that I have a hard time following their
descriptions, when they use terminology in an unfamiliar manner.

Hope this was anything other than adding to the confusion. If you think
this was some pretty dopey suggestions, I'll understand completely!
Dr. Pivo

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 19:28:21 -0500
From: Dave Johnson <djohnso@OPIE.BGSU.EDU>
Subject: Brewers to the rescue

Greetings HBDers,

I'm new here, a month or so. Great forum! Just thought I'd pass along
a news bit
that should make us all feel pretty good. A BIG kudos to the Bavarian
Brewing Co.,
Maumee, OH (Toledo area). The American readers know the Ohio River
valley
has been hit pretty hard with floods lately. Numerous water treatment
facilities have
been rendered inoperable and many of their customers have no way to boil
water.
The aforementioned brewpub has donated their bottling operation this
weekend
to bottling water for victims in affected areas. The brewery, of
course, donated the
facilities and supervision of volunteers, the city of Toledo donated the
water, Owens-
Brocly (sp?) donated the bottles, and Propack donated packing
materials. I don't know
whom to credit for shipping. I think their capacity is 10,000
bottles/hr. so you figure
a weekend's worth. If the need is still there next weekend, the process
will be
repeated. FWIW, they're shipping in green bottles so people don't think
its really beer (could be Bud...what's the diff?). Please don't include
this in the
skunking thread ;-). FYI, I'm in no way affiliated with any of the
contributing parties.
I think I brew better beer ;-).

While I'm here I'll throw in my 2 cents worth. Until the AHA/AOB board
is member
elected, this is my last year. Gotta give them credit on how they
handled the recipie
ownership thing, however.

And again while I'm here, does anyone have suggestions on evaluating the
potency of
orange peels for my wit. They're always tasty, sipping on one now, but
I'd like
consistency (AR?).

BTW, had there been more time, they were going to label the bottles
"Holy Toledo
Water".

Fermentaciously yours,
- --
Dave Johnson
Dept. of Biol. Scie.
BGSU
Bowling Green, Oh 43402
djohnso@opie.bgsu.edu
http://www.bgsu.edu/departments/biology/algae/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Mar 1997 01:52:06 +0000 (GMT)
From: SANDY COCKERHAM <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L@Lilly.com>
Subject: My sour mash didn't

Hi fellow brewers,
Have been reading the Sour Mash discussions with much interest. I recently
brewed a sour mash beer, but it sure didn't turn out very sour! I did boil
the wort for 3 hours, but don't think that pH would be changed solely by
that. If I am wrong, lets not have a two week thread on it, OK? :-)
Here's how I soured my wort. I used part of the malt extract for the beer
(2.5 lb of M & F Wheat DME and put in in my old plastic fermenter) I then
inoculated this with two capsules of lactobacillus acidophilus (label said
that each capsule contained no fewer than 20 million viable lactobacilli).
I let the mash sour for two days then transfered to the kettle. Quite a
thick layer of dark sludge (I assume a big crop of lacto) was left on the
bottom of my plastic fermenter,(hence forever known as the Sour Mash Bucket.)
Yet, this beer is not sour. Is L. Acidophilus an improper strain to use for
souring? My pal, Ted, brewing belgian styles in NYC says he gets good results
from either tossing in grain or unsanitized oak chips. So, I guess this is
how I will proceed next time. Has anyone successfully soured a beer with
acidophilus?
Thanks,
Sandy C.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Mar 1997 10:26:00 -0500
From: Kit Anderson <kit@maine.com>
Subject: Flaked wheat

Chris Pertschi asked;


>In HBD #2339 and #2342 Kit Anderson & Jim Busch comment on my Belgian Wit
>Recipe-
>
>5# Belgium 2-Row
>4# Malted Wheat
> .5# Flaked Oats
>
>KA < I'm sure this is a good beer but it will be truer to
> < style substituting flaked wheat for the malted wheat.
>
>JB < Why stop there? Use raw wheat for real authenticity.
>
>Perhaps someone can explain the proper usage of raw, flaked, malted, Cream
>of, or torrefied wheat grains. I chose malted wheat because the main grain in
>my bill is Belgian Pale 2-row with a low diastatic power (60). Does flaked
>wheat have enough enzymes for conversion? Do European brewers generally
>prefer flaked or raw wheat?

Flaked wheat is unmalted. It has no enzynes for conversion. That is OK as
you want all those proteins clouding up a wit. I believe flaked wheat is
more convenient but raw wheat is more traditional for lambics and wits.
Torrified wheat is puffed unmalted grain. It adds a breakfast cereal
toastiness.
All the above go into the mash.

The following is from BrewTek's catalog.

The flaked brewers adjuncts below are pre-gelatinized, meaning that they
can be used directly in the mash without cooking. The use of various
adjuncts can aid the brewer in fine tuning their recipes and to better
emulate various beer styles.


G-90 - Flaked Corn (Pre-gelatinized) The most common adjunct in American
Lagers. The use of 5 to 35% will reduceproteins and other compounds in
beers, lightening both the color and body.



G-92 - Flaked Oats (Pre-gelatinized) Commonly used in Oatmeal Stouts and
other full flavored, dark ales. Oatmeal breaksdown in the mash to lend a
fullness of palate and smooth, grainy character.


G-94 - Flaked Barley (Pre-gelatinized) Used at the rate of 2 to 12% to add
proteins which promote foam stability (headretention), and mouth feel.
Commonly used in Dry-Stouts, it can compliment any beer, but may cause
haziness in amounts over 3% due to the increased protein content.


G-96 - Flaked Rye (Pre-gelatinized) Produces a character similar to wheat.
Lending a pleasant, fullness of character tobeers and ales, use 5 to 25% in
your beers for experimentation.


G-98 - Torrefied Wheat (Lightly toasted & Puffed) Frequently used in
British breweries, torrefied wheat aids in head retention and adds a light,
creamy, smooth charactar as well as a mildly toasted wheat flavor to ales
and lagers.Use 5 to 15% in your beers for a new flavor experience.

Malted grains are sprouted so that they contain proteolytic and diastatic
enzymes.
- ---

Kit Anderson
Bath, Maine
<kit@maine.com>
The Maine Beer Page http://www.maine.com/brew

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 09:00:51 -0800
From: DAVE_SAPSIS@fire.ca.gov (DAVE SAPSIS)
Subject: World Cup -- last call

Man, even I am getting tired of all these endless springtime homebrew
competition announcements, but since I'm the Head Cheese, here goes:

Last Call for entries and judge inquiries for the World Cup of Beer
Homebrew Competition, March 29, Oakland California. This is a BJCP
registered event, with no ties whatsoever to the AHA (take that to
your BOD, Charlie). Entries and judge registration due March 15.
Info available here or at:

http:www.hooked.net/users/regent/worlcup.htm

Valley locals can arrange to drop their beers off at my house in
Sacramento if they wish.

cheers,

--dave sapsis dave_sapsis@fire.ca.gov

phone: 916.455.3375

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 97 10:08:53 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: AFCHBC competition results


Here are the results of the America's Finest City Homebrew Competition.
QUAFF would like to thank all the brewers, stewards and judges who
participated to make this a successful event.

The First, Second and Third place awardees in each category will be
receiving medals and the First Place Best of Show entry will in
addition, receive a engraved beer glass.

Just to re-iterate, we require minimum levels of scores for awards -
35 for First, 30 for Second and 25 for Third. In this way, the only
beer in a category will not be awarded a medal unless it really is an
award winning beer.

Also, we normally attempt to never have ties in any categories. However,
this year, several of our judge panels left before a few ties were
resolved. For this reason, you will see a few multiple awards for the
same place.


Barley Wine 01
First Rich Link - Quaff
Second Christian Smerz - Foam Rangers
Third Grant Coverdale

Belgian and French Ale 02
First Dan Hageweische, Mike Riddle - Marin Soc. of Homebrewers
Second Erol Kilki - Quaff
Third Jeff Sturman - WY Brew

Belgian-Style Lambic 03
Second Christian Smerz - Foam Rangers

Mild and Brown Ale 04
First Uwe Boer, Paul Gunn - Brewmeister's Anonymous
Second Eric Evonsion
Third Rudy Bauer

English Style Pale Ale 05
First James Berdan - Gold Country Brewer's Assoc.
Second Greg DiStefano
Third Don Bennett - Barley Literate

American Style Ale 06
First Greg DiStefano
Second Roger Whyman - Unfermentables
Third Ron Rivers - Barley Literate

English Bitter 07
First Paul Racko - Long Beach Homebrewers
Second Dan Goldberg
Third Ron Thomas

Scottish Ale 08
Second Michael Fennessy
Third Brian King

Porter 9
First Tod Fitzsimmons - Quaff
Second David Houseman - Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists

Third Bill Krouss - Strand Brewers Club

English and Scottish Strong Ale 10
First Harold Gulbranson
Second Jeff Herman
Third Dan Sherman - Quaff

Stout 11
First and
BOS 3rd Luis DiStefano
Second Uwe Boer, Paul Gunn - Brewmeister's Anonymous
Third James Weiner

Bock 12
First Dan Sherman - Quaff
Second Don Bennett - Barley Literate
Second David Houseman - Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists

German Dark Lager 13
First Stephen MacMillan - South Nevada Ale Fermenter's Union
Second Patrick Mckee - Redwood Coast Homebrewer's Assoc.
Third Edward Little - Foam on the Brain

German Light Lager 14
Second Frank Leers - Quaff
Third Elizabeth Smith - Inland Empire Brewers

Classic Pilsner 15
First Mark Walker
Second Colleen and Tom Cannon - BURP
Third Greg & Liz Lorton - Quaff
Third Bob Thompson - Temecula Valley Homebrewer's Assoc.

American Lager 16
First Todd Anderson - Quaff
Second Brian Tapken
Third Jerry Cox

Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest 17
First
BOS 2nd Greg & Liz Lorton - Quaff
Second John Clements
Third David Houseman - Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists

German-Style Ale
First and
BOS 1st Brian Tapken
Second Mike Muller - Temecula Valley Homebrewer's Assoc.
Third John Clements

German-Style Wheat Beer 19
First Erol Kilki - Quaff
Second David Houseman - Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists
Third Bryan Littin, Doug Bedford

Smoked Beer 20
Second Harold Gulbransen
Third Dan Hageweische - Marin Society of Homebrewer's

Herb and Spice Beer 21
First Martin Fredrickson

Specialty Beer 23
First Brian Tapken
Second Todd Anderson
Third Greg DiStefano

California Common Beer 24
First James Mackay - Barley Literates
Second Rick Link - Quaff
Third Patrick McKee - Redwood Coast Homebrewer's Assoc.

Traditional Mead and Braggot 25
First Tom Nickel - Quaff
Third Greg DiStefano

Fruit and Vegetable Mead 26
First Jerry Cox
Second Martin Fredrickson, Tom Nickel
Third Frank Leers - Quaff

Cider 28
First Frank Leers


- -----
Dion Hollenbeck, Organizer
America's Finest City Homebrew Competition March 8, 1997
Quality Ale and Fermentation Fraternity, Sponsor
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen/AFCHBC.html

- ---
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 97 11:57:46 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: AFCHBC correction to results


Please excuse a bleary minded mistake on category 22 in the previous
posting. Here are the real results.

Herb and Spice Beer 21
First David Houseman - Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists
Second Martin Frederickson
Second Todd Fitzsimmons - Quaff


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Mar 1997 15:09:16 -0600
From: Keith Busby <kbusby@ou.edu>
Subject: Designing Great Beers

I have just received my copy of Ray Daniels' _Designing Great Beers_. It is
a nicely produced book which seems to achieve the right balance between
theory, practice, and general informativeness. However, I sought in vain for
more than passing mention of beers or styles from the world's most exciting
beer country--Belgium. How can this be explained? Although there is
considerable variation within styles such as Trippel, Oud Bruin, etc.,
variation is exactly what _Designing Great Beers_ is supposed to be about. I
can find nothing in the Preface about why the only beer styles covered are
basically English/American/German. To be sure, the inclusion of Belgian
styles would have lengthened the book considerably, but this ought not to be
a consideration. Perhaps Mr Daniels is planning a second volume?

Keith Busby

Keith Busby
George Lynn Cross Research Professor
Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies
University of Oklahoma
780 Van Vleet Oval, Room 202
Norman, OK 73019
Tel.: (405) 325-5088
Fax: (405) 325-0103


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 17:09:43 -0500 (EST)
From: gu151@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Lorne P. Franklin)
Subject: Beer Belly Revisionism

Howdy,

In HBD 2369 Art forwarded info from a dietary study of beer which
found that cosuming beer does not make people fat; overeating causes
obesity. Well, I certainly agree that beer contains many healthful
elements and that moderate consumption of beer certainly adds to one's
enjoyment of life. But, let's not delude ourselves. Beer contains a
large number of calories per 12 oz., fat or no. Consume too many calories
relative to one's activity level and a person will become fat. But an
uglier reality also comes to my mind. Chronic alcoholics frequently
appear fat, or bloated in the body, while their limbs are scrawny and
emaciated. This is a physical sign of liver damage. When the organ
is toxed with alcohol, tissue is destroyed and forms "scar." Scar tissue
becomes compounded with recurring overindulgence and a person's body
appears "fat," though it may actually be malnourished. Just a reality
check: drinking beer requires balance, just like all of our other
appetites and actions. I would be surprised if the article sited in
HDB 2369 wasn't underwitten by alcohol- or beer-based interest in Britain.

- --
L o r n e F r a n k l i n

gu151@cleveland.freenet.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 97 16:45:13 PST
From: hollen@vigra.com
Subject: AFCHBC correction #2


Really sorry about this, but I have yet another correction to the
AFCHBC competition results. Second and Third places were switched.
The corrected category is:


Fruit and Vegetable Mead 26
First Jerry Cox
Second Frank Leers - Quaff
Third Martin Fredrickson, Tom Nickel

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 18:49:56 -0600 (CST)
From: mjones@southwind.net (Michael Jones)
Subject: 4th Annual Greater Wichita Homebrew Competition

The Derby Brew Club is proud to announce the upcoming AHA/BJCP sanctioned
4th annual Greater Wichita Homebrew Competition April 12, 1997 in Wichita
Kansas. Entries are due no later than March 26. Last year's contest drew
158 entries from Kansas and four surrounding states, with entries in nearly
all of the AHA beer, mead and cider categories. The Wichita contest has
shown to be an excellent proving ground for the AHA nationals, as several of
the beers entered advanced to the second round and two went on to win gold
medals in New Orleans last year. To receive a packet with complete
information including entry and registration forms by (snail) mail contact
mjones@southwind.net (Mike Jones) or call contest director Chuck Stiner at
(316)488-2659.

The entry packet also includes judges registration forms. We are making
considerable effort to secure the most qualified judges. If you are in the
BJCP, or experienced and would like to judge, please complete the forms and
return them to us by April 5th. Judging experience points will be submitted
to the BJCP for judges who are in the program or planning to take the exam.
Experience points count towards judge certification requirements.

Consider the challenges of competition, experience the fun of brewing, and
gain insight into the world of beers at the 4th Annual Greater Wichta
Homebrew Competition.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 20:42:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Chris North <chrisn@infohwy.com>
Subject: Patron Saints

As been mentioned in several posts, Saint Arnold is *a* patron saint of
brewing. It would appear that there are several. And as has also been
mentioned, Saint Arnold is *the* microbrewry located in Houston. They make
a very fine amber. Almost as good as my own ;^).

For those who are fortunate enough to be in close proximity to Houston, I
highly recommend a tour. The one I took was hosted by the
owner/brewmeister Brock Wagner (a former homebrewer. Without thinking I
asked him if he still brewed!). He told a very entertaining tale of the
relationship between brewing and religion, resulting from the research he
did in comming up with the name of his brewry. A very enjoyable tasting
session after the tour as well.

(Standard Disclaimer)
I have no connection with the Saint Arnold brewry other than that of a very
satisfied customer.

They also have a web site at www.saintarnold.com

chris north



------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2370, 03/10/97
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